Yep, mine suffered from a back seat rattle and dash rattle as well. But both were superceded by a more irritating popping sound when turning, stopping or starting.
We have owned a 2003 Accord EXL w/NAV (4Cyl) since February. We have noticed 3 minor issues:
1. Rattle from the front passenger air vent area -- is this the A-pillar issue?
2. Slight vibration while stopped when the climate control is on, will ask the dealer about a fuel additive mentioned on this board.
3. Helicopter sound from the radio while on certain AM stations (our other vehicle radios do have this)-- anyone have the radio problem?
Other than these minor irritants we love the vehicle -- hope they can work out these issues. This is our first Honda and we will be interested in the dealers response to these issues.
No, a rattle in the left vent does not sound like the popping sound. It is a definite and distinctive single and sometime back to back "pop" when stopping, starting, or turning, when the chassis flexes. You'll know it if it starts up-there is no mistaking it for a rattle.
I bought a 2003 Accord 4dr. EX-L Navi about 4 months ago. I heard rattles in the dashboard almost immediately. One is by the left dashboard, anbd if I hold on the left part of the hangover part of the dash, it stopped. They screwed it tighter and it stopped. However, I notice more rattles in the middle and right of the dash now. Also, on the navi, the 3rd fan setting won't work by touch, you have to use the mouse to change to that setting. They are ordering me a new screen. Finally, it sometimes seems like a door or window is open, because I can hear the water on the ground if it's raining, or just wind. It's not as quiet as I had hoped. Other than that, it's a pretty good car. Decent value compared to other cars in the price range. The fuel economy isn't what I had expected either. I'm averaging around 21.5 mpg with the 4 cyl. They hype 24 city/34 hwy. Granted, I drive more city, but it's still low.
I just had the engine oil and filter changed at 3,000 miles by the Honda dealer. I am using an upper cylinder lubricant for the valves, guides, rings and fuel injectors. (Marvel Mystery Oil 4 ounces to each 10 gallons of fuel),and 92 octane fuel. The engine idles very smooth. No vibration at idle. The vehicle is GREAT! ----Just my opinion. ----Greg
I am not a salesman for Marvel Mystery Oil. I am a retired Industrial Arts Teacher from New Jersey Public Schools. Over the years, I have taught Auto Mechanics, Computer Aided Drafting, Woodworking --etc. My hobby has been automotive engines, having started in this area back in the mid 50's. When all the other young people were playing sports in elementary school, I would "hang around" an engine repair facility and learn by observation. In those years the Marvel Oil Company would sell an "inverse oiler" that ran off the vacuum of the engine. Under load, the "oiler" would allow MM oil into the intake system to lubricate the upper cylinder. I believe that these oilers are still available, but you can achieve the same results, by just pouring 4 ounces of MM oil into the fuel tank for each 10 gallons of fuel. Picture pouring 4 ounces of orange juice into 10 gallons of water. At that ratio, the water would not even change color. I put this product in both my 2000 Honda Civic, and my 2003 Honda 4 cylinder Accord. I have a friend who uses this product in fuel of a large oil injected 2 cycle Yamaha outboard. Since he started to using this product, he said that the engine is very smooth and quiet. I am not trying to push this product on anyone, but rather, I am trying to offer some help. If you notice on the other boards Toyota is having problems with sludge in their engines. Some owners are complaining about fuel contamination in the oil of their engines. If carbon locks the pistons rings, they cannot follow the cylinder walls, thus compression is lost, and raw fuel can leak past the rings and into the crankcase. MM oil can control the formation of carbon. -----Just my opinion. ----Greg
Did you ever check into the composition of the MM oil? It would appear that engine oil from below the rings on the cylinder wall would lubricate the rings. The oil in the fuel would be burned during the high temperature explosion; it would not survive to lubricate the rings below the explosion. What an upper cylinder lube _might_ do is affect the deposits on the intake valve, slightly lube the moving part of the injector (probably doesn't need it by design), and more important is it might lube the fuel pump. I had used an upper cylinder lube when I heard the BMWs had a fuel pump noise problem and a lube in the gas seemed to quiet it and extend the life. I had an 1989 model car with a noisy pump. I didn't want to put in a new fuel pump. Now I believe not letting the gas level get low and not running empty keeps the fuel pumps lubed. They're probably better engineered than they were 15 years ago...
After reading my last posting, I noticed that I did not answer one of your questions. You can purchase Marvel Mystery Oil at auto stores like Pep Boys. I carry a small glass jar that I have marked in increments of 2 ounces. A "Horseradish jar" is great for this project. Prior to getting fuel, I pour four ounces into this jar, and pour it into the tank. I let the incoming fuel from the pump mix the oil with the fuel. The amount of oil that I pour into the jar depends on the fuel gage. If I am empty or at 1/2, I will pour 4, 6 or 8 ounces of fuel into the jar (depending on the capacity of the tank). The Civic holds 11 gallons, while the Accord holds 17 gallons. A little more or less does not matter, as long as you have some in the fuel. ---Greg
As I stated earlier, one of the advantages of using MM oil in the fuel is to control the formation of carbon in the grooves of the piston that contain the rings. By design, compression is allowed to get behind the rings to force them against the cylinder walls. If compression can get behind the rings, so can carbon. MM oil controls the formation of carbon. This is a very popular product in marine inboard & I/O engines. In some marinas, you will notice that they sell fuel that contains an upper cylinder lubricant called "Valvetec". This is because marine engines work VERY hard, and they are prone to produce carbon. -----Greg
Here's a link to a message in the Temple of VTEC forums... he says that there's a fix for the popping sound. It deals with faulty mounting of the headliner clips and the headliner itself. He says there's a service bulletin about it. Let's hope he's right!
I see on the internet Marvel is now a Turtle wax company product. That does not help its image for me. They give _no_ information about its composition or efficacy. As to the piston rings being oiled from gasoline additives..., the oil in gasoline will be burned. It may add more carbon to the burned mixture to clog the rings. Adding an oil is going to increase the ash production. The gasolines have additives to clean injectors and minimize carbon ash production. Adding an oil is going to increase that ash being more likely to carbonize the rings. The oil from the engine should contain additives to minimize carbon formation in the rings. If not, try adding Rislone to the oil. It clears sludge from engines well. Just my opinion...
I am having trouble playing CD-R's in my 2000 accord coupe EXV6. Does anyone know of a particular brand of CD-R that will play in a 2000 Honda Accord EXV6? Are other Honda Accord owners having trouble playing CD-R's.
I notice that sometimes, in my girlfriends 01 civic, it will not play certain types of CD-R's. Dont get the cheaps ones ( 100 for like 5 bucks). I believe Memorex work correctly, everytime in her car. Good luck. Then again, go out and buy one of those Cd cleaners, that might do the trick.
I have a EXV6--I feel every bump in the road--and it pulls to the right--the dealer refuses to acknowledge anything--anyone else have these problems?
Also--one of the tires blew the first time I took it out==anyone else know about these tires--I will contact DOT to see if there are other blow outs on the Michelin.
dont know how to handle this--should I write Honda or what??
I keep hearing this ingoing problem... When does the pulling occur ( Road surfaces). The only time I experienced this was on roads up state which were grooved for frost reasons. Other then that the car is fine.
Did the right front tire blow-did it continue to pull right after replacement. Tires can have significant rolling resistance when there are problems in the plies/body of the tire-they get really hot and can blow. Had it happen to a friend's tire when water got in the belting and it started to come apart-found it before it blew.
When it comes time to replace your tires-check out the ratings at tirerack-you will find some much better options than your current set of tires.
Well I am back - it turns out that the timing belt did not skip a cog after all (It looked pristine and everything was lined up perfectly) I guess the rebuilt distributor itself could be faulty (already have another one on the way to check). Unfortunately Honda does not sell them anymore, so I have to go aftermarket for the distributor.
Any other ideas. The computer does not throw a code.
Ok, so I live in Los Angeles, North Hollywood to be exact. I bought my car about 1 month ago and have not had any of these problems. No popping, no creaks, no flexing, no rotten egg smell...nothing. I love my car. It drives well, accelerates well and brakes well. I do not see too many in my area, but I am sure I will in the future.
Now this is not to say, that I will not have any problems, but right now everything is fine and I love my first Honda. I think it is an incredible vehicle for the money and I love the graphite pearl. The leather seats are plush and the drive is smooth, quiet and solid.
You guys with the snaps, crackles and pops in your Accords must have bought the Accord RC edition-Accord Rice Crispy! (just a little, slightly lame joke, no offense intended)
Thats strange that they dont sell them any more. I just put one in a 91 accord not that long ago and they didnt mention anything about them going out. If I can remember I will ask my parts department and see what they say. Is it a 1990 Integra that you have? 2dr/4dr? Are you sure the ignition timing is correct? Some models you have to jump a connector but dont know if this applies to a Acura or not. There is also some Honda models in the early 90s that had 2 differant timing marks depending on 1500 or 1600 motors. Just wondering on some of those things...
It is a 90 Acura Integra 2 door hatch RS model. It has the 1.8 liter engine and manual transmission. I did not know about jumping a connector. I have the Acura shop manual, so I can double check on that.
the car continues to pull right even with the next new tire..the dealer wont even return my call on this...I finally saw a review that mentioned the rough ride on the new accord and the pulling to the right...they must know about it...can I use the lemon law here?
Get some help in the documentation required for your state-also try driving on the left side of the road with a crown-to see if the road crown is causing the pull to the left. Check out the Honda Accord site on this board-some people got their accords replaced to fix the popping noise coming from the front post.
Rough ride is probably nothing abnormal. But it shouldn't pull to the right. First of all, you need to take it in. Put the svr mgr in the car (let him drive it) and see if you can reproduce the problem. If you can convince him, you are half way there. If it still pulls and he says that's normal, get a second opinion.
I would suspect pulling is an alignment problem. If it pulls with the svr mgr driving, and he denies its a problem, take it to an independent shop and get another opinion (or a different Honda shop).
Documenting the problem is the trick. You will have to prove that something is defective with the vehicle, and that it can't be fixed after a certain number of attempts, or that the problem caused the vehicle to be out of service for a certain number of days, depending on your state.
Document every contact, call, response, by date, person and content of the conversation.
If you can show, either through a different dealer, or independant shop, that there is a defect that can't be corrected, and Honda won't deal with it, call BBBAutoline and file a complaint and get ready for arbritration.
But realize that Honda is not required, nor should they be, to replace your vehicle unless the car does, indeed, have a problem that can't be fixed, which is pretty rare. I would think pulling to the right wouldn't fall in that category as that is a condition of the alignment usually and can be adjusted.
Pulling can be a bit misleading. Today, my Toyota Avalon pulled heavily to the right. I thought something was wrong. Then I noticed a strong north wind blowing across the road to the right. It pulled left on the way home.
I have not read your other posts drudol, but my 2003 Honda Accord EX-L Sedan was pulling to the right when I first got it a month ago. I check the tire pressure and the right tire had lower pressure than the left. So needless to say, I put some air in and the problem went away.
Since my wife and I both have Honda vehicles, and we have all of our service done at the Honda dealer, periodically we receive a flyer dealing with "service specials". After reading the flyer carefully, I noticed that every 7,500 mile recommended service includes the Krex Graphite Super Lubicant with the oil change, and a Krex Fuel System and Injector Cleaner in the fuel tank. Sounds VERY similiar to my suggestion dealing with Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel. What does Honda know about "carbon" that they are not sharing with the automotive buying public????? -----Just sharing some basic information. -----Greg
It is called snake oil for a reason. Course some people have retired in warm and sunny places by coming up with a neat product idea-one product highly praised in youth turned out to be almost pure kerosene and they got a couple of bucks a quart for the stuff. There is one born every minute but if it makes you happy - use it - you are making somebody happy and hopefully not damaging your vehicle.
To let every Honda Accord V6 owner know, Honda is replacing the automatic transmissions for free!!!! I have a 1998 V6 Accord with less then 40,000 miles and started having lots of problems with the transmission. When the engine was cold, the tranny would not shift without a jolt! The transmission fluid was dark as well even through I had the transmission serviced at 30,000 miles. Honda replaced the tranny without much of any fuss from me. I guess there is a major problem with these transmissions or Honda would not be willing to go to this length to take care of their customers. My tech guy stated that his dealership has replaced hundreds of transmissions over the past year because of these problems. When I got my car back, I could not believe the difference in the way the car drove. I just hope that the new tranny will last for a long time. If you have an issue with your V6 Honda transmission, take your car in ASAP and have them look at it......My tech guy told me that these transmissions have been know to go out at any time pass 40K...
hi auburn63, i know this probably has been covered but i couldn't find the write up anywhere. my gas pedal is getting sticky, so i know i need to lubricate the throttle linkage and body, but what kind of cleaner do i need and what are the procedures for the cleaning? could you plz help me out and just tell me again? thanks thanks.
For the 98-02 model, this problem can be cured by removing the air intake hose from the throttlebody. Then hold open the throttle plate and spray throttlebody cleaner on the plate. Use a toothbrush to dislodge the black goop and wipe clean with a rag. Repeat above until clean.
Use as little cleaner as possible as it tends to flood the engine upon the first start after this procedure. Also, don't use carburator cleaner, it's much to strong for a fuel injection system.
BTW, don't brush your teeth again with this brush. LOL
This problem has been noticed by many 6th gen owners upon starting their car for the first time of the day and also if it has sat long enough to cool down between starts.
I believe auburn63 originally informed this community of this fix.
I usally use a rag soaked with carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner open the butterfly/throttle plate fully and wipe it down real good then take a (old)tooth brush as according2me said and brush off the rest. Then start the car and finish cleaning the plate with the car running as I spray in the body and work the throttle..Good luck
Thanks for responding. Since your VIN starts with a "J", we know it was built in Japan and supports the theory that the Japanese built Accords are better constructed. You have had no problems, so many others have. That is why all who report problems need to state where the car was built. I still believe that most rattle problems here are construction flaws and not design flaws.
I think yoour theory , with all due respect, well , its CRAP. Accords have been built in the US for the past 15 years, and for you to state that the ones built in the US are worse off than those produced in Japan. Well its quite ignorant and ridiculous.
Not quite. The American and Japanese factories use different suppliers, assembly lines and technics. Which can potentially make a huge difference in quality. And the Accord won't be the first model if turns to be true. Here is one example. The North American Ford Focus (in its first year of production) is ridden with mostly minor but numerous quality glitches which resulted in multilple recalls. At the same time the German build car of the same exact design has won a quality award (being the most reliable car in the 1-3 year old category) by the German Quality Survey agency - TUV.
Um, I believe we are talking about the ACCORD here, not the german/american Focus. Please provide some links or proof to back up your opinion in regards to the quility glitches between us produced accords and japan based. Thanks.
Honda uses the same manufacturing processes and equipment in all of it's plants. Saying that Japan built Accords are better may be true, but since Honda builds a majority of it's Accords in the US, if US production quality was that far off of the Japanese quality they wouldn't have the reputation for quality that they do.
Comments
Good luck with yours.
1. Rattle from the front passenger air vent area -- is this the A-pillar issue?
2. Slight vibration while stopped when the climate control is on, will ask the dealer about a fuel additive mentioned on this board.
3. Helicopter sound from the radio while on certain AM stations (our other vehicle radios do have this)-- anyone have the radio problem?
Other than these minor irritants we love the vehicle -- hope they can work out these issues. This is our first Honda and we will be interested in the dealers response to these issues.
Good Luck.
PS: Are you a salesman for the company, seems everytime you post, you mention the oil..lol..
It would appear that engine oil from below the rings on the cylinder wall would lubricate the rings. The oil in the fuel would be burned during the high temperature explosion; it would not survive to lubricate the rings below the explosion. What an upper cylinder lube _might_ do is affect the deposits on the intake valve, slightly lube the moving part of the injector (probably doesn't need it by design), and more important is it might lube the fuel pump. I had used an upper cylinder lube when I heard the BMWs had a fuel pump noise problem and a lube in the gas seemed to quiet it and extend the life. I had an 1989 model car with a noisy pump. I didn't want to put in a new fuel pump. Now I believe not letting the gas level get low and not running empty keeps the fuel pumps lubed. They're probably better engineered than they were 15 years ago...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-message?message%5fid=83897
Hopefully it won't poison the converter.
As to the piston rings being oiled from gasoline additives..., the oil in gasoline will be burned. It may add more carbon to the burned mixture to clog the rings. Adding an oil is going to increase the ash production. The gasolines have additives to clean injectors and minimize carbon ash production. Adding an oil is going to increase that ash being more likely to carbonize the rings.
The oil from the engine should contain additives to minimize carbon formation in the rings. If not, try adding Rislone to the oil. It clears sludge from engines well. Just my opinion...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tractor/msg0315253532348.- html
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also--one of the tires blew the first time I took it out==anyone else know about these tires--I will contact DOT to see if there are other blow outs on the Michelin.
dont know how to handle this--should I write Honda or what??
When it comes time to replace your tires-check out the ratings at tirerack-you will find some much better options than your current set of tires.
Well I am back - it turns out that the timing belt did not skip a cog after all (It looked pristine and everything was lined up perfectly) I guess the rebuilt distributor itself could be faulty (already have another one on the way to check). Unfortunately Honda does not sell them anymore, so I have to go aftermarket for the distributor.
Any other ideas. The computer does not throw a code.
Now this is not to say, that I will not have any problems, but right now everything is fine and I love my first Honda. I think it is an incredible vehicle for the money and I love the graphite pearl. The leather seats are plush and the drive is smooth, quiet and solid.
Thanks again for helping.
good luck and non illigitimus carborundum
I would suspect pulling is an alignment problem. If it pulls with the svr mgr driving, and he denies its a problem, take it to an independent shop and get another opinion (or a different Honda shop).
Documenting the problem is the trick. You will have to prove that something is defective with the vehicle, and that it can't be fixed after a certain number of attempts, or that the problem caused the vehicle to be out of service for a certain number of days, depending on your state.
Document every contact, call, response, by date, person and content of the conversation.
If you can show, either through a different dealer, or independant shop, that there is a defect that can't be corrected, and Honda won't deal with it, call BBBAutoline and file a complaint and get ready for arbritration.
But realize that Honda is not required, nor should they be, to replace your vehicle unless the car does, indeed, have a problem that can't be fixed, which is pretty rare. I would think pulling to the right wouldn't fall in that category as that is a condition of the alignment usually and can be adjusted.
Pulling can be a bit misleading. Today, my Toyota Avalon pulled heavily to the right. I thought something was wrong. Then I noticed a strong north wind blowing across the road to the right. It pulled left on the way home.
For the 98-02 model, this problem can be cured by removing the air intake hose from the throttlebody. Then hold open the throttle plate and spray throttlebody cleaner on the plate. Use a toothbrush to dislodge the black goop and wipe clean with a rag. Repeat above until clean.
Use as little cleaner as possible as it tends to flood the engine upon the first start after this procedure. Also, don't use carburator cleaner, it's much to strong for a fuel injection system.
BTW, don't brush your teeth again with this brush. LOL
This problem has been noticed by many 6th gen owners upon starting their car for the first time of the day and also if it has sat long enough to cool down between starts.
I believe auburn63 originally informed this community of this fix.
My VIN number starts with a "J." Are most of the problems with the Accords that start with a "1?"
The American and Japanese factories use different suppliers, assembly lines and technics. Which can potentially make a huge difference in quality.
And the Accord won't be the first model if turns to be true.
Here is one example. The North American Ford Focus (in its first year of production) is ridden with mostly minor but numerous quality glitches which resulted in multilple recalls.
At the same time the German build car of the same exact design has won a quality award (being the most reliable car in the 1-3 year old category) by the German Quality Survey agency - TUV.
I don't. Just some observations.