Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

kareshi · November 2003

For the brake "problem" that many of you have mentioned, do you really have to replace it when it squeak? becuz mine squeak too but the brake still works well. of cuz it isn't as sensitive as new but i can still feel it works well. so i am wondering.. mine is 03 EX I4. 14000KM now and squeak happened around 9000 i think

snuke59 · November 2003

For the past 15 yrs., I have used a repair shop that only repairs Hondas. It will soon be time for a 30,000 mile service for my 2000 Accord V6. My shop has a maintenance schedule lists that basically coincides with that of the Honda's Owner's Manual. However, it differs from the manual when it comes to changing the coolant. The Owner's Manual recommends that it is done at 45,000, but my shop suggest 30,000 miles. I had planned to purchase the coolant that is sold at the Honda Dealer for my shop to use. However, when I called to price the coolant, the service manager told me that Honda's coolant is one of the best and that it does not need replacing until the recommended 45,000 miles. Therefore, I have 2-questions.

1) Should I follow the Owner's Manual or my shop? and

2) What are your feelings about using only the fluids that are now sold at the Honda Dealer with the Honda name attached. i,e, oil, coolant etc.?

auburn63 · November 2003

I really believe in and use on my Hondas only Honda products and have had good luck with both my Accords, both 92's, 1 with 299,000 and the 2nd 90,000 miles.. The Honda coolant will be in like new shape when you drain it at 45,000 so draining it at 30k will be too soon. As for following a schedule, follow which one you like best, The Honda one will be just fine for the needs of the car for the most part. The only changes to it I make is with the oil. I change it every 3k, over kill but I feel better doing it. Good luck

chucko3 · November 2003

1. I followed the Owner's manual for my 89 Accord.
First at 47900 miles and every 2 years/12k miles thereafter.
2. First coolant service was at Honda dealer.
The other times were at local shop using Prestone.
I do check the strength of the coolant every year before the winter arrives.
The car still runs great.
For the oil, I see no differences in using Honda name or not. However, I do use the viscosity oil recommended by Honda for my Accord for the last 15 years.
Good luck.

bodble2 · November 2003

Have you checked the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir? I don't think it is too unusual for pedal travel to increase as your pads gets worn out. Now, if you press on the brake pedal and it slowly sinks to the floor, then you definitely have a problem.

according2me · November 2003

I believe the coolant used in the newer model Accords says 100K normal/60K severe for the initial change. 30K severe changeout recommended thereafter. I replaced mine at 85K and it still looked fresh. Tough stuff, but very expensive ($12-$14/premixed jug) at the dealer parts counter.

jeffrey15 · November 2003

The brakes still work fine, it just takes noticably more pedal travel before they kick in.

Jeff

snuke59 · November 2003

Thanks Auburn63 and others for your quick and welcomed response regarding the mileage to change the coolant and which products to use. Being an unmarried, female, I welcome any help that I can receive.

gregoryc1 · November 2003

If you want a "sweet running engine" for a LONG TIME, change your oil and filter EVERY 3,000 miles. Engine oil cools, cleans, lubricates and seals. Dirty oil cannot perform these jobs properly.------- You are going to hear other opinions on this board dealing with oil and filter changes. Everyone has an opinion on the subject.------ Frequent oil and filter changes boils down to cheap maintenance. It is easier to unscrew an oil drain plug every 3,000 miles, than repair or replace an engine.----- I have a 2003 Honda Accord purchased in Feb 2003 with 16,000+ miles on the clock. It has received 3,000 mile oil and filter changes since it was new. Our second car is a 2000 Honda Civic that is just coming off lease. It has 27,000 miles. It has received 3,000 mile oil and filter changes since it was new. In the next few day we will be picking up a 2004 Honda Civic EX. This vehicle will also get 3,000 mile oil and filter changes. -----The decision with regards to the timing of oil and filter changes is yours. I also let the selling Honda dealer perform all the maintenance, so that all the records are in one place should a warranty issue arise. If you change the oil and filter too frequently, ----what are you losing? ----A few dollars! ----But if you change too late, it could cost you an engine, and if it is a lease vehicle YOU are responsible for all the wear on the vehicle. -----Just my opinion.

mdas · November 2003

I just saw the check engine light come on my 2000 Accord EX V6. I made sure the fuel cap is tight with a few clicks. I still have to put some fuel system cleaner and make sure it is clean. Has anyone else experienced this problem for the 00 Accord, if so are there any provisions in the extended warranty so I dont have to pay anything. I remember Honda sent out a letter to me, it was something to do with the emissions warranty. Please help, thanks in advance.

tblazer503 · November 2003

While it probably isn't a huge deal, it could be significant. Personally, I would have them inspected. If you don't have enough confidence in your honda dealers, you can take it to a Meinekie or whatever, just keep an eye out and watch what they do.

Anyway... you shouldn't see a huge difference in the brake pedal travel unless one of two things are happening(in general)....

1>leak in the vacuum assist booster. If there is a leak in the vacuum, you should notice it because you won't have as much braking power along the travel. Most likely not the case.

2> The caliper slide may be sticking. this 'adjusts' the caliper so that braking pressure is being applied to both sides of the rotor. If it is sticking a bit, you may be applying more pressure to one side than the other, and will wear out the rotor faster. The pedal will travel a little more because the piston may(or may not) have to apply more pressure to apply the brake.

OF course, if there is no problem, then don't worry about it, but they should inspect it for free.

sockpuppet1969 · November 2003

Changing your oil every 3k miles is definately overkill if you are only leasing or trading every 3-4 years. If it is going to make any difference at all it won't be apparent until much further down the road.

lelandhendrix · November 2003

If you feel better doing it at 3000, then the peace of mind is worth it.

Oil gets dirty from engine inefficiency. Honda is respected by everybody in the automotive industry as making some of the finest engines, and their newest engines are very efficient and therefore dirty their oil much less and need fewer oil changes.

atlantabenny · November 2003

No. 1 reason for changing oil: contamination by the byproducts of combustion, mainly unburned fuel due to inefficient ignition or rich fuel/air mixture or both.

Why every 3k miles: engine has a contact point & condenser ignition system and a carburettor (cars up to the 1970s).

Why every 7k or so miles: engine has electronic ignition and fuel injection system managed by a computer (as with all cars today).

dust90 · November 2003

Right On, Benny

snuke59 · November 2003

Mdas...I am a female and don't know much about cars. However, about 2-months ago, my 2000 Accord V6 began making a strange noise and I think my engine light came on but I am not really sure. Anyway, I found out my alternator went out and I had less than 30,000 miles on my car. So, it could be your alternator, too.

mikefm58 · November 2003

For those of us that use synthetic oil, do you folks feel that the interval can be longer with synthetic versus fossil oil?

atlantabenny · November 2003

dust90: thanks

mikefm58: There appears to be enough empirical evidence supporting longer drain interval using synth oil with no more engine wear than fossil oil at shorter intervals.

Reasons include, among others, lower volatility (that reduces "coking" and other deposit formation), and better molecular uniformity (for better lubricity) that are inherent in synthetic lubes.

Because synth oil is more expensive, however, one runs a maintenance tab about $2,000 higher over 200k miles of ownership.

Would I use synth oil on a car I'll own for only 75k miles ? Maybe not. For 200k miles ? Maybe, considering that an engine replacement / rebuild would cost upward of $2500.

gregoryc1 · November 2003

I have a GREAT idea. Do not ever change the engine oil and filter. Just add oil as necessary. Lets see how long the engine will last. When the engine destroys itself because of clogged oil lines and sludge, just replace the engine, and start the process all over again. You could save a lot of time and money on preventive maintenance. ----Just a suggestion. -----Greg

dalaw · November 2003

I thought changing oil before the 5000 mile mark on a new Honda voids the warranty. Isn't there a special break-in oil that should not be replaced until at least 5000 miles?

justin · November 2003

based on my service dept and people here, i am going to wait until 5k miles to do the first oil change. Honda still says wait until 7500, but i don't think i can do that! doesn't seem natural! my old BMW didn't get an oil change except for every 15k miles, and it just about killed me! i like to change often, but i guess i need to be broken of that habit in this century.

pj23 · November 2003

I am sorry, but I don't understand your post. You've often provided us your opinion about oil changes and additives. Those who are inclined to, can follow your recommendation. That is their (and your) prerogative.

Others have reasoned that with today's engines and technology, it just might be possible to follow the manufacturer's recommended maintenace schedule and have a car that runs smoothly and is trouble-free in operation.

I can only guess that, because your post about never changing oil and just adding to what is there, came after other posts suggesting it might be possible to wait 7,000 miles between changes (which closely coincides with the interval suggested by Honda for many of its cars), that you were posting in response to those suggesting a longer interval might be appropriate. So tell us, how in your opinion does following the manufacturer's recommendation on oil change intervals imperil our engines?

aggie1995 · November 2003

I just went in today to get my first oil change at 2850 miles because I bought my car a little over 5 months ago. I figured even though my mileage isn't very high the time that the oil is in the engine would have been enough to warrant an oil change.

My service tech told me to come back around Christmas or when my mileage hits at least 3750 because of the break-in oil that Honda uses.

Go figure.

bodble2 · November 2003

I think this "break-in" oil issue is something that Honda has really really emphasized with its dealers cuz no dealer I know would turn down business!

morphius909 · November 2003

This "Oil Change" fiasco has gone on too long. I remember when I posted on the Chev Impala one, the Oil Change fiasco just dragged on and on.

Bottom Line, Change it at regular intervals (5000km's sounds safe and economical and EFFICIENT).

If you wish to do it on a more regular basis, go ahead.

If you wish to do it on a not so regular basis, go ahead.

Bottom line, it's YOUR 30,000 dollars that are in YOUR hands. $29.99/change every few months (more or less) isn't so bad. So what's the big deal?

Just a Canadians opinion

chmpz · November 2003

This is my first post in this forum.
Bought my 2002 Accord Lx 20 months ago in Southern California and moved to Iowa 14 months ago. Current Milage 33k. I do oil change every 4 or 5k and other maintanence required by the manual but ignore the services recommend by the dealer.
Two Problems so far I like to share with you:
1. check engin light comes on while driving.
Taking the words from the manual, I open the gas cap and recap it tight. After 3 trips, the light goes off. But this happened to me three times last week, so I went to the dealer (The only Honda dealer in Des Moinse). Verdict:
replace Sensor 36531-PAA-L4 (USD 256) and Control
M 37820-PAA (USD 612). So it will cost around $900 to solve the problem. Fortunatly, it's covered by the warrenty. But it still make me wondering...
2. key lock. This one is tiny and Very Annoying.
At times when I insert the key and try to start the engine, the key will be locked for 3-5 minutes. Afer that, I can turn the key and start the engine. This happened to me 4 times, 2 in California, 2 in Iowa. Of course, the dealer can not duplicate the problem. So I just hope it will not lock up for one hour or even longer next time.
One of my friends, who drives a 2002 Accord Ex, got the same problem even he has keyless entry which prevent most of the dirt or moiture you may have when open door or trunk.

Your comments are welcome.

dust90 · November 2003

chmpz, what do you mean the key is locked? Do you mean the ignition switch won't turn? If that is the case, try jiggiling the steering wheel back and forth while attempting(with normal pressure) to turn the key. There is a lock pin that the ignition switch moves in and out to lock the steering wheel and that could be sticking.

As to sythetic oil, I use it in both my vehicles, but I change at the factory recommended times so as not to void warranty. After the warranty is expired and if I don't buy an extended warranty, I will change the synthetic oil once a year or every 25,000 miles. Bought a Subaru 12 years ago and ran it to 248,000 miles on Mobil 1 with that oil change interval. Engine was running great when I sold it(however the body was about rusted away!

chmpz · November 2003

dust90, yes, the ignition sitch won't turn!
Thank you for your advice. I definitly will try it
if next time it lock me for more than 5 minutes.
But I do think it's a design flaw. Sometimes it did drive me mad because 10 minutes ago you drove this car smoothly and 10 minutes later you could not turn the key to start the engine. Imagine this in the snow storm in Feburary of Iowa.

ticos · November 2003

To all those having problems with the check engine light. This has been an issue with the previous generation Accord (98-02) engines (V-6 in particular). There is an EGR sensor recall that Honda sent out to the owners which is related to the check engine light. This is why the emissions warranty had to be extended on these cars. My car went back to the Honda dealer twice for this (on separate occasions).
There appears to be some defect that causes the sensors to get clogged and thus the engine light comes on (this is really the emissions warning light).
Do not drive around for an extended period of time with this light on as this may cause damage to the car. I was able to make the check engine light go off after adding a bottle of Chevron Techroline Fuel Injection cleaner to a full tank of gas (any concentrated fuel injection system detergent may do the trick) the last time the light went on.

gregoryc1 · November 2003

A 3,000 mile oil and filter change is just some good maintenance insurance against the formation of "sludge" in the engine. Once "sludge" forms in the engine, it will clog the oil passages, and destroy the motor in a short period of time. In order for the engine oil to clean, cool, lubricate and seal the component parts of the engine, it must flow easily through the oil passages, and over component parts. Clean oil can perform this function easily. Dirty oil cannot. For a few extra dollars a year, you can insure that your engine will be internally clean. ----Just my opinion. -----Greg

mdas · November 2003

Like I guessed, this was an emission control problem, the EGR was getting clogged. Honda already extended the warranty for this to 8 yrs, 80000. Took the car to the dealer, and they promptly fixed it. Tells me, Honda is still committed to service, this sort of thing gets the customer to buy a Honda again and again. Being a mechanical engineer myself, I dont expect anyone to build a perfect car, but I am satified with the after sales service

pj23 · November 2003

Well, I guess we're going to see a lot of sludged-up Accords in the very near future, since even Honda's severe maintenance schedule (for the 4-cylinder) does not come close to requiring an oil change every 3,000 miles. In fact, I'm surprised that we haven't seen any complaints of this yet here on Edmunds, given that many consumers will - surprisingly - follow Honda's recommended maintenance schedule.

As surprisingly, we haven't heard anything about sludged up '01-'04 model year Civics, because there too, the maintenance interval is 5k/10k for severe/normal driving. And in the 23k miles that I put on my '01 Civic EX - with oil changes at the recommended 10k and 20k mile services only - I had no sludge issue. Maybe I didn't keep it long enough, but I thought that the sludge didn't take long to form.

tblazer503 · November 2003

There may be a problem, but it's unlikely... hopefully, most people(if they follow the 10/20k) will realize that they probably shouldn't buy the 1.99 special oil filter to keep in the engine for 20k miles...

I personally tend to change mine every 6mo/5k miles... Every time I change it, looks relatively clean, but then again, IMO... probably a good 70% of the cars out there fall under the 'severe' schedule anyway... stop and go traffic, extended idling.... etc.

massmarket · November 2003

Has anyone heard of widespread problems on the 4-speed Honda/Acura auutomatic transmission? I heard a respectyed mechanic say that Honda is replacing troubled units and dissecting them.

bd21 · November 2003

Honda didn't extend anything or do you any favors. It's a federal law on all cars, that any component that falls under the emission's system has to be repaired under warranty for 8 years or 80,000 miles. It doesn't matter who makes the car, the warranty for emission's related parts and there are many parts that fall under this criteria, is 8 years or 80,000 miles. I like Hondas, but the reality is Hondas actually have the shortest warranty of any foreign car made!

auburn63 · November 2003

Actually that is not true at all. The only thing that is 8yr 80,000 warranty is the ECM/PCM and the catalytic converter. The EGR system was added as a warranty extension due to the high failure rate and Honda steppin up. There are many components in the system such as o2 sensors, map, TPS, purge control, FTP, canister vent ect.. ect.. That are not covered for 8 and 80.

bd21 · November 2003

Honda has the shortest, least coverage warranty of any car made! I looked at my Accord's warranty manual and I was shocked, Honda has found a way to cover almost nothing related to the emissions system. My Ford covers almost everything and so does my Nissan. Even fuel injectors are covered along with anything else that can impact emissions. Shame on Honda, they build great cars, but they just don't want to back them up. Thanks for keeping me straight, that's what I get for assuming.

gregoryc1 · November 2003

"Sludge Formation" is based on the type of operation of the vehicle. Short trip driving is a major cause of "sludge formation", because the engine never reaches operating temperature. Why take chances on destroying a piece of equipment. A well maintained engine will give the owner years of "efficient / trouble free service". "Stop and Go" driving is also very hard on the engine. Changing oil frequently is cheap maintenance, but I guess it is the personal choice of the owner. Since the owner of the vehicle knows how the vehicle is used on a daily basis, he / she is responsible for providing the proper maintenance for that vehicle based on that type of use. The information in the owner's manual is only a guide! If I were a factory Rep., and I found "sludge" in an engine that destroyed itself, I would not warranty that engine. I would force the owner of that vehicle into a court case. If the "court case" went against the company, all we would have to do is repair or replace the engine. If the court case went against the customer, he / she would be facing a very large repair bill. ------Just my opinion. ----Greg

4ztc524 · November 2003

interesting post. so you're saying that if i follow the honda-specified maintenance schedule, and have records to prove it, and sludge was found in my engine, you, as a hypothetical honda rep, would not warrant the engine and would force me into a court-case?????
how about a situation where someone fails to follow the honda recomended break-in procedure (not changing the oringinal oil until the first scheduled oil change, per the manual) and the engine fails. would you warrant the engine?

imidazol97 · November 2003

Now we have the sludge police telling us if we change the oil according to the recommendations from Honda, who does not want original oil changed early..., that the factory rep should refuse to pay for engine damage!!! LOL

Sludge is caused by engine hot spots breaking down oil, stop-and-go driving breaking down oil, and engines breaking down oil, causing deposits of gunk.

Honda says "change oil at xxxx for severe duty." That's what I'll follow.

bodble2 · November 2003

Following Honda's maintenance schedule is not 100% guarantee (nothing is 100% guarantee) that sludge won't happen, but I'll be willing to bet my mother-in-law's underwear that if I can document my maintenance, Honda WILL honour their engine warranty, no ifs and/or buts!

according2me · November 2003

you have a 100K tranny extended warranty from Honda. All 2000/01 Accords got it.

I'm at 109K and all is still going well, so my only "warranty" is good maintenance.

I've read some here say that the noise happens when rolling and engaging drive. I'd suggest holding the brake until the tranny engages and then proceed. Also wait until full stop in reverse before engaging drive.

bodble2 · November 2003

Or did a whole chunk of posts just got whacked?

irritatrix · November 2003

I've become very discouraged with my 2003 Accord, which I purchased in January 2003 and which now has a little over 13K miles on it. Between the day I bought it and a couple months later, the following problems began, and the dealer has been unable to fix any of them for more than a few days at a time:

Bad rattle in dash around CD player
Squeaking/creaking noise when driver's side window is all the way up.
Loud buzzing vibration from lid of trunk on bumpy roads.
Creaking of front passenger's side door.
And, the bane of so many Hondas, the clunking brake problem, which I also had on my previous car, a CR-V, and which they always claim can't be fixed.

I love driving this car, but the constant barrage of squeaks and rattles in a car that isn't even a year old is ruining the pleasure. And frankly, I don't see how I could ever sell the car to an individual, because I don't know who would buy it. The car is simply not solidly built, and it's distressing to rent low-end American cars when I travel and be relieved to be driving something quiet for a change. Is it worth writing to the parent company about it? I realize none of the problems are mechanical and therefore I don't have much recourse, but this is my third Honda, and it will definitely be my last, at this rate. When I bought the car I was reading these boards and I remember some Acura buyers complaining of similar problems. Where is their quality control?

davegod75 · November 2003

I don't know if this is normal or not. . . i'm assuming not since it's a new car with electronic throttle control...but when I have to accelerate very hard and quick i.e. floor it. the car takes a full second to actually engage and realize that I have floored it.

It feels like I'm driving my mom's 83 caprice wagon. Shouldn't the throttle response be instant?

chucko3 · November 2003

Somebody posted this SB in the 03 Accord coupe board.

My 2003 EX-V6 sedan fits the VIN number.
I don't hear any brake noise when braking. So I just wait until the problem shows up before bring it in.
The car only has 4k+ miles and 11 months old.

tblazer503 · November 2003

My '02 Trailblazer had ECT and the throttle response was similar. From what I could figure, the throttle just didn't like it and reluctantly went full ... just my opinion, but most likely, there is a ratio or speed in which the throttle will open...

gregoryc1 · November 2003

We just picked up a 2004 Honda Civic EX today. The recommended first oil and filter change, by the Honda dealer, is 3,750 miles, not 5,000 miles. Yes, there is a "break in oil" in the engine. This vehicle is a "purchase" not a lease, so we plan on keeping it for at least 6 years. Once we change the break in oil, we will be putting this vehicle on a schedule of 3,000 mile oil and filter changes. We just turned in our 2000 leased Civic. The lease company went over that vehicle very carefully. ----Greg.

Karen_S · November 2003

...just want to give everyone a heads up about some changes taking place in an effort to organize and make it easier for members to find the most appropriate discussion for their question/comment.

This discussion's title will soon change to "Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions" and it will reside in the Honda Accord Owners Club. However, it will also still be here in M&R. If you are subscribed to this topic now, the change should not affect that.

If you have any questions/concerns, please address them to me in email, karen@edmunds.com.

[Deleted User] · November 2003

I'm hoping that someone can give me some insight into this.

For the past few months my 95 Accord 4 door has been making what I would call a "thumping" sound from somewhere under the car (the noise may have been occurring longer than that, I just really started noticing it a few months ago).

The noise is obviously timed to the rotation of the wheels. When the car is stopped, there's no noise. When the car accelerates, the frequency of the thumping sound likewise increases. When the car is going fast, the sound kind of becomes continuous, blending in with the background road noise.

Despite this mildly annoying thumping noise, the car seems to run fine otherwise. The ride is not particularly bumpy. It seems to steer okay, and doesn't pull to one side or the other. I've driven several thousand miles since first noticing the noise, without any misadventure.

After having become aware of this noise, I have also noticed other (usually older) cars making a similar "thump, thump, thump" noise as they drive by my house, so my situation is probably not unique.

I've asked friends - all of whom are not much more knowledgeable than myself - what they think the problem could be. Bent wheels, rotors, ball joints, etc, are some of the suggestions, though no one is really certain. I thought there might be something loose under the car that is vibrating when the wheels turn. The muffler coincidentally was replaced a few weeks back, but
the thump noise was present before this and didn't change after the replacement, so I don't think that had anything to do with it.

Since the car is 9 years old, and has 108000 miles on it, (and I'll probably be getting a new one within a couple of years) I don't want to go on an expensive goose chase trying to find and solve a problem that is not really as of yet comprising in any way the basic transportation function of the car.

On the other hand, if something major is developing that will become a big problem down the road, I would like to nip it in the bud if possible.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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