Have you checked your tire pressures with an accurate gauge? You would think the dealer would do this pre-delivery but they may not have. Check it with the tires cold (have not been driven for 2 or more hours) and set the pressure to the pressures listed on the driver's door jam sticker (not the max pressure on the sidewall of the tire).
Seems like it is 32psi front and 30psi rear - but it is on the sticker.
I have a 2005 Accord EX, less than 4 months old, with approx. 2500 miles. I've taken it into the dealer twice to fix an intermittent rattle behind the moon roof, and they haven't been able to do so after (1) applying more insulation inside the headliner and some foam tape around the moon roof opening and (2) repositioning the moon roof visor and installing more insulation.
I will be taking the car in a third time for this problem as well as for a rattle in the driver's side B pillar (new problem).
My question to all of you new Accord owners with interior rattles ... have you been able to get the problem fixed by the dealer? Did you have as frustrating an experience as I'm having? This is my first new car and my first Honda, and it hasn't been a great experience.
Your advice to jewel11's post #10165, about checking tire pressure is fine. However, your suggestion "Check it with the tires cold (have not been driven for 2 or more hours)" may not be what you wanted to say. Could you have really meant "not been driven for 2 or more MILES"?
I had the same thing with my new 05 accord BUT after 1,200KM about 750 miles things are getting noticebly better. I think this might be part of the breakin process (like when i did new shocks and springs with my old Camry, very stiff until they settled in).
Anyone know of problems with occasional engine start problems with a 2000 V6 Accord. Only happens few times a yr. Engine wont start rough idles for a while then dosent happen again for several months. If it happens within a few days the check engine light comes on but dealer dosent have a clue because I cant duplicate problem for them. Any thoughts?
Nope, to check the tires "cold" means the car has not been driven for two hours or more. It can vary with outside air temperature, for example in "Frostbite Falls" in the middle of the winter you can probably get by with less of a wait for "cold" temperatures than you could in Texas in August on a sunny day.
If you don't have a tire pressure gauge, then shame on your You can drive less than a mile (give or take) and surface street speeds w/o heating them up too much. If you have to drive too far to an air station, then you should but in too much air to compensate - then drive straight to WallyWorld or an autoparts store for a decent air gauge of your own.
If you have a gauge (yeah!) but but compressor (boo) then you check them "cold" at home and then drive to the air. Check again and adjust for the difference. So if your sticker calls for 32psi and you read 30psi cold, then at the air station you now read 32psi, you air up to 34psi - that should be 32psi cold. You can re-check it when your tires indeed "cold" (air temperature).
As it warms up - which should be now since spring has spring, you may have to let air out. What was perfect at 30 degrees is too much at 70 degrees. If you have to err, err on the over inflated side at least your tire will not overheat and blow out from too little air.
5000 km ago (yes I am Canadian) I had my timing belt replaced, and replaced the water pump at the same time. Well now, the water pump is leaking, my gas mileage has gone down, and the engine idles really rough. I took the car to Honda and they think the pump wasn't torqued properly or the gasket was twisted when installed. I am getting the mechanic who did the job to fix the pump. Is there anything I should mention to him about fixing the rough idle and poor gas mileage?
I have a '05 Accord EX V6 with about 4500K miles on it. Great car! My first Honda. Here's my question. I was driving about 60mph on the highway the other day and stepped on it a bit hard to accelerate. I brought the RPMs up to about 5500, way below red line. I noticed the Check Engine Light flashing. Once I eased up on the acceleration the light went off. I tried again a few minutes later and the same thing happened. I have tried again and no light. The car shifts and drives perfect. Any ideas?
Are you sure it was the CEL that came on? Normally when it comes on it stays on until the problem goes away AND a certain number of start/stop cycles have been completed.
If it was the CEL you can run the car by the dealer (under warranty) or any number of auto parts places (AutoZone, Advance, etc) and they will read the codes out for free. It is strange that the light would go back off again. In any case, the fault code should still be stored in the computer even if the light is now off.
I bought a 2004 Highlander last year full loaded and just bought a new 2005 EX-V6 Honda Accord sedan a few weeks ago. I am happy with both with the exception of Honda navigation. In addition, I currently own a 1999 and 2000 accord. I did not want an SUV but my wife insisted. If I were you, I would look at the Pilot also. At the time, I was looking at SUV's the Pilot did not have heated seats or moon roof. In my opinion, the navigation in the Toyota is far superior to Honda. I have navigation in both. The Toyota map covers practically all of illinois. The Honda navigation is less sophisticated and does not have the covergae that Toyota has. I cannot believe that Honda is so far behind Toyota on navigation. Hope this helps.
Had the service performed on 1999 Accord for ignition switch recall, check engine light with P1166 and P1167, and engine stalling symptoms at Grace Honda in San Bruno.
1. Ignition switch - Grace Honda replaced some clip and checked for problems; none were found.
2. Check engine light - Performed diagnosis and found primary O2 sensor to be bad. Replaced the primary O2 sensor that is located in front center of the engine.
3. Engine stalling symptoms - Grace stated that the RPM was reving low during idle, so they adjusted the idle setting to 750 RPM.
I was charged $365.00(160 for O2 sensor, and 180 for labor) for the services listed above. The stalling symptoms went away with the engine idling higher at 750 RPM, and the check engine light also went away, but I am going to wait 3 or 4 more days to make sure the light does not come back.
It took them 20-minutes to diagnose the problem and 5-minute to replace the primary O2 sensor.
I am going file a complaint against Honda of San Francisco for stating that the O2 sensors were good during their initial diagnosis, eventhough, Grace Honda found the primary O2 sensor to be faulty.
I changed my timing belt and balance shaft belt this weekend and have encountered a very strange problem with my alternator. After replacing the alternator and PS pump, I started the engine and a squealing sound came from the alternator. I played with the belt tension, and with a lot of slack, the squealing subsided somewhat. I assumed the alternator was going bad (I had noticed prior that the engine would bog down when operating accessories like windows) so I got a replacement. The replacement has the same problem, but here is the confusing part: the squealing only happens when the voltage regulator is plugged in. When the the adapter that plugs into the alternator is not plugged in, there is NO squealing. So, I've ruled out the belt and alternator. Is it possible for a short to cause the alternator to seize up in its electromagnetic field? If so, where could it be? I checked the wires going back to the the injectors and saw no problems. Ive also checked grounds and replaced the old battery terminals. I'm stumped.
I agree, you are definitely due some $$$. I work with electronics, and just because something passes a diagnostic doesn't mean it works. Thanks for posting a followup.
Just a suggestion, take it to a Honda dealer. And yes, new parts can be defective. Most do great work (see some prior posts the last few days). Just tell them your symptoms and let the diagnostics do the rest. Good luck.
If the alternator turns freely by hand, then under a STRONG load the alternator is hard to turn - then the load may be just too great for the belt not to slip. The regulator may be bad or something in the car is drawing way too much current. If it is not the regulator, then pull all the fuses and relays and put back just enough for the car to run (fuel pump, etc) and see what happens. If the load is not too great, then add back stuff until the problem comes back.
Thanks Dennis! As far as I know, the regulator should be fine. There may be a problem though as the replacement is from Autozone. I pulled everything I could from the fuse boxes (the only one I left was the ECU fuse), but still no change. I should also note that its not just a little squealing. The pulley immediate heats up and after only a few seconds it gets very hot. It seems like once the adapter plug is seated in the alternator, the whole thing locks up.
After I read your post, I immediately "ran for my life" to the nearest Honda dealer, 2 minutes before they close, to buy windshield wiper rubber. I already inserted them in and now they work nicely like...Heaven.
FYI, this little I4 95 EX Accord is my reborn/ resurrected Honda. I have it for 10 years and 5 months. I just put in new engine, new transmission, 4 new tires, 4 new shocks/ struts, 4 new brakes, new wiper blades, new fluid, new oil, etc....Many critical parts I put in are new except the original starter, muffler, body paint, chassis, etc. I have been insane with this little...Nirvina. It will continue to run as my little street rocket for another 200K - 250K miles as it ran so beautifully 200K miles in the last 10+ years. Absolutely, during almost 11 years, it never broke down, even once. I feel like I was reborn with this "little resurrected baby" too. It has been so loyal to me.
I keep hopping back and forth between my...4 Nirvana (brand new top Accord hybrid 255 HP, 2 new Accord V6, 240 and 200 HP and this little 11 years old monster of 145 HP). I do feel like Heaven as they all have been running like street racers. I love to hear my 4 Accords' new engines humming, purring along the roads and accelerating real beautifully. While driving each Accord, my feeling is different when their transmission shift along.
I greatly appreciate your quick and valuable advice. Yesterday, I tried to replace the worn windshield wipers using the stupid Kragen wipers but could not figure it out how to do it unless "breaking things" and replacing the 2 wiper arms and rubber. Luckily, I did not break anything. Net result: I saved $15 buck using Honda wiper rubber. Of course, I did save ton of my hard-earned money when I rebuilt this little baby after my careful research and realistic plan to rebuild my beloved car. Thank you very much my True King of Honda. Have a good one. VIVRE LE HONDA, KINGS OF THE ROADS !!!
One quick test to see if the alternator is OK. While the engine is on with headlights and rear defogger on, measure the voltage at the battery. It should be between 14-15 volts. If it's higher than 19V, the regulator is bad. If it's below 13V, the alternator is bad. I would test the rectifier next. Is your charge light on when you turn the ignition to ON and does it stay on when the car is running?
Yeah dwynne. The CEL light was flashing. Never came on solid. Flashed and once the speed came down the light went off. Actually yesterday I floored it from doing about 30mph and brought up the RPMs to about 6K. Light never came on. Very weird. The car rides perfect. The tranny shifts smoothly and it accelerates like hell. My first Honda. I love it.
I'll pick up a voltmeter tonight and check it out. As I recall, the light came on with the ignition at ON, but turned off when the engine was running. How exactly does one go about testing the rectifier anyway? Thanks for your help, I'm really stumped on this one and I'd rather not have to bend on my principles and break the bank by taking it to the dealer.
I have a 99 accord I4. I have noticed lately that when I accelerate from a stop, there is a metalic clinging noise coming from the passenger side, that lasts for a few seconds, which begins at about 2500 rpm. My initial guess was exhaust cowling. I looked under the car, and sure enough, the cowling that surrounds the pipe just behind the engine bay has had two of the bolt holes rusted through and is hanging only on the two rear bolts. Is this the source of the noise or have I got bigger problems?
Yeah, it could be the heat shield on the exhaust. I've had that noise on a couple of cars over the years. On our '97 Accord, I mentioned it when the car was in for state inspection. The tech just used a very large hose clamp and snugged that sucker right up. Noise is gone! On our old Mazda, I removed the heat shield without further issues.
The problem with those heat shields is they can fall off at an inopportune time. It will scare the daylights out of you if it bangs around a lot when it decides to leave your car.
Well the belt slipping will get it hot in a hurry - as would excessive load on the alternator.
If you don't have a cheap meter, then get one. I use a nice Fluke meter, but I picked up a cheap (and I mean real cheap) digital meter from Harbor Frieght to keep upstairs so I didn't have to keep running to the garage when I needed a meter. It works fine, but is cheaply made (I think I gave $5 or less for it).
Do the voltage test, but I think I would measure the resistance to ground from the 12v leads on the alternator and regulator since it sure sounds like a short to ground.
If the alternator has no load it is fine, right? If you connect it up then it goes nuts? Can you disconnect the other end of the cable at the regulator? If so, does it spin OK like this? If so, then disconnect the output of the regulator and connect up the input? What does it do now? With everything pulled in the fuse box doesn't it just about have to be a cable or the parts themselves shorted out to ground?
If you are sure that was the CEL, then I would run by someplace for a free code reading and see if there are any codes stored. Then based on what they say you can run by the dealer for further study.
Is this a V-6? Maybe it was the TCS light you saw (traction control system) and not the CEL?
That means your charge light functions correctly. The rectifier is inside the alternator. It contains the diodes. To test those diodes, you have to de-assemble the alternator and check for their continuity. After reading your original post, it sounds like the bearings in the alternator are going bad. You didn't hear the squealing noise when you unpluged the alternator connector because there is no load put on the alternator. You removed the control circuit. If you recently bought it, bring it back for another one. Let us know how it goes.
I'll check everything I can tonight, circuit-wise. I'm just hoping for a bad ground somewhere. I must note that this has happened with two alternators. The original was a NipponDenso, which was fine until I changed the Tbelt. I thought that it might have been getting weak, as it would bog the engine when I would roll up windows and so forth. So, when it started squealing like that after I put it back, I ASSUMED that the bearings had finally gone out. So, I went and got a replacement and its doing the exact same thing. Oh yeah, ALSO, when I drove the car home after the Tbelt replacement, with a slack alt. belt and the excessive squealing from the original alt. (which I ASSUMED was the bearings), the squealing suddenly stopped after I let off the accelerator to coast down a hill. The car ran great for about 5 miles. However, the alt. belt came off on the interstate and torn up the lower Tbelt cover (which is another mess I have to take care of...). Thanks again guys, I need all the input I can get... Right now Im trying to think of anything that may have happened during the Tbelt replacement, because everything was OK before (with the exception of engine bogging with additional accessories).
The Regional Dealer Rep won’t replace my windshield that has distortion!!! What should I do now?
I finally met with the dealer rep today. She took my two week old car out for a drive. First she acted like she didn’t see anything wrong. Finally, she admitted to seeing the distortion. Then she dragged out another 2005 EX V6 Sedan that also had similar distortion in the windshield. She said that it was proof that the distortion was just a normal characteristic of the vehicle. I explained to her that I had driven a V6 EX with about half the distortion and that I had driven an LX with almost none. I also explained that I had parked my friends 2003 LX next to mine and done a side by side comparison. His had much less distortion. She said that the LXs didn’t count because the LX is a different car with a different windshield. This strikes me as odd because it is the same exact body style! Then she said that she would not replace it because there was no way to guarantee a better windshield and that she could not measure any improvement if there was some.
This windshield is unacceptable. Under certain conditions it is disorienting and dangerous. Just because she dragged out another Accord with a bad windshield doesn’t make a distorting windshield acceptable. What options do I have now?
If your alt belt is also the same belt driving the water pump, how is the tension between the two pulleys? I hope you did adjust the alt belt after replacing it.
Wasn't able to get a voltmeter last night, but plan to tonight. The water pump is driven by the balance shaft belt. I did adjust the tension on the drive belt. I really think that its just a matter of finding where the short or bad ground is now.
That is too bad, Human. We just bought a 2005 Accord and haven't noticed any windshield distortion, but I am not a very observant person.
You could replace the windshield yourself. We got the windshield replaced in our 1999 Accord for $200.
You could complain to the factory rep's boss.
You could make the dealership so miserable they will replace it for free. One guy in our area was unhappy with his new car, so he parked it in front of the dealer with a big paper-mache lemon on the top. You could try someting similar to make people aware that your new Honda is unacceptable. Yes, I'm serious.
Thanks again for the help... To answer some questions (I hope this helps...): the alternator seems fine with a load. It apparently is charging the battery (no dummy light) and the pulley turns fine... UNTIL I seat the four-prong, green plug into the regulator in the alternator. THEN it goes nuts. I'm a little confused on what you mean by disconnecting the regulator output and connecting the input. The regulator is built into the alternator, so do you mean I should disassemble the alt to check this out? ALSO, this model is apparently a wierd mix of the 91 and 92 accord. I've had trouble with a few little things, like different key blanks and so forth. This is a 91 Accord Wagon EX (if that makes any difference). Thanks a lot, again. I really dont want to go to the dealer or a mechanic, but I'm at a loss...
Have you tried calling corporate American Honda customer service yet? If you haven't call them but remember that you'll get more bees with honey. Even though you are angry remain calm and state your case.
I am considering adding the Honda Cassette install to a 2005 Accord Hyrbid. I do not listen to tapes that often but I would use it as clean iPod connector.
Has anyone installed the Honda tape player? Are you happy with it?
It appears to install in the storeage space in front of the shifter. When installed does one lose the flip up door?
Does Honda require a routine change of timing belt/water pump? I know 4 cylinders require changing timing belts, but I do not know if v6's are the same.
I wonder if I can find one online? time passes....
I did for a 86-89, I wonder how similar that is? I did not realize the regulator was built in. You really need a meter - bad, along with a shop manual. You need to know what the voltage is and various places and you need to check for shorts.
It looks like there is a large (heavy) cable that connects the alternator to the under hood fuse/relay box and the 40a #21 fuse. Then the other connector goes from the alternator various places - one is the under hood box and the #8 10 fuse, two other wires go the dash fuse box - one via the "charge warning light" and the other direct. Looks like the other goes to the PGMFI module (if equipped).
I am guessing that one of the first three is shorted to ground. If the wire carrying the juice to the under dash fuse box was shorted, then nothing would work off of that (like the radio, interior lights, etc). Now if something connected to the under dash box was shorted then it would load up when you put that connector in. But you said you pulled all the relays and fuses from it, right? With the regulator plug out, those things don't work now - right?
The other wire is just a shunt to light up the light - I suppose that could be shorted, but I think that would make the light come up (12v to one side of the light and the other side shorted = light). Actually, now that I think about it - this should not be the problem.
So that leaves the wire going to the under hood box and fuse #8. That is supposed to be a 10a fuse and would blow if the problem were behind that - so it must be in front of that?
Another thing I thought of is to make sure all the fuses are the proper size. Someone could have put a huge fuse in by mistake or because a lesser one would blow out.
An inductive pickup ammeter would be really nice to have as well, you could measure the current in various wires without disconnecting them. This would cost a bit more than a $5-8 Harbor Freight meter, though. Maybe one of the auto parts places has one you could rent for a few bucks?
Wow, a hybrid. Sounds nice. I have a 2003 with the cassette deck installed. I love it. It integrates completely with the audio system. You will lose that flip up door but I think it's well worth it. I pulled out tapes I haven't listened to in years. Let's not forget books on tape, and recording songs from CD or radio. With my 6 disk changer, I always have a wealth of music in the car. Where I live there is a wealth of radio broadcasting. Maybe you can't miss what you've never had, but I don't care about satelite radio at all.
How large are the "small" wires? They may not actually carry any current - I may have been mistaken.
Pull the 40 amp fuse and connect everything back up. See if the car starts - if so is the belt slipping and the pulley getting hot ? If so then the alternator is bad.
Or, just pull the big cable off the alternator and do the same test. If the belt slips and pulley gets hot then the alternator is bad.
I'm not exactly sure of the gauge, but I'm thinking they're about 16? Thats just a guess. They are pretty small though, they couldn't carry too much current. Again, thanks! PS. I almost forgot... Last night I played around with the alt without the drive belt on. When the regulator plug is seated, the pulley does not completely "lock up". Its more intermittent. I dont know if its just where the magnetic field is weak and then strong, but as I turned the pulley, there were noticeable moments of hesitation followed by free movement, followed by hesitiation, etc, etc.....
If we think about it - if something is drawing enough current in your car to bind up the alternator then if you stop the car and turn the key on it would drain your battery flat in no time. Right? It would have to - since most everything in the car "runs" no matter if the car is running or not. You could leave the alternator belt off and run the car if you wanted and if there was a huge short it would drain the battery in no time. But it does not, right?
What is happening ( I realize now) is that without the small connector in place you have no juice in the "field coil" so the alternator is NEVER producing anything at all! It you had just a cheap meter you would measure that nothing is coming out of it at all - with the big lead loose you would see 0v or so between that terminal on the alternator and ground.
So it spins freely without the field on it. When you connect up the field then it starts producing and it probably has an internal short that is drawing the current and binding it up.
It is does not bind with the small terminal in place and the big lead off (and I am thinking it will) then connect back up the big lead and pull the 40a fuse from the under hood fuse box (should be marked "charging fuse" or something like that). Then if it still binds up it has to be in the large cable - but I don't see how that would not drain the battery with the key on.
With the big lead off and the small connector on if you start and run you can check the output at the big terminal with a DC voltmeter. If the alternator is shorted internal you will not get anything like 14-16v out that terminal.
I found this great explanation on the web so you can see what I am talking about:
As shown in the first schematic if the "diode trio" were shorted to ground the battery would not drain but the alternator would bind up sending high current to ground.
Dennis, thanks a lot for the help. Its definitely starting to make more sense. I got a multimeter (cheap) and did a little checking before it started raining. I started by disconnecting the large lead, leaving the small connector attached. The pulley spun freely and it was actually putting out about 15 volts (from what I could tell from the analog meter...). Also, I tried placing the lead back on the terminal while it was running to see if it would automatically bind the alternator. It seemed to run perfectly! no squealing, no dummy light, no flaming-hot pulley. I then thought that I might have been crazy the whole time, and everything was just a bad dream. No dice. I turned off the engine to try restarting with everything attached as if normal. At restart the squealing began again. So, I'll try pulling the charge fuse when it stops raining. I dont have a 40A "charge", but I do have a 50A "BATTERY" fuse which I assume is the same. I'll also check the large lead.
If you have a Harbor Freight store around, I got a flyer from them in today's mail and on the cover is a Cen-Tech digital multi-meter (looks like the cheap one I got for a backup) on sale for $2.99 . Can't get much cheaper than that
Let me think about why starting it up w/o the lead was OK, and then when you connect the lead it continued to be OK. I would have thought if there was a short it would have drawn a huge arc when you tried to connect it up - if there is a bad short.
I have a problem with my 92 Honda accord. It runs perfect while idling no miss in the engine at all....it runs smooth. However, when I'm driving it sputters sometimes as if there's a fuel or firing problem. It will sputter for a second and all of a sudden, picks up like nothing is wrong. It's confusing because I have replaced: Spark plugs, PCV, plug wires, dist cap, dist rotor, fuel filter and air filter.
Any more ideas? Can the following items cause this: fuel pump, injectors resister, injectors, pressure regulator, distributor, coil dist module?
I thought about it for my wife's Accord as well - but it is pretty expensive (for what you get). She enjoys books on tape - but that is normally books on CD now, but occasionally might have need of the tape deck. She has an XM SkyFi2 that I need to get hooked up, so I could use the "Fake tape" with the tape deck to feed that in.
It looks like H&A (Handa) is the cheapest place to get it $183.60 or $213,82 (leather interior cars) + shipping. I found some other places with lower prices, but it turns out their price does not include the mounting kit - and when you add that the final price is higher.
and yes you use the flip up door and the large space behind it, but you get a 1/2 size pocket below the tape deck.
I think before I do this I am going to install the SkyFi2 and try the FM modulator and see how that sounds. If my wide does not complain, then I will save the extra money
Comments
Seems like it is 32psi front and 30psi rear - but it is on the sticker.
Dennis
I will be taking the car in a third time for this problem as well as for a rattle in the driver's side B pillar (new problem).
My question to all of you new Accord owners with interior rattles ... have you been able to get the problem fixed by the dealer? Did you have as frustrating an experience as I'm having? This is my first new car and my first Honda, and it hasn't been a great experience.
Your advice to jewel11's post #10165, about checking tire pressure is fine. However, your suggestion "Check it with the tires cold (have not been driven for 2 or more hours)" may not be what you wanted to say. Could you have really meant "not been driven for 2 or more MILES"?
If you don't have a tire pressure gauge, then shame on your
If you have a gauge (yeah!) but but compressor (boo) then you check them "cold" at home and then drive to the air. Check again and adjust for the difference. So if your sticker calls for 32psi and you read 30psi cold, then at the air station you now read 32psi, you air up to 34psi - that should be 32psi cold. You can re-check it when your tires indeed "cold" (air temperature).
As it warms up - which should be now since spring has spring, you may have to let air out. What was perfect at 30 degrees is too much at 70 degrees. If you have to err, err on the over inflated side at least your tire will not overheat and blow out from too little air.
Dennis
They will work so much better and you don't have to buy the whole blade assemblies.
I have a '05 Accord EX V6 with about 4500K miles on it. Great car! My first Honda.
Here's my question. I was driving about 60mph on the highway the other day and stepped on it a bit hard to accelerate. I brought the RPMs up to about 5500, way below red line. I noticed the Check Engine Light flashing. Once I eased up on the acceleration the light went off. I tried again a few minutes later and the same thing happened. I have tried again and no light. The car shifts and drives perfect.
Any ideas?
If it was the CEL you can run the car by the dealer (under warranty) or any number of auto parts places (AutoZone, Advance, etc) and they will read the codes out for free. It is strange that the light would go back off again. In any case, the fault code should still be stored in the computer even if the light is now off.
Dennis
Had the service performed on 1999 Accord for ignition switch recall, check engine light with P1166 and P1167, and engine stalling symptoms at Grace Honda in San Bruno.
1. Ignition switch - Grace Honda replaced some clip and checked for problems; none were found.
2. Check engine light - Performed diagnosis and found primary O2 sensor to be bad. Replaced the primary O2 sensor that is located in front center of the engine.
3. Engine stalling symptoms - Grace stated that the RPM was reving low during idle, so they adjusted the idle setting to 750 RPM.
I was charged $365.00(160 for O2 sensor, and 180 for labor) for the services listed above. The stalling symptoms went away with the engine idling higher at 750 RPM, and the check engine light also went away, but I am going to wait 3 or 4 more days to make sure the light does not come back.
It took them 20-minutes to diagnose the problem and 5-minute to replace the primary O2 sensor.
I am going file a complaint against Honda of San Francisco for stating that the O2 sensors were good during their initial diagnosis, eventhough, Grace Honda found the primary O2 sensor to be faulty.
I'm stumped.
Dennis
As far as I know, the regulator should be fine. There may be a problem though as the replacement is from Autozone.
I pulled everything I could from the fuse boxes (the only one I left was the ECU fuse), but still no change.
I should also note that its not just a little squealing. The pulley immediate heats up and after only a few seconds it gets very hot. It seems like once the adapter plug is seated in the alternator, the whole thing locks up.
After I read your post, I immediately "ran for my life" to the nearest Honda dealer, 2 minutes before they close, to buy windshield wiper rubber. I already inserted them in and now they work nicely like...Heaven.
FYI, this little I4 95 EX Accord is my reborn/ resurrected Honda. I have it for 10 years and 5 months. I just put in new engine, new transmission, 4 new tires, 4 new shocks/ struts, 4 new brakes, new wiper blades, new fluid, new oil, etc....Many critical parts I put in are new except the original starter, muffler, body paint, chassis, etc. I have been insane with this little...Nirvina. It will continue to run as my little street rocket for another 200K - 250K miles as it ran so beautifully 200K miles in the last 10+ years. Absolutely, during almost 11 years, it never broke down, even once. I feel like I was reborn with this "little resurrected baby" too. It has been so loyal to me.
I keep hopping back and forth between my...4 Nirvana (brand new top Accord hybrid 255 HP, 2 new Accord V6, 240 and 200 HP and this little 11 years old monster of 145 HP). I do feel like Heaven as they all have been running like street racers. I love to hear my 4 Accords' new engines humming, purring along the roads and accelerating real beautifully. While driving each Accord, my feeling is different when their transmission shift along.
I greatly appreciate your quick and valuable advice. Yesterday, I tried to replace the worn windshield wipers using the stupid Kragen wipers but could not figure it out how to do it unless "breaking things" and replacing the 2 wiper arms and rubber. Luckily, I did not break anything. Net result: I saved $15 buck using Honda wiper rubber. Of course, I did save ton of my hard-earned money when I rebuilt this little baby after my careful research and realistic plan to rebuild my beloved car. Thank you very much my True King of Honda. Have a good one. VIVRE LE HONDA, KINGS OF THE ROADS !!!
Is your charge light on when you turn the ignition to ON and does it stay on when the car is running?
How exactly does one go about testing the rectifier anyway?
Thanks for your help, I'm really stumped on this one and I'd rather not have to bend on my principles and break the bank by taking it to the dealer.
The problem with those heat shields is they can fall off at an inopportune time. It will scare the daylights out of you if it bangs around a lot when it decides to leave your car.
If you don't have a cheap meter, then get one. I use a nice Fluke meter, but I picked up a cheap (and I mean real cheap) digital meter from Harbor Frieght to keep upstairs so I didn't have to keep running to the garage when I needed a meter. It works fine, but is cheaply made (I think I gave $5 or less for it).
Do the voltage test, but I think I would measure the resistance to ground from the 12v leads on the alternator and regulator since it sure sounds like a short to ground.
If the alternator has no load it is fine, right? If you connect it up then it goes nuts? Can you disconnect the other end of the cable at the regulator? If so, does it spin OK like this? If so, then disconnect the output of the regulator and connect up the input? What does it do now? With everything pulled in the fuse box doesn't it just about have to be a cable or the parts themselves shorted out to ground?
Dennis
Is this a V-6? Maybe it was the TCS light you saw (traction control system) and not the CEL?
Dennis
The rectifier is inside the alternator. It contains the diodes. To test those diodes, you have to de-assemble the alternator and check for their continuity.
After reading your original post, it sounds like the bearings in the alternator are going bad. You didn't hear the squealing noise when you unpluged the
alternator connector because there is no load put on the alternator. You removed the control circuit.
If you recently bought it, bring it back for another one.
Let us know how it goes.
I must note that this has happened with two alternators. The original was a NipponDenso, which was fine until I changed the Tbelt. I thought that it might have been getting weak, as it would bog the engine when I would roll up windows and so forth. So, when it started squealing like that after I put it back, I ASSUMED that the bearings had finally gone out. So, I went and got a replacement and its doing the exact same thing.
Oh yeah, ALSO, when I drove the car home after the Tbelt replacement, with a slack alt. belt and the excessive squealing from the original alt. (which I ASSUMED was the bearings), the squealing suddenly stopped after I let off the accelerator to coast down a hill. The car ran great for about 5 miles. However, the alt. belt came off on the interstate and torn up the lower Tbelt cover (which is another mess I have to take care of...).
Thanks again guys, I need all the input I can get... Right now Im trying to think of anything that may have happened during the Tbelt replacement, because everything was OK before (with the exception of engine bogging with additional accessories).
I finally met with the dealer rep today. She took my two week old car out for a drive. First she acted like she didn’t see anything wrong. Finally, she admitted to seeing the distortion. Then she dragged out another 2005 EX V6 Sedan that also had similar distortion in the windshield. She said that it was proof that the distortion was just a normal characteristic of the vehicle. I explained to her that I had driven a V6 EX with about half the distortion and that I had driven an LX with almost none. I also explained that I had parked my friends 2003 LX next to mine and done a side by side comparison. His had much less distortion. She said that the LXs didn’t count because the LX is a different car with a different windshield. This strikes me as odd because it is the same exact body style! Then she said that she would not replace it because there was no way to guarantee a better windshield and that she could not measure any improvement if there was some.
This windshield is unacceptable. Under certain conditions it is disorienting and dangerous. Just because she dragged out another Accord with a bad windshield doesn’t make a distorting windshield acceptable. What options do I have now?
between the two pulleys?
I hope you did adjust the alt belt after replacing it.
The water pump is driven by the balance shaft belt. I did adjust the tension on the drive belt.
I really think that its just a matter of finding where the short or bad ground is now.
You could replace the windshield yourself. We got the windshield replaced in our 1999 Accord for $200.
You could complain to the factory rep's boss.
You could make the dealership so miserable they will replace it for free. One guy in our area was unhappy with his new car, so he parked it in front of the dealer with a big paper-mache lemon on the top. You could try someting similar to make people aware that your new Honda is unacceptable. Yes, I'm serious.
To answer some questions (I hope this helps...): the alternator seems fine with a load. It apparently is charging the battery (no dummy light) and the pulley turns fine... UNTIL I seat the four-prong, green plug into the regulator in the alternator. THEN it goes nuts.
I'm a little confused on what you mean by disconnecting the regulator output and connecting the input. The regulator is built into the alternator, so do you mean I should disassemble the alt to check this out?
ALSO, this model is apparently a wierd mix of the 91 and 92 accord. I've had trouble with a few little things, like different key blanks and so forth. This is a 91 Accord Wagon EX (if that makes any difference).
Thanks a lot, again. I really dont want to go to the dealer or a mechanic, but I'm at a loss...
Has anyone installed the Honda tape player? Are you happy with it?
It appears to install in the storeage space in front of the shifter. When installed does one lose the flip up door?
Does Honda require a routine change of timing belt/water pump? I know 4 cylinders require changing timing belts, but I do not know if v6's are the same.
I wonder if I can find one online? time passes....
I did for a 86-89, I wonder how similar that is? I did not realize the regulator was built in. You really need a meter - bad, along with a shop manual. You need to know what the voltage is and various places and you need to check for shorts.
It looks like there is a large (heavy) cable that connects the alternator to the under hood fuse/relay box and the 40a #21 fuse. Then the other connector goes from the alternator various places - one is the under hood box and the #8 10 fuse, two other wires go the dash fuse box - one via the "charge warning light" and the other direct. Looks like the other goes to the PGMFI module (if equipped).
I am guessing that one of the first three is shorted to ground. If the wire carrying the juice to the under dash fuse box was shorted, then nothing would work off of that (like the radio, interior lights, etc). Now if something connected to the under dash box was shorted then it would load up when you put that connector in. But you said you pulled all the relays and fuses from it, right? With the regulator plug out, those things don't work now - right?
The other wire is just a shunt to light up the light - I suppose that could be shorted, but I think that would make the light come up (12v to one side of the light and the other side shorted = light). Actually, now that I think about it - this should not be the problem.
So that leaves the wire going to the under hood box and fuse #8. That is supposed to be a 10a fuse and would blow if the problem were behind that - so it must be in front of that?
Another thing I thought of is to make sure all the fuses are the proper size. Someone could have put a huge fuse in by mistake or because a lesser one would blow out.
An inductive pickup ammeter would be really nice to have as well, you could measure the current in various wires without disconnecting them. This would cost a bit more than a $5-8 Harbor Freight meter, though. Maybe one of the auto parts places has one you could rent for a few bucks?
Dennis
Note that starting with the 2003 model year, 4 cylinder Accords use a timing chain which requires no service--the V6 still uses a belt........Richard
I found a clamp-on ammeter at Radioshack, fairly inexpensive, but Im not sure if itll work. These are the specs:
• AC and DC voltage ranges: 15V/150V/500V
• AC current: 3A/15A/30A
• DC current: 150mA
• Resistance: 10k/100k, ohms
What do you think?
How large are the "small" wires? They may not actually carry any current - I may have been mistaken.
Pull the 40 amp fuse and connect everything back up. See if the car starts - if so is the belt slipping and the pulley getting hot ? If so then the alternator is bad.
Or, just pull the big cable off the alternator and do the same test. If the belt slips and pulley gets hot then the alternator is bad.
Dennis
Thats just a guess. They are pretty small though, they couldn't carry too much current.
Again, thanks!
PS. I almost forgot... Last night I played around with the alt without the drive belt on. When the regulator plug is seated, the pulley does not completely "lock up". Its more intermittent. I dont know if its just where the magnetic field is weak and then strong, but as I turned the pulley, there were noticeable moments of hesitation followed by free movement, followed by hesitiation, etc, etc.....
If we think about it - if something is drawing enough current in your car to bind up the alternator then if you stop the car and turn the key on it would drain your battery flat in no time. Right? It would have to - since most everything in the car "runs" no matter if the car is running or not. You could leave the alternator belt off and run the car if you wanted and if there was a huge short it would drain the battery in no time. But it does not, right?
What is happening ( I realize now) is that without the small connector in place you have no juice in the "field coil" so the alternator is NEVER producing anything at all! It you had just a cheap meter you would measure that nothing is coming out of it at all - with the big lead loose you would see 0v or so between that terminal on the alternator and ground.
So it spins freely without the field on it. When you connect up the field then it starts producing and it probably has an internal short that is drawing the current and binding it up.
It is does not bind with the small terminal in place and the big lead off (and I am thinking it will) then connect back up the big lead and pull the 40a fuse from the under hood fuse box (should be marked "charging fuse" or something like that). Then if it still binds up it has to be in the large cable - but I don't see how that would not drain the battery with the key on.
With the big lead off and the small connector on if you start and run you can check the output at the big terminal with a DC voltmeter. If the alternator is shorted internal you will not get anything like 14-16v out that terminal.
I found this great explanation on the web so you can see what I am talking about:
http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm
As shown in the first schematic if the "diode trio" were shorted to ground the battery would not drain but the alternator would bind up sending high current to ground.
Dennis
I got a multimeter (cheap) and did a little checking before it started raining.
I started by disconnecting the large lead, leaving the small connector attached. The pulley spun freely and it was actually putting out about 15 volts (from what I could tell from the analog meter...).
Also, I tried placing the lead back on the terminal while it was running to see if it would automatically bind the alternator. It seemed to run perfectly! no squealing, no dummy light, no flaming-hot pulley.
I then thought that I might have been crazy the whole time, and everything was just a bad dream.
No dice. I turned off the engine to try restarting with everything attached as if normal. At restart the squealing began again.
So, I'll try pulling the charge fuse when it stops raining. I dont have a 40A "charge", but I do have a 50A "BATTERY" fuse which I assume is the same.
I'll also check the large lead.
Let me think about why starting it up w/o the lead was OK, and then when you connect the lead it continued to be OK. I would have thought if there was a short it would have drawn a huge arc when you tried to connect it up - if there is a bad short.
Dennis
Any more ideas? Can the following items cause this: fuel pump, injectors resister, injectors, pressure regulator, distributor, coil dist module?
Thanks
It looks like H&A (Handa) is the cheapest place to get it $183.60 or $213,82 (leather interior cars) + shipping. I found some other places with lower prices, but it turns out their price does not include the mounting kit - and when you add that the final price is higher.
The install instructions are here:
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord/04audio.pdf
and yes you use the flip up door and the large space behind it, but you get a 1/2 size pocket below the tape deck.
I think before I do this I am going to install the SkyFi2 and try the FM modulator and see how that sounds. If my wide does not complain, then I will save the extra money
Dennis