On the power steering problem, have you tried to go into a parking lot and just continually push the power steering to see if the problem recurrs? The worst part about car problems is that it never seems to do it when you bring it in for service. Has it gotten worse? Usually something like that will get worse over time and magnify the problem.
On the ongoing discussion about the accord stock tires, I agree that the opinion of a strong voice on the internet can make things seem a lot worse. Bunk, remember the testers put these cars through high speed slalom tests. Unless you are going to do that, I wouldn't worry so much. But remember, tires can always be changed. I wouldn't make it a basis for not purchasing a car. I bet when you drive the car you will find that they are fine. And if they turn out to bother you, maybe drive the first year on the stock ones to get some value out of them and replace them. Unless of course you can find someone willing to purchase them from you.
The starting problem with the 99 accord has nothing to do with the starter.The engine turns over every time just fine but sometimes and it seems to be mostly in the hot times of the day it will not fire.I dont know if its fire or a fuel problem but once started it will run fine.It doesnt do this every day and the times are unpredictable but after you let the car sit for a while 1/2 to 2 hours the engine will start.Anyone had a problem like this?
I have a 01 accord coupe with a rattle in the passenger side vent. I can make it stop if I push in on the little vent shutoff "wheel" below the vent. Has anyone else had this problem and had it fixed or fixed it yourself? I am a little reluctant to let a dealer start ripping into my dash, and I don't really want to either!
Hi all, I have a 1996 Accord LX with automatic transmission, with only 42K miles. Recently I found niticeable jerk when the car shifts gears from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th. What could possibly be the problem? Thanks for your insight.
Thanks for your input regarding the Dunlop SP Sport A2's. I've been hearing good things about these tires. In terms of trade-offs and compromises, I'm willing to give up a few thousand miles of wear for better performance, less noise, and probably a bit more in the overall comfort category too. I'll keep the MVX4's until the tread wears down some more, but I'll definitely replace them with something better. As I've said in a prior post, both you and jrct9454 have given me a much better perspective of tire shopping. I've eliminated the X-Ones from consideration, and am now looking at the Dunlop SP Sport A2's and the Michelin Pilot XGT series. BTW, I can't seem to get the TireRack website to compare these last two directly. That site doesn't think the XGT's fit on the '98 Accord Coupe (EX V6)'s 16 inch wheels.
The Coupe has 205/60-16 as the OEM size, and indeed the Michelin XGT doesn't come in this size. If you want to put up with a little stiffer ride [but pick up some handling], 215/55-16s should fit, and have the same rolling diameter, assuming the stock wheels are wide enough - they should be, since this is only one size up. This size includes a lot more choices, though few of them are cheap.
My 2001 Accord's left cooling fun runs continuous until the battery is completely drained. Probably an electrical problem although the Honda’s service department hasn’t determined the exactly cause /fix yet. Two questions: 1) Did anyone else experience a similar problem? Or if this problem has been discussed in the forum, maybe someone can refer me the post? 2) Is this type of problem covered under the 3 years/50,000 miles warranty? My dealer isn’t sure...
I'll tell you what my mindset would be. I would be broadcasting the vibe that "of course it's covered, why wouldn't it be covered, it better be covered!"
Don't give off the scent that it might not be covered. They'll pick that up like a shark picks up on blood in the water.
If they continue to "wonder if it's covered", start squawking loudly, drag your salesman into the mix, make it look like you'll make a scene right there, right now.
If it's not covered, what exactly would be covered? Sometimes you have to play hardball.
PS: I had this happen on a 87 Golf - it was the underhood temperature sensor that would determine if the fan should run or not after the engine was shut off. That episode made me very leery of those run-on fans. The fan would shut off immediately if I disconnected that sensor. The sensor was pretty cheap, IIRC.
Whether that's meaningful advice in reference to a much newer car made by a different manufacturer is questionable, but I throw it out for your consideration.
In regards to your reply (post #2897) to my tire size inquiry, I have a couple more questions for you.
Am I safe to assume that the 4-lug alloys on my '00 SE have a 6" rim width, and that the alloys on the same year EX-V6 had a 6.5" rim width? If this is true, were the EX's rims offset one way or the other, or was the difference split? In other words, was the extra .5" pushed in or out in relation to the wheel well?
I'm the one who wanted to put the 205/65-15 X-Ones from my van on the Accord. I've moved from the "thinking" phase to the "gonna do it today" phase, so I hope you're around I went to tirerack and did side-by-side comparisons of the 195/65 MXV4 (current oem) and the 205/65 X-One. These were their results.
195/65-15 MXV4+ Rim Range: 5"-7" Meas. Rim Width: 6" Sect. Width: 8" Overall Diameter: 24.9"
205/65-15 X-One Rim Range: 5"-7.5" Meas. Rim Width: 6" Sect. Width: 8.2" Overall Diameter: 25.3"
205/65-15 MXV4+ Rim Range: 5.5"-7.5" Meas. Rim Width: 6" Sect. Width: 8.5" Overall Diameter: 25.5"
I threw the 205/65 MXV4+ info in there just for FYI. Thanks again for your help!
You've managed to confuse me - now I'm not sure exactly what your question is.
Yes, the V6's wheels are 0.5 inch wider; no, I don't know how the wheel offset handles the difference between the two cars. I suppose it is theoretically possible that the extra section width of the tire could pose some kind of clearance problem with the suspension pieces, but I really, really doubt that this should be a problem.
I think you can mount 205s on the 4 cyl that currently has 195s, as long as you remember the caveats about odometer error, and the fact that the speedo will now be right on, with no buffer for speeding tickets. If that is the question, I believe the answer is "yes" - it is hard for me to imagine that there will be any clearance problems -but to be safe, you might try mounting one wheel on the front at the tire shop before tearing all of them down. You can eyeball this, as well - try slipping your hand over the top of the tire, wrapping your fingers down the inside between the tire and the suspension piece, and see/feel how much clearance currently exists. You need only an extra 5mm [one half of the difference in section width] to make it work. It's that extra .6" of rolling diameter that you need to be aware of - it will decrease your odo's readings by maybe 2%.
I hope this answers the question you have in mind.
What kind of van are you talking about, just out of curiousity?
Follow the listing in the owner's manual. I believe most Accords are 90K miles.
Honda's have interference engines - that is if the timing belt breaks, then parts start running into each other and breaking into very expensive chunks. I don't know the reasoning behind using this design - I presume there is some technical purpose.
To get to the timing belt requires removal of the water pump. It's one of those things that since you're paying the labor to pull it out, you might as well spend another few $ and replace it. It may not be gone but it has worn some at 90K.
When I park my 1998 Accord Coupe V6 in my gravel driveway, it makes noise while the car is not running. Periodically, there is a buzzing/humming sound that comes from somewhere towards the back of the car. Sounds like an electronic device that is doing something in there. Is it some kind of ride leveling device? Thanks.
I have the same noise in my 97. I really hear it the most when I first stop the car when I get home from work. To me, it almost sounds like a very distant fog horn (really!).
I read elsewhere that cars with the OBDII (on-board diagnostics) have a system to verify the integrity of the fuel system, i.e., is it leaking fumes into the atmosphere (unburned fuel vapor is blamed for causing smog air pollution).
I think we're hearing a pump that's maintaining pressure in the fuel tank and conductng the test. I know if you leave the fuel cap off you'll get a check engine light.
When came time to repl my timing belt on 97 I4 -105 is interval and did it at 118 - found several dealers who insisted the water pump be replaced at same time. The cheapest belt alone guy said, "why replace it if no problems". Have put well over 500K on accords driven/maintained by me- and nada water pump failure yet-one has almost 300K on it.
Broke one timing belt-no valve problems-some people swear these are interference engines-the Honda tech who replaced my timing belt said the IV was not an interference engine unless you had carbon on the valves. Uh-he then tried to sell me a pricey 3M carbon removal service. Then grinned and asked him what was his spiff on this service and he grinned-would not say.
My advice would be if coolant is leaking out the vent in the WP or the bearing is rough/loose-replace it. If not be brave and save a few bucks.
Replaced timing belt 2 times without touching the water pump. Honda service manual does not say replace, only check for leak and shaft play. Dealers selling up. If you listen to them, they have you replace your car every 90k.
Thanks for the informative reply Altair. Your description of the noise sounds much more accurate...now that I think about it, it does sort of sound like a distant fog horn. If anyone can confirm that this pump is making the noise, I would be very appreciative.
By the way, do you remember where you read about the OBDII??
John, sorry to confuse you, but you actually got thru my muddle just fine! Thanks again for all your comments and suggestions! The van is an '01 Mazda MPV. I went ahead and bought a set of OEM Mazda alloys and tires for it yesterday from eBay. They're dealer takeoffs and the Dunlops have less than 500 miles. So, they're going on the van, hopefully to solve an ongoing vibe problem with that vehicle.
OK, the new X-Ones (205/65, currently on the steel wheels on the Mazda) are coming off and going on my Accord. I will definitely have the tire shop do one tire first like you suggested. I'm almost certain it will work fine too.
Do you think I should have the Honda dealer mount the X-Ones on the Accord, or might they hassle me about the non-oem tire size? Maybe I should look around for a good quality independent tire shop. I'm through with the large tire chain store down here in FL - their workmanship and tire knowledge is lousy and they have let me down too many times.
I have a '98 EX-V6 that has had only minor problems. On the whole it's been a very reliable and solid car.
I'm having a problem now with the standard burglar alarm system. When I unlock the car with the key, the alarm goes off (horn beeping, lights flashing). The only way to avoid the alarm going off is to use the remote. This isn't a big problem, but I'm worried about when the battery in the key fob dies and I can't use the remote. This problem also renders the valet key unusable. I mentioned this to the service rep at my dealer, but he couldn't help me. Anybody have any ideas about what might be causing it and how to fix it?
I changed the timing belts and water pump at about 86000 miles on my 1993 Accord. Most people recommend 90000 miles for belts and water pump replacement on Hondas. Toyotas need those to replaced at 60000 miles. But I didn't take any chances and I changed earlier. I didn't have any problems prior the belt and water pumps replacement. The car runs great before and after.
...if you're experience is what you say then why did you bother to ask about the dealer's recomendation to replace the water pump?? You seem to know the answer already. You asked for info - I gave you my experience and labeled it YMMV.
My experience was that the pump was less than $75. Since I was already paying over $200 in labor for the timing belt it was a no brainer for me. Was the pump bad - I don't know but I do know that the $75 was short money compared to redoing the job.
Service Departments/Dealers upsell, it's up to you to decide what to do.
is there any other differences between the coupe and the sedan? except for the different shape, thicker rear stabilizer bar for coupe, thinner tires on ex-v6 for coupe?
Had a noisy right front wheel bearing. Went to dealer to buy new bearing. Would not sell me just the bearing. New bearing comes mounted on new hub as one unit for big $$. Went to bearing supply co. Bought bearing, same make and #. $50. Replaced bearing myself. Cost: $50 plus my time. Love my Honda Accord but not dealer.
Frankly, I would avoid a dealer for this kind of tire swap, for lots of reasons.
Go to TireRack.com, or call them, and enter your zip to get a list of their recommended shops in your area for tire installations. These generally have the latest equipment and have gotten good reports from Tire Rack customers.
And thanks for the complete explanation of what you're doing - sounds rational to me, except I have my reservations about the Dunlops as a solution to vibration problems - my fingers are crossed for you....
Do a Yahoo using OBD + fuel tank. There's a number of different sites describing this tank pressurization.
By the way, we've heard that noise since the day we got the car. It wasn't something that developed. But it did take me over a year to realize that it was our car making the noise...where I live, you can hear noises from factories several miles away, when the wind is right. We really thought it was a horn at one of the mills!
It is a good idea to change water pump when the time you replace the timing belts and other belts. So you won't have to take the whole thing apart again. And you can go to www.manhonda.com for genuine Honda water pumps from less than $40.00 for 76-89 Accords to less than $140.00 for Passports. Other Honda parts and accessories prices are competitive.
I have an electrical problem with my 93 Accord. I recently have an "ABS" light on, headlights and dash lights went dim, both RPM & MPH went down and radio went off for only few seconds. The car is not stall. This is happened when the AC is on and the alternator is charging up. It looks like it has low voltage. I have no problem with starting. Few days ago, my car suddenly stalled for the first time. I have to shift it to "Park" and started the car again. Then it ran OK. Is anyone know what happen?
Thanks altair....I noticed the sound right after I got mine....although its a 98 I got it in January of 2002 (low mileage for a great price). Since it only had 27K on it, I figured it was a "feature" of the car.
Just had the front pads replaced on my 2k v6 accord at 32k miles. Does this seem a little soon? I didn't actually see the pads before they were replaced, but I was starting to get a grinding sensation during hard braking. They said the rotors were not scored, but they turned them anyway as a normal part of their brake job. A Honda dealer I should add. What about that brake wear indicator that is supposed to start screeching when the pads are getting worn out? I never heard anything of that nature either. The brake job cost $184 which broke down to $124 labor and $60 for the pads. Had the brake fluid changed too for @ $70. Do these prices seem about right for dealer services?
Brake life IMHO is all dependent on how you drive. My 98 Accord had the rears done at 30K and the fronts done at 45K - the orginal front pads were replaced at 15K when my dealer replaced the rotors under warranty. This Accord is an auto. My previous one went 112K before I needed the fronts done - that was a stick.
For the rears I paid $131 labor (2.5 hrs) and $67 for parts - total with hazmat and tax - appx $210.00 at dealer. For the fronts I paid $105 labor and $55 parts at an independent.
$184 sounds pretty good from a dealer. Then again it depends on where you live. $20 to park for 4 hours in here in Boston is reasonable :-)
The coupe has sportier front seats and aluminum dash trim instead of fake wood. BTW, tire widths are the same for the sedan and coupe but coupe has 16" wheel/tires and 60-series tires versus 65-series for the sedan.
I replaced the front pads on my '99 at about 40K. They could've gone another 3-5K. They did start to give me a slight grinding feel around 35K. I pulled the wheels and was surprised that they had plenty of pad left. But shortly after that, they started squeaking (badly), until I couldn't take it anymore and just replaced them. The rotors were fine. The rear pads were in good shape as well. I drove the car another 10K before I traded it.
Check your battery terminal connections and check the battery-problems in both areas can do very strange things. Start with the cheapest possible issues first before spending bucks.
IMHO, turning rotors that are not warped is not only unnecessary but increases the risk of rotor warping because after turning the rotors are thinner. This is an example of a dealer selling up-would not go near that dealer again. Have used non oem brake pads on all the accords I have driven and maintained and not one problem. Used Beck Arnley and Autozone. Cost is under $20 and takes less time to replace them myself than screw around with a dealer and put up with their selling up.
My 92 Accord was loosing fluid. Return pipe at steering gearbox was rusted out. Does anybody know, if spraying underbody with oil on a yearly basis would prevent this from happening?
You may want to check your battery - I agree with bburton1 #2990. I had a similar problem - my car stalled at a stop light - i had to restart and it ran fine. Two days later my battery died and I replaced it - it was 4 1/2 years old.
Thanks to all who replied to my post concerning front brakes. I wasn't particularly thrilled at getting the rotors turned if it wasn't needed, but dealer #1 wanted $179 and didn't include it. As far as thinning the rotors, IF DONE RIGHT there should only be a very modest reduction in thickness I would think. What really gets my goat is that I had the tires rotated and brakes checked at 30k at dealer #1 and they said they were "OK at this time". 2k later and having mentioned the grinding sensation to dealer #2 they now need replacement. Since I dropped the car off at 1030 and they didn't get to it until 1430, it was very unlikely I would be there to see for myself what condition the pads were in. Certainly leaves a doubt in my mind, but it's done and done now so no sense in getting too upset I guess.
I called my dealer today to get a price for the 30K service - $439.95! After I got back up off the floor, I kindly asked them to fax me their service checklist so I could compare it to the owner's manual. They appear to be using the severe schedule, which is ok with me for driving in FL. The additions I noted were:
-replace sparks plugs (manual says 105K) -replace brake fluid (manual says 45K) -add motor oil conditioner (manual say not req.) -add fuel injector cleaner -inspect paint for scratches and stone chipping
That was a lot more than I expected, especially in light of what I've read here in this forum. I was thinking maybe somewhere between $175-$250. Unfortunately, the two other Honda dealers nearby are an hours drive in opposite directions.
First, I do all the simple stuff on the list (I change my own oil & filter, air filter, top off fluids). Save all receipts for warranty purposes (I personally tear off the end of the boxes with the part numbers and write the date and mileage of the install and throw them all in a pocket folder).
Second, I give the dealer a written note itemizing the stuff on the maintenance schedule that you haven't done yourself. Get the quote on the work you need, not on the upsell that they want to give you.
If you operate within the severe driving description, go with that schedule (I do).
Does your state have a safety inspection program? If so, a whole lot of the "check this, check that" stuff on the maintenance schedule is included in the state safety inspection, like check boots, check brake pads and rotors, etc.
This saves you money and stops the upsell.
If you want the injection cleaner, get a bottle of Techron at your local auto parts store or Target. Dump it in the tank at 2 fillups before your next oil change. Under ten bucks, and it's good stuff.
The oil conditioner, IMHO, is pure dealer profit.
If you're not up to the task of DIY, just photocopy the maintenance schedule and tell them to do the work specified on it only, nothing else. Even that will save you a few bucks.
It sounds like they know that in your geographical area they have a captive audience and are taking full advantage of the situation.
I know what you mean. Dealer wanted $399 for v6 30k service. This also included replacing plugs which isn't required until 105k even under severe conditions. It didn't include replacing cabin air filter which is recommended in owner's manual. Since I put only around 10k miles a year on the car, some items I do myself because of time and not mileage. And having the Honda Care extended warranty makes me probably tend to over maintain in some areas. i.e tranny fluid, coolant and air filter at 24 mos. oil and filter 3k-4k. Most of the items in these services are "check" this or "inspect" that and I feel I can check and inspect with the best of 'em. And I don't think not being able to prove these checks or inspections were done will void my warranty. Required fluid and parts replacements need documentation. For example, the 7500 service in manual is oil and filter change and tire rotation. Dealer wants $90 bucks for it. Cause they're checking and inspecting the things I already do-lights, tires, belts, wiper blades. Only they get $75 per hour to do them.
Thanks - I do many of these things myself too. I think I just posted this to see what other folks have been charged. I have no intention of paying them that much. I was more surprised than anything else. I'm taking the car in for warranty issues soon (rattles, etc.). Basically I just need them to change my ATF.
Rust Check or similar products, are they effective long term or are they another rip of? Does anybody have long term expierence with undercoating like more than 10 years?
I finally floored my car the other night and to my amazement it shifted way before redline. It shifted into 2nd when it barely reached 6000(300 short)and it shifted into third at 5800(500 short!). Is there something wrong with my car? Could it be the intake affecting the computer? Is it because it only has 850 miles? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
th83, I don't think My car shifts exactly at redline either. Most automatic equipped cars usually shift a few hundred RPM before redline, I believe. I'll check on my car and let you know.
Comments
On the ongoing discussion about the accord stock tires, I agree that the opinion of a strong voice on the internet can make things seem a lot worse. Bunk, remember the testers put these cars through high speed slalom tests. Unless you are going to do that, I wouldn't worry so much. But remember, tires can always be changed. I wouldn't make it a basis for not purchasing a car. I bet when you drive the car you will find that they are fine. And if they turn out to bother you, maybe drive the first year on the stock ones to get some value out of them and replace them. Unless of course you can find someone willing to purchase them from you.
I have a 1996 Accord LX with automatic transmission, with only 42K miles. Recently I found niticeable jerk when the car shifts gears from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th.
What could possibly be the problem?
Thanks for your insight.
1) Did anyone else experience a similar problem? Or if this problem has been discussed in the forum, maybe someone can refer me the post?
2) Is this type of problem covered under the 3 years/50,000 miles warranty? My dealer isn’t sure...
Thanks in advance for you help!
Don't give off the scent that it might not be covered. They'll pick that up like a shark picks up on blood in the water.
If they continue to "wonder if it's covered", start squawking loudly, drag your salesman into the mix, make it look like you'll make a scene right there, right now.
If it's not covered, what exactly would be covered? Sometimes you have to play hardball.
PS: I had this happen on a 87 Golf - it was the underhood temperature sensor that would determine if the fan should run or not after the engine was shut off. That episode made me very leery of those run-on fans. The fan would shut off immediately if I disconnected that sensor. The sensor was pretty cheap, IIRC.
Whether that's meaningful advice in reference to a much newer car made by a different manufacturer is questionable, but I throw it out for your consideration.
Am I safe to assume that the 4-lug alloys on my '00 SE have a 6" rim width, and that the alloys on the same year EX-V6 had a 6.5" rim width? If this is true, were the EX's rims offset one way or the other, or was the difference split? In other words, was the extra .5" pushed in or out in relation to the wheel well?
I'm the one who wanted to put the 205/65-15 X-Ones from my van on the Accord. I've moved from the "thinking" phase to the "gonna do it today" phase, so I hope you're around
195/65-15 MXV4+
Rim Range: 5"-7"
Meas. Rim Width: 6"
Sect. Width: 8"
Overall Diameter: 24.9"
205/65-15 X-One
Rim Range: 5"-7.5"
Meas. Rim Width: 6"
Sect. Width: 8.2"
Overall Diameter: 25.3"
205/65-15 MXV4+
Rim Range: 5.5"-7.5"
Meas. Rim Width: 6"
Sect. Width: 8.5"
Overall Diameter: 25.5"
I threw the 205/65 MXV4+ info in there just for FYI. Thanks again for your help!
Yes, the V6's wheels are 0.5 inch wider; no, I don't know how the wheel offset handles the difference between the two cars. I suppose it is theoretically possible that the extra section width of the tire could pose some kind of clearance problem with the suspension pieces, but I really, really doubt that this should be a problem.
I think you can mount 205s on the 4 cyl that currently has 195s, as long as you remember the caveats about odometer error, and the fact that the speedo will now be right on, with no buffer for speeding tickets. If that is the question, I believe the answer is "yes" - it is hard for me to imagine that there will be any clearance problems -but to be safe, you might try mounting one wheel on the front at the tire shop before tearing all of them down. You can eyeball this, as well - try slipping your hand over the top of the tire, wrapping your fingers down the inside between the tire and the suspension piece, and see/feel how much clearance currently exists. You need only an extra 5mm [one half of the difference in section width] to make it work. It's that extra .6" of rolling diameter that you need to be aware of - it will decrease your odo's readings by maybe 2%.
I hope this answers the question you have in mind.
What kind of van are you talking about, just out of curiousity?
Follow the listing in the owner's manual. I believe most Accords are 90K miles.
Honda's have interference engines - that is if the timing belt breaks, then parts start running into each other and breaking into very expensive chunks. I don't know the reasoning behind using this design - I presume there is some technical purpose.
To get to the timing belt requires removal of the water pump. It's one of those things that since you're paying the labor to pull it out, you might as well spend another few $ and replace it. It may not be gone but it has worn some at 90K.
Goog luck and YMMV.
When I park my 1998 Accord Coupe V6 in my gravel driveway, it makes noise while the car is not running. Periodically, there is a buzzing/humming sound that comes from somewhere towards the back of the car. Sounds like an electronic device that is doing something in there. Is it some kind of ride leveling device? Thanks.
I read elsewhere that cars with the OBDII (on-board diagnostics) have a system to verify the integrity of the fuel system, i.e., is it leaking fumes into the atmosphere (unburned fuel vapor is blamed for causing smog air pollution).
I think we're hearing a pump that's maintaining pressure in the fuel tank and conductng the test. I know if you leave the fuel cap off you'll get a check engine light.
Anyone else able to verify this?
Broke one timing belt-no valve problems-some people swear these are interference engines-the Honda tech who replaced my timing belt said the IV was not an interference engine unless you had carbon on the valves. Uh-he then tried to sell me a pricey 3M carbon removal service. Then grinned and asked him what was his spiff on this service and he grinned-would not say.
My advice would be if coolant is leaking out the vent in the WP or the bearing is rough/loose-replace it. If not be brave and save a few bucks.
By the way, do you remember where you read about the OBDII??
OK, the new X-Ones (205/65, currently on the steel wheels on the Mazda) are coming off and going on my Accord. I will definitely have the tire shop do one tire first like you suggested. I'm almost certain it will work fine too.
Do you think I should have the Honda dealer mount the X-Ones on the Accord, or might they hassle me about the non-oem tire size? Maybe I should look around for a good quality independent tire shop. I'm through with the large tire chain store down here in FL - their workmanship and tire knowledge is lousy and they have let me down too many times.
I'm having a problem now with the standard burglar alarm system. When I unlock the car with the key, the alarm goes off (horn beeping, lights flashing). The only way to avoid the alarm going off is to use the remote. This isn't a big problem, but I'm worried about when the battery in the key fob dies and I can't use the remote. This problem also renders the valet key unusable. I mentioned this to the service rep at my dealer, but he couldn't help me. Anybody have any ideas about what might be causing it and how to fix it?
My experience was that the pump was less than $75. Since I was already paying over $200 in labor for the timing belt it was a no brainer for me. Was the pump bad - I don't know but I do know that the $75 was short money compared to redoing the job.
Service Departments/Dealers upsell, it's up to you to decide what to do.
Go to TireRack.com, or call them, and enter your zip to get a list of their recommended shops in your area for tire installations. These generally have the latest equipment and have gotten good reports from Tire Rack customers.
And thanks for the complete explanation of what you're doing - sounds rational to me, except I have my reservations about the Dunlops as a solution to vibration problems - my fingers are crossed for you....
I mean, it's right there, exposed. If it fails six months later the whole thing has to come apart again!
http://www.lauderdalebmw.com/ps/engine_light.html
Do a Yahoo using OBD + fuel tank. There's a number of different sites describing this tank pressurization.
By the way, we've heard that noise since the day we got the car. It wasn't something that developed. But it did take me over a year to realize that it was our car making the noise...where I live, you can hear noises from factories several miles away, when the wind is right. We really thought it was a horn at one of the mills!
For the rears I paid $131 labor (2.5 hrs) and $67 for parts - total with hazmat and tax - appx $210.00 at dealer. For the fronts I paid $105 labor and $55 parts at an independent.
$184 sounds pretty good from a dealer. Then again it depends on where you live. $20 to park for 4 hours in here in Boston is reasonable :-)
I drive on salted roads in winter.
-replace sparks plugs (manual says 105K)
-replace brake fluid (manual says 45K)
-add motor oil conditioner (manual say not req.)
-add fuel injector cleaner
-inspect paint for scratches and stone chipping
That was a lot more than I expected, especially in light of what I've read here in this forum. I was thinking maybe somewhere between $175-$250. Unfortunately, the two other Honda dealers nearby are an hours drive in opposite directions.
First, I do all the simple stuff on the list (I change my own oil & filter, air filter, top off fluids). Save all receipts for warranty purposes (I personally tear off the end of the boxes with the part numbers and write the date and mileage of the install and throw them all in a pocket folder).
Second, I give the dealer a written note itemizing the stuff on the maintenance schedule that you haven't done yourself. Get the quote on the work you need, not on the upsell that they want to give you.
If you operate within the severe driving description, go with that schedule (I do).
Does your state have a safety inspection program? If so, a whole lot of the "check this, check that" stuff on the maintenance schedule is included in the state safety inspection, like check boots, check brake pads and rotors, etc.
This saves you money and stops the upsell.
If you want the injection cleaner, get a bottle of Techron at your local auto parts store or Target. Dump it in the tank at 2 fillups before your next oil change. Under ten bucks, and it's good stuff.
The oil conditioner, IMHO, is pure dealer profit.
If you're not up to the task of DIY, just photocopy the maintenance schedule and tell them to do the work specified on it only, nothing else. Even that will save you a few bucks.
It sounds like they know that in your geographical area they have a captive audience and are taking full advantage of the situation.
As always, YMMV. In the end, do what you want.
For example, the 7500 service in manual is oil and filter change and tire rotation. Dealer wants $90 bucks for it. Cause they're checking and inspecting the things I already do-lights, tires, belts, wiper blades. Only they get $75 per hour to do them.