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Comments
Another cause of dulling I'm aware of, other than not drying the layers, is primer/paint material that's incompatible with the original paint.
Might as well go to a quality bodyshop to have this done properly once and for all. Since they'll probably repaint the whole bumper to avoid paint mismatch, the tab may not be cheap. It'll pay off when the next buyer of your car won't be able to bring it up as an issue.
As for the pillars, I think there is a problem with the c-pillar. It is way too thick and causes blind spots. Just be more cautious if you decide to drive or buy this Accord model.
Also, I don't think it's because of the airbags that affect the pillars. I believe the pillars are of the same size on all Accords.
in CA, where its never really cold, the worst tank we've seen on our EX I4 2003 Accord has been 23 mpg...which was purely stop and go city driving. overall, we see typically 27-28...on pure highway (only one such trip), we saw 36-37 driving 70-75 MPH. these numbers were all achieved in the first 4000 miles of ownership.
That's the only one of your issues that mine has.
Also, I've heard conflicting opinions regarding whether to use primarily the highest octane gas. I thought using the highest octane would bring the life back to my car, but that doesn't seem to do it. Some people say that the highest octane isn't good for all cars. Others say it is the only way to go. I'm completely clueless in that department, so obviously need some help.
Otherwise, the other issues have been resolved and I'm quite happy with the car, despite the fit I threw on this board a few weeks ago. But definitely want that quiet and smooth ride back.
Any help would be great.
You shouldn't be hearing the engine over a loud stereo in that car, so I'd go to the dealer post haste. Take the service manager for a test ride and demonstrate the noise. If they try to brush you off, demand to take another ride in a comparable demo and show that the noise doesn't happen.
Best of luck...
Here's a good link that addresses the "premium is always better" myth:
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm
If this was the case, performance would be top-notch until the next fill-up, which presumably was with regular unleaded.
How much of regular was in the tank when you put in premium ? If 1/3 full, you'd still not get that off-the-lot performance you got initiated to.
Obviously this is all hypothetical. But my 03 V-6 coupe is not as snappy as it was on day 1, like yours. I'll probably refill with premium next chance, with tank nearest to empty as possible, and see how it runs.
And aren't we kind of sending lawgirl down the garden path with this premium gas stuff? The engine roaring over the stereo at 40 isn't going to be helped by switching from regular to premium, I can guarantee it. Again, I realize that you mean well, but the bottom line is that she needs to get the car to the dealer ASAP.
Good, I'm glad to hear that you've already gotten that out of the way. I'm not at all surprised that it didn't help, since the symptoms you described didn't sound at all like insufficient octane.
All I can do is to urge you to take it in to the dealer ASAP, before the problem gets worse, or a more catastrophic breakdown occurs and leaves you stranded somewhere.
As with your past accord, you are correct. Whom ever reccomended that you put premium in, well was a fool. Sutides have shown, for pre-2003 models(accords), the car actually preformed worse.
But, with the new 2003 V6, when the car is using regular gas, due to the higher compression and lower octane rating, the spark is retarded( hence lowering the actually power derived from burning the fuel). I remember reading an article that interviewed one of the lead engineers from Honda. He stated that the V6 will experience a 10hp increase and 8 lb torque when premium is used.
That's OK... I think I'll still pass. I've seen several comments from other automotive experts who express strong skepticism about the claim... they basically pass it off as marketing hype. Besides with the breathtaking performance on regular gas, I can't imagine that the extra money would really be worth it even if it did work.
That's my take on it... obviously, YMMV, and it seems that it already has. <g>
I'll definitely be taking my car to the dealer. Let's just hope I don't get the run-around.
If the dealer does the alignment and it still pulls I would suggest you start rotating the tires and keep a record what you have done.
It drove me nuts in my 2002 Coupe, I even replaced the tires and finally found a configuration that is almost perfect.
Good luck
then i jiggled the left light then it came on now when i turn the light's on one or the other dosent come on...when I hit the top of the hood they pop on??
now I hear a squeak over the right rear tire when the car roll over a bump or a dip in the road help!!!
Well first thing that comes to mind is a sticky caliper pin or two. When they hang a bot they wear out the outside pad as well as keep some presure on the inside but not as much. This will cause the wear pattern you discribed. Other than that the system is a diagonal brake system so if you had a problem with the left rear it would also show up on the front right in some cases..But chances are the caliper slide pins were a little stuck due to the greese caking up a bit...Was the caliper bolts hard to get out or did they pull right out? nice to hear from you again..
Problem 2: I just took a 400mile road trip, all highway, from Boston to Saratoga NY. Temperature was around 40 degrees. Average speed going there was 68, coming back 71. Cruise control used most of the time, mostly set on 76 there and about 78 coming back. My average mpg for the trip was 29.7, which seems low to me. The EPA ratings are 25/31, and from experience, an all highway driving trip tends to average slightly above the highway rating. I was expecting around 33 or so in this car. My 91 Accord could average about 34 on a highway trip (EPA 24/30) and the Prelude around 30 (EPA 22/27). The same gas was used as I always buy. ANy owners of this generation comment on these aspects of their car? Thanks.
Then the dealer replaced the ignition coil + wires. Works better now.
Can you ask him to prove that you damaged the car? If not, tell him to fix it or bring it to another dealer.
I am a newcomer to this discussion group.
I just bought an 03' Accord LX V6 two weeks ago. Wonder how I can find out the exact manufacture date of it. Since I am quite worried about the problems about the broken timing belt on V6.
By the way, what is A-pillar?
Thanks for the help.
1) What part of the Accord's seats are actually leather?
2) My car has only 38K miles on it, and is garage kept. yesterday when cleaning and moisturizing the leather, I noticed the leather or vinyl starting to tear on the outside side bolsters of both front seats Has anyone else had this problem?
I love my car.
The "A" pillar is the front-most roof pillar (the one attached to the windshield).
IF the pull moves to the left now, you know you have a bad front tire. IF the pull stays to the right, switch the two back tires. If the pull stays on the right, then you have a car problem not a tire problem.
Last check is to switch back tires to the front.
Your dealer should be doing all these moves and driving the car in between to see if the tires make a difference.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
As for the pulling right thing, I noticed it too after reading posting here. That is crazy to me to happen for a brand new car. There should not be any problem to the alignment or the tire.
Go Orange! Finally, we have something to cheer about in Syracuse.
Can anybody help? Thanks.
My non-Honda car with ABS doesn't make any noises after start up.