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Comments
I don't know if this will fix your problem, but its a start.
And if you are applying the accelerator during automatic gear selection, that is the incorrect way to drive the car.
ETA:Caught your post below Justin. We have got to stop agreeing like this.
a delay when shifting from Park to Reverse or Reverse to Drive or Park to Drive IS normal. all automatics do it lately. makes things easier on the car. the key is to not floor it until the right gear engages. if you are having the tach needle fly up between gear changes, it can only be because you are pressing the gas, right? not being rude here, but why are you pressing the gas at the same time your foot is on the brake to shift the automatic gear shift or while you are waiting for the gear to engage? just don't press the go pedal until the car is in gear. a second or two delay seems about right for my Accord. but also for all my automatics since 1999. (VW, Civic, and BMW 325Ci).
edscissors:
no special break-in period needed on most new cars. you can hold off on panic braking for a few hundred miles, might help brakes start off on the right foot. important on a Honda
My feelings are mixed. I'm glad they're helping out a bit, but the transmission should not have failed so soon. If I buy another Honda/Acura in the future, it'll be a stick.
I have not found any PERMANENT fix for it (**if anyone has one, I would LOVE to hear it**), but cleaning the seals with silicone spray and paper towels works for a while--a month or two.
Hope you're situation is better, but if you have the same symptoms as above, get it looked at by a different mechanic. What may work for you (worked for me) is to take it to an independent Honda specialist. They diagnosed my problem correctly.
I think you missed the point. Yes my foot is on the brake when shifting. No I don't bring up RPM's I just used that as an example. I agree that a 1-1.5 second delay is normal but when you get over 2 seconds sometimes 3-3.5 seconds thats not normal. Also not to be rude but it's not like I just started driving...I've only be doing this for 30 years.
Thanks for your input.
That doesn't happen with your foot on the brake. If your RPM's run up with your foot on the brake, you have other issues than your transmission. I don't understand what that could be an "example" of.
Most of my driving is city with a little bit of occasional highway. I live in S. Fla. so I do have to deal with heat & humidity (and hurricanes). Is there a problem with my car? Is there something special I need to do?
Any help is appreciated.
Has anyone replaced tge FM antenna embedded in the rear windshield with a metal whip antenna outside the car? Difficult? Caused any problems?
I have a 2002 Accord SE 4cyl. automatic. Does anyone know a resource that will tell me the manufacturers or other party's stated 0-60 time for this vehicle? I'm guessing it's between 8-11 seconds on paper?
according2me Jan 17, 2004 2:17pm
I'm currently at 129K+ miles with this replacement and so far so good.
This has been a very well documented issue with all years of the 6th Gen. It will only get uglier as time passes and miles are accumulated.
I'm glad to see that Honda is trying to be proactive with the 7th Gen autotrans issues.
according2me
Hopefully I'll have the same luck with the new one. Eventually, I would like to give it to my daughter when she's old enough to drive in a few years (and give me a reason to get something sportier).
It's good they're being proactive on the newer ones, the 6th gen ones have definitely given them a black eye. Many of my friends are astonished when I mentioned that my Honda transmission failed.
Dealer service mgr says this is normal.
However, I just received a safety recall for 03/04 Accord V6 auto Second Gear inspection. Perhaps you have also received from Honda Corp. Appears that their fix is a oil-jet kit to install in some cases and in others, replace the trans. I need to do more research on that. Sounds like this was a newly designed trans?
By the way, how are your front brakes holding up? I have an '03 V6 with 30k miles and have a lot of shuddering and vibration over 50mph.
I know there is a TSB repair bulletin #069 for the brake shudder but my car was at the dealer three times already. I am now fighting to have the front rotors replaced. Probably will need to open a dispute case up with a Case Managaer at Honda factory.
My first brand new car after 16 years of driving junk and this is my reward. Ugh.
This could explain the repeat rotor problems in some Hondas.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I also bought a 2003 Accord V6 Coupe for my son and am going to buy an Accord hybrid soon even though my son's Accord coupe had to go back to dealer to have an oil kit installed for the transmission.
Ok, the car was a year old this september. And a problem has come up again at the same time of the year. The intermittant hard start. Takes 3/4 times to start the car on occasion. Only starts after I press the gas pedal and release or start with it 1/2 way down as explained in the owners manual. All other times its normal.
Every morning when I let the handbrake off and put the car in reverse to back slowly out the driveway, with my foot lightly on the brake since the rpms are at about 1400 on a cold engine, I was getting a rattling, metallic sound, as if something were loose and about to fall off. It stopped immediately when I put it in Drive, though there was a slight residual noise for a moment or two. At the end of the day, leaving work, same scenario -- backing out of the parking space, a big rattle, then nothing.
Here's what they wrote on the work order:
"Bolt loose at bracket hanger by H frame. Tighten bolts."
There is one major difference with my car from yours -- they installed a replacement transmission at about 4700 miles because of a persistent whining noise. I've now got about 7200 miles on the car.
What they did seems to have solved the problem -- I've only had it back a few days, but so far, so good.
This may have nothing to do with your situation, but who knows?
By the way -- Is anyone knowledgable enough to tell me if this H frame bracket hanger has anything to do with the transmission, and whether or not it could have related to the installation of the replacement transmission?
Thanks.
quite honestly, the Accord might be gone this week. not 100%, so if i keep it, i will worry about brakes next week
Would it be possible for you to explain how your dealer lubed the door seal or give me the name and number of your dealer? I will have my Honda dealer contact them. I can't stand the rattling anymore and want this fixed pronto.
Thanks.
1. Does the rattling occur when the windows are shut or when partly open?
2. Does the noise seem to occur only when going over rough or broken pavement or does it also occur on very smooth roads?
3. Is it a ticking-type sound or is there another way you can describe it?
4. Did you try silicone spray on all the door and window seals or just some? I open the windows and do the window seals as well as both sets of door seals.
In the post I mentioned the door/window seals, the noise I was describing was a light ticking sound that seemed to come from the top of the door. It seemed to occur regardless of the type of pavement I was on and was almost always with the windows completely shut. It would come and go--sometimes I would hear it regularly and then other times I would go a week or so without hearing it. Sometimes if I put the windows down ever so slightly (just tap the window button), it would stop.
When the dealer (I think it was Indy Honda -- Indianapolis, IN) did this, the receipt said "lubed door and window seals". They put some sort of clear gel on the seals that reminded me of Vaseline--I don't know what exactly it was. Someone had once mentioned silicone to me and that's when I started trying silicone spray with some success.
I also had another noise when the windows are down a few inches. There was a metallic rattling sometimes when going over rough pavement. My regular dealer replaced one of the window regulators and that helped this noise--I still occasionally get a little bit of this noise from the other windows, but the noisiest one was fixed.
If your noise seems to be coming more from the center or lower portion of the door, it could be something with the door panel or window control switches. Or something within the door might be making the noise.
Another idea--are you sure it is from the door and not the B-pillar area (between the doors). I had a rattle from the passenger side upper seat belt anchor. I took apart the B-pillar and put felt tape between the pillar trim and the seat belt anchor to stop that noise.
I hope one of these helps you. I had several rattles first appear at about 11k miles and they were very annoying. Nearly all have been resolved, but a couple noises still occasionally show up. But I have ridden in a couple other cars lately (2000 Dodge Intrepid, 2002 Jaguar X-type for instance, or any GM rental car) that made me realize that it could be much worse. Of course, I learned my lesson and will never buy a first-year car again (not even from Honda)--I will wait a couple years for the bugs (and rattles) to be worked out. Good luck.
We took our car into the dealer to have them look at the clutch as well and they also told us it was fine. Then I insisted that the car is not fine and there is a problem--after which they said "well, when we first got the manual V6 in, our service guys tried driving it and had the same problem". I think Honda is reluctant to fix an obvious widespread problem.
1990-95 4-Cylinder Accord and 1992-95 Prelude
Except Prelude VTEC models:
Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it.
Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt.
Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end.
Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures.
Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts.
Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.