Air in the radiator caused your engine to idle erratically? Wow - never heard that one. Did your expert explain how that might be possible?
The first suspect for an erratic idle is usually an air leak in the manifold. Lean mixture at idle can cause the symptoms you describe. A dirty air filter would likely richen the air/fuel mixture bogging the engine instead of revving it. Check your vacuum hoses and EGR lines.
Has anyone had to replace their safety indicator relay associated with their rear brakes on a 1999 Honda Accord coupe? I have had to replace mine twice (less than 40,000 miles). When it fails, the only rear brake light is the bar on the spoiler. The other lights do not work. The regular tail lights work, but the brake lights do not work. E-mail me at ukcats01@evansville.net if you had a similar problems.
Hello all. If anyone can help me out I'd greatly appreciate it.
Just purchased a '98 Accord EX V6 coupe. Seems to be in great shape. 78k miles on it, and it had the tranny replaced at 74k miles by honda under warranty. Just had the oil changed, brake fluid and coolant flushed, and the power steering belt and accessory belts changed. I'd like to have the timing belt/water pump replaced, along with the distributor, spark plugs, air filters, and brakes flushed. Can anyone recommend what else i should do? Anything problems i should look out for?
Plaza Honda in Brooklyn, NY quoted me a price of $750 for the timing belt/water pump job. South Shore Honda quoted me $695. Dont these prices seem quite high?
Can anyone recommend a quality shop in the NYC area? To me, $750 seems like borderline sodomy.
I have a 2003 4 cyl./ auto. Accord with 20K miles on it. When it only had a few thousand miles, I noticed the coolant tank wasn't to the "full" line, so I topped it off. Now I see the level has gradually gone down a bit. I would estimate it would only take about 6 oz. to return it to the full level. Does this sound like I should have the dealer check it out? I haven't found any leaks.
Recently my wifes honda accord headlights stay in the upright position. I disconnected the battery, turned the positioners so that the headlights closed and upon re-connecting the battery the headlights raise up. Maybe my headlight/parking light switch is bad? With no key in ignition, I tried to turn the headlight "manual positioners" to close the headlights but has 12v power and headlights stay opened. Anyone ever have this problem condition? and know the fix?? thanks, Ger
I have similar experience with my '04 4 cyl. LX-G/auto. When I bought it new in March, I notice right away the coolant level was at the minimum level. Soon in June, it dropped below the MIN level. Took it back to dealer and refilled the tank to full. I checked the level periodically and noticed that it went down gradually until it hit just an inch above the MIN again in October. Had the dealer do a pressure test. No leak was found. Refilled to above "Max" level. Now it sits at the Max level. I suspect my car may have an internal leak somewhere but just can't find it. Any suggestion what I should do? Thanks a lot in advance.
Haven't had this problem with my 89LXi yet. But have seen a few cars with headlights stuck open.
From the service manual, check the following fuses:
- Under the hood fuse box: fuses #19(40A), #5(10A), #6(15A), and #7(15A)
- Under the dash fuse box: fuses #6, #7, #8, #9, #11 and #14.
If fuses are OK, then the car has a bad control unit located on the kickpanel, to the left of the dash fuse box. Before you try to replace it, I would make sure the 13-pin connector to the control unit is not loose which is possible for a 16 years old car.
A bad light switch won't open the headlights, not to close them.
Here's what you can try. With a cold engine, check & fill the coolant in the radiator to the neck. Fill the reservoir to MAX. Do not overfill the MAX.
Drive the car a few days, check the coolant level in the reservoir again when the engine is cold.
The level should be around MAX.
Took the delivery of my 03EXV6 2 years ago. The coolant level in the reservoir was at the MIN. Filled it to MAX. The level has stayed there since then.
I have a 2005 honda accord ex...dash creaks on driver side when go over bumps ....paticuliarly if origin is on passenger side and car is dirty....I would say I'm nuts but story is true. I'm taking it back to the dealer on Monday...but I may have made mistake yesterday when I took through a car wash.
OK, everybody pay attention. There is NO SUCH THING as "Break-in" oil. Road & Track investigated this within the past year or so, and the oil companies don't make it. Change the oil early, and often, and it will treat you right. My 86 Accord LX has 293K on the original, unopened engine. Still running strong and passes smog. Valvoline 20/50 every 3K miles and Fram filter. I changed the oil the first time at 165 miles on the odometer. Do it!
Okay - but how can you be 100% certain that there is no benefit to running factory oil during break-in that contains diluted assembly lube (and the extreme pressure additives contained therein)? Obviously, that factory cocktail has a different makeup than store bought oil. This scenario also squares with oil companies saying they don't make a special "break-in oil".
We won't know until sombody posts a Used Oil Analysis on their factory-fill oil and I haven't seen one yet.
Personally, I'll hedge my bet by doing my first oil change at about 3,750 miles thus splitting the difference between your advice and the manufacturer's.
Honda says change the oil at 10K. I'm changing it at 10K. Well actually between 9-10K. The oil still looks pretty clean at that mileage. But most of my driving is considered highway, the easiest miles to put on a car.
I know I never had a oil related problem with my 1982 Tercel that I had when I couldn't afford to buy newer cars. 7500 on the dot oil changes per the manual and the car got traded at 199K. It still ran like a top. Absolutely no problems except brakes that wore out quickly from abuse when I delivered pizza.
We just got out accord ( '05 4 Cyl EX-L Navi), and noticed that when we have the interior lights, (like the map lights on), and we sit in a parking lot with the engine running, the lights dim a bit (it's noticible) as the engine fan continously cycles on and off. Is this normal?
Also, our MPG from the trip computer really stinks- 13.33 Average MPG over the 169 miles that we have driven it. I'm guessing that this HAS to get better, right?
The dimming lights are normal. Some cars do it more noticably than others.
169 miles is not long enough to determine overall fuel mileage. What type of driving, how long the commute etc. determine what type of fuel economy you will have.
The dealer removed the windshield on my '04 EX, smoothed the welds in the "A" pillar and put in a new windshield...very happy now, after four visits to two dealers.
Your dealer previously performed the procedure described in Honda Service Bulletin 04-057, Creak or Click at Dashboard or A-Pillar and that didn't help?
Did they discuss this TSB with you during any of your visits? Just curious.
I have a 88 Accord lx 4dr. the headlights will retract if you turn on the Hi beams. You use the dash switch to keep them up and then switch from hi to low beam. If anyone knows what is happening with that please let me in on it.
Yes, Honda built and tested the car, but Honda also sells a lot of parts to repair their cars. The fresher and cleaner the oil, the less chance of metal-to-metal contact. Feel free to change it according to the Owner's Manual, but I'm cutting their suggested intervals by more than 50%. With almost 300K miles on my 86 Accord, I think I've demonstrated a successful strategy for extended engine life.
I have the same problem with a 2003 and a 2005 Navi system. The mapping software is not all up to date, and some information has been omitted. For example, there is a Home Depot that has been around for 12 yrs plus, in a major city where I live. The Navi does not display that one, but it will display other stores less then 2 yrs old, in a lesser traveled area.
The Navigation system and DVD map software is made by Alpine.
Right. My Accord 95 EX I4 still runs like crazy at 200K miles. But the oil pen's drain hole was worn out at about 100K miles and I had to replace the oil pan with a new one (or the used/ new one at the...wreck yard if one wants to save some money) as the plug is screwed in and took out too many times when changing oil and the drain plug wears out the hole.
I just bought my 8th top Accord Hybrid with NAVI. The car has not yet been delivered. I have been real happy with Honda's advanced automotive technology. My other V6 EXs are so quiet on the highway and very fast. You are quite right. If ones wants his/ her Honda's engine lasting long he/she should "pamper" his/her Honda day and night like a real baby with "brand-name diapers". At 200K+ miles my other Accord I4's engine ran like new on day one after a major tune up. It was amazing. It is a Honda's engine.
Hello folks. Need help with a problem that has just started with my '94 Honda Accord DX
Automatic(original owner). Car has 154,000 miles on it and has had its maintenance done as scheduled. This week while driving on the highway the following happened:
-the engine light came on,
-the "D" started flashing on the dashboard, and
-the speedometer dropped to 0 and did not budge.
It has happened twice this week and the owner's manual does not really say much about the problem. Anybody have any ideas what the problem is?
I will recheck all fuses as suggested. If you turn on the lights with the hi beam on, the retractors will not go up. Then if you switch to low beam, up comes the retractors. Were is the control unit located? I thought maybe it was in the combination switch. Thanks for your help.
I have a new Accord 04 4 cl. The car is constantly pulling to the left but only on highways and only on the outer lanes. Otherwise it drive straight. The dealer drove and align but found no mechanical problem. This seems to me a safety issue to constantly pay attention and correct the drift out of the lane. I wander if this is a stability issue or some design malfunction. Any advice?
Honda mechs. have addressed this symptom in these boards you can search the messages. From what I remember its has something to do with transmission. Also have one of the auto stores pull a code for free.
okay..this may seem a ridiculous topic,but since we are on oil discussion,Honda has gone to a small diameter filter which is universal for Accords...like it fits my 2000 EX now,and also my 2004 (both are 4 cyls). But every @#$%*&!! wrench I try to use slips or just wont make it in the tight fit. is there any benefit to the honda filter that I will not get from the other leading brands (like...Fram) just to save the aggravation?? Anyone have any insight to the secret filter removal tool?? I have changed oil in my cars all my life at about 3-4K...none have taken me the time and aggravation as the Accord does.
Had the same problem with my 2004 EX 6. Since my dealer does not use synthetic oil I decided to start changing the oil myself. When the wrench I had used for years on my 95 Integra did not fit I went through my entire collection and none of them fit. Pepboys carries a Pennzoil Oil Filter Wrench #19800 that did the job.
Thanks for the tip chuck03. All fuses were fine. I can only suspect that control module I found next to the underdash fuses is now NG. I pulled off that connector to that module and snapped it back in place hoping for a better electrical connection. Same results, headlights still stay up. I'll look into pricing for that module. NO WHERE in my '89 manual does it mention this module! Regards, Ger
Mine did the same thing at 8000. Luckily I was taking it in for it's second oil change anyway. There was a leak on the back of the engine that did not drip onto to the concrete. I did not know it was there. The factory torque on the cylinder head was too tight and they have to replace it. The service dept said they have had a lot of complaints on the mechanics of the 2004 accord. There are other problems also but get this checked 1st. They found the problem using a dye.
My 2004 Coupe is the last Honda i will ever buy for the mechanical problems. Creaks and rattles everywhere. MPG on my 1991 = 32 MPG on my 2004 = 28 on a good day. They both had 4 cylinders. I cannot hear the cell phone or the radio because of all the road noise. My service dept tells me they have complaints about the noise from nearly all Accord owners now since 2003.
The maintenance required light is not the same thing as the check engine light. The dealer should reset the maintenance required light when they do the oil change. The check engine light would signify an actual engine problem.
As for the gas mileage. Your 91 Accord had 125 HP and weighed less than the current generation. It also takes the newer K-series engine a few thousand miles to turn in it's best gas mileage. FWIW, I saw an average of 31 MPG on my 04 EXL Auto and the same out of my 04 EXL manual transmission.
I bought the Accord LX new in 95. We still have the car and it’s turned 90K miles. The water pump went out at around 44K. The driver’s side power window motor went south at around 70K. Then the starter went bad about 82K. Now the engine is using oil - about a quart every 1200 miles. Nothing on the driveway - I checked the PCV valve and even replaced it to be safe. This car has been well maintained; Mobil 1 and filter every 4 to 5K (didn’t start using Mobile 1 until there was around 5k on the vehicle) and we are fairly conservative drivers. There have been other nuisance problems along the way as well. I can’t bring myself to say this has been a great car – not bad either – but it doesn’t seem up to par, especially when I read and hear other Accord owner’s stories.
Am I being too hard on my Accord? Am I over blowing the issue? Does anyone else have similar issues with oil consumption?
Considering the car is 10 years old I don't think you have had THAT many problems. I can't think of a good reason for it to be using that much oil though. Have you had it looked at by a Honda dealer or Honda/Acura specialist?
I just picked up my new 05 i4 Accord. On the way home I have noticed the same thing, the car was pulling to the left driving on the left lane. At first I thought the alignment. But after I moved to the middle lane the pulling disappeared and the car was flowing perfectly straight. I haven't contacted my dealer yet, has anybody else noticed the thing?
The general consensus is that the Accord's front and rear double wishbone set-up makes it a little more susceptible to road-crowning than other cars. If it straightened up in the center lane then that is probably the case. Just for peace of mind though you can take it back to the dealer to have them check the tire pressure and alignment.
I checked both those fuses with a multimeter and they are good. Thanks to you I found the retractor control box and I am getting a replacement. Thanks again for your help.
I registered so I could post a reply to this --- my 2000 UK Accord suffered badly from the "ice cracking" sound on the windscreen/windshield (I'm English!).
I traced it to the black plastic strip below the windscreen; there are some round lugs (like a big fat black screw, without any slot) which hold it down. The one on the far left was the culprit for me; take the entire thing out (there are two removable parts, just pull), clean, and reassemble tightly and the noise is gone.
My son's 2003 Accord V6 EX Coupe runs quiet on highway but the ride is a little bit rough. It appears the shocks/ suspensions are too stiff on the Coupe. My V6 EX 2002 Sedan runs more smoothly and I feel much more comfortable? Do you have any ideas why? Are shocks/ suspensions different between the Accord Sedan and the Coupe? Is lowering the tire pressure helpful? Thanks.
I can't believe your Honda uses a quart every 1200 miles. Something is amiss. I've seen valve cover gaskets go out, and leak oil into the motor mounts-which could go undetected for quite a while. 90k is about a third of the lifetime on one of those motors, especially when well-maintained. It's worth a dealer taking a look.
Also have them replace the oil seals while they're doing your timing/balance belts and water pump. And there was also a recall to add a retainer to hold the balance shaft oil seal in place. It started to leak and finally blew out on high-mileage older Accords.
thanks bioman..I was beginning to think it was me!i'll check it out. also checked the web (H&A)...I see they have the "genuine" honda wrench for a "mere" eighteen bucks!
Comments
The first suspect for an erratic idle is usually an air leak in the manifold. Lean mixture at idle can cause the symptoms you describe. A dirty air filter would likely richen the air/fuel mixture bogging the engine instead of revving it. Check your vacuum hoses and EGR lines.
I replace the spark plugs, PCV valve, and air filter every 24K miles on my 89LXi.
Spark plugs and PCV valve are cheap and easy to replace.
Just purchased a '98 Accord EX V6 coupe. Seems to be in great shape. 78k miles on it, and it had the tranny replaced at 74k miles by honda under warranty. Just had the oil changed, brake fluid and coolant flushed, and the power steering belt and accessory belts changed. I'd like to have the timing belt/water pump replaced, along with the distributor, spark plugs, air filters, and brakes flushed. Can anyone recommend what else i should do? Anything problems i should look out for?
Plaza Honda in Brooklyn, NY quoted me a price of $750 for the timing belt/water pump job. South Shore Honda quoted me $695. Dont these prices seem quite high?
Can anyone recommend a quality shop in the NYC area? To me, $750 seems like borderline sodomy.
thanks in advance.
From the service manual, check the following fuses:
- Under the hood fuse box: fuses #19(40A), #5(10A), #6(15A), and #7(15A)
- Under the dash fuse box: fuses #6, #7, #8, #9, #11 and #14.
If fuses are OK, then the car has a bad control unit located on the kickpanel, to the left of the dash fuse box. Before you try to replace it, I would make sure the 13-pin connector to the control unit is not loose which is possible for a 16 years old car.
A bad light switch won't open the headlights, not to close them.
Drive the car a few days, check the coolant level in the reservoir again when the engine is cold.
The level should be around MAX.
Took the delivery of my 03EXV6 2 years ago. The coolant level in the reservoir was at the MIN. Filled it to MAX. The level has stayed there since then.
What could make this happen?
We won't know until sombody posts a Used Oil Analysis on their factory-fill oil and I haven't seen one yet.
Personally, I'll hedge my bet by doing my first oil change at about 3,750 miles thus splitting the difference between your advice and the manufacturer's.
I know I never had a oil related problem with my 1982 Tercel that I had when I couldn't afford to buy newer cars. 7500 on the dot oil changes per the manual and the car got traded at 199K. It still ran like a top. Absolutely no problems except brakes that wore out quickly from abuse when I delivered pizza.
Read the Owner's Manual and do what it says.
Case should be closed......Richard
We just got out accord ( '05 4 Cyl EX-L Navi), and noticed that when we have the interior lights, (like the map lights on), and we sit in a parking lot with the engine running, the lights dim a bit (it's noticible) as the engine fan continously cycles on and off. Is this normal?
Also, our MPG from the trip computer really stinks- 13.33 Average MPG over the 169 miles that we have driven it. I'm guessing that this HAS to get better, right?
Thanks
169 miles is not long enough to determine overall fuel mileage. What type of driving, how long the commute etc. determine what type of fuel economy you will have.
Did they discuss this TSB with you during any of your visits? Just curious.
Thanks
The Navigation system and DVD map software is made by Alpine.
Looking at the headlight circuit diagram for 89 Accord (I guess the 88 and 89 use the same circuit), the high/low beam control signals are fed to
1. the headlights to turn the light on with low/high beam. This operation works fine. Correct?
2. the 13-pin connector control unit. This unit controls the headlights up or down.
If fuses are OK, I think your car has a bad control unit.
I just bought my 8th top Accord Hybrid with NAVI. The car has not yet been delivered. I have been real happy with Honda's advanced automotive technology. My other V6 EXs are so quiet on the highway and very fast. You are quite right. If ones wants his/ her Honda's engine lasting long he/she should "pamper" his/her Honda day and night like a real baby with "brand-name diapers". At 200K+ miles my other Accord I4's engine ran like new on day one after a major tune up. It was amazing. It is a Honda's engine.
Have a good Holiday Season, folks.
Automatic(original owner). Car has 154,000 miles on it and has had its maintenance done as scheduled. This week while driving on the highway the following happened:
-the engine light came on,
-the "D" started flashing on the dashboard, and
-the speedometer dropped to 0 and did not budge.
It has happened twice this week and the owner's manual does not really say much about the problem. Anybody have any ideas what the problem is?
Thanks in advance for the information/help.
Ray
Fuse #8 connected the left headlight, fuse #9 connected to the right and to the control unit. I bet fuse #9 blown.
The control unit is located on the kick panel, to the left of the dash fuse box. Look for a harness with 13-pin connected to it.
Good luck.
Thanks
See if you can get it at the dealer for a bit more and return it if it's not the cause.
2. "D" flashing means there is problem with your transmission. Have someone check it before it fails on you.
Get into the dealer quick!
Mine did the same thing at 8000. Luckily I was taking it in for it's second oil change anyway. There was a leak on the back of the engine that did not drip onto to the concrete. I did not know it was there. The factory torque on the cylinder head was too tight and they have to replace it. The service dept said they have had a lot of complaints on the mechanics of the 2004 accord. There are other problems also but get this checked 1st. They found the problem using a dye.
As for the gas mileage. Your 91 Accord had 125 HP and weighed less than the current generation. It also takes the newer K-series engine a few thousand miles to turn in it's best gas mileage. FWIW, I saw an average of 31 MPG on my 04 EXL Auto and the same out of my 04 EXL manual transmission.
Am I being too hard on my Accord? Am I over blowing the issue? Does anyone else have similar issues with oil consumption?
It's time for the timing belt and 90K check-up.
I registered so I could post a reply to this --- my 2000 UK Accord suffered badly from the "ice cracking" sound on the windscreen/windshield (I'm English!).
I traced it to the black plastic strip below the windscreen; there are some round lugs (like a big fat black screw, without any slot) which hold it down. The one on the far left was the culprit for me; take the entire thing out (there are two removable parts, just pull), clean, and reassemble tightly and the noise is gone.
Hope that helps,
-Rich