Edmunds Host, how about posting exvl01's problem in a new subject? I think the dealer is trying to avoid doing the right thing for him, and someone who is familiar with what dealer's are obligated to do should see this and respond. They are more likely to see it if posted somewhere else.
Seems to me that if the car has few miles on it and was sold less than a week ago, they are legally obligated to switch out to another unit. Surely the title paperwork isn't done yet. We need someone with some knowledge about such things. If it were me, I'd settle for no less that a replacement.
I think he has to wait and see what the dealer will do. I could very well see where a re-alignment of the door and sunroof will take care of everything. New cars that are seriously damaged in shipment are immediately written off, they are not repaired...only very minor damage is repaired. A dealer would be insane to try and pawn off a car that was in a collision, it is not likely.
However, if doubts persist, the buyer could hire an appraiser/inspector and an attorney...it really is up to the buyer to prove the contention that the car is structurally damaged I'm afraid. No one is going to replace a car with a cranky door. It's just not a realistic expectation. Either the buyer has to allow the dealer to "make it right", or if it can't be made right, then pursue the legal path for the particular lemon laws in his state...which have strict requirements that must be met for a buy-back.
Domestic manufacturers use $1,000 as the limit for repairs due to transit damage, etc. Any more and they're scrapped or donated to institutions such as the one where I work. They then get to write off the full retail price of the vehicle as an educational donation. Not sure about imports' policies, though.
Hi, yesterday I allowed my 2 year old daughter to sit in the driver seat. Today I noticed that power door locks don't work. Also, I can not use power windows to open or close right side windows from the driver's master switch board. I can use it to roll left side windows. I checked fuses, but everything looks fine. Just in case I checked any loose wire on both front seats, found nothing. It did work before without any problems. Car is Accord 98, 40k miles. Do you have any ideas? Is there any "magic buttons"? Thank you.
That's a good idea to hired an appraiser/inspector to look at it. Thanks Jr_Shift right.
BOW, Honda still has not contacted me as they said they will by yesterday (Monday)afternoon. I will be very patient and hoping that this is a good sign and give Honda one more day; will call Honda if they didn't give me a ring by late tomorrow (Wednesday) afternoon.
Again, thanks for the continuing support from this forum. It really feels good to read all this responds. Even when some of the comments are against you wishes; it gives you a different prospective and be more compassionate to the dealership EVEN WE HATE THEM most of the time when things aren't going right or perfect for us!!
oh... Did I mention that the rear passenger door across the driver side is way too lose and way to easy to close? It is like slamming against the door if you slightly push it; the front passenger is fine. The rear passenger behind the driver feels a little like the driver's door but not as bad; acceptable or fine. That's what makes me worry (or start imagine) about the structure of the car. Hope I am just worrying too much and my imagination for the worst. Thanks!!
I guess you know there are 3 fuse panels. Sure sounds like one or more fuses to me. Was the igniton on so that these accessories were energized? If not, then I can't see how your daughter could have done anything to cause this. Do the power door locks work from the passenger side control switch? Do the windows work with their respective control switches? A little more digging may be needed to find this gremlin. Good luck.
I will have to check on how to do a reset on the multiplex system as I forget. I havent had to do it for a while so I forgot. I know it has something to do with the wiper position and a fuse but not sure what. I will write back as soon as I remember or if all else fails I will find out tomorrow.
Ok, first take and put the intermittant wiper switch on the lowest setting(what would be the longest wiper delay setting). Then either pull the back up fuse (7.5) from the under hood fuse panel or to be sure you have the right fuse, disconnect the battery for 15 secounds.Then reconnect/insatll fuse and turn the key to the on position,turn off the wipers and now try all the power items. If this was the problem then they all should be ok.I know it sounds weird but it does happen and the reset does work... Note: you probably will have to reset your radio code if you have an anti-theft radio..
If I had a new car with driver door, roof/sunroof, and rear passenger door 'problems', I would start thinking the car has been hit.
I think you should take the car to the best body shop in town, and see it they will look at the car and give a written statement, if they can tell there has been any significant body work done. You may have to pay for this. But if you can't get their opinion in writing, this is useless.
A good body man can quickly tell if there has been any painting done. He can tell it the car has been hit.
Are you sure the sunroof is factory installation? If it was done by the dealer or someone he gave the car to, all the damage to the roof could be caused by inept installation of an after-market sunroof. Look at the window sticker. If the sunroof is an add-on, not factory, this could be the sourceof the problems.
Sending a new car out for after-market sunroof installation might also be the cause of the problems with the doors. Someone 'leaning' on the open door, especially a fat boy getting to the roof to cut holes, install parts, etc could pull it out of alignment.
I have a question regarding a 1995 Accord EX (VTEC). It's my gf's car and the engine is getting noisier lately (over a long period of time), not that it ever was very quiet ... It sounds like a sweing machine, to me, it sounds like there is too much lash for the lifters. Now I thought the Accord has mechanic and not hydraulic lifters, so they need to be adjusted. I went to the dealer and told him to adjust the lifter lash and they told me there is nothing to adjust, it is self adjusting. Who is wrong and can I adjust the lash myself (if there is anything to adjust)? Thanks a lot!
My neighbor just got his new Accord and something very strange has started happening. His key less remote operates his garage door opener too! Not only that, now MY garage remote operates HIS door I checked, and we are not using the same code (and we have been neighbors for two years and never had this happened before). A rep from Honda came out and checked the car and opener, reset the codes on the opener several times, and my remote still operates his door! I think these are not rolling code garage door openers Stanley 7105. I checked the FCC IDs on the transmitters at the FCC web site and sure enough they are both on the same frequency. But why aren't the codes doing their job? And how could the car have started all this? Has anyone ever seen this before?
MORON! The guy just bought a new car and discovered it was damaged. He is upset. Is he over reacting ... probably. Should he have taken delivery of the car ... no. Should he give the dealer the opportunity to correct the problem ... of course. IS HE A MORON ... I think not. I'll tell you what he does deserve is your apology.
Fritz, read this, taken from the "Edmunds Town Hall Terms of Use":
"I will not ... submit content that is profane, obscene, pornographic or defamatory or content that denigrates a particular group based on gender, race, creed, religion, sexual preference or handicap. ... I agree to disagree in a civil manner should I take issue with the statements of another Town Hall participant or any Edmunds.com, Inc. Editor or content contributor. I understand that civility and respect underlie the success of an on-line community such as Town Hall."
Now, what was that about a poster being a "moron?"
Of course the guy wants a new car, that's what he PAID for! If I had just bought a car and discovered a dent in the top that I did not notice on the lot, I would want it replaced, not "fixed." The dealer is motivated to minimize costs, regardless of his sincerity. Too often, whether Isell would like to admit it or not, the dealer will venture into questionable ethical practices to do that. The house builder analogy does not work because a house, having been build by hand, can be repaired to as new condition, a car that needs body work cannot. And, the issue is not door adjustments, it is about a dent and possible hidden damage. If simple door adjustments were the issue, I am sure exvl01 has the common sense to recognize that. Many new cars come with doors out of adjustment, even Hondas. You should note that he did not consider this a big issue until he noticed the dent in the top.
Let's say YOU just plunk 22 large on a brand new car, then got it home to discover that it isn't as good as new. How would you feel? Honestly, now?
exvl01, if the dealer cannot fix it without repainting it such that it is completely, abosolutely undetectable, get them or Honda to replace it. If you discover that the car has been repainted in any area, or that it would need to be repainted to repair it, insist they replace it. A repaint will simply not last as long as the original paint, so the repainted area will eventually show, even if it appears to be a perfect match. I am sure that if it hasn't been driven too much they can take it back. I have seen dealers in my area offer a no questions asked money-back guarantee, provided you return the car within one week and have driven it less than 300 miles (I think they just don't title the car until the week passes). If they give you grief, go to Honda Customer Relations. I doubt they would look too kindly on a dealer selling cars with body work as new.
And don't let people calling you a "moron" on this board drive you away. Maybe the name-caller has had some experience with someone who had made unreasonable demands of him or his dealer, but your's sounds like a legitimate complaint.
Hey, you seem to know alot about these cars. Seems like you can provide decent, honest info from experience. I've got one for you:
I bought my 98 LX-5-spd in April of 98 and currently I've got 85K miles on the odometer. It has been flawless for the amount of time I've had it. I've had some rattles (CTE issues from cold weather probably) and I've had the front rotors turned 3 times. One thing I can't figure out is this: On cold or damp mornings after I've let my car warm up for a few moments I drive off, shift into 2nd and when I release the clutch and apply gas it seems that the tranny slips... (Kind of like the feeling that you've just spun the tires in some sand). It has done this for the 3 winters that I've owned it and thought nothing of it. The way I get around this is to give vehicle a little pause after shifting before I apply the accelerator. The issue seems A lot more apparent when accelerating on an incline. After about a mile or two it goes away (I have a couple of stoplights within the first few miles of my commute). I've been told it's just "cold clutch plates" and "lack of circulated tranny fluid" at startup. What is your take on this one. Your help is greatly appreciated. I am not too worried since I've driven 85K miles without anything else happen, but it's just a small niggle that I am curious about. Thanks.
I apologize. He's not a moron, I am. Just like to keep the pot stirred every now and then just to see if everybody's awake. I hope he gets two new cars for all his trouble.
sjgladwin It is gear to gear inside the trans so I dont think it is a internal fluid problem. It could be cold, stiff clutch plate, moisture on clutch disc or even a thin layer of ice that has formed and then burns away. Kind of like when you go through a puddle and your brakes slide a little before they dry up and grab again. Other than that I cant think of anything else except for a clutch slave or master that may be starting to fail.But that you should feel in the pedal height or feel...Doesn't seem like much to worry about until it fails. Good luck
I just purchased new 2001 Accord Ex V6. The brake function seems OK but when I release my foot from the brake pedal, there is tapping noise occurred. Is it normal or design like that? I am gonna turn in my Honda to dealer for check out for this tapping noise. Advise me.
I am preparing to buy an Accord ('01 DX or DX V6) in the next few weeks. Based on your discussions of repair issues that have come up, I have made myself a list of things to check on on the chosen car at the Dealer and/or remain aware of during my start as an owner.
1. Wind Noise / creaks - poor seals 2. Vibration pedal or wheel - I/ lights on(?) 3. Rare but occasional starting problems 4. " " Rear defrost problem (inter. antenna?) 5. " " radio problems 6. Odometer off 3-4 mph. 7. robs. I/ AS & vibration (related to #2?) 8. Ticking from purge control valve 9. Inspect car thoroughly for damage - structural, interior 10. Your suggestions (valued highly)
I would especially appreciate any information regarding 2001 models that has recently come to light. And of course any buying tips about the above models (i.. there are a LOT in inventory so press for a good deal ... you're better off with the V6 because ... financing is bad/good through Honda ... etc.)
I know this is a bit of a purchase question but your repair info. has helped give a realistic perspective to my buying outlook, reminding me what is like to "own" a car and not just "buy" one. And the day after I buy the accord I will be back with more questions. Thanks again.
s. If I was to make a last minute decision against the Accord (I'm 90% committed) I was considering the Pas sat GAS Sedan and V6 comparable Carry. Any comments? I really don't like a lot of cabin noise - but I'll live with some for a Honda that is first rate.
I bought a new '00 Accord EXV6 last June, and have had none of those problems. One thing I did, and I'd suggest you and everyone else buying a new car do is take the car you want to buy on an extended test-drive - by yourself if possible. My dealer was very cooperative with me on this request. I took mine out for an afternoon before I bought it, and put nearly 100 miles on it. That way, I made sure there were no problems, and I could really concentrate on driving and listening for noise. Most dealers will probably not want to let you drive it on your own unless you convince them that you will buy it if you like it, and that if they won't let you, you won't buy from them. My sister bought an Acura CL-S last December, and they resisted letting us drive it by ourselves. Once they realized we would buy from someone else if they wouldn't, they did let us take it out for a while. And we did buy it that day.
I was considering Camry also (was actually my first choice till I tried the Accord), one of the reasons I picked the Accord was I could only find one Toyota dealer in my area what would let me drive it by myself, and even they would only let me go for an hour. This dealer didn't have any of the model I would have wanted (XLEV6), and a Camry equipped comparably to the EXV6 Accord was about $2500 more. I never tried a Passat because I had a bad experience with a new VW Rabbit 20 years ago, and vowed to never buy VW again. And the passat is WAY more money than the Accord.
Thanks very much for the input - very helpful. As cars are machines that must have some variation, it seemed important to me to be able to test out the specific car I might buy. But I thought the dealer would see this as an absurd request, since what are they supposed to do if you put on miles but don't buy. Your input suggests this is a reasonable request from a serious buyer as obviously some dealers are amenable to it. Thanks again.
I think dealers will be a bit less picky these days since car sales are down somewhat, so it shouldn't be too hard to find one that will accomodate your needs. Try hard to take the test-drive on your own, it's much easier to concentrate on the car without the distractions of the salespeople. (Well, it is for me, anyway.) They had me sign a Borrowed car agreement form, and show proof of insurance. They may want to run your credit report first, too.
Good luck with your new Accord, come back here and let us know if you get it, and what you think of it.
I have a 2000 V6 w/ 11,000 miles. Bought in Jan of 00'. I have a consistent hesitation in the engine. Here's my story: In Sept I took a trip of about 200 miles. In the next couple of days during both town and highway driving, the engine began hesitating. It was so bad that i thought the car would break down and require towing. In the following days it slowly improved and by the time I got it to the dealer they told me that nothing was wrong. I occasionally noticed hesitating through Dec. I then took another long highway trip and immediately upon getting off the highway i felt serious hesitating. It was like the car was running on 5 cylinders. The car slowly improved and once again a trip to the dealer in Feb resolved nothing. They said it was running w/in normal operating parameters. The car still has plenty of acceleration but I can feel the hesitation at many speeds. I read all previous postings since June and will pursue the TSBs and postings to the NHTSA site then go back to my dealer. It sounds like it could be the torque converter/transmission problem others have had. If anyone has any updates let me know. I'll do the same.
Problem was associated with moderate speeds in the locked up mode. Moderate speed would mean somewhere in the 30 to 40 range I would think. Is this the general range you were in when you noticed the hesitation? Were you doing faster than this(50-70) and still noticed the hesitation? Are you using a quality 87 octane gas?
Are you going slower than above without the torque converter locked and still getting the hesitation. If so, it may not be the torque converter. You didn't have a check engine light up and they didn't try to pull any codes?
I have a 2000 Accord DX Manual and I have the same exact problem that you describe. I was also bothering auburn 36 a few hundred posts back. It's intermittent and more common when it's cold or when I'm going up an incline. I've even heard it a few times going into 3rd.
If you ever get any resolution, please post it. I've heard only some the the same things you mention - cold plates, lack of fluid circulation. I am glad to hear that you are going strong at 85K miles.
So far it's my only complaint but it is defintely annoying.
I have owned 3 Accords with the 5sp, 94 (wrecked), 96 (stolen) and 98 (amazingly, I still have it). All have had the clutch judder you describe. I asked the service dept. at my favorite Honda dealer what can be done, and they basically said "nothing." Seems that all they could do is replace the clutch with another Honda clutch, and it would most likely do the same thing. The service writer (I know, most of those service writers couldn't even tell you which way to turn a lug nut to loosen it, but this guy is really good) tried out several 5sp. Accords on the lot, and he found that they all did it, brand new. He suggested that the only way Honda will address the issue is if enough people complained, and considering that only about 10% of the Accords out there have the manual tranny, it seems very unlikely there will be enough complaints. So, it's a characteristic you live with. Honda's generally fairly refined and well done, but they could have done better with this.
I am considering purchasing a 1998 Accord LX - 4 cyl w/ 28,000 miles for about $15,500. Anything in particular I should look, listen or feel for? Comments and suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
I just got a 2001 EX v6 coupe just over 2 weeks ago. This is probably a broad and basic question, but what's the best octane level to put in it? I heard that cars designed to run on 87 will run worse on higher octane levels. true or false?
This topic surfaces from time to time. I have a 2000 EX V-6 sedan that runs beautifully on 87 octane, so that's what I'd recommend. Higher than recommended octane can be bad for your engine in the long run.
I made a long post about this in another forum a few weeks ago, with a more detailed discussion. If you're interested, follow the URL below, and look for message #795. That way we don't have to rehash this recurring debate.
Finally got a chance to respond to your posts. Auburn, Thanks for your assitance on this. This has been my first true foriegn make and I am still 99% pleased with this product. Just a minor niggle that only occurs intermittently. I also drive my car aggresively (VTEC FEVER) so I wasn't sure if I did any harm. At 85K, I guess I haven't.
silveraccord: I don't think I'm going to be bringing it in for this issue, though if it gets any worse and I do bring it in, I'll post my results. Good luck on your 2K. You will enjoy it for many years to come. The only other issue I have found with these are the brakes. I had them turned 3 times by 3 different places until they got them right.
dkrab: Thanks for your input as well. I didn't realize this was a common issue. Still, it's funny how the Accord owners out there are like a cult, always going back for another one, sorry to hear of your circumstances though... Good luck with your 98. How many miles have you got on yours?
thanks for your comments. I've been using 89 octane since the first incident in September although i ran a few tankfuls of 92 octane through it thinking it may be a gas problem (this did not help). The hesitation happens during gradual acceleration and at steady speeds from 20 to 70. If i pounce on the gas pedal, it has plenty of power and no sense of hesitation.
No check engine light has come on. the dealer mentioned this and implied that since it didn't come on and since no message was left in the cars computer, then the car is working just fine. But of course, it isn't running well.
I can't answer your question about the torque converter being locked. Not familiar with how it works so how do I know when it is 'locked'.
I'm hoping someone can help. I've got a '92 Accord Sedan that is driving me nuts. When I drive the car during cold weather (40 F and colder) I hear a definite squeak coming from what I think is the front suspension when I ride over rough roads. It sounds like springs from an old mattress. Once it warms up the sounds disappear. The car drives fine, and there doesn't seem to be any effect from the sounds. Just really annoying. I've been trying to track it down for some time and have replaced some parts but to no avail. Has anyone experienced a similar problem or no of a possible fix?
I have 64,000 miles on it, and am only now getting the original tires replaced. I guess that tells you something about how I drive. In any event, you are doing the right thing by not worrying over the clutch. It apparently doesn't affect longevity, so it is just a nuisance.
I have never had my rotors turned, and I have had to replace the front pads only once. On the 94-97's, brake rotor warping was not uncommon, but I haven't heard of it being a problem on 98+ models.
It is really amazing that I kept on buying Accords after my experience with the '94. In addition to having to get the rotors turned, I ended up getting the short block replaced. Seems it developed a crack in the block right where the bracket for the exhaust manifold bolts up to it. There is a raised boss cast into the block, and it is not at all uncommon for it to crack just underneath the boss. Oil seeps out of the crack, keeping the front of the block a bit moist so that it collects dirt. The Honda fix at the time was to replace the short block (enging block complete with crank, connecting rods, pistons, and related, but without the head). They did it under warranty (30K at the time) with absolutely no questions asked. Now I understand that they simply patch the crack and install a modified bracket that doesn't stress the block. I guess that is an adequate fix, considering the problem does not affect anything, really. Other problems on the 94 included noisy power steering system when turning at low speed, which turned out to be another one of those "they all do that" problems for which there is no fix. My 96 did it, too. 98 does not.
Justice6, I own a 98 LX 5 speed and have a few things you might want to keep in mind.
If you are considering a manual transmission, try the clutch out and make sure it operates smoothly. Drive it a a while to get it warmed up. Almost all of the '98 5 speeds had a problem with the clutch master cylinder where, once the under-hood temperatures rose, the pedal travel became rough and notchy, sort of like rubber grabbing as it slides over a slick surface. Honda will fix it for free by replacing the entire clutch hydraulic system. There is a Technical Service Bulletin out there for this, which my dealer gave me a copy of.
Other problems are creaking sounds coming from the B pillar on the drivers side and from under the rear window. The noise comes from the structure of the car, and the fix is to apply a Honda provided lubricant between the offending sheet metal components. Again, this should be done free of charge if your car has the problem. Most do not.
A minor annoyance that you may notice as you test drive the car is that is has a slight stumble a few miles after starting the car cold. As the engine management system switches from cold to warm operating (closed loop to open loop operation), it misses a beat. This occurs on every single 4 cylinder car, though most people will never notice it. It won't hurt a thing.
The clutch on the manual transmission cars will judder upon engagement when cold, particularly if the humidity is high. Again, they ALL do that. It goes away after a few minutes.
I hope my experiences here are helpful to all. In spite of these things, I must say it really is a very good car overall and I expect it to last well over 150,000 miles without major trouble, provided it doesn't get smashed up or stolen!
The 2K01 should be 105,000 since my manual states that. Also change the water pump during this operation, so I've been told.
On a side note: A friend of mine is going back to South Carolina and just turned 280K on his 88... The only thing he's done is timing belts, tires, brakes, and a fuel leak. Still has the original Battery!!! He's planning on getting rid of it at 300K.
Earthjockey, It sure sounds to me like you need to take your front sway bar bushings off, lube them up with Dow Corning 111 silicone(a thick based silicone greese)including the hold down braket and reinstall.Note this is the larger ones that are under a bracket and the bar runs through them and not the swaybar link bushings.If I am not explaining it well write back I will try again..
T-Belt, The new ones have up the interval to 7 years 105,000 and the 95 is definitly 6 years or 90,000.Unless in high heat areas the external belts usally last that long as well...
My '01 Accord EX 5-speed frequently experiences hesitation. It was back to the dealer twice, both times the dealer involved Honda's factory tech team. Results? Catalytic converter replaced (first time, after 8 days of diagnostics); they adjusted valves the second time. Car STILL has this problem intermittantly but frequently--and Honda claims that mine works properly--even better than most!
Problem is often most noticable "off the line" either under hard or soft acceleration, but also accelerating at highway speeds.
Help! Any thoughts? My other, older, Hondas did not have this problem. I'm NOT referring to the normal lower torque at revs just off of idle. I often must rev the engine higher than I'd like before letting out the clutch or risk stalling. I'm VERY disappointed with this ULEV VTEC engine and even more disappointed with Honda's technical support.
It's locked after the transmission has shifted into third gear and there is a slight drop in the RPM's. Say you've just reach 40 mph from a gradual acceleration. You should be able to feel a slight bump and see the tach drop to around 1200 or so. This helps to improve mileage when you are at a constant speed(after all other shifts have occurred). But with how you described when it occurs(the hesitation) the converter may not be the problem. And I know that some problems don't show up in the computer even though they really do exist.
I have a 2001 EXv6 Sedan, had it about 4 weeks. I've recently begun noticing a rattle/vibration sound, it appears to come from the glove box. Anyone else had this? Any solutions?
2nd issue, occassionally the car is slow to start. Whereas it normally starts instantly, about once a week or so it cranks for a good 10-15 seconds before starting. I don't think cold is the issue (its kept garaged).
My '01 EX 5-spd (see my post #900)also experiences that noise near the glove box. My wife located it on the top-right of the dash, near the passenger side air bag. A sharp tap on the dash quiets it--for a little while. It is most annoying.
More "dumb" gripes (besides the hesitation problem--which I despise!):
1) Heater must be turned nearly to maximum to get some heat in cooler weather. 2) Radio: digital rotary volume control is too course at the lower end (either too loud or too soft at my desired normal level setting); rear window antenna doesn't hold stations as well as a regular antenna. 3) Rather sloppy interior upholstery workmanship and scuff marks on dash trim.
I'd over-look all the above, except, did I mention the hesitation problem?! With all the Honda problem posts and my recent bad experience, I'm no longer just going to rush out to buy another Honda...
Comments
Seems to me that if the car has few miles on it and was sold less than a week ago, they are legally obligated to switch out to another unit. Surely the title paperwork isn't done yet. We need someone with some knowledge about such things. If it were me, I'd settle for no less that a replacement.
However, if doubts persist, the buyer could hire an appraiser/inspector and an attorney...it really is up to the buyer to prove the contention that the car is structurally damaged I'm afraid. No one is going to replace a car with a cranky door. It's just not a realistic expectation. Either the buyer has to allow the dealer to "make it right", or if it can't be made right, then pursue the legal path for the particular lemon laws in his state...which have strict requirements that must be met for a buy-back.
Thank you.
BOW, Honda still has not contacted me as they said they will by yesterday (Monday)afternoon. I will be very patient and hoping that this is a good sign and give Honda one more day; will call Honda if they didn't give me a ring by late tomorrow (Wednesday) afternoon.
Again, thanks for the continuing support from this forum. It really feels good to read all this responds. Even when some of the comments are against you wishes; it gives you a different prospective and be more compassionate to the dealership EVEN WE HATE THEM most of the time when things aren't going right or perfect for us!!
oh... Did I mention that the rear passenger door across the driver side is way too lose and way to easy to close? It is like slamming against the door if you slightly push it; the front passenger is fine. The rear passenger behind the driver feels a little like the driver's door but not as bad; acceptable or fine. That's what makes me worry (or start imagine) about the structure of the car. Hope I am just worrying too much and my imagination for the worst. Thanks!!
Note: you probably will have to reset your radio code if you have an anti-theft radio..
I think you should take the car to the best body shop in town, and see it they will look at the car and give a written statement, if they can tell there has been any significant body work done. You may have to pay for this. But if you can't get their opinion in writing, this is useless.
A good body man can quickly tell if there has been any painting done. He can tell it the car has been hit.
Are you sure the sunroof is factory installation? If it was done by the dealer or someone he gave the car to, all the damage to the roof could be caused by inept installation of an after-market sunroof. Look at the window sticker. If the sunroof is an add-on, not factory, this could be the sourceof the problems.
Sending a new car out for after-market sunroof installation might also be the cause of the problems with the doors. Someone 'leaning' on the open door, especially a fat boy getting to the roof to cut holes, install parts, etc could pull it out of alignment.
Thanks a lot!
This is exactly why cars have warranties!
Someone said that it wold be nuts to ask a builder for a different house if the roof had a small leak. Good analogy!
Give the dealer a chance to fix the problem and try not to be so untrusting of everything unless the dealer proves to be dishonest.
Yes, you can adjust the valves on that engine!
But, do yourself a favor and take it to someone who is familiar with Hondas!
I checked the FCC IDs on the transmitters at the FCC web site and sure enough they are both on the same frequency. But why aren't the codes doing their job? And how could the car have started all this?
Has anyone ever seen this before?
"I will not ... submit content that is profane, obscene, pornographic or defamatory or content that denigrates a particular group based on gender, race, creed, religion, sexual preference or handicap. ... I agree to disagree in a civil manner should I take issue with the statements of another Town Hall participant or any Edmunds.com, Inc. Editor or content contributor. I understand that civility and respect underlie the success of an on-line community such as Town Hall."
Now, what was that about a poster being a "moron?"
Of course the guy wants a new car, that's what he PAID for! If I had just bought a car and discovered a dent in the top that I did not notice on the lot, I would want it replaced, not "fixed." The dealer is motivated to minimize costs, regardless of his sincerity. Too often, whether Isell would like to admit it or not, the dealer will venture into questionable ethical practices to do that. The house builder analogy does not work because a house, having been build by hand, can be repaired to as new condition, a car that needs body work cannot. And, the issue is not door adjustments, it is about a dent and possible hidden damage. If simple door adjustments were the issue, I am sure exvl01 has the common sense to recognize that. Many new cars come with doors out of adjustment, even Hondas. You should note that he did not consider this a big issue until he noticed the dent in the top.
Let's say YOU just plunk 22 large on a brand new car, then got it home to discover that it isn't as good as new. How would you feel? Honestly, now?
exvl01, if the dealer cannot fix it without repainting it such that it is completely, abosolutely undetectable, get them or Honda to replace it. If you discover that the car has been repainted in any area, or that it would need to be repainted to repair it, insist they replace it. A repaint will simply not last as long as the original paint, so the repainted area will eventually show, even if it appears to be a perfect match. I am sure that if it hasn't been driven too much they can take it back. I have seen dealers in my area offer a no questions asked money-back guarantee, provided you return the car within one week and have driven it less than 300 miles (I think they just don't title the car until the week passes). If they give you grief, go to Honda Customer Relations. I doubt they would look too kindly on a dealer selling cars with body work as new.
And don't let people calling you a "moron" on this board drive you away. Maybe the name-caller has had some experience with someone who had made unreasonable demands of him or his dealer, but your's sounds like a legitimate complaint.
I bought my 98 LX-5-spd in April of 98 and currently I've got 85K miles on the odometer. It has been flawless for the amount of time I've had it. I've had some rattles (CTE issues from cold weather probably) and I've had the front rotors turned 3 times. One thing I can't figure out is this: On cold or damp mornings after I've let my car warm up for a few moments I drive off, shift into 2nd and when I release the clutch and apply gas it seems that the tranny slips... (Kind of like the feeling that you've just spun the tires in some sand). It has done this for the 3 winters that I've owned it and thought nothing of it. The way I get around this is to give vehicle a little pause after shifting before I apply the accelerator. The issue seems A lot more apparent when accelerating on an incline. After about a mile or two it goes away (I have a couple of stoplights within the first few miles of my commute). I've been told it's just "cold clutch plates" and "lack of circulated tranny fluid" at startup. What is your take on this one. Your help is greatly appreciated. I am not too worried since I've driven 85K miles without anything else happen, but it's just a small niggle that I am curious about. Thanks.
It is gear to gear inside the trans so I dont think it is a internal fluid problem. It could be cold, stiff clutch plate, moisture on clutch disc or even a thin layer of ice that has formed and then burns away. Kind of like when you go through a puddle and your brakes slide a little before they dry up and grab again. Other than that I cant think of anything else except for a clutch slave or master that may be starting to fail.But that you should feel in the pedal height or feel...Doesn't seem like much to worry about until it fails. Good luck
The brake function seems OK but when I release my foot from the brake pedal, there is tapping noise occurred. Is it normal or design like that?
I am gonna turn in my Honda to dealer for check out for this tapping noise.
Advise me.
The Best Regards,
Sukang@pacbell.net
1. Wind Noise / creaks - poor seals
2. Vibration pedal or wheel - I/ lights on(?)
3. Rare but occasional starting problems
4. " " Rear defrost problem (inter. antenna?)
5. " " radio problems
6. Odometer off 3-4 mph.
7. robs. I/ AS & vibration (related to #2?)
8. Ticking from purge control valve
9. Inspect car thoroughly for damage -
structural, interior
10. Your suggestions (valued highly)
I would especially appreciate any information regarding 2001 models that has recently come to light. And of course any buying tips about the above models (i.. there are a LOT in inventory so press for a good deal ... you're better off with the V6 because ... financing is bad/good through Honda ... etc.)
I know this is a bit of a purchase question but your repair info. has helped give a realistic perspective to my buying outlook, reminding me what is like to "own" a car and not just "buy" one. And the day after I buy the accord I will be back with more questions. Thanks again.
s. If I was to make a last minute decision against the Accord (I'm 90% committed) I was considering the Pas sat GAS Sedan and V6 comparable Carry. Any comments? I really don't like a lot of cabin noise - but I'll live with some for a Honda that is first rate.
Thinking of buying "Honda 2001 LX (4c)or LX V6." NOT DX!!!!
7. "Problems with ABS (vibration)"
"(i.e. there are a LOT of ...)"
The cars listed at the bottom are "Passat GLS Sedan" and "Camry V6 comparable model."
I was considering Camry also (was actually my first choice till I tried the Accord), one of the reasons I picked the Accord was I could only find one Toyota dealer in my area what would let me drive it by myself, and even they would only let me go for an hour. This dealer didn't have any of the model I would have wanted (XLEV6), and a Camry equipped comparably to the EXV6 Accord was about $2500 more. I never tried a Passat because I had a bad experience with a new VW Rabbit 20 years ago, and vowed to never buy VW again. And the passat is WAY more money than the Accord.
Good luck with your new Accord, come back here and let us know if you get it, and what you think of it.
In Sept I took a trip of about 200 miles. In the next couple of days during both town and highway driving, the engine began hesitating. It was so bad that i thought the car would break down and require towing. In the following days it slowly improved and by the time I got it to the dealer they told me that nothing was wrong. I occasionally noticed hesitating through Dec. I then took another long highway trip and immediately upon getting off the highway i felt serious hesitating. It was like the car was running on 5 cylinders. The car slowly improved and once again a trip to the dealer in Feb resolved nothing. They said it was running w/in normal operating parameters. The car still has plenty of acceleration but I can feel the hesitation at many speeds.
I read all previous postings since June and will pursue the TSBs and postings to the NHTSA site then go back to my dealer. It sounds like it could be the torque converter/transmission problem others have had. If anyone has any updates let me know. I'll do the same.
Are you using a quality 87 octane gas?
I have a 2000 Accord DX Manual and I have the same exact problem that you describe. I was also bothering auburn 36 a few hundred posts back. It's intermittent and more common when it's cold or when I'm going up an incline. I've even heard it a few times going into 3rd.
If you ever get any resolution, please post it. I've heard only some the the same things you mention - cold plates, lack of fluid circulation. I am glad to hear that you are going strong at 85K miles.
So far it's my only complaint but it is defintely annoying.
Thanks!
Thanks
I made a long post about this in another forum a few weeks ago, with a more detailed discussion. If you're interested, follow the URL below, and look for message #795. That way we don't have to rehash this recurring debate.
/direct/view/.ee9e739/807
silveraccord: I don't think I'm going to be bringing it in for this issue, though if it gets any worse and I do bring it in, I'll post my results. Good luck on your 2K. You will enjoy it for many years to come. The only other issue I have found with these are the brakes. I had them turned 3 times by 3 different places until they got them right.
dkrab: Thanks for your input as well. I didn't realize this was a common issue. Still, it's funny how the Accord owners out there are like a cult, always going back for another one, sorry to hear of your circumstances though... Good luck with your 98. How many miles have you got on yours?
No check engine light has come on. the dealer mentioned this and implied that since it didn't come on and since no message was left in the cars computer, then the car is working just fine. But of course, it isn't running well.
I can't answer your question about the torque converter being locked. Not familiar with how it works so how do I know when it is 'locked'.
thanks.
I have never had my rotors turned, and I have had to replace the front pads only once. On the 94-97's, brake rotor warping was not uncommon, but I haven't heard of it being a problem on 98+ models.
It is really amazing that I kept on buying Accords after my experience with the '94. In addition to having to get the rotors turned, I ended up getting the short block replaced. Seems it developed a crack in the block right where the bracket for the exhaust manifold bolts up to it. There is a raised boss cast into the block, and it is not at all uncommon for it to crack just underneath the boss. Oil seeps out of the crack, keeping the front of the block a bit moist so that it collects dirt. The Honda fix at the time was to replace the short block (enging block complete with crank, connecting rods, pistons, and related, but without the head). They did it under warranty (30K at the time) with absolutely no questions asked. Now I understand that they simply patch the crack and install a modified bracket that doesn't stress the block. I guess that is an adequate fix, considering the problem does not affect anything, really. Other problems on the 94 included noisy power steering system when turning at low speed, which turned out to be another one of those "they all do that" problems for which there is no fix. My 96 did it, too. 98 does not.
If you are considering a manual transmission, try the clutch out and make sure it operates smoothly. Drive it a a while to get it warmed up. Almost all of the '98 5 speeds had a problem with the clutch master cylinder where, once the under-hood temperatures rose, the pedal travel became rough and notchy, sort of like rubber grabbing as it slides over a slick surface. Honda will fix it for free by replacing the entire clutch hydraulic system. There is a Technical Service Bulletin out there for this, which my dealer gave me a copy of.
Other problems are creaking sounds coming from the B pillar on the drivers side and from under the rear window. The noise comes from the structure of the car, and the fix is to apply a Honda provided lubricant between the offending sheet metal components. Again, this should be done free of charge if your car has the problem. Most do not.
A minor annoyance that you may notice as you test drive the car is that is has a slight stumble a few miles after starting the car cold. As the engine management system switches from cold to warm operating (closed loop to open loop operation), it misses a beat. This occurs on every single 4 cylinder car, though most people will never notice it. It won't hurt a thing.
The clutch on the manual transmission cars will judder upon engagement when cold, particularly if the humidity is high. Again, they ALL do that. It goes away after a few minutes.
I hope my experiences here are helpful to all. In spite of these things, I must say it really is a very good car overall and I expect it to last well over 150,000 miles without major trouble, provided it doesn't get smashed up or stolen!
On a side note: A friend of mine is going back to South Carolina and just turned 280K on his 88... The only thing he's done is timing belts, tires, brakes, and a fuel leak. Still has the original Battery!!! He's planning on getting rid of it at 300K.
http://www.gates.com/pdf/tbelt.pdf
It sure sounds to me like you need to take your front sway bar bushings off, lube them up with Dow Corning 111 silicone(a thick based silicone greese)including the hold down braket and reinstall.Note this is the larger ones that are under a bracket and the bar runs through them and not the swaybar link bushings.If I am not explaining it well write back I will try again..
T-Belt,
The new ones have up the interval to 7 years 105,000 and the 95 is definitly 6 years or 90,000.Unless in high heat areas the external belts usally last that long as well...
Problem is often most noticable "off the line" either under hard or soft acceleration, but also accelerating at highway speeds.
Help! Any thoughts? My other, older, Hondas did not have this problem. I'm NOT referring to the normal lower torque at revs just off of idle. I often must rev the engine higher than I'd like before letting out the clutch or risk stalling. I'm VERY disappointed with this ULEV VTEC engine and even more disappointed with Honda's technical support.
But with how you described when it occurs(the hesitation) the converter may not be the problem. And I know that some problems don't show up in the computer even though they really do exist.
2nd issue, occassionally the car is slow to start. Whereas it normally starts instantly, about once a week or so it cranks for a good 10-15 seconds before starting. I don't think cold is the issue (its kept garaged).
Anyone else have either of these? Any solutions?
Thanks.
More "dumb" gripes (besides the hesitation problem--which I despise!):
1) Heater must be turned nearly to maximum to get some heat in cooler weather.
2) Radio: digital rotary volume control is too course at the lower end (either too loud or too soft at my desired normal level setting); rear window antenna doesn't hold stations as well as a regular antenna.
3) Rather sloppy interior upholstery workmanship and scuff marks on dash trim.
I'd over-look all the above, except, did I mention the hesitation problem?! With all the Honda problem posts and my recent bad experience, I'm no longer just going to rush out to buy another Honda...