I've exhausted several avenues in getting an intermittent, clicking sound roof rattle fixed on my 2005 Accord EX bought in January 2005. It's been to the dealer 5 times for various fixes ... and each time they confirmed the noise. After the fifth time, the dealer wouldn't touch the car again for the same issue until the factory rep looked at it. The service manager and factory rep test drove the car with me, confirmed the noise, and the factory rep said it wasn't a Honda problem as the noise wasn't heard on a small stretch of newly paved, flat, straight stretch of road that we drove on. Any "regular" road surface with imperfections, and the noise was there.
Honda Customer Service took a month to "resolve" my case after repeated calls on my end. They said there was nothing abnormal with the car and that there would be no further action on Honda's part.
I've gone ahead and filed a complaint with the BBB Auto Line per the warranty booklet. Has anyone had any experience with the BBB process? What happened?
I read somewhere here about the '06 model having a no-cable (or no-wire) kind of a gas-pedal... It's all electronic now, and it was predicted that it WILL result in some hesitation in acceleration...
Do a search on the issue. I'm sure it was posted here lately...
Search my moniker "ssteelma" for my travails with noises in this car. They probably do not go back long enough to get my full story.
The BBB is great but you....must...have...a...lot...of...time.
It works best if a wheel is falling off or if a problem detracts from the value of your car. If it's "just a noise" you are pretty well out of luck. It will "relight" a fire under HOA's butt - also puts you into the "troublemaker" caegory.
If you can't live with the noises - dump the car and take the loss. Don't look back and don't make tha same mistake again.
Some drive-by-wire systems are initially very "touchy", others have an initial dead spot. Since they are under the control of the ECM's programming, expect at some point Honda (as others* already have) issues a TSB to re-program the ECMs with downloadable software dealer techs can install for a more conventional accelerator "feel".
*BMW, Jaguar, Mercedes, Hyundai and others had a LOT of complaints about too-sudden acceleration at start-off when the companies went to drive-by-wire on their flagship sedans several years ago. Test engineers' preferences don't always coincide with actual customer preferences - and those customer preferences can even vary by regional market. They've gradually gotten the kinks worked out. (pun intended...)
My concern with a "drive by wire system" is the possibility of an accident while waiting at a stop light, with people crossing in front of the vehicle. Another reason to put the transmission in neutral. I don't think this is a GREAT idea. If the new 2006 Accord has this technology, I might not consider this vehicle should I decide to trade! I would need to do some research on this topic, and drive one of these vehicles for a LONG test drive.
I believe all of the seventh generation Accords, including my 2004 V6, are equipped with a "drive by wire" throttle. With so many hundreds of thousands of Accords (and Acuras) using the design, you surely would have been aware of any concerns in the past three or more years. There is no problem.
A search of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration website bears out the fact that your concerns are unfounded. You can do your research here:
Wouldn't interior rattling detract from the value of the car? I certainly wouldn't buy my car if someone was selling it and I heard that noise ... or if I did, I would expect a deep discount. And if I was to trade it in sometime in the future for another car, I'm sure the trade-in price would be knocked down because of the interior issues (and I'm not one to lie about a problem when asked).
"Relighting a fire under HOA's butt" ... are you saying that the best the BBB will be able to do is get Honda to revisit the issue and try another repair attempt?
Solution: about the rattle noise from the glovebox area, if you insert an eraser between the bottom-right end of the windshield and that dark grey plastic underneath, the rattle will disappear for the life of the vehicle ! Leave the eraser there of course. To find the best spot to insert the eraser, ask somebody to insert his/her fingers between the windshield and different areas of the dash, and listen to the rattle. When the rattle dissapears, you found the spot !
Question: Do you have a VERTICAL vibration in the steering wheel at 65-75 mph ??? It's like the vehicle's body would vertically vibrate. The wheels are balanced OK (there is no left-right steering wheel vibration). It's not engine related (it happens when in neutral too). The car is a 4cyl manual.
I don't have the literature for the 04 Accord, but I'm looking right at the literature in the section for a 05 non hybrid under the "engineering" heading specifically states that the LXV6 and EXV6 have the "Drive by wire throttle system"
You are wrong. All V6 7th gen Accords have it, even my 03EXV6. Since I couldn't post the brochure, so here's the article about 03 Accord. http://www.kron4.com/global/story.asp?s=2599714 Read under "driving impression".
chucko3's right about all 7gen V6s having DBW. 4 cyl models have it too beginning 2006. DBW and mechanical systems are indistinguishable response-wise based on the two Accord variants we drive currently.
But more on the safety aspect, fly-by-wire in aircraft has been around for about a decade now with a good degree of success. A mechanical back-up system in cars has been studied and possibly designed in already.
As its safety track record builds and technology evolves, DBW will probably become pretty much standard imo. The increasing number of safety-related features partly or wholly dependent on DBW technology (traction control, stability control, distance-sensitive cruise control) seems to validate this.
Don't give them more ideas ... an idiot with a billion to spend could invent another computer crap, to take more of the driver authority and give it to a bunch of 1 micron (1mm/1000 = 1inch/25,400) thick wires called "computers". Obviously money flows from steering, braking etc, to "technology". All this for safety ?! Like safety would mean giving a computer the authority to brake the front-left wheel for instance when it wants, and steer me into the incoming 18 wheeler ?! Because of a bad ground contact or a bad steering sensor ?! Idiots ! I paste at the end a Toyota Sienna owner post about his VSC equipped Sienna.
Any news about my steering wheel vertical vibration ?
############################################################## "Toyota Sienna Owners: Problems & Solutions (2004+)" Post #1295 of 1745 vsc problem by arosati Feb 16, 2005 (10:27 am)
I have a 2004 sienna and I'd like to know if anyone has seen a problem similar to this. While driving approx 40mph on a straight and dry road the trac and vsc light went on. this was immediately followed by a rapid beeper going off in the dash. What followed next was dangerous - the steering wheel pulled sharply to the left( i believe the front left brake was being applied) the accelerator was disabled.(no physical damage to people or property) After the car slowed to 5mph the lights and beeping and braking all stopped - when you speed up to 5mph it all happens again. - sounds like fun? The car was nice enough to repeat this event to the toyota service manager. They found a toyota tsb telling of a 'steering angle sensor' problem that when occurs continually activates the vsc. The car thinks its skidding through a sharp turn and is correcting - when its actually going straight. This tsb only affects 'early model year' siennas and sequoias -- These cars share some of the same vsc parts. They claim the steering sensor has been re engineered to return an error code that would disable the system when the part malfunctions rather than the incorrect steering angle. - There were no fault codes gathered in the onboard computer. The service manager also mentioned (unofficially) that the only way he knew of to the disable the vsc (not traction control) was to pull and short the wires going to the brake fluid sensor - the vsc turns itself off when you are low on brake fluid. The car is still at the dealer Id like to have any feedback before I have to pick it up tomorrow. thanks
I just purchased a 05 Accord EX-V6 model. I previously owned a 00 Accord EX-V6. The issue that I'm having is that when I try to start the vehicle it does like 3 "clicks" before the engine starts. My previous 00 accord v6 even after 115k miles never did this. It would start automatically as I turn the key with no clicking noise. Is this normal or unusual? Other than that I don't notice any issues with speed or performance issues, just some interior noise. Thank you
I have a rattle in my steering column when traveling over bounces. The dealer diagonosed the problem as worn tie rod bushings. The car has 48k careful highway miles. Does this sound premature? The dealer said Honda uses a new vendor for the bushings and will last longer.
Also, the tranny is shifting rougher than when purchased new in '02. Slipped a few times up hills (15 mph). V6 Hondas are plagued with tranny problems and my warranty is up.
I still believe this car rides too stiff and rough. May wear suspension components quicker than the average car.
The glove box is stuffed with yellow repair slips...front brake shuddering (unresolved), rear struts "hissing & shushing" (unresolved), squeaks, rattles, 2nd gear tranny recall.
Toyota, I'm coming back home...'07 Camry can't come quick enough.
"'Relighting a fire under HOA's butt' ... are you saying that the best the BBB will be able to do is get Honda to revisit the issue and try another repair attempt?"
Not on your life. The BBB "Alternative Dispute Resolution" program is a procedure by which owners submit their dipsute to binding arbitration. Paperwork, received from the BBB, is filled out in as much detail as necessary, and copies of receipts and/or work orders, if any, are submitted to the BBB where's it's reviewed by an arbitrator (usually a retired judge, but when necessary other professionals depending on the technical depth required). The arbitrator's decision will be mailed to both parties within 40 days and is final on the manufacturer. Honda, in this case, could not appeal if the decission is against the company, and repairs must be commenced within the performance date set by the arbitrator. Approximately two weeks subsequent to the performance date, the arbitrator contacts the car owner to verfiy that repairs have been satisfactorily completed. However, if the arbitrator's decision is not in favor of the car owner, he/she is still free to appeal by pursuing other avenues including lemon law filings and/or other civil action. (These would be at the car owner's expense unless a court assessed reasonable court costs from the car manufacturer.) There is NO cost for this service to the car owner. The manufacturer bears all costs for both the repairs and the cost(s) of binding arbitration.
"careful highway miles" is a phrase without substantive meaning. Every time ANY road irrugularity is encountered, the tierod bushings have to allow flexing. In other words they inevitably wear out. All you can legitimately ask of any component is that it last the duration of the general warranty. Your car's bushings did. Hopefully the replacement bushings will be longer-lived per the dealer's advice.
Rough shifting Honda-matics are as old as Honda-matics. (though the current generation boxes from '03 onward are considerably more smoothly shifting - no doubt due to internal changes and a new ATF) Transmission slippage at only 48K miles is not normal. Make certain you're not low on ATF. If there really is a defect, you should be covered under a V6 Honda-matic warranty extension. Most owners received letters from Honda about the extended transmission warranty, but there will be some who didn't. No matter - contact the dealer, or if necessary, Honda USA.
Honda has always, and continues to favor handling over ride-comfort in Accords. Presumably you test drove an Accord prior to your purchase decision. I used to have a '96 Accord and I'm well aware of (and in agreement with) your comments about ride quality. But, the car held the road like Jack Benny held onto his coin purse. For me that was the overriding issue. If I'd wanted "luxo-smooth", I'd have bought a Camry. (Never keep a cat unless you can live with being scratched occasionally. )
I,m the owner of a 2005 V-6 with the same front end thump.I didn,t know what the hell it was untill I visited this forum .Mine happens right after I start it and I pull away.
Thanks .. I've got the paperwork from the BBB and will be mailing it off this week.
My question really was in regards to what I could reasonably expect the BBB to do for me in this case where the interior noise issue impacts car value.
48K seems to be low milage for the bushings to be worn, but of all the things that could be causing the rattle, tie rod bushings are probably one of the cheaper things that could go.
If you are concerned that the estimate was high, you might try a non Honda repair shop. It's an easy fix that any shop or backyard mechanic could do for that matter.
Filing a BBB complaint got a completely new group of people in contact with me that were more interested in fixing my problem. There really tried to fix the problem and were motivated by the BBB claim.
Did they fix the problem - no - and I sold my car and took the first year's depreciation up the [non-permissible content removed]. Don't look back.
If you can afford a better car and are looking for a top of the line Accord to subsitute - it ain't going to work. The Accord is for the masses - that will believe that unacceptable noises are "characteristic".
My father is in the market for a midsize sedan. He currently has a VW Passat, and is looking at the V-6 in the Camry and the Accord. He likes Toyota, but likes the sportiness of the Honda. I'm nervous about Honda's transmission problems in their V-6. Does anyone know if this problem has been taken care of in the 06? Has it gotten any better in the later 05s?
PS - Thank God they changed the rear lights in the new model! Amen!
Ok, I have a 98 Accord LX (4 cyl) at about 96,500 miles. It vibrates alot when it hits 55mph & up. I've been told it's everything from the timing belt (which is new) being off "a tooth" by a Midas mechanic, to bad sparkplug wires, from a Honda mechanic. This same mech also tells me there is nothing wrong with the timing belt. Which didn't surprise me since I had a Honda dealer install the belt and it'd be rare for them to admit an error. So I go and replace the plug wires but not with "Honda brand" plugs. I also put in a K&N air filter. The car still runs pretty rough and the tachometer sometimes can goes to 2,000 when I'm only driving 20mph, which strikes me as odd. I have no clue if this is due to bad spark plugs (which have been changed numerously over the last 3 years) or the belt really being off or what. I also have problems with the power locks and windows not working from driver side door at times & the shifter locking up and taking at least 5 tries before the brake light comes on and the car can finally shift. I'd trade it in, but it's paid off and if I don't have to make car payments, I'd rather not you know? So if there is anyone who could possibly help me out here I'd really appreciate it! The vibration is my biggest concern & I'm really getting tired of what seems like I'm throwing money into a car and getting nothing out of it.
im pretty sure thats one of the pieces i changed from the diagram. it didnt do the trick. well i brought the car in and the guy hooked it up to the computer, he said the read outs were just saying it was overheating nothing more. he really didnt say it was the radiator but it is steaming, i heard you can ge the radiator plugged, and not have to buy a new one...? i was thinking it was the water pump not circulating, are there any sure ways to tell if thats it... ?
Not sure what you mean by a "vibration". Sounds more like a wheel balance problem. You Midas "mechanic" is wrong.
I keep hearing how Hondas like the kind of spark plugs they come with. I think NGK's? I remember in the "old days" how using Champion spark plugs could cause problems.
The K&N air filters are thought by most to be a waste of money.
I would take your car to either a dealer or someone whe REALLY knows Hondas and pay them to find out what is really wrong. You may not have to spend a lot of money to get it working well.
Yes, Honda's do use NGK plugs. Although I'm not totally sure what's in my car right now because last time I had it changed was at a Midas and I never took the plugs out myself to see what they are. By vibration I basically mean that when driving, once I hit 55mph or so, the steering wheel starts to vibrate and it feels like the car has some kind of vibration sensation from the engine. But it also feels like it might be from the wheels. Maybe they need to be balanced after all. As far as taking it to someone who'd know what's really wrong, that's part of the problem. Hard finding anyone in my area who I can believe. I tried looking into getting a computer diagnostic, but that costs anywhere from $70 on up around here and all the places that offer it say no codes will come up if there are no lights coming on signaling a problem. About the K&N filters being thought of as a waste of money, I've heard different and it did seem to improve acceleration in my car. Just didn't change anything with the vibration problem. Thanks for responding to my post though. If anyone else out there has any other helpful hints or tips to fixing this problem, I'd still be interested to hear what you have to say.
A couple of the guys in the shop and they said it's **possible** the balancer belt could be a tooth off which can cause a vibration. Not at all likely, but remotely possible. NOT the timing belt, but the balancer belt.
This sure sounds like a bad tire or a wheel balance problem to me.
And, sorry, but I just don't like some of the chains when it comes to repairing cars. Some of these guys like to guess a lot and throw parts at cars hoping they will find the problem.
You may start with a simple rotating of the tires. I doubt that ALL of your tires are out of balance, so a rotation could help answer where the problem is. Usually an unbalanced tire will act differently when moved from the front to the back.
my front bumper cover is filled with little nicks, yet they look big enough to fill and they really annoy me. i was thinking i could probably just fill them in, but when i went looking for a filler type thing at the local auto store i could not find it, where would i find a filler for the front bumper cover, and if there is no specific name brand of filler for cars (which i wouldnt be to surprised of) what else would be a viable filler, or am i just talking out of my [non-permissible content removed] here with a pretty much useless dream?
There was an issue with V6 Hondas and Acuras with A/T in which if cars were driven on the highway in 5th gear over long periods--especially when carrying a heavy load--a gear shaft could become too hot and a gear could eventually break. This condition was very rare and few transmissions actually failed. Honda issued a recall to prevent the problem from happening, so there really never was any trouble on a large scale.
Hondas/Acuras with V6 engines and 5-speed A/Ts were all recalled and examined. Affected cars had transmissions replaced (probably very few cars) and all others were fitted with a kit that increased oil flow to the gear shaft to prevent overheating. This was considered a permanent fix. Transmissions produced after the problem was discovered were redesigned to prevent the problem. Certainly, 2006 cars are not affected because the problem was engineered out of newly built A/Ts many months ago.
Four cylinder Hondas/Acuras did not share this potential problem and were not recalled. There is no reason to worry about that problem when considering an '06 Accord V6. Buyers of used, older Accords would be wise to make sure the fix was done on the car they buy.
Note that if your father is also considering the Camry, it's rumored that the 2007 Camry will be introduced early in 2006, so buy an '06 at a deep discount as it'll be obsolete soon. The '06 Accord won't be changed until late '07 when an all-new 2008 Accord is introduced.
The '06 Accord is well along in its life cycle but is a well-perfected car and perhaps a better choice than buying a Camry just before it's replaced, or when it's all-new and likely to be more troublesome than it would be after the first year............Richard
There was a recall of certain 2003 & 2004 Honda transmissions in the early Spring of 2004. There should be no concern with Accords built after that time.
ON SOME MINI VANS, SPORT UTILITY AND PASSENGER VEHICLES, CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN RESULT IN HEAT BUILD-UP BETWEEN THE COUNTERSHAFT AND SECONDARY SHAFT SECOND GEARS IN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, EVENTUALLY LEADING TO GEAR TOOTH CHIPPING OR GEAR BREAKAGE. Defect Consequence: GEAR FAILURE COULD RESULT IN TRANSMISSION LOCKUP, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH. Remedy: ON VEHICLES WITH 15,000 MILES OR LESS, THE DEALER WILL UPDATE THE TRANSMISSION WITH A SIMPLE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE TO INCREASE LUBRICATION TO THE SECOND GEAR. ON VEHICLES WITH MORE THAN 15,000 MILES, THE DEALER WILL INSPECT THE TRANSMISSION TO IDENTIFY GEARS THAT HAVE ALREADY EXPERIENCED DISCOLORATION DUE TO OVERHEATING. IF DISCOLORATION EXISTS, THE TRANSMISSION WILL BE REPLACED IF DISCOLORATION IS NOT PRESENT, THE DEALER WILL PERFORM THE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON APRIL 21, 2004, FOR PILOT, ODYSSEY, AND MDX OWNERS. OWNERS OF THE ACCORD VEHICLES WILL START RECEIVING LETTERS ON JUNE 28, 2004, AND ON JUNE 29, 2004, FOR OWNERS OF THE TL AND CL VEHICLES. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Yes, there are things like spot fillers made for filling imperfections in paint. The problem is they are designed only in applications where the area will be repainted later.
The fillers I've used come in a toothpaste tube, and appers to be just a thickened primer. You fill the area, let it dry, then sand the spot until its level with the surrounding area. Doing this on your bumper would require you to have the whole bumper painted when your done.
The only thing I know of that you can do to touch up the chips without a total repaint would be to use a touch-up bottle. It never looks perfect, but it's better then nothing. I've found that using a toothpick to apply the paint works better for small chips than trying to use the brush in the cap. The better you do with putting paint just in the chip, the better it will look when dry. You will probably need to apply more then one coat if you want to build the paint up to the same level as the rest.
My wife left the lights on and drained the battery. After it was jumped the audio system does not work. THe clock blinks and when I press the power button it displays "ERR-2"
I have a 2003 EX with the 6 CD system. This does not include the navigation system.
Any ideas what I should do to reset the audio system?
I don't know what ERR-2 means, maybe someone else knows.
My suggestion would be to pull the fuse for the radio, wait a minute or so, and plug it back in. The worst that could happen is that it will still show ERR-2.
My guess is the radio needs to be fully reset. A drained battery, although drained enough that the car won't start, may still have enough energy to keep the radio somewhat alive. Things like the radio code and station settings rely on constant power. I'll bet that some of the electronics in the radio may have been reset, where some may not. It's probably in some state of confusion, hence the ERR-2. It may need just a good clean power cycle, but you will need your radio codes when done.
Ok, so this morning I had the tires balanced and rotated. The car still feels the same though. If the problem is that the balancer belt is off, would that have a code come up with a computer diagnostic? Also, is it a pretty easy thing to fix or is it a very pricey thing to correct? I think that belt was changed with the timing belt, and since Honda changed it I assume if it were to be shown to be the balancer belt is off as the cause of the vibration, Honda would cover the cost. If anyone knows though if a code would show in a computer diagnostic for the balancer belt being off, please let me know. Thanks.
thanks for the info, ill probably use a spot filler since i plan on painting my car in the near future since the current paint looks incredibly tired, and is filled with scratches
Why does a small leak run your radiator dry? Because when the pressure built up in the radiator reaches the limit set by the radiator cap, the cap opens and lets the coolant run into the reservoir. When the coolant in the radator cools down, the vaccum created earlier sucks the coolant back into the radiator. If you have a leaking radiator, you know where the coolant goes when you see a steam. Soon or later, the leaked spot gets weaker and weaker, the radiator will explode!
To tell a water pump working or not, one way I can think of. When the engine is cool, open the radiator cap. Turn on the engine, rev it up. Soon as thermostat opens, you will see coolant flowing to the radiator. The engine will not get over heat when you open the cap. The engine will not reach the operating temperature. I drove my Pontiac Sunbird home with the radiator cap open when the radiator hose burst. After I refilled the radiator, of course.
i too have a 2005 EX 4 door and there seems to be several noises that i haven't been able to isolate. One noise sounds like the window is tapping something or something is tapping against the window. Another noise sounds like something is loose in the door. The other noise sounds is a creaking sound. I assumed headliner, but I can't tell. Now the sound is happening on the passenger side, but since i don't sit there i can't tell for sure.
i'm starting to think japanese quality is overrated.
2001 Accord (67K mile) making clunking/thunking noies(from the front end) going over small bumps or potholes at low speed.. so far Honda nor Midas have found the problem.. :confuse:
I have had all the struts replaced..Honda and Midas inspected engine mounts, tie rods, balljoints, sway bars, control arm bushings, coils you name it.. and nothing showing wear..
Midas mentiond something about lubing some sway bar? but Honda said it wasnt that... and now the noise is LOUDER and more frequent with new struts! Nothing...
Help me! and Here i thought I was a car nut(case)
Christian jumbojetla@adelphia.net (best way to reach me)
well here i am again. i havnt started the daunting task of working on my new problem but its always good to get some other ideas befor i start trouble shooting myself.
any input from any one will be taken into consideration and is greatly appriciated.
i have a 1991 honda accord ex. about 2 weeks ago the muffler blew off. ok no biggie just wait till i got the money and replace it right. problem is that the flex joint, befor the cat, sprung a leak as well. this caused a bit off a back pressure problem. car started great but after a little while it seemed the engine would bog and stumble and continue to loose power even under light acceleration. if u pressed the gas peddle to the floor it would accelerate out of it and run fine. but eventually it would come back again forcing me to accelerate out of it again.
got the exaust fixed hoping that the issue was the back pressure lose, and the flex pipe new muffler and tail pipe would solve this problem.
but the problem still persisted!!
it was a little harder to tell but it was definitly still doing it. so i decided to ride it out till i could really start working on it. only drove it a few times.
i pulled the plugs and cleaned them up a little. they had obviously been over heated. they were a little white with some green corosion but otherwise ok. i sanded the corosion off lightly and cleaned them up and put them back in. this did not help any as the problem came back again.
today on my way into town the throttle started to do the same symptoms. power would start to lag, car would shutter a little, started to loose some power, same as usuall. so i accelerated to get threw it but the car kept shuttering threw the acceleration and sounded like real put putts. took my foot off the gas and it stopped. press the gas again and a large cloud of whitish gas comes out the back end. foot off the gas and the smoke clears. press gas again and poof another cloud of smoke and the shuddering continues.
ok so i started to pull over and the car stalls. everytime i try to restart the car its pumpin alot of white smoke out the exaust and seems to iether stumble or miss during cranking and will not start.
fun stuff huh. any advice, ideas, and or help would be appriciated.
My wife and I will be picking up our 2006 Accord EX-L this weekend and we are wondering if it's possible to rewire the provided XM to Sirius. We currently have a subscription to Sirus and I'd hate to have to use two different satellite services. Our sales guy said the only way would be to use one of those units that broadcasts an FM signal that you then tune in with you receiver...Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
Comments
My 03 Accord has it too.
Honda Customer Service took a month to "resolve" my case after repeated calls on my end. They said there was nothing abnormal with the car and that there would be no further action on Honda's part.
I've gone ahead and filed a complaint with the BBB Auto Line per the warranty booklet. Has anyone had any experience with the BBB process? What happened?
Thanks.
Do a search on the issue. I'm sure it was posted here lately...
The BBB is great but you....must...have...a...lot...of...time.
It works best if a wheel is falling off or if a problem detracts from the value of your car. If it's "just a noise" you are pretty well out of luck. It will "relight" a fire under HOA's butt - also puts you into the "troublemaker" caegory.
If you can't live with the noises - dump the car and take the loss. Don't look back and don't make tha same mistake again.
*BMW, Jaguar, Mercedes, Hyundai and others had a LOT of complaints about too-sudden acceleration at start-off when the companies went to drive-by-wire on their flagship sedans several years ago. Test engineers' preferences don't always coincide with actual customer preferences - and those customer preferences can even vary by regional market. They've gradually gotten the kinks worked out. (pun intended...)
I believe all of the seventh generation Accords, including my 2004 V6, are equipped with a "drive by wire" throttle. With so many hundreds of thousands of Accords (and Acuras) using the design, you surely would have been aware of any concerns in the past three or more years. There is no problem.
A search of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration website bears out the fact that your concerns are unfounded. You can do your research here:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/home.cfm
"Relighting a fire under HOA's butt" ... are you saying that the best the BBB will be able to do is get Honda to revisit the issue and try another repair attempt?
about the rattle noise from the glovebox area, if you insert an eraser between the bottom-right end of the windshield and that dark grey plastic underneath, the rattle will disappear for the life of the vehicle ! Leave the eraser there of course. To find the best spot to insert the eraser, ask somebody to insert his/her fingers between the windshield and different areas of the dash, and listen to the rattle. When the rattle dissapears, you found the spot !
Question:
Do you have a VERTICAL vibration in the steering wheel at 65-75 mph ??? It's like the vehicle's body would vertically vibrate. The wheels are balanced OK (there is no left-right steering wheel vibration). It's not engine related (it happens when in neutral too). The car is a 4cyl manual.
Thanks
Checking Honda's web site, searching for "Drive by Wire" --- most of the 2006 Honda cars now have it, but the only 2005 model is the Accord Hybrid.
Mrbill
Since I couldn't post the brochure, so here's the article about 03 Accord.
http://www.kron4.com/global/story.asp?s=2599714
Read under "driving impression".
But more on the safety aspect, fly-by-wire in aircraft has been around for about a decade now with a good degree of success. A mechanical back-up system in cars has been studied and possibly designed in already.
http://www.worldwidewords.org/turnsofphrase/tp-dri1.htm
As its safety track record builds and technology evolves, DBW will probably become pretty much standard imo. The increasing number of safety-related features partly or wholly dependent on DBW technology (traction control, stability control, distance-sensitive cruise control) seems to validate this.
http://www.autotrader.com/research/shared/article.jsp?article_id=5006&refpage=safetyinfo&r- - - - estype=used
Interestingly, throttle control is just one of many DBW functions. How about DBW steering - scary, huh ?
Any news about my steering wheel vertical vibration ?
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"Toyota Sienna Owners: Problems & Solutions (2004+)"
Post
#1295 of 1745 vsc problem by arosati Feb 16, 2005 (10:27 am)
I have a 2004 sienna and I'd like to know if anyone has seen a problem similar to this. While driving approx 40mph on a straight and dry road the trac and vsc light went on. this was immediately followed by a rapid beeper going off in the dash. What followed next was dangerous - the steering wheel pulled sharply to the left( i believe the front left brake was being applied) the accelerator was disabled.(no physical damage to people or property) After the car slowed to 5mph the lights and beeping and braking all stopped - when you speed up to 5mph it all happens again. - sounds like fun? The car was nice enough to repeat this event to the toyota service manager. They found a toyota tsb telling of a 'steering angle sensor' problem that when occurs continually activates the vsc.
The car thinks its skidding through a sharp turn and is correcting - when its actually going straight. This tsb only affects 'early model year' siennas and sequoias -- These cars share some of the same vsc parts. They claim the steering sensor has been re engineered to return an error code that would disable the system when the part malfunctions rather than the incorrect steering angle. - There were no fault codes gathered in the onboard computer. The service manager also mentioned (unofficially) that the only way he knew of to the disable the vsc (not traction control) was to pull and short the wires going to the brake fluid sensor - the vsc turns itself off when you are low on brake fluid. The car is still at the dealer Id like to have any feedback before I have to pick it up tomorrow. thanks
Interesting.... I'll have to look in my manual again.
But I have to admit, driving BOTH a new '05 V6 Accord, and a '95 V6 Accord, I sure don't feel ANY difference in the gas pedal response...
I DO feel a difference in the BRAKE pedal response, though.... And I like my OLD one better....
....Maybe we are ALL wrong and this DBW is used for the BRAKE pedal and not the GAS pedal?
And, no, you won't feel a difference in the gas pedel.
The issue that I'm having is that when I try to start the vehicle it does like 3 "clicks" before the engine starts. My previous 00 accord v6 even after 115k miles never did this. It would start automatically as I turn the key with no clicking noise. Is this normal or unusual? Other than that I don't notice any issues with speed or performance issues, just some interior noise. Thank you
Also, the tranny is shifting rougher than when purchased new in '02. Slipped a few times up hills (15 mph). V6 Hondas are plagued with tranny problems and my warranty is up.
I still believe this car rides too stiff and rough. May wear suspension components quicker than the average car.
The glove box is stuffed with yellow repair slips...front brake shuddering (unresolved), rear struts "hissing & shushing" (unresolved), squeaks, rattles, 2nd gear tranny recall.
Toyota, I'm coming back home...'07 Camry can't come quick enough.
Not on your life. The BBB "Alternative Dispute Resolution" program is a procedure by which owners submit their dipsute to binding arbitration. Paperwork, received from the BBB, is filled out in as much detail as necessary, and copies of receipts and/or work orders, if any, are submitted to the BBB where's it's reviewed by an arbitrator (usually a retired judge, but when necessary other professionals depending on the technical depth required). The arbitrator's decision will be mailed to both parties within 40 days and is final on the manufacturer. Honda, in this case, could not appeal if the decission is against the company, and repairs must be commenced within the performance date set by the arbitrator. Approximately two weeks subsequent to the performance date, the arbitrator contacts the car owner to verfiy that repairs have been satisfactorily completed. However, if the arbitrator's decision is not in favor of the car owner, he/she is still free to appeal by pursuing other avenues including lemon law filings and/or other civil action. (These would be at the car owner's expense unless a court assessed reasonable court costs from the car manufacturer.) There is NO cost for this service to the car owner. The manufacturer bears all costs for both the repairs and the cost(s) of binding arbitration.
Rough shifting Honda-matics are as old as Honda-matics. (though the current generation boxes from '03 onward are considerably more smoothly shifting - no doubt due to internal changes and a new ATF) Transmission slippage at only 48K miles is not normal. Make certain you're not low on ATF. If there really is a defect, you should be covered under a V6 Honda-matic warranty extension. Most owners received letters from Honda about the extended transmission warranty, but there will be some who didn't. No matter - contact the dealer, or if necessary, Honda USA.
Honda has always, and continues to favor handling over ride-comfort in Accords. Presumably you test drove an Accord prior to your purchase decision. I used to have a '96 Accord and I'm well aware of (and in agreement with) your comments about ride quality. But, the car held the road like Jack Benny held onto his coin purse. For me that was the overriding issue. If I'd wanted "luxo-smooth", I'd have bought a Camry. (Never keep a cat unless you can live with being scratched occasionally.
My question really was in regards to what I could reasonably expect the BBB to do for me in this case where the interior noise issue impacts car value.
If you are concerned that the estimate was high, you might try a non Honda repair shop. It's an easy fix that any shop or backyard mechanic could do for that matter.
Mrbill
Did they fix the problem - no - and I sold my car and took the first year's depreciation up the [non-permissible content removed]. Don't look back.
If you can afford a better car and are looking for a top of the line Accord to subsitute - it ain't going to work. The Accord is for the masses - that will believe that unacceptable noises are "characteristic".
PS - Thank God they changed the rear lights in the new model! Amen!
So I go and replace the plug wires but not with "Honda brand" plugs. I also put in a K&N air filter. The car still runs pretty rough and the tachometer sometimes can goes to 2,000 when I'm only driving 20mph, which strikes me as odd. I have no clue if this is due to bad spark plugs (which have been changed numerously over the last 3 years) or the belt really being off or what.
I also have problems with the power locks and windows not working from driver side door at times & the shifter locking up and taking at least 5 tries before the brake light comes on and the car can finally shift.
I'd trade it in, but it's paid off and if I don't have to make car payments, I'd rather not you know?
So if there is anyone who could possibly help me out here I'd really appreciate it! The vibration is my biggest concern & I'm really getting tired of what seems like I'm throwing money into a car and getting nothing out of it.
i was thinking it was the water pump not circulating, are there any sure ways to tell if thats it... ?
I keep hearing how Hondas like the kind of spark plugs they come with. I think NGK's? I remember in the "old days" how using Champion spark plugs could cause problems.
The K&N air filters are thought by most to be a waste of money.
I would take your car to either a dealer or someone whe REALLY knows Hondas and pay them to find out what is really wrong. You may not have to spend a lot of money to get it working well.
By vibration I basically mean that when driving, once I hit 55mph or so, the steering wheel starts to vibrate and it feels like the car has some kind of vibration sensation from the engine. But it also feels like it might be from the wheels. Maybe they need to be balanced after all.
As far as taking it to someone who'd know what's really wrong, that's part of the problem. Hard finding anyone in my area who I can believe. I tried looking into getting a computer diagnostic, but that costs anywhere from $70 on up around here and all the places that offer it say no codes will come up if there are no lights coming on signaling a problem.
About the K&N filters being thought of as a waste of money, I've heard different and it did seem to improve acceleration in my car. Just didn't change anything with the vibration problem.
Thanks for responding to my post though. If anyone else out there has any other helpful hints or tips to fixing this problem, I'd still be interested to hear what you have to say.
This sure sounds like a bad tire or a wheel balance problem to me.
And, sorry, but I just don't like some of the chains when it comes to repairing cars. Some of these guys like to guess a lot and throw parts at cars hoping they will find the problem.
I know there was a problem with the 2000-2001 Accord... But with the 7th generation?
Hondas/Acuras with V6 engines and 5-speed A/Ts were all recalled and examined. Affected cars had transmissions replaced (probably very few cars) and all others were fitted with a kit that increased oil flow to the gear shaft to prevent overheating. This was considered a permanent fix. Transmissions produced after the problem was discovered were redesigned to prevent the problem. Certainly, 2006 cars are not affected because the problem was engineered out of newly built A/Ts many months ago.
Four cylinder Hondas/Acuras did not share this potential problem and were not recalled. There is no reason to worry about that problem when considering an '06 Accord V6. Buyers of used, older Accords would be wise to make sure the fix was done on the car they buy.
Note that if your father is also considering the Camry, it's rumored that the 2007 Camry will be introduced early in 2006, so buy an '06 at a deep discount as it'll be obsolete soon. The '06 Accord won't be changed until late '07 when an all-new 2008 Accord is introduced.
The '06 Accord is well along in its life cycle but is a well-perfected car and perhaps a better choice than buying a Camry just before it's replaced, or when it's all-new and likely to be more troublesome than it would be after the first year............Richard
There was a recall of certain 2003 & 2004 Honda transmissions in the early Spring of 2004. There should be no concern with Accords built after that time.
ON SOME MINI VANS, SPORT UTILITY AND PASSENGER VEHICLES, CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN RESULT IN HEAT BUILD-UP BETWEEN THE COUNTERSHAFT AND SECONDARY SHAFT SECOND GEARS IN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, EVENTUALLY LEADING TO GEAR TOOTH CHIPPING OR GEAR BREAKAGE.
Defect Consequence:
GEAR FAILURE COULD RESULT IN TRANSMISSION LOCKUP, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Remedy:
ON VEHICLES WITH 15,000 MILES OR LESS, THE DEALER WILL UPDATE THE TRANSMISSION WITH A SIMPLE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE TO INCREASE LUBRICATION TO THE SECOND GEAR. ON VEHICLES WITH MORE THAN 15,000 MILES, THE DEALER WILL INSPECT THE TRANSMISSION TO IDENTIFY GEARS THAT HAVE ALREADY EXPERIENCED DISCOLORATION DUE TO OVERHEATING. IF DISCOLORATION EXISTS, THE TRANSMISSION WILL BE REPLACED IF DISCOLORATION IS NOT PRESENT, THE DEALER WILL PERFORM THE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON APRIL 21, 2004, FOR PILOT, ODYSSEY, AND MDX OWNERS. OWNERS OF THE ACCORD VEHICLES WILL START RECEIVING LETTERS ON JUNE 28, 2004, AND ON JUNE 29, 2004, FOR OWNERS OF THE TL AND CL VEHICLES. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Mark
The fillers I've used come in a toothpaste tube, and appers to be just a thickened primer. You fill the area, let it dry, then sand the spot until its level with the surrounding area. Doing this on your bumper would require you to have the whole bumper painted when your done.
The only thing I know of that you can do to touch up the chips without a total repaint would be to use a touch-up bottle. It never looks perfect, but it's better then nothing. I've found that using a toothpick to apply the paint works better for small chips than trying to use the brush in the cap. The better you do with putting paint just in the chip, the better it will look when dry. You will probably need to apply more then one coat if you want to build the paint up to the same level as the rest.
Mrbill
I have a 2003 EX with the 6 CD system. This does not include the navigation system.
Any ideas what I should do to reset the audio system?
My suggestion would be to pull the fuse for the radio, wait a minute or so, and plug it back in. The worst that could happen is that it will still show ERR-2.
My guess is the radio needs to be fully reset. A drained battery, although drained enough that the car won't start, may still have enough energy to keep the radio somewhat alive. Things like the radio code and station settings rely on constant power. I'll bet that some of the electronics in the radio may have been reset, where some may not. It's probably in some state of confusion, hence the ERR-2. It may need just a good clean power cycle, but you will need your radio codes when done.
Mrbill
Also, is it a pretty easy thing to fix or is it a very pricey thing to correct? I think that belt was changed with the timing belt, and since Honda changed it I assume if it were to be shown to be the balancer belt is off as the cause of the vibration, Honda would cover the cost.
If anyone knows though if a code would show in a computer diagnostic for the balancer belt being off, please let me know.
Thanks.
http://www.radiator.com/radiators/articles/emergency-radiator-repair.html
Why does a small leak run your radiator dry? Because when the pressure built up in the radiator reaches the limit set by the radiator cap, the cap opens and lets the coolant run into the reservoir. When the coolant in the radator cools down, the vaccum created earlier sucks the coolant back into the radiator.
If you have a leaking radiator, you know where the coolant goes when you see a steam. Soon or later, the leaked spot gets weaker and weaker, the radiator will explode!
To tell a water pump working or not, one way I can think of. When the engine is cool, open the radiator cap. Turn on the engine, rev it up. Soon as thermostat opens, you will see coolant flowing to the radiator. The engine will not get over heat when you open the cap. The engine will not reach the operating temperature. I drove my Pontiac Sunbird home with the radiator cap open when the radiator hose burst. After I refilled the radiator, of course.
Just be careful when you do this test.
i too have a 2005 EX 4 door and there seems to be several noises that i haven't been able to isolate. One noise sounds like the window is tapping something or something is tapping against the window. Another noise sounds like something is loose in the door. The other noise sounds is a creaking sound. I assumed headliner, but I can't tell. Now the sound is happening on the passenger side, but since i don't sit there i can't tell for sure.
i'm starting to think japanese quality is overrated.
end) going over small bumps or potholes at low speed.. so far Honda
nor Midas have found the problem.. :confuse:
I have had all the struts replaced..Honda and Midas inspected engine
mounts, tie rods, balljoints, sway bars, control arm bushings, coils
you name it.. and nothing showing wear..
Midas mentiond something about lubing some sway bar? but Honda said it wasnt that... and now the noise is LOUDER and more frequent with new struts!
Nothing...
Help me! and Here i thought I was a car nut(case)
Christian
jumbojetla@adelphia.net (best way to reach me)
any input from any one will be taken into consideration and is greatly appriciated.
i have a 1991 honda accord ex. about 2 weeks ago the muffler blew off. ok no biggie just wait till i got the money and replace it right. problem is that the flex joint, befor the cat, sprung a leak as well. this caused a bit off a back pressure problem. car started great but after a little while it seemed the engine would bog and stumble and continue to loose power even under light acceleration. if u pressed the gas peddle to the floor it would accelerate out of it and run fine. but eventually it would come back again forcing me to accelerate out of it again.
got the exaust fixed hoping that the issue was the back pressure lose, and the flex pipe new muffler and tail pipe would solve this problem.
but the problem still persisted!!
it was a little harder to tell but it was definitly still doing it. so i decided to ride it out till i could really start working on it. only drove it a few times.
i pulled the plugs and cleaned them up a little. they had obviously been over heated. they were a little white with some green corosion but otherwise ok. i sanded the corosion off lightly and cleaned them up and put them back in. this did not help any as the problem came back again.
today on my way into town the throttle started to do the same symptoms. power would start to lag, car would shutter a little, started to loose some power, same as usuall. so i accelerated to get threw it but the car kept shuttering threw the acceleration and sounded like real put putts. took my foot off the gas and it stopped. press the gas again and a large cloud of whitish gas comes out the back end. foot off the gas and the smoke clears. press gas again and poof another cloud of smoke and the shuddering continues.
ok so i started to pull over and the car stalls. everytime i try to restart the car its pumpin alot of white smoke out the exaust and seems to iether stumble or miss during cranking and will not start.
fun stuff huh. any advice, ideas, and or help would be appriciated.
-cs