To answer your e-mail query, I am unhappy to report that I am experiencing a no start issue with my now one year old Honda Accord LX..
My 2004 Accord LX (purchased in 09/04) has not started on four separate occasions within a two week period. One of these no start events really created a safety hazard as I was stuck in NYC rush hour traffic with a relatively new car that would not start with no apparent explanation or cause.
As soon as I experienced the no start twice, I went straight to the closest Honda dealer for repair under the warranty.
I have since brought my 2004 Accord LX 5 speed sedan with 15,000 miles to several area Honda dealers and I have contacted AHMC Customer Service several times...
When dealing with AHMC, I received no real assistance from the reps. I went onto the Internet and found the contact information for AHMC Corporate in Torrance, CA. I left messages for the Customer Service Manager, and the Vice-President of Customer Service.
I received a more attentive return call from the Customer Service Supervisor, Doug Copeland. His contact number is 1-800-999-1009.
The first service team at D&C Honda in Tenafly, NJ thought that I was not engaging the clutch. Perhaps my all-weather floor mats were in the way of the clutch. Unlikely, as I had driven the car and engaged the clutch properly for the first ten months of driving with the same mats in place.
This is my third Honda and the sixth 5 speed manual transmission car I have owned and driven. I owned the identical model Honda Accord form 1997-2000. The only repair for the 97 Accord LX needed was a replacement of the driver's side window motor at 45,000 miles after 3 years of use.
I took the 2004 car back to D&C again two days later so they could keep the car for a day to duplicate the no start condition, run diagnostic tests, and repair the problem. As they could not duplicate the no start condition, they did no diagnostic tests for the electrical, starter, or ignition systems.
They then offered that a chip or battery in the key may defective. Apparently, if you have multiple keys with computerized chips together then your car may not be able to read the codes sent to the ignition switch.
I do not have multiple computerized keys on my key ring, just the one for the 2004 Honda Accord.
The only point is that a car that will not start is not reliable and potentially dangerous.
I talked with AHMC Customer Service Supervisor and he sent me to another Honda dealer's service department at Mahwah Honda.
This second Honda service team only checked the battery and returned the car to me.
All Honda parties, especially AHMC, said there were just too may codes that may cause the car not to start so they could not run any tests. The AHMC rep said that the car not starting was not his issue and reprimanded me that I was being uncooperative.
I asked them what their service technicians would do to test a car that did not start when it was brought to a dealer for repair, and they just said that there are too may computer codes to do any testing.
In my experience, the Customer Service reps at AHMC were of no assistance whatsoever...the rep blamed me and refused to provide a name or extension for his supervisor. It is absurd that a customer service rep would not know how to contact his direct boss...after all, he has to report to someone at AHMC. I spent time doing research and found the AMHC contact information on another Internet site.
As these two Honda dealers were unable to duplicate the problem, no attempt at any diagnostic intervention or tests; starter; ignition, main relay; electrical system were run.
You may want to research these potential causes and ask if there are any TSBs associated with the no start issue for your vehicle.
The service manager at Mahwah Honda was aware that there was an issue with Honda cars in the 90s and the main relay. The cars would not start if the main relay was overheated. The car could sit in direct sunlight and then just not start.
My next step is to request that a AHMC field engineer be sent to test and diagnose my car. It is my hope that he/she will look at the vehicle recorder box to find a code that the car is sending when it does not start.
If that fails, I may contact the Consumer Advocate media and the BBB.
If after I have exhausted all available remedies and the cause is not diagnosed and the vehicle not repaired, the service manager at Mahwah Honda said that I should research the NJ Lemon Law recourse. There are several helpful, straightforward Lemon Law sites on the Internet. The law was enacted to protect new and used car consumers.
Please note that my e-mail is intended only to provide information to the addressee not to be questioned or ridiculed by other site users that blame the car owner who is sharing and gathering information on this site.
Only relevant diagnostic information is welcome. Hecklers and enthusiasts need not reply.
I hope this information is somewhat helpful in testing, addressing and resolving your car's no start issue.
Questions: Does the engine turn when you turn the key to the start position? If the engine turns, and you let the key go back to the "run position" real quick, will the engine start? Does this condition occur after driving the vehicle and letting it sit with the engine off for a period of time, or does the problem show up with the engine cold? Do you have an alarm system on this vehicle? When this problem occurs, how do you get the engine to start? Did anything happen to the vehicle, prior to the problem showing up on this vehicle? Did you have anything installed on this vehicle, prior to the problem showing up on this vehicle? Possible causes: Bad ignition switch A problem with the ignition module Low battery voltage. (Most computer controlled vehicles will not fire the engine with a battery voltage below 9 volts). Please give us some more information on this subject.
Do you have a immobilisor? if so it will set itself on the on position after 20 sec's of switching off, even though the ignition key is left in. You should have a rectangle plastic key with a metal thing in the end,look on yer dash, there should be a small round silver button, it should be next to the door, simply touch it with the end of the key for 2 second's, this will disarm it, NO throttle, just turn the ignition key and it should start. Failing that, i cant say much more.. Cheers.
The dealership has spent 3 full days trying to diagnose and fix the problem. Unfortunately, they have not yet determined the cause of the problem and the sound continues to come. I spoke to the General Manager of the dealership and he said he will try to get me a new car. I am not sure how things will go from here. He claims most dealerships have already sold off their '05 stock and its really difficult to get a hold of these cars. I called another dealership this morning and they said they have the cars in stock. I am not sure how I should proceed from here. The service person told me that if they are willing to replace the car with an '06 its a better choice. The car comes with a 5 year 60000 miles warranty instead of the '05's 3 year 36000.
Anyone experience anything like this? Please guide me. :sick:
Anyone know if it's possible to upgrade the navi system in a 2003-2005 accord to the 2006? www.hondanavi.com says the 2006 accords have been upgraded to the white dvd system. The same system used in the RL.
If they are willing to swap your 05 for an 06 with no money out of your pocket, the cars are equal models, and your happy with the styling change, what's there to think about? Go for it!!
Your gaining a full model year, which is $ in your pocket when you go and trade it in.
had the same problem, warm on d/s, cold on p/s, and progressively got worse. We had a small a/c leak. Look for dirt/grime accumulation around all a/c connections and also have the mechanic check the charge on the system.
Has anyone here used 5w30 motor oil on their 03-05 Accord? I just bought an 05 Accord but still have 3 cases of 5w30 oil I was using on my 99 Accord. I realized the manual calls for 5w20. Would using 5w30 motor oil caused any problem besides maybe slightly less highway gas mileage.
I bought a Honda Accord in 2002. One day this year, I found a drop of transmission fluid under the car. I took the car to the dealer. The dealer told me the transmission was totally destroyed. The dealer asked me to pay $4,800 for repairing it. The warranty just expired (more than 36,000 miles). I I told them no transmission was supposed to be unusable in three years, warranty or no warranty. Finally, they agreed to repair the transmission with parts free. I paid the labor cost (about $500). I will never buy a Honda in the future.
My Accord V6 is a 2004 and I have only had it about a year. It makes this noise when I try to accelerate fast (ex. getting on the freeway). I read the manual and it looks like it might be the type of gas I put in. It has to be a certain kind and all of that. I normally put in the regular of Safeway's gas but recently switched to regular of Chevron and Texaco. It is still making that same noise. What type of gas does everyone put in and are there any suggestions?
Call Honda @ 800.999.1009. I have a 00 Accord SE that the dealer replaced the tranny in Nov 02 @ 88k miles. Free rental car, no cost for anything, the way it should be. The replacement is now failing @ 148k miles, only 60k on it!!! I hear the warranty on these trannys is extended to 100k or seven years. Anybody have an idea on how to get them to replace the second tranny? This is ridiculous.
Hello, my white just got real-ended by a truck. Anybody can recomend a good body shop in Sunnyvale or San Jose, CA? Dealer recommend Sturken auto body or Da-les auto body and frame. Which one is better? Anyone have expericence with them?
Did you purchase an extended Honda Care Warranty with your vehicle? I have a 7 year 100,000 mile warrranty on my 2003 - 4 cylinder Accord with zero deductable. So, if something goes wrong I am covered. Honda did you a "BIG FAVOR" by covering the parts. They saved you $4,300 dollars, and you are still unhappy????? If you feel that Honda treated you poorly, don't purchase another vehicle from them. Try Kia or Hyundai!
Our 1997 Accord EX Wagon (44K miles) has just developed a problem with the rear hatch lock. The rear hatch will not open under any circumstances. The key or the remote unlocks everything else, but the rear hatch is totally dead. It makes the right noises, but does nothing at the hatch. Even the key in the rear hatch lock doesn't unlock it. Any tips to point me in the right direction? Anybody know how to access the latch? TIA, Rex in San Antonio.
I had the exact same problem with my car and ended up filing lemon law on them. First of all, you can go to all of the dealerships in your area, that's what i did, and nobody has any idea what it is. It is kind of a loose rattly sound that you can hear with the windows down and it is extremely noticeable. I thought that it was a sway bar bushing that had worked its way loose in the right front side. I took it to a dealership in a city that I moved to and they were able to figure it out. It is caused by the brake pads sliding around in the brake caliper. . Frankly, I would let them give you a new car, but thats up to you. I could have gotten a new car through lemon law but in my state I would have to pay for the portion of the car that I had driven--$4,000----20k miles... so I took hondas offer of a comprehensive warranty.
"I realized the manual calls for 5w20. Would using 5w30 motor oil caused any problem besides maybe slightly less highway gas mileage."
No. The switch to 5W-20 motor oils is CAFE-driven. Corporate Average Fuel Economy ratings are what allow manufacturers to continue selling behemoth SUVs without penalty from the gov'mnt as long as the overall corporate fleet fuel economy stays below an arbitrary value set by the feds. If you pour 5W-30 motor oil into your new Accord you will not be in violation of any federal statutes, nor will you damage your engine in any way. (Shoot I used 10W-30 motor oil in my '96 Accord for 6 1/2 years!) If you were to go to the trouble of looking up the various bearing clearances in the same engine family group before and subsequent to the switch to 5W-20 motor oil recommendations, you'd discover they're exactly the same. Honda made NO running change in the basic mechanics due to the switch in recommended oil viscosity. Your actual fuel useage penalty isn't likely to be more than 1% different, either - but over millions of vehicles sold annually, the CAFE advantage makes a decided difference to Honda in avoiding fines from the EPA.
I purchased a 2005 Accord Coupe LX SE almost 3 months ago. I noticed the same exact problem at around 250 miles and I immediately took everything out of the trunk (jack, spare tire, etc..). The noise was still there!! I took it to the dealer and they were extremely confident that they knew the origin of the rattling noise, which would be a constant rattling regardless of what speed I was driving. The dealership replaced the right rear seat belt assembly but I guess they did not see the need to test drive the car afterwards because the noise was still there after I picked it up! Since then, I have taken it back a TOTAL OF 5 TIMES and they still cannot pinpoint the origin of the rattling noise. Shortly after the initial problem in the right rear, I noticed the same noise on my front driver side seatbelt. They replaced that right away and the noise from that area is gone. As for the rear noise, the dealership has ordered a new seat belt retractor, some rubber gaskets, and a brand new molding because they are now in the process of taking the entire back end and the molding will be damaged. They also want to take out the right rear glass to see if the noise is from there. The service advisor indicated that they are not certain if this would solve the problem but meanwhile, they are slowly dismantling a brand new car. I opened a case with Honda America yesterday and they are going to SEND ONE OF THEIR TECHNICIANS to Valencia Honda (California) to perform an analysis of my car. I am extremely disappointed that we are having such annoying, time consuming problems with a new vehicle....let alone a brand new Honda!!! The dealership still has my car but as soon as I hear anything, I will keep you posted. :mad:
Can you describe the noise? My '05 EX-V6 was making a noise on acceleration that sounded to me almost like a squeky belt. My wife thought it was a rattle. Turns out she was right, and that a heat shield was a bit loose. It didn't sound like your typical loose heat shield.
966 W Dana St Mountain View, CA 94041-1221 Phone: (650) 965-8400
I haven't wrecked anything lately, but I used Dunn's back in the 80's and the work was flawless. Eighteen years later, the repair can't be differentiated from the factory look. My dad has the vehicle now.
my car every time i want turn it on , it does almost does but not quit. they told me to change (relight gas pump.) those any one know where that is . please reply if u know the answer . thank your for time.
i am currently using a 2003 accord, and i noticed the other day the brake light ont eh left side isnt working. after turning on the lights and realizing the left most tail light still worked i narrowed my porblem down to the liklyhood of a blown fuse, only problem is as i look in the manual for the brake light fuse, it isnt in there, so could someone direct me to where the leftbrake light fuse would be, and since the manual doesnt cover it, i dont know give me maybe what color it is and what number is on top of the fuse, although im not sure if those stay constant from car to car
They don't use seperate fuses for right/left brake lights. You probably just need to replace the bad bulb. Many brake light bulbs are double filament (brake and tail light), seeing a working taillight could still mean it's the bulb.
I have a brand new 2005 EX-L with some minor defects. The stereo system has a high pitched noise that is most noticeable when a CD is being played. The repair tech tried to blame the noise the on burned CDs. However the noise is present when any type of CD is being played. Convinced the dealership to replace the deck and the new the deck is worse than the original. In addition the new deck now has the high pitched noise when the radio is being played. I love music and find myself regretting buying this car as I drive around in silence. additional problems: 1) headliner cut too short such that the gasket does not cover headliner on driver side 2) passenger side front suspension sounds different absorbing bumbs, loose or too much play Having doubts regarding Honda Quality Bradd2
Just a thought--do you have a license plate frame on your car? I notice that nearly every time I see a car with CA plates, there is a plastic dealer frame around it. If you have one, it could be banging against the license plate.
My 1994 Accord LX is running too hot. Hot air radiates from under the hood into the cabin, out the sides everywhere. Every time I turn the car off the cooling fans come on. The engine pings as I climb hills. Is there any life left in this car at 260,000 miles? Any possible solutions that are not cost prohibitive?
OK..I'm stumped on this one. This evening when coming home...during acceleration the car hesitated several times...then as I gave it a little more gas it made a huge backfire! At that point the D4 light on the display began blinking and the speedometer started freaking out..dropping to zero and jumping everywhere in between. Because of the blinking D4 light, I thought it was something with the transmission...but the car kept running fine and shifting fine for the next 2-3 miles (just enough to pull into a friends driveway)...and never had a Check Engine light Started the car later...and no more blinking light. Brother in Law (who mechanics at a local Acura dealership) thinks maybe some trash got in the system and blew out (the backfire) knocking the speed sensor. Just trying to see if anyone had any idea before I take the car in tomorrow (and "they" try to sell me some expensive tranny repair/rebuild/replace).
i have a similar problem when sometimes my honda accord 1999 starts up and sometimes it does not i dont know why but when it does not starts up it makes weird noise like fast clicking other times it wheni turn the key it doesnt turn overs can someone help i m scared to drive the car anywhere becasue i had the experience of the car not starting up after a movie for example what is the matter
My Honda Accord 1999 has a mind of its own sometimes it starts and sometimes it does not starts . When it doesn't starts it makes a fast clicking noise or makes a slow noise as if it wont turn over when i turn the key in the ignition . Sometime it will start and i drive it to a store when i come out it wont start !! could it be the immoboliser or a something else PLEASE HELP !!
Go to Pep Boys, Sears, or a local Tire and Battery store and have them check your battery. If your battery is low or about to quit sometimes it will start and sometimes it won't . We you turn on the started it closes a relay to disconnect other battery powered items. If the battery is low enough the relay will barely trip and it will make a "fast clicking noise"
Every 10K is for normal" conditions. 5000 for extreme conditions such as living in a city and doing slow commutes, or high temperature, etc. I would not change the oil at less than 5000 miles as you are destroying whats left of the environment for the greedy idea that you will get a few more miles out of a car. The company made recommendations that are based on science. People that tell you to change oil earlier are making recommendations based on nothing. Jiffy lube wants 3K oil changes because that is their business.
Anyone who pays $19k or so for a new car whose tranny goes before 40k miles has all the right to be disappointed - and to vent, imo (hdisppointed vented against Honda, not the dealer).
And any dealer who has to put up with customer complaints like hdisppointed's should be concerned, and seek recourse with the manufacturer.
BTW, 2000 and later trannies of the 6th gen Accord have had warranties extended to 7 years/100k by HOA. Why would the dealer decline free warranty repair ? Should hdisppointed have even footed $500 ?
The extended warranty on the Accord trannies only covered some 2000 and 2001 models, and then I'm pretty sure it was only V6-powered cars. My 2002, and a co-worker's 2000 fell outside the range, where Honda knew they had a bad batch of parts leading to an excessive failure rate on those transmissions.
If hdis's tab should have been picked up, then I should get my money back for the extended warranty I purchased. The dealer went above and beyond in that particular case.
"...While only two percent of these vehicles have experienced these transmission problems, American Honda will provide extended transmission warranties on all potentially affected vehicles. 'Our priorities are making sure our customers are taken care of and reassured they can continue to depend on their Honda or Acura automobile for a long time to come,' said Tom Elliott, executive vice president for American Honda."
Dunno if Honda actually did either, but from their perspective, it doesn't hurt to have a comfort margin. It's kinda like being followed by a cop - you may be driving perfectly legal, but you still keep an eye on the ol' speedo.
"why not recycle your drain oil so it can be used for other products?"
You're closer to the truth than you may realize - and it isn't just restricted to just "other products", either. At the close of WW-II, the allies were astounded at strange equipment found at German refineries. The German employees explained that it was used to re-refine by "hydrocracking" oil back to a nearly pure state in the presence of high heat, hydrogen under pressure, and a catalyst to drive the reaction. Several generations removed from the primitive German process is exactly how much petroleum derived base oil stock is "finished" all over the world today. When the process is applied under further elevated heat and time, the end result is classed as a synthetic base oil. (Castrol won an arbitration case against ExxonMobil in 1999 that allowed Castrol to market severely hydroprocessed base oil blended with additives as Syntec Full Synthetic. Don't worrly too much about ExxonMobil - they're crying all the way to the bank since they're also one of the largest producers of severely hydroprocessed base oils.) These base oils are sufficiently pure that they're water-white clear and, if ingested, would result only in a laxative effect. The amber color associated with motor oil is the result of the color of the various detergents, viscosity index improvers, antifriction and antiwear additives, and the carrier oil they're dissolved for handling. Additionally, there are three companies in the U.S. presently that process used motor oil in this manner, too, and sell the purified product to major blenders. Chemically and physically, it's every bit as pure as up-from-the-ground crude petroleum is after itself undergoing hydrocracking. There is absolutely no need to feel guilty about changing engine oil more frequently than the car manufacturer recommends for those wishing to protect their transportation investment. Those who arrogantly preach their allegedly superior social consciousness should do a little on-line research before presuming to pass judgment on others. Nothing petroleum derived is wasted when used motor oil is returned to a collection center for reprocessing. (I change my engine oil every 3,000 miles and take pride in my sense of environmental responsibility with the certainty that my engine's not grinding itself to oblivion and polluting to excess prematurely. )
MidCow thanks will get on it asap tomorrow love this forums because if i took it to my honda daelership they would have probably told me that there are about 4 things wrong with it and have to replace them .
Transmission seems to be OK. Started up the car and everything worked as normal..tranny, speedometer, etc. Drove it a few miles to the repair facility and you would never know anything had happened. Several mechanics have suggested the tranny is fine and it's the speed sensor that needs looking at. Going to have that swapped out today. May have dodged a very expensive bullet! More details to come...
I don't think that poster said how many miles that car had when the transmission failed. Just that it was out of warranty.
They should have been tickled that Honda stepped up and did what they didn't have to do. Instead, they complained and said they won't buy another Honda.
Who knows the treatment that car may have received in order for this to have happened?
Comments
To answer your e-mail query, I am unhappy to report that I am experiencing a no start issue with my now one year old Honda Accord LX..
My 2004 Accord LX (purchased in 09/04) has not started on four separate occasions within a two week period. One of these no start events really created a safety hazard as I was stuck in NYC rush hour traffic with a relatively new car that would not start with no apparent explanation or cause.
As soon as I experienced the no start twice, I went straight to the closest Honda dealer for repair under the warranty.
I have since brought my 2004 Accord LX 5 speed sedan with 15,000 miles to several area Honda dealers and I have contacted AHMC Customer Service several times...
When dealing with AHMC, I received no real assistance from the reps. I went onto the Internet and found the contact information for AHMC Corporate in Torrance, CA.
I left messages for the Customer Service Manager, and the Vice-President of Customer Service.
I received a more attentive return call from the Customer Service Supervisor, Doug Copeland. His contact number is 1-800-999-1009.
The first service team at D&C Honda in Tenafly, NJ thought that I was not engaging the clutch. Perhaps my all-weather floor mats were in the way of the clutch. Unlikely, as I had driven the car and engaged the clutch properly for the first ten months of driving with the same mats in place.
This is my third Honda and the sixth 5 speed manual transmission car I have owned and driven. I owned the identical model Honda Accord form 1997-2000. The only repair for the 97 Accord LX needed was a replacement of the driver's side window motor at 45,000 miles after 3 years of use.
I took the 2004 car back to D&C again two days later so they could keep the car for a day to duplicate the no start condition, run diagnostic tests, and repair the problem. As they could not duplicate the no start condition, they did no diagnostic tests for the electrical, starter, or ignition systems.
They then offered that a chip or battery in the key may defective. Apparently, if you have multiple keys with computerized chips together then your car may not be able to read the codes sent to the ignition switch.
I do not have multiple computerized keys on my key ring, just the one for the 2004 Honda Accord.
The only point is that a car that will not start is not reliable and potentially dangerous.
I talked with AHMC Customer Service Supervisor and he sent me to another Honda dealer's service department at Mahwah Honda.
This second Honda service team only checked the battery and returned the car to me.
All Honda parties, especially AHMC, said there were just too may codes that may cause the car not to start so they could not run any tests. The AHMC rep said that the car not starting was not his issue and reprimanded me that I was being uncooperative.
I asked them what their service technicians would do to test a car that did not start when it was brought to a dealer for repair, and they just said that there are too may computer codes to do any testing.
In my experience, the Customer Service reps at AHMC were of no assistance whatsoever...the rep blamed me and refused to provide a name or extension for his supervisor. It is absurd that a customer service rep would not know how to contact his direct boss...after all, he has to report to someone at AHMC. I spent time doing research and found the AMHC contact information on another Internet site.
As these two Honda dealers were unable to duplicate the problem, no attempt at any diagnostic intervention or tests; starter; ignition, main relay; electrical system were run.
You may want to research these potential causes and ask if there are any TSBs associated with the no start issue for your vehicle.
The service manager at Mahwah Honda was aware that there was an issue with Honda cars in the 90s and the main relay. The cars would not start if the main relay was overheated. The car could sit in direct sunlight and then just not start.
My next step is to request that a AHMC field engineer be sent to test and diagnose my car. It is my hope that he/she will look at the vehicle recorder box to find a code that the car is sending when it does not start.
If that fails, I may contact the Consumer Advocate media and the BBB.
If after I have exhausted all available remedies and the cause is not diagnosed and the vehicle not repaired, the service manager at Mahwah Honda said that I should research the NJ Lemon Law recourse. There are several helpful, straightforward Lemon Law sites on the Internet. The law was enacted to protect new and used car consumers.
Please note that my e-mail is intended only to provide information to the addressee not to be questioned or ridiculed by other site users that blame the car owner who is sharing and gathering information on this site.
Only relevant diagnostic information is welcome. Hecklers and enthusiasts need not reply.
I hope this information is somewhat helpful in testing, addressing and resolving your car's no start issue.
Good Luck!
Does the engine turn when you turn the key to the start position?
If the engine turns, and you let the key go back to the "run position" real quick, will the engine start?
Does this condition occur after driving the vehicle and letting it sit with the engine off for a period of time, or does the problem show up with the engine cold?
Do you have an alarm system on this vehicle?
When this problem occurs, how do you get the engine to start?
Did anything happen to the vehicle, prior to the problem showing up on this vehicle?
Did you have anything installed on this vehicle, prior to the problem showing up on this vehicle?
Possible causes:
Bad ignition switch
A problem with the ignition module
Low battery voltage. (Most computer controlled vehicles will not fire the engine with a battery voltage below 9 volts).
Please give us some more information on this subject.
You should have a rectangle plastic key with a metal thing in the end,look on yer dash, there should be a small round silver button, it should be next to the door, simply touch it with the end of the key for 2 second's, this will disarm it, NO throttle, just turn the ignition key and it should start.
Failing that, i cant say much more.. Cheers.
The service person told me that if they are willing to replace the car with an '06 its a better choice. The car comes with a 5 year 60000 miles warranty instead of the '05's 3 year 36000.
Anyone experience anything like this? Please guide me. :sick:
Your gaining a full model year, which is $ in your pocket when you go and trade it in.
Mrbill
No. The switch to 5W-20 motor oils is CAFE-driven. Corporate Average Fuel Economy ratings are what allow manufacturers to continue selling behemoth SUVs without penalty from the gov'mnt as long as the overall corporate fleet fuel economy stays below an arbitrary value set by the feds. If you pour 5W-30 motor oil into your new Accord you will not be in violation of any federal statutes, nor will you damage your engine in any way. (Shoot I used 10W-30 motor oil in my '96 Accord for 6 1/2 years!) If you were to go to the trouble of looking up the various bearing clearances in the same engine family group before and subsequent to the switch to 5W-20 motor oil recommendations, you'd discover they're exactly the same. Honda made NO running change in the basic mechanics due to the switch in recommended oil viscosity. Your actual fuel useage penalty isn't likely to be more than 1% different, either - but over millions of vehicles sold annually, the CAFE advantage makes a decided difference to Honda in avoiding fines from the EPA.
966 W Dana St
Mountain View, CA 94041-1221 Phone: (650) 965-8400
I haven't wrecked anything lately, but I used Dunn's back in the 80's and the work was flawless. Eighteen years later, the repair can't be differentiated from the factory look. My dad has the vehicle now.
Honda went beyond the call of duty and ate most of the cost of replacing your transmission when they didn't have to.
So, now, you will never buy another Honda and you slam them for doing this in this forum?
Mrbill
additional problems:
1) headliner cut too short such that the gasket does not cover headliner on driver side
2) passenger side front suspension sounds different absorbing bumbs, loose or too much play
Having doubts regarding Honda Quality
Bradd2
Is there any life left in this car at 260,000 miles?
Any possible solutions that are not cost prohibitive?
Good Luck,
MidCow
And any dealer who has to put up with customer complaints like hdisppointed's should be concerned, and seek recourse with the manufacturer.
BTW, 2000 and later trannies of the 6th gen Accord have had warranties extended to 7 years/100k by HOA. Why would the dealer decline free warranty repair ? Should hdisppointed have even footed $500 ?
The extended warranty on the Accord trannies only covered some 2000 and 2001 models, and then I'm pretty sure it was only V6-powered cars. My 2002, and a co-worker's 2000 fell outside the range, where Honda knew they had a bad batch of parts leading to an excessive failure rate on those transmissions.
If hdis's tab should have been picked up, then I should get my money back for the extended warranty I purchased. The dealer went above and beyond in that particular case.
1) Honda.com news, in Sep 2002, released this notice for 2000-2001 Accords.
http://world.honda.com/news/2002/4020920.html
2) Consumer Guide reports (publication date unknown) that 2000-2002 Accords were covered.
http://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/Used/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/2289/act/usedcarreviewre- - - - - liability/
"...While only two percent of these vehicles have experienced these transmission problems, American Honda will provide extended transmission warranties on all potentially affected vehicles. 'Our priorities are making sure our customers are taken care of and reassured they can continue to depend on their Honda or Acura automobile for a long time to come,' said Tom Elliott, executive vice president for American Honda."
all potentially affected vehicles.
that does not mean all vehicles.
You're closer to the truth than you may realize - and it isn't just restricted to just "other products", either. At the close of WW-II, the allies were astounded at strange equipment found at German refineries. The German employees explained that it was used to re-refine by "hydrocracking" oil back to a nearly pure state in the presence of high heat, hydrogen under pressure, and a catalyst to drive the reaction. Several generations removed from the primitive German process is exactly how much petroleum derived base oil stock is "finished" all over the world today. When the process is applied under further elevated heat and time, the end result is classed as a synthetic base oil. (Castrol won an arbitration case against ExxonMobil in 1999 that allowed Castrol to market severely hydroprocessed base oil blended with additives as Syntec Full Synthetic. Don't worrly too much about ExxonMobil - they're crying all the way to the bank since they're also one of the largest producers of severely hydroprocessed base oils.) These base oils are sufficiently pure that they're water-white clear and, if ingested, would result only in a laxative effect. The amber color associated with motor oil is the result of the color of the various detergents, viscosity index improvers, antifriction and antiwear additives, and the carrier oil they're dissolved for handling. Additionally, there are three companies in the U.S. presently that process used motor oil in this manner, too, and sell the purified product to major blenders. Chemically and physically, it's every bit as pure as up-from-the-ground crude petroleum is after itself undergoing hydrocracking. There is absolutely no need to feel guilty about changing engine oil more frequently than the car manufacturer recommends for those wishing to protect their transportation investment. Those who arrogantly preach their allegedly superior social consciousness should do a little on-line research before presuming to pass judgment on others. Nothing petroleum derived is wasted when used motor oil is returned to a collection center for reprocessing. (I change my engine oil every 3,000 miles and take pride in my sense of environmental responsibility with the certainty that my engine's not grinding itself to oblivion and polluting to excess prematurely.
They should have been tickled that Honda stepped up and did what they didn't have to do. Instead, they complained and said they won't buy another Honda.
Who knows the treatment that car may have received in order for this to have happened?