Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

spokane · July 2001

Your symptoms indicate a failed Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or the wiring for the VSS. This is the device on the transmission and it is easy to replace. If your problem were in the speedometer itself, you would not have the "check engine" indicator. Good luck.

jbarbuto1 · July 2001

I just bought a former lease 98' Accord LX 4 cylinder with only 15,000 miles on it (for only $13,500). I just got the 30k service due to age of the vehicle and concern over knock and ping. I get the knock and ping noise unless I use high octane gas (90+). Honda suggested using Techron by Chevron (gas treatment), but after two treatments, I still have the noise under slightly above average throttle load and especially before gear changes. The noise is crazy making! Honda doesn't have an answer and I have no engine warning lights. Any ideas out there??? Am I going to have to use expensive high octane gas forever??

I also have the knock at start up. Should I worry about this?

qualityguy · July 2001

If anybody can help me out here - I have problem starting my car after it sits in the sun for a while. Starter is doing it's best, it feels like the engine catches up, but it doesn't. Then after a while, it starts. But the problem gets worse. Please help!!!

maq4463 · July 2001

Gyiltguy,

I had the exact same problem with my 90 Accord and from the web found out that the cause is "Main Fuel Realy". I bought it from hparts.com from around $38 but ironically since I got it, the problem has almost disappeared although I still plan to replace mine once I get the chace. I tried to figure out where it is located (its under the driver side dash but I could figure it out. Best of luck

fritz1224 · July 2001

Thanks for the reply. The bolt I was referring to has a flange (or washer) incorporated with the head of the bolt. There is not a replaceable crush washer. It's not leaking and I have since quit worrying about it. I just won't be draining the engine block for future coolant changes.
The other question was about that micro filter for the ventilation system. Honda recommends changing every 30k/24mos. If it isn't done, can they refuse a warranty claim if A/C were to act up(have the 7yr/100k Hondacare esp)? Seems to be a rather hard job and dealership wants over $100 to do it. I realize warranty claims aren't your field of expertise, so if you don't care to speculate that's fine. Replacing that filter is a pretty time consuming job, though, isn't it?

k103 · July 2001

Does $50 dollars sound about right to have the transmission fluid changed, done by the dealer on a 98 Accord? Will they get most of the old fluid out or just what is near the plug? I have gotten mixed comments as others have indicated that to do it right, they need to get all of the fluid throughout the system. Give my your thoughts.

redishme · July 2001

I bought my 2001 accord V6 in Feburary. Fully loaded, with leather. It runs
perfectly. But just as it reaches 7,000 miles (right after i did the first
oil change), i can hear a very loud clunk sound when i shift from D to R,
only D to R, but normal from P to D, D to R, R to D, or any other shifts.
It's actually very loud. like a loud slapping sound. I had taken it to the
Service and left there. They called me and told me that sound is normal.
They don't know why it doesn't make the noise before but started now, or why
is it only loud from D to R, and they don't know what to fix it. I don't know what to say, so i am just driving with it, other than that, everything else is
wonderful with this car. If anyone else has this problem or comments, please
reply. Thanks!

fritz1224 · July 2001

$50 dollars is about right when having the dealer do it. I paid $48 plus other fees for waste disposal, etc. Not a hard job from what I saw, but may not be as thorough as you are talking about. They just loosened a drain plug and drained it. Then refilled. There's a magnet on the bolt that's supposed to pick up any metal shavings. No filter or pan to drop.
I'll probably do the next one myself after another 30k miles or so.
Didn't watch them refill it, but I think there's probably two possible locations. The dipstick tube or a port on top of the tranny with a bolt in it marked "ATF"

qualityguy · July 2001

I tried to start my car today, and had the same problem. It blew my gasket, I went right to a dealer and got the part for $50. I don't know what is the right way to replace the relay, but it looks like you have to take off the whole dashboard. I don't have patience for that, so I simply disconnected the wires from relay and broke the old relay. Didn't put the new back in place yet, but I guess, I'll put it in any free space. If anybody knows a better way to change the relay, pls advise. From what I went through today - under the dashboard - the dealer is well worth 150 bucks he is asking.

auburn63 · July 2001

Not changing that filter should not change the warranty on system. The exception being poor performance and the filter being the cause but thats unlikely. The filter is not all that bad but you do have to remove the glove box to get to it. I forget ( I have only changed 2) if you have to cut or bend the glove box cross pad but other than that tight fit it just slides in and out. I think I was able to work it out without cutting but I will check the book and get back to you..

briken9 · July 2001

re: post 1409. I have the same EXACT experience with my 2001 EX V6. I have 7300 miles on it. I hesitate to call it a problem since, as you say, everything else is fine and it does not mainifest itself into a noticable issue when driving. I have noticed that if I shift to R very slowly and deliberatley then there is no sound. Same with you? I have not gone to the dealer yet. I imagine they will tell me the same thing. I can't really afford to leave my car in there for a day. Have to drive to work each day. This was a wierd post since your car is the same as mine, same miles, same issue. Tell me yours is emerald green, tan interior, with a spoiler.

truck96 · July 2001

Sorry i posted this in the sedan group also and noticed this was the problem board, any info would be appreciated.
I just bought a new Accord ex 4cyl auto, 1500 miles so far and I love it, but it has a small vibration at about 60mph, and if you are going uphill and into a turn at the same time the torque of the engine and the turning of the wheel seems to make the small vibration a little worse. Now my wife says she doesn't feel it but I can, it isn't the steering wheel wobbling back and forth just a vibration you can feel from the steering wheel. We test drove a standard shift and it didnt feel like this. I took it back once and they rebalanced all tires and found one 10 grams off but the vibration is still there. I'm going to take it back next off day what do you think it is or is it suppose to be a small vibration since it is auto front wheel drive. this is my 1st small car so I don't really no. I think it is a cv joint bad or something rotating out of balance but I really don't like the idea of them mechanics replacing alot of parts on my new car.
Thanks for any advice
Greg

dc_sports_rule · July 2001

Maybe one of your rims is bent?

daysailer · July 2001

The Honda auto-transmisission is a different design from most (see daysailer "Honda/Acura Automatic Transmission Design - Unique?" Jul 14, 2001 5:18am ). In other auto-transmissions the shift to reverse is accomplished similar to all other shifts, by selectively engaging clutches and brake bands. In past Honda transmissions (I assume the V6 is similar), all shifts EXCEPT reverse are accomplished by selective clutch engagement (there are no bands), but reverse is engaged by a fork and sliding collar similar to a manual transmission. This mechanism has the potential to be noisier (or at least sound different) than the operation of clutches, so as compared to other cars, I would expect the shift to and from reverse to sound different. As for why it would sound different over time, I have no idea.

I don't have a Honda automatic, but I'm inclined to think that the "clunk" when engaging reverse MAY BE normal and perhaps, as others have suggested, some owners may be sensitized to it after reading other's comments in forums such as this. In any case I would be surprised if it didn't sound different from planetary gear transmissions as used in other cars.

jbarbuto1 · July 2001

I just bought a former lease 98' Accord LX 4 cylinder with only 15,000 miles on it (for only $13,500). I just got the 30k service due to age of the vehicle and concern over knock and ping. I get the knock and ping noise unless I use high octane gas (90+). Honda suggested using Techron by Chevron (gas treatment), but after two treatments, I still have the noise under slightly above average throttle load and especially before gear changes. The noise is crazy making! Honda doesn't have an answer and I have no engine warning lights. Any ideas out there??? Am I going to have to use expensive high octane gas forever??

I've read about people who had a rattling noise and it turned out to be the transmission. Does this sound possible? Please say no.

I also have the knock at start up. Should I worry about this?

hpare · July 2001

I OWN A 98 AND A 95 LX SEDANS. I LOVE MY 98! i HAVE HOWEVER HAD A FEW STRANGE PROBLEMS THAT CONCERN ME. AT 45000 MILES MY CATALYTIC CONVERTER WENT ON THE 98. IT ALL STARTED WHEN MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. THEY TRIED TO TELL ME TO TIGHTEN THE GAS CAP-WELL THE LIGHT ACTUALLY WENT OFF. A WEEK OR SO LATER IT CAME BACK ON. AND AFTER PLAYING THAT GAME 3 OR 4 TIMES I FINALLY GOT SICK OF IT AND DEMANDED THAT THEY CHECK IT OUT. THANK HEAVENS I DID BECAUSE HAD I WAITED MUCH LONGER IT WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THEN 2 MONTHS LATER THE LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN THIS TIME SOME SORT OF SEAL WENT IN THE VTEC ENGINE(SOMETHING OR OTHER-I AM NOT SURE OF EXACT WORDING) THAT COST ME $350 TO GET FIXED. SHOULD I GET RID OF THIS CAR BEFORE SOMETHING WORSE GOES ON IT?

TO TOP THINGS OFF I WAS IN THE DEALERSHIP THE OTHER DAY STANDING AT THE COUNTER OF THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT AND THE TECHNICIAN WAS ON THE PHONE SAYING " I HAVE NO IDEA WHY IT HAPPENED, IN ALL MY YEARS HERE AT HONDA I HAVE NEVER SEEN ACATALYTIC CONVERTER GO ON A 98 ACCORD" I ALMOST JUMPED OVER THE COUNTER TO PULL THE PHONE AWAY FROM HER! AFTER SHE GOT OFF THE PHONE I SAID" I OVER HEARD YOUR CONVERSATION AND I FIND IT FUNNY THAT JUST A FEW WEEKS AGO THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER WENT ON MY 98 ACCORD AND YOU PEOPLE TOLD ME THAT SAME THING!"
SHE COULDN'T BELIEVE IT. SHE ACTUALLY PULLED MY PROFILE UP ON THE SCREEN, SHE TURNED RED,RED,RED!

fritz1224 · July 2001

Only replaced 2? I guess not many people have this done. I will probably wait longer than the manual suggests before replacing, unless air flow seems to be decreasing. Thanks.

pblevine · July 2001

My driver's seat seems to move backwards a little at a time from where ever I set it. This is on a '98 Coupe EX V6. Has anyone else had this problem and does anyone know what I should do about it?

carguy62 · July 2001

Well I guess we all learn something. The dealer kept insisting it was the temp gauge that was bad, not a sensor, etc. And I guess they were right. They replaced the gauge and now it seems to work fine. I know they replaced it because they gave me back the old one and now I have a nice white fuel/temp gauge where the others have yellowed over time. Of course the fuel gauge (all part of what was replaced) doesn't seem to work right and I could swear my low fuel light didn't come on when normally it would have but hey I was glad to just get out of there with a running car. This is why I avoid having work done, anywhere. It's worked pretty well for 12 years. Thanks for the help, especially auburn as usual.

jeffreygent · July 2001

I have a 1995 accord vtec that also makes the knock and ping noise. As you have said high octance fuel makes it go away. I asked a mechanic friend of mine to look at it. He said it was a "spark knock" and he turned my timing back 2 degrees but still within honda specs, this helped somewat but not completely. Let me know what you come up with as there has to be another answer out there. Also for changing automatic transmission fluid, it is very easy to do yourself. There is no filter and the drain plug has easy access. It is actually easier than changing the oil.

auburn63 · July 2001

Glad to see that your problem has been fixed and all is fine with your car. Good luck.

redishme · July 2001

Briken: Sorry to dissapoint you that our cars are not twins. =P mine is silver. Even when i shift very slowly, it still make the sound, a little softer though (maybe it's my imagination cuz i am hoping?) Please keep update if there is further discovery, ok?

daysailer: thanks for your information! It makes me feel better.

alaskapb · July 2001

I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX auto with about 326,500 miles on it, original engine and transmission. The speed sensor went out on me a couple of weeks ago. The speedometer flucuated for a little while and then failed completely, the odometer quit, the check engine light came on and the sport shift button light(green with a 'S' in the middle located at the lower right) came on also. So my guess would be that you need to replace the speed sensor since it took care of my problems. Replace that and you should have years of life in your vehicle yet.

bobgordon · July 2001

You both seem to have the same problem; knocking and a ping. Check the timing, which you already did. Is the engine running hotter than normal?, this could cause a spark knock or ping. I would also pull a couple spark plugs to make sure they are the correct ones for your application. While you have them out, check to see if there is any carbon on them. If so, there is carbon deposits around the valves and head which when gets hot enough, can cause pre-ignition, spark knock. I use and recommend a product called "Sea Foam." You can pour it into your gas tank and will clean the fuel system, injectors and combustion area. It works! Purchase it at a good auto parts store.

Auburn: Did the repair on the "cold start thump."
Don't have that problem anymore, thanks for the info!

isellhondas · July 2001

These people complaining about pinging...do you think they might have a lot of carbon build up?

Sometimes we get cars like this, do a leakdown test and find low compression from carbon.

We do a "carbon blast" treatment and the leakdowns come way down and the pinging gos away.

What do you think?

jill66 · July 2001

I took my 2001 EX V6 on a 500 mile interstate trip this weekend and the car ran magnificently when the climate controls were off. Push that AUTO button on the climate control and cruise along anywhere from 50 to 65mph and the car hesitates so often you would swear you were driving a YUGO!!! And they call this normal!!!

talon95 · July 2001

I've experienced the same thing on my 2000 EX V6. Unlike in your case, the problem is clearly made worse by A/C, but it can even been detected with A/C off, although to a lesser degree. Do you notice it mostly when going up minor upgrades while the tranny is in overdrive? And it goes away if it shifts out of overdrive?

There is a service bulletin that mine was repaired under:

Service Bulletin Number: 00038
Bulletin Sequence Number: 125
Date of Bulletin: 0004
NHTSA Item Number: SB612567
Make: HONDA
Model: ACCORD
Year: 2000
Component: POWER TRAIN:TRANSMISSION:AUTOMATIC TORQUE CONVERTER (8/82)
Summary: VEHICLE MAY EXPERIENCE SHUDDER OR JUDDER WHEN DRIVING AT SPEEDS BETWEEN 20 AND 40 MPH, VIBRATION IS MOST NOTICEABLE WHEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP CLUTCH IS IN THE PARTIAL LOCK-UP MODE. *MJS

I got this off of the NHTSA site. They replaced the torque converter in response to this. The problem I was experiencing sounded similar enough to the service tech, even though I experience it more at higher speeds (50 - 70 mph).

While the good news was that they replaced the torque converter, the bad news is that the problem only improved a bit, but didn't go away.

If you want to pursue this, one problem is that I didn't find it listed under the 2001 model, only the 1999 and 2000. However, Honda doesn't claim to have made any changes for 2001 to the tranny on the V6 Accord, and the problem you're experiencing sounds *so* familiar, so I can't imagine that they could make much of a case for not doing anything with a 2001 model exhibiting the same behavior. I did see this service bulletin in the Honda TSB book as well.

The kind of response that you got from your dealer always makes me go ballistic. Just because some or all cars of a particular model exhibit some behavior, that doesn't make it "normal". It just means that many cars have the problem. "Ubiquitous" is not the same thing as "normal".

Hope this helps...

ejmjr · July 2001

I have a '00 Accord SE W/29,000 miles and I have a problem with both side view mirrors vibrating while on expressway. Dealer has tried to fix driver side twice, with no luck(6-mos ago). Now passenger side does same and all wheels are balanced and car drives smooth. Any ideas? Also, was on vacation for a week and started car, car ran really rough, like timing off and bluish smoke came from exhaust. Has this happened to anyone else? Made clunking sound when started. No more problems since then.

fritz1224 · July 2001

Have the dealer replace the mirrors. There may be a problem with the springs that hold the mirrors steady. Can you isolate where the vibration is? The support arms or the mirror case or the actual mirrors themselves? What did the dealer do to try and fix the problem?
As for the starting thing, did you press the accelerator first before turning the key. Kind of sounds like a flooded engine. You know you don't have to give it any gas when starting it, don't you? I guess you do since you got almost 30k on it.

pblevine · July 2001

Has anyone experienced slipping of the driver's seat? I've got a '98 Accord Coupe EX V6. On my daily trip to the office, I commonly ride over bumps and rough roads. Anyway, my driver's seat seems to move backwards about .5 to 1 inch over the course of the 30 mile commute. Is it me or the machine?

northernva · July 2001

Unbelievable! I bought a 2001 Accord LX a few weeks ago. On the drive home, the malfunction indicator light came on. After tightening the gas cap and giving it a few days to turn off, it turns out that the transmission needed to be replaced. It seems reasonable to most people that the dealership should replace the car with one that does not need a new transmission, but Honda doesn't want to do that for several reasons. I will say that the dealership has been great in working with me to make up for the inconvenience, and they threw in an after market product that helped me to be happy to keep the original car and stop fighting for a new car. However, I have had a very difficult time dealing with American Honda's consumer affairs representative [If anyone is interested, I have more to share on this topic!]. I wonder if anyone has had a similar experience, and what resulted. I was referred to the Honda Consumer Affairs Hot line by the dealership once I inquired about an extended warranty (at no cost to me) to restore my confidence that this vehicle will not cost me more down the road - early signs aren't good! He willingly offered an extended warranty for 5 yr./60k miles on the transmission only. I was encouraged by a source familiar with this type of situation to pursue a warranty on the entire car (that this is reasonable considering the problem is a manufacturer's defect). The Honda rep. came back with a choice for me: they would give me either the original offer of 5/60k on the transmission only, OR 4 yr/48,000 on the whole car. When asked why only one or the other, he responded that nothing else on the car had problems...WELL I SHOULD HOPE NOT, THE CAR IS ONLY 2 WEEKS OLD!!! Any opinions out there? Maybe I should be fortunate to get either offer, as the rep. repeats continuously, they don't have to do anything. When he says that, I think he is missing the point of customer service and the importance of loyal, repeat customers like myself (4th Honda in 11 years)...and ones that do not feel compelled to post a message like this! If I must choose one or the other, which is better? Honda says they stand behind their products, but 4 years instead of 5 or 6, how confident are they?

bobgordon · July 2001

I too have been noticing this, at first I thought the seat wasn't locked into place but that is not the case. I have a 2001 EX with 1600 miles on it and will see if there is a TSB. Will let you know if I find anything.

fritz1224 · July 2001

Why not see if Honda will split the cost of their 7yr/100k ESP? That's pretty much a bumper to bumper. That's a lot better than their offer of a 4yr/48k(only 1 yr more that what the manufacturer's warranty is). Sure, you really don't want to put up ANY money and I can't blame you, but if they go for it you'll get a lot more protection at a significantly reduced cost.
I guess the v6 tranny saga still exists.
Any other symptoms except the malfunction light? The "D4" light didn't flicker? Was it slipping,shuddering or clunking?
And that rep is wrong about Honda not having to do anything. The one thing they better do is figure out why their V6 tranny is getting all the negative publicity. Or maybe they don't really care.

qualityguy · July 2001

On the drive home a while ago I got a stone into my condenser... Freon got out completely from the system now. It was really hot in the car in traffic for those 2 hours on Sunday. Local shops want 622.69 (+/-) for condenser, receiver-dryer, conversion kit to 134A freon and labor. I can buy all the parts together for 257.23 (inc. shipping & tax). It doesn't look like impossible feat to do it on my backyard, though. Did anybody replace the condenser, receiver-dryer and converted the car to the new freon by himself? How is possible to assure that there are no leaks in connections? How should be replaced oil in the A/C system? Would anybody know where to get quality parts for less money? What should be the pressure in the system with the new freon? Or, may be there is something like "stop-leak" for A/C system?

bobgordon · July 2001

Its not necessary to change over to R-134A. R-12 is still available, pricey but available. Since you have lost all of the freon, and probably some oil out of your A/C system, your system now has moisture in it which the dessicant bag has absorbed. There is a certain ammount of oil that now needs to be added since you have to replace the condenser and accumulator(receiver-dryer). That ammount can be found in the service manual. After those parts are replaced with new O-rings, you will have to put a vacuum to the system to boil out any moisture and this will also tell you if you have any leaks; if the vacuum doesnt hold, there is a leak. This all requires special equipment. I would find a shop that will re-charge your A/C with R12. Hope this helps.

pblevine · July 2001

Thanks, I'll also try to look up data on our moving seats. BTW, My A/C (again a '98) is still working fine. Does anyone know how often (or at what mileage) I should replace those two A/C air filters?

ejmjr · July 2001

The dealer first replaced the mirror & the 2nd time replaced the housing with no luck.I am sure there are other Honda owners with this problem. As for the starting problem, no I never press gas pedal when starting car. The only difference this time was that the car sat in garage for 7 days.

qualityguy · July 2001

Thanks. I want to replace all the parts myself, 'cuz when I see 98% of mechanics work, I dont understand what I am paying for, first, and second, why I am killing my time in the shop. Still I am looking for the info: are there any special gimmicks and tools when you put the parts together? Do you apply any special seals, or glue on the parts and O-rings? I guess, the shops in my area still can do me a favor in vacuuming and filling up the system with R-12 - I saw some of them advertising it for $60.

bobgordon · July 2001

There really is not any special tools needed to do the job, since you have a shop that will do a vacuum test and charge with R-12. Just see if they can charge the system with A/C oil then you won't have to add any to the condenser or receiver/dryer. The only thing you need to do is coat the new o-rings with some A/C oil and install on the fittings of the condenser, receiver/dryer and tighten. Make sure the shop runs the vacuum for at least 30 min. and lets it set for the same ammount of time. This will make sure that all moisture has been boiled out and there are no leaks. Hope this helps.

thomas_c1 · July 2001

I bought a Honda Accord 2001 EX V6 a month ago. The car runs fine except steeling wheel vibration. I took it to the dealer and they told me it was normal. I looked for the problem in NHSAT website and found this service bullentin:

Service Bulletin Number: 031000
Bulletin Sequence Number: 189
Date of Bulletin: 0010
NHTSA Item Number: SB618927
Make: HONDA
Model: ACCORD
Year: 2001
Component: STEERING
Summary: INFORMATION ON INVESTIGATING COMPLAINTS OF STEERING WHEEL VIBRATION. *TT

Anyone has any idea about this? What should I do? The steeling wheel definitely shakes.

Thanks,

Thomas

jrct9454 · July 2001

You've answered your own question - go to the dealer, quote the TSB, and take it from there. If there is any problem, find another dealer or talk to the service director / manager. Without the full text of the TSB, you can't be sure this actually addresses your problem, but at least this is a start.

AND IT IS NOT NORMAL. Our '01 EX V6 could not be smoother, at any speed up to 100mph.

anselmo1 · July 2001

I would take the 5year/60,000 mile warranty on the transmission. The V-6 transmission has been very problematic since 1998 on the Accords.

pblevine · July 2001

jrct9454 is absolutely correct! My '98 Accord Coupe has no such vibrations. That's a serious thing. It may be nothing more than a wheel alignment, but who knows. The dealership has got to at least do some diagnostic testing.

qualityguy · July 2001

Thanks. I'll try to do as planned as as per your advice.
Something is happening to the car... Now it's suddenly a problem to raise the passenger side window, main switch and switch on the right door don't function properly. Left window is just fine (so far).

auburn63 · July 2001

That is a possibilty as we see some cars comming through with carbon build up also. Most of them have higher mileage though. Other than that either fuel or EGR problems. Sorry it took so long for the response I have been away..

maq4463 · July 2001

Hi guys,

Can anyone help me out in deciding whether I sould change the cluth & pressure plate on my 90 Accord with 173K 5spd. The clutch is not bad, its worn out and occassionally slips when I start in the first gear. Overall condition/acceleration of the car is reasonable. I commute to work 20 miles each way daily and its running O.k. I started my very well paying job beginnign this year and still paying my bills. I will be debt free in couple of months, but with the current job market and economy I am very wary of attaching $350 payment to my paycheck right now.

I am planning to replace my car by the end of the year and know that spending over $500 will not add up much to the cost of the car. So should I wait and let it run as it is (I am sure there is no chance of any brake down) or cough up close to $600 on parts and labor. Any suggetions...?

Mr_Shiftright · July 2001

I think you should replace it because no one is going to give you much for a 90 Honda with a slipping clutch. So the $500 you spend will be re-collected at the time you sell the car, whereas if you sell it with a bad clutch you are going to have to deduct more than $500.

Another thing, that clutch could leave you stranded at any time, and continued slipping may damage the flywheel (stress cracks and burning).

pblevine · July 2001

It happened to me with my old Opel GT a few years back. Because I waited too long, it became very hard to find replacement parts.

qualityguy · July 2001

If you live in NY area, i can fetch you a number of the shop, where they gonna replace clutch for much less - like 250-300, and they did the job for my CRX & it was done OK.

isellhondas · July 2001

If your clutch is worn out and slipping, it is, indeed, "bad".

The others are correct. It is now giving you fair warning of impending doom.

If you ruin your flywheel by continuing to drive it your costs will increase by quite a bit.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy