I'm with Isell on this one. You might change the oil yourself first and especially put in fresh gasoline if the tank is low or try to siphon out some of the old gas and put in fresh. That's what I'd do.
The battery might be deteriorated enough to merit a replacement before starting. But odds are good you'd be up and running to drive home and then start changing oil and fresh gas and battery.
You don't say where you live; if in an area where the discharged battery was in below freezing weather, the case or plates might have been damaged by freezing.
I have an '03 and have the same problems, though the window creaking hasn't bothered me enough to tell my dealer. The whistling noise however, has been a constant problem and my dealer has spent many hours investigating the issue. Ultimately they are saying the sound is a "tire harmonic" that occurs as a result of the tire tread creating a sound, while in motion, and filling the tire well. They suggested the sound will likely go away with new tires. I am not sure I buy the explanation, but they assure me my engine is in order. And they didn't offer to get me new tires. Anyone else have this problem?
I don't think that's my problem since I can get the same noise when I have the car parked and rev the engine about 2K while in neutral. It's not an extremely loud whining/whistling noise but I definitely hear it when accelerating or maintaining a constant speed (the latter much more when in 5th around 60mph). Other than that the engine and tranny seem to run smooth as silk.
What do I do about my new 2005 Honda Accord? I believe there is a paint problem. On Jan 15 I had a small chip of paint come off the hood. No ding or anything. Just a chip of paint all the way down to the metal. It has now rusted. Today I came home from a 300 mile trip. Now there is a scraped place again down to the metal on the hood. What do I do? Honda said they would paint the hood when the 5000 oil change comes. I am almost there now. I leaned my soft side suitcase on the rubber around the truck. There are two black scrapes on the bumper. Dont know if I did it or if some one did it while it was parked at the airport. How can Honda sell a car that comes with so many promises and then have the paint fall off so easily? While on my trip at another Honda dealer, I was told that the white does not have clear coat only two layers of paint. He said that the bumper was plastic and it would not rust. Just to get some touch up paint. Help. What do I do? I want to just give them their piece of junk car back and walk away. I will NEVER buy another Honda. Never had a car in my entire life that sheds paint like this one. Water gets in around the doorseals. Has a high pitched whine some where in front. There is a bumping sound when going high speeds in the wind. ????
Wow......I didn't think anyone else was going through this. You see I bought my 2003 Honda Accord last year it only had been driven for 12miles. Love at first sight! I figured buying a Honda would be my best choice due to endurance. What a disappointment!I have already gotten front and rear brakes, rotors replaced! Not to mention first thing first, car doesn't start on first try and if it weren't for my radio being somewhat loud with my cd of 50 Cent, I would go crazy with all that rattling. Every turn I make I hear the click click and oh let's not even go there when about to make a U-turn.....I feel the car is going to fall apart! NOW to top it all off, I had to take my car in today because the engine light came on? Of course there was something wrong, but the service dept told me a rat had been chewing at my wires not only that but I had a couple of missing wires? When I asked about those cable wires he said well maybe the rat took it to their nest? He had jokes! After that I simply asked him for my key and I would take my car somewhere else, he told me that the mechanic working on my car had left for the day and locked up my car key! Next he gave me a broke down rental! You know when I first had taken my car in he told me Honda doesn't provide rentals anymore? In all honesty this is all been very stressful simply because no matter what I love my car. Yet i really wanted to be civil since I did have my child with me. It's just that 30,000 mileage and just had full service on it, plus seeing the so called chewed wire....how can you tell it was chewed?
but it wasn't the one that ate the wires in your car.
Yes, rodents can eat wires in a car's engine compartment. I saw a customer with a $1800 bill once due to this. And if the wire was not chewed on what happened? Did someone cut the wires? Be more careful about where you park your car. You can't blame Honda for a rodent.
Honda does not provide rentals. It's up to each individual dealer to provide loaners or not.
"Ever turn I make I hear the click click" ... maybe it's your turn signal.
If a brake job, a rodent, and a "broke down" rental make you think this car is going to fall apart then you should trade it. Go find something that you "think" will be better. Good luck.
I have a small problem with my 03 Accord that I hope someone can help me. The small door over the center storage compartment has a metal "PUSH" label on it. Well, one day it fell off. I put it back on and then pushed the label to open the door. The label then fell off while in the up position and fell behind the storage compartment. I can't figure out how to get behind this compartment so I can superglue the label back on. I can't get at it from behind. Does the storage compartment come out from the front? Help!
I own a '04 EX Accord auto that has about a 1/4 inch lag between when I step on the accelerator and when the engine revs. Anyone else experience this problem? If so, how was it resolved? Another issue: The driver's seat squeaks when in a turn. Any solutions? Thanks for any input.
I just purchased a 2003 Accord that has been in storage for 2 years. It was a once in a lifetime opportunity. I purchased it for less than $16,000.00. At the present time, it is at my mechanics shop where it is being checked over for safety issues. I want to be VERY sure that the brakes are operating properly after sitting so long without use. My mechanic suggested that the brake system be flushed, the old fuel drained from the fuel tank, the engine oil and filter changed, and the brake assembly be inspected on all four wheels. We are also going to replace the battery in the vehicle. After he completes this service, he will start the engine, and let it run at idle for a period of time on his lot, to see if issues shows up! He is also going to look over the cooling system, especially the condition of the hoses and the coolant. I told him that if he found anything that didn't look right to simply replace the item. The car at the present time is very dirty on the outside. Once it checks out mechanically, he will give it a quick wash, and take it out for a test drive. After reading the many postings on the Honda boards, I find that there is a difference of opinion in terms of regular maintenance on Honda vehicles. Some people go by the Honda Manual, while others service their vehicle more often. Since I know nothing about cars, what is the reason for this difference of opinion? I plan on going to the B&N book store and getting a book on basic vehicle maintenance. Once I get my feet wet on this subject, I will go to Sears and purchase some basic tools. Maybe, I can learn how to change my own oil and filter. ---------- Best regards. -------Dwayne
Your local Honda dealer may give a free class on car maintenance every so often. Call them and find out.
In the old days, many people recommended oil changes every 3000 miles, and we got that figure burned into our brains. If we don't get our oil changed that often, we don't feel right.
These days, car makers recommend 5K or even 10K oil change intervals, and some people go by those guidelines.
Very few of us do the more important service more often than the car maker recommends. I bet almost no one has a 30K service done every 15K miles.
Sure, read up on car maintenance. Not so much to save $20 having the oil changed. When you have a repair bill of $500 or $1000, it is nice to be able to understand what you are paying for.
Go to your local public library or to a larger city's library and check the books available for checkout in their automobile maintenance titles. You can check the titles they hold on their websites for most libaries here. That's easier than going to one that doesn't have much choice; go to one that has many current titles.
Go to you local bookstore (Borders, e.g.). They have comfortable chairs plopped around the store. Sit and read through the books they offer. You'll learn lots. You'll also learn some books are at your level and some aren't written the way you'd like. Then pick one you want to buy.
Go to your local Autozone and other auto parts stores. They too have maintenance books. You can also pick up drain pans and straps for removing oil filters. They also can instruct you on wrench size for your drain plug.
Do I recall some saying certain Honda engines have oil filters that are difficult to reach? And do the drain plugs need to be replaced each? time oil is drained to keep a good seal on the washer part?
And always check that the oil filter seal ring came off with the filter and didn't stick to the car engine side. (I learned the hard way--it leaks with two seals on there.)
Check your tire pressure once a week. This is very important for safety. To make it easy to add a couple pounds of air to your tires, get a small air pump that plugs into your car's power outlet. They cost about $20.
Practice changing a tire. This can come in very handy.
In addition checking each week sometimes will catch that one tire has dropped a pound or two and you'll find on inspection there's a nail sticking in a tire. I would jack up the car and rotate the wheel sponging soapy water on it to find the air bubbles and a nail or sometimes just roll the car and cover each part of the wheel and watch for bubbles. When the tire is parked with the nail next to the flexed part of the tire on the ground the leak will usually be faster. So when you park just the right spot, you may find a flat tire after while.
Also get in the habit of looking at your tires when you approach your car. Sometimes you'll see a nail looking back at you in the visible tread area. Just found one last week. It hadn't penetrated but driving on it more would have driven it on through the steel belts.
If it saves one flat tire when you come out of the restaurant or theater or shopping mall, it's worth the time doing the above.
I don't do many things in life the way you are supposed to, but I do glance at my tires pretty often.
You know, if you don't add oil and your engine blows up, it's not much of a problem. Just pull over, get out and walk, and have one of your older female admirers buy you a new car. No harm done.
But if you ignore the tires and one fails when you are driving, that could be unfortunate. Remember the stories on the news about Ford Explorers and their Firestone tires?
Before buying this car you basically asked the same questions. Some of us who are pretty car savvy gave you suggestions which you didn't follow. You should/could have simply jump started the car and driven it to your shop.
It hasn't sat for twenty years, just two years which isn't a big deal at all.
Your brakes and hoses will be fine and the gas in the tank will be fine too especially when you mix it with fresh gas.
Hopefully, your mechanic won't find too many things to replace that are just fine as they are.
There seems to be many companies and dealers that sell Honda parts online, but I am looking for one that sells more than just the standard stuff. For example, I need a replacement part for my 97 accord that is a module consisting of a plastic framed piece with the integrated door handle and power lock switch. I tried ordering it from my local Honda dealer, but they don't have it in stock and can't tell me when it will arrive. Plus, they won't give me the actualy Honda part # so I can buy it somewhere else. As my accord ages, I am buying more and more replacement components since I do most of the workd myself and would like to find an online source, rather than running to the dealer each time and playing these games. Thanks
My 97 accord with 140K miles has been experiencing noise that sounds like a louder version of snow tire rumble with a wobble harmonic (even though I have a brand new set of very quiet Goodyear Comfortrak tires). The Honda dealer found a worn wheel bearing and wanted almost $350 for the repair. I brought my car to a local Sears to see if they would do it for less. Indeed, they wanted to charge me $220 for the same job. Although the Sears mechanic told me he may have to replace the ball joint also because it has "too much play" and is slightly rusted. He claims the ball joint needs to be removed for him to replace the wheel bearing. This sounds a bit fishy to me, especially after looking at my service manual. I don't see why the mechanic would need to remove the ball joint to replace the wheel bearing. Perhaps someone can confirm this for me. I know Sears is not known for their honesty or trustworthiness, but since I have a decent knowledge of cars and I want a good price on this repair, I decided to give them a shot. Thanks
I just put a rather new low mile engine/ transmission in my 95 Accord EX after 200K miles anf it runs so perfectly, so beautifully.
Following is my list of happiness for today:
1- My ultimate Heaven: Brand new Accord Hybrid 2005 at 2100 miles.
2- My second Heaven: Accord V6 EX Coupe 2003 at 25K miles.
3- My third Heaven: Accord V6 EX Sedan 2002 at 27K miles.
4- My lovely baby/ fourth Heaven on earth: Accord I4 EX 1995 (with 1996 engine/ transmission at less than 20K miles, 4 new brakes, 4 new tires, new AC freon, just washed and "pampered" it this morning).
I love this Accord I4 95 baby the most. He is so lovely, so dependent and so loyal to me during the last 10 years and 3 months. This baby has never broken down whatsoever in the last 10 years plus.
Bravo Honda ! Honda Civic, Insight, Pilot. S2000, NSX, Element, Odessey, Accord, Accord hybrid...win again and again. I love my Honda fleet. Have a good weekend folks. All my Honda Accord keep purring and revving so proudly every single day, rain or shine.
I picked up my Graphite Pearl EX V6 with navi on Thursday. The car is beautiful and runs great. I noticed yesterday that, on the passenger side front dash airbag cover, you can see the outline of where the seams are for the airbag. Has anyone noticed this? I'll take notice next time I'm at the dealership or see an Accord in a parking lot. You can notice it better looking over from the driver's seat or looking in from the outside on the passenger side. Thanks for any feedback you can provide.
It's a good sign that this is the only thing that has caught my eye or ear at this point. This is my first Honda and the fit, finish and quality are better than I expected. This car is replacing my Volvo S60 T4 and I am not at all disappointed.
I can see the seams from the airbag in my 04 EX-L if the light hits it right. I didn't really notice this in my 03 EX-L Coupe or my previous 04 EX-L sedan. Although both previous Accords had the ebony interior whereas my current 04 has the lighter gray interior.
I buy parts for my 89 Honda at: honda-auto-parts-wholesale.com. They have better price. Some components are $100 cheaper compared with other sites I know.
Thanks for the post. Some times I wonder if I'm just looking for something that's not right. If that's the way it is, fine. But if I've got a real flaw in the finish I would want to get it fixed. I appreciate the reply.
Had a nice evening here in Kentucky. Opened the moon roof, rolled the windows down, turned on the XM and just took a little ride. It was nice. :shades:
This site has VERY good pictures for the parts. When I checked the price on cat converter and header pipe for my 89LXi, I am a bit shock. They are so expensive compared with other site. I guess it's pay to shop around.
I have a 96 EX V6 with approx 125,000 miles (I bought it 6 months ago, but I know it had its 100,000 mile maintenance done), and up until a few weeks ago have had had no problems at all. However, recently the tachometer has begun behaving erratically.
Basically, the issue is that the tachometer begins to gyrate wildly. It starts off as just a minor twitch, but can be as bad as going from pegged on 0 to 4000rpm and back again in less than a second. Even when pegged on 0, the car still runs, and I can accelerate just fine. However, sometimes when it transitions to the 0 mark, I can feel a momentary loss of acceleration. The tachometer never goes higher than it should be at for any given speed. I have not noticed any correlation between external conditions (heat, rain, etc) and the problem occurring. However, it has become more frequent in the past couple of weeks, and now occurs nearly every time I drive. Additionally, it sometimes takes up to 30 mile of driving before it starts, but sometimes it starts immediately, and once it begins, it won't stop until the car is left to rest for the night.
I am not very knowledgeable about cars, but I want to know what the problem might be so that I don't get ripped off by a mechanic, or if it is something simple, I could try to fix it myself. Thanks for any help you can provide.
After fully reclining the passenger seat last night we can't raise the seatback to the normal upright position. When we use the switch to upright it you can hear the motor make a noise and move the seat a fraction of an inch, and then it runs out of power as if the seat hit an obstruction. Is there a way to reset this seat.. naturally it is now 120 miles out of warranty. thanks for any help before I go to the dealer tommorrow or the day after.
There are wires that lead to and from the distributor. You may have a bad connection somewhere inside there. I had that same problem on a Civic I used to own.
I use and recommend the InterDynamics "Truck Air" compressors. The lesser/cheap ones are only good for adding a pound or two of air. If you read the instructions on the cheap ones they tell you to run them for just a few minutes them turn them off to cool off. They would take FOREVER to inflate a flat tire. The TruckAir takes up more room in your trunk, but can inflate a full just truck tire from flat to proper in < 5 minutes (I have done it).
shows the item. While I have ordered from AutoBarn before, I got my compressors at KMart. The put them on sale for $39 from time to time. Well worth the money.
Also most flats are really slow leaks. With almost every car these days having space saver spares, I prefer to air the "flat" up and drive to a tire store for a repair. Even if I have to drive home, then re-inflate in the morning, then drive to the tire store that is quicker and easier than putting on the space saver. Add in that some cars can't use the space saver on the driving wheels (front or rear as the case may be) and you might have to dismount/mount twice to get on the road. You are not supposed to go fast or far on them either - so airing up a slow leak is just better.
The other thing to get, in addition to a good compressor is the "AccuPressure" safety caps. My daughter or wife used to say "Come check this tire it looks a little low" and it would be 21lbs or 18 lbs or something. I got them pressure caps for all the tires and now all they have to do BEFORE EACH DRIVE is just walk around the car and note that all the caps are in the green.
are the ones I use, ordered direct (they always have discounts and coupons). I tried some similar ones made by Victor and a couple broke while hand washing the car, so I tossed them all. They DO tend to be a little more lax in reading than they should. It is supposed to be green is within 3psi but I have found during routine checks they will show green with a tire a bit lower than that. So I started buying them one or two pressures too much - so if you have a car that has a door sticker recommending 32psi then buy 34 or 36 psi caps. They will turn yellow or red with a smaller drop in pressure. You still check regularly, but if you don't have an on-board tire pressure monitor a quick walk around will insure you are within a FEW PSI of proper inflation.
you write: >> You are not supposed to go fast or far on them either - so airing up a slow leak is just better. >>
I'm sure you don't mean that as a blanket statement. A slow leak might not remain slow as you are driving, and what was at one point in time, a repairable tire could become a non-repairable tire due to sidewall damage (if you drive on it far while it is flat), or worse, a loss of control leading to a collision, injury or fatality (tire comess off rim). One moment you are safe. Seems to me driving the vehicle further puts you in a less safe situation (almost) everytime. I'll explain my opinion further below.
Say you notice the tire low or almost flat at your place of business or your home. Are you going to risk driving on it as is, or inflating it and getting stuck in traffic with it or possibly having it quickly leak out just a few miles down the road when you are driving on it on your way to a station?
Let's say the road debris affected the sidewall. If you can tell the sidewall has been compromised, are you sure that if it fails, it's going to fail in a controllable manner? I'm not sure I could.
Personally, I would never instruct anyone that I know to drive on a conventional tire with debris in it, partially inflated or not. The exception which I mentioned, and this is my opinion, I don't know the wisdom of it, would be scenarios where I'd move the vehicle out of a busy intersection or from a highway hazard because it was unsafe to me or other motorists to leave the vehicle where it was until help arrives. It's better to save your life and lives of the other occupants of the vehicle and potentially ruin that $80-$120 tire by driving on it (very slowly), than leaving it just off the side of a road in a bad spot (a very narrow breakdown lane, or near a merge or busy exit - specially when the weather is bad and visibility is lousy).
Knowing how to keep a doughnut / spare properly inflated in case it is needed, and the proper way to dismount a flat and mount the spare is good training for everyone physically able to do the job because it can save you money and keep you safe (if you know how to do the job properly). If you don't know how to do it, it can make you less safe, and lead to damage.
Honda makes their sissor jacks and the equipment to raise and lower the jack very very easy to use (the crowbar inserts in the bar with the hooked end to be used like a crank). The most difficult part of the exercise is overcomming the torque applied to the lugnuts. Granted, not everyone may be capable of loosening them without a "cheater pipe" or longer-handled crowbar.
But, it's also vitally important to be able to recognize when it's simply unsafe to exit your vehicle and attempt to work on the vehicle, either to inflate a slowly leaking tire (which I personally would never do) or change it (like on a busy / congested highway, narrow breakdown, bad visability, bad weather etc etc etc).
I just take exception to the blanket statement you made about it being "better".
Agreed that a vehicle walk-around or sighting the relative inflation of all 4 tires is a good habit to get into. Also, pulling over somewhere safe at the first hint of steering, vibration, thumping, or other handling issues is a good practice too.
Not that anyone cares b/c nobody responded to my posts (I know I know...boo hoo, suck it up...) but I think I found the source of the "coin in a tin can" rattle coming from the right rear passenger side my '04 Accord Coupe.
As it turns out, the knobs that hold the cargo net are screwed into the interior piece of the trunk on each side. Where it pokes through on the right side, just forward of the scissor jack compartment, the screw point is about 1/4"-1/2" from the side of a flat metal looking box that I think is the "Dynamic" something or other (it looks like the box that used to hang from under the rear passenger shelf on '03 Accord coupes but I was told this part was relocated for '04 when I showed my dealer the TSB re: that part rattling on the '03's).
Anyway - it seems that, when the elasticized cargo net is attached on both sides, it acts like a giant spring, flexing the knob + interior panel + screw point just enough that the point of the screw makes intermittent contact with the side of the box in side the fender. I've put a piece of dense foam between the screwpoint and the side of the box and will see if that stops the rattle on my regular commute to work tomorrow.
Yes, they have a "needle" that pokes in the valve to release air into the cap. The reason I tossed the Victor caps is that during a hand wash I knocked the plastic cap off the body of the pressure cap. When this happed the air began rapidly escaping the tire. I just removed the cap and aired the tire back to proper pressure (with the Truck Air in the trunk). I removed all the caps and tossed them.
I have never had a problem with the ones I ordered directly and they have been on all my cars, my wife's car, and my daughter's car for several years now.
Yes this COULD be source of a leak, but since we walk around and check them each time we get into the car - if they DID leak we would know and could promptly re-inflate the tires. Other than seaonal pressure changes or routine air loss, the only large losses have been due to a nail or something in the tire.
I would never drive something large in the tread of the tire - but a nail causing a slow leak I would not bother changing the tire - I would air up and make a bee line for the nearest tire shop for a repair.
Not having a good pump mean you WILL be changing the tire no matter where you are. In the rain, the cold, the heat, a bad spot in town - the TruckAir will have your tire up to the right pressure probably before you can get the jack out of the trunk and get started.
I am not an idiot - and I assumed folks reading my post were not idiots either. If you have any sidewall puncture or damage you don't drive on the tire. If you are dring and feel something wrong, you stop and check it out. If you know you have a slow or any leak, you don't drive all over the place making side trips etc. If you know you are facing a crawl in rush hour traffic to get your tire fixed, then put on the spare. Any broken belts or other damage - you don't drive on it.
You sound like the person that writes the "close cover before striking" and "do not take internally" obvious warnings on products :-)
Having a good pump CAN all but eliminate the need for a spare with modern tires. In fact a couple of my cars have had NO SPARES at all.
I did buy spare full size wheels for my wife and daughter's cars and get a 5th new tire mounted on each. Now with a pump in each car, and a full size spare in each, and the pressure caps, we are ready to go :-) We can also to a 5 tire rotation to equlize the tire wear - and if we ever HAVE to put on the spare it will be a full size spare that has no speed or distance limits and will not trash the trans-axle or differential due to its small size.
i didn't mean to sound like the person that writes the "close cover before striking" warnings, and in no way was i implying you were an idiot. i just have a differing opinion about use of a pump with debris in the tire to get to a station.
would you do me a favor? would you check to see that the owners manual which comes with the pump doesn't have a warning to the effect: "do not use pump to inflate a tire or other object with a known defect".
i don't mean to sound like the guy who would write that warning either, but that's what i sincerely believe. peace.
I've only changed 3 tires that went flat while driving. It's really no big deal changing a tire. I don't think the pump is worth owning to replace a spare.
I agreed with Dennis that most flats are slow flats and those flats happen rarely. I have got just a few flats in 10 years. I prefer a pump over replacing a flat tire. It took long time and labor to jack up a heavy car using a small jack. My new car does not have a spare tire Just be aware and visually check your 4 tires often.
I picked up my Graphite Pearl EX V6 with navi on Thursday. The car is beautiful and runs great. I noticed yesterday that, on the passenger side front dash airbag cover, you can see the outline of where the seams are for the airbag. Has anyone noticed this? :confuse: I'll take notice next time I'm at the dealership or see an Accord in a parking lot. You can notice it better looking over from the driver's seat or looking in from the outside on the passenger side. Thanks for any feedback you can provide.
It's a good sign that this is the only thing that has caught my eye or ear at this point. This is my first Honda and the fit, finish and quality are better than I expected. This car is replacing my Volvo S60 T4 and I am not at all disappointed.
Thanks Dennis. Yes, I am talking about the front airbag cover on the dash. When looking over from the driver's seat, not so much head on from the passenger's seat, I can see the rectangular seam of the air bag and the inner seams as well. I'm not sure if it's an issue with the thinness of the dash cover (costs have to be made somewhere) or a flaw in the finish. I checked out a new Accord in the Kroger parking lot today and saw the outline by looking through the windshield on the passenger side. It was a faint outline, but there all the same. It just seems like the dash padding over the airbag should be just a bit thicker. You can not see the seams through the dash of my Volvo S60, that's why I'm wondering if I have a finishing flaw. Thanks for your feedback.
I have spares (if the car has a place for one) - and I have said I try to replace the donuts with full size spares if they will fit. You can get a good deal on a used wheel at a "junk yard" or on fleabay - just make sure they are true and no bends befor getting a tire mounted on them.
But as I said, I much prefer doing the pump thing. Unless yours wives and daughters are different from mine, they are not going to want to change a tire - but they can easily operate a pump and air up the tire to get someplace for a repair. Heck, I can change a tire too but the pump is just easier. If you are on a non-level place, or dirt, or gravel, or broken pavement it is not very safe to jack up the car. Most folks probably don't carry a wheel chock - unless it is provided with the car (some BMWs, etc). So you are going to have to call someone or drive your car to a better sport and risk ruining the sidewall or the rim or both. No need when you can air it up quickly.
Then there is the service to your fellow motorists, friends, and families. While I might not have the time or proper clothes on to change a spare to help someone out - I can easily air up their tire, see if it holds, and send them on their way.
Another reason to carry a pump - when was the last time any of you checked the pressure in your spares? I bet for a lot of folks it is "never" - but I would think a higher percentage of folks here would have than average. With the mini-donut spares they need like 60-80psi in them and while ALL tires lose air no matter if they have a puncture or not - the higher pressure and smaller valume of the donut means any loss = low pressure. So if you have to use the donut, you have a pump to get it back up to the proper pressure.
You do know that running the donut on the front of a FWD car can hose the transaxle, right? Running on the rear on an LSD RWD car can too. So if you have a front flat you have to put the donut on the rear of a FWD car and put the rear tire in place of the flat one. So without a pump you have to jack, lift, and change twice.
I also carry portable "booster" batteries in all the cars. You can get them on sale for $20-25 and they do a remarkable job of jump-starting a dead car. Even my little $20 Rally Boost-It started a 5.0l V-8 with a dead battery. You then recharge them and they are good to go again. If my car will not start, I can jump start it without bothering someone else. If their car will not start, I can start it without risking my car's battery, alternator, or electronics. I will have tried to do my bit for other motorists - without risk or as much effort on my part.
If the pump and the jumper battery will not fix them up, they can borrow my cell phone to call for help :-)
Hi Dennis, your posts have been a big help to me (thanks! ) and you obviously know this car well. I put up a post regarding seeing airbag seams through the passenger side dash - have you noticed anything in your experiences?
Are you talking about the passenger side front air bag cover - on the dash? On my S2000 from the right angle (in the driver's seat) and I see the "lips" of the airbag opening under the cover. I will have to remember to look in my wife's new Accord to see if they can be seen or not. I have had other (non Honda) cars in the past where this could be seen - but lots of cars where I have never noticed it.
It is supposed to be nice here the next couple of days (sunny and 70s) so I will be driving the S. If I think about it I will take a picture of what I am talking about in my car. AFAIK it is nothing "wrong" .
There was a link that was posted (regarding Honda Accord TSBs) by a member about 3-5 months ago. The link is a forum that has the TSBs in pdf files.
Does anyone remember that link?? If you do can you post that link? I'm unable to locate it anywhere on the Honda Section.
btw, the leather seat on the driver makes sqeaking noises when I'm sitting on it. The driver side visor is making vibrating noises also. Anyone has these problems, I will try and have the dealer replace it.
The last two tire problems I have had in the last 3 years have completely destroyed the tire. With the new stiffer sidewalls, lower profile tires, higher driving speeds you are more like to get tires destroyed completely. One was a blow-out, but because of the low profile and stiff sidewalls handling was controllable and I was able to safely stop from highway speed.
Just beware! While I think all extend warranties are basically money down the drain, I do feel that tire road hazard warranties are worth it. I also think AAA is worth it.
I think it is unfortunate that some of the new cars, such as the HAH, have done away with spares. Sometimes a spare is needed.
Good luck,
P.S. I have had a lot lot more than 20 years driving experience
Comments
Just jump the battery, let it idle awhile and drive it out of there!
Get the tire pressures checked, change the oil and check the fluid levels. That's it!
The battery might be deteriorated enough to merit a replacement before starting. But odds are good you'd be up and running to drive home and then start changing oil and fresh gas and battery.
You don't say where you live; if in an area where the discharged battery was in below freezing weather, the case or plates might have been damaged by freezing.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Could it be a belt issue?
Thank you,
Yes, rodents can eat wires in a car's engine compartment. I saw a customer with a $1800 bill once due to this. And if the wire was not chewed on what happened? Did someone cut the wires? Be more careful about where you park your car. You can't blame Honda for a rodent.
Honda does not provide rentals. It's up to each individual dealer to provide loaners or not.
"Ever turn I make I hear the click click" ... maybe it's your turn signal.
If a brake job, a rodent, and a "broke down" rental make you think this car is going to fall apart then you should trade it. Go find something that you "think" will be better. Good luck.
Another issue: The driver's seat squeaks when in a turn. Any solutions?
Thanks for any input.
In the old days, many people recommended oil changes every 3000 miles, and we got that figure burned into our brains. If we don't get our oil changed that often, we don't feel right.
These days, car makers recommend 5K or even 10K oil change intervals, and some people go by those guidelines.
Very few of us do the more important service more often than the car maker recommends. I bet almost no one has a 30K service done every 15K miles.
Sure, read up on car maintenance. Not so much to save $20 having the oil changed. When you have a repair bill of $500 or $1000, it is nice to be able to understand what you are paying for.
I'd recommend:
Go to your local public library or to a larger city's library and check the books available for checkout in their automobile maintenance titles. You can check the titles they hold on their websites for most libaries here. That's easier than going to one that doesn't have much choice; go to one that has many current titles.
Go to you local bookstore (Borders, e.g.). They have comfortable chairs plopped around the store. Sit and read through the books they offer. You'll learn lots. You'll also learn some books are at your level and some aren't written the way you'd like. Then pick one you want to buy.
Go to your local Autozone and other auto parts stores. They too have maintenance books. You can also pick up drain pans and straps for removing oil filters. They also can instruct you on wrench size for your drain plug.
I'd search the internet for sites about how to do home maintenance on your particular flavor of car--Edmunds included. Ask in re problems and solutions discussion for info and help.bobst, "Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions" #10028, 2 Apr 2005 9:05 am
Do I recall some saying certain Honda engines have oil filters that are difficult to reach? And do the drain plugs need to be replaced each? time oil is drained to keep a good seal on the washer part?
And always check that the oil filter seal ring came off with the filter and didn't stick to the car engine side. (I learned the hard way--it leaks with two seals on there.)
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Practice changing a tire. This can come in very handy.
Also get in the habit of looking at your tires when you approach your car. Sometimes you'll see a nail looking back at you in the visible tread area. Just found one last week. It hadn't penetrated but driving on it more would have driven it on through the steel belts.
If it saves one flat tire when you come out of the restaurant or theater or shopping mall, it's worth the time doing the above.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You know, if you don't add oil and your engine blows up, it's not much of a problem. Just pull over, get out and walk, and have one of your older female admirers buy you a new car. No harm done.
But if you ignore the tires and one fails when you are driving, that could be unfortunate. Remember the stories on the news about Ford Explorers and their Firestone tires?
Before buying this car you basically asked the same questions. Some of us who are pretty car savvy gave you suggestions which you didn't follow. You should/could have simply jump started the car and driven it to your shop.
It hasn't sat for twenty years, just two years which isn't a big deal at all.
Your brakes and hoses will be fine and the gas in the tank will be fine too especially when you mix it with fresh gas.
Hopefully, your mechanic won't find too many things to replace that are just fine as they are.
As my accord ages, I am buying more and more replacement components since I do most of the workd myself and would like to find an online source, rather than running to the dealer each time and playing these games. Thanks
like a louder version of snow tire rumble with a wobble harmonic (even
though I have a brand new set of very quiet Goodyear Comfortrak tires).
The Honda dealer found a worn wheel bearing and wanted almost $350 for
the repair. I brought my car to a local Sears to see if they would do
it for less. Indeed, they wanted to charge me $220 for the same job.
Although the Sears mechanic told me he may have to replace the ball
joint also because it has "too much play" and is slightly rusted. He
claims the ball joint needs to be removed for him to replace the wheel
bearing. This sounds a bit fishy to me, especially after looking at my
service manual. I don't see why the mechanic would need to remove the
ball joint to replace the wheel bearing. Perhaps someone can confirm
this for me. I know Sears is not known for their honesty or
trustworthiness, but since I have a decent knowledge of cars and I want
a good price on this repair, I decided to give them a shot. Thanks
Following is my list of happiness for today:
1- My ultimate Heaven: Brand new Accord Hybrid 2005 at 2100 miles.
2- My second Heaven: Accord V6 EX Coupe 2003 at 25K miles.
3- My third Heaven: Accord V6 EX Sedan 2002 at 27K miles.
4- My lovely baby/ fourth Heaven on earth: Accord I4 EX 1995 (with 1996 engine/ transmission at less than 20K miles, 4 new brakes, 4 new tires, new AC freon, just washed and "pampered" it this morning).
I love this Accord I4 95 baby the most. He is so lovely, so dependent and so loyal to me during the last 10 years and 3 months. This baby has never broken down whatsoever in the last 10 years plus.
Bravo Honda ! Honda Civic, Insight, Pilot. S2000, NSX, Element, Odessey, Accord, Accord hybrid...win again and again. I love my Honda fleet. Have a good weekend folks. All my Honda Accord keep purring and revving so proudly every single day, rain or shine.
Since you feel this way, WHY on earth would you take your car there???
It's a good sign that this is the only thing that has caught my eye or ear at this point. This is my first Honda and the fit, finish and quality are better than I expected. This car is replacing my Volvo S60 T4 and I am not at all disappointed.
Regards,
Tony
They have better price. Some components are $100 cheaper compared with other sites I know.
Had a nice evening here in Kentucky. Opened the moon roof, rolled the windows down, turned on the XM and just took a little ride. It was nice.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
compared with other site. I guess it's pay to shop around.
Basically, the issue is that the tachometer begins to gyrate wildly. It starts off as just a minor twitch, but can be as bad as going from pegged on 0 to 4000rpm and back again in less than a second. Even when pegged on 0, the car still runs, and I can accelerate just fine. However, sometimes when it transitions to the 0 mark, I can feel a momentary loss of acceleration. The tachometer never goes higher than it should be at for any given speed. I have not noticed any correlation between external conditions (heat, rain, etc) and the problem occurring. However, it has become more frequent in the past couple of weeks, and now occurs nearly every time I drive. Additionally, it sometimes takes up to 30 mile of driving before it starts, but sometimes it starts immediately, and once it begins, it won't stop until the car is left to rest for the night.
I am not very knowledgeable about cars, but I want to know what the problem might be so that I don't get ripped off by a mechanic, or if it is something simple, I could try to fix it myself. Thanks for any help you can provide.
thanks for any help before I go to the dealer tommorrow or the day after.
http://www.autobarn.net/achd-275.html
shows the item. While I have ordered from AutoBarn before, I got my compressors at KMart. The put them on sale for $39 from time to time. Well worth the money.
Also most flats are really slow leaks. With almost every car these days having space saver spares, I prefer to air the "flat" up and drive to a tire store for a repair. Even if I have to drive home, then re-inflate in the morning, then drive to the tire store that is quicker and easier than putting on the space saver. Add in that some cars can't use the space saver on the driving wheels (front or rear as the case may be) and you might have to dismount/mount twice to get on the road. You are not supposed to go fast or far on them either - so airing up a slow leak is just better.
The other thing to get, in addition to a good compressor is the "AccuPressure" safety caps. My daughter or wife used to say "Come check this tire it looks a little low" and it would be 21lbs or 18 lbs or something. I got them pressure caps for all the tires and now all they have to do BEFORE EACH DRIVE is just walk around the car and note that all the caps are in the green.
http://www.accupressurecaps.com/
are the ones I use, ordered direct (they always have discounts and coupons). I tried some similar ones made by Victor and a couple broke while hand washing the car, so I tossed them all. They DO tend to be a little more lax in reading than they should. It is supposed to be green is within 3psi but I have found during routine checks they will show green with a tire a bit lower than that. So I started buying them one or two pressures too much - so if you have a car that has a door sticker recommending 32psi then buy 34 or 36 psi caps. They will turn yellow or red with a smaller drop in pressure. You still check regularly, but if you don't have an on-board tire pressure monitor a quick walk around will insure you are within a FEW PSI of proper inflation.
Dennis
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
>>
You are not supposed to go fast or far on them either - so airing up a slow leak is just better.
>>
I'm sure you don't mean that as a blanket statement. A slow leak might not remain slow as you are driving, and what was at one point in time, a repairable tire could become a non-repairable tire due to sidewall damage (if you drive on it far while it is flat), or worse, a loss of control leading to a collision, injury or fatality (tire comess off rim). One moment you are safe. Seems to me driving the vehicle further puts you in a less safe situation (almost) everytime. I'll explain my opinion further below.
Say you notice the tire low or almost flat at your place of business or your home. Are you going to risk driving on it as is, or inflating it and getting stuck in traffic with it or possibly having it quickly leak out just a few miles down the road when you are driving on it on your way to a station?
Let's say the road debris affected the sidewall. If you can tell the sidewall has been compromised, are you sure that if it fails, it's going to fail in a controllable manner? I'm not sure I could.
Personally, I would never instruct anyone that I know to drive on a conventional tire with debris in it, partially inflated or not. The exception which I mentioned, and this is my opinion, I don't know the wisdom of it, would be scenarios where I'd move the vehicle out of a busy intersection or from a highway hazard because it was unsafe to me or other motorists to leave the vehicle where it was until help arrives. It's better to save your life and lives of the other occupants of the vehicle and potentially ruin that $80-$120 tire by driving on it (very slowly), than leaving it just off the side of a road in a bad spot (a very narrow breakdown lane, or near a merge or busy exit - specially when the weather is bad and visibility is lousy).
Knowing how to keep a doughnut / spare properly inflated in case it is needed, and the proper way to dismount a flat and mount the spare is good training for everyone physically able to do the job because it can save you money and keep you safe (if you know how to do the job properly). If you don't know how to do it, it can make you less safe, and lead to damage.
Honda makes their sissor jacks and the equipment to raise and lower the jack very very easy to use (the crowbar inserts in the bar with the hooked end to be used like a crank). The most difficult part of the exercise is overcomming the torque applied to the lugnuts. Granted, not everyone may be capable of loosening them without a "cheater pipe" or longer-handled crowbar.
But, it's also vitally important to be able to recognize when it's simply unsafe to exit your vehicle and attempt to work on the vehicle, either to inflate a slowly leaking tire (which I personally would never do) or change it (like on a busy / congested highway, narrow breakdown, bad visability, bad weather etc etc etc).
I just take exception to the blanket statement you made about it being "better".
Agreed that a vehicle walk-around or sighting the relative inflation of all 4 tires is a good habit to get into. Also, pulling over somewhere safe at the first hint of steering, vibration, thumping, or other handling issues is a good practice too.
As it turns out, the knobs that hold the cargo net are screwed into the interior piece of the trunk on each side. Where it pokes through on the right side, just forward of the scissor jack compartment, the screw point is about 1/4"-1/2" from the side of a flat metal looking box that I think is the "Dynamic" something or other (it looks like the box that used to hang from under the rear passenger shelf on '03 Accord coupes but I was told this part was relocated for '04 when I showed my dealer the TSB re: that part rattling on the '03's).
Anyway - it seems that, when the elasticized cargo net is attached on both sides, it acts like a giant spring, flexing the knob + interior panel + screw point just enough that the point of the screw makes intermittent contact with the side of the box in side the fender. I've put a piece of dense foam between the screwpoint and the side of the box and will see if that stops the rattle on my regular commute to work tomorrow.
I have never had a problem with the ones I ordered directly and they have been on all my cars, my wife's car, and my daughter's car for several years now.
Yes this COULD be source of a leak, but since we walk around and check them each time we get into the car - if they DID leak we would know and could promptly re-inflate the tires. Other than seaonal pressure changes or routine air loss, the only large losses have been due to a nail or something in the tire.
Dennis
Not having a good pump mean you WILL be changing the tire no matter where you are. In the rain, the cold, the heat, a bad spot in town - the TruckAir will have your tire up to the right pressure probably before you can get the jack out of the trunk and get started.
I am not an idiot - and I assumed folks reading my post were not idiots either. If you have any sidewall puncture or damage you don't drive on the tire. If you are dring and feel something wrong, you stop and check it out. If you know you have a slow or any leak, you don't drive all over the place making side trips etc. If you know you are facing a crawl in rush hour traffic to get your tire fixed, then put on the spare. Any broken belts or other damage - you don't drive on it.
You sound like the person that writes the "close cover before striking" and "do not take internally" obvious warnings on products :-)
Having a good pump CAN all but eliminate the need for a spare with modern tires. In fact a couple of my cars have had NO SPARES at all.
I did buy spare full size wheels for my wife and daughter's cars and get a 5th new tire mounted on each. Now with a pump in each car, and a full size spare in each, and the pressure caps, we are ready to go :-) We can also to a 5 tire rotation to equlize the tire wear - and if we ever HAVE to put on the spare it will be a full size spare that has no speed or distance limits and will not trash the trans-axle or differential due to its small size.
Dennis
would you do me a favor? would you check to see that the owners manual which comes with the pump doesn't have a warning to the effect: "do not use pump to inflate a tire or other object with a known defect".
i don't mean to sound like the guy who would write that warning either, but that's what i sincerely believe. peace.
Then the car ran file.
It's a good sign that this is the only thing that has caught my eye or ear at this point. This is my first Honda and the fit, finish and quality are better than I expected. This car is replacing my Volvo S60 T4 and I am not at all disappointed.
But as I said, I much prefer doing the pump thing. Unless yours wives and daughters are different from mine, they are not going to want to change a tire - but they can easily operate a pump and air up the tire to get someplace for a repair. Heck, I can change a tire too but the pump is just easier. If you are on a non-level place, or dirt, or gravel, or broken pavement it is not very safe to jack up the car. Most folks probably don't carry a wheel chock - unless it is provided with the car (some BMWs, etc). So you are going to have to call someone or drive your car to a better sport and risk ruining the sidewall or the rim or both. No need when you can air it up quickly.
Then there is the service to your fellow motorists, friends, and families. While I might not have the time or proper clothes on to change a spare to help someone out - I can easily air up their tire, see if it holds, and send them on their way.
Another reason to carry a pump - when was the last time any of you checked the pressure in your spares? I bet for a lot of folks it is "never" - but I would think a higher percentage of folks here would have than average. With the mini-donut spares they need like 60-80psi in them and while ALL tires lose air no matter if they have a puncture or not - the higher pressure and smaller valume of the donut means any loss = low pressure. So if you have to use the donut, you have a pump to get it back up to the proper pressure.
You do know that running the donut on the front of a FWD car can hose the transaxle, right? Running on the rear on an LSD RWD car can too. So if you have a front flat you have to put the donut on the rear of a FWD car and put the rear tire in place of the flat one. So without a pump you have to jack, lift, and change twice.
I also carry portable "booster" batteries in all the cars. You can get them on sale for $20-25 and they do a remarkable job of jump-starting a dead car. Even my little $20 Rally Boost-It started a 5.0l V-8 with a dead battery. You then recharge them and they are good to go again. If my car will not start, I can jump start it without bothering someone else. If their car will not start, I can start it without risking my car's battery, alternator, or electronics. I will have tried to do my bit for other motorists - without risk or as much effort on my part.
If the pump and the jumper battery will not fix them up, they can borrow my cell phone to call for help :-)
Dennis
It is supposed to be nice here the next couple of days (sunny and 70s) so I will be driving the S. If I think about it I will take a picture of what I am talking about in my car. AFAIK it is nothing "wrong" .
Dennis
There was a link that was posted (regarding Honda Accord TSBs) by a member about 3-5 months ago. The link is a forum that has the TSBs in pdf files.
Does anyone remember that link?? If you do can you post that link? I'm unable to locate it anywhere on the Honda Section.
btw, the leather seat on the driver makes sqeaking noises when I'm sitting on it. The driver side visor is making vibrating noises also.
Anyone has these problems, I will try and have the dealer replace it.
Thanks
The last two tire problems I have had in the last 3 years have completely destroyed the tire. With the new stiffer sidewalls, lower profile tires, higher driving speeds you are more like to get tires destroyed completely. One was a blow-out, but because of the low profile and stiff sidewalls handling was controllable and I was able to safely stop from highway speed.
Just beware! While I think all extend warranties are basically money down the drain, I do feel that tire road hazard warranties are worth it. I also think AAA is worth it.
I think it is unfortunate that some of the new cars, such as the HAH, have done away with spares. Sometimes a spare is needed.
Good luck,
P.S. I have had a lot lot more than 20 years driving experience