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Good Luck!
Will they update this in July 04 as well or are only specific vehicles affected (i.e. built at a specif location and not another)?
If you are able to see your Accord actually displaying a recall, please advise...thanks
Thanks, Greg
Bars Leak goes back to my childhood days (I'm 60), my dad used it all the time on his cars and it works great, but it is only a stop gap.
I guess you can tell by my handle that I'm a Mustang guy. I visit a Mustang chat site that offers radiators for all vehicles at a reduced prices by just mentioning "MustangSteve" when you call or e-mail the radiator supply house. I'll bet you you can get a replacment radiator through this guy for a lot less than $400, here's the link, just follow the instructions if you're interested:
http://www.mustangsteve.com/radiators.html
My favorite fuel adative is made by BG, it's a fuel injector cleaner and is the best that I've seen. You can but it at NAPA.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Thus far the only thing they've fixed is the vibration in the door. They say the seat shift is normal, even though other people who have this car don't have that happen. They either couldn't hear all of the headliner noises or they assume it's also 'normal.' I honestly think the dealer I'm going to is either lazy or likes to mislead/lie to appease me, rather than actually looking at possible solutions. Also, in the process of fixing the vibration in the door, they did something that makes the auto up/down driver's window not work. Once they resolve that, I'm going to take it to another dealer to sort out the other various issues from my previous post.
I took it to the dealer, and they fixed my sunroof rattle instead of other problems I had(lol...). Just goes to show you how many build quality issues this model has.
When you shift gears, you are supposted to depress the clutch!
Headliner was fixed with a new liner - problem over.
My A-pillar noise transcends all others. It's special but Honda has not given up yet.
B-pillar (ball bearing in a vibrating can - you know what I mean if you've heard it) - fixed. Witnessed just once in last 2 months.
C-pillar made noises over every bump in heat of day - fixed but returning.
The sources of vibration that cause these noises are not determined and fixed. Instead velour tape is applied to suspect areas. Time, temp and vibration may cause these to come back for brief periods.
It has been a long road. Dealer was OK but could not fix A-pillar noise. AH customer rep was a bad experience. Mediation and district representatives have been class acts and a pleasure to work with.
It's a wonderful car. Mine just has a problem.
If you are not a troll, you may want to explain your problem again. When I read your post it sounds like your shifting gears on a manual tranny without depressing the clutch pedal. If you are, You definitely will hear lots of noise until you destroy it.
anyone?
On a less serious note, I too have "that grinding noise" when shifting without the clutch down... can't figure it but i'm told it will stop soon enough
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
why not a VW Passat?
i think most people buy Honda/Toyota because they want a car that runs all the time. an extended warranty is great, and can save money if repairs are required, but again, the whole point of Honda is to NOT have to take the car in for repairs. it is a hassle. but, taking supposed reliability out of the equation, i feel cheated with the Accord. the compromise i made when i bought it now seems not worth it. coulda had a V8
i guess my bottom line point is, if Honda isn't going to be more reliable than a VW, i would simply buy a VW, and get the extra warranty, than pay a premium for a Honda, and have to buy a warranty as well.
and yes, the 2003 Accord interior is quite nice indeed!
I have never had any problems of any kind with either vehicle. There is no way I would ever even consider an extended warranty for a Honda (I also have a 2002 CRV-EX) that I buy new and maintain myself. IMHO, for every person that gets their money's worth from the extended warranty there are 20 others that never needed it and some, not all, of the ones that do need the warranty may not have maintained their vehicle as carefully as I do.
It is really a matter of what enables each owner to sleep well every night. Personally I have the utmost confidence that I will never need warranty work the first 100K but I can certainly understand someone else needing the warranty to feel secure.
Dodge Charger Turbo, which had a stainless steel
exhaust, the ticking lasted long enough that I missed it after it stopped.
In your posts #7817 and #7819 you indicated that you purchased a seven year extended warranty. That's all well and good. I personally have never considered such a product for a litany of reasons.
However, I'm puzzled by your post #7822 indication that you only intend to keep your Accord until it "is about five years old". That means you will have paid for a seven year extended warranty when you are only keeping the car for about five years. In reality, a seven year extended warranty is only a four year extension to the manufacturer's basic three year OEM warranty.
That means that you will be covered by your extended warranty for only two years if you trade in five years. Seems like a waste of money to me unless the product is not as reliable as the brand has always been.
1. It isn't blinking and it isn't on anymore. Regardless, I'm taking it in to have it checked out.
2. It's definately in the pillar on the drivers side. It only really occurs when it is cold and it seems to be a common problem that I've read about in here within several posts.
3. Yes, I noticed that when the system is set to recirculate the problem stops. I never really thought about it but it is only logical that if the system is open to ambient external conditions that some air will naturally flow.
I change oil pretty much the same as greg. I am analytical as to the type of driving and temperatures during since the last change and adjust changes intervals from 2500 to 3800 or so..
But whoever's getting the tradeins is getting only well-cared for motor. It should last hundreds of thousands of miles -- short of any design failure where oil changes won't help -- can you say Toyota oil hot spots?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks in advance.
-->it is not the fuse. the fuses (both for driver side and passenger side passive seatbelts) are both good. i even tried replacing it just in case.
-->it isn't the door pin. the beeping and flashing dash light stop when the door's open.
-->it is getting power. when i manually reset the position, it still automatically goes forward.
so yesterday, i just took out the fuse so that it doesn't move at all, and then reset it into the back (strapped in) position, just so that i will not get pulled over for supposedly not wearing a seatbelt. but the flashing dash light and the beeping alert are still constant, even with that fuse out. any suggestions on how to get the motor properly working again? or is there a better way to stop the beeping besides pulling its plug from behind the dash?
Also why does Honda use the old fashioned pull thing for a lock. It is in the exact position where my arm needs to go.???
Easy
Can anyone help us on this noise???
My'04 Accord replaced a superb 1991 Mazda Protegé DX that had that dumb, automatic seatbelt (so happy not to have that now!) Mazda sent a letter to me saying that the motorized belt could stick and guaranteed it for 12 years from date of purchase--the letter was sent about 5 years ago, so I had about 4 years to respond. The letter said to take the car to a Mazda dealer to have contact points cleaned.
My car's seat belt was sticking at times; however, I squirted some WD-40 into the door latch and that fixed the problem for a number of months. The contacts are in the door latching mechanism, not in the track that runs over the front door, so don't spray anything there.....Richard
my transmission makes no noise. when you press the brake pedal, you will ALWAYS hear a "click" noise. that is the transmission lock out feature disengaging. but it isn't actually "gear noise". and there is a minscule delay when shifting from park to R or D. my VW had a 2 second delay. it is to protect the tranny from "catching" the new gear selection while you are still moving in another direction. a lot of people reverse, then throw it in D while still moving backwards. the new tranny's kind of compensate for that with the delay.
that is what i was told anyway by VW.
Honda is about as bad as GM...