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On the ongoing discussion about the accord stock tires, I agree that the opinion of a strong voice on the internet can make things seem a lot worse. Bunk, remember the testers put these cars through high speed slalom tests. Unless you are going to do that, I wouldn't worry so much. But remember, tires can always be changed. I wouldn't make it a basis for not purchasing a car. I bet when you drive the car you will find that they are fine. And if they turn out to bother you, maybe drive the first year on the stock ones to get some value out of them and replace them. Unless of course you can find someone willing to purchase them from you.
I have a 1996 Accord LX with automatic transmission, with only 42K miles. Recently I found niticeable jerk when the car shifts gears from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th.
What could possibly be the problem?
Thanks for your insight.
1) Did anyone else experience a similar problem? Or if this problem has been discussed in the forum, maybe someone can refer me the post?
2) Is this type of problem covered under the 3 years/50,000 miles warranty? My dealer isn’t sure...
Thanks in advance for you help!
Don't give off the scent that it might not be covered. They'll pick that up like a shark picks up on blood in the water.
If they continue to "wonder if it's covered", start squawking loudly, drag your salesman into the mix, make it look like you'll make a scene right there, right now.
If it's not covered, what exactly would be covered? Sometimes you have to play hardball.
PS: I had this happen on a 87 Golf - it was the underhood temperature sensor that would determine if the fan should run or not after the engine was shut off. That episode made me very leery of those run-on fans. The fan would shut off immediately if I disconnected that sensor. The sensor was pretty cheap, IIRC.
Whether that's meaningful advice in reference to a much newer car made by a different manufacturer is questionable, but I throw it out for your consideration.
Am I safe to assume that the 4-lug alloys on my '00 SE have a 6" rim width, and that the alloys on the same year EX-V6 had a 6.5" rim width? If this is true, were the EX's rims offset one way or the other, or was the difference split? In other words, was the extra .5" pushed in or out in relation to the wheel well?
I'm the one who wanted to put the 205/65-15 X-Ones from my van on the Accord. I've moved from the "thinking" phase to the "gonna do it today" phase, so I hope you're around
195/65-15 MXV4+
Rim Range: 5"-7"
Meas. Rim Width: 6"
Sect. Width: 8"
Overall Diameter: 24.9"
205/65-15 X-One
Rim Range: 5"-7.5"
Meas. Rim Width: 6"
Sect. Width: 8.2"
Overall Diameter: 25.3"
205/65-15 MXV4+
Rim Range: 5.5"-7.5"
Meas. Rim Width: 6"
Sect. Width: 8.5"
Overall Diameter: 25.5"
I threw the 205/65 MXV4+ info in there just for FYI. Thanks again for your help!
Yes, the V6's wheels are 0.5 inch wider; no, I don't know how the wheel offset handles the difference between the two cars. I suppose it is theoretically possible that the extra section width of the tire could pose some kind of clearance problem with the suspension pieces, but I really, really doubt that this should be a problem.
I think you can mount 205s on the 4 cyl that currently has 195s, as long as you remember the caveats about odometer error, and the fact that the speedo will now be right on, with no buffer for speeding tickets. If that is the question, I believe the answer is "yes" - it is hard for me to imagine that there will be any clearance problems -but to be safe, you might try mounting one wheel on the front at the tire shop before tearing all of them down. You can eyeball this, as well - try slipping your hand over the top of the tire, wrapping your fingers down the inside between the tire and the suspension piece, and see/feel how much clearance currently exists. You need only an extra 5mm [one half of the difference in section width] to make it work. It's that extra .6" of rolling diameter that you need to be aware of - it will decrease your odo's readings by maybe 2%.
I hope this answers the question you have in mind.
What kind of van are you talking about, just out of curiousity?
Follow the listing in the owner's manual. I believe most Accords are 90K miles.
Honda's have interference engines - that is if the timing belt breaks, then parts start running into each other and breaking into very expensive chunks. I don't know the reasoning behind using this design - I presume there is some technical purpose.
To get to the timing belt requires removal of the water pump. It's one of those things that since you're paying the labor to pull it out, you might as well spend another few $ and replace it. It may not be gone but it has worn some at 90K.
Goog luck and YMMV.
When I park my 1998 Accord Coupe V6 in my gravel driveway, it makes noise while the car is not running. Periodically, there is a buzzing/humming sound that comes from somewhere towards the back of the car. Sounds like an electronic device that is doing something in there. Is it some kind of ride leveling device? Thanks.
I read elsewhere that cars with the OBDII (on-board diagnostics) have a system to verify the integrity of the fuel system, i.e., is it leaking fumes into the atmosphere (unburned fuel vapor is blamed for causing smog air pollution).
I think we're hearing a pump that's maintaining pressure in the fuel tank and conductng the test. I know if you leave the fuel cap off you'll get a check engine light.
Anyone else able to verify this?
Broke one timing belt-no valve problems-some people swear these are interference engines-the Honda tech who replaced my timing belt said the IV was not an interference engine unless you had carbon on the valves. Uh-he then tried to sell me a pricey 3M carbon removal service. Then grinned and asked him what was his spiff on this service and he grinned-would not say.
My advice would be if coolant is leaking out the vent in the WP or the bearing is rough/loose-replace it. If not be brave and save a few bucks.
By the way, do you remember where you read about the OBDII??
OK, the new X-Ones (205/65, currently on the steel wheels on the Mazda) are coming off and going on my Accord. I will definitely have the tire shop do one tire first like you suggested. I'm almost certain it will work fine too.
Do you think I should have the Honda dealer mount the X-Ones on the Accord, or might they hassle me about the non-oem tire size? Maybe I should look around for a good quality independent tire shop. I'm through with the large tire chain store down here in FL - their workmanship and tire knowledge is lousy and they have let me down too many times.
I'm having a problem now with the standard burglar alarm system. When I unlock the car with the key, the alarm goes off (horn beeping, lights flashing). The only way to avoid the alarm going off is to use the remote. This isn't a big problem, but I'm worried about when the battery in the key fob dies and I can't use the remote. This problem also renders the valet key unusable. I mentioned this to the service rep at my dealer, but he couldn't help me. Anybody have any ideas about what might be causing it and how to fix it?
My experience was that the pump was less than $75. Since I was already paying over $200 in labor for the timing belt it was a no brainer for me. Was the pump bad - I don't know but I do know that the $75 was short money compared to redoing the job.
Service Departments/Dealers upsell, it's up to you to decide what to do.
Go to TireRack.com, or call them, and enter your zip to get a list of their recommended shops in your area for tire installations. These generally have the latest equipment and have gotten good reports from Tire Rack customers.
And thanks for the complete explanation of what you're doing - sounds rational to me, except I have my reservations about the Dunlops as a solution to vibration problems - my fingers are crossed for you....
I mean, it's right there, exposed. If it fails six months later the whole thing has to come apart again!
http://www.lauderdalebmw.com/ps/engine_light.html
Do a Yahoo using OBD + fuel tank. There's a number of different sites describing this tank pressurization.
By the way, we've heard that noise since the day we got the car. It wasn't something that developed. But it did take me over a year to realize that it was our car making the noise...where I live, you can hear noises from factories several miles away, when the wind is right. We really thought it was a horn at one of the mills!
For the rears I paid $131 labor (2.5 hrs) and $67 for parts - total with hazmat and tax - appx $210.00 at dealer. For the fronts I paid $105 labor and $55 parts at an independent.
$184 sounds pretty good from a dealer. Then again it depends on where you live. $20 to park for 4 hours in here in Boston is reasonable :-)
I drive on salted roads in winter.
-replace sparks plugs (manual says 105K)
-replace brake fluid (manual says 45K)
-add motor oil conditioner (manual say not req.)
-add fuel injector cleaner
-inspect paint for scratches and stone chipping
That was a lot more than I expected, especially in light of what I've read here in this forum. I was thinking maybe somewhere between $175-$250. Unfortunately, the two other Honda dealers nearby are an hours drive in opposite directions.
First, I do all the simple stuff on the list (I change my own oil & filter, air filter, top off fluids). Save all receipts for warranty purposes (I personally tear off the end of the boxes with the part numbers and write the date and mileage of the install and throw them all in a pocket folder).
Second, I give the dealer a written note itemizing the stuff on the maintenance schedule that you haven't done yourself. Get the quote on the work you need, not on the upsell that they want to give you.
If you operate within the severe driving description, go with that schedule (I do).
Does your state have a safety inspection program? If so, a whole lot of the "check this, check that" stuff on the maintenance schedule is included in the state safety inspection, like check boots, check brake pads and rotors, etc.
This saves you money and stops the upsell.
If you want the injection cleaner, get a bottle of Techron at your local auto parts store or Target. Dump it in the tank at 2 fillups before your next oil change. Under ten bucks, and it's good stuff.
The oil conditioner, IMHO, is pure dealer profit.
If you're not up to the task of DIY, just photocopy the maintenance schedule and tell them to do the work specified on it only, nothing else. Even that will save you a few bucks.
It sounds like they know that in your geographical area they have a captive audience and are taking full advantage of the situation.
As always, YMMV. In the end, do what you want.
For example, the 7500 service in manual is oil and filter change and tire rotation. Dealer wants $90 bucks for it. Cause they're checking and inspecting the things I already do-lights, tires, belts, wiper blades. Only they get $75 per hour to do them.