Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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Comments

  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I'd have to agree that these don't wear out often on cars. The only times I've had to replace mine were on a POS 1983 Dodge Charger with 90K miles and a 1987 Ford truck. But I live in Florida where pot holes are few. Someone who lives up north in the ice and cold with lots of potholes will see them wear out quicker.
  • fix_itfix_it Member Posts: 2
    Thanks dkrab, its good to know the noise from the power steering is nothing major.
    Any suggestions on when to change the Timing Belt on them. Anyone?
  • rnguyen00rnguyen00 Member Posts: 6
    I brought my car to the dealer for the 30k service maintaince, at which I complain about the clunk noise on my tranny when put in reverse( transmission were replaced about 9 months ago with the same problem )they told me I needed another new transmission. My car now have 29,000 miles... They told me they will order another one and contact me when it will arrive. I'm starting to worry about the reliability of the trans. what happen if the new one is bad and my warrant has expired? Does any of you have to replace the transmission twice?
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    How bad is this clunk noise? My CL-S has been doing that since day 1 but the transmission seems fine to this day. As for the warranty, I think if it is a recurring problem that originated within the warranty period, then Honda will honour repairs made after the warranty. Just make sure your dealer has documented everything accurately.
  • dash400mdash400m Member Posts: 55
    A friend of mine has a '92 Accord DX with a manual transmission. While warming the car up from an initial cold start, it cuts off before reaching normal operating temperature. When attempting to restart the engine immediately after it has cut off, it just cranks, but won't start. After sitting for a few minutes, it'll start, then run fine.

    A code 15 is registered in memory, which according to the manual indicates a problem with the ignitor. The owner believes this to be a false indicator, because it's his impression that the ignitor either works totally or not at all. Instead, the owner replaced the temperature coolant sensor to no avail.

    Any advice? Is it a faulty ignitor or a related component?

    Thanks //
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    In that year you have several options that could be the problem
    1)The distributor sub assymblys were known to go bad in that year. Usally they make a intermitant noise but not always. You can look inside the dist cap and if there is a white substance all over the inside then it is probably bad. You can also take it out of the car and spin it by hand and see if it is stiff.
    2)The main fuel relay has been known to cause start up problems as well as the capability of causing the stall and no restart until the relay cools off and makes contact again. The only test for this that works real good is to put in a known good one while the problem is there and see if it helps.
    3) The next thing would be the TW(tempature, water sensor)
    As for the igniter, that is a possibility because they can be bad at certain tempature ranges and fine at others however we have not replaced too many of them in that year. Once it fails/stalls and won't restart you can check for spark and see if you have it or not as a quick test for that.
    The most replaced item for that complaint is the main fuel relay, next the tw sensor unless the distributor is noisy or binding then that would be the first thing.
    My guess, with a quiet/clean distributor, would be the main fuel relay....Good luck
  • gocardsgocards Member Posts: 1
    I want to have daytime running lights on my 2000 Accord EX V6. Does anyone know where I might get this done? I called several dealers and they were clueless on helping me. Thanks for any and all help. JFM
  • mikevaughnmikevaughn Member Posts: 7
    I have a well maintained '94 accord ex at w/ 123,500 miles. Timing belt, balancer belt, etc. replaced at 90k as per book. At about 100k, it started a "knocking" noise at start-up, especially when cold. Noise slowly reduces as operating temp. is reached but never really goes away and is worse under hard load. Tech. says he has heard this before and says it is probably piston slap and not rod bearing or wrist pin. What do you-all think?

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    There are several possibilities and with out an onspection of those things it is hard to say. I have seen a valve train noise in that year that is the rocker on the number 2 cylynder wearing and rapping. I have seen mains as well as rods and also have seen the piston slap thing. An inspection of the rods and mains would be the diag for those if the valves/rockers were ok. If not too bad then you could leave it and not fix it till it gets worse. Good luck..
  • mikevaughnmikevaughn Member Posts: 7
    auburn63
    Thanks for the input. I bought the car at about 70k miles in '99 and have used Mobil 1 5w30 and OEM filters at about 7.5k change intervals. Are the bearing wear(rod and main) and piston slap problems you've seen oil related? I'm going to 15w40 on the next change (Chevron Delo400) to see if it helps any. I will pull valve cover, adjust valves and check for the rocker arm wear you mentioned soon. If nothing there, then next oil change will pull oil pan (assumig that it can be dropped w/o removing steering rack, half shafts, etc.,-I have not looked at it to see how big a job dropping the oil pan will be). Any advice, directions to appropriate websites, etc. will be appreciated. Thanks again.
  • dash400mdash400m Member Posts: 55
    My friend will be digging under the hood of that '92 Accord. BTW: My '85 "Cool Moon Mobile" (Civic Wagon) is in the body shop for its final phase of restoration. It's in a shop surrounded by vintage muscle cars; and yep, it stands out. I've replaced all the necessary parts with genuine Honda. The new floor carpet is on back order from Japan -- $400 smackers for that custom-fit piece of fabric... These guys do incredible work.

    Thanks again for your quick response.
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Member Posts: 1,284
    I've never seen anyone restore an '85 Civic wagon... you have got to post pictures when it's done... :-)
  • cokane5227cokane5227 Member Posts: 117
    right corner of back bumper got scratched by careless driver who obviously didn't quite know how to park into a rectangular parking spot. =)
    basically, i would just like to know how much it would cost to have this scratch repaired, this scratch is not deep but it's about 3 in. wide and .5 in. tall, my friend told me that it would costs about $400 to have it fixed, is that true? any information would be greatly appreciated. my car's only 8 months old, i don't want to be driving around with a scratch for the next few years unless it costs too much for this little unfriendly scar.
  • dash400mdash400m Member Posts: 55
    You've got it, and no one but me would restore an '85 Civic Wagon. It's a near-mint, Sayama, Japan model (1.5L @76hp, 3-speed automatic, 2-b carburetor, AC and an AM-only radio with 250,000 miles [I put in a new Jasper reman engine at 235,000 miles]). It's so slow that I can probably out sprint it in a quarter-mile, provided I'm wearing my Nike Zoom Rivals. Seriously, it handles unbelievably well, and I'll take almost anyone on an I-95 exit ramp. It's a prime runner at 55mph, and averages ~41mpg on the highway. It drops down to ~35mpg at 65mph. I stick to the right-hand lane on highways to avoid controversy with the bigger, Bubba types. I respect those big boys, but deep down I know they're all big pretenders. Hell, I'm cheap. I paid less than $9000 for the rocket new, and I'm spending $10,000 to bring it back to like new. I've always maintained it, and except for some minor rust problems, it's been a winner. My wife shakes her head... I'm a better sprinter because of this car -- it's an image thing that conceals my speed at the track!

    See you around.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    For an EX owner, the answer on DTRLs is simple - turn on the headlight switch and leave it on. The car will turn off the headlights automatically after you shut off [15 second delay? - whatever it says in the owner's manual].

    I too have personally witnessed the difference that running lights can make, especially in the behavior of otherwise careless truck drivers [nothing like the second glance in the mirror before he decides to move his 80000 lbs into your lane]. We just got in the habit of using the low beams all the time on our EX, and letting the system manage the shutdown process, which it does just fine. No new wires, relays, or work under the hood.
  • nwngnwng Member Posts: 663
    my car has only 68k miles and I noticed the ride has deteriate, it did not bounce up and down nor does it have fluid leaking. I only want the ride to be a bit more composed and the handling a little more tight. I wonder a strut tower brace and a rear anti-sway bar will do the trick. It is true though my honda dealer send me a laundry list of service coupons every now and then but none were for shocks replacement.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    They rarely go bad. Replacing shocks is almost unheard of in a Honda service dept.

    UNLESS...the car has been lowered!
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Believe it or not the beering wear is usally related to overtightened external belts. Oil can be a source of the problem but I have seen clean motors develope the noise so not always. The oil pan comes off fairly easy no major parts to remove except for the front pipe(A pipe) but thats no big deal. Before removing it try to get an idea of which cylynder you are hearing. Should be able to float the rpm back and forth(usally around 1100-2500rpms) to duplicate the noise, then remove the spark plug wire on one cylynder,float the rpms and see if you hear the noise, repete until the noise stops. Good luck
  • skathskath Member Posts: 7
    we have a 1 week old 2002 accord coupe v4 (800 miles) , it developed a ticking noise, sounds like it comes from back side, maybe from back seats or back window, it is hard to say. sounds like something small is hitting the window or hitting to a thin metal, nothing serious maybe but disturbing. also it developed another small rattle when moonroof is open. are these problem normal? are they easy to repair in general? after paying so much money that is not we were expecting for sure, so annoying. we would appreciate any idea.

    thank you
  • cokane5227cokane5227 Member Posts: 117
    i have the exact same car, the sunroof rattle happened to my car too, just bring it back to the dealer and tell them to fix it, it's a small case. i have the ticking noise too except for that i have it on my side windows, i got it fixed for a few times but since it's in the doors and they open and close all the time, it keeps coming back so i just learned to live with it, in your case it's from the back window which i think the dealer will fix and probably won't appear again.
    and you don't have to pay for the repair, it's covered under warranty.
    hope the information helps. have a good one.
  • nwngnwng Member Posts: 663
    Wife would kill me if I rice the accord. There is another problem that is popping up more lately. On average about 3 times a week, I was unable to put into first gear when I want to pull away from a stand still (usually at a stop light). So I have to put it into 2nd and give it a bit more gas to move. Sometimes if I reengage the clutch again it will work. Can someone tell me it is not the 1st gear syncro going bad.... Another thing I noticed (since when the car was new) was that the car has a tiny little hesitation around 3-4k rpm during acceleration (i.e., lead foot style)usually in 2nd or 3rd, it's more like going up, hit a small pleteau and going up again. The revs did not drop at all, and I do not have the vtec engine. Thanks for all the help!

    Window ticking noise - have you had extreme temperatures (cold nights and hot days) in where you live lately? I have the same noise in my windows when it is freezing outside and toasty inside my car. Another time I have the noise is when I am driving on the highway and it's windy(I mean you can see the tree branches wavering type of windy)
    Thanks for all the help.
  • ravynravyn Member Posts: 101
    sway bars will definitely make for a stiffer ride. this comes from many of my friends. i only have a neuspeed upper strut tower brace at the moment, and have noticed a small difference. but apparently sway bars make the most noticeable difference. and there are some spring/shock combos that lower your car ever so slightly that your wife prolly wouldn't notice. but you'd still get the benefits of better cornering and handling.
    my .02..
  • skathskath Member Posts: 7
    well actually we did not have such weather conditions. but we hear that noise, when we are on bumpy roads, likle small bumps but for a long time, mostly on rough roads i mean. also it is possible that it is developing that noise after couple of hours of driving, yet we are trying to find out in what conditions it is happening. but rough roads are main reason for now, it happens until we leave rough road . other wise on normal highway we do not hear really
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    but any possibility that the ticking noise is from the rear licence plate rattling against the trunk? Where I live they only seem to fasten the plate with the top 2 screws so when you go over rough roads the lower part of the plate can actually vibrate and flap against the car.
  • skathskath Member Posts: 7
    hmm interesting, but do you think that kinda noise may sound like it is coming from inside, somewhere between backseats and back window?

    thnx
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    It's possible since the noise would be bouncing around inside the trunk. At my house, we often have crows walking around ON TOP of the roof. The first time I heard it, I thought I had rats or other pests in the attic. Then the pest control guy went up to the roof, tapped on it and reproduced the same sound. A hollow space, such as a trunk, or the attic, can really transmit sounds.
  • gliddellgliddell Member Posts: 5
    How many more miles does a 94 with 130,000 miles have in it with good maintenance?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Crows, rats...what's the difference?

    Oh yeah, crows can fly! :)
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Well....exactly another 136,714.8 miles!

    Seriously, I've seen 300,000 miles on several of these. It depends on a lot of things I suppose.

    Your results may vary....
  • killakella123killakella123 Member Posts: 52
    My 2001 accord coupe also has numerous rattles. Passenger door, dash on the passenger side, rear deck, sunroof. Only one of the rattles seems to be present at a time, and by the time it has been there long enough to piss me off and make me take it to the dealer, it dissapears for a while. Strange.
  • cokane5227cokane5227 Member Posts: 117
    hahaha ...... that happened to me too, not only to my current accord coupe, also happened to my previous car which i thought was a junk. so now i've learned to be SOOOO used to rattles that my ears don't react to any noise inside the cabin anymore, it feels much better this way.
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    Anti-Rattle is great stuff. Anti-Rattle is like anti-matter and if applied correctly will stop you from hearing them. Ha, and if ya believes dat, there's a bridge I'd like to sell ya. Isell sold it to me.... :) [only kidding!]

    And now the facts. I've got a '98 EX V6 Coupe and its a daily commuter over a wide variety of roads. About every six months, I wonder over the car and re-tighten every loose nut and screw (ah, but not too tight). I also use a rubber protector / sealant on all my rubber strips and mounts. Seems to work for me. My "Moon Roof" doesn't rattle except on uneven dirt roads (which I see every weekend). And although I do hear a bit of a squeak or rattle now and then, I've been able to keep them to a minimum.

    The wind noise is more of a pain. And most of that is due to the damn MVX4's. I could say mine was a Monday car, but the truth is that a little bit of preventive maintenance goes a long way. 'Having said that, how can I get rid of the non-tire related wind noise. ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY!
  • killakella123killakella123 Member Posts: 52
    I have just used some silicon spray for that purpose. Is there something made just for that?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    Just curious, but how is it that the Michelins can cause wind noise? :)
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    I think it's caused by cross-winds blowing across that rugged and tenacious tread pattern ;-)
  • inkieinkie Member Posts: 281
    purchase from honda dealer Shin-Etsu grease, does a pretty good job.Lasts longer than normal silicone lube Honda recommends it mainly for sun roof gasket. I don't know if all dealers carry it.
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    I'm not sure about the cause, but those tires do make a lot of "road" noise. It may not, strictly speaking, "wind" noise, but it is definitely noise.

    It did use some of the dealer supplied grease on my moon roof gasket. I've also been using Zaino "Perfect Tire Gloss" on the assorted rubber mounts and weather stripping (around doors, etc.). And once in a while, I also use it on my tires.
  • gunzitogunzito Member Posts: 3
    I HAVE A HONDA ACCORD EX 2 DOOR V6 AND IT HAS 74,000 MILES ON IT. TODAY I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND GOT AN ENGINE DIAGNOSIS ON IT. FROM MY UNDERSTANDING ABOUT A YEAR AGO HONDA PUT FORTH THIS CAMPAIGN REGARDING THERE EGR VALVES ON 98-01 HONDA ACCORDS TO REPLACE FOR FREE IF THEY MESSED UP. WHEN I GOT THE DIAGNOSTIC DONE THE COMPUTER PULLED THE CODE P0401 WHICH MEANS INSUFFIECENT AIR FLOW, NEEDS CLEANED AND EGR REPLACED. THEY TOLD ME THAT THE PREVIOUS OWNER SEEMED TO HAVE HAD THE EGR REPLACED ALREADY BY PROCESSING MY VIN STATUS REPORT AND SAID THAT THEY WILL NOT REPLACE MY EGR THE EGR AS PART OF THE CAMPAIGN THAT I WILL HAVE TO PAY $300.00. NOW MY QUESTION IS SHOULDN'T HONDA REPLACE FOR FREE IF THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE PART ANYWAY. AND MY NEXT QUESTION IS THE PART COST 200.00. I WAS THINKING THAT IF I HAD TOO COULD I REPLACE THE EGR MYSELF AND IF I COULD HOW WOULD I CLEAN THE INTAKE THAT HONDA WAS SUGGESTION.. IS THIS AN EASY JOB. PLEASE SEND ME INFO.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    regardless if it has been done already or not if you fall within the extended warranty period which I believe is 8 years 80,000 miles(usa) then it should be under the warranty campain. Originally when we started these we were only cleaning out the intake, now we clean out the intake, drill the EGR port in the intake to a larger size and install a sleeve and then replace the EGR valve itself. So chances are that you got the old repair and now there is a new/update to that which you should be able to get. If the dealer still says no I would ask to speak to the zone rep or put on a call to the customer service line or maybe even both..As a final note I have not seen too many of these actually be the EGR valve itself, usally it is the clogged port. Good luck
  • cokane5227cokane5227 Member Posts: 117
    i've been using Chevron every since i bought my 02 accord coupe last Sep. and there has always been a lag when taking off from nearly or complete stop, it feels like one valve in each cylinder wasn't totally working so it's like the power has been hold off, then at 2000rpm, the power burst in and then the car accelerate normally through out the power band.
    but then last night when i was at my friend's house i ran out of gas so i refilled at a local Shell station since i couldn't find a Chevron, ever since i refilled the lag has been gone and the car accelerates as smooth as silk, i was really surprised because i always thought Chevron is the best brand, isn't it? then how come an accident switch in gas station cured the lag in power i always thought was a honda characteristic? i mean, why? i'm really confused.
    BTW, my car is an ULEV VTEC 4cylinder
  • anselmo1anselmo1 Member Posts: 163
    I have heard the same tires on a Toyota Solara and there was absolutely no noise at all. It has more to due with the lack of insulation in the Accord. Honda has a tendency not to insult their cars that well. Even Consumer Reports magazine notes this in the rating of the vehicle. "Road noise is pronounced".
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    It's some of the posters here that have a tendency to "insult" Hondas from time to time..:)

    I know what you mean and I agree. I suspect the 2003 Accords will be much quieter. The new Pilots are VERY quiet.
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    I was commenting on the tires, not the car. For now, I love my 2000 Ruby Pearl Accord SE! I was looking at it last night (I just Klassed it last weekend) and was thinking about how great it looks. IMHO, the Accord is a pretty bland car and there's a bizillion of them on the road, but my particular model, with the beautiful paint and fantastic alloy wheels, really stands out in the Accord crowd. I had a white '99 LX for a while. When they were parked side-by-side, I could almost swear they weren't the same cars!

    I say *for now* because any car, Honda or not, can turn on you. I loved my '91 Saab 900T too, but hated it's chronic problems. So far, my Accord has been good to me with almost 28K miles. I have confidence that this will be the case in the future, but you never know.

    Anselmo: I agree about the MXV's. They are very quiet. I just don't like the way they wear out prematurely. The Accord is noisy inside, it's not the tires.
  • arspunky1arspunky1 Member Posts: 1
    My ex's Airconditioner seems like it is not very cool. Is this a common problem with hodas?
    Thanks....
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Use a thermometer to check the outlet temp at the centre vent with the AC on maximum and engine at fast idle. Should be between 38-42F.
  • cota99cota99 Member Posts: 28
    I own a '96 Accord LX. When I turn off the car, the fans turn on about one minute later. A few months ago, some hoses burst due to over heating. Does anyone know what the problem may be? I bought a new radiator that I have yet to install. Thanks in advance for the help.
  • beachnutbeachnut Member Posts: 291
    Well, after praising my car a few posts ago, my quirky tranny is at it again! I know, I know, tranny problems were mainly confined to V6's and nobody's really seen many issues with the I4, but I'm telling you, I'm concerned. When I go to the NHSTA site, I see several complaints about this "torque converter lock-up at low speed" issue, followed by other bulletins issued by Honda saying it's "normal". What gets me is that nowhere do I find any explanation of the broken part or fixes for ANY Honda TSB's on NHSTA. If I look at Mazda, for instance, I see quite a bit more info on their TSB's. I seem to recall a while back a poster here mentioning something about Honda not allowing any detailed info to be shared with this agency. I don't know if this is true or not, but coincidental nonetheless. My 30K service is coming soon and I will be bringing it to the dealership's attention (again). Of course, they will tell me it's normal and send me on my way (again), but I figure I should build a history just in case, instead of being quiet about this *normal problem*.

    Bottom line - I wish I had bought a Honda extended warranty two years ago. Does anyone here have a good ball-park estimate of what the cost *should* be on a '00 SE w/28K miles? Also, does anyone know what the Honda EW cost for this car two years ago? I'll be calling a few dealers this coming week ....
  • bodydoublebodydouble Member Posts: 801
    Honda is an extemely secretive/paranoid company. They don't even allow Alldata to list their TSB's.
    In any case, you're doing the right thing by building a case history for your tranny just in case the thing dies right after the warranty expires.
  • fastdog1fastdog1 Member Posts: 19
    I think one tank of fuel is to early to make that assumption. Chevron is a very good fuel. As a matter of fact if you search the web boards for a good fuel system cleaner, most recommendations are Chevron Techron. This is the same additive in their fuel except in a higher concentrate. They have now merged with Texaco (ChevronTexaco) which has always been a good fuel with the CleanSystem3 additives. I use Texaco, I think the fuel system preventative maintenance is very important for good performance and mileage. Fuel system maintenance has always been a gray area as far as fuel injector cleaning, throttle body, etc. Everybody has a opinion but there is no hard data from the industry or manufacturers to guide us by. I would think as long as the octane is correct you should not see that lag just because of fuel brand. You need to do a more through test and let us know how it is going.
    Best Regards.
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