"Does the a/c need to be on for the type of weather that we have in southern California?"
Probably not, though humid or rainy weather would be a logical exception. My '96 Accord allowed driver choice at the push of a button. The reason for even activating the A/C compressor at all in the defrost mode is to dehumidify moist air that'll be directed onto the cold windshield - even though it would be heated, the unremoved moisture content would condense on and fog the interior surface of the windshield almost immediately. I imagine Honda automated the use of the A/C compressor because of complaints from morons too lazy to read their owner's manual. Too bad - that A/C compressor button that could be activated in any ventilation mode was a handy tool to activate or disable the A/C compressor as needed.
Check the coolant level at the radiator cap when cold. The coolant level should be right up to the bottom ring inside the radiator cap opening. If it's below, or (shudder) you can see bare metal coolant channels as you look down, you don't have sufficient coolant. (and if you've lost coolant, you could well have other problems - leakage somewhere, corrosion build-up, a failing water pump, etc.) And, yes, a tanked thermostat could also be the problem as well as a faulty radiator cap or gasket. There's one other possibilty. If the last person who worked on the cooling system didn't "burp" trapped air out afterward, that could result in a too-warm running condition even if everything else is proper. That model year Honda Accord had a "burp plug" on the thermostat housing that needs to be loosened (NOT REMOVED) after refilling with fresh coolant. The procedure is to bring the engine up to normal operating temperature, leave the engine idling, and loosen the screw-in plug until only bubble-free liquid seeps out, then snug the plug back down*. There's even a nub on its top that vinyl tubing can be slipped over to direct the flow into an empty container to avoid making any mess in the engine bay.
*Careful, here - the plug threads into aluminum so don't go "iron-man" with the torque; it could cost you a new thermostat housing because of stripped threads.
I have a 2000 Accord EX-V6 with about 60K miles. Just had the same problem yesterday. All the lights came on and a rumbling was heard in front. Went to my local repair shop which has worked on my car since I got it. All told, they installed a rebuilt alternator ($241 for part), and was about $100 labor. Was told alternators can go in 30K miles or 100K, really depends.
Read on another forum that several Accord V6 owners had the same problem with the alternator around 60K miles.
i have an 04 accord v6 with cracking leather on the drivers side back bolster. i know for a fact honda has used inferior leather in their seats, the leather is paper thin or thinner. had the back seat replaced because of leaking seal under seat honda replaced it but before they did i pulled a piece off ( it was peeling up anyway ) and tried to see if it melted (as in vinyl ) or burned ( as in leather ) and it melted. this was not leather in the sitting area of the seat! false advertising ? you bet! anyway honda saw the cracking and agreed to put bondo inthe cracks and paint my front seats. this is unexceptabe in a new car 1 year old with 12000 miles. any advice or direction would be appreciated
I found polyfoam in the window insulation area of lowes. Its a roll of 3/8, round material, fairly soft. Im sure it can be trimmed a little to fit and for $2.95 i'll keep it in the turnk with the jumper cables, just incase! 90% of the noise went away by correctly lubing the body seals and the dealer replacing the run channels, but now you can hear some backround noises in the car that you never noticed. Once I think I heard the window, but it didnt qualify as a rattle or creak. Guess I'll just have to drive back to Manhatten to confirm!
Did you ever find out what the problem was? I have a 1995 Honda Accord 5 speed manual transmission and we have the same shudder which is most noticeable when accelerating around 2000 RPM.
They are going to patch the crack with Bondo??? I doubt that it's what they would use, Bondo does not flex, so it would fail quickly. To me, painting a repaired section of the vinyl seat would be unacceptable. I have seen repainted seats, and it doesn't last!!
I would contact Honda, explain what the dealer is going to do, and ask if that's an acceptable repair solution. Being on the driver's seat, it gets the most wear, so it will fail in a short time. I would push to at least have the seat cover removed, and a new section sewn in. Any auto upholstery shop can make the repair, Honda should at least do that, or at most, have the whole seatcover or seat replaced.
I'm wondering what reliable sources you've researched to be able to "know for a fact honda has used inferior leather in their seats, the leather is paper thin or thinner".
My 2004 Accord, with over 20,000 miles, has leather seats that are in perfect condition.
Ok I drive a new 2005 Honda Accord V-6 Coupe. I was driving one day and I was listening to my CD's and all of a sudden my CD player just mutes. Like the noise just shuts off, but when I look at the center console my volume is still at #15. So I pushed the fast forward button and it came back on. The cd I was listening to was new, and it wasn't a burnt CD. Anybody have any issues with their CD player? :confuse:
Oh yeah BTW, anybody having these rattling issues on the right side of the car. I have the silver trim interior. I think it might be from the trim.
I have 220,000 kms on my 97 accord SE. I have changed out timing belt, eater pump, starter, 2 wheel bearings, brakes and rotors, a radiator and 2 cv boots and a front motor mount. I would like to keep my car to 400,000 kms. As I live in Toronto and out winters here are terrible. Is there other maintenance issues I should look at, maybe synthetic oil or transmission work. My car does shift a tad bit harshly but that seems to be a problem with the honda automatics. I also have some squeeks coming from the car when cold especially when going over bumps maybe suspension which are still to my knowledge original. Also has anybody used Lucas products before Transmission Fix, Oil Stabilizers etc.. Are they any good or are they snake oil? Any help or answers would be appreciated. Thank you
Have you FLUSHED THE TRANSMISSION? If not, you really, and I mean REALLY need to do it.... And not just drain it, FLUSH it, using a special machine that pushes the old fluid out and replaces it with new one. Should cost about US $100.
My '95 V6 Accord shifts smother now, after I did the flush at 77,000 miles.
blane, the fact is i know my car has inferior leather because my dealer has agreed to spend money to resolve this problem, along with an upholstery/trim shop who have diagnosed this problem. honda needs to step up and admit to using pleather (acombination of vinyl and leather ). i also have a 97 suburban with real leather , it has its own personality of folds and creases but no cracks or splits ,the creases have fuzzy edges typical of 1oo% leather. these cracks or splits in my seats are only typical of vinyl, leather doesnt break like this. honda wont replace my seat covers because it would start a costly trend they want no part of. honda has also reworded their window invoices to read leather trimmed seats on 06 models. so i am stuck with shredded seats or peeling painted seats inthe years to come. i would look real close to those perfect condition seats you have, you might be surprised.
I believe that you will find that the vast majority of vehicle manufacturers (except those at the highest priced end of the market) use the term"leather trim" or "leather trimmed". Check their websites.
If either a vinyl or leather surface can be proven "defective", rather than damaged due to wear and tear, and the vehicle is still under warranty, the manufacturer will surely resolve the matter to your satisfaction. That still does not make your "I know for a fact honda has used inferior leather in their seats, the leather is paper thin or thinner" comment any more valid.
Since someone will ask sooner or later, here's the answer.
To disable the daytime running lights on a American (non Canadian) 2006 Accord:
Remove fuse #3 from the interior fuse box. The interior fuse box is located in front of the foot rest to the left of the brake pedal (shown on page 257 of your owners manual). There is an easy-to-remove panel to access it.
Fuse #3 is on the bottom row, third from the left (fuse diagram shown on page 261 of your owners manual).
This should be a 10 amp fuse.
One minor issue, you will have to live with a small yellow "DRL" light on your instrument panel, which is telling you that the system has detected a problem with your daytime running lights. This will show up in the daytime, but not at night when your headlights are on. This does not bother me personally, but you should be aware of this.
I have done this successfully on my 2006 Accord LX four door. The biggest issue I personally had with the DRL was that I could not run the ventilation system with the car parked (engine off) - without the DRL lights on as well - which seems an unnecessary drain on the battery.
I'm sure there are other ways, but I doubt they would be as simple as this.
What IDIOT would want to disable a safety feature like DRLs! I wrote to Honda more than once to get this feature included. I've finally got it on my 06 Accord.
There are fools out there that would like to disable airbags, seat belts and the like. One word, DON'T!
It probably wouldn't matter to me on the INSIDE of the car. But I absolutely hate looking down the road and being distracted by other cars' DRLs heading in my direction. That's much less than safe in my opinion. Yes, yes... I've read some of the studies. I just don't like looking towards them and I'd rather them not be on my car.
blane, my comment about " i know for a fact " really gets under your skin. i only know for a fact that my car seats have inferior leather because i have seen it peel up with my own eyes! i cant help but wonder if you are employed by honda. dont get me wrong i have been a satisfied customer of honda for over 30, yes thats right 30 years! and this is the only time that honda wont stand behind their product!
No, I do not work for Honda, nor do I have any other affilliation with the automotive field. However when you wrote:"I know for a fact honda has used inferior leather in their seats, the leather is paper thin or thinner" that makes no sense. All that you know about the subject is that there is a problem with ONE SPECIFIC CAR.
There are obvious variations in the thickness of the hides of animals. It is possible that the one particular cow, who's hide was used in one specific seat, in one specific vehicle, may have been slightly thinner in one specific section.
A sampling of one, of anything, is statistically meaningless. That does not make your statement any more correct.
The confusion here came about because a prior post by you indicated that under no circumstances should a person drive more than 3,750 miles before the first oil change. That statement is true only if you must follow the "severe" maintenance schedule for a V6-engined Accord. Otherwise, you can wait until 5,000 (severe 4cyl.), 7,500 (normal V6) or 10,000 (normal 4cyl.).
I am always cautious shutting off the engine before the needle hitting the redline, sometime even in front of traffic lights. When the car is running on the road, the air blows into hood to cool down the engine so it seems fine.
I noticed the coolant kept losing after I filled up for 2-3 days. But I don't see any leaks 'cause there were no any marks underneath my car when parking.
It seems there so many possibilities could be happened. I noticed these days that the coolant kept losing after I just filled up for 2-3 day. But I really don't observe any leaks 'cause there is no any water mark underneath my car while parking.
1) 3yrs ago, I had new radiator and thermostat changed because of my carelessness, radiator neck(?) exploded while I was driving.
2) one year ago, I had a few things changed by a mechanic, which they were all related to cooling system. Like lower radiator, thermostat seal, water outlet, gasket, coolant hose and radiator caps....I remembered I refuse to let them do washup system since it was costly.
Now, similar problems are coming back. But I will try the steps you as you said. Qs, do I need to open the thermostat housing to do the 'burping' thing? The last statement you said about plug thread, I could use WD-40, right? If it is so rusted.
Since you are losing coolant and see no puddles under the car (you don't mention if you see any crusty coolant stains anywhere, but assuming you don't), I'd start to suspect that the head gasket is leaking.
I'm having the sporadic starting problem with my 98 accord- just wondering if anyone has pinpointed this problem (I've seen some older discussions about this)- going down the list of possible solutions is expensive!! I've had the computer replaced, the catalytic converter replaced, the distributor...what next?!? It still randomly doesn't start- when I turn the key, the radio comes on and the power windows work. It "cranks" (no idea about the terminology??) but it doesn't "catch"- it's like a chug, chug, chug....but no va-voom...sorry, I'm a girl.
I guess I can say Honda has great leather. I've owned 3 EX-L's of this generation Accord and haven't had a single problem with the leather. 2 sedans and a coupe. The first sedan made in Japan.
But then again I haven't taken a micrometer to it to measure its thickness though.
Agree - except I'm not "starting" to suspect a blown head gasket at all. I'm already there. That the shop which did the prior cooling system work advised a cooling system flush suggests that they were confident of accumulated corrosion - which inevitably affects the coolant chemistry. Not heeding their advice only succeeded in allowing a nasty process to continue unabated. Corrosion and damage to a cylinder head gasket ultimately allows glycol to leak into one or more cylinders. The coolant leakage can end up in two places - out the exhaust, and past the piston rings into the oil sump. It does both. Glycol, the main component in antifreeze, is very corrosive to lead-faced babbit bearings (mains and connecting rod). This sad tale could easily turn out to already be a terribly expensive nightmare.
Thank you Plethysmo and haefr for responding to my email. I am going to try to see if I can program my Accord so that the A/C does not come on automatically. Hopefully I will do it successfully and will be able to get better gas mileage. Thanks again! Lea
I've been reading the threads on when one should have the first oil change. I have the 2005 4-cyl Accord coupe and am still confused. I am going to use the severe schedule (every 5,000 miles) for oil changes but need to know if the first oil change should be at 5,000 or 10,000 miles. According to the threads, Honda has put in additives and did not want us to change oil too soon. So, at what mileage should the FIRST oil change be done? Thanks all, Lea
I have a little over 32K and the dealer said it was something like $150 to change this filter. I have a hard time believing this. Anyone ever done this themself? How do I do it and how much is the part? Please advise.
Is this a very serious problem? If everything matches what you two said, so what can I do with it? If it can be saved.
Does the car shake when starting engine related to the coolant leaking into cylinders? Under the conditions... I changed spark plugs, plug wires, rotor and caps a week ago, but still shakes with check light on for over a week. Combine this symptoms, can you make another inference on my overheat problem if they're related? Sorry for my lack of knowledge.
If i can do something or throw it in the garbage can with only 75,000miles.
blane, seems to me there are two of us that have this same problem not one! do you see a trend starting? dont be so closed minded, it may save you from getting stuck on one phrase again! honda has real problems with their leather and they dont care, and i am proof.
The filter is about $16.00 (aftermarket) and takes about one minute to install. The procedure is in your owners manual. That dealer is unethical to say the least.
Considering how many Accords Honda sells and has sold I would think any trend indicating bad leather would have materialized here by now. Especially when you consider all the members that come here to complain about their V6 transmission. Since nearly every V6 has leather, there is a glaring lack of leather complaints. Far fewer than the number you would probably need to say "Honda" as a manufacturer has problematic leather. In fact it would be a grand stretch to even assert Accords have this issue.
Compare the leather "issue" to the "rear brakes wearing out first" situation and you'll see a glaring discrepancy. The brakes show a much stronger trend.
10,000 miles or ONE YEAR for normal use. I drive very little and had way under 5,000 miles on my Accord after a year, but had oil changed because it had been ONE YEAR since buying the car. That's what the manual said to do an it and I chose to follow the manual.
Do what the owner's manual says because it was written by Honda and Honda built and tested the car.
Dealers often say to change oil at 3,750 miles and that makes good sense if you want the dealer to make some extra money.
Go behind your dealer's building and look for a test track there. See the laboratory where the dealer's scientists examine used oil under a microscope to chart the effects of engine wear as related to used oil.
Oh, my goodness--the dealer doesn't have a test track nor scientific lab? Then maybe the Honda Accord owner's manual is the best source for oil change information ........Richard
Some of the features on the new, '06 Accord are appealing to me, and seem like SOFTWARE related, rather than hardware...
So the question is, could I (my dealer, of course) upgrade my '05 to use some of the new features the '06 has? DRL could certainly be appreciated, for instance.... But there must be more.
i have seen a lot of people having problems starting there accords. see if you can figure out my problem.
I have a new starter, battery, and alternator but my car wont start. I have been driving it anyway knowing that push starting a car for a long time will possibly hurt something. the only thing that i can figure is that the starter is bad again but before i go out and replace the starter for the third time i was hopping that someone would know more about what to do.
When i turn the key i can hear the gear from the starter engage but it wont turn over. at first i just had to turn the key a million and one times then it would finly turn over but that quit too.
i hate to replace the starter again because its brand new anyone have any advice??
I know this isn't breaking news, but I have a 2003 Accord V6 with 74,600 miles on the odometer, and the transmission just failed. I drove 75 miles on the highway last weekend, and when I got off the highway the transmission was slipping so bad that I had to pull over and let it cool off. I can drive it for 30 miles or so, but it starts slipping again once it warms up.
I took it into a dealer for the recall inspection, and they installed the oil injector and said that second gear is fine. They have contacted Honda America to see if they will replace the transmission, but if not I am looking at "about $5000" to replace it, according to the dealer. I've heard that Honda has been replacing transmissions on 2003 Accords that fail prematurely -- is this true? I hope so. I've never heard of a automatic transmission failing at less than 100,000 miles, and most go well beyond that.
I drive about 25,000 miles a year, and 90% of that is on the highway with the cruise control set to 65 mph. This would seem to me to be a very light load on the transmission, so I have to assume that the problem has to do with heat build up inside the transmission. The recommended fluid change on the transmission fluid is 100,000 miles according to the owner's manual, but it looks dirty, and the dealer said it should be changed every 30,000 miles. Why the discrepancy? Could this be a misprint in the manual?
Any info on this situation would be appreciated. I searched through old posts, but there are so many of them that I'm sure I missed a lot.
I did check in the owners manual but must have missed it. I take it the filter is located behind the glove box. I'll see what the dealer charges for the replacement filter and do it myself then. Thanks!
Hee hee, I was wondering when this would appear. I read some time ago that Honda was planning to put DTR's on the '06. Hondaman12, there is an entire culture in this country fanatically opposed to them. They imagine themselves as fierce defenders of freedom and individualism. DTR's don't give you a choice (unless you disable them) and are usually coupled with auto-on headlights.
I had both on my last Toyota and really never thought all that much about it. It did strike me as odd, at first, that someone else was deciding when my headlights should go on...and that business about not being able to turn your headlights off at night when stopped and idling. I got over it quick when I saw the safety discount on my insurance bill.
There is accident avoidance from having them on. There are many times I've seen a car coming at an intersection that had DRLs or its headlights on that blended in with the background, green, white, etc. I hate to think I might not have seen the car on a second glance before pulling out, but I saw the car early and that's safety. I've seen oncoming cars on two lane highways easily because of their DRLs or headlights on. The fact I see them early and easily means I don't try to pass the semi at 53 mph while a distant car without DRLs means I will start a pass. I am especially careful because the Ohio State Patrol runs routes on many of our local two lane highways and high speed for passing can earn a ticket.
I am also TOTALLY BAFFLED, why would anybody be making all this effort at disabling DRL....
Since leasing my first Camry, in 1993, I haven't EVER TOUCHED the light switch in ANY of my cars... When I bought my used '95 Accord I actually paid an extra $250 to install DRL. With my new '05 I simply leave the lights on to be shut off automatically. I wish I could upgrade it to a true DRL (see my message above, #12575)...
For the past 12 years I never had to worry about leaving the lights on at the end of the day, or bother to remember to put the lights on during a rain or snow storm...
How many accidents occur every year because some ignorant (or rather IDIOTIC) drivers, driving in a blinding rain storm, do not realize they need to put their lights on? How many drivers simply forget to put their light on even though it's dark already?
In many European countries its against the law to drive without your headlights on.
I can't understand people who are against DRL. Really...
Blane, if you are bothered by the glare of incoming vehicles during the DAY, what do you do during the NIGHT?.... Do you shut your eyes every time there is a car coming down the road toward you?....
Don't you see the advantage of having the lights on when driving in rain?
The TRUE kind of DRL has a LOW BEAM during the day, which changes to a regular intensity at night. That's what I had in all of my 3 Camry cars, since 1993.
This whole anti-DRL wave remind me of those "civil rights warriors" who are fighting against the Seat Belt laws, or those bikers who insist it's their right to drive without helmets...
....Or this woman I used to work with, who was persistently angry at people who would greet her with "How are you" in the morning, claiming it's an intrusion on her privacy, and "none of their business"....
Comments
Probably not, though humid or rainy weather would be a logical exception. My '96 Accord allowed driver choice at the push of a button. The reason for even activating the A/C compressor at all in the defrost mode is to dehumidify moist air that'll be directed onto the cold windshield - even though it would be heated, the unremoved moisture content would condense on and fog the interior surface of the windshield almost immediately. I imagine Honda automated the use of the A/C compressor because of complaints from morons too lazy to read their owner's manual. Too bad - that A/C compressor button that could be activated in any ventilation mode was a handy tool to activate or disable the A/C compressor as needed.
*Careful, here - the plug threads into aluminum so don't go "iron-man" with the torque; it could cost you a new thermostat housing because of stripped threads.
Read on another forum that several Accord V6 owners had the same problem with the alternator around 60K miles.
Did you ever find out what the problem was? I have a 1995 Honda Accord 5 speed manual transmission and we have the same shudder which is most noticeable when accelerating around 2000 RPM.
I would contact Honda, explain what the dealer is going to do, and ask if that's an acceptable repair solution. Being on the driver's seat, it gets the most wear, so it will fail in a short time. I would push to at least have the seat cover removed, and a new section sewn in. Any auto upholstery shop can make the repair, Honda should at least do that, or at most, have the whole seatcover or seat replaced.
Mrbill
I'm wondering what reliable sources you've researched to be able to "know for a fact honda has used inferior leather in their seats, the leather is paper thin or thinner".
My 2004 Accord, with over 20,000 miles, has leather seats that are in perfect condition.
Oh yeah BTW, anybody having these rattling issues on the right side of the car. I have the silver trim interior. I think it might be from the trim.
My '95 V6 Accord shifts smother now, after I did the flush at 77,000 miles.
I believe that you will find that the vast majority of vehicle manufacturers (except those at the highest priced end of the market) use the term"leather trim" or "leather trimmed". Check their websites.
If either a vinyl or leather surface can be proven "defective", rather than damaged due to wear and tear, and the vehicle is still under warranty, the manufacturer will surely resolve the matter to your satisfaction. That still does not make your "I know for a fact honda has used inferior leather in their seats, the leather is paper thin or thinner" comment any more valid.
To disable the daytime running lights on a American (non Canadian) 2006 Accord:
Remove fuse #3 from the interior fuse box. The interior fuse box is located in front of the foot rest to the left of the brake pedal (shown on page 257 of your owners manual). There is an easy-to-remove panel to access it.
Fuse #3 is on the bottom row, third from the left (fuse diagram shown on page 261 of your owners manual).
This should be a 10 amp fuse.
One minor issue, you will have to live with a small yellow "DRL" light on your instrument panel, which is telling you that the system has detected a problem with your daytime running lights. This will show up in the daytime, but not at night when your headlights are on. This does not bother me personally, but you should be aware of this.
I have done this successfully on my 2006 Accord LX four door. The biggest issue I personally had with the DRL was that I could not run the ventilation system with the car parked (engine off) - without the DRL lights on as well - which seems an unnecessary drain on the battery.
I'm sure there are other ways, but I doubt they would be as simple as this.
Steve
There are fools out there that would like to disable airbags, seat belts and the like. One word, DON'T!
It probably wouldn't matter to me on the INSIDE of the car. But I absolutely hate looking down the road and being distracted by other cars' DRLs heading in my direction. That's much less than safe in my opinion. Yes, yes... I've read some of the studies. I just don't like looking towards them and I'd rather them not be on my car.
I think they make a car look aggressive in a funny cross-eyed way.
No, I do not work for Honda, nor do I have any other affilliation with the automotive field. However when you wrote:"I know for a fact honda has used inferior leather in their seats, the leather is paper thin or thinner" that makes no sense. All that you know about the subject is that there is a problem with ONE SPECIFIC CAR.
There are obvious variations in the thickness of the hides of animals. It is possible that the one particular cow, who's hide was used in one specific seat, in one specific vehicle, may have been slightly thinner in one specific section.
A sampling of one, of anything, is statistically meaningless. That does not make your statement any more correct.
Then he's entitled to state his opinion in this forum.
When all the people state Honda has transmission problems in the forums, people don't say it's not true because that person is only a sample of one.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I am always cautious shutting off the engine before the needle hitting the redline, sometime even in front of traffic lights. When the car is running on the road, the air blows into hood to cool down the engine so it seems fine.
I noticed the coolant kept losing after I filled up for 2-3 days. But I don't see any leaks 'cause there were no any marks underneath my car when parking.
Thanks for your reply.
shadingding2
It seems there so many possibilities could be happened. I noticed these days that the coolant kept losing after I just filled up for 2-3 day. But I really don't observe any leaks 'cause there is no any water mark underneath my car while parking.
1) 3yrs ago, I had new radiator and thermostat changed because of my carelessness, radiator neck(?) exploded while I was driving.
2) one year ago, I had a few things changed by a mechanic, which they were all related to cooling system. Like lower radiator, thermostat seal, water outlet, gasket, coolant hose and radiator caps....I remembered I refuse to let them do washup system since it was costly.
Now, similar problems are coming back. But I will try the steps you as you said.
Qs, do I need to open the thermostat housing to do the 'burping' thing? The last statement you said about plug thread, I could use WD-40, right? If it is so rusted.
Thanks again
shadingding2
Please help!!!
But then again I haven't taken a micrometer to it to measure its thickness though.
Is this a very serious problem? If everything matches what you two said, so what can I do with it? If it can be saved.
Does the car shake when starting engine related to the coolant leaking into cylinders? Under the conditions... I changed spark plugs, plug wires, rotor and caps a week ago, but still shakes with check light on for over a week. Combine this symptoms, can you make another inference on my overheat problem if they're related? Sorry for my lack of knowledge.
If i can do something or throw it in the garbage can with only 75,000miles.
Please advise me.
shadingding2
Compare the leather "issue" to the "rear brakes wearing out first" situation and you'll see a glaring discrepancy. The brakes show a much stronger trend.
I would go back to the dealer and talk to the service manager (at least) and tell them what you were told. $150 is way out of line.
Mrbill
Do what the owner's manual says because it was written by Honda and Honda built and tested the car.
Dealers often say to change oil at 3,750 miles and that makes good sense if you want the dealer to make some extra money.
Go behind your dealer's building and look for a test track there. See the laboratory where the dealer's scientists examine used oil under a microscope to chart the effects of engine wear as related to used oil.
Oh, my goodness--the dealer doesn't have a test track nor scientific lab?
Then maybe the Honda Accord owner's manual is the best source for oil change information
So the question is, could I (my dealer, of course) upgrade my '05 to use some of the new features the '06 has? DRL could certainly be appreciated, for instance.... But there must be more.
I have a new starter, battery, and alternator but my car wont start. I have been driving it anyway knowing that push starting a car for a long time will possibly hurt something. the only thing that i can figure is that the starter is bad again but before i go out and replace the starter for the third time i was hopping that someone would know more about what to do.
When i turn the key i can hear the gear from the starter engage but it wont turn over. at first i just had to turn the key a million and one times then it would finly turn over but that quit too.
i hate to replace the starter again because its brand new anyone have any advice??
I took it into a dealer for the recall inspection, and they installed the oil injector and said that second gear is fine. They have contacted Honda America to see if they will replace the transmission, but if not I am looking at "about $5000" to replace it, according to the dealer. I've heard that Honda has been replacing transmissions on 2003 Accords that fail prematurely -- is this true? I hope so. I've never heard of a automatic transmission failing at less than 100,000 miles, and most go well beyond that.
I drive about 25,000 miles a year, and 90% of that is on the highway with the cruise control set to 65 mph. This would seem to me to be a very light load on the transmission, so I have to assume that the problem has to do with heat build up inside the transmission. The recommended fluid change on the transmission fluid is 100,000 miles according to the owner's manual, but it looks dirty, and the dealer said it should be changed every 30,000 miles. Why the discrepancy? Could this be a misprint in the manual?
Any info on this situation would be appreciated. I searched through old posts, but there are so many of them that I'm sure I missed a lot.
http://www.lightsout.org/
I had both on my last Toyota and really never thought all that much about it. It did strike me as odd, at first, that someone else was deciding when my headlights should go on...and that business about not being able to turn your headlights off at night when stopped and idling. I got over it quick when I saw the safety discount on my insurance bill.
There is accident avoidance from having them on. There are many times I've seen a car coming at an intersection that had DRLs or its headlights on that blended in with the background, green, white, etc. I hate to think I might not have seen the car on a second glance before pulling out, but I saw the car early and that's safety. I've seen oncoming cars on two lane highways easily because of their DRLs or headlights on. The fact I see them early and easily means I don't try to pass the semi at 53 mph while a distant car without DRLs means I will start a pass. I am especially careful because the Ohio State Patrol runs routes on many of our local two lane highways and high speed for passing can earn a ticket.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Since leasing my first Camry, in 1993, I haven't EVER TOUCHED the light switch in ANY of my cars... When I bought my used '95 Accord I actually paid an extra $250 to install DRL. With my new '05 I simply leave the lights on to be shut off automatically. I wish I could upgrade it to a true DRL (see my message above, #12575)...
For the past 12 years I never had to worry about leaving the lights on at the end of the day, or bother to remember to put the lights on during a rain or snow storm...
How many accidents occur every year because some ignorant (or rather IDIOTIC) drivers, driving in a blinding rain storm, do not realize they need to put their lights on? How many drivers simply forget to put their light on even though it's dark already?
In many European countries its against the law to drive without your headlights on.
I can't understand people who are against DRL. Really...
Hermann
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Don't you see the advantage of having the lights on when driving in rain?
The TRUE kind of DRL has a LOW BEAM during the day, which changes to a regular intensity at night. That's what I had in all of my 3 Camry cars, since 1993.
This whole anti-DRL wave remind me of those "civil rights warriors" who are fighting against the Seat Belt laws, or those bikers who insist it's their right to drive without helmets...
....Or this woman I used to work with, who was persistently angry at people who would greet her with "How are you" in the morning, claiming it's an intrusion on her privacy, and "none of their business"....