I posted in the past re brake dust problems in particular with the front wheels but got no response. This problem is a real pain in the butt as the dust appears on the mag wheels about 3 days after you clean it off which detracts from the appearance of the car. Why have mag wheels if they are always dirty from the dust. My dealer says there is nothing to be done.
We have a 92 Accord with 128K. It still has the orginal alternator which still works great. Who knows how long it will last though? The same goes for the clutch and air compressor, too? We just replaced the oil pan and starter.
I barely have 800miles on this car & I noticed that the brake rotors are rusting very badly. I had change the OEM wheels/tires to a better ones last Christmas day & it rain 2 days later when I noticed the rotors. Come to find out the rotors are not plated to protect it from rusting. I ask the dealer about this but they said they can replace it with same rotors that came from the factory which means same rusting problem. Really disappointed about this since this was my 1st Accord & my new wheels/tires looks very bad since the rain has not let up in the bay area. Am I the only one noticing this or everyone has the same problem? I really like the way this car feels & handles but the parts seems to be on the cheap side. I am now seriously thinking about changing the rotors & brake pads to aftermarket since the brakes are grabby. My wifes 2004 CRV does not rust too much but the I also find the OEM brakes too grabby. I had since replace her brake pads to a better aftermarket one & the brakes are a lot smoother now, a really big differences.
I don't know how bad the dust from your original equipment brake pads is looking, but be warned that ceramics also give dust.
I put one brand of ceramic pads on 2nd car as replacements from the company that doesn't advertise loudly. They till give off a dark gray dust that slowly coats my OE wheels, but about 15% as bad as the standard pads did.
A part guy explained that the dust from ceramics is a light gray. It still coats the chrome on my new car with factory ceramics. But it doesn't show up like the dark dusts do.
I believe I saw an ad for a coating or wax for wheels that didn't hold the brake dust as much. That could help keep them cleaner for a few days before it shows up. Anyone know about that treament?
I have a 2000 Accord, and have had the warped rotor problems. Rotors were turned, then I was told they had to be replaced....now a little over a year later they are warping again - 2nd set of rotors! The cost was nearly $1,000. First time I took it in for the problem I was told I had applied the brakes really hard during wet conditions and the water got on the rotors....that is bull, of course.
My husband took the car in when they replaced the rotors....I should have been on my toes and called Honda then. They will certainly be hearing from me now....Honda has regional offices for cust. relations - and there is one near me.
I have a 2000 Accord, and have had the warped rotor problems. Rotors were turned - twice, then I was told they had to be replaced....now a little over a year later they are warping again - 2nd set of rotors! The replaement cost was nearly $1,000. First time I took it in for the problem I was told I had applied the brakes really hard during wet conditions and the water got on the rotors....that is bull, of course.
My husband took the car in when they replaced the rotors....I should have been on my toes and called Honda then. They will certainly be hearing from me now....Honda has regional offices for cust. relations - and there is one near me.
THIS IS INEXCUSABLE ON THE PART OF HONDA. The problem has been going on for years on new models. Just what is their problem? What happened to their commitment to quality?
My 2003 Accord EX 4cyl auto has had too many brake problems. At 32k mi the front pads and rotors have been replaced. The rear rotors have been machined to remove the heavy rust occuring on the outermost edges of the rotors. This was all done under warranty but, I cannot see replacing all the brakes every 30,000 miles. I'm looking to trade in this vehicle for something more reliable.
All my problems started with the rear passenger side brakes squeaking at about 25,000 miles. Back then they found "nothing" wrong.
There is an annoying rattle coming from somewhere in the central dash.
The front pillars or windshield is rattling at around 32 degrees fahrenheit.
The front passenger speaker has been replaced for static.
The vehicle has had 2 recalls for unrelated issues mentioned here.
Don't have your windows down if there is any water on the roof or it will end up all over you or the passenger when you turn a corner.
One day I found about a coffeecup-worth of water in the trunk, never found out how it got there.
Hi, just wanting an update on your '89 Accord problem. I am experiencing the same problem with my '93 Accord, and I losing my mind trying to figure out what I need to do. We replaced the fuel filter, and the relay switch under the dash. I just replaced the igniter switch about 6 months ago, so I assume this isn't the problem. Sometimes it starts and runs for 30 minutes, sometimes 30 seconds. Usually stalls when I begin to stop. Did replacing the cap/rotor and plug wires fix your problem?
I assume you've already kicked yourself for bucking conventional wisdom and buying a first-model-year car. Given the many things that can go wrong on the way to bringing a new design to market, it's not surprising that even Honda can't produce a new car perfectly the first time out.
I see that you've ruled out the Camry/ES330 so what car do you feel enough confidence in to trade in your Accord EX for? Just curious.
I purchased a 2000 Accord Coupe LX V6 yesterday and I love the car. I wanted a manual but I got a real steal on the auto and I don't know that a manual was available with the V6 in 2000. Anyway, I've read that the tranny has reliability problems in 2000. I bought it with 76,000 miles on it and I'm not sure if the previous owners had any problems with it but it seems well maintained and clean. Should I be expecting to get a new tranny? I know I'm covered until 100k miles or 7 years though. When to most of them go?
The dealer is right, not much you can do about the brake dust. Even if you replace the pads to ceramic, same results but not as bad. I have a billet alloy wheels on my Chevy Truck & I have been detailing the wheels almost on a monthly basis since it is harder to clean this kind of wheels since it does not have a clear coat on it. One thing I find very helpful is to apply a coat of wax on the wheels, This makes it a little easier to clean. Right now, I really have a problem with the rotors on my 2005 Accord. The rotors are rusting much too fast & rust is transferring to my new wheels & it looks ugly. Can't do much anything about it cause the dealer can replace the rotors but with the same rotors as before which means same rusting dillema. I made up my mind to replace to aftermarket since I also did this to my Chevy truck & I have also replace the brake pads on wife's 2004 CRV to aftermarket which made the brake a lot smoother than the OEM.
I have the same problem with my 98 automatic V6 accord, hesitating to shift on other gear. I just sent it to the shop. I wonder why they did not included 98 model to the recall of 2003 and 2004. and I hope the jet theyre going to install on 03 and 04 will applicable to 98 model. I dont mind if I have to pay it as long as it solved the defect of the transmission.
I have a 98 accord V6 automatic, and I'm experiencing hesitation of the transmission moving on other speed. and scan the car it shows P0740 TCC circuit malfunction (thanks to autozone) I just sent the car for repair and I dont know how long this rebuilt transmission will last. I hope the jet they will install to recalled 03 and 04 V6 accord automatic will be applicable to on my transmission. I don't mine if I have to pay it as long as it will increase the life of my transmission.
on the friction surface when it rains. The open design of the Accord's wheels allows more rain in therefore more rust. It's only surface rust though and is harmless.
As I said above, I have a 2000 LX Coupe V6...after I did some research I saw the problems people are describing with the torque converters. I have the same problem (shuddering at around 35 Mph with light pressure on gas). Does this warrant replacement of the entire transmission under the extended warranty as someone suggested? Or will I just get a new torque converter? Would that be covered (I have 76k miles)? Is this a sign the tranny is going to blow soon?
Maybe I should look again, but I think the compact spare tire in my '04 EX-L is located in the well under the trunk floor UPSIDE DOWN! Is that how it's supposed to be?
If so, then it's necessary to remove the spare tire to check/retain tire pressure (60 pounds, I think).
If the spare is stored with its valve stem under the tire, it's almost a sure thing that the spare won't be checked when the car is serviced or by the owner, either.
I'm having the same problem. I've got 8600 miles on mine. I know it's the driver visor. If I hold it down, even slightly, the noise stops. I think the mirror in the visor is loose. It seems to happen in sub-freezing temperatures (my garage isn't insulated). By the time I get to the dealer the car is warm, and of course they don't hear it. Let me know what happens.
I do not agree with this since I have a Chevy truck with aftermarket rotors installed since '97 & I can barely can see any rust spot on it. The problem with the Accord rotors is that they are not plated, I pulled one out this afternoon & the rust are already in the inner fins of the front rotors. So instead of whinning about this, I will be replacing all rotors/pads with brand name aftermarkets which is better than OEM. This is just me, it's fun to change things for the better but costly$$. Oh Well!
Every car I've owned had rotors that rust in damp weather. The worst times seem to be cool, humdi weather like we are having now - the air is never dry and the rotors form a sheen of rust overnight, even if it hasn't actually rained.
I'm not sure how plating the rotor would improve the situation since the face of the rotor wears away with brake usage. The plating would simply wear away. Plating may stop rust formation on the hub and edges of the rotor, but that strictly cosmetic. But whatever floats your boat!
My wife and I are having the same problem with an 05 we bought at the beginning of December. When we mentioned the problem to the technician he asked us to drive it to about 1,000 miles to see if it would work itself out. No luck as of 605 miles. Did you ever get the problem corrected, and if so at which dealership?
It's not necessarily water, per se, but moisture/humidity. In the spring, the rotors on our cars will have a fine layer of rust on them just from condensation of dew in the air. If the car has dew on it, the rotors typically have rust on them. I wouldn't sweat this at all....
Got my car back from my mechanic today after having tried an easy out, various extensions, and socket wrenches to remove what was left of a spark plug stuck in my cylinder head. I personally broke a socket wrench and rounded off three extensions trying to get the darn thing out. But after 1 hr of tugging, various stops for penetrating oil (i tried that too), and 2 people pulling....it finally came out. My car seems ok for now. My mechanic says it basically came out in one piece, I'm just happy to have it back and running again though. Cost me $90 but considering what I tried, it was well worth it.
This still doesn't address why I had oil on top of my plugs so tomorrow I will be changing the valve cover gasket and the individual gaskets on the plugs (O-rings). Also, I will be switching to 10W30.
I should have changed the plugs when I bought the car....next time....I will. Got so caught up with the timing belt change....
Anyway, at least this story ended well. Happy motoring all.
I am the one with major complaints about interior rattles above visor & maybe pillars?? I am wondering if this is limited to a specific location where they are manufactured. I have a 'J' vin # which indicates it was made in Japan. I will be taking it into the dealer they will tear apart the headliner place insulation is what I've been told. I appreciate any assistance anyone maybe give to me on this subject. I do see this is not an isolated incident for the 2005. But maybe isolated to where they are coming from??? Thank you in advance.
I don't know what is causing the cracks in the plastic around the stereo on our 92 Accord but it is happening? I don't know what to do to fix it either? I tried some PVC cement and it didn't help.
Yes, I also own an 03 Accord EXL-NAV I4 manual and I've been getting on average 24miles/gallon for the last 4 months. Keep in mind I mostly drive on the FWY so I should get at least 30m/g. My accord is now 2 years old with about 45K miles. So far I've taken my honda into the dealer twice and complained. One time they said my tires were low, which made no difference in my gas mileage so I'm guessing my tires weren't. On my second visit they said my air filter was dirty so we changed that and still the same problem. I'll be taking my honda back in this week.
I bought an '04 Accord EX-L (4cyl Auto) back in October and have generally been pretty happy with it. It does have a couple of little squeaks and buzzes and starting was pretty hard when the temp hit -20C here recently.
But what I want to ask about is the windshield defogger. It seems that as long as the heat is on and the fan blowing there's always some (warm) air coming out of the windshield vents even when the controls are set to feet only. The problem with this is that it causes salt spray at the bottom of the windshied to dry up quickly whereas the rest of the windshield can be wiped clean just with the road spray, so I end up using a lot of windshield washer fluid. Are all the new Accords like this? My last car did this too, but it was a cheap-[non-permissible content removed] '96 Sentra. It's a fairly minor problem, but annoying - it should shut off the air flow to the defogger completely IMO.
I recenty got a new accord and I am hearing a vibrating or cranking noise when I am going arong 2000 rpm. I have less than 1000 miles in the car. Has anyone else had this problem?
I have a 98 Accord. I had it in for an oil change 2000 miles ago. Now the check engine light is on, and when I checked the oil there is virtually none. The oil pressure light has not come on. Is it possible that they didnt actually change the oil? What else could it be. It runs fine, not sluggish and no black smoke. Help?
I own a 93 Accord V6 and have averaged over 28 mpg for 31K. Must be the Leather and NAV affecting your mileage. Seriously, Honda, or any skilled mechanic, should be able to find the real reason for your poor mileage. Hope you will keep the forum posted.
I own a 03 Accord V6 and have averaged over 28 mpg for 31K. Must be the Leather and NAV affecting your mileage. Seriously, Honda, or any skilled mechanic, should be able to find the real reason for your poor mileage. Hope you will keep the forum posted.
If your engine takes 4.5 quarts of oil (with filter change) then nothing showing on the dip stick indicates that you're at 3 quarts or less. If the oil pressure light never came on, then I wouldn't worry too much just yet.
If the CEL is on, I'd go to AutoZone and ask them to read the trouble code for free. Their answer may help explain why your oil level is so low.
I do my own oil changes so that I know exactly what was done, how it was done, and four times a year I get a good look at the underside of my cars to see what's going on. To me, it's well worth the effort.
My your mechanic is like one of the Honda dealers here in the Pittsburgh area - after any fluid change performed you will find that the fluid is always only at the lowest level. Get the oil changed? The oil will be filled only to the bottom of the acceptable range on the dipstick. There's no margin for error or consumption.
Get the coolant changed? There will be no coolant in the overflow bottle - once the car is started and brought up to temperature, the coolant level in the radiator drops down almost 1.5 quarts. And the service writer would balk at adding any fluid to the overflow - "Honda says not to do that."
Thanks to their cost-cutting measures, I do almost all my own maintenance now.
One of my cars is also a '98, 4cyl VTEC, if it matters. You've gotten good advise about the oil changes. One thing I know is that one more qt will bring you to the full level, but after say 10 hrs of settling, it may look like too much. Start with adding 1/2 a qt and see. That's been my experience and apparently too much is also not good.
I am trying to locate the VSS on my 98 Accord 5 speed. I understand it is on the transaxle but I cannot see it from above or below. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 96 Accord EX with 184,000 miles on it. I had the timing belt replaced somewhere around 90,000. Is it recommended to replace the timing belt every 100k miles? Also, the car still has the original water pump, is this something that needs to be replaced as well although I have never had any problems with it. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
You should have both replaced ASAP! It won't cost any extra labor to have the water pump replaced when you have the timing belt changed. It's hard to believe a water pump would last so long? A lot of service departments have a package where they will replace all the belts and the water pump for a special price but it isn't cheap. If you have any seal leaks get them fixed now too.
Thank you clovisguy for your response! I am far from being a mechanic so I don't know a whole lot about recommendations on cars. I have stopped taking it to the dealership since I don't ever have any problems with it. I have a personal mechanic fix the problems when they occur. I have however had to have my radiator replaced about a year ago since it started leaking.
I HAVE A 2001 HONDA ACCORD AND WHEN I TURN TO THE RIGHT I HEAR CLUNK NOISE AROUND THE FRONT WHEEL. I PULLED THE WHEEL OFF TO INSPECT THE CALIBER OR SEE IF THERE WAS ANYTHING LOOSE. I DID NOT SEE ANYTHING OUT OF PLACE. I SAW THAT THE STRUT MAY BE LEAKING OIL (IF IT HAS OIL). WHAT COULD IT BE? ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE APPRECIATED.
I got my new 2005 Accord I4 LX Sedan on Dec. 30, 2004. I have less than 300 miles in the odometer. That noise occurred on my car, especially when accelerating from 10 to 30 miles/h (as you said around 2000 rpm), or starting from a full traffic stop.
Comments
please tell me the right amperage rating it shall be for the V6 accord battery so i can double check. thanks again.
700 COLD CRANKING AMPS (875 CRANKING AMPS)
I don't know how bad the dust from your original equipment brake pads is looking, but be warned that ceramics also give dust.
I put one brand of ceramic pads on 2nd car as replacements from the company that doesn't advertise loudly. They till give off a dark gray dust that slowly coats my OE wheels, but about 15% as bad as the standard pads did.
A part guy explained that the dust from ceramics is a light gray. It still coats the chrome on my new car with factory ceramics. But it doesn't show up like the dark dusts do.
I believe I saw an ad for a coating or wax for wheels that didn't hold the brake dust as much. That could help keep them cleaner for a few days before it shows up. Anyone know about that treament?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My husband took the car in when they replaced the rotors....I should have been on my toes and called Honda then. They will certainly be hearing from me now....Honda has regional offices for cust. relations - and there is one near me.
My husband took the car in when they replaced the rotors....I should have been on my toes and called Honda then. They will certainly be hearing from me now....Honda has regional offices for cust. relations - and there is one near me.
THIS IS INEXCUSABLE ON THE PART OF HONDA. The problem has been going on for years on new models. Just what is their problem? What happened to their commitment to quality?
All my problems started with the rear passenger side brakes squeaking at about 25,000 miles. Back then they found "nothing" wrong.
There is an annoying rattle coming from somewhere in the central dash.
The front pillars or windshield is rattling at around 32 degrees fahrenheit.
The front passenger speaker has been replaced for static.
The vehicle has had 2 recalls for unrelated issues mentioned here.
Don't have your windows down if there is any water on the roof or it will end up all over you or the passenger when you turn a corner.
One day I found about a coffeecup-worth of water in the trunk, never found out how it got there.
Scott
Helphelphelphelphelp!
Cee
I see that you've ruled out the Camry/ES330 so what car do you feel enough confidence in to trade in your Accord EX for? Just curious.
If so, then it's necessary to remove the spare tire to check/retain tire pressure (60 pounds, I think).
If the spare is stored with its valve stem under the tire, it's almost a sure thing that the spare won't be checked when the car is serviced or by the owner, either.
Am I nuts, or is Honda?........Richard
Pain in the a#$!!
I'm not sure how plating the rotor would improve the situation since the face of the rotor wears away with brake usage. The plating would simply wear away. Plating may stop rust formation on the hub and edges of the rotor, but that strictly cosmetic. But whatever floats your boat!
This still doesn't address why I had oil on top of my plugs so tomorrow I will be changing the valve cover gasket and the individual gaskets on the plugs (O-rings). Also, I will be switching to 10W30.
I should have changed the plugs when I bought the car....next time....I will. Got so caught up with the timing belt change....
Anyway, at least this story ended well. Happy motoring all.
Given the number of posts on this same subject, it seems odd that you write "I am the one with major complaints about interior rattles".
It's a common problem.
But what I want to ask about is the windshield defogger. It seems that as long as the heat is on and the fan blowing there's always some (warm) air coming out of the windshield vents even when the controls are set to feet only. The problem with this is that it causes salt spray at the bottom of the windshied to dry up quickly whereas the rest of the windshield can be wiped clean just with the road spray, so I end up using a lot of windshield washer fluid. Are all the new Accords like this? My last car did this too, but it was a cheap-[non-permissible content removed] '96 Sentra. It's a fairly minor problem, but annoying - it should shut off the air flow to the defogger completely IMO.
I recenty got a new accord and I am hearing a vibrating or cranking noise when I am going arong 2000 rpm. I have less than 1000 miles in the car. Has anyone else had this problem?
Can it be resolved?
Thanks, Jay
If your engine takes 4.5 quarts of oil (with filter change) then nothing showing on the dip stick indicates that you're at 3 quarts or less. If the oil pressure light never came on, then I wouldn't worry too much just yet.
If the CEL is on, I'd go to AutoZone and ask them to read the trouble code for free. Their answer may help explain why your oil level is so low.
I do my own oil changes so that I know exactly what was done, how it was done, and four times a year I get a good look at the underside of my cars to see what's going on. To me, it's well worth the effort.
Get the coolant changed? There will be no coolant in the overflow bottle - once the car is started and brought up to temperature, the coolant level in the radiator drops down almost 1.5 quarts. And the service writer would balk at adding any fluid to the overflow - "Honda says not to do that."
Thanks to their cost-cutting measures, I do almost all my own maintenance now.
I have a 96 Accord EX with 184,000 miles on it. I had the timing belt replaced somewhere around 90,000. Is it recommended to replace the timing belt every 100k miles? Also, the car still has the original water pump, is this something that needs to be replaced as well although I have never had any problems with it. Any help would greatly be appreciated.