Noticed some excess wear on right hand tire at the far outer edges of the tread on my accord with 17k miles. Tires rotated regularly and this is the only tire out of the 4 that shows this. Air pressure kept correct. Dealer says 4 wheel alignment may be needed soon. Of course, wife could have whacked curb or something since there are some pretty bad scuff marks on the wheel cover, but I would think both right tires would show same problem since they are rotated every 5k. Any thoughts anybody? Does this car really have alignment adjustments for all 4 wheels? Is a 4 wheel alignment really necessary considering only 1 tire has problem. Could the tire itself be faulty?
Just took the 91 Accord out for a drive and noticed that there is a slight shudder when starting from a dead stop. Any thoughts? Maybe transmission problems, since it has 148k miles? I just recently changed the fluid (Honda brand) and the fluid level is ok.
Cars are aligned off the rear wheels. If, for example, a spindle was bent, a 4 wheel alignment would be necessary to determine it by doing a "caster sweep". Sometimes, fwd cars can't get enough positive camber so there is sometimes camber kits available to improve it. Not sure what's going on with your accord exactly, but either there could be something like a spindle slightly bent or maybe there was alignment equipment problems. The laser wheel aligners do get out of adjustment, but some shops don't like to spend the few hundred bucks to get them back into spec. Most inde. rear suspension vehicles have camber and toe adjustments, yours should too. It doesn't take much, a car that is 1 degree off alignment, such as too much positive toe on one wheel, is the rough equivalent of dragging the wheel 150 feet for every mile. When you do alignments, ALWAYS do a 4 wheel, or you are cheating yourself, and not getting proper adjustments, since cars are aligned off the "rear" wheels. Good luck.
It's possible that it could be a tranny problem, but I'd inspect all of the cheaper, simpler maintenance items. Sometimes a trans might not shift too smoothly down the highway or act funny, but it could be a bad plug or plug wire. So a cheap part acts like a more expensive item. I'd check plugs, plug wire resistance, things like that. When was the fuel filter changed? BUT, let's wait for auburn63, he might have some knowledge on this specific year maybe having a problem. Always start with the simple stuff first.
90-93 accords develope a shudder and most commonly it is due to the manifold(intake)having clogged EGR ports.They can be cleaned out on the car however typicaly this shudder happens on slight accel or cruising and acceling around 1800rpm.Easiest way to diagnose is to pull the EGR vacuum hose off and road test it.Trans could be another possibility but try the EGR hose first.Also you will want to pull the spark plug wires and see if there is oil on them as this could be happening also.Let us know how you make out.
Like copytech has said there is such a thing as a 4 wheel and alignment and it is the recomended way of doing one.Honda's however only have a toe adjustment on the rear and a caster and toe on the front.Aftermarket kits and other tricks are available if suspension damage has been done but usally not needed. I doubt that it is a tire problem so have an alignment done at some point and see what they say.
As usual, the input from this forum has been very informative. I appreciate the info provided and I now am much more knowledgeable about this. I feel I have a very good service dept. I deal with, but confirmation of their opinions make me tingly all over. LOL.
PRECONDITION: The car engine has attained normal running temperature and idle speed.
SYMPTOM: When waiting at a stop sign with the car in D (drive) mode and brakes fully pressed and the air-conditioner has been switched on. In this situation, when the air-conditioner compressor engages, I feel a jerk in the cabin. The magnitude of the jerk somewhat like the car going over a small hole. The air-conditioner cools and heats the cabin very nicely but this behavior is very annoying and at such times would like to throw the whole air-conditioner into a junkyard. If I shift the car into P mode, it still shows the same behavior.
anybody knows what to do. I have only 21,000 miles on my 99 accord.
Hi all, I have a small question(I hope). I just bought a 92 Accord LX. The auto transmission died on the guy I bought it from and he had the transmission replaced with a 93 auto transmission. That was about a year ago. Now the "D" light on the dash panel blinks most of the time while I'm driving(sometimes it quits). Also the car shudders a good bit while in reverse (sometimes worse than others).
Hi all, I have a small question(I hope). I just bought a 92 Accord LX. The auto transmission died on the guy I bought it from and he had the transmission replaced with a 93 auto transmission. That was about a year ago. Now the "D" light on the dash panel blinks most of the time while I'm driving(sometimes it quits). Also the car shudders a good bit while in reverse (sometimes worse than others).
1990 Honda Accord. The key won't turn off the engine (especially in cold weather). You may wait 3 minutes before the key will click off, the engine will turn off, and the key will be allowed to disengage from the tumbler. In addition, the gear box locks itself in Park. I replaced the ignition system assembly lock device, thinking that might solve the problem. It hasn't. No mechanic has been able to fix the ignition.
There is nothing else wrong with the car, it runs great, but my wife is getting impatient. Does anyone have a suggestion? Can somebody save my Honda from the graveyard? Mark
You might check the accessory belt tension. It's possible that there is a electromagnet problem within the clutch, but the acc belt tension could be way too tight.
You might have worn engine mounts, and that will especially show up in reverse. You might have someone get in the car with the brake on and while they throttle it a little in drive and in reverse, watch the engine move abnormally. I'm not sure if that the dash tranny lights come from a console switch or the mlps, but if it's from the mlps, the excess engine movement might have caused a frayed wire going to the dash.
You said that you replaced the ignition interlock, not the actual ignition switch, right? The shift lock solenoid could be giving you problems getting it out of park, due to maybe a poor brake switch not always sending a proper signal out. Have you used a graphite lube in the tumbler assembly? If not, give that a shot.
Thanks for those ideas. I'll check the engine mounts. I forgot to say that the blinking "D" on my dash panel is in sequence. It doesn't seem to be a broken wire problem because the blinking is a timed blink. Like your blinking cursor.
About that shudder problem Silvercoup was facing. One of my friends 1995 Accord EX just experienced that. It happened while going at a very slow speed while driving in traffic. The mileage isnt very high, maybe close to 70000 miles.
This problem very recently appeared. I think its happened twice in the last 2-3 weeks. It goes away quickly.
Could it still be a transmission problem?
The worst thing is...I bought an Accord also...partly based on his experiences and partly on my owning a 86!
Well while it could be a trans problem you do need to rule out ignition and other easier problems first.We are starting to see some of the 94-97 Accords comming in with the same EGR problem that the 90-93 Accords had.To check if thats what is wrong with your friends you will have to first werify his problem then pull off the Egr vacuum hose and see if it goes away.Best time to test is when warm, then usally you can power brake(in gear,left foot on brake right foot on gas) it at a slow accel through 2000 rpm's. If it is the EGR it will studder in and around the 1800rpm point if you do it right.If you go to fast with gas pedal the EGR will not open.Try that out and see what happens..Good luck
I have been told there is a filter for outside air somewhere on the vehicle. Can someone enlighten me on this? I bought the car from a smoker who told me that replacing the filter would give a good result.
I removed the hose to the EGR valve and the shudder appeared to go away. Can I clean the EGR ports, or do I need to take it to the dealer?
Warning to those who try this test: your "check engine" light will come on. Not to worry, once the hose is reconnected and the car restarted the light will go off (at least mine did).
OOOPS sorry I should have mentioned that check engine light thing.The light will go off on anything under 1998 a code remains on the computer memory for like 50 starts or so but it doesn't affect anything at all. Anyhow yes it can be cleaned out but depending on how much you can do. You have to take the injector rail out of your way and then the plate under it covers the EGR passage ways.Let me know if you plan on doing it and maybe I can give you better instructions.
Bought 2000 V6 11 months ago, the car has 11,000 miles now. It runs very well except some rattles inside dashboard and steering column.
Changed the oil again 3 days ago, and suddenly noticed the oil leakage on the bottom of the transmission housing. It looks like that the whole transmission housing is consisted by two half housing tired up by some bolts(left and right housings if look from front of the vehicle).
It leaks slowly along the bottom gap between two half housings(dark red fluid).
I'm going to setup an appointment with Honda service, meantime I just can't help but worry a little. Auburn63 and anyone who can help, what is the usual cause for this? and how difficult is it for fixing?
Chikoo, There is no known problems for your complaint. The only thing I can even think of is either it is normal or that maybe the A/C is overcharged. I doubt that it would be bearings at this point unless you have been in deep water.If the dealer says that it is normal have them show you on another car. If they say it is not but don't know how to fix then try another dealer.An overcharged A/C will put to much of a drain on the idle circuit and cause a big bump in the car at initial A/C start up.Good luck
Gye, Once again no one known problem in my area with trans leaks, however we have had a few leak from two differant solenoids.So maybe it is as easy as that.We also have had the front seal on the trans leak with 2 others which required the removal of the trans. Once again not a bad job but not an easy one. Good luck
Ok, I need advice besides "contact your dealer" please. Black paint on the 2000EX IS thin. scratches all over show primer..has 5000 miles on it and has been lookin bad since day one. Wouldn't ya think there'd be more then 1 coat of paint on the car? Honda says "its black-shows everything". I've owned many black cars and never has a scratch shown primer. How many coats of paint does Honda put on their cars anyway? Whats the best recourse here? HELP
If you've got multiple scratches through to the primer, the best recourse is to stop parking the car where it can be so obviously abused, and/or learn how to properly wash and wax it to provide some protection. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the technology or the results that Honda is using on these cars; complaints about paint quality are all over the Toyota, Mercedes, BMW, and Nissan boards [never mind the domestic brands], mainly because all water-based paints are more brittle and chip more easily than the old oil-based formula that is no longer used for environmental reasons. But deep scratches? Somebody is abusing this car - if it's not you, you need to keep it away from whomever is doing it.
Best recourse: get it detailed and touched-up by somebody who knows what they are doing. And avoid black like the plague, unless you have endless amounts of time to keep it looking good. The only way to scratch this car down to the primer is to deliberately set out to abuse the paint - it's just a lot easier to do with black than any other color.
I know what you mean about Honda paint, it is some of the worst I've ever seen. It is thin, which means it scratches easily and gets stained by acid rain. Come and visit my forum "Accord Paint Problems" at http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=Smart_Shopper&t=2212. You might get some more help here from some of the previous posts.
This is a followup to posts 335 and 336 above. Auburn36 - thanks so much for your response, any more thoughts?
My Accord is about a year old and lately when I am releasing the clutch and accelerating after shifting into 2nd and 3rd gear, I hear a 'screeching' noise coming from the engine. It's an interittent problem, seems more common when the car is cold and only effects 2nd and 3rd.
My dealer couldn't find anything wrong and I've had trouble duplicating the noise with a mechanic in the car. The noise isn't related to the movement of the clutch itself (ie clutch plate needing lubrication or something). Rather it comes from the engine just as the clutch comes all the way up and as the RPM's start rising again. Sounds almost like a belt is slipping or something?
Any suggestions for what my dealer should be checking would be greatly appreciated.
I will get the dealer to check out the A/c charge. By the way, this problem is more evident when the car is really hot, meaning i have driven the car about half hour or more.
I have a 1992 Accord and have had the automatic transmission fluid changed at the dealership. I have always done normal oil changes myself and want to do the AT fluid also. I have the Chiltons manual and it does not say anything about an AT fluid "filter" that needs to be changed. Does my car have a filter or do I just drain the old AT fluid and replace with new? Any input is greatly appreciated!
Hi all. I own a 93 Accord EX sedan, which I continue to love more every day. But I am thinking of replacing the factory tape/radio unit with a cd/radio unit with a unit from Crutchfield. Does anyone know how difficult/easy it easy to replace the unit? Thanks so much in advance.
silveraccord, I think I have heard what you are talking about and the ones that I had were cured by the replacement of the clutch eventually.What I mean by that, is that I had advised the customer to wait until they needed a clutch before attempting to diagnose the noise and when they came back in at clutch time the noise had gotten worse and we found that the clutch disc springs were the source.
tinindiana, The trans is just a drain and fill trans. The filter is internal and doesn't get changed except at time of rebuild.To get the drain plug out use a 3/4 inch drive ratchet head and once out remember to change the crush washer that is on it and clean the magnet tip.
Just do a drain and fill. Most screens usually do not need to be changed that often. A d/f trans will either have a serviceable screen or no external serviceable screen. Remember that after a drain and fill and after you drain it out, refill it some (estimate roughly the amount drained), start the car and go through the gears, about 15 to 30 seconds per gear, then fill it up to the level needed. Then drive the car and get it into overdrive. Fwd cars have the tendency to sometimes "hide" a little fluid, so after the drive, check it out and see where it is. As stated by the honda man auburn63, don't forget the washer. Auburn, have any hondas changed or are they all still "check with the engine off" for a/t? Also, do you use 10/30 synth oil in 1996 and newer manuals or do you use the "factory manual tranny fluid" which seems to me is probably 10/30 synth anyway.
Greetings to all Honda owners. I recently purchesed a 1997 Accord LX with the 2.2 liter motor. The car runs very well and I am pleased with the purchase. There is one item I find rather annoying however. While the car is going uphill or begins to lug the engine at around the 1800-2400 rpm range I am hearing the exhaust/muffler drone. It isn't too bad but yet I feel the noise really should not be there at all. I've taken it to the dealer and two mechanics said that the droning sound is normal and something not to be concerned about. Both said there is a replacement exhaust kit that essentially replaces a small pipe (something one of the mechanics said was an A pipe?).
Any thoughts or feedback from anyone who has encountered this problem themselves?
Does anyone know what the "cylinder head cross over pipe" is? During the last oil change, mechanic replaced gaskets for this. They told me that they had to open up the engine to do that. Let me know.
copytech, All Honda's are still checked with engine off. In the 97 and above manual trans cars it is best to use the Honda MTF.98's and higher will make a strange noises and accel the wear of the trans if it is not used.I know Honda has it's own additives that they put into their fluids so I wouldn't think they would be the same.
scimitar15, What you need is what we call a buzz kit. It comes with new cone gaskets,nuts,springs and bolts that go onto the intermidiate pipe just after the "A"pipe and just before the cat.I think the cost for the part kit is about 90.00 but not for sure and yes it will cure your problem for a while but will probably return down the road a few years.We also apply never sieze onto the pipe surface and the cone gaskets to help make the noise stay away longer.
Terminalis, Welcome back, the part they are speaking off has recently been known to leak(seap)coolant out of the front side down the trans and block.It is called the EGR manifold becauses it houses the EGR and it crosses over from one head to the other.Not that big of a deal to replace and not much needs to come apart to gain acces.So all should be fine it wasn't like a major repair.Hopefully all else has been fine and you have been able to enjoy it a bit, see ya, John
Thanks for the info. Sorry to ask if this has been answered before by you but do you work for a dealer or for a honda inde specialist. There is a great inde honda/acura specialist in San Luis Obispo, CA that helps out a lot of students to help them diagnose problems. The dealer usually wants a min. 1/2 hr for services. In a college town, students appreciate any help they can get. For that type of treatment, they are very busy, but from what I hear also very good too. Auburn63, your info is always appreciated on this forum. Also, do honda's have a "REAL" reason why their engines turn counter-clockwise (balance, smoothness) or do they just want to be different?
Hi Guys, I have 90 Accord LX 5spd with 166K on it. Its going very good but lately it has developed the same very annoying problem at start up that plages many Accords.
When the weather is cold (<60 F) it would start absolutly O.K. But when the temp. rises and I take short trips, it won't start for around 3 Min. on the next start. Then it would start O.K. I took it local honda dealer but unfortunately that day weather was cold and they could not duplicate the problem, after keeping the car for a whole day.
I recall this problem was discussed in detail a while back and auburn suggested unhooking TW sensor or water temp sensor wires etc. I have tried that all but it does not seem to be working with my car. Any suggestions!! before I again take it to another dealer whom I talked and seemed more knowledgable and informed about this specific problem than the first one. Thanks
Just got my 2000 ex accord i4 two weeks ago with only 460 km on it. I am little be concering about the break-in period said in the manual. It says "avoid full throttle during break-in period; does it mean I can't drive on highway but local? Any insight from you will be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance!
good to hear from you again and thanks for your comment. yes, i've been enjoying my car lately. everything has been fixed and the car is running good now. i started liking the car a lot, especially the suspension and handling. thanks again.
genova,
i'm not an expert on cars, but i do know that there is no problem taking your car on highway during break-in period. however, i think it's not recommended that you keep the same speed for long time while cruising on highway. and also, i was told that it's not a good idea to pass over 60-70 mph. good luck.
ANY HELP OR THOUGHTS WOULD BE APPRECIATED. I HAVE A 98 EXVL. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT KEEPS COMING ON. AT TIMES THE CAR IDLES VERY ROUGH, EVEN TO A POINT WHERE IT FEELS IT WILL STALL (~650 TO 500 RPM). THE DEALER CLEANED THE EGR VALVE AFTER THE 2ND TIME, BUT IT HAS COME ON 2 MORE TIMES SINCE (CAME ON THEN WENT OFF A DAY LATER BUT HAS SINCE COME BACK ON). THE CAR DID PASS EMISSIONS DURING THIS PERIOD. I'M TAKING IT BACK IN THURSDAY FOR THE 3RD TIME FOR THE DEALER TO LOOK AT IT. ANYONE ELSE HAVING THIS PROBLEM?
copytech, Never paid it too much attention however I think it is because Honda engines sit on the driverside with trans on passenger side vs others sit the other way.If you took the engine and trans assembly and flipped it to the other side like most frd cars then it too would be going clockwise.I am almost sure but not positive that that was what I was told years ago, but like I said I haven't thought about it much being that it is the only car line I work on.Oh yeah by the way I work at a dealer for what seems like forever..
I recently purchased a 96 Isuzu Oasis. This has the Accords 2.2 liter 4 cyl. engine and is a clone of the Honda Odyssey. When I bought the car I thought I did all of the right things. I looked at the spark plugs, and they were a very light tan which is normal. I checked the exhaust under full throttle while driving up hill (I was in another car behind) and there was no sign of blue smoke - there was some white condensation because it was a cold day, but I could not see any blueish smoke.
I changed the oil when I got the car home because I am fanatic about oil changes. Now 200 miles later I had to add a quart of oil. I checked both times on level ground and the engine had not been run for at least an hour both times. The engine does not seem to be burning the oil - the plugs are not fouled. I put a newspaper under the car overnight, and it did not leak a single drop. So where is the oil going. I also changed the air filter, and there was no sign of oil on the filter. I did finally check the exhaust pipe and the inside was actually oily instead of being sooty.
If I was burning 5 quarts of oil per thousand miles (1 quart for 200 miles) wouldn't the emissions sensors detect a problem? Wouldn't the car be smoking like cheech and chong? Wouldn't there be a huge loss of power.
When I changed the oil I did notice that the engine had some sludge/deposits (looking through the add oil cap) so I added some Risolene, drove the car for a day, and changed the oil a second time. The deposits did not look nearly as bad. I took the car to two mechanics the next day and had them look at the sludge/deposits (don't know what to call it) and they both said that probly the oil wasn't changed as often as it should have been, but that it really didn't look too bad and I shouldnt worry.
This engine is under warranty still (Isuzu had a 5 year 60,000 mile powertrain warranty) but I am scared to death that the dealer will say the engine was abused and not fix it under warranty. After all I have no receipts to show that the oil was changed.
Is there possibly a simple (read cheap) explanation for this? Am I gonna get screwed by the dealer - does the customer get the benifit of the doubt or does the smallest sign of sludge mean all bets are off? Will I need a new engine? This is driving me crazy.
One thing I did do. I took the car to the Isuzu dealer before I bought it and asked them to look it over and see if everything looked OK. They said it looked fine. I also asked if there was any reason it wouldn't be covered under warrenty if anything happened, and they said no, but I got none of this in writing and feel amnesia may set in when/if the time comes. I would not have bought the car if it was not covered under warranty that is why I took it to the dealer.
Other than this problem I love the car, but I guess that is like Mrs. Lincoln saying she liked the play.
Auburn63 or others please offer any insights. Thanks very much, and sorry the post is so long.
Dudley
PS. The engine seems to drive fine and has plenty of pick up (drove along at the speed limit of 75 into a stong headwind and the car was loafing), though it does sound a little deisel like esp. when cold (wouldn't that just be the valves though).
I believe those valves are adjustable like on the civic's. They should have been adjusted at 30k. That kind of oil consumption ought to look like an older dodge caravan doing the c and c down the road. I am wondering if they threw in some 20w 50 to hide the oil burning. It's putting it somewhere, so most likely it's burning some of it (possibly a rear main seal leak too, but you should see a little leaking somewhere). Auburn, you might chime in on this one. That is way too much oil for any car. Done a compression check yet? What is it with all of these engines having sludge? (other forums too--dodge---) Man, does anyone do any maintenance on their cars? That's what sucks on a used car, you never really know unless they have every receipt. I'd say it's burning it, but that amount should be horrible blowby on the plugs. Just a guess.
Comments
Of course, wife could have whacked curb or something since there are some pretty bad scuff marks on the wheel cover, but I would think both right tires would show same problem since they are rotated every 5k.
Any thoughts anybody? Does this car really have alignment adjustments for all 4 wheels? Is a 4 wheel alignment really necessary considering only 1 tire has problem. Could the tire itself be faulty?
I just recently changed the fluid (Honda brand) and the fluid level is ok.
THANKS AGAIN
The car engine has attained normal running temperature and idle speed.
SYMPTOM:
When waiting at a stop sign with the car in D (drive) mode and brakes fully pressed and the air-conditioner has been switched on. In this situation, when the air-conditioner compressor engages, I feel a jerk in the cabin. The magnitude of the jerk somewhat like the car going over a small hole. The air-conditioner cools and heats the cabin very nicely but this behavior is very annoying and at such times would like to throw the whole air-conditioner into a junkyard. If I shift the car into P mode, it still shows the same behavior.
anybody knows what to do.
I have only 21,000 miles on my 99 accord.
I have a small question(I hope). I just bought a 92 Accord LX. The auto transmission died on the guy I bought it from and he had the transmission replaced with a 93 auto transmission. That was about a year ago. Now the "D" light on the dash panel blinks most of the time while I'm driving(sometimes it quits). Also the car shudders a good bit while in reverse (sometimes worse than others).
Thanks for any help,
Russ
I have a small question(I hope). I just bought a 92 Accord LX. The auto transmission died on the guy I bought it from and he had the transmission replaced with a 93 auto transmission. That was about a year ago. Now the "D" light on the dash panel blinks most of the time while I'm driving(sometimes it quits). Also the car shudders a good bit while in reverse (sometimes worse than others).
Thanks for any help,
Russ
There is nothing else wrong with the car, it runs great, but my wife is getting impatient. Does anyone have a suggestion? Can somebody save my Honda from the graveyard? Mark
Russ
About that shudder problem Silvercoup was facing. One of my friends 1995 Accord EX just experienced that. It happened while going at a very slow speed while driving in traffic. The mileage isnt very high, maybe close to 70000 miles.
This problem very recently appeared. I think its happened twice in the last 2-3 weeks. It goes away quickly.
Could it still be a transmission problem?
The worst thing is...I bought an Accord also...partly based on his experiences and partly on my owning a 86!
Thanks
Warning to those who try this test: your "check engine" light will come on. Not to worry, once the hose is reconnected and the car restarted the light will go off (at least mine did).
Anyhow yes it can be cleaned out but depending on how much you can do. You have to take the injector rail out of your way and then the plate under it covers the EGR passage ways.Let me know if you plan on doing it and maybe I can give you better instructions.
could it be due to bad bearing in compressor?
Changed the oil again 3 days ago, and suddenly noticed the oil leakage on the bottom of the transmission housing. It looks like that the whole transmission housing is consisted by two half housing tired up by some bolts(left and right housings if look from front of the vehicle).
It leaks slowly along the bottom gap between two half housings(dark red fluid).
I'm going to setup an appointment with Honda service, meantime I just can't help but worry a little. Auburn63 and anyone who can help, what is the usual cause for this? and how difficult is it for fixing?
Thanks.
There is no known problems for your complaint. The only thing I can even think of is either it is normal or that maybe the A/C is overcharged. I doubt that it would be bearings at this point unless you have been in deep water.If the dealer says that it is normal have them show you on another car. If they say it is not but don't know how to fix then try another dealer.An overcharged A/C will put to much of a drain on the idle circuit and cause a big bump in the car at initial A/C start up.Good luck
Gye,
Once again no one known problem in my area with trans leaks, however we have had a few leak from two differant solenoids.So maybe it is as easy as that.We also have had the front seal on the trans leak with 2 others which required the removal of the trans. Once again not a bad job but not an easy one. Good luck
Best recourse: get it detailed and touched-up by somebody who knows what they are doing. And avoid black like the plague, unless you have endless amounts of time to keep it looking good. The only way to scratch this car down to the primer is to deliberately set out to abuse the paint - it's just a lot easier to do with black than any other color.
- Anthony
adg44@earthlink.net
This is a followup to posts 335 and 336 above. Auburn36 - thanks so much for your response, any more thoughts?
My Accord is about a year old and lately when I am releasing the clutch and accelerating after shifting into 2nd and 3rd gear, I hear a 'screeching' noise coming from the engine. It's an interittent problem, seems more common when the car is cold and only effects 2nd and 3rd.
My dealer couldn't find anything wrong and I've had trouble duplicating the noise with a mechanic in the car. The noise isn't related to the movement of the clutch itself (ie clutch plate needing lubrication or something). Rather it comes from the engine just as the clutch comes all the way up and as the RPM's start rising again. Sounds almost like a belt is slipping or something?
Any suggestions for what my dealer should be checking would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
By the way, this problem is more evident when the car is really hot, meaning i have driven the car about half hour or more.
I think I have heard what you are talking about and the ones that I had were cured by the replacement of the clutch eventually.What I mean by that, is that I had advised the customer to wait until they needed a clutch before attempting to diagnose the noise and when they came back in at clutch time the noise had gotten worse and we found that the clutch disc springs were the source.
tinindiana,
The trans is just a drain and fill trans. The filter is internal and doesn't get changed except at time of rebuild.To get the drain plug out use a 3/4 inch drive ratchet head and once out remember to change the crush washer that is on it and clean the magnet tip.
Any thoughts or feedback from anyone who has encountered this problem themselves?
Many thanks.
I've been away for a while. Glad to be back.
Does anyone know what the "cylinder head cross over pipe" is? During the last oil change, mechanic replaced gaskets for this. They told me that they had to open up the engine to do that. Let me know.
All Honda's are still checked with engine off.
In the 97 and above manual trans cars it is best to use the Honda MTF.98's and higher will make a strange noises and accel the wear of the trans if it is not used.I know Honda has it's own additives that they put into their fluids so I wouldn't think they would be the same.
scimitar15,
What you need is what we call a buzz kit. It comes with new cone gaskets,nuts,springs and bolts that go onto the intermidiate pipe just after the "A"pipe and just before the cat.I think the cost for the part kit is about 90.00 but not for sure and yes it will cure your problem for a while but will probably return down the road a few years.We also apply never sieze onto the pipe surface and the cone gaskets to help make the noise stay away longer.
Terminalis,
Welcome back, the part they are speaking off has recently been known to leak(seap)coolant out of the front side down the trans and block.It is called the EGR manifold becauses it houses the EGR and it crosses over from one head to the other.Not that big of a deal to replace and not much needs to come apart to gain acces.So all should be fine it wasn't like a major repair.Hopefully all else has been fine and you have been able to enjoy it a bit, see ya, John
I have 90 Accord LX 5spd with 166K on it. Its going very good but lately it has developed the same very annoying problem at start up that plages many Accords.
When the weather is cold (<60 F) it would start absolutly O.K. But when the temp. rises and I take short trips, it won't start for around 3 Min. on the next start. Then it would start O.K. I took it local honda dealer but unfortunately that day weather was cold and they could not duplicate the problem, after keeping the car for a whole day.
I recall this problem was discussed in detail a while back and auburn suggested unhooking TW sensor or water temp sensor wires etc. I have tried that all but it does not seem to be working with my car. Any suggestions!! before I again take it to another dealer whom I talked and seemed more knowledgable and informed about this specific problem than the first one. Thanks
Any insight from you will be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance!
good to hear from you again and thanks for your comment. yes, i've been enjoying my car lately. everything has been fixed and the car is running good now. i started liking the car a lot, especially the suspension and handling. thanks again.
genova,
i'm not an expert on cars, but i do know that there is no problem taking your car on highway during break-in period. however, i think it's not recommended that you keep the same speed for long time while cruising on highway. and also, i was told that it's not a good idea to pass over 60-70 mph. good luck.
Never paid it too much attention however I think it is because Honda engines sit on the driverside with trans on passenger side vs others sit the other way.If you took the engine and trans assembly and flipped it to the other side like most frd cars then it too would be going clockwise.I am almost sure but not positive that that was what I was told years ago, but like I said I haven't thought about it much being that it is the only car line I work on.Oh yeah by the way I work at a dealer for what seems like forever..
If it is not the TW sensor then it is probably the main fuel relay. They have a tendency to act up when they get warm.
genova,
As terminalis has said it will be fine just don't keep it at steady speeds for too long of a time.
purina1_us,
Do you know what the code was? If not try and find out it would possibly help us out..Thanks.
I changed the oil when I got the car home because I am fanatic about oil changes. Now 200 miles later I had to add a quart of oil. I checked both times on level ground and the engine had not been run for at least an hour both times. The engine does not seem to be burning the oil - the plugs are not fouled. I put a newspaper under the car overnight, and it did not leak a single drop. So where is the oil going. I also changed the air filter, and there was no sign of oil on the filter. I did finally check the exhaust pipe and the inside was actually oily instead of being sooty.
If I was burning 5 quarts of oil per thousand miles (1 quart for 200 miles) wouldn't the emissions sensors detect a problem? Wouldn't the car be smoking like cheech and chong? Wouldn't there be a huge loss of power.
When I changed the oil I did notice that the engine had some sludge/deposits (looking through the add oil cap) so I added some Risolene, drove the car for a day, and changed the oil a second time. The deposits did not look nearly as bad. I took the car to two mechanics the next day and had them look at the sludge/deposits (don't know what to call it) and they both said that probly the oil wasn't changed as often as it should have been, but that it really didn't look too bad and I shouldnt worry.
This engine is under warranty still (Isuzu had a 5 year 60,000 mile powertrain warranty) but I am scared to death that the dealer will say the engine was abused and not fix it under warranty. After all I have no receipts to show that the oil was changed.
Is there possibly a simple (read cheap) explanation for this? Am I gonna get screwed by the dealer - does the customer get the benifit of the doubt or does the smallest sign of sludge mean all bets are off? Will I need a new engine? This is driving me crazy.
One thing I did do. I took the car to the Isuzu dealer before I bought it and asked them to look it over and see if everything looked OK. They said it looked fine. I also asked if there was any reason it wouldn't be covered under warrenty if anything happened, and they said no, but I got none of this in writing and feel amnesia may set in when/if the time comes. I would not have bought the car if it was not covered under warranty that is why I took it to the dealer.
Other than this problem I love the car, but I guess that is like Mrs. Lincoln saying she liked the play.
Auburn63 or others please offer any insights. Thanks very much, and sorry the post is so long.
Dudley
PS. The engine seems to drive fine and has plenty of pick up (drove along at the speed limit of 75 into a stong headwind and the car was loafing), though it does sound a little deisel like esp. when cold (wouldn't that just be the valves though).
Bruce