Need advice on how to deal with apparent major engine problem on new Accord. Service Dept diagnosed "defective V-Tech" today. State they will "replace/ make like new"-- and I should be "just fine". Should I insist on a replacement car??? Having owned my extremely reliable volvo for 10 years (never stalled on freeway), I am very leery of my 9 day old, 300 miles driven new HONDA with "engine defect"... Any similar experiences,advice??? Is this a "monday morning/ lemon" vehicle which I should run from??? Thanks, Deborah
There are several causes for the seat movement. The fix is based on what kind of movement and when. I had the whole driver's seat frame replaced buy the dealer because of shifting during firm stops. The tech also talked about seats that shift during turns and some other problems. These are not unknown. I am not sure if there is a TSB, but you can search this board and others to get information. The problem is real, has a fix, keep after the dealership not to ignore it (it took me three tries before it was fixed).
2004 Accord V6 w/navi. I had the brake booster changed at 1800 miles (two weeks ago). That was to get rid of a metallic rubbing noise. The problem is still somewhat there, but feels better.
Now at 2200 miles, I can feel the brake pedal very slowly move forward about 1/2 inch when stopped at a light. Then the pedal will pressurize and push back against my foot. This goes back and forth until I take my foot off the brake.
The guy at the Honda dealer told me this may be considered normal as the engine is pulling on the booster and the booster is connected to the brake pedal.
I've spoken to other people and they say it's the master cylinder.
I'm taking another trip to the service dept. Thursday and I'd like to be a little more knowledgable on how to deal with the service dept.
Does anyone have any experience with American Honda? I called them about 3 weeks ago and got a phone call from the case manager yesterday and he was quite rude, condescending, and confrontational with me on the phone. Now, I'm having difficulty at the dealership with the General Manager not speaking with me and the American Honda case manager being a jerk.
This is a follow up to my previous post. The dealer took the car for 2 days and replaced the "window controller". It's been about 2 weeks and I have not had intermittent window problems since... just wanted to let people know....
Let the dealer repair the vehicle under the terms and conditions of the warranty. After the vehicle is "up and running", then you can make a decision as to what you want to do with the vehicle! If you keep the vehicle, I would ask for a 7 year 100,000 mile "bumper to bumper / 0 deductable extended warranty as a "gift"!
<< I can feel the brake pedal very slowly move forward about 1/2 inch when stopped at a light. Then the pedal will pressurize and push back against my foot. This goes back and forth until I take my foot off the brake. >>
Sometime I feel the same thing too on my 03EXV6, but it does not go back and forth.
sorry for the delay on answer but havent been able to get on in a day or so. Anyhow If you are getting this with no check engine light or running/shifting problems then I would suspect that the guage(speedometer) itself is going bad. The ECM and the TCM rely on the same sensor as the speedo for their signal..
I recently bought my accord and after going to dealers 3 times they told me I have a defective transmission and they replaced it. I also tried to fix some noise coming from what sound like the trunk and other rattles, but the dealership did not put this in the computer and didn't even touch it. I complained about this to corp. Honda case manager and he told me the dealer does not want to see me again. Now my transmission does not shift up or down smoothly. It sort of jerks when it shifts and when shifting down at about 40 per hour it stays at 2000rpm and feels like its dragging. I cant even take it back to them. I have some questions.
Does anyone's transmission shift smoothly up and down.
Have you ever been told that you can not come on Saturdays to fix major problems?
Has a dealer ever tell you they can not fix rattles if its raining?
Does anyone else's seat move forward and then back again when braking hard? They told me that's normal.
One other interesting issue:
On the Honda website it states that the rear defroster has a timer.
Mine does not turn off until I turn it off or shut down the car. Corp Honda guy said that my ACCORD EX V6 2004 does not have a timer on the rear defroster. So do I or don't I? Does anyone's defroster turn off after a certain amount of time? Please let me know because I think they are lying to me. I never herd of a car not having this.
Anyway Honda is horrible at costumer service. I don't know how they are considered great cars. And I will never ever buy another HONDA or Acura again.
I am going to look at a 1994 Accord EX that will be used primarily by my teenage son. It is a 4 cylinder engine, the VTEC I believe. One thing I am having trouble finding information on is the recommended mileage for timing belt replacement. Searching this board, I've also seen comments that it may have a timing chain rather than a belt, but also comments on belt replacements done at varying different mileage points.
Can anyone clarify? Also, is this an interference or non-interference engine? Thanks!
--K9Leader 2000 Subaru Outback 1998 Toyota Sienna 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII
The 94 Accord has a timing belt. This should be replaced at 90,000 miles then every 60,000 aferwards I believe. You should also have your water pump replaced when you do the timing belt. Most of the charge for replacing your water pump would be the labor so if you have the pump done at the same time you will save hundreds of dollars in labor. Also, if the water pump locks up it could cause your timing belt to snap which could cause engine damage. It is an interference engine which makes the timing belt/water pump service that much more important.
I have a 2003 Accord LX-V6. At any speed I can hear a slight whistling sound, especially at idle speed. It comes from driver-side vent area. At lower speed, it turns a little loudly when I turn around. At higher speed the wind sound will cover the noise, but it can still be figured out if pay attention.
The noise is not real loud, but loud enough to be a bother. It's definitely not wind noise.
I notice that my 03 EX-V6's climate control fan sometimes makes a whistling noise - I think the Edmunds long term test of the 03 EX noted this as well. Try varying the fan speed and turning off the climate control system to see if you notice a difference - good luck!
Lately I noticed when I started my 03EXV6 I heard a soft buzzing noise before the engine started to turn. I am not sure if the sound came from the starter or the ignition switch. It did not happen all the time. Does anyone hear this sound when starting the car?
Be careful, engines weren't made to get too wet and whatever you do DON'T steam clean the engine. Even harsh detergents will remove the waterproofing from the wires and other parts and remove the finish from aluminum parts and leave you with vacuum leaks and problems you will never be able to find and fix. Keep the hood closed and you won't notice if the engine is dirty.
I have an 04 EX 4 cyl and it downshifts when going down hills. I guess its a "feature" but can be disconcerting when I hit the brakes at the same instant. I also noticed it will hold the lower gear when going down hills unless I am going over forty MPH in which case it will eventually upshift. I was always told not to use the tranny as a brake as its cheaper to buy brakes than a transmission. As to your rattles you might try cleaning out the trunk, and I mean everything thing especially the spare and jack and what ever else is not nailed down. empty out the glove compartment and center console and then go for a drive and see if the rattles go away. If so then its something you took out otherwise could be exhaust system or suspension. I thought I had a rattle deep in the dashboard but it turned out to be the cover for the CD holder. When opened no rattle when closed the door rattled. I took a business card and wedged it between the side of the dash and the CD door and the rattle/buzz is gone. Hope this helped. I traded an AUDI A4 on the Accord with no regrets and 10 grand more in my pocket.
For $25 bucks or so get a Carfax report and make sure it wasn't a flood car. If the car had any kind of insurance claim associated with it there will be a reference in this report.
My EX I4 2003 doesn't downshift when it goes downhill. It does, however, control the transmission for not shifting any higher to maintain constant speed. This is a feature that I like..
I've been fueling up with Walmart 87 octane these past 2 weeks and have begun to sense less responsiveness and power. Not sure if it was the gas, last night I put in COSTCO 87. Almost immediate smoothness and punch, not to mention absence of pinging.
Change brands if there's a perceived loss of engine performance. Worked long enough in the oil business to know that there are many variables affecting the final quality of pump gas.
In fact, good gas at one outlet may not be true the following week. Fuel retailers could have more than one wholesale vendor who, in turn, may buy from various refiners.
ALWAYS purchase fuel from a NAME BRAND station! Off Brand stations are a QUESTION as to "QUALITY"! Eighty Seven(87) octane at Walmart might not be the same as eighty seven(87) octane at a Major Brand Gas Station in terms of additives. Fuel injectors could easily form deposits, that will show up as a performance problem.
Major-brand ("MB") gas isn't necessarily on-spec all the time.
Between the MB refinery and the MB gas pump on Main St. are 3rd parties in the supply chain, namely the a) barge companies and b) overland carriers.
Inadvertent and deliberate fuel dilution could occur at any of the 2 stages, from improper container condition to kerosone spiking.
An MB convenience store would probably be under greater pressure to maintain its quality reputation, but its uncontrollables are of the same magnitude as the Walmart and Costco stores.
Thus the advice not to be brand- or location-loyal.
PS Additives are put in at the refinery holding tanks, which serve both MB and off-brand channels (single-quality inventory is more economical to the refiner).
Just noticed yesterday that the side panel (i.e., bolster?) on the drivers seat is wearing poorly and has several split. Dealer is not open today so will have to sit tight until tomorrow. It is disappointing to say the least - but will hopefully have an easy resolution (i.e., new seat cover). It is an 11 month old 2003 EX with 14,000 miles. Have had a lot of leather and never had this happen before! Likely poor piece of leather from the start. I'm a Honda loyalist and hope to stay that way.
I just heard a discussion on a cars-related talk show about some states (Ohio) who don't have retail gasoline quality testing who are getting lower quality gasoline that wouldn't be used in other states. Could this be related to major brands having refineries/headquarters in the state and that past attorney general having come from one of those areas???? Think so????
They specifically mentioned or a caller mentioned Speedway which is a subsidiary of a major brand which has facilites in Ohio as having had a bad bunch of gas in the Louisville area.
Re additives: A manager at a department store gas station here told me that the additives dumped into each tanker for delivery were the same for regular and plus. He pulled out delivery sheets to see and the same additives had been added to the tankers at the origination tank farm. That implied to me that certain additives may be in the large storage tanks but specific additives are put in before transport to the local station.
The program is Car Guys on wkrc 550 Cincinnati. I believe it can be heard on the Web site early Saturday afternoons.
I would be interested in every detail for holding the battery cables together for 10 seconds. Do you need to disconnect from the battery and does the ignition need to be turned on?
Down here recently, Shell (motiva refinery) acknowledged bad gas from their refinery. It made the newspapers and TV news. They supplied not only Shell, but also Exxon, Chevron/Tex and other independents. It appears they had too much sulphur and gas gauges were indicating fuel, when in fact the tank was empty. Quite a few people stranded recently in this area because of this according to Enterprise. Shell did notify there outlets, but not before it had affected many. So even major brand is not a guarantee. I usually alternate betweeen Sams's and Chevron.
just called Honda Cust Service at the 800 number. spoke with LaVerne. i asked her for the name and address (for FedEx purposes) of the CEO. she would not give me the name of the CEO of Honda. isn't that illegal? in the U.S., aren't we supposed to get to know who that person is?
Honda is digging themselves in deeper and deeper. i just did a search on brake issues on the NHTSA website....they are in some serious trouble with this stuff. i guess they know it since they have been instructed to not give out the name of the person ultimately responsible.
does anyone happen to have that info? if so, could you give it to me?
Does anyone know a good refurbisher? My wife came home on Friday with chipped up rim-she hit a curb, and wants me to replace it with a new one($180.00 ea.).
I live in Connecticut- so anyone from this here please direct me to a good wheel refurbisher.
I just brought home my accord v6 with navigation. I read that when you have it set in auto mode it will switch from day mode to night mode according to the driving lights being on or off. Currently I have the mode set in auto but the screen remains bright (like it is in day mode) regardless of if I have the lights on or off. Is something wrong with the system or do I just have something set wrong? Thanks
i think you have the instrument panel light control "knob" positioned all the way to the right. Try rotating it a little to the left-- then i think the navigation system will be "bright" during the day and "dim" during night.
i think that knob is right by the other knob that adjusts trip odometer setting.
I have just joined Edmunds.com officially and wanted to thank you folks for making it what it is. Originally I was looking to purchase a Kia Sorento... yeah, I know! All of the issues other drivers were experiencing with their Kia's appeared in the one my friend rented. So that was the end of that! Looking on the Accord threads I felt a little more comfortable with a Honda. So here I am, with a new (new for me!) 2003 Accord. I got it in March 04 with 12,000 Km's on it (7450 miles) and a new car smell still. It's a 5 speed 4 door base model I4 with a supped up stereo (two 15" JBL subs and Alpines in the doors/rear deck) plus a spoiler... that's it. Oh and I have just put in a two way Compustar alarm. Rims are next
Since March 04 I have driven to LA and back to Vancouver Canada (5,000 km's) once and seem to average about 1,000 km's per week (I work 15 min from my house and sit @ a desk all day long?!) so I can safely say I drive it a lot I love this car more and more each day, and now that I can drive a 5 spd it's all good. I must say I did not expect much from a I4 but the i-VETC has blown my socks off. Oh, and did I mention I fit?! lots of head room for a 6'-8" freak like me!
At the rate I am driving my warranty will expire in 10 weeks. So that brings me to the point of this long ramble...
I have a few issues with the car: -A sulpher smell **I have seen the posts and am not worried about it** (or should I be?!) -Squeaky front brakes while driving and braking (a little help on this one please! Is there a TSB on them?! They are making me nuts) -A/C that is not cold. **I can hear the compressor kick in when it's "ON" but no change in temp. There is coolant and it's the right pressure. I'm totally lost?! **
Please please help if you can. I hate dealing with shops and would like to do it myself if there is a quick fix. If not, at least I will know if they are pulling my chain :P
luvmyaccord5sp> I have a few issues with the car: luvmyaccord5sp> -A sulpher smell **I have seen the posts luvmyaccord5sp> and am not worried about it** (or should I be?!)
I don't know if this is your problem but here is a TSB that seems to address it.
TSB-03-091 Sulfur Smell in the Interior
SYMPTOM Sulfur smell in the interior (smells like rotten eggs.)
PROBABLE CAUSE Unsealed body seams are allowing a sulfur smell to enter the interior.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the catalytic converter, seal the body seams, and install flap seals:
2003 Accord V6-ALL Replace the catalytic converter only:
2003–04 Accord L4 - ALL (except vehicles equipped with Mass Air Flow Sensor).
2004 Accord V6 - ALL
luvmyaccord5sp> -Squeaky front brakes while driving and braking luvmyaccord5sp> (a little help on this one please! Is there a TSB luvmyaccord5sp> on them?! They are making me nuts)
Same goes for this one:
TSB-03-69
Front Brake Noise or Judder
SYMPTOM Front brake noise or judder while braking.
PROBABLE CAUSE The front brake pads have caused a variation in brake disc thickness.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Refinish the front brake discs, and install new front brake pads.
i have beige leather seats. i usually put a black leather messenger bag on the passenger seat. i am noticing the the passenger seat (none of the other seats) has some darker markings on the seat bottom (where your butt would sit). anyway, it MUST be from the black bag.
i have tried Eagle 1 leather cleaner - the stains wouldn't come off. anyone recommend anything else? i want to take the black leather stains off, without taking the stain out of the beige leather as well.
<<-A/C that is not cold. **I can hear the compressor kick in when it's "ON" but no change in temp. There is coolant and it's the right pressure. I'm totally lost?! **>>
Do you have AUTO mode on? If yes, turn it off and crank down the temperature settings and see if it's getting colder.
Musicboy, Those sound like them! I am just checking with the local shop and will get the work done. Thanks for the help and i'll post once all is well (cross'n my fingers here).
Chucko3, I have a standard A/C system with only ON/OFF +fan/temp control. but no luck with getting any cold outa the darn thing.
Dude, I'm so sorry but I had the same noise. I was told by dealer that I have a defective transmission and they replaced it. Now it does not shift smoothly like it used too. Probably you got the same thing.
I've had my 2004 Accord EX auto 4cyl for about two weeks now. I noticed fairly early on that when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa there is a metallic clank/click that sounds like it's coming from the transmission. It's not super loud, a thump, or a grinding sound really. It also occurs after about a half second after the shifter is in the particular gear position. Is this normal or should it pretty much be silent?
I have received conflicting information from two service shops on the minimum thickness spec for the front rotors on a 99 Accord EX-V6. Anyone have the limit? I have 70k miles on the car, and it's the first time I'm changing the pads (front only) I do mostly highway driving, and can't imagine, on the first set of pads my rotors are already below the service limit. Can someone look this up for me, or point me to the right place? Thanks very much!!!
So I have booked my 03 in for a service call this coming Tue. According to the shop the brakes and catalytic converter should be working ok (this is over the phone) but I have been told they are going to switch the air intake and charcoal canister (I guess there is a problem?). Haha this should be fun!
On a different note: Where can I find TSB's on the Accord? I would like to save time for everyone by looking for them myself.
There's a site called driveaccord which has all of the TSBs as Acrobat files. I used to rely on NHTSA until I found this site... much more complete information. I can't give you a direct link since, per the membership agreement, we can't link to forums on other automotive sites, but you'll find it easily if you google it.
Hi, I recently observed the same xact problem on my Honda Accrd EX 96 model, where the ABS light glows on continuously when I start the engine. The problem started last week, where the first few times when I started the engine, there was a cranking sound and now, ther is no sound but nly theabs light glwing whenever I satrt the car.
What are the reasons for this. The dealer said that they have to diagnoise the problem and it csts around $120 flr diagnostics. Any ideas, hints?
----- #7428 of 7634 95 accord ABS by kunk Apr 22, 2004 (1:17 pm) When I start my 95 accord up I hear a weird whiny/griding noise that I believe to be comming from the ABS unit. This noise continues for 30 secs. to a minute after starting my car. Then the ABS light goes on and the noise stops. Any Ideas?
Hi, I recently observed the same xact problem on my Honda Accrd EX 96 model, where the ABS light glows on continuously when I start the engine. The problem started last week, where the first few times when I started the engine, there was a cranking sound and now, ther is no sound but nly theabs light glwing whenever I satrt the car.
What are the reasons for this. The dealer said that they have to diagnoise the problem and it csts around $120 flr diagnostics. Any ideas, hints?
----- #7428 of 7634 95 accord ABS by kunk Apr 22, 2004 (1:17 pm) When I start my 95 accord up I hear a weird whiny/griding noise that I believe to be comming from the ABS unit. This noise continues for 30 secs. to a minute after starting my car. Then the ABS light goes on and the noise stops. Any Ideas?
Comments
Thanks,
Deborah
Now at 2200 miles, I can feel the brake pedal very slowly move forward about 1/2 inch when stopped at a light. Then the pedal will pressurize and push back against my foot. This goes back and forth until I take my foot off the brake.
The guy at the Honda dealer told me this may be considered normal as the engine is pulling on the booster and the booster is connected to the brake pedal.
I've spoken to other people and they say it's the master cylinder.
I'm taking another trip to the service dept. Thursday and I'd like to be a little more knowledgable on how to deal with the service dept.
Does anyone have any experience with American Honda? I called them about 3 weeks ago and got a phone call from the case manager yesterday and he was quite rude, condescending, and confrontational with me on the phone. Now, I'm having difficulty at the dealership with the General Manager not speaking with me and the American Honda case manager being a jerk.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Sometime I feel the same thing too on my 03EXV6, but it does not go back and forth.
Does anyone's transmission shift smoothly up and down.
Have you ever been told that you can not come on Saturdays to fix major problems?
Has a dealer ever tell you they can not fix rattles if its raining?
Does anyone else's seat move forward and then back again when braking hard? They told me that's normal.
One other interesting issue:
On the Honda website it states that the rear defroster has a timer.
Mine does not turn off until I turn it off or shut down the car.
Corp Honda guy said that my ACCORD EX V6 2004 does not have a timer on the rear defroster.
So do I or don't I?
Does anyone's defroster turn off after a certain amount of time? Please let me know because I think they are lying to me. I never herd of a car not having this.
Anyway Honda is horrible at costumer service. I don't know how they are considered great cars. And I will never ever buy another HONDA or Acura again.
Thanks for your responses!
Can anyone clarify? Also, is this an interference or non-interference engine?
Thanks!
--K9Leader
2000 Subaru Outback
1998 Toyota Sienna
1994 Lincoln Mark VIII
The noise is not real loud, but loud enough to be a bother. It's definitely not wind noise.
Does anyone have this problem?
Does anyone hear this sound when starting the car?
As to your rattles you might try cleaning out the trunk, and I mean everything thing especially the spare and jack and what ever else is not nailed down. empty out the glove compartment and center console and then go for a drive and see if the rattles go away. If so then its something you took out otherwise could be exhaust system or suspension.
I thought I had a rattle deep in the dashboard but it turned out to be the cover for the CD holder. When opened no rattle when closed the door rattled. I took a business card and wedged it between the side of the dash and the CD door and the rattle/buzz is gone. Hope this helped. I traded an AUDI A4 on the Accord with no regrets and 10 grand more in my pocket.
When I hear this sound, it takes longer (longer than it already is) to start the car.
Change brands if there's a perceived loss of engine performance. Worked long enough in the oil business to know that there are many variables affecting the final quality of pump gas.
In fact, good gas at one outlet may not be true the following week. Fuel retailers could have more than one wholesale vendor who, in turn, may buy from various refiners.
Between the MB refinery and the MB gas pump on Main St. are 3rd parties in the supply chain, namely the a) barge companies and b) overland carriers.
Inadvertent and deliberate fuel dilution could occur at any of the 2 stages, from improper container condition to kerosone spiking.
An MB convenience store would probably be under greater pressure to maintain its quality reputation, but its uncontrollables are of the same magnitude as the Walmart and Costco stores.
Thus the advice not to be brand- or location-loyal.
PS Additives are put in at the refinery holding tanks, which serve both MB and off-brand channels (single-quality inventory is more economical to the refiner).
They specifically mentioned or a caller mentioned Speedway which is a subsidiary of a major brand which has facilites in Ohio as having had a bad bunch of gas in the Louisville area.
Re additives: A manager at a department store gas station here told me that the additives dumped into each tanker for delivery were the same for regular and plus. He pulled out delivery sheets to see and the same additives had been added to the tankers at the origination tank farm. That implied to me that certain additives may be in the large storage tanks but specific additives are put in before transport to the local station.
The program is Car Guys on wkrc 550 Cincinnati. I believe it can be heard on the Web site early Saturday afternoons.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Honda is digging themselves in deeper and deeper. i just did a search on brake issues on the NHTSA website....they are in some serious trouble with this stuff. i guess they know it since they have been instructed to not give out the name of the person ultimately responsible.
does anyone happen to have that info? if so, could you give it to me?
Thanks!
My wife came home on Friday with chipped up rim-she hit a curb, and wants me to replace it with a new one($180.00 ea.).
I live in Connecticut- so anyone from this here please direct me to a good wheel refurbisher.
i think that knob is right by the other knob that adjusts trip odometer setting.
if i am wrong about all this, please correct.
I have just joined Edmunds.com officially and wanted to thank you folks for making it what it is. Originally I was looking to purchase a Kia Sorento... yeah, I know! All of the issues other drivers were experiencing with their Kia's appeared in the one my friend rented. So that was the end of that! Looking on the Accord threads I felt a little more comfortable with a Honda. So here I am, with a new (new for me!) 2003 Accord. I got it in March 04 with 12,000 Km's on it (7450 miles) and a new car smell still. It's a 5 speed 4 door base model I4 with a supped up stereo (two 15" JBL subs and Alpines in the doors/rear deck) plus a spoiler... that's it. Oh and I have just put in a two way Compustar alarm. Rims are next
Since March 04 I have driven to LA and back to Vancouver Canada (5,000 km's) once and seem to average about 1,000 km's per week (I work 15 min from my house and sit @ a desk all day long?!) so I can safely say I drive it a lot
At the rate I am driving my warranty will expire in 10 weeks. So that brings me to the point of this long ramble...
I have a few issues with the car:
-A sulpher smell **I have seen the posts and am not worried about it** (or should I be?!)
-Squeaky front brakes while driving and braking (a little help on this one please! Is there a TSB on them?! They are making me nuts)
-A/C that is not cold. **I can hear the compressor kick in when it's "ON" but no change in temp. There is coolant and it's the right pressure. I'm totally lost?! **
Please please help if you can. I hate dealing with shops and would like to do it myself if there is a quick fix. If not, at least I will know if they are pulling my chain :P
Many thanks for reading all this.
luvmyaccord5sp> -A sulpher smell **I have seen the posts
luvmyaccord5sp> and am not worried about it** (or should I be?!)
I don't know if this is your problem but here is a TSB that seems to address it.
TSB-03-091
Sulfur Smell in the Interior
SYMPTOM
Sulfur smell in the interior (smells like rotten eggs.)
PROBABLE CAUSE
Unsealed body seams are allowing a sulfur smell to
enter the interior.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the catalytic converter, seal the body seams,
and install flap seals:
2003 Accord V6-ALL
Replace the catalytic converter only:
2003–04 Accord L4 - ALL (except vehicles
equipped with Mass Air Flow Sensor).
2004 Accord V6 - ALL
luvmyaccord5sp> -Squeaky front brakes while driving and braking
luvmyaccord5sp> (a little help on this one please! Is there a TSB
luvmyaccord5sp> on them?! They are making me nuts)
Same goes for this one:
TSB-03-69
Front Brake Noise or Judder
SYMPTOM
Front brake noise or judder while braking.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The front brake pads have caused a variation in brake
disc thickness.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Refinish the front brake discs, and install new front
brake pads.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2003 Accord 2-door:
L4 – From VIN 1HGCM7...3A000001
thru 1HGCM7...3A027433
V6 (A/T only) – From VIN1HGCM8...3A000001
thru 1HGCM8...3A036251
2003 Accord 4-door:
L4
Ohio-built – From VIN 1HGCM5...3A000001
thru 1HGCM5...3A101162
Japan-built – From VIN JHMCM5...3C000001
thru JHMCM5...3C081070
Mexico-built (VIN begins with 3HG) – ALL
V6 – From VIN 1HGCM6...3A000001
thru 1HGCM6...3A101604
i have tried Eagle 1 leather cleaner - the stains wouldn't come off. anyone recommend anything else? i want to take the black leather stains off, without taking the stain out of the beige leather as well.
Thanks!
Do you have AUTO mode on? If yes, turn it off and crank down the temperature settings and see if it's getting colder.
Those sound like them! I am just checking with the local shop and will get the work done. Thanks for the help and i'll post once all is well (cross'n my fingers here).
Chucko3,
I have a standard A/C system with only ON/OFF +fan/temp control. but no luck with getting any cold outa the darn thing.
I'm so sorry but I had the same noise. I was told by dealer that I have a defective transmission and they replaced it. Now it does not shift smoothly like it used too. Probably you got the same thing.
Hopefully it's something the service dept can figure out and fix quickly.
I have 70k miles on the car, and it's the first time I'm changing the pads (front only) I do mostly highway driving, and can't imagine, on the first set of pads my rotors are already below the service limit. Can someone look this up for me, or point me to the right place? Thanks very much!!!
- Mike
On a different note: Where can I find TSB's on the Accord? I would like to save time for everyone by looking for them myself.
I recently observed the same xact problem on my Honda Accrd EX 96 model, where the ABS light glows on continuously when
I start the engine. The problem started last week, where the first few
times when I started the engine, there was a cranking sound and now,
ther is no sound but nly theabs light glwing whenever I satrt the car.
What are the reasons for this. The dealer said that they have to
diagnoise the problem and it csts around $120 flr diagnostics.
Any ideas, hints?
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#7428 of 7634 95 accord ABS by kunk Apr 22, 2004 (1:17 pm)
When I start my 95 accord up I hear a weird whiny/griding noise that I believe to be comming from the ABS unit. This noise continues for 30 secs. to a minute after starting my car. Then the ABS light goes on and the noise stops. Any Ideas?
I recently observed the same xact problem on my Honda Accrd EX 96 model, where the ABS light glows on continuously when
I start the engine. The problem started last week, where the first few
times when I started the engine, there was a cranking sound and now,
ther is no sound but nly theabs light glwing whenever I satrt the car.
What are the reasons for this. The dealer said that they have to
diagnoise the problem and it csts around $120 flr diagnostics.
Any ideas, hints?
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#7428 of 7634 95 accord ABS by kunk Apr 22, 2004 (1:17 pm)
When I start my 95 accord up I hear a weird whiny/griding noise that I believe to be comming from the ABS unit. This noise continues for 30 secs. to a minute after starting my car. Then the ABS light goes on and the noise stops. Any Ideas?