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Comments
When everything is disassembled, the water pump is RIGHT THERE and easy to replace.
It's false economy to not replace it at this time.
It **could** last another 100,000 miles or it could start leaking two months later in which case the whole job would pretty much have to be done over.
This is why we, and any good shop will suggest doing the pump along with the t-belt.
And, the others are correct..you can't see a timing belt without taking off the cover.
Thankscheck Techline. Called the next day, said there was a fix and to bring it in. Took two days, the sound is gone. This problem was only on V6 Sedans and was fixed on the assembly line for later Accords. If you have this sound, basically during accelerating and sometimes braking, that's it. The ABS check is a minor thump, and only once. This sound occured at every stoplight. Don't let them tell you this is normal.
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Could you please provide the name and location of the service department that fixed the popping sound that occurs during accelerating and braking. I have taken in my 03 Honda Accord V6 numerous times to have the problem fixed but my service department is clueless even after providing them posts about the missing spot welds and telling them about the techline documents. They insist that that's not the problem but they still haven't fixed it.
Thanks
Thanks
Hope this helps, let us know what happens. Good Luck!
If there was a severely damaged belt, it is very unlikely that it is your timing belt unless you shattered the cover, or they forgot to replace the cover during the maintenance... most likely it is a broke belt on one of the pulleys, and the lack of pressure is causing another belt to squeal... wierd systems, these belts.
Thanks.
Thanks!
I just need to ck for dents and scratches now!!!
IMO, not unless he's built like Arnold the Governor and he's really leaning into it. Maybe then he might dent the trunk lid.
My Email cdodai@hotmail.com.
Thank you.
My car currently doesn't have any popping noise, but I am curious where/how the fix is.
Is the email bigger than 2MB in size?
if he can't respect your stuff, then don't let him ride in the car with you.
But it shouldn't hurt the car as long as he's putting equal pressure on both sides of the trunk lid when slamming it.
If you have a spoiler it could damage that. I've seen spoilers with a curve down in the middle from the same type of abuse.
If there is something in the way one day, it could be a problem depending on the force involved. probably wouldn't be very cheap to fix a dent or damaged catch on the trunk. I usually lower all the way down, then just push down the last inch or so...
If you really want, you *could* upgrade the trunk springs to the ones for the trunk with the spoiler, that should slow it down a bit.
Guy who got the job said they only replaced water pumps when they had a problem and they have very few problems with honda water pumps.
Asked one service guy who was a "replacer" if he also ground disc brake rotors every time he replace pads. He got angry-think he was a grinder also-will have to call him back now and see if he grinds.
Yeah it would be a major bummer to have to replace a water pump a few months after having replaced the timing belt-but not enough to spend the bucks-for me at least.
They also fixed the first "blemish" (sniffle) - a small scrape on passenger side view mirror. (No charge for that either.)
Now the real test - I don't find any faults with the Michelin stock tires on my car, but the snows were put on today. (Bridgestone Blizzaks - Nokian Hakkeppellitas are out of stock for the rest of the season!) If I notice a difference, especially with all the rain we are getting, I'll be back here in the spring begging for tire recommendations!
can you describe what a shim is, where is goes, etc. thanks!
This customer had decided to "save" money by not replacing his water pump as reccommended when he had his timing belt replaced.
Well, guess what?...six months later, the water pump started leaking.
His work order stated that we had reccommended a new pump at the time and stated he had declined the reccomemdation. He was ticked.
The pump has already done 105,000 miles.
Just makes sense to throw a new one on along with a set of drive belts and have one less thing to worry about.
But...it's up to you!
If you have not replaced the water pump at the time you replace the t-belt, it's a good idea to replace the pump. The cost (part & labor) to replace the water pump itself is close to the t-bel job. So throw in another ~$100, you get the pump replaced.
It's like pay me small now or pay me big later.
It really sucks when the idler pulley bearing goes bad after 40k(150k on the car) and starts burning the belt, causing it to fail prematurely(had this happen, had the idler pulley checked, was fine when timing belt changed)... 2 people I know had a water pump main shaft shear right inside of the bearing, and the other guy developed a leak. Luckily for me, when the idler pulley bearing went bad, it was in a Toyota NI engine, and the valves didn't tap. Honda, well... I don't think they make engines that are NI. At the very least, I would probably have the service guy pull the water pump and inspect the bearing and main shaft for signs of wear/corrosion. Of course, at that point, for an extra $50 or so, he can just put a new one in....
Almost like needing a 10, 12, 14, and 17mm sockets, so you go in and buy them for $4ea, but won't buy the 10piece set w/ all those sockets and a ratchet for $20 because you don't need them. (needless to say, I have a few extra sockets lying around... okay, a bunch of 'em)
Before the fix, I had a neighbor (huge guy, bodybuilder, etc.) try to push and tug on the seat, and he couldn't get it to budge. Only thing that would do it was a hard, left turn - curves, no matter the speed or sharpness, didn't do it.
I was sure they were going to say there was nothing wrong with it, that all seats have some give, etc., but... when they drove the car into the shop, they made sure to do a hard left, and (luckily for me!) the seat did shift.
Even when Honda reccommends them and even when you already have them?
The 04 I4's use a chain driven timing belt IIRC-does it drive the water pump also - hmm guess water pump sales on these models will decrease accordingly. Would think the water pump should continue to be belt driven-interesting question-anybody know the answer????
The way I got to the 800 was an average of say 4-5 hours @ 75/hr(in my area) is about 3-400 in itself. Add in about $300 for parts(t-belt, water pump, idler pulley, drive belts, etc) and another $100 or so for the tune-up parts(cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel/air filters, etc) which I have had them do the same time if I am lazy.
One of them commit and do it all at once things for me... if I am working on it and am already filthy, I will usually opt to do what I can ...
If it ain't broke-don't fix it unless it helps your wallet.
You know Honda reccommends replacing the crush washer every oil change. Right?
And you even went out and bought a supply of them...Right?
But you don't/won't use them?
I just don't understnad.
For those who may not know...
A crush washer does it's "crush" thing only once. By the washer crushing when the plug is tightened it helps prevent overtightening of the drain plug.
When the old washer is used, it is necessary to apply more force to seat the drain plug.
It's not REAL critical, but given enough time and enough oil changes, it's easy to strip the oil pan threads. At that point, it'll leak and the entire oil pan may have to be replaced.
He has the crush washers but refuses to use them???
I just don't understand the logic, that's all...
However for those of you who change your own honda auto tranny fluid aka ATF-think you should consider changing that washer as ATF is "thinner" than motor oil and it stays in longer-30K-no more IMHO-despite the 90K suggested change interval-got a CEL on tranny and the fluid was burnt with ALL highway driving at 70K.
So like I said-don't fix it if it ain't broke but do change that ATF at 30K (using only honda atf) and use a new and pricey washer.
91 Accord--
Had timing belt replaced @ 80K. Water pump started leaking at 115K. Approx. $300 wasted.
Had timing belt replaced again at 145K. Now water pump is leaking at 185K. Best price that I have been quoted to do all over again is $585.
Think I have now learned my lesson. Water pump will be replaced EVERY time that the timing belt is replaced.
Also on the crush washers. Reused the same washer one time too many on a motorcycle and stripped the threads in the oil pan. If you think that an oil pan for an Accord is expensive, price one for a motorcycle!!!
As Isell says, they are called "crush" washers for good reason.
As for the new chains and pumps there is no labor overlap so that takes away the need to do them at the same time.
Crush washers are real cheap and if changed often and properly will save the pan from being damaged
I wonder if auburn would change the oil in his own Honda and not use the 25 cent crush washer?
To each his own...
reminds me of a classic puzzler on the NPR Car Talk show.... some guy hooks up a vacuum to engine oil cap hole... so he could put the crush washer he forgot to put on when he changed oil....BOGUS was the key word used. funny guys, click and clack.
Am a serious believer in maintenance-but why use a crush washer when it is not needed-torque the drain plug to no more than 20 foot pounds - manual sez 33 but I am cautious - and no leaks or crushed washers or stripped drain plugs in 40+ years.
How many of you guys change your own oil-the new accords and Oddy has really simplified oil change-no jack required. Also how many of you with accords with auto trannies change atf every 30K or less-course if you drive like a granny-90K change intervals should do the trick.
Have well over 500K miles on accords I have owned and maintained and not one maintenance related failure-da proof be in da pudding.