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Comments
My $.02.
After a day, it's doing the same thing. Does anyone know what could be casuing this problem and ways to correct it. Should I take it to tire shop and pay for the new alignment myself to see if it's out of the alignment? If so, then I could prove that car is defective.
Any inputs or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
If parts are not in stock, a competent dealer will order them and have them shipped overnight. But you will get charged for the shipping.
Check the battery with volt meter. It shoud have 12V with engine off and 14V with engine on.
If it's not 14V, your car may have a failing alternator.
If you don't have a volt meter and live near a NTB store, ask them if you need a new battery since your car's battery light came on.
They will do a charging test (for free) and install a new battery only if needed.
Let's see:
A dealer doesn't keep a normal replacement item in stock.
So the customer is supposed to pay for shipping to get the part to the dealer due to the dealer's incompetence??? I don't think so.
Why not get it from a neighboring dealer just like tire stores get tires from other stores or wholesalers and they're deliver by a Rush delivery runner while you're waiting at the store?
That what a competent Honda dealer should do.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
<<<Why not get it from a neighboring dealer just like tire stores get tires from other stores >>>
Get real! They are not chained stores like BJ, NTB or Speedy. Will Honda wholesalers deliver parts by a rush deliver runner if they are hundred miles away from the dealer?
Get real yourself. The GM dealers in this area help each other when a needed part is at one dealer but not at the one doing the service. Wouldn't Honda/Acura dealers, who aren't hundreds of miles apart, help each other? You're saying "guess not."
>I couldn't. Could you?
Guess your dealer just found another cost of doing business expense to pass on to the customer if the customer will stand for it!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I bout my Honda Accord EX –L without navigation system about a week ago. Today I had a first trip to San Francisco from San Jose, CA and I realized that car to noisy and bumpy too. I was driving Honda Accord LX 1993 up to 2005 before and it was not noisy like my new car. This car has right now only 200 mls. When I listened NPR radio station it was audio noise not like on my old Honda. When I was driving about 60 mph and tried to get 70 mph I was filling noise like a little turbine work on reactive airplane. Please advise what to do? If this design like that I am willing to sell this car right away because I have lease for SAAB-95 sedan, 2003 which is not noisy at all but only expensive in service --- that why I bout recently Honda.
Please tell me your opinion about it.
Also, your tires need a break-in period and I think my 2004 EX-L with about 3,700 miles on it rides less harshly than when it was new. The Accord isn't a soft riding car, but shouldn't be as hard as you describe.
With respect to airplane noises, do you mean sounds from the radio or the engine? The Accord radio is excellent in XM mode and just fair in this area (San Francisco) when using AM or FM.
The Accord's 4 cylinder engine is one of the smoothest and quietest fours on the market. A sound like a "reactive airplane" (whatever the #@%$* that is) is most unusual......Richard
"The Accord's 4 cylinder engine is one of the smoothest and quietest fours on the market. A sound like a "reactive airplane" (whatever the #@%$* that is) is most unusual......Richard "
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I only noticed this now because my daughter had a blanket in the back seat since the leather was too cold for her and then the blanket was moved. Has anyone else noticed this on their cars?
I haven’t contacted the dealership yet and I'm not sure what can be done about this. Any suggestions? Thanks.
The aftermarket bumper was $130 locally and Honda bumper was $253 at the dealer. Honda bumper on the internet was $189 plus shipping $40-$50, which is just a little less than what the dealer was selling it for.
I spent $253 before tax on the bumper and $135 on paint with lifetime warranty. I saved on paint because my dealer also has an in-house body shop. Most body shops were quoting me around $300 to have the bumper painted.
I had a squeaky sound on my 2005 accord.
I could hear the sound only when I'm accelerating or braking really slow.
I just went to the dealershop to fix.
They are saying my sub frame is bent.
Once, i hit the bottom while passing the bump.
I think that caused the problem.
They gave me an estimate, which is at lease 1000 dollors.
Can anybody help? Is the sub frame that expensive?
You seem to be describing a very common situation when someone may have had the need to work under the seat (such as when trying to retrieve a safety belt latch that may have slipped down there). It sounds like the seat bottom is not in its proper position. It will be a simple matter for someone to just reposition the seat bottom and your gap will disappear.
thanks
Check your insurance policy. You probably are paying for full glass coverage, it doesn't cost much. Cracks can spread. Your state may have a motor vehicle regulation requiring such repairs.
I have an 2002 Accord sedan. When it rains, water starts to gather underneath the front passenger seat around the rear right corner of the seat where it bolts onto the car and seeps down to the rear passenger floor. I cant not find where the water is coming from. I took off the front, rear and side plastic panels and cant find any traces of water. I do have a bike rack on top but there are no water marks anywhere in the interior of the car. Any one had this happen to them? Please email me! Thanks a plenty!
email is Klee.mgt02@gtalumni.org
I had a similar problem on my previous car and I wedged a small sponge between the dash and the windshield (all the way down so I couldn't see it) and the problem went away.
It's as simple as ABC.
The "A" pillar is the first vertical pillar holding up the roof, the one between your windshield and front door.
The "B" pillar is the one between the front and rear doors on four-door vehicles.
The "C" pillar is the one at the rear, between the rear door and the rear window.
Thanks!
When a rock hits your windshield it's not a warranty job!
If it hasn't spread, there are places who MAY be able to repair it depending on how bad it is and where it is.
Otherwise, like someone said it's your nickle. Check your comprensive coverage. You will only have to pay the deductable whatever that is.
isellhondas - give him a break. Everyone, even you, had a first time for everything.
I bought a couple pieces of felt and crammed them between the dash and the windshield. The noise seems to have gone away.
Of course, noises never die. Maybe mine left my car and went to bother someone else.
On each side of the windshield I just pryed up the weatherstripping so that the rubber bottom of it was just barely off the winshield (a couple milimeters) and, using the red straw attachment to the can sprayed the silicone stuff all along there.
I can post a pic of myself doing it if you like
We attempted to get into an Accord V6 EX, but turned to the TL after four Accords that we test drove had the windshield popping/snapping noise issue. Very disappointing in what is supposed to be a rock solid manufacturer.
Sound travels. And one thinks the noise comes from the front engine.
I bout my Honda Accord EX-L about 2 weeks ago.
I was feeling exactly the same. I am feeling also when I am starting and getting about 20 mph I acan hear engine very much. When I am riching about 60-70 mph I have to increase radio volume becase I can't hear good. One thing more - my radio working not clear when I am driving about 60 -70 mph (NPR station). Is it a common problem or it's by design.
I will go to dealership and complain about.
Definetly, I can hear a lot of noise.
I ment by that exactly as you wrote - on 70 mph I was feeling whistling noise.
thanks
Do you think the dealer needs to remove the inside upper door panel in order to fix it?
Thanks.
2-2 1/2 hours to fix it. The lock works fine. Just couldn't use the lock tab to lock/unlock the door.
I just noticed my first noise last night while trying to drive on snow. When I began to accelerate from a dead stop I heard a popping noise that came from the front end of the car. Seemed to be coming from the passenger side. Some of you have commented on this. It could be the ABS? But, why would ABS engage when accelerating? Some claim it is the Traction control doing some sort of self-check? Has anyone found a true solution or answer to the noise?