Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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Comments

  • bshelbshel Member Posts: 232
    I'm glad to hear I wasn't the only one with heater control knob problem. I did have it replaced 1x, but thought it was my fault that it broke.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    Ok then to remove the center panel you have to open the center storage pry up the cover in the bottom,remove the 2 screws,remove the cup holder by pulling it up and out then remove the screw by the shifter assy, pull the center console back out of the way,now remove the 2 screws by the shifter,pull the ash tray out and remove the 1 screw there, now the rest is clips and connectors so pull the radio panel out of the way, now remove the radio, then the 2 screws into the bottom of the heater panel, remove the dimmer switch,cruise switch and the screws in behind plus the 2 in the dash visor (6 total including the two into the bottom of the heater panel), remove the heater cable from below rs of dash, now pull on dash panel to remove heater panel/visor assy. Alot to do but not hard, hope I remembered all the steps....Good luck
  • gm02gm02 Member Posts: 49
    THANK YOU!
    Will let you know how it goes, it be a week or 2 b4 I can get to it.
    One other thing, do I need to dis-engage the air bag and if so, how is that done? Should I also disconnect the neg battery cable?
  • 01accordlx01accordlx Member Posts: 14
    I purchased a 2001 Accord LX certified pre-owned about two months ago. I have noticed that there is a rattling/rubbing noise coming from the dashboard near the in-dash speakers on both sides. When I hold the speaker, it stops. It also seems to stop when the outside temperature is above 50 degrees. It is driving me bananas. I haven't had it looked at yet, but it is about due for the complimentary oil change, so I will then. But, before I do that, has anyone had similar problems? If so, any suggestions for correcting the problem (other than turning up radio volume!)?

    Thanks
  • starihstarih Member Posts: 10
    Hi,

    I bought a 2004 Accord EX-V6 w/navigation 4 days ago and while everything seems to be fine with the car, I seem to have about 3 separate instances where my engine wouldn't start at the first attempt. I thought it was pretty simple where I just put the key in, turn it and the car should start right?

    I would repeat the same procedure again a second time and the car started up without a problem.

    Should I be alarmed and take it back to the dealer to check out? or am I just being paranoid?

    I had my last car for 13 years and it always started at the first attempt. Is this normal for a Honda? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • ken972ken972 Member Posts: 162
    This is a issue witht the 03/04 V6's. Ive noticed you have to turn the key to ignition a little longer then other cars. There is a section in your owners manual that address's this. Helps to have the A/C, lights, seat heaters, radio off before you start as well.
  • talon95talon95 Member Posts: 1,110
    It's just a matter of getting used to how the car starts. I noticed the same thing with my 2003 V6 when I first got it, and now it starts first time, every time. Check your owner's manual, as ken972 suggested, and just give it a little time.
  • asafonovasafonov Member Posts: 401
    03 Accord LX 4dr auto has this problem. Dropped it off at the dealer, they acknowledged the problem, mentioned there were (non safety-critical) Honda DSB's on underbody panels, and promised to fix it by EOB tomorrow - I will repost per the solution.
  • starihstarih Member Posts: 10
    Ken972 and talon95, thanks for the advice. I did read through the manual on starting the engine and it seems as if it's normal for this happen. It happened again this morning as I started the car. I'll give it a couple more weeks to "break in" the car. I just get freaked out when it doesn't start right away. I bought this car mainly for it's reliability and now I'm starting to fear that it won't start at all one day and now I'm paranoid because this has happened every day since I got the car.

    I have to take the car in this week, so I guess I'll ask the dealer. There's a rubber piece that came off the back door frame when I opened the door. I'm sure a little glue will do the trick, but I'll let the dealer take care of it.

    My confidence in my Honda is going down and I've only had it for five days.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    No need to disconnect the battery or the air bags for what you are going to be doing..Good luck
  • dust90dust90 Member Posts: 169
    Just tap the gas pedal lightly when starting. It seems the V6 requires a little more air than what the throttle body provides for most starts. This works great on my V6.
  • mikecmikec Member Posts: 40
    This is a known problem in the latest generation of Accords (2003, 2004).

    The comments about turning accessories off before starting, or giving it some extra gas are, to put it mildly, poppycock. You should not have to do this on a modern vehicle.

    Here's the problem:

    Defective fuel pressure regulator.

    Have them replace it. TSB search should bring it up.
  • nw1997nw1997 Member Posts: 227
    mikec,

       I agree with you on this one. Because of the position of which my vehicle is parked I go through the passenger side to gain access, but even before I hop over the seats I actually start our 04 V6 Accord from standing outside of the vehicle from the passenger side. What I do is turn the ignition to the on position, in which there is a humming noise, I believe it is the fuel pump. That humming stops after a second or two, then I turn the key to the start position in which it starts immediately. In one of Honda's discussion they stated that the long starting was due to pollution reduction and it was not a defect. If anyone is interested I could forward them the link.
  • mikecmikec Member Posts: 40
    Although I'm happy with my Accord, I find that Honda has habit claiming "design" when it is a defect.

    The majority of engine wear occurs when you start your engine. The more you crank, the more wear is done. This is just a fact.

    He bigger problem is that it can leave you stranded!

    Modern vehicles should start very quickly. That is the way the are designed. Look at any new Toyota, Ford, GM, etc.

    Honda has a big goof here, and I'm surprised they did not fix in 2004.
  • bhath19bhath19 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Honda Accord that the steering wheel will shake/shimmy when I brake usually just from higher speeds. I just had the brakes checked about a month ago and they said that everything was great. I just got two new tires on the front of the car which were balanced. The two on the back don't need replacing right now. I don't feel anything in the brake when I am stepping on it like you would if the pad was scraping something. Plus, there is no sound from the brakes. What could the problem be?
  • nw1997nw1997 Member Posts: 227
    check if your rotors are warped.
  • gotribegotribe Member Posts: 101
    I'm getting discouraged with a number of quality problems I've not had on past Accords. In 15k miles, brake pads have been replaced twice and rotors once because of pedal pulsation/rumbling. Now problem is back again. Also, I've noticed a lot of premature interior wear around the lower door panels and especially around the ignition key area which scratches extremely easily. Also, many interior "buzzes" that seem to come and go depending on temperature which the dealer can never replicate. I've resisted admitting that this generation Accord is not up to prior quality standards, but I'm beginning to have some real doubts. Thoughts?
  • brigg10brigg10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Accord EX. The color is Black Courant. I think that is what they call it. It is a deep maroon color. The paint is discoloring with loss of pigmentation at different spots all over the car. Has anyone else had this problem? How did you get it resolved? There is only 22000 miles on the car. It doesn't seem a paint problem should be reasonable at this early a date.
    Thanks
    Brigg10
  • htthtt Member Posts: 75
    My '04 EX V6 is solid... no rattle anywhere inside the car except a tiny bit of wind noise.
  • rcc8179rcc8179 Member Posts: 131
    I, too, have been having intermittant noises/rattles from my 2003 EX (and of course, the brake problems). The dealer has been able to fix several noises, but a few still remain. I can understand (but still am unhappy with) noises in a first-model-year car, but the brake problems are ridiculous. How much have disk brakes really changed in the last half century or so?

    The brakes shook excessively after all three long (500+ miles) highway trips I have taken. About a month ago, the dealer replaced the front pads and rear rotors, and turned the front rotors again. The brakes seem to be fixed now (I guess I will see for sure when I drive to Washington, D.C., next month).

    I have driven a 2004 Accord as a loaner from the dealer, and it seemed much quieter than my 2003. I think many of the more common noises have been eliminated with the 2004s. Of course, there is only so much that can be done--the entire interior is held together with cheap plastic clips. My 1989 Accord had none of the rattles/noises that this car does, even at 200k+ miles. The only time I ever heard thermal cracking noises in the 1989 was in sub-zero temperatures (not <40F and >80F like in the 2003). But the 1989 was the last year before a redesign and was built before all manufacturers started cost-cutting. I guess the adage, "They don't build them like they used to.," is quite true.

    I don't mind the firmer suspension. I like the fact that they reduced the engine and road noise. But, if the car has a firm suspension and is otherwise quiet, any little noise/rattle sticks out like a sore thumb. If the car is not SOLID, it sounds like a piece of junk.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Member Posts: 3,387
    "The majority of engine wear occurs when you start your engine. The more you crank, the more wear is done. This is just a fact."

    But this wear is caused by higher RPM running with low oil pressure. Cranking the engine a little longer will not hurt the engine. In fact most engine rebuild manuals recommend cranking an engine WITHOUT spark for a while to make sure the oil circulates throughout the engine. You really don't want the car to be running at high idle right away.
    If there were an oil pressure guage in the Accord you would see it take a few seconds for the oil pressure to get to normal. It's like this in all cars. A little extra cranking may do more good than harm in that area.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    As an owner of both 89 & 03 Accords, I have to say the biggest problem with the 89 Accords is brakes. The rotors don't last more than a year. After a year, the rotors start warping. Had the original calipers replaced, new rotors & pads last July. Let see how long the rotors last this time with new calipers.
    So far the 03 performs flawlessly. Probably I have not put enough milages on it yet. It has only 5900 miles and 16 months old. And it already had 2 oil changes (done by the dealer).
  • rcc8179rcc8179 Member Posts: 131
    Are you using Honda brake parts or aftermarket on your 1989 Accord? I had all sorts of problems with the aftermarket brakes that were on mine when I bought the car (at about 125k miles). The rotors did warp very quickly. But when I switched to Honda OEM pads/rotors & shoes/drums, they lasted a lot longer.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    WHY BOTHER? SEEMS LIKE SOME PEOPLE OWN OIL STOCK AND WANT PEOPLE TO BELIEVE THAT THERE HAVE BEEN NO IMPROVEMENTS IN LUBRICATION SYSTEMS IN YEARS.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    Sorry, actually meant to respond to gee35coupe.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    I have been using aftermarket brake parts for my 89 which I won't be doing with my 03 Accord.
    I think there is a brake design problem with that generation. The rotors are too small. So they get hot and warped easily.
    There are no problems with the shoes & drums though.
  • pj23pj23 Member Posts: 158
    I'm pleased with the way the rattles in my '03 (purchased December '02) have sorted themselves out. My issue was with the noise the door seals made when going over a bump or rough section of road (some have described this as a crinkling noise). This issue sorted itself out about 15,000 miles ago, with no intervention from me. The seals themselves are a bit harder than in the last generation, and I think maybe they needed some time to break in. I have never had an issue with the center console rattles or any others.

    My car was in for its 30,000 mile service yesterday, and after the tire rotation and wheel balancing that the dealer did as part of the service, I have to say that the car drives as well now as it did the day I picked it up. No more rattles, the interior is holding up very well, and the engine and 5sp manual are a dream. I have a habit of getting rid of my cars every year or so, but this Accord is so satisfying that I really don't have the urge to get something new.
  • northwest1northwest1 Member Posts: 65
    My 03 DX 5 speed sedan (Japan-built) has been buzzing in the area near the CD compartment...I had thought it was the compartment itself (or the spring loaded door), but it is really coming from the gear shift stalk (in 5th gear only, at about 65 MPH). The buzz is coming from somewhere near the base of the shifter. When I put a little lateral pressure on the gearshift stalk, the buzz goes away. Anybody else have this problem? Solution? Is this hard to fix? The buzz is pretty noticeable and is quite irritating.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    This is what your warranty is for. Should be simple to fix.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    Is anyone having a problem with their 2004 overhead sunglass holder/bin dropping open by itself? Mine just started to do so a day or two ago. I believe it to be temperature related.
  • ttbttb Member Posts: 40
    Dear All:

    Does anyone know how to take down the glove box of a 04 Accord?

    I'm trying to see if the rattle is coming from the pollen filter.

    Much appreciated.

    Tony
  • rcc8179rcc8179 Member Posts: 131
    It is quite simple to do. First, open the glove box and remove everything in it. On the right side (by the passenger door) there is a plastic hook that clips into the glove box door. Unclip this by pushing it away from you (toward the front of the vehicle). Then squeeze together the top corners of the side "wall" of the glove box (as far toward the front of the vehicle as you can). This will release the glove box from the stops. The glove box will now pivot down.

    To completely remove the glove box, there are 2 Phillips screws at the bottom that are unscrewed.
  • inspectoringinspectoring Member Posts: 102
    I just got this 4 weeks ago (bought it with 35 miles) - and unfortunatley there are two problems and I would greatly appreciate any input.
    1. the transmission seems to have troble shifting down while I am drive at 25 ~ 35 mph....if I let go of the accelerator the rpm seems to be stuck at 2...and stays there till I slow down to about 15 mph - and then a sudden peak (about 2.2) and then goes back to 1....
    during this - I feel the car is a bit heavy....this happens too often to neglect

    2. there is some very dull, very low rattling noise in the engine - that is only if I go at highway speeds and come to rest...but that noise will go away as soon as I put the car in park and then put it in drive agian -maybe its just me but about 50% of my friends say they don't hear anything...I don't want to be ridiculed by the dealer....

    thank you for your input....
  • lelandhendrixlelandhendrix Member Posts: 240
    I hate that you have the slightest suspicion your dealer's service department would treat you poorly. It is their responsibility to make you happy and at ease with your vehicle.

    If these things question your confidence in the vehicle, you have every right to take a diagnostic ride with a technician. I suggest it. My dealer has always made me feel great about my car, even though they had to explain a couple of the things I thought were wrong were actually quite normal.
  • ttbttb Member Posts: 40
    Thanks a lot. I'm going to give it a shot.

    Do I just do the reverse to put the glove box back it? Any tips and tricks?

    Thanks again.
  • rcc8179rcc8179 Member Posts: 131
    It is just the opposite to reinstall. The only tip is that it might be easier to have a second set of hands when you are reinstalling the two screws at the bottom.
  • webexplorerwebexplorer Member Posts: 21
    I've a 03ExV6 for about 8k miles now. Recently I heard a noise coming somewhere from the gear box or vicinity area every time I brake or drive from a stop. It sounds something like the sound you would hear when you tap on the brake panel when the gear is in the 'Park' position, but I'm hearing this while I'm driving, and the sound is louder. It's not the ABS checking sound which I'm aware of. Should I be concerned with this? Thanks for any input.
  • ineedhelpineedhelp Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 LX V6 and the rear passenger window is making a rattling and vibrating noise when it is a quarter of the way down. The window moves up and down fine but it always makes the sound whenever it is opened slightly. Does anyone know what could be the problem?
  • rcc8179rcc8179 Member Posts: 131
    I, too, am having a noise in all 4 windows when they are slightly down. Whenever I go over bumpy roads (which is nearly every road in Indiana), I hear a metallic-clicking type sound. I can sometimes reproduce it in the driveway by grabbing the window and moving it up and down (I can move them about an inch or so).

    I am not sure what the problem is, but I am guessing it is too much slop in the window regulator. Perhaps someone here has had this problem and has been able to fix it.(?)
  • kevinvkevinv Member Posts: 8
    I'm looking to do a basic tune up on my 92 accord lx auto with 163K. What items, such as plugs, wires, etc. should i replace and what would be the ballpark for cost of these parts. Is there anything that i should be aware of or somthing to look out for?

    Also, ive notice my valves tapping right after start up. is this an easy and inexpensive fix for a garage to perform or is this part of a large more expensive problem to come?
  • rumpletzerrumpletzer Member Posts: 39
    I just came to this discussion for the first time to ask the exact same question!! I bought a 2004 Accord EX three weeks ago, and then I went on vacation. I drove it to work today for the first time. When I returned to the car at lunch time, I noticed the sunglass bin open, and it wouldn't stay closed. On the drive home (cooler time of day) it would stay closed only until I hit a little bump on the highway. It opens without anything in it.

    I'll see if it stays closed again tomorrow morning when it's cold out.

    Is there something I can do to resolve this without having to take it back to the dealer?
  • mwcarlsomwcarlso Member Posts: 85
    A basic tune-up includes replacing the spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and distributor cap and rotor. You should also consider replacing the coolant, brake fluid, and trans fluid if it has not been changed recently. If the spark plug wires are original consider replacing them too. The valve noise when you start it means that the valves probably need to be adjusted, no big deal. Ask around to find a honda mechanic if you don't want to take it to a dealer for the valve adjustment. I would stick with Honda parts, and you can purchase them online at hondaautomotiveparts.com
    and save some money over dealer prices.
    Hope this helps.
  • jmellenbjmellenb Member Posts: 35
    My 2003 Accord has made a small squeak for several months when I initally turn on the interior blower fan at low speed. Now the squeak is continuing past the intial fan start-up, squeaking while I drive. Have any of you had this experience? Thanks.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    that is normal. my car does it too. it alarmed me at first, but now i am used to it. it is actually a testament to how quiet the car is. it is the EXACT same sound that the car makes when you press the brake in PARK, right? a sort of "clicking" sound that happens when you first press the brake? if so, i wouldn't worry. if it happens AS you brake, constantly, until you lift off the brake, then it must be something else. my sound only happens for a split second, everytime you touch the pedal.
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    I just had the sunglass bin replaced under warranty this morning. No questions asked.

    You must love Cats.
  • webexplorerwebexplorer Member Posts: 21
    Thanks Justin. I'm not sure if the sound is the EXACT clicking sound as I described. I will investigate it more on this weekend.
  • newtontynewtonty Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing the exact same downshifting issues as you described. I bought my v4 accord 3 weeks ago. It is very noticable going up and down hills right around 25-35 mph. One time when I went to park my car I noticed I was still stuck in 2nd gear. After about 5 seconds of being fully stopped, the transmission then shifted into 1st gear. I will probably go to my dealership about this.
  • musicboymusicboy Member Posts: 66
    blane> I just had the sunglass bin replaced
    blane> under warranty this morning. No questions
    blane> asked.

    Were you able to demonstrate the problem to the service department? Mine is intermittant and I can see the dealer just looking at me while I try to demonstrate the problem.

    Was your dealer already aware of such a problem?
  • rumpletzerrumpletzer Member Posts: 39
    Thanks for the follow-up blane... I guess I'll head in tomorrow too.

    It could be that I just love stealing stuff, but kittens ARE delicious.
  • aggie1995aggie1995 Member Posts: 318
    I have 2 issues that I need to fix on my Accord. The first is the warping brake rotors that causes vibration when braking. The second is the shifting driver's seat when braking.

    Can someone provide the TSB numbers that

    1. Recommend to the dealer to replace existing rotors and replace the brake pads with the new ones that don't cause the warping.

    2. Recommend to the dealer to put shims of some type on the seat track assembly to keep the seat from shifting.

    Thanks for your help
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