it seems. I checked the NHTSA site, and this TSB (SB614081) is not listed for 2001 models of the Accord or Odyssey. Although it has only been out for 7 months, I have yet to hear a complaint about the "reverse bang" for a 2001 Odyssey. Hopefully Honda has worked the problem out of the new transmissions (as I own a 2001 Odyssey EX).
dc_sports_rule, Thanks for the info. It hasn't happened to me but I'll watch for it.
isell, Now, now, you know what he meant! Actually, the black paint chips falling off is a Honda "Feature". Drive just in front of a Solara while going over some good potholes to "enhance" the paint surface of the Toy Solara.
Last night I pulled up behind a 98-99 Accord V-6 coupe at a light. In my headlights I could see that some black paint had chipped off the left side muffler.
Now, I know what dc sports was talking about.
Hardly a big deal....but..a quick spray with a heat resistant should fix things up.
I have a 1991 Accord LX Automatic. I purchased it last summer with 91,000 miles. This car was pampered by the dealership as it was thier coorporate car for their attorneys' use while she served the surrounding dealerships owned by the Lapointe family. Soon after I purchased it, I started to use Dextron III trans. fluid. I noticed nothing irregular about the Dextron's performance, but was curious as to the posts regarding maintaining Honda trans. using their fluid and the Honda fluid being superior to others. Let me say that in my opinion it is. Today I used it and I noticed immediately a smoother running and shifting automobile. The downshifts are not noticeable anymore, before they were. The shift from 3 to 4 is smooth as glass. I will never use anything other than the Honda ATF-Z1 tranny. fluid from now on.
ahughes2, Honda fluid is not "superior" to Dexron, it is the correct fluid for your vehicle application. Automatic transmission fluids are formulated with varying friction characteristics to suit particular mechanical designs, friction material composition, and fluid pressures, as specified by the transmission/transaxle designers. There is no universal automatic transmission fluid. P.S. There's no "t" in Dexron.
Alcan thank you for the spell check and with the formulation requirements engineers develop which leads to the the various fluids on the market for various makes and models. With regards to Dexron being compared to Honda ATF-Z1, the owners manual refers to the Dexron II as the replacement fluid. That being said, it is recommended by the manufacturer. When I use that fluid, Dexron III due to II not available any more, compared to the Honda fluid, based on the performance results, the Honda fluid is far superior in that case.
I'm not sure you can make that statement unless you test two new Hondas side by side. One with ATF-Z1 and the other with Dexron. Just pray that both units are identical or perform the test on a mass basis, the way Consumer Reports did with the oil tests.
I have a 98 Honda Accord , 4 cyl engine. Antifreeze is leaking am rear of engine. The leak is from what may be a freeze plug, not sure what to call this area , but it has threads as if it will accept a bolt or threaded plug. Any suggestions on this problem . Thanks
Anyone have any thoughts on a used Honda AccordLX 1992, auto,loaded with only 28K miles? The dealer is asking $7995.00. Any known problems with a vehicle this old? I also am looking at a Honda Accord LX 1997, auto, 42K miles for only $9000.00. Help! Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated! I really need a dependable car! Thanks! Leslie
In response to Leslie's post I would also go for the 97. The 92 uses R-12 Freon in the A/C system which is very expensive since it has been discontinued and if you run into problems they will be costly. The 92 seems like it has too few miles on it. Cars can develop problems if they aren't driven enough. The 97 uses the new ozone friendly non-CFC refrigerant and it should work for many years to come. The one problem with the 95-97 Accords was that the balancer shaft oil seal pops out and all the oil comes pouring out near the timing belt cover, which could potentially ruin the motor. There is a qiuet recall and they are replacing the seal and putting a retainer over the seal so it won't pop out. Make sure it has been done or have the dealer inspect it before you buy it. Also check to make sure the car has not been in any accidents. This 97 sounds like a very good deal as long as everything checks out. My family has owned 7 Hondas and we have been very happy with their reliability and quality. Hope this helps.
In addition to my earlier post, the 90-93 Accords had a major distributor bearing problem. If the bearing fails the car will either crank but fail to start or will set off the check engine light and make a squealling noise. The fix is to replace the entire distributor which could be around $600 installed. If you decide to buy the 92 make sure the dealer has checked the distributor to make sure it works properly. Also, Honda may sell you the 97 as a certified used car which means it comes with a warranty. Just trying to cover all the bases.
You can use either fluid without any long term affects as long as you change it, however as ahughes2 has said the Honda fluid is made differantly than the dexron and will make the transmision perform better. We have used both for years depending on the customers wants or needs and the transmissions with the Honda fluid perform better and stay cleaner longer.
Hi Auburn63... sounds like you're the man to ask. I have a 1995 Honda accord EX 4cyl auto. I bought this car new and have always had it maintenanced on schedule. Now the car has 125K miles and runs great except for a wierd engine shutter that you can feel once in a while while the car sits in "D" at a light. Sometimes its light and sometimes is bad.. almost like the car is choking. It's very disturbing and worries me. I have tried many things such as high octane gas, fuel injector additive, spark plug wire replacement etc... I even took it to the dealer but they were goin to charge me 35/hr till they found the problem. Has anybody encountered this? Any feedback would be helpful. Thanks.
I've had my honda accord ex 4 cylinder for about 2 months and it has no pep when acclerating. What can I do to improve performance.? I realize this is no v-6 but I can't have every granny on the road kicking dust in my face. Will this performance improve.
In response to Drewster, I have a 93 Accord EX auto with 136,000 miles on it and am having the same problem. I had the front and rear motor mounts replaced but that has not helped. My car idles around 700 rpm and sometimes the steering wheel will shake and I will feel a vibration in my seat too. If I bump the idle up to around 800 rpm it is better. I did a tune-up with new plugs, wires, and cap and rotor and the problem remains. On another Honda message board I remember reading that the EGR passages could be clogged up but I haven't tried that yet. Hope we can find a fix for this because it is very annoying.
Mwcarlso & Pblevine, I just had the major service done which also included replacing the spark plugs, cap and rotor.. etc.. I thought that that may also fix the problem but it wasn't. The car runs great.. just annoying when you come to a stop and it feels like it's choking or coughing. It's a variable shutter that is on and off. Please help.. any other ideas?
I just bought a 2001 Accord EX sedan, and the door was dented while it was parked in a parking lot. Here's a picture:
I'm totally new at this, so I'm not sure what to do. Is this covered under comp or collision? How much does the repair for something like this usually run? Should I repair it right away or can it develop into a bigger problem if I leave it alone (e.g., rust)? Should I take it to the dealer or go find a body shop? If anyone out there has any advice for me, I'd appreciate it.
Sorry about the dent! I hope the person who did it slips on a banana peel.
Yes, this should be covered under your comp/collision, but you may have a deductible of either $250 or $500, so you won't get that. It looks like about a $600 repair since they will have to paint the entire door (to wrap the paint around an edge...you can't blend paints like in the old days). So it looks like you will be out the deductible amount.
You don't have to get it fixed right now, since any rust would be superficial, if at all, but since it is a new car, it would be nice to have it done. Also, damage like this lowers your resale or trade-in value if you don't repair it.
I own a 98 Honda Accord LX. I purchased it used and have had the car now for 5 months. Within the last month I started hearing a pop whenever I turned the steering wheel 90 degrees to the left and to the right. The noise is located within the steering column. What could this be? Has anyone else had this problem? All help is appreciated!
In response to the message #1031, I would talk to friends and co-workers and see what body shops they recommend. Also talk to the dealer and see what body shop they take their cars to. From the picture, it looks as though the paint is still ok besides the scratches under the molding. If the scratches aren't underneath the clear coat then it may not need to be repainted. The body shop can take the dents out of the door, buff out the scratchs out, and replace the door molding. I would try every way possible to not have the door repainted because factory paint is always better. If the door must be repainted the paint should match well since the car is new. I would say that it will cost anywhere between $500-$800 to fix but comprehensive should cover it as long as you pay your deductible. Good luck to you and curse the jerk who obviously doesn't care about other people's property.
1500k when I started having a problem. The dealer replaced the ECU it almost controls everything i.e. rpm,a.c.,transmission etc. Actual cost almost $800.00 I am lucky the problem revealed while the car is still under warranty. I'm thinking getting an extended warranty bec. it might happened again. The car is only had 2700miles. Is there any body who had the same problem I had??
I recently had my timing belt replaced on my 90 Accord (197,000 miles). Since I've gotten the car back I've noticed a very subtle engine noise.. which seems to be most prominent at about 2000 rpm's... The noise sounds like either something requires lubrication or possibly that the belt requires additional tension.. I believe there are 2 internal belts including the timing belt that were changed... Any ideas..??? I thought I had read that there was some type of external tension adjuster for the Accord.. does any one know if this is true.. and if so .. is it something simple to adjust ?? Other than the noise.. the car is running fine with the new belts... thanks...
I have read some posts here about the shudder problem. Auburn63 has been a help here I see.
I have a 95 EX with the 4cyl. VTEC. 138,000 miles. I just changed the oil and had the timing servicing done last month.
I have just noticed (last week or two) a slight hesitation occuring around 40mph. It is hard to describe. Kind of a rough feel. Like it is not getting enough fuel or air. I did replace the air filter. It will go away as I accelerate. Does not seem to happen at higher speeds. I really don't think it is searching for a gear, like tranny slippage. Does this sound like a fuel mixture related problem?
I noticed some talk of the EGR assembly. Could this be a solution?
Does this sound like a transmission problem?
I hate going to the dealer and other shops due to pressure to have all kinds of work done. I just got the car and do not need more repair bills. So I am trying to diagnose before getting into something.
I've experienced some hesitation problems in the past at low speed as well.. In my case its usually associated with the cap and rotor.. you may want to remove the cap and inspect it... you can usually see a small build up of carbon on the terminals on the underside... nothing major, but usually just enough to start causing a slight roughness/hesitation when moving from a stop... Does your car seem to idle smoothly ??
This problem has been documented before (message #s 255 and 275). My engine has died several times (before pulling into a parking spot; when I come to a stop sign; after driving only 2 blocks). I took it to a Honda mechanic only to be advised to get the 90k mile and timing belt service done. They were confident my problem would be resolved. Right! Less than 24 hours later, the problem resurfaced! The mechanic wasn't able to "replicate" the problem; my car is now back in the shop, sitting idle, to see if the engine will die. I doubt it, since the car usually must be in motion before it stalls.
If anyone has experienced this and been able to come up with the solution, please reply! This is becoming an expensive problem!
Sorry I haven't been able to check the board much but I have been on vacation. So anyhow if your vibration happens at idle when in gear then a tight valve in the engine, a vacuum leak or maybe even a weak slightly dirty injector could be the causes. However I would check the front (dog bone like) motor mount first. I see these go bad and cause all the vibrations from the motor to enter the frame and into you.If that is fine then maybesee if they adjusted the valves durring your service.The EGR vibration happens on light acceleration around 1800 rpms so unles this is when you feel your problem I wouldnt think that would be it.Good luck and if this is not clear enough then write back with more info and I or someone else can try again.
mlc5, If the noise you hear is like a knocking /rapping sound then one of the belts may be to loose. If the noise is more of a whine then the belts maybe to tight and although there is an external adjuster they dont work as well as they should so be carefull if you are going to try this your self.
myers11, If your vibration happens in around the 1800 rpm mark on slight accel then you probably do have an EGR problem. We have just recently started seeing the 94-97 generation accords having this problem so it is possible.
maggiet5, I have seen a few main relays cause your problem as well as bad distributors. Do you hear any noises like squeaking or chirpping? If so these would lead me towards the distributor if not then maybe it would be worth the gamble to put in a main fuel relay and try that. Nothing else is all that common that I can think of. Good luck
In reponse to auburn63 (message #1040) my 93 Accord has a vibration at idle and I have had the dealer adjust the valves and replace the front and rear motor mounts last summer and this didn't solve the problem. I also sprayed combustion chamber cleaner in the throttle body to get the carbon out. How would I go about checking for vacuum leaks? I was under the impression that a vacuum leak would cause the idle to surge. My idle stays constant around 700 rpm which is where I feel the vibration. If my idle goes up to 800 rpm or greater the vibration is lessened. Sometimes the vibration at 700 rpm is minor but other times it is more severe and I don't know what would cause it to do this. The dealer said they can find nothing else wrong but I don't think they are looking very hard. Any other suggestions. Thanks.
Today, I brought my Accord to a second mechanic who spent only 10 minutes pinpointing the reason my engine randomly dies when the car is coming to or is at a complete stop. He started and turned off the engine numerous times, until it would crank but not ignite. The problem is as auburn63 states in #1041: a bad distributor. I did some research and '93 Accord engines are infamous for distributor failures. My mechanic said the fuel relay and fuel pump were less likely although possible causes if the engine failed to even crank.
Replacing the distributor and igniter (I was advised to take care of the latter too since it relates to the former) repair took a few hours. Honda parts were used.
Auburn63: thank you for your timely and helpful response!
maggiet5, I hope that the distributor works out for you as 90-93 did have problems with them, however the diagnosis procedure that he did would also be a known way of verifying that the main fuel relay is bad. The fuel pumps themselves very rarely go bad but the main relay(main fuel relay)goes bad often in those years. It will cause no spark and no power to the fuel pump or just one symptom or the other due to the fact that it controls power to the computer.But hopefully yours was the distributor and you have no further problems..Good luck.
mwcarlso, On the rear motor mount there is a vacuum actuator maybe the linkage for that has fallen off. Those rear engine mounts have been a constant source of vibration once they get some time and mileage on them.Other than that items such as aftermarket radiators not sitting correct in there position.If all it takes is 800rpms to feel better then bump up the idle as it will not hurt anything as long as you stay below 950 rpms.Sometimes vibrations are just there due to the age of the car and parts in it. Good luck.
Does anyone else think that the Accord's transmission is not that smooth?
I have a 2000 Accord EX-V6 coupe which I purchased in June '00. It is my first Honda (my previous car was a '91 Grand Am) and am very pleased with it so far. The only thing that bugs me about it is the transmission.
Being new to Honda, I'm not sure if I have a tranny problem or a normal Honda tranny. The transmission in my Grand Am seemed a lot smoother, you could hardly feel the shifts. In my Accord, the shifts seem harsh at times. Mostly this happens at lower speeds.
I've heard a lot about tranny probs in the 2000 Accord. Should I take the car to my dealer and have them look at it for my peace of mind, or, should I not worry about it because Honda's tranny's aren't as smooth as GM's? Most every review that I read about the Accord praises its transmission. Maybe I'm just too picky, I don't know.
If the only compaint you have is that the transmission is not as smooth as GM's, then stay away from the dealer...there is no comparing the smoothness of GM's automatics, with ANYone else in the business. It is their one claim to fame.
There has been a lot of arm-waving and fretting online from owners of V6s over the batch of failed parts that plagued a small group of cars produced early in the '00 model year. The symptoms had to do with a loud, unmistakeable clunking noise when the car was put in reverse, and was traced to a group of bad parts from a particular supplier in Japan. There also were a few complaints about lockup torque converters not working properly. Beyond that, I am unaware of any reason for the paranoia that seems to be out there about V6 automatics. My '01 is young yet, but is trouble-free and a wonderful car to drive. Smooth as any GM ? Nope...but you could not bribe me to trade this car for anything in GM's lineup, at any price.
Auburn: Can you help put this continuing rumor to rest?
Jcrt has it about right. The one thing that almost all first time Honda owners complain about is the shift quality of the trans. This has been that way since I started with Honda back in 83. They tend to shift on the positive side which is a bit harsh but good for the long life of the trans.However if you feel like your trans is not right there is no harm in having it looked at but I do not think there will be anything wrong with it. I have seen alot more complaints on here about transmissions than I do at work and I see very few transmissions that are bad. So I think you just probably need to get used to yours.Good luck
I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on the following - apologies in advance for not being more specific.
I've got a 2000 DX Manual with about 13K miles. Lately, I've noticed that the clutch has gotten really picky - meaning I need to really baby it and give it extra gas, especially starting from a stop in first. Otherwise, the engine studders a little and the car jerks a bit as I start to move forward. It's less noticable shifting into higher gears although I have noticed that it's a little picky going into higher gears as well, even if I've accelerated to higher than necessary RPMs (3000+).
The clutch has 13K relatively 'kind' miles on it and I wouldn't expect it to be wearing out. Plus, it doesn't feel like the clutch plate is slipping exactly, just that it has gotten much more difficult to smoothly re-engage the clutch after shifting into each gear. The car is absolutely no fun to drive anymore.
Any help would be appreciated,
BTW - with the car obviously under warranty, I will be bringing this to the dealers attention. It's just that I've had trouble with somewhat vague problems like this one in the past.
Need help from anyone that has a leaking transmission and got it fixed at the end? It will be the 4th time that car be brought back to dealer tomorrow. I'm really tired of doing so.
The leakage seems occurs on the bottom of transmissiom housing between the gap of two half housings, at least it appears so.
Could it be the gasket between the 2 half housings is defective?
silver, Sounds as if the flywheel may have some areas that are untrue. Usally this is caused by heating up the flywheel. The other possibility may be the clutch plate springs either way you may be able to get the dealer to cover it since you have low miles. Clutch's are kind of like brakes and are considered a wearable item therefore are not covered usally. However you should be ok but don't wait too long to bring iit in and have it checked.Good luck
gye, I haven't seen any yet but I doubt that it would be the case half, although anything is possible. What have they done in the other attempts? Have they done a front trans seal yet? Or even a shift shaft seal? They have been the problems in the past.
Comments
Thus far, I've had no problems.
Did you suggest that people look at the exhaust for black chunks of the transmission??
Naw...I've got to go back and re read your post!
Right??
Thanks for the info. It hasn't happened to me but I'll watch for it.
isell,
Now, now, you know what he meant! Actually, the black paint chips falling off is a Honda "Feature". Drive just in front of a Solara while going over some good potholes to "enhance" the paint surface of the Toy Solara.
Now, I know what dc sports was talking about.
Hardly a big deal....but..a quick spray with a heat resistant should fix things up.
Soon after I purchased it, I started to use Dextron III trans. fluid. I noticed nothing irregular about the Dextron's performance, but was curious as to the posts regarding maintaining Honda trans. using their fluid and the Honda fluid being superior to others. Let me say that in my opinion it is. Today I used it and I noticed immediately a smoother running and shifting automobile. The downshifts are not noticeable anymore, before they were. The shift from 3 to 4 is smooth as glass. I will never use anything other than the Honda ATF-Z1 tranny. fluid from now on.
P.S. There's no "t" in Dexron.
With regards to Dexron being compared to Honda ATF-Z1, the owners manual refers to the Dexron II as the replacement fluid.
That being said, it is recommended by the manufacturer. When I use that fluid, Dexron III due to II not available any more, compared to the Honda fluid, based on the performance results, the Honda fluid is far superior in that case.
Hardly a reason not to buy a 90-93.
The oil seal problem, again, affect very few cars but they can pop out. Honda is fixing these for free.
Both great cars, take your pick!
What can I do to improve performance.? I realize this is no v-6 but I can't have every granny
on the road kicking dust in my face. Will this performance improve.
does it feel that way when you first put it in reverse too? thats what my truck did when it had a vacuum leak.
I'm totally new at this, so I'm not sure what to do. Is this covered under comp or collision? How much does the repair for something like this usually run? Should I repair it right away or can it develop into a bigger problem if I leave it alone (e.g., rust)? Should I take it to the dealer or go find a body shop? If anyone out there has any advice for me, I'd appreciate it.
- Tom
Yes, this should be covered under your comp/collision, but you may have a deductible of either $250 or $500, so you won't get that. It looks like about a $600 repair since they will have to paint the entire door (to wrap the paint around an edge...you can't blend paints like in the old days). So it looks like you will be out the deductible amount.
You don't have to get it fixed right now, since any rust would be superficial, if at all, but since it is a new car, it would be nice to have it done. Also, damage like this lowers your resale or trade-in value if you don't repair it.
paint is always better. If the door must be repainted the paint should match well since the car is new. I would say that it will cost anywhere between $500-$800 to fix but comprehensive should cover it as long as you pay your deductible. Good luck to you and curse the jerk who obviously doesn't care about other people's property.
I recently had my timing belt replaced on my 90 Accord (197,000 miles). Since I've gotten the car back I've noticed a very subtle engine noise.. which seems to be most prominent at about 2000 rpm's... The noise sounds like either something requires lubrication or possibly that the belt requires additional tension.. I believe there are 2 internal belts including the timing belt that were changed...
Any ideas..??? I thought I had read that there was some type of external tension adjuster for the Accord.. does any one know if this is true.. and if so .. is it something simple to adjust ??
Other than the noise.. the car is running fine with the new belts... thanks...
I have read some posts here about the shudder problem. Auburn63 has been a help here I see.
I have a 95 EX with the 4cyl. VTEC. 138,000 miles. I just changed the oil and had the timing servicing done last month.
I have just noticed (last week or two) a slight hesitation occuring around 40mph. It is hard to describe. Kind of a rough feel. Like it is not getting enough fuel or air. I did replace the air filter. It will go away as I accelerate. Does not seem to happen at higher speeds. I really don't think it is searching for a gear, like tranny slippage. Does this sound like a fuel mixture related problem?
I noticed some talk of the EGR assembly. Could this be a solution?
Does this sound like a transmission problem?
I hate going to the dealer and other shops due to pressure to have all kinds of work done. I just got the car and do not need more repair bills. So I am trying to diagnose before getting into something.
Thanks.
myers11
If anyone has experienced this and been able to come up with the solution, please reply! This is becoming an expensive problem!
If the noise you hear is like a knocking /rapping sound then one of the belts may be to loose.
If the noise is more of a whine then the belts maybe to tight and although there is an external adjuster they dont work as well as they should so be carefull if you are going to try this your self.
myers11,
If your vibration happens in around the 1800 rpm mark on slight accel then you probably do have an EGR problem. We have just recently started seeing the 94-97 generation accords having this problem so it is possible.
maggiet5,
I have seen a few main relays cause your problem as well as bad distributors. Do you hear any noises like squeaking or chirpping? If so these would lead me towards the distributor if not then maybe it would be worth the gamble to put in a main fuel relay and try that. Nothing else is all that common that I can think of. Good luck
Replacing the distributor and igniter (I was advised to take care of the latter too since it relates to the former) repair took a few hours. Honda parts were used.
Auburn63: thank you for your timely and helpful response!
Anyone know how to re-program a keyless enrtry remote?
Thanks in advance,
Rich
I hope that the distributor works out for you as 90-93 did have problems with them, however the diagnosis procedure that he did would also be a known way of verifying that the main fuel relay is bad. The fuel pumps themselves very rarely go bad but the main relay(main fuel relay)goes bad often in those years. It will cause no spark and no power to the fuel pump or just one symptom or the other due to the fact that it controls power to the computer.But hopefully yours was the distributor and you have no further problems..Good luck.
mwcarlso,
On the rear motor mount there is a vacuum actuator maybe the linkage for that has fallen off. Those rear engine mounts have been a constant source of vibration once they get some time and mileage on them.Other than that items such as aftermarket radiators not sitting correct in there position.If all it takes is 800rpms to feel better then bump up the idle as it will not hurt anything as long as you stay below 950 rpms.Sometimes vibrations are just there due to the age of the car and parts in it. Good luck.
I have a 2000 Accord EX-V6 coupe which I purchased in June '00. It is my first Honda (my previous car was a '91 Grand Am) and am very pleased with it so far. The only thing that bugs me about it is the transmission.
Being new to Honda, I'm not sure if I have a tranny problem or a normal Honda tranny. The transmission in my Grand Am seemed a lot smoother, you could hardly feel the shifts. In my Accord, the shifts seem harsh at times. Mostly this happens at lower speeds.
I've heard a lot about tranny probs in the 2000 Accord. Should I take the car to my dealer and have them look at it for my peace of mind, or, should I not worry about it because Honda's tranny's aren't as smooth as GM's? Most every review that I read about the Accord praises its transmission. Maybe I'm just too picky, I don't know.
Any comments on this topic will be appreciated.
There has been a lot of arm-waving and fretting online from owners of V6s over the batch of failed parts that plagued a small group of cars produced early in the '00 model year. The symptoms had to do with a loud, unmistakeable clunking noise when the car was put in reverse, and was traced to a group of bad parts from a particular supplier in Japan. There also were a few complaints about lockup torque converters not working properly. Beyond that, I am unaware of any reason for the paranoia that seems to be out there about V6 automatics. My '01 is young yet, but is trouble-free and a wonderful car to drive. Smooth as any GM ? Nope...but you could not bribe me to trade this car for anything in GM's lineup, at any price.
Auburn: Can you help put this continuing rumor to rest?
The one thing that almost all first time Honda owners complain about is the shift quality of the trans. This has been that way since I started with Honda back in 83. They tend to shift on the positive side which is a bit harsh but good for the long life of the trans.However if you feel like your trans is not right there is no harm in having it looked at but I do not think there will be anything wrong with it. I have seen alot more complaints on here about transmissions than I do at work and I see very few transmissions that are bad. So I think you just probably need to get used to yours.Good luck
I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on the following - apologies in advance for not being more specific.
I've got a 2000 DX Manual with about 13K miles. Lately, I've noticed that the clutch has gotten really picky - meaning I need to really baby it and give it extra gas, especially starting from a stop in first. Otherwise, the engine studders a little and the car jerks a bit as I start to move forward. It's less noticable shifting into higher gears although I have noticed that it's a little picky going into higher gears as well, even if I've accelerated to higher than necessary RPMs (3000+).
The clutch has 13K relatively 'kind' miles on it and I wouldn't expect it to be wearing out. Plus, it doesn't feel like the clutch plate is slipping exactly, just that it has gotten much more difficult to smoothly re-engage the clutch after shifting into each gear. The car is absolutely no fun to drive anymore.
Any help would be appreciated,
BTW - with the car obviously under warranty, I will be bringing this to the dealers attention. It's just that I've had trouble with somewhat vague problems like this one in the past.
The leakage seems occurs on the bottom of transmissiom housing between the gap of two half housings, at least it appears so.
Could it be the gasket between the 2 half housings is defective?
Thanks for any of your input?
Sounds as if the flywheel may have some areas that are untrue. Usally this is caused by heating up the flywheel. The other possibility may be the clutch plate springs either way you may be able to get the dealer to cover it since you have low miles. Clutch's are kind of like brakes and are considered a wearable item therefore are not covered usally. However you should be ok but don't wait too long to bring iit in and have it checked.Good luck
gye,
I haven't seen any yet but I doubt that it would be the case half, although anything is possible. What have they done in the other attempts? Have they done a front trans seal yet? Or even a shift shaft seal? They have been the problems in the past.