Just to echo what everyone else has said "Sell the Accord and get something else". Life is too short to deal with a flawed vehicle that is giving you lots of heartburn.
You can still chime in here and make sure that everyone knows how bad a car the Accord really is and abou the mass coverup that Honda is undertaking, heck I'll help you complain if you just do us all a favor and dump your Accord.
Good luck with whichever car you choose to buy in the future. I hope it serves you better than the Accord did.
LOL... well not quite for the fluid. Apparently the rubber hoses that Honda used to connect the washer pump to the reservoir breaks down if exposed to washer fluid (hahaha I know!). This only affected some of the early 03's (mine) and then they switched to a "windshield washer fluid safe" hoses.
I tend to agree on your statement about expectations. I was coming from a 1963 T-bird that during basic repair (changing a headlight) the front grill would crack! ha talk about metal fatigue!!! That is why I bought a Honda, so my expectations have been VERY high. I am disappointed by some of these problems but must remind myself that in the scheme of things the issues that are occurring are minor and to be expected. I am fine with my Accord problems (all TSB's) rather than some obscure issue due to ??!?!. At least this way I can have a quick fix and be done with it. In a perfect world my baby would run problem free forever!!
How many Honda shops have you had service your brakes? If its been only one, try another dealer. The first mechanic probably took too much for granted, possibly took some shortcuts and should have done a better job... multiple times. Your warranty is good at any authorized Honda dealer in the USA.
If all else fails, inkie's advice in Post #8146 makes the most sense. Since your profile indicates that you reside in Virginia, you should read what I found with a minimum of Google'ing here:
It says, in part, "If you have tried unsuccessfully to have your new vehicle (purchased in Virginia) repaired three or more times for the same problem, or the vehicle has been out of service for more than thirty days in one year, your vehicle may be classified as a lemon under the Virginia Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement Act."
The solution to the problem is simple. If you think that the quality of the product is poor, and you as a customer, are being treated in a second class fashion, trade the vehicle for something that you like better. Yes, the 6 cylinder Honda has a transmission problem, but Honda is doing something about the problem. Yes, SOME vehicles do have a brake problem, but again, Honda is doing something about the problem. What is the problem? Nothing in life is perfect. We placed a 7 year 100,000 mile extended warranty on our Honda vehicles, because we expect something to need service within that mileage. The extended warranty on the 2003 Accord was $875.00 and $975.00 on the 2004 Civic. That is cheap insurance against a transmission or engine failure. One warranty service on an Alternator, Starter, or A/C Compressor, and the warranty is paid for completely. Transmissions and / or engines can cost between $3,000 and $6,000 dollars. If you do not like the product sell it immediately. While I liked the 2000 Accord body style better than the 2003 Accord, I still think that the Honda is a high quality vehicle. The only other vehicle that I would consider owning would be a Chevrolet Impala. With the Honda you are way ahead on depreciation after 3 years of ownership.
Just before Christmas 2002 - I have major problem with my 1994 Accord LX dying in the middle of driving. After many trips to the dealership - it was this forum that gave the right answer - the ignitor was shot.
So I am back with a new problem. Every once and a while after driving the car (and if I remember correctly I may have been driving or 10 or so minutes) - I stop at the gas or store for 5 minutes. Engine is turned off. When I go to start it up - bingo won't turn over. Everything lights as normal on the instrument panel, but the engine won't turn over. Have had two batteries in the last year. Was at the dealership and said maybe it was the battery again - so their big test was to the start the engine. And of course it worked OK.
So I am kind of wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and may be knows what is wrong. Thanks!
PS Mileage is 125,000 km (about 60,000 miles for the Yanks out there).
"CAUTION - driving in the rain will cause brake damage. Your warranty is void if you encounter a puddle in the road or a carwash."
I don't think the manual says to roll your windows up in the rain or carwash either. But you know the car will be damaged if you don't.
It's amazin' how sophisticated some people can be about some things but totally in the dark about others. http://www.trustmymechanic.com/brakewarp.html Do a google for "warp rotor water". Enlighten thineself.
1.) Check all the "ground" connections on this vehicle to be sure that they are clean and tight. 2.) Check the condition of the battery cables. Make sure that the connections to the battery, starter and ground are clean and tight. Make sure that all the connections to both the starter and the alternator are clean and tight. 3.) Have the dealer perform a starter draw test. 4.) Check the output of the alternator. 5.)Check the condition of the battery. Batteries should last about three years. I would not trust a battery after that period of time.
Ask the dealer to check the main fuel relay. It took 2 dealers & a few trips for them to find a right solution for this type of problem for my wife's 92 Accord LX. Yeah, battery was the first thing they replaced.
The problem is not easy to duplicate. If you wait for 1/2 hr or more, the car would start again. Then that's it.
you don't want to read my posts about my complaints. i get that. i guess you are sick of them. yet on every single Honda board you just cut and paste the same message! "me and my wife got extended warranties...yadda yadda yadda" if i reply to that, will you stop?
congrats on your extended warranties! but why did you buy them on Honda vehicles? if you didn't get the newsflash, Honda doesn't make cars that have problems! i think you wasted your money.
anyway, my car passed inspection this morning. took it to the Honda dealer, i figure they would have to pass it, otherwise if it failed they would be admitting even more fault. whew! thats a load off at least.
I have an 03 Accord EX V6, and have had a couple of minor issues as well, but overall, all of them are minor. Considering how awesome the rest of the vehicle is, they seem trivial.
Concerning your thought of going to Toyota or Nissan for relief, Toyota is going through alot of engine sludge problems (which is probably the most serious and expensive problem you can have) and Nissan is having such horrible quality issues that they've flown hundreds of people from Japan to inspect their factories.
I'm sure that Honda is aware of many of the problems and will find a fix. They can't afford not to.
Why don't you like extended warranties? Does it annoy you that some of us can afford to purchase these items as part of the package? Explain your position on this subject!
Some people's (like me) resistance to E.W. may have principle, and not necessarily financial capability, behind it.
Didn't E.W.s apply, once upon a time, mostly to products with perceived inferiority and / or poor reliability ?
Something's not right when consumers start accepting E.W. as part of a purchase; it can become widespread enough to be the default way of doing business by both manufacturer and consumer.
When that happens, Honda would have joined the ranks of Chrysler/Ford/GM in terms of product quality.
As I, and perhaps Justin, would put it: why pay a premium for a Honda and pay some more for E.W. ?
Two years ago I helped my mom buy an 02 Accord LX with the 4cyc. engine. Among other things I was impressed with how smooth the 4 was even at idle with the AC on. Drove her car today and noticed it vibrating/shuttering at idle. Turned the AC off...no difference. Put it in neutral which helped a bit but still felt it. Believe it or not, the car only has 3400 miles. I thought Honda had solved that typical 4cyc. shutter. Otherwise, it drove beautifully. Any thoughts?
The car has low mileage but have you changed the air filter? When was the last time the oil was changed? Some maintenance items are time-based as well as mileage based.
Air filters deteriorate as they accumulate particulates. That's a mileage based process. You might look at the filter, but at that low mileage it's going to be like new.
Oil still has six thousand miles to go to reach Honda-recommendate first change at 10000 to allow proper breakin!!! Actually oil wouldn't cause a shudder either.
"Oil still has six thousand miles to go to reach Honda-recommendate first change at 10000 to allow proper breakin!!! Actually oil wouldn't cause a shudder either."
The oil should be changed before 2 years even if you haven't reached the mileage yet.
I also saw where this same car was in an accident within the last couple of weeks. Did the shudder start before or after that?
Hello, folks and thanks for the input. Defective motor mount sounds like a good place to start. Absolutely, positively did not vibrate @ idle when new, so I'm thinking something must be broken. BTW, according to my mom, it was doing it before the parking lot mishap. I'll take it in next week and see what the service department thinks; but, it is very nice to have some feedback from here before I go.
Brake fluid has been leaking from the ABS brake control module. I checked around with my flashlight and it looks that at the bottom of the module there are 4 allen-type hex nuts screwed up into the unit.
One of the nuts is rusty and leaking fluid. I'm assuming that the brake fluid has absorbed moisture and corroded the nut from the inside out.
It was taking about 2 months to lower the fluid level to set the ABS warning light on but now its leaking faster, about every 3 weeks I need to add fluid.
I checked the price of the module and it's well over $1,000 dollars. Anyone have any experience with this. Do you know if there might be one of those "hidden" recalls that Honda may be repairing "out of warranty" cars? Thanks for any info you might supply.
At times it's a combination of factors that produces rough idle. Some research brought up the following in the case of the gen6 Accord:
a) clogged/stuck EGR, PCV or Idle Air Control valves b) malfunctioning "engine mount control system," an active engine mount design that varies damping according to rpm c) dirty throttle body/sub-par ignition wires and plugs
a) and c) are unlikely because of the car's low mileage although ignition wires are known to prematurely degrade if the car is used sparingly (moisture builds up inside the wires).
I disconnected the SRS connector on the steering column so my daughter could drive it. She has a physical disability which makes her too short and too light to drive with an SRS system activated. When I re-connected the circuit, the light stayed on. The dealer wants $78 (Can.) to reset the light. I did this on our previous 99 Ford Taurus wagon without a problem, so I anticipated none with the Honda. I took the precaution of disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes before touching the circuit because I was told there was a capacitor in the circuit that would have to bleed down.
Is there a way to re-set the light without fattening the local Honda dealer's bank account?
When I inquired about the possibility of the dealer installing a switch to turn the SRS system on or off (a common feature in Ford 150 trucks for the passenger), the agent said they had never even had a such a request before and had no idea how they would do it or what the cost would be.
The agent also said I would need a PGM meter to reset the computer. What is this exactly and is it expensive?
I have a 2001 Accord Coupe. Has anybody had problems with the AC. My car only has 27K miles. I took the car to dealer because cool air was not working. They refilled the unit and could not find any leaks. Two months later it's just blowing hot air.
Hi. I'm new to the forum and picked up a brand-new '04 Accord EX V6 AT on Saturday, 8/28. I've noticed three things I'm concerned about: 1. After the car has been turned off and parked, when I engage 'D', either after reversing or directly, there is a slightly audible "bump" after about 1 - 1 1/2 seconds that is also felt through the gas pedal. It does not do this while in 'D' and starting back up from a stop. Do I have a problem with my transmission? 2. The car pulls very slightly to the right while driving, but enough that I need to maintain slight steering pressure to counter it. Tires are inflated properly. 3. The roof lining has come unattached at the top of the rear window - looks bad.
Thank you in advance for any input. I am not a "technical car person" and really appreciate your comments and advice.
not sure about the drift - some Accords seem to have that problem per the numerous internet sites.
the rear headliner, i believe, has a TSB out for a "fix". can't tell you where to get it on the web due to Edmunds rules and regs, but your dealer probably knows about it. i saw it once, seemed like a simple and permanent fix.
but again, the noise/feeling when you first start off in D is the ABS 99% sure. you will also feel a crunch/thud when taking the car from P to R or D from time to time. that is a normal Accord transmission characteristic. don't be too concerned.
I have none of the problems you are describing but other members have...
1) That thud has been mentioned by other members in these posts, so your best bet is to use the search feature. That should help. It seems to be a "Honda trait" from my understanding... that said I drive a 5 speed so i dunno 2) New cars should track properly. There are differing opinions over how accurate a new car should be, but generally dead on is what most people expect. Back to the dealership you go! 3) The lining on the roof seems to be a big issue with the 7th gen Accords! Mine is making noise, others have said theirs separated near the doors/rear window. Again, back to the dealer you go!
I find that most issues that will arise in your new car should be mentioned in these threads here @ Edmunds. Spend some time reading through them... it's worth the time. All and all you should enjoy your new car for many years to come with only minor issues. It is always nice to know what to expect tho, so read read read
1. I don't think it's the tranny. It's the ABS self-testing. Try this to see if you still hear the bump: pump your brake pedal a few times before shifting the car out of Park. If I do this, I don't hear the bump. 2. Bring the car back to the dealer and ask them to check the alignment. You may want to wait for the tires to break in too. 3. Tell the dealer to fix it. It's a brand new car.
I think the noise is the ABS self-check, as others have mentioned.
As to the roof lining TSB, it basically involves re-gluing the 2 clip holders back to the headliner--the original glue does not hold very well. The TSB says to (1) make sure that the clip holder opening is oriented toward the front of the vehicle; (2) use fine sandpaper to roughen the headliner and wipe off the dust with a damp rag; (3) glue the clip back to the headliner using either JB Kwik Weld (P/N 8276) or Devcon High Strength Plastic Welder (P/N S-220). You will want to have something to put pressure on it for a couple hours.
I reglued the clips at the back of the sunroof opening on my car. There were 3 clips there and I used coat hangers between the headliner and the seats to hold it.
When I was in to the dealer for my last oil change, I asked if there was any difference between the 4 and 6 cylinder automatic transmissions. The dealer service rep said they were totally different transmissions. I am wondering if anyone knows if what the dealer told me is correct.
One thought I had was that if they were the same, I might try to negotiate having the recall modification made to my 4 cyl, perhaps paying a portion of the cost. That might be better than dealing with a major failure later, even if it is covered under warranty.
I think the answer should be "it depends". If you do some research you will find that Honda recommends different viscosities in different countries for the same engine. I am in the minority with my opinion but I believe the oil you should use depends on your personal driving habits, the climate in which you live, and your oil change intervals. A used oil analysis will let you know if your oil is performing properly for your engine based upon the factors above.
Although the US manuals indicate 5W-20 you will find many dealers using 5W-30 or even 10W-30 if you let them change your oil for you. I am not worried about an oil related failure in my engine since I do a periodic used oil analysis. However, I certainly understand following the manual to the letter, buying extended warranties, etc. for peace of mind.
The manual says to use 5W-20 dino oil with 5,000 mile oil changes under severe conditions and 10,000 miles under normal conditions and to only replace your oil filter every other oil change. I drive 4-6 trips a day less than 4 miles in temperatures over 90 degrees several months of the year..... used oil analysis indicates that for my car 4-5,000 miles in the summer with 5W-30 or 10W-30 is better than 5W-20. There is no way I am going to change my oil without changing my filter.......period.
Under severe conditions.. my manual says to change my manual transmission fluid after 60,000 miles and then every 30,000 miles thereafter. I will definitely change mine at 30,000 the first time. Under normal conditions the recommended interval is 120,000 for either manual or automatic transmission. If I was concerned about Honda automatic transmission failures I sure would not go this long without changing under any circumstances.
The manual recommends changing engine coolant at 120,000 and then every 60,000 miles. I will opt for changing at 60,000 the first time around.
The manual recommends changing spark plugs at 110,000 miles. I will go with 55,000 miles just to make sure I can get them out.
These things are easy to do, inexpensive, and are preventive in nature. That is what gives me peace of mind. Everyone is different and each vehicle is different .... do what you are comfortable with and whatever gives you peace of mind.
The owner's manual says my '04 Accord EX-L 4 cyl. should use 5-20 oil. The Honda dealer said the same and that's what they said they used for the car's first oil change a few days ago.
Honda built and tested the engine and knows better than anybody else what oil is best suited for it. I cannot understand why people insist on deviating from what the manufacturer recommends. I would like to see the testing equipment owned by those who use 10-30 oil when 5-20 is called for.
In any case, using a different viscosity oil is unlikely to cause early engine damage--maybe the engine will show greater wear after driven many thousands of miles--nor to have any effect on how the car runs except for the psychological distress that comes with suspecting that the wrong stuff is circulating in your engine......Richard
5w30 oil is pourable @ -20 C temperatures... my engine is never below 20 degrees Celsius. As for the higher end temperatures, 30 weight covers me totally. Yes I may only need 20 weight as per Honda, but they also chose such a light weight oil to improve on fuel economy. If people choose 5w20 then yes they are meeting Honda spec, but if they go with a heavier oil (because they live in a hotter climate or drive hard) then they should be fine too. With today's engines you would be hard pressed to find an oil related disaster... well maybe if you used 20w50 in Alaska
To quote:
"Multiviscosity oils, such as “20W–50,” must satisfy both the low temperature cranking and pumping test for the grade indicated first, and the 100°C test for the second grade. Such an oil would also pass the tests for all the grades in between"
ps. I'm not advocating using a different oil than Honda recommends... they are the pro's after all! But it is not just back or white.
Everyone seems to forget that the EX V6 is equipped with traction control and 4 cylinder models are not. The bump and crunching noises you hear and feel in the gas pedal is the traction control system doing a self check. All of the car's systems are functioning normally. This is why people think the V6 model has transmission problems. The 4 and 6 use the same transmission. Gear ratios are changed to match engine performance and V6 models are controlled by the drive-by-wire system.
While it's become widely accepted that the ABS self-check causes that scratchy sensation, I'm convinced it's the TCS because my wife's 03 EX-L doesn't do it while my 03 V6 does. You're also right that only the V6 has electronic throttle.
My son in Winnipeg just called to say his brand new 04 Honda appears to have a squirrel or some critter eating the under hood insulation pad/firewall material for lunch ! About 8-9" diameter is gone on hood padding and firewall material has a similar piece gone. I don't see another posting with this problem. His parking lot is near a park but no one else is having this happen. Did Honda develop a new adhesive or something which attracts animals ? Any other owner have this happen ? The wiring is untouched so far, that's the good news. Comments please !! - Waterloo Dad
Comments
You can still chime in here and make sure that everyone knows how bad a car the Accord really is and abou the mass coverup that Honda is undertaking, heck I'll help you complain if you just do us all a favor and dump your Accord.
Good luck with whichever car you choose to buy in the future. I hope it serves you better than the Accord did.
LOL... well not quite for the fluid. Apparently the rubber hoses that Honda used to connect the washer pump to the reservoir breaks down if exposed to washer fluid (hahaha I know!). This only affected some of the early 03's (mine) and then they switched to a "windshield washer fluid safe" hoses.
I tend to agree on your statement about expectations. I was coming from a 1963 T-bird that during basic repair (changing a headlight) the front grill would crack! ha talk about metal fatigue!!! That is why I bought a Honda, so my expectations have been VERY high. I am disappointed by some of these problems but must remind myself that in the scheme of things the issues that are occurring are minor and to be expected. I am fine with my Accord problems (all TSB's) rather than some obscure issue due to ??!?!. At least this way I can have a quick fix and be done with it. In a perfect world my baby would run problem free forever!!
If all else fails, inkie's advice in Post #8146 makes the most sense. Since your profile indicates that you reside in Virginia, you should read what I found with a minimum of Google'ing here:
http://www.dmv.state.va.us/webdoc/citizen/vehicles/lemonlaw.asp
It says, in part, "If you have tried unsuccessfully to have your new vehicle (purchased in Virginia) repaired three or more times for the same problem, or the vehicle has been out of service for more than thirty days in one year, your vehicle may be classified as a lemon under the Virginia Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement Act."
So I am back with a new problem. Every once and a while after driving the car (and if I remember correctly I may have been driving or 10 or so minutes) - I stop at the gas or store for 5 minutes. Engine is turned off. When I go to start it up - bingo won't turn over. Everything lights as normal on the instrument panel, but the engine won't turn over. Have had two batteries in the last year. Was at the dealership and said maybe it was the battery again - so their big test was to the start the engine. And of course it worked OK.
So I am kind of wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and may be knows what is wrong. Thanks!
PS Mileage is 125,000 km (about 60,000 miles for the Yanks out there).
I don't think the manual says to roll your windows up in the rain or carwash either. But you know the car will be damaged if you don't.
It's amazin' how sophisticated some people can be about some things but totally in the dark about others.
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/brakewarp.html
Do a google for "warp rotor water". Enlighten thineself.
The problem is not easy to duplicate. If you wait for 1/2 hr or more, the car would start again. Then that's it.
you don't want to read my posts about my complaints. i get that. i guess you are sick of them. yet on every single Honda board you just cut and paste the same message! "me and my wife got extended warranties...yadda yadda yadda" if i reply to that, will you stop?
congrats on your extended warranties! but why did you buy them on Honda vehicles? if you didn't get the newsflash, Honda doesn't make cars that have problems! i think you wasted your money.
anyway, my car passed inspection this morning. took it to the Honda dealer, i figure they would have to pass it, otherwise if it failed they would be admitting even more fault. whew! thats a load off at least.
I have an 03 Accord EX V6, and have had a couple of minor issues as well, but overall, all of them are minor. Considering how awesome the rest of the vehicle is, they seem trivial.
Concerning your thought of going to Toyota or Nissan for relief, Toyota is going through alot of engine sludge problems (which is probably the most serious and expensive problem you can have) and Nissan is having such horrible quality issues that they've flown hundreds of people from Japan to inspect their factories.
I'm sure that Honda is aware of many of the problems and will find a fix. They can't afford not to.
Didn't E.W.s apply, once upon a time, mostly to products with perceived inferiority and / or poor reliability ?
Something's not right when consumers start accepting E.W. as part of a purchase; it can become widespread enough to be the default way of doing business by both manufacturer and consumer.
When that happens, Honda would have joined the ranks of Chrysler/Ford/GM in terms of product quality.
As I, and perhaps Justin, would put it: why pay a premium for a Honda and pay some more for E.W. ?
Oil still has six thousand miles to go to reach Honda-recommendate first change at 10000 to allow proper breakin!!! Actually oil wouldn't cause a shudder either.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Please go there to discuss the pros/cons of EW.
The oil should be changed before 2 years even if you haven't reached the mileage yet.
I also saw where this same car was in an accident within the last couple of weeks. Did the shudder start before or after that?
Brake fluid has been leaking from the ABS brake control module. I checked around with my flashlight and it looks that at the bottom of the module there are 4 allen-type hex nuts screwed up into the unit.
One of the nuts is rusty and leaking fluid. I'm assuming that the brake fluid has absorbed moisture and corroded the nut from the inside out.
It was taking about 2 months to lower the fluid level to set the ABS warning light on but now its leaking faster, about every 3 weeks I need to add fluid.
I checked the price of the module and it's well over $1,000 dollars. Anyone have any experience with this. Do you know if there might be one of those "hidden" recalls that Honda may be repairing "out of warranty" cars? Thanks for any info you might supply.
a) clogged/stuck EGR, PCV or Idle Air Control valves
b) malfunctioning "engine mount control system," an active engine mount design that varies damping according to rpm
c) dirty throttle body/sub-par ignition wires and plugs
a) and c) are unlikely because of the car's low mileage although ignition wires are known to prematurely degrade if the car is used sparingly (moisture builds up inside the wires).
Hope this helps.
Is there a way to re-set the light without fattening the local Honda dealer's bank account?
When I inquired about the possibility of the dealer installing a switch to turn the SRS system on or off (a common feature in Ford 150 trucks for the passenger), the agent said they had never even had a such a request before and had no idea how they would do it or what the cost would be.
The agent also said I would need a PGM meter to reset the computer. What is this exactly and is it expensive?
Thanks,
Hrothgar.
1. After the car has been turned off and parked, when I engage 'D', either after reversing or directly, there is a slightly audible "bump" after about 1 - 1 1/2 seconds that is also felt through the gas pedal. It does not do this while in 'D' and starting back up from a stop. Do I have a problem with my transmission?
2. The car pulls very slightly to the right while driving, but enough that I need to maintain slight steering pressure to counter it. Tires are inflated properly.
3. The roof lining has come unattached at the top of the rear window - looks bad.
Thank you in advance for any input. I am not a "technical car person" and really appreciate your comments and advice.
not sure about the drift - some Accords seem to have that problem per the numerous internet sites.
the rear headliner, i believe, has a TSB out for a "fix". can't tell you where to get it on the web due to Edmunds rules and regs, but your dealer probably knows about it. i saw it once, seemed like a simple and permanent fix.
but again, the noise/feeling when you first start off in D is the ABS 99% sure. you will also feel a crunch/thud when taking the car from P to R or D from time to time. that is a normal Accord transmission characteristic. don't be too concerned.
1) That thud has been mentioned by other members in these posts, so your best bet is to use the search feature. That should help. It seems to be a "Honda trait" from my understanding... that said I drive a 5 speed so i dunno
2) New cars should track properly. There are differing opinions over how accurate a new car should be, but generally dead on is what most people expect. Back to the dealership you go!
3) The lining on the roof seems to be a big issue with the 7th gen Accords! Mine is making noise, others have said theirs separated near the doors/rear window. Again, back to the dealer you go!
I find that most issues that will arise in your new car should be mentioned in these threads here @ Edmunds. Spend some time reading through them... it's worth the time. All and all you should enjoy your new car for many years to come with only minor issues. It is always nice to know what to expect tho, so read read read
-D
is 5w30 ok? thanks.
2. Bring the car back to the dealer and ask them to check the alignment. You may want to wait for the tires to break in too.
3. Tell the dealer to fix it. It's a brand new car.
As to the roof lining TSB, it basically involves re-gluing the 2 clip holders back to the headliner--the original glue does not hold very well. The TSB says to (1) make sure that the clip holder opening is oriented toward the front of the vehicle; (2) use fine sandpaper to roughen the headliner and wipe off the dust with a damp rag; (3) glue the clip back to the headliner using either JB Kwik Weld (P/N 8276) or Devcon High Strength Plastic Welder (P/N S-220). You will want to have something to put pressure on it for a couple hours.
I reglued the clips at the back of the sunroof opening on my car. There were 3 clips there and I used coat hangers between the headliner and the seats to hold it.
Why would you NOT follow the manufacturer's oil recommendation? Of course you should use 5W20 oil if it is specified for your year and model vehicle.
One thought I had was that if they were the same, I might try to negotiate having the recall modification made to my 4 cyl, perhaps paying a portion of the cost. That might be better than dealing with a major failure later, even if it is covered under warranty.
Although the US manuals indicate 5W-20 you will find many dealers using 5W-30 or even 10W-30 if you let them change your oil for you. I am not worried about an oil related failure in my engine since I do a periodic used oil analysis. However, I certainly understand following the manual to the letter, buying extended warranties, etc. for peace of mind.
The manual says to use 5W-20 dino oil with 5,000 mile oil changes under severe conditions and 10,000 miles under normal conditions and to only replace your oil filter every other oil change. I drive 4-6 trips a day less than 4 miles in temperatures over 90 degrees several months of the year..... used oil analysis indicates that for my car 4-5,000 miles in the summer with 5W-30 or 10W-30 is better than 5W-20. There is no way I am going to change my oil without changing my filter.......period.
Under severe conditions..
my manual says to change my manual transmission fluid after 60,000 miles and then every 30,000 miles thereafter. I will definitely change mine at 30,000 the first time. Under normal conditions the recommended interval is 120,000 for either manual or automatic transmission. If I was concerned about Honda automatic transmission failures I sure would not go this long without changing under any circumstances.
The manual recommends changing engine coolant at 120,000 and then every 60,000 miles. I will opt for changing at 60,000 the first time around.
The manual recommends changing spark plugs at 110,000 miles. I will go with 55,000 miles just to make sure I can get them out.
These things are easy to do, inexpensive, and are preventive in nature. That is what gives me peace of mind. Everyone is different and each vehicle is different .... do what you are comfortable with and whatever gives you peace of mind.
However, I still maintain that "IT DEPENDS."
I am currently using 5w30 Mobile 1 100% Synthetic... but it depends on where you live and what season.
There is a oil tread too on Edmunds if you want to do tons of research
Honda built and tested the engine and knows better than anybody else what oil is best suited for it. I cannot understand why people insist on deviating from what the manufacturer recommends. I would like to see the testing equipment owned by those who use 10-30 oil when 5-20 is called for.
In any case, using a different viscosity oil is unlikely to cause early engine damage--maybe the engine will show greater wear after driven many thousands of miles--nor to have any effect on how the car runs except for the psychological distress that comes with suspecting that the wrong stuff is circulating in your engine......Richard
To quote:
"Multiviscosity oils, such as “20W–50,” must satisfy both the low temperature cranking and pumping test for the grade indicated first, and the 100°C test for the second grade. Such an oil would also pass the tests for all the grades in between"
ps. I'm not advocating using a different oil than Honda recommends... they are the pro's after all! But it is not just back or white.