Thanks, Brandon. I am hoping it is just the computer and not a mechanical trans problem. It seems unlikely that the trans would suddenly develop a mechanical problem crusing on the interstate in 4th gear with no shifting. It seems to be locked in 2nd gear now - won't shift up or down. (I think that is a common fail-safe mode for electronically controlled transmissions.) I am staying at a hotel now, I am going to try to get the car to limp to the nearest dealer in the morning - wish me luck.
Today I met a serious problem while driving my 98 V6 accord (about 10500Km)on highway in the night . First all dash lights went on suddenly, then the head lights became weak, later on some mechanical noise coming out from the transmission . It seems the car lost control as i couldn't keep the speed (@120KM/H). Fortunately I was very close to my destination exit when this was happened. After Exit and found all headlights and turning lights had gone, and the car only could move at un-stable speed (i.e. suddenly fast or very slow). after run about 20km away from the exit the car engine totally dead......, Can anybody tell me the reason caused this? I need helps. thanks in advance!
1) All dash lights on, sudden headlight dimming: something happened to the alternator belt, alternator pulley, alternator itself, or all of those parts
2) Transmission noise: most probably the broken alternator belt hitting something, or the pulley had seized and the unbroken belt forced it to turn
I'm almost sure your problem involves the alternator components. The fix may be as low as $15 for the belt or pulley only or up to $250 (with labor) for an alternator replacement.
Honda alternators are quite durable, so it's probably just the belt and pulley replacement.
I have a 2005 Accord EX V6 with only 350 miles on it. Earlier today I began to hear a slapping/rattling sound that seemed to be coming from the driver's side visor area whenever I went over any sort of noticeable bump. I hadn't heard the noise before -- on the three prior days I owned the car. The temperature was colder today though (40s vs. 50s or 60s) than on previous days so I don't know if that played a factor. Any help would be much appreciated. I plan to take it back to the dealer, but I know that rattles/noises can be difficult to find and repair.
Many of these owners give their vehicles 3,000 mile oil changes. I guess "high quality / state of the art preventive maintenance" does count for vehicle longevity!
Apparently Honda did not resolve this issue for their 2005 Accords. I (and some others who post here)have had a similar problem with creeks and rattles. Check out my posts for Dec 15th or 16th for specific details.
I owned a 2003 accord exv6 auto, and i currently own an accord exv6 6 speed. On both models I have had problems with the driver's side seat. When you move the seat back and forth it seems as though there are rocks in the tracks of the seat. When i am driving and taking a turn, the seat moves a bit. This has happened in both models. I have checked under the seat to see if there was any obstruction(i.e. change), but there is not.When I went to the dealer with the 2003, they said there was no fix. Do they have a fix now? Is this common with other accords with power seats.
I have an accord with less than 10000 miles on it and have had the oil pan replaced and cylinder head work done. Is this common? The only thing i had to do to my old Honda with 240,000 was change the fluids, timing belt and fill it with gas. I am thinking of trading it in for a toyota after reading these pages before this turns into a nightmare. The car is starting to creak a lot. Any thoughts on the trade? Is a honda now a lemon?
Forums like this tend to attract people with problems. People without problems are out driving.
I have a 1997 Subaru Outback. If you go to the Ultimate Subaru Forum, you'll find all kinds of people complaining about head gasket problems. Sound s like a Yugo-grade reliability problem.
It appears that no more than 20% of those cars - and usually only with over 100,000 miles - ever has the problem. It's still a top-rated car for reliability. But the forums amplify the prbolems.
Benney: thanks first for your diagnosis. this morning i started the Accord V6 engine but dare not to drive to the nearest dealer (5km to go)as i worried about the transmission. As per your comments the problem only involves alternator components, so as the car could be started, can i drive it without any damages happend consequently?
xiaoming, glad to offer an opinion. I'm going to say go ahead and drive the car if 1) there is no flashing "D" light on the dashboard gear position indicator, and 2) the transmission shifts normally into R and then D.
Drive slowly around the block for a final check of abnormal noises/conditions before proceeding to the shop. Don't use any battery-draining accessories like the a/c, lights, radio, etc. during the drive; probably the best time to do this is during the slow daytime hours of 10-12/2-4.
I have a 98 Odyssey AT ~110K miles, and have been experiencing the exact symptoms that you have described over the last 2 months. Honda dealer first thought it was a dirty throttle body but of course even after cleaning it the problem continued. It is back at the Honda repair center for the 3rd time and they are having trouble reproducing the intermittent problem. As of today, they said they couldn't find anything wrong with the ignition system. One of the things that I'm having them do is to turn the ignition switch on and off repeatedly and in between if they just gently touch the key, they maybe able to reproduce the problem. I had the timing belt/fuel pump recently replaced -- not sure if that has any connections. Problem has mostly occurred at city streets at ~30mph. Yesterday was the first time it occurred at 70mph. Honda will try again tomorrow. I'll post anything that they find.
I just picked up my 2005 Accord EX V6 last week and it's GREAT. The only minor problem I see right now is that the cover on the accessory power socket does not open up all the way. Is this a problem or is this the way it should be?
Maybe there are more problem vehicles out in the "real world" than we realize! People who pay their hard earned money for any vehicle have the right to complain if something on their vehicle is not right. Why is it always the owner's fault? It is about time, that every manufacturer take responsibility for their product. If there is a problem with a new vehicle, it should be repaired and / or replace if necessary without question! The problem with most new vehicle designs is that they are not properly "field tested" in real world conditions. The manufacturer lets the consumer do the testing, so as such, the consumer becomes part of the correction process.
I started hearing the clicking noises today in the same place on the dash (driver's side) on my new '05 EX V6. It seems to be especially noticable going over bumps at freeway speeds. The car is only a few days old. Any luck in finding a cure? Have the dealers been helpful?
For some reason the front passenger door tab came loose. Will bring it in for repair in the next oil change. I hope the dealer doesn't have to open the door panel in order to put the tab back.
Help!! I have a right-hand-drive 1999 Honda Accord Coupe 3.0 with 3 problems:
1. All instrument backlights have gone when exterior lights are switched on. All instruments & warning lights work OK. I believe it's something to do with the rheostat built into the instrument cluster. Auto trans quadrant light is gone as well. Clock & Climate Control backlights work but goes out as soon as exterior lights are switched on.
2. Front tyres wear out on inner edge. 2 new front tyres replaced in February 2004 & wheel alignment checked but still the problem prevails.
3. Annoying electronic buzz/chirping noise from fuse box area on driver's side end of instrument panel in the footwell area behind the coin tray/drawer. This is intermittent but annoying when it happens.
Apart from above & the inaccurate fuel gauge reported in countless forums, the car is great!
Just how sure are you of your camber settings? Do you know what the settings were before, after, and what the spec range is?
This past summer, I bought a four-wheel alignment from a local shop that I'd heard good things about. Afterward, I was shocked when they handed me a computer printout listing the spec ranges as well as all the before and after measurements on each of the four wheels. That's a first!
I'll never get another alignment done without first explaining that I want a printout as above for my records. You'll know then what you had, what you got done, and you'll have something to compare to next time. Perhaps this is common practice but it was a first for me.
I've _always_ been given an alignment prinout from the early Hunter machines (1987???) up til now. The layout has become much better than just typewritten data like at first. But it's great to show to the next alignment guy how the adjustment before compensated for the left lead the car wanted to have by using caster, e.g. Gives the next alignment guy a head start on setup for the car.
My car was jumping from about 3000-1000RPM and then back again while in Park. Shifting to Drive stopped the idling problem. I replaced the Fast Idle Valve and the issue went away. Other possibilities I found while online include:
check the vacuum lines looking for a vacuum leak
check and clean the EGR valve
check the MAP sensor
check the fuel injectors
clean the IAP sensor
clean the throttle body
PVC valve
change the ECM module
Not sure how plausible some of those are, but at least they give you some ideas. I would attack the idle air control valve or fast idle valve first. Hope that helps.
For people with transmissions that won't engage overdrive (lock the torque converter) here is what is necessary for lockup from what I have found online and via the service manual (90 Accord)
Besides the speed sensing indicator, a converter may not lockup for any of the following reasons:
1. Engine temperature too cold - most converters will not lockup until the coolant reaches about 120°F.
2. Overdrive unit locked out - when an automatic overdrive is "locked-out" the torque converter lockup feature will also be locked out. Overdrive lockout would normally only be used when pulling heavy loads, thus the converter is logically "locked out."
3. Under low engine vacuum, heavy part-throttle acceleration is an additional power demand which could result in the engine lugging. To prevent engine lugging, which could result in serious engine damage, a sensor determines if low manifold vacuum exists.
Typical lockup converters connect these sensors in a series creating a "string" arrangement. That is, if one sensor gives a "no" signal then the converter will not lockup.
As for some first hand information, I was only getting overdrive when the weather was warm (70 degrees F plus). In cold weather (most definitely single digits) I had no overdrive. I changed the thermostat, of course also having to drain and fill the coolant (use only distilled water to dilute the coolant-prevents buildup from impurities in common water) and now I have overdrive all the time.
If the car thinks the coolant is too cold you are not going to get overdrive. Also, everyone check your coolant levels. Two friends have noticed less or no heat in their cars and they were both incredibly low on coolant. With winter here, it's a good time to make sure you have enough.
Has anyone experienced problems such as rattling or crunchy noises coming from the visor or windows columns in accord 05. I had a pretty bad experience with accord 03.
I noticed the same thing with my 2005 Coupe. I also notice that the coin holder does not open very wide and it is difficult to get the coins out of it. I much preferred the sliding coin tray in my 2001 Accord Coupe.
Oh yeah baby, have I ever! The visor problems were easy to fix - most came from the inner vanity mirror cover and were corrected by using a little adhesive felt along the edge where the rattle was being made. The rest involved having some padding put into the headliner, which is just "thrown up there" as my dealer advised me.
However, I have had incessant squeaks and rattles from the passenger door and all six pillars (the A,B, and C columns holding up the roof). Most of these have been traced to the way they designed the side curtain airbag system. In one instance, the shield behind the gas canister was banging into the canister and making a metal washer rattling noise. In another, I finally took the passenger door inside panel off myself and insulating every friggin' wire exposed to metal with foam padding, only to find that the lock mechanism by the rod that actuated the door lock was itself rattling (nothing to do but live with that one). Every time I solve one rattle, I find another one. Its the most frustrating aspect of my experience with this car which, for the most part (other than a lot of freeplay in the cheap [non-permissible content removed] plastic shifter with no rods or linkage adjustments that Honda used on V-6 EX 6spd. in '04) I'm really happy with.
Keep on your dealer to fix this stuff - ask him if you can take a service tech for a ride to show him the noise. I didn't pin down the airbag canister shield thing until I bounced a mechanic around White Plains city streets for about 10 minutes.
Overdrive is a transaxle shift from 3rd gear to 4th gear. Converter lockup is the converter turbine locking to the converter housing. They are not one and the same but two separate mechanical functions. Aside from that, the requirements are as listed with one additional for converter clutch engagement, brake pedal released.
I ran into the same issue with my 03 accord EX-L, although I was still within the warranty. They told me they replaced the radio unit. A note on the side, make sure you remove your CD’s from the radio because the service department didn’t bother to check to see if it was full and removed the system CD’s included (I didn’t realize they had to replace the radio to fix the display unit since it includes the climate control unit). Luckily I realized this early enough before they sent the old system back to Honda although they wanted me to bring my car back in to reconnect the old unit remove the CD’s and then put back in the new one. I just told them to figure out something else or use their demo model for that purpose. Whatever they did, they were able to get the CD’s out that day.
I had a blinking oil light problem in my old VW GTI. It was low oil pressure (not low oil) due to thin oil (almost watery). I changed the oil, pressure light went off, and I never had watery-thin oil again (I changed oil every 5,000).
Check the viscosity of the oil. If it drips fast like water, its too thin and needs changing. If it happens again, you need to find the source of the thinning substance (coolant leaking into crankcase possibly).
I like the self-closing power socket cover. It might even be considered to be a safety feature for when there is nothing plugged in.
No problems here with the coin holder. I just use it for the occasional toothpick since much of the eastern seaboard of the USA uses electronic toll collection. I see that you live in Ontario, so that wouldn't apply. I can't remember the last time that I used a coin at a tollbooth.
Try trading a quiet powerful car ('99 Maxima GXE 5 spd) with 123,000 miles on it that's paid for and running well (but heading into mid-life crisis period) to spend $24,000 for a car you spend two hours and a 100 miles per day in, only to have it squeak, rattle, and rumble from the day you got it.
You'd be putting up posts on the side of buildings like the rest of us too.
For the past couple of winters, I have been experiencing various electrical problems with my 89 Accord (215,000 miles).
The car stalls each winter...last winter, I replaced the alternator and battery. This winter, I replaced the cables, terminals, and battery. The car STILL STALLS!
It has had a recent tune-up, radiator flush, regular oil changes, and the general works.
Why do I keep losing power? Before, the car just wouldn't start up in cold weather, but now it is starting to stall randomly each day. I still have power (can operate my window and headlights), but I am unable to restart the engine with out a jump.
AutoZone read my 1998 Honda Accord's check engine light code as p1465. They looked it up and said it was an A/C relay circuit malfunction. I've purchased the part ($19) and will pick it up in a day or two. I'm wondering if anyone knows whether this part is to replace one of the fuses (and if so, which one; I looked at the fuse box on the driver's side and saw one fuse that handles heating and A/C and one other item, I think) -- the guy at AutoZone seemed to equate "relay" with "fuse".
Also, is it likely that I'm going to end up having to get the part from Honda themselves? I've read that parts one gets at a store like AutoZone don't always work.
I found out the hard way today that the last owner of my accord had not bothered to use anti-seize on the spark plugs when one snapped in half as I tried to retrieve it. The nut broke off on my side but all the threads are still in the engine. There is almost nothing left of the plug showing for me to grab onto. What can I do (besides break it down and remove the head) to possibly get out that plug!?!?
I threw on some penetrating oil because... why not, but I don't see how it will even find space to work itself in.
If the electrode and insulator came out and left just a threaded barrel in the head, then an "easy out" tool would give you a good shot. Otherwise, you'd have to drill out the blockage, try the easy-out, and then vacuum the debris from that cylinder (using a small-diameter hose).
Still, in either case, without removing the head you're taking a big chance on damage that debris could cause. Good luck.
I'd call a couple of garages for advice before I pulled off the head. I'm sure this has happened before.
Any idea how long those plugs were in there?!?!?
PS: I ran across the following doing a google for your problem (see especially #3 and #6):
Spark Plug Replacement Tips . . .
"1. Always allow an engine to cool down before removing spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads.
2. Always gently blow sand and other debris away from spark plugs before removal. And don’t forget those safety glasses!
3. If the spark plug is difficult to turn or is seized in the cylinder head, try tightening the spark plug, then loosening it 1/8-turn while soaking the threads with penetrating fluid.
4. Holding the spark plug in an appropriate length of fuel hose will help prevent contaminating the insulator with grease or other conductive substances.
5. Using a length of fuel hose to start the spark plug in the cylinder head will also help prevent cross threading.
6. Many spark plug manufacturers don’t recommend using anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads. 7. If you prefer using anti-seize compound, apply it to the threads sparingly with a small, soft brush.
8. If the spark plug won’t seat correctly, a special spark plug thread chaser may be used to remove hardened carbon from the cylinder head threads and spark plug seat.
9. Under-torquing spark plugs will cause carbon to accumulate in the threads, making future removal difficult.
10. Over-torquing spark plugs can damage the spark plug internally and ruin the threads in the cylinder head.
11. A light coating of silicone dielectric compound inside the spark plug boot will expedite future removal of the spark plug wires."
Try PB Blaster as the penetrating oil. Supposed to work wonders. There's a thread on a VW forum where this stuff saved the day with a 25 minute soak.
Here's a bit from a Volvo forum:
"Removing Spark Plugs. The spark plug socket used to install plugs is sized 13/16 inch. A swiveling u-joint and three inch extension is also needed. [Query:] One plug is stuck and cannot be removed. How do I get it out? [Response: Steve McChesney] Penetrating oil. [Brickboard penetrating oil preferences: PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, in order of effectiveness.] Soak the area, and run the engine. Let the engine cool off, and soak it again before you go to bed at night. Do this again and again and again. 30 or 40 times over the next few weeks would not be excessive. No need to have the stuff dripping all over, just use a little bit at a time. It's likely that the temperature cycling and vibration of the engine, with gradual penetration of the oil, will loosen the corrosion of the threads. The stuff is magic, but only if you have plenty of faith and patience. [Response: Don Foster] I recently changed plugs on daughter's VW. One plug was dead tight, and when it finally broke free I was sure the aluminum threads were coming with it. Kroil didn't help. I first ran the engine for 15-20 minutes to get it good 'n hot -- aluminum expands at twice the rate of iron. The resistant plug backed right out without damaging the aluminum. [Response: HTH] Soak liberally with KROIL, PB Blaster, or your favorite serious penetrant (don't even think about Liquid Wrench). Start engine, run about 3-5 minutes. CAREFULLY check the temp by putting your hand on the exhaust manifold to feel the heat. You want to stop the engine just as the head is warming up. Hopefully, if you get it just right, the head will have warmed up but the plug will not be at normal operating temp and the hole will be a little bigger than the plug. At least that's what I theorized and it worked for me."
From the same forum on Anti-Seize Compounds:
"Tightening, Torque and Anti-Seize Compounds:
[From AC Delco] Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.
[From NGK] Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind. An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur. The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when it’s hot and installation may prove difficult. [From Denso] If threads are lubricated, the torque value should be reduced by approximately 1/2 to avoid over-tightening.
[Tip from Underhood Service Magazine] One vehicle manufacturer warns against using antiseize because antiseize acts like a lubricant and may allow the plugs to be overtightened, which can damage the threads. If you do use antiseize on the threads, their advice is to reduce the tightening torque on the plugs 40%.
[Tip from Autolite] We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time. You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals. "
Just the threaded barrel is left, and your thoughts were mine as I had already called around looking fot the right Easy-Out. I had some screw extractors and was thinking this was the way to go, just trying to track down something bigger than what I currently own.
Taking off the head is something I would really rather not do. It looks like an immense pain according to service manual. I'm going to try and rig up a screen that I can slip past the barrel to catch the debris (which I'm hoping will be minimal anyway). Depends how much clearance I have.
Thanks also to altair for the help. I ran across some of the same web info you did. Thanks again. I called around a few places just after it happened and they basically said the surest way was to pull the head and remove it. A trusted (but distant) mechanic said the best way was to pull the head to protect the cylinder, but he said it was probably worth a try to extract it considering my situation. He also agreed about the easy out.
Thanks for the anti-seize info also. Seems like it will just be a torque wrench next time around.
I'm waiting on the penetrating oil and on finding the right tools. I'll post back when it's done just in case anyone is curious.
While I am generally happy with my purchase, there are 2 items of concern. I wash the car frequently and notice the wheels are constantly coated with brake dust . I can clean it but have asked the dealer for advice to reduce the occurence but they have no suggestions.
Secondly, the front tires constantly spray the lower body panels with dirt resulting in a nice detailing job having to be redone on a regular basis. I have front splash guards but they do not do a good job as they do not project out from the wheelwell to catch the dirt or water.
Thanks first for Benny who has provided a lots helps to sort out the problems I experienced. The Westgate Honda dealer (in London, Ontario )found the following problems with my 98 accord V6 Exl:
1. the battery charging system was not working;
2. the battery was in bad condition, which caused the lost of alternator.
As suggested, we have the alternator and battery replaced (total cost about C$670 including tax), the car is okay now and thanks god there is nothing wrong with transmission. What i can't understand is how the bad battery could break the alternator down? Also there is a consequent problem now with the audio system as the battery has been replaced with new one. Since the previous owner lost the audio code so we don't have it then the dealer couldn't call back the audio system unless we purchase a new code (a extra cost). Today called the dealer which sold the accord originally and was told normally they don't save the code for customers. i just wonder if we can find this code back at any place inside the car. Any advise will be APPRECIATED!
Problems are still in the 05. I just bought an 05 Accord EX V6 with NAVI and it rattles and creaks. Also there was a small noticable bump in the center dash panel. Something underneath caused it to protrude up a little. Also, came with a scratched odometer plastic cover. Took it to dealer to fix. Now only creaks under larger bumps. I'll take it in again to fix that. Dough. Can that be basis for a lemon return?
xiaoming, glad to have helped. After some research, here are ways to get your radio code with minimal or no expense:
1) Look for a reference code sticker (not the radio code itself, btw) stuck inside your glovebox or under the fusebox cover in the engine compartment. Call your dealer and give them the code with your VIN, and they should provide the radio code free.
2) If above doesn't apply, remove the radio using instructions from
About the battery breaking the alternator, this is possible but not probable unless a grossly underrated battery was installed previously so as to overwork the alternator.
It's probably more a defective alternator that had been taxing the battery, making you replace both.
Just make sure this time that the right (meaning, with the correct amperage rating) battery was installed.
Comments
1) All dash lights on, sudden headlight dimming: something happened to the alternator belt, alternator pulley, alternator itself, or all of those parts
2) Transmission noise: most probably the broken alternator belt hitting something, or the pulley had seized and the unbroken belt forced it to turn
I'm almost sure your problem involves the alternator components. The fix may be as low as $15 for the belt or pulley only or up to $250 (with labor) for an alternator replacement.
Honda alternators are quite durable, so it's probably just the belt and pulley replacement.
I have a 1997 Subaru Outback. If you go to the Ultimate Subaru Forum, you'll find all kinds of people complaining about head gasket problems. Sound s like a Yugo-grade reliability problem.
It appears that no more than 20% of those cars - and usually only with over 100,000 miles - ever has the problem. It's still a top-rated car for reliability. But the forums amplify the prbolems.
Look on the Camry forums for problems with transmission hesitation and faulty intermediate steering shafts. Not even Honda and Toyota are perfect.
Drive slowly around the block for a final check of abnormal noises/conditions before proceeding to the shop. Don't use any battery-draining accessories like the a/c, lights, radio, etc. during the drive; probably the best time to do this is during the slow daytime hours of 10-12/2-4.
Your direction is much appreciated. I will drive the Accord to Honda dealer tomorrow morning. wish me be luck!
Thanks
I started hearing the clicking noises today in the same place on the dash (driver's side) on my new '05 EX V6. It seems to be especially noticable going over bumps at freeway speeds. The car is only a few days old. Any luck in finding a cure? Have the dealers been helpful?
1. All instrument backlights have gone when exterior lights are switched on. All instruments & warning lights work OK. I believe it's something to do with the rheostat built into the instrument cluster. Auto trans quadrant light is gone as well. Clock & Climate Control backlights work but goes out as soon as exterior lights are switched on.
2. Front tyres wear out on inner edge. 2 new front tyres replaced in February 2004 & wheel alignment checked but still the problem prevails.
3. Annoying electronic buzz/chirping noise from fuse box area on driver's side end of instrument panel in the footwell area behind the coin tray/drawer. This is intermittent but annoying when it happens.
Apart from above & the inaccurate fuel gauge reported in countless forums, the car is great!
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
This past summer, I bought a four-wheel alignment from a local shop that I'd heard good things about. Afterward, I was shocked when they handed me a computer printout listing the spec ranges as well as all the before and after measurements on each of the four wheels. That's a first!
I'll never get another alignment done without first explaining that I want a printout as above for my records. You'll know then what you had, what you got done, and you'll have something to compare to next time. Perhaps this is common practice but it was a first for me.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My car was jumping from about 3000-1000RPM and then back again while in Park. Shifting to Drive stopped the idling problem. I replaced the Fast Idle Valve and the issue went away. Other possibilities I found while online include:
check the vacuum lines looking for a vacuum leak
check and clean the EGR valve
check the MAP sensor
check the fuel injectors
clean the IAP sensor
clean the throttle body
PVC valve
change the ECM module
Not sure how plausible some of those are, but at least they give you some ideas. I would attack the idle air control valve or fast idle valve first. Hope that helps.
Besides the speed sensing indicator, a converter may not lockup for any of the following reasons:
1. Engine temperature too cold - most converters will not lockup until the coolant reaches about 120°F.
2. Overdrive unit locked out - when an automatic overdrive is "locked-out" the torque converter lockup feature will also be locked out. Overdrive lockout would normally only be used when pulling heavy loads, thus the converter is logically "locked out."
3. Under low engine vacuum, heavy part-throttle acceleration is an additional power demand which could result in the engine lugging. To prevent engine lugging, which could result in serious engine damage, a sensor determines if low manifold vacuum exists.
Typical lockup converters connect these sensors in a series creating a "string" arrangement. That is, if one sensor gives a "no" signal then the converter will not lockup.
As for some first hand information, I was only getting overdrive when the weather was warm (70 degrees F plus). In cold weather (most definitely single digits) I had no overdrive. I changed the thermostat, of course also having to drain and fill the coolant (use only distilled water to dilute the coolant-prevents buildup from impurities in common water) and now I have overdrive all the time.
If the car thinks the coolant is too cold you are not going to get overdrive. Also, everyone check your coolant levels. Two friends have noticed less or no heat in their cars and they were both incredibly low on coolant. With winter here, it's a good time to make sure you have enough.
Hope that helps anyone with similar problems.
However, I have had incessant squeaks and rattles from the passenger door and all six pillars (the A,B, and C columns holding up the roof). Most of these have been traced to the way they designed the side curtain airbag system. In one instance, the shield behind the gas canister was banging into the canister and making a metal washer rattling noise. In another, I finally took the passenger door inside panel off myself and insulating every friggin' wire exposed to metal with foam padding, only to find that the lock mechanism by the rod that actuated the door lock was itself rattling (nothing to do but live with that one). Every time I solve one rattle, I find another one. Its the most frustrating aspect of my experience with this car which, for the most part (other than a lot of freeplay in the cheap [non-permissible content removed] plastic shifter with no rods or linkage adjustments that Honda used on V-6 EX 6spd. in '04) I'm really happy with.
Keep on your dealer to fix this stuff - ask him if you can take a service tech for a ride to show him the noise. I didn't pin down the airbag canister shield thing until I bounced a mechanic around White Plains city streets for about 10 minutes.
Good luck!
-FS
-FS
Check the viscosity of the oil. If it drips fast like water, its too thin and needs changing. If it happens again, you need to find the source of the thinning substance (coolant leaking into crankcase possibly).
No problems here with the coin holder. I just use it for the occasional toothpick since much of the eastern seaboard of the USA uses electronic toll collection. I see that you live in Ontario, so that wouldn't apply. I can't remember the last time that I used a coin at a tollbooth.
You'd be putting up posts on the side of buildings like the rest of us too.
-FS
The car stalls each winter...last winter, I replaced the alternator and battery. This winter, I replaced the cables, terminals, and battery. The car STILL STALLS!
It has had a recent tune-up, radiator flush, regular oil changes, and the general works.
Why do I keep losing power? Before, the car just wouldn't start up in cold weather, but now it is starting to stall randomly each day. I still have power (can operate my window and headlights), but I am unable to restart the engine with out a jump.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Also, is it likely that I'm going to end up having to get the part from Honda themselves? I've read that parts one gets at a store like AutoZone don't always work.
Thanks in advance.
I threw on some penetrating oil because... why not, but I don't see how it will even find space to work itself in.
Please advise. Thanks
Still, in either case, without removing the head you're taking a big chance on damage that debris could cause. Good luck.
Any idea how long those plugs were in there?!?!?
PS: I ran across the following doing a google for your problem (see especially #3 and #6):
Spark Plug Replacement Tips . . .
"1. Always allow an engine to cool down before removing spark plugs from aluminum cylinder heads.
2. Always gently blow sand and other debris away from spark plugs before removal. And don’t forget those safety glasses!
3. If the spark plug is difficult to turn or is seized in the cylinder head, try tightening the spark plug, then loosening it 1/8-turn while soaking the threads with penetrating fluid.
4. Holding the spark plug in an appropriate length of fuel hose will help prevent contaminating the insulator with grease or other conductive substances.
5. Using a length of fuel hose to start the spark plug in the cylinder head will also help prevent cross threading.
6. Many spark plug manufacturers don’t recommend using anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads. 7. If you prefer using anti-seize compound, apply it to the threads sparingly with a small, soft brush.
8. If the spark plug won’t seat correctly, a special spark plug thread chaser may be used to remove hardened carbon from the cylinder head threads and spark plug seat.
9. Under-torquing spark plugs will cause carbon to accumulate in the threads, making future removal difficult.
10. Over-torquing spark plugs can damage the spark plug internally and ruin the threads in the cylinder head.
11. A light coating of silicone dielectric compound inside the spark plug boot will expedite future removal of the spark plug wires."
Try PB Blaster as the penetrating oil. Supposed to work wonders. There's a thread on a VW forum where this stuff saved the day with a 25 minute soak.
Here's a bit from a Volvo forum:
"Removing Spark Plugs. The spark plug socket used to install plugs is sized 13/16 inch. A swiveling u-joint and three inch extension is also needed. [Query:] One plug is stuck and cannot be removed. How do I get it out? [Response: Steve McChesney] Penetrating oil. [Brickboard penetrating oil preferences: PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, in order of effectiveness.] Soak the area, and run the engine. Let the engine cool off, and soak it again before you go to bed at night. Do this again and again and again. 30 or 40 times over the next few weeks would not be excessive. No need to have the stuff dripping all over, just use a little bit at a time. It's likely that the temperature cycling and vibration of the engine, with gradual penetration of the oil, will loosen the corrosion of the threads. The stuff is magic, but only if you have plenty of faith and patience. [Response: Don Foster] I recently changed plugs on daughter's VW. One plug was dead tight, and when it finally broke free I was sure the aluminum threads were coming with it. Kroil didn't help. I first ran the engine for 15-20 minutes to get it good 'n hot -- aluminum expands at twice the rate of iron. The resistant plug backed right out without damaging the aluminum. [Response: HTH] Soak liberally with KROIL, PB Blaster, or your favorite serious penetrant (don't even think about Liquid Wrench). Start engine, run about 3-5 minutes. CAREFULLY check the temp by putting your hand on the exhaust manifold to feel the heat. You want to stop the engine just as the head is warming up. Hopefully, if you get it just right, the head will have warmed up but the plug will not be at normal operating temp and the hole will be a little bigger than the plug. At least that's what I theorized and it worked for me."
From the same forum on Anti-Seize Compounds:
"Tightening, Torque and Anti-Seize Compounds:
[From AC Delco] Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.
[From NGK] Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind. An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur. The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when it’s hot and installation may prove difficult. [From Denso] If threads are lubricated, the torque value should be reduced by approximately 1/2 to avoid over-tightening.
[Tip from Underhood Service Magazine] One vehicle manufacturer warns against using antiseize because antiseize acts like a lubricant and may allow the plugs to be overtightened, which can damage the threads. If you do use antiseize on the threads, their advice is to reduce the tightening torque on the plugs 40%.
[Tip from Autolite] We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time. You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals. "
Taking off the head is something I would really rather not do. It looks like an immense pain according to service manual. I'm going to try and rig up a screen that I can slip past the barrel to catch the debris (which I'm hoping will be minimal anyway). Depends how much clearance I have.
Thanks also to altair for the help. I ran across some of the same web info you did. Thanks again. I called around a few places just after it happened and they basically said the surest way was to pull the head and remove it. A trusted (but distant) mechanic said the best way was to pull the head to protect the cylinder, but he said it was probably worth a try to extract it considering my situation. He also agreed about the easy out.
Thanks for the anti-seize info also. Seems like it will just be a torque wrench next time around.
I'm waiting on the penetrating oil and on finding the right tools. I'll post back when it's done just in case anyone is curious.
My condolences and please post back with your final solution. Definitely a tough situation!
Secondly, the front tires constantly spray the lower body panels with dirt resulting in a nice detailing job having to be redone on a regular basis. I have front splash guards but they do not do a good job as they do not project out from the wheelwell to catch the dirt or water.
Any suggestions would be welcome
1. the battery charging system was not working;
2. the battery was in bad condition, which caused the lost of alternator.
As suggested, we have the alternator and battery replaced (total cost about C$670 including tax), the car is okay now and thanks god there is nothing wrong with transmission. What i can't understand is how the bad battery could break the alternator down? Also there is a consequent problem now with the audio system as the battery has been replaced with new one. Since the previous owner lost the audio code so we don't have it then the dealer couldn't call back the audio system unless we purchase a new code (a extra cost). Today called the dealer which sold the accord originally and was told normally they don't save the code for customers. i just wonder if we can find this code back at any place inside the car. Any advise will be APPRECIATED!
1) Look for a reference code sticker (not the radio code itself, btw) stuck inside your glovebox or under the fusebox cover in the engine compartment. Call your dealer and give them the code with your VIN, and they should provide the radio code free.
2) If above doesn't apply, remove the radio using instructions from
http://www.handa-accessories.com/accelect01.html and get the radio's serial and reference #s from the label. Call a dealer and provide those numbers, including presumably your VIN.
3) If 1 and 2 are duds, shell out $25.00 to this site to get your code: http://hondaunlockcodes.homestead.com/
About the battery breaking the alternator, this is possible but not probable unless a grossly underrated battery was installed previously so as to overwork the alternator.
It's probably more a defective alternator that had been taxing the battery, making you replace both.
Just make sure this time that the right (meaning, with the correct amperage rating) battery was installed.