Chances are it's a component failure in your electrical system. Since you were able to restart, you can rule out the battery. If it's not a broken drive belt, it's probably the alternator. The CEL episode is most likely unrelated to the current problem, imo.
I've purchase a 2005 LX 4 cylinder 4-door and have about 800 miles. I am also having a problem with my car drifting to right. I've been correcting the steering wheel to left to compensate the drift. Took my car into the dealer and two tech guys drove it say it drive stright and it's not out of the alignment. (How could they tell by driving less than 10 miles, when I drove it lot longer?) Anyways, I ask them to put on the alignment to amuse me. They came back and said my right front and rear left WAS out of alignment and corrected. It made me feel better that I wasn't going crazy.
After a day, it's doing the same thing. Does anyone know what could be casuing this problem and ways to correct it. Should I take it to tire shop and pay for the new alignment myself to see if it's out of the alignment? If so, then I could prove that car is defective.
Any inputs or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
A dealer doesn't keep a normal replacement item in stock.
So the customer is supposed to pay for shipping to get the part to the dealer due to the dealer's incompetence??? I don't think so.
Why not get it from a neighboring dealer just like tire stores get tires from other stores or wholesalers and they're deliver by a Rush delivery runner while you're waiting at the store?
I got a freight/overnight shipping charge for a P/S pressure hose for my 89 Accord. I could leave the car on their lot for a few days and wait for the part to come. I couldn't. Could you?
<<<Why not get it from a neighboring dealer just like tire stores get tires from other stores >>>
Get real! They are not chained stores like BJ, NTB or Speedy. Will Honda wholesalers deliver parts by a rush deliver runner if they are hundred miles away from the dealer?
Get real yourself. The GM dealers in this area help each other when a needed part is at one dealer but not at the one doing the service. Wouldn't Honda/Acura dealers, who aren't hundreds of miles apart, help each other? You're saying "guess not."
>I couldn't. Could you?
Guess your dealer just found another cost of doing business expense to pass on to the customer if the customer will stand for it!
The dealer ended up letting me pay about $700 for the mileage on my car and they gave me a new one since they were not able to fix the creaking noise. They charged me 39 cents a mile.
To date, I have had my '04 EX to the dealer 5 times for the same noise/rattle complaint with no success. I haven't even mentioned the vibrations coming from the passenger side door. I'm still trying to get the first complaint solved. Have pretty much come to the conclusion that I will have to live with it or get rid of the car.
I bout my Honda Accord EX –L without navigation system about a week ago. Today I had a first trip to San Francisco from San Jose, CA and I realized that car to noisy and bumpy too. I was driving Honda Accord LX 1993 up to 2005 before and it was not noisy like my new car. This car has right now only 200 mls. When I listened NPR radio station it was audio noise not like on my old Honda. When I was driving about 60 mph and tried to get 70 mph I was filling noise like a little turbine work on reactive airplane. Please advise what to do? If this design like that I am willing to sell this car right away because I have lease for SAAB-95 sedan, 2003 which is not noisy at all but only expensive in service --- that why I bout recently Honda.
Make sure your tires are not over-inflated. COLD tire pressure should be 32 psi front and 30 psi rear, I think--it's printed on the door frame (I usually over-inflate by a couple of pounds anyway).
Also, your tires need a break-in period and I think my 2004 EX-L with about 3,700 miles on it rides less harshly than when it was new. The Accord isn't a soft riding car, but shouldn't be as hard as you describe.
With respect to airplane noises, do you mean sounds from the radio or the engine? The Accord radio is excellent in XM mode and just fair in this area (San Francisco) when using AM or FM.
The Accord's 4 cylinder engine is one of the smoothest and quietest fours on the market. A sound like a "reactive airplane" (whatever the #@%$* that is) is most unusual......Richard
he's likely referecning the wind noise. the new accord is a pretty noisy car at 70mph IMO. compared to what I've had anyway. no surprise to me as we test drove an 03 Oddy when we were in the market and I thought the same thing about it back then. I came out of an 02 Trailblazer which was extremely quiet and road very nicely for an SUV.
"The Accord's 4 cylinder engine is one of the smoothest and quietest fours on the market. A sound like a "reactive airplane" (whatever the #@%$* that is) is most unusual......Richard "
I checked out the tires. The pressure is "ok", and there seems to be a lot of rubber on the tires, but the tires might be ageing in terms of material, or there might be an "issue" with the suspension, or it might just be my perception and / or age.
If the tires had a lot of siping when the tread was new, that helps keep the tires quiet. If the sipes don't go deep, once you're worn past the siping, the tires get noisier. I had that happen with X-Ones. Also a lot of snow traction was lost when the sipes were gone.
I purchased my 2005 Accord Sedan EX V6 this past December and just the other day when I was backing out of my garage I noticed that the right rear passenger side on the back seat the leather does not go all the way down to meet the seat and I can actually see the silver metal - about the size of a half dollar. (I didn’t notice this when I purchased the car because they just took off the plastic and I was more concerned with the outside.)
I only noticed this now because my daughter had a blanket in the back seat since the leather was too cold for her and then the blanket was moved. Has anyone else noticed this on their cars?
I haven’t contacted the dealership yet and I'm not sure what can be done about this. Any suggestions? Thanks.
I went through this just a few weeks ago after my wife's car(2003 EXV6 sedan) was in a minor fender bender. No damage except a cracked bumper cover. I contemplated on an aftermarket bumper but after some researching I decided on a Honda OEM bumper. Most body shops said that they would have to strip the primer that comes on the aftermarket bumpers anyways, because the paint won't stick to it and aftermarket bumpers may have fitment issues.
The aftermarket bumper was $130 locally and Honda bumper was $253 at the dealer. Honda bumper on the internet was $189 plus shipping $40-$50, which is just a little less than what the dealer was selling it for.
I spent $253 before tax on the bumper and $135 on paint with lifetime warranty. I saved on paint because my dealer also has an in-house body shop. Most body shops were quoting me around $300 to have the bumper painted.
You seem to be describing a very common situation when someone may have had the need to work under the seat (such as when trying to retrieve a safety belt latch that may have slipped down there). It sounds like the seat bottom is not in its proper position. It will be a simple matter for someone to just reposition the seat bottom and your gap will disappear.
My 2003 accord lx wiper drivers side one is hitting the A pillar when it is working. Is this normal? Is there an adjustment that I can make? Or do I need to take it to the dealer? It is still under warranty 34k miles. Has anyone else had this problem and what did you do to fix it? It is annoying when you are driving fast on the highway and raining hard and hear this hitting.
A rock hit my new 2005 accord winshield, right in front of the driver's side. There is a small crack which I am worried about. Any advice on how to fix this issue w/o replacing the entire glass? Does any warranty cover this? I only had this car for 3months. Thanks in advance!
I just bought an 05 Accord. Love it, but on rough roads the dash is rattling in the left hand corner next to the VIN plate. I think it's either the VIN plate, the speaker or there is not enough insulation between the dash and the window and the window is smacking against the glass. Anyone ever have a similar problem?
Check your insurance policy. You probably are paying for full glass coverage, it doesn't cost much. Cracks can spread. Your state may have a motor vehicle regulation requiring such repairs.
it's a common issue since 03. I had both sides of my dash giving me a tapping noise of some sort. I did a odd type fix that worked. I stuff a heavy paper towel in between the dash and a-pillar. pushed it all the way in and it either cushioned the parts or wedged it in enough, but haven't had any noises there since.
I have an 2002 Accord sedan. When it rains, water starts to gather underneath the front passenger seat around the rear right corner of the seat where it bolts onto the car and seeps down to the rear passenger floor. I cant not find where the water is coming from. I took off the front, rear and side plastic panels and cant find any traces of water. I do have a bike rack on top but there are no water marks anywhere in the interior of the car. Any one had this happen to them? Please email me! Thanks a plenty!
I had a similar problem on my previous car and I wedged a small sponge between the dash and the windshield (all the way down so I couldn't see it) and the problem went away.
Not to be anal, but would you tell me exactly what you did when you silicone sprayed the edges of your windshield? I had my 2004 EX-V6 6 spd. winshield re-sealed, but it is still crackling now and then. I mentioned your psot to the dealer and he asked me to try and find out if you did anything else special or unusual. What brand of silicone spray did you use? How far out did you pull the weather strip? Is there anything else I or my dealer should know?
I've bought my Honda Accord 2005-EX L a couple of weeks ago. I like this car very much, however, I noticed a little problem. When I drive on a highway and go above 55-60 MPH I hear a high whistling noise. But it only happens when I press on the accelarator, when I release it the noise goes away. This is definitely not a wind noise and this wistling sound only comes on when I drive at higher speeds. Did anyone ever experienced this kind of problem before?
I've had good luck with having small nicks or cracks repaired rather than replacing the entire windshield. My insurance company reimburses the full cost of the repair(usually $35-$40 range). At some point I'll replace the windshield but not until I've repaired two or three small dings. Here in TX there are a lot of cracked windshields and it just doesn't make sense to replace every one that's nicked. Large cracks on the other hand are a different story.
Elaborating on check with your insurance.-- Many insurance company's will pay to repair the windshield, if the chip/crack can be repaired, but will cost you the deductible if they have to replace it. The rule of thumb I've heard is if you can fit a quarter over the chip/cracked area, its probably repairable. Good luck
I have a 2003 Honda Accord EX, there is a metal rattling noise in the engine/front part of the car that starts at around 50 mph, when it first started over a year ago it wouldn't sound unless you were doing about 65 mph. The noise sounds like something metal is broken and when going at fast speeds I guess the wind makes it start rattling. I've had it at Honda Service 3 times and they agree that it's there, but they can not locate the problem. It's very irritating and just one of the issues I have with this particular model. I am a 4th time Honda Accord buyer since 1986 and not too happy with this model year. If anyone has experienced this rattling also, please respond, thank you.
On each side of the windshield I just pryed up the weatherstripping so that the rubber bottom of it was just barely off the winshield (a couple milimeters) and, using the red straw attachment to the can sprayed the silicone stuff all along there.
I had a 2001 Acura CL-S that had a whistling noise, although I don't know if I would consider it high pitched. After Acura replaced the transmission the noise disappeared. I purchased a 2005 Acura TL a few weeks ago and at about 100 miles, I noticed a grinding and whistling noise. The car is currently at Acura service for a transmission replacement. Anyone know if HOA uses same transmission in Accord V6 and TL?
We attempted to get into an Accord V6 EX, but turned to the TL after four Accords that we test drove had the windshield popping/snapping noise issue. Very disappointing in what is supposed to be a rock solid manufacturer.
Hi there. I might be able to shed some light on your troubles. I have a 2004 accord v-6 with navi and leather interior. I had a creeking/squeaking in the drivers side door. I was able to silence the squeak by pressing in different of the door to find the sweet spot and silence the noise. I took it to the dealer and of course they couldn't find anything wrong. Come to find out that the door lock plunger (the lock that pops up in the door) is attached to a cable that is wrapped in plastic or rubber but rests against guess what? Styrofoam. That is what was causing the noise in the drivers side door. I wrapped the cable with spiral wrap and viola, no noise.. good luck
I was feeling exactly the same. I am feeling also when I am starting and getting about 20 mph I acan hear engine very much. When I am riching about 60-70 mph I have to increase radio volume becase I can't hear good. One thing more - my radio working not clear when I am driving about 60 -70 mph (NPR station). Is it a common problem or it's by design.
I have the same problem with the volume control, except mine goes down in volume no matter what setting I put it in. I took it in once and they supposedly fixed it by dimpling the copper ring on audio controls. This did not work and I am taking it in again in one week. Did you fix your problem?
The door lock plunger (lock tab) in my 03EXV6 front passenger door came loose or broke. I am going to have it fixed at the next oil change. Do you think the dealer needs to remove the inside upper door panel in order to fix it? Thanks.
Thanks. Called dealer to make an appt. They said the same thing. 2-2 1/2 hours to fix it. The lock works fine. Just couldn't use the lock tab to lock/unlock the door.
I have read a lot of post about noises that relate to the ABS system or the traction control system performing self-check tests. I just noticed my first noise last night while trying to drive on snow. When I began to accelerate from a dead stop I heard a popping noise that came from the front end of the car. Seemed to be coming from the passenger side. Some of you have commented on this. It could be the ABS? But, why would ABS engage when accelerating? Some claim it is the Traction control doing some sort of self-check? Has anyone found a true solution or answer to the noise?
I had a loud popping noise this morining for my 03 LXV6 too. I guess it is ABS. Since when I tried to stop, the road is a little bit slippery after a heavy rain.
For the second time, I noticed my 03 LXV6 had only 22.7 mpg. Before this, it had about 23.5 or even 24. The only job done on it was a recent visit to dealer for 15K routine maintenance. Wonder if anything is wrong?
That's only a 3.5% drop. Personally, I find that much divergence between tankfuls all the time. Cold weather, a little longer idle time, caught too many red lights, etc - it all adds up. I'd watch it and see what happens, especially when the weather warms up a bit ('course, you'll probably write back and say you're in South Forida).
Comments
My $.02.
After a day, it's doing the same thing. Does anyone know what could be casuing this problem and ways to correct it. Should I take it to tire shop and pay for the new alignment myself to see if it's out of the alignment? If so, then I could prove that car is defective.
Any inputs or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
If parts are not in stock, a competent dealer will order them and have them shipped overnight. But you will get charged for the shipping.
Check the battery with volt meter. It shoud have 12V with engine off and 14V with engine on.
If it's not 14V, your car may have a failing alternator.
If you don't have a volt meter and live near a NTB store, ask them if you need a new battery since your car's battery light came on.
They will do a charging test (for free) and install a new battery only if needed.
Let's see:
A dealer doesn't keep a normal replacement item in stock.
So the customer is supposed to pay for shipping to get the part to the dealer due to the dealer's incompetence??? I don't think so.
Why not get it from a neighboring dealer just like tire stores get tires from other stores or wholesalers and they're deliver by a Rush delivery runner while you're waiting at the store?
That what a competent Honda dealer should do.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
<<<Why not get it from a neighboring dealer just like tire stores get tires from other stores >>>
Get real! They are not chained stores like BJ, NTB or Speedy. Will Honda wholesalers deliver parts by a rush deliver runner if they are hundred miles away from the dealer?
Get real yourself. The GM dealers in this area help each other when a needed part is at one dealer but not at the one doing the service. Wouldn't Honda/Acura dealers, who aren't hundreds of miles apart, help each other? You're saying "guess not."
>I couldn't. Could you?
Guess your dealer just found another cost of doing business expense to pass on to the customer if the customer will stand for it!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I bout my Honda Accord EX –L without navigation system about a week ago. Today I had a first trip to San Francisco from San Jose, CA and I realized that car to noisy and bumpy too. I was driving Honda Accord LX 1993 up to 2005 before and it was not noisy like my new car. This car has right now only 200 mls. When I listened NPR radio station it was audio noise not like on my old Honda. When I was driving about 60 mph and tried to get 70 mph I was filling noise like a little turbine work on reactive airplane. Please advise what to do? If this design like that I am willing to sell this car right away because I have lease for SAAB-95 sedan, 2003 which is not noisy at all but only expensive in service --- that why I bout recently Honda.
Please tell me your opinion about it.
Also, your tires need a break-in period and I think my 2004 EX-L with about 3,700 miles on it rides less harshly than when it was new. The Accord isn't a soft riding car, but shouldn't be as hard as you describe.
With respect to airplane noises, do you mean sounds from the radio or the engine? The Accord radio is excellent in XM mode and just fair in this area (San Francisco) when using AM or FM.
The Accord's 4 cylinder engine is one of the smoothest and quietest fours on the market. A sound like a "reactive airplane" (whatever the #@%$* that is) is most unusual......Richard
"The Accord's 4 cylinder engine is one of the smoothest and quietest fours on the market. A sound like a "reactive airplane" (whatever the #@%$* that is) is most unusual......Richard "
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I only noticed this now because my daughter had a blanket in the back seat since the leather was too cold for her and then the blanket was moved. Has anyone else noticed this on their cars?
I haven’t contacted the dealership yet and I'm not sure what can be done about this. Any suggestions? Thanks.
The aftermarket bumper was $130 locally and Honda bumper was $253 at the dealer. Honda bumper on the internet was $189 plus shipping $40-$50, which is just a little less than what the dealer was selling it for.
I spent $253 before tax on the bumper and $135 on paint with lifetime warranty. I saved on paint because my dealer also has an in-house body shop. Most body shops were quoting me around $300 to have the bumper painted.
I had a squeaky sound on my 2005 accord.
I could hear the sound only when I'm accelerating or braking really slow.
I just went to the dealershop to fix.
They are saying my sub frame is bent.
Once, i hit the bottom while passing the bump.
I think that caused the problem.
They gave me an estimate, which is at lease 1000 dollors.
Can anybody help? Is the sub frame that expensive?
You seem to be describing a very common situation when someone may have had the need to work under the seat (such as when trying to retrieve a safety belt latch that may have slipped down there). It sounds like the seat bottom is not in its proper position. It will be a simple matter for someone to just reposition the seat bottom and your gap will disappear.
thanks
Check your insurance policy. You probably are paying for full glass coverage, it doesn't cost much. Cracks can spread. Your state may have a motor vehicle regulation requiring such repairs.
I have an 2002 Accord sedan. When it rains, water starts to gather underneath the front passenger seat around the rear right corner of the seat where it bolts onto the car and seeps down to the rear passenger floor. I cant not find where the water is coming from. I took off the front, rear and side plastic panels and cant find any traces of water. I do have a bike rack on top but there are no water marks anywhere in the interior of the car. Any one had this happen to them? Please email me! Thanks a plenty!
email is Klee.mgt02@gtalumni.org
I had a similar problem on my previous car and I wedged a small sponge between the dash and the windshield (all the way down so I couldn't see it) and the problem went away.
It's as simple as ABC.
The "A" pillar is the first vertical pillar holding up the roof, the one between your windshield and front door.
The "B" pillar is the one between the front and rear doors on four-door vehicles.
The "C" pillar is the one at the rear, between the rear door and the rear window.
Thanks!
When a rock hits your windshield it's not a warranty job!
If it hasn't spread, there are places who MAY be able to repair it depending on how bad it is and where it is.
Otherwise, like someone said it's your nickle. Check your comprensive coverage. You will only have to pay the deductable whatever that is.
isellhondas - give him a break. Everyone, even you, had a first time for everything.
I bought a couple pieces of felt and crammed them between the dash and the windshield. The noise seems to have gone away.
Of course, noises never die. Maybe mine left my car and went to bother someone else.
On each side of the windshield I just pryed up the weatherstripping so that the rubber bottom of it was just barely off the winshield (a couple milimeters) and, using the red straw attachment to the can sprayed the silicone stuff all along there.
I can post a pic of myself doing it if you like
We attempted to get into an Accord V6 EX, but turned to the TL after four Accords that we test drove had the windshield popping/snapping noise issue. Very disappointing in what is supposed to be a rock solid manufacturer.
Sound travels. And one thinks the noise comes from the front engine.
I bout my Honda Accord EX-L about 2 weeks ago.
I was feeling exactly the same. I am feeling also when I am starting and getting about 20 mph I acan hear engine very much. When I am riching about 60-70 mph I have to increase radio volume becase I can't hear good. One thing more - my radio working not clear when I am driving about 60 -70 mph (NPR station). Is it a common problem or it's by design.
I will go to dealership and complain about.
Definetly, I can hear a lot of noise.
I ment by that exactly as you wrote - on 70 mph I was feeling whistling noise.
thanks
Do you think the dealer needs to remove the inside upper door panel in order to fix it?
Thanks.
2-2 1/2 hours to fix it. The lock works fine. Just couldn't use the lock tab to lock/unlock the door.
I just noticed my first noise last night while trying to drive on snow. When I began to accelerate from a dead stop I heard a popping noise that came from the front end of the car. Seemed to be coming from the passenger side. Some of you have commented on this. It could be the ABS? But, why would ABS engage when accelerating? Some claim it is the Traction control doing some sort of self-check? Has anyone found a true solution or answer to the noise?