Dodge Intrepid Problems

lemontrepid · December 2000

followup to message #28.. I to Recently had 99 Intrepid with 47K miles on it cease and stall. After having it towed to the dealer where purchased 18 months prior, they tore motor apart and are stating that the entire motor was gummed up and a total lose. They are claiming approx $9600.00 for repair. The dealership is claiming that the vehicle was not properly serviced or maintained. Oil was changed every 2-3 months from Local shops. I have obtained service records stating the same. Local mechanic has told me that this type problem is common for intrepids and he will not work on them for this reason. I anticipate a battle with the dealership on Tuesday morning. If anyone has history of same problem and results please let me know.. Luftycm@hotmail.com I have been advised that I might need to contact a lawyer, any sugestions would be appreciated..

lemontrepid · December 2000

follow-up to message #28.. I to Recently had 99 Intrepid with 47K miles on it cease and stall. After having it towed to the dealer where purchased 18 months prior, they tore motor apart and are stating that the entire motor was gummed up and a total lose. They are claiming approx $9600.00 for repair. The dealership is claiming that the vehicle was not properly serviced or maintained. Oil was changed every 2-3 months from Local shops. I have obtained service records stating the same. Local mechanic has told me that this type problem is common for intrepid and he will not work on them for this reason. I anticipate a battle with the dealership on Tuesday morning. If anyone has history of same problem and results please let me know.. Luftycm@hotmail.com I have been advised that I might need to contact a lawyer, any suggestions would be appreciated..

dickaroo · December 2000

I TOO OWN A 99 TREPID WITH 43,000 ON IT, SO FAR NO ENGINE TROUBLES[ KNOCK ON WOOD ] ALONG WITH SEVERAL OTHER PROBLEMS IVE HAD WITH THIS VEHICLE IM HOPING THIS ONE ISN'T THE NEXT,I FEEL FOR YOU,PLEASE LEAVE ME AN E MAIL ABOUT WHAT HAPPENED TUESDAY WHEN YOU TAKE IT TO YOUR DEALER MY E ADDRESS IS Richclays@aol.com
I HAVE A 97 RAM THAT HAD A TRANNY PROBLEM,THEY TOO TOLD ME THAT I HADNT CHANGED THE FLUID, I TOLD THEM I DID IT MYSELF THEY DIDNT BELIEVE ME OF COURSE........ AGAIN I FEEL FOR YOU. SIGNED FELLOW DODGE OWNER [not for long]

mak17f · December 2000

I don't have a solution, but my car does the EXACT same thing. I have a '95, but the problems you describe, fit my car exactly. I also took my car to the shop, with no remedy. The only temporary solution I have found, is to turn the key on and off to the running position (not turning the starter) until they go on. Please E-mail me if you find a permenant solution.
Thanks for your help!

mak17f@mizzou.edu

regalluvr1 · December 2000

I assume you dont have an extended warranty on your 99 Intrepid with shot motor at 47,000 miles.Your dealer is taking you to the cleaners if they want over $9,000 to fix it.You can buy a running 47,000 mile 99 Intrepid off a used car lot for not much more money than that.We had a lemon 94 Intrepid that we got rid of at 27,000 miles.We drive Buick Regals but if I ever got an Intrepid I would deffinitely get an extended warranty.They have too many engine and tranny problems.Good Luck.I feel for you!

rkinion · January 2001

follow up to message #151. The fuse cannot cause your turn signal problem. There is a relay that turns the signal on and off and is usually located on the fuse panel. It should look like a round can. This is probably the cause due to the contacts sticking when cold.

lemontrepid · January 2001

re message # 154.. What other problems have you had with your 99 Intrepid?? I make my case to the dealer tomorrow after I get all my receipts for Service in order.. Again Has anybody heard of this recurring problem with Intrepids, and also what could cause this Gumming of the engine problem.. Looking for help...

j_j_kidd · January 2001

It is very easy to put lemon and Intrepid in the same sentence. The 9600.00 for a Chrysler dealer to replace the engine is just another one of the tactics used to screw the customer. Show the so called dealer your service records, if he still sticks to the same story, don't argue, go to a friendly barrister who should be able to obtain the repairs under warranty plus compensate you for a replacement vehicle during the item your Intrepid was out of service.
Calling Chrysler for help will only add to the aggravation, again the five star program to follow.

1. Obtain service record
2. give the dealer one final chance to perform
3. see the lawyer
4. pick up the vehicle when ready
5. **trade said vehicle for a more reliable product.

** suggestions re replacement, buy a product produced by Toyota, Honda, VW, Ford, GM, Hyundai, Mazda, or for that matter Anything but Chrysler

bottgers · January 2001

I experienced my first problem with my '98 Intrepid, and I took it to the dealership today. It started leaking coolant from the radiator drain hole. It's still under 36k miles, so it's still under the bumper to bumper warranty. I'll keep you posted on this issue as it develops.

connols · January 2001

I have a '98 Intrepid ES that is a company car and checked this forum to see if there were any issues I should be aware of as I consider buying my vehicle from the leasing agency. I have some comments that may be helpful to other people looking for information from an Intrepid user.

I have just passed 30K miles on my '98 and have had very good performance from my vehicle. I have kept up with the services recommended by the leasing company.

I just had a very good experience with a dealership in the Atlanta area that fixed the following problems with my vehicle:

1) The trunk would not open either with the key fob or pressing the interior button (it worked with the key, of course). The dealership determined a faulty "BCM" and replaced it under warranty.

2) I experienced a "whining" sound from my engine during acceleration and highway speeds. Dealership replaced the "idler pulley," also under warranty. My service advisor said that he has seen this issue a number of times, but I have not seen it in this forum.

3) I had also experienced some vibrations during braking. The dealer performed a brake service, replacing the pads.

4) The dealership also replaced a sun visor clip under warranty. My service advisor said he has seen this problem a number of times as well.

An oil change and all services cost my leasing/management company only $162.

I hope I have met the intent of this forum and that maybe I can help other owners with my comments.

bottgers · January 2001

The dealership fixed my Intrepid without a hitch. The drain valve in my radiator was faulty. The dealership had my car for about 4 hours. I wish every dealership's service department experience could be this good.

bottgers · January 2001

I guess the only real complaint I have about my '98 Intrepid is the fact that its resale value absolutely plumeted since it was new. I paid a little over 22 grand for it new, now its trade-in value is only 12 grand. This may be enough to keep me from buying another one. I don't believe I've ever seen any car's value drop this much this fast.

j_j_kidd · January 2001

Bottgers: Four hours for that dealer to replace a rad drain valve, good thing your intrep is still under warranty. It's no wonder the Chrysler division is going down the drain with warranty expenses like that. How long do you think it would take them to replace a major component like an engine?? 1-2 weeks ????

regalluvr1 · January 2001

It isnt just Intrepids that are depreciating quickly these days.Most cars foreign or domestic are taking alot of depreciation in the first two years.The car makers have built more than they can ever sell and also a ton of program cars hit the market every Fall.Cars are selling poorly here in the Midwest and dealers are sitting on lots of 2000's yet and are trying to sell them and the new 2001's at near invoice with not much luck.Dealers with 7-8 salesman that used to average one new vehicle per day are lucky to sell one new vehicle per week in some areas.We recently were in alot of car dealers show rooms and we would be the only people there.I doubt we ever buy another new car.We will buy one or two year old cars and let someone else take all that depreciation.

snowman · January 2001

Every option has its own down sides. Buying used will bring you risks that you may end up with heavy repair bills and inconvenience and frustration. As you said buying new will hit you with depriciation.

bottgers · January 2001

I don't think it took them 4 hours to replace the valve, they just had my car for 4 hours.

mnron2 · January 2001

I have to say, I have had no troubles with my Intrepid. I get 23MPG combined,with the 3.5 litre, in the summer. The only thing we needed to fix, was the front brake pads and rotors. This was done at about 54X,miles.
Best new car I have owned !

ekent · January 2001

Due to the shape of these bump strips, my one week old R/T had a .25" chunk taken out of the strip on the front passenger door. The black eurethane material shows up just great on my silver car. How is everyone else's holding up?

EK

jsylvester · January 2001

You are saying that the moldings under the paint are black urethane? What did they hit your car with, a machete?

The R/T does run better after a few thousand miles. I have about 4,600 miles, and it quicker at lower RPM's than before. I have only two minor issues to have the dealer address on my next visit - the left rear door molding at the base of the window is loose in back corner, and I am getting the low rpm (< 1,000 rpm) growl from the serpentine belt when it is cold for the first few accelerations after starting.

I'm 34 and single, all my friends love the car so far. Check out the 300m forum for performance ideas.

demonseed · January 2001

I am on the verge of purchasing a loaded 2001 ES.
Anybody have any problems with the 2000 or 2001 models? And how similar are these models. The 2001's are the only ones I have ever checked out. I did drive an SE with the 2.7 liter engine, and I felt it lacked power. I also drove an ES with the 3.2L engine and it was much better than the 2.7L. Then I drove the R/T with the 3.5L, WOW! It was the best of the three I test drove. I am hoping that DC has overcome some of the noise issues and the tranny problems. Would appreciate any input. PS. I also own a 98 Grand Voyager 57K, so far so good.Only minor repairs have been required.

andre1969 · January 2001

I've had a few nicks and scrapes on mine...my car is silver, too, but none have been deep enough to show the black underneath. The most serious problem I've had was the power lock actuator going bad in the driver's door. It would make a whining noise when it locked, and sometimes if I got out of the car while it was running (say, delivering pizzas, for example) it would lock itself behind me, so I always had to leave a window cracked. It was fixed at 35,200 miles, still under warranty. Considering that on the nights I worked I could easily lock/unlock the doors 30-40 times a night, I guess it shouldn't be too much of a surprise that it broke!

-Andre

dndold · January 2001

Here is my experience with my 96, with a 3.5 engine. It has about 140k miles on it now. The AC and water pump were both replaced under extended warranty. The engine has been a strong reliable runner. The transmission now has a bad seal leak--haven't fixed yet, just keep putting fluid in. The brakes have needed the usual work, but I now need to replace the rack and pinion completely because they just don't make the outer bushings I need to replace. The dealer wants $1100 for the part, but I have found it at auto zone for around $300. I would make sure to buy an extended warranty if I ever get another.

golson2 · January 2001

Have 1995 Intrepid with 70K miles. All scheduled maintenance has been faithfully performed and have been satisfied with everything about the car. Recently have noticed a condition that happens occasionally. When the car shifts into overdrive, while accelerating normally through the gears, the car pulls very slightly to the left at the same time the shifting occurs. Can anyone offer an idea of the cause?

kevinryan · January 2001

I am a 23 Year old computer programmer. It isn't like I spend my life in the car, but I drive a lot. To work and back and the gym every day equals about 75 miles per day.

I got my car used in 1999, and it had 27,900 miles on it. I did not get the extended warranty.

I had little wierd problems like my driver's side window jumped the track and the whole thing got replaced. Window and assembly, because you can't buy the connecting parts. That was relatively minor, the body shop got me for ~$240

Now it is winter here in the great northeast and my car started acting wierd. Found out that when your tranny restricts you to Park, Revese, Neutral and Second gear it is a bad output sensor. Well that's all fine and good, got that fixed. $150.

NOW. A week later, the car put itself in PARK while I was Moving!! I was stuck on broadway with no way to push the car, as it would not change gears at all. The Chrylser Dealership where I took it told me that it would need a new transmission. price? $2000 but not a cent more.

Being a programmer, you probably think I make a lot of money, but not really. I am a Middle class white collar professional, who isn't rich yet. I am going to have to borrow the money from my parents to pay. I am also going to have to sell the car to be able to pay them back in a reasonable amount of time. I am paying $368 permonth for CarPayment, and about $200 for insurance.

I am getting rid of it, and buying a VERY used Honda. A honda with 100k is considered by many in the used car market to be low mileage.

Hate to pee on your respective parades.

--Kevin

hc11 · January 2001

I own a 99 ES with 28k and so far everything has been working perfectly. But since the weather has turned colder (in the 20's) I will get some valve noise for a few seconds after it has been sitting for longer than 24 hours when I first start up. Is anyone else having this problem or know what is causing it? I have tried using 0W mobile 1 oil, but that wasn't helped. I am kind of reluctant to take it to a dealer to have it check out in fear that some ape will cause more problems trying to fix it. The noise only lasts a few seconds but I am a little worried about any long term damage to the engine and would like to get it fixed while it is still under warranty if there is a real problem.

daveninja · January 2001

Got to a certain point in my troubleshooting. I get a code 43, which is either cylinder misfire, or something up with the primary coil. I got the tests you can do from those big Mitchell books in the library, but all of them say to plug the hand decoder into the car. Obviously, I don't have one. Any suggestions, and also, would those two things cause hesitation when under a load, or even engine slight shakes when stopped?

THANX!

greggfl · February 2001

I have had the exact same problem with my 95 Intrepid. (along with many other's!)
The problem in your case lies with the steering bushing located behind the engine on the firewall. It's a really complicated set-up. Mechanic said that it was similar to Mercedes. I do not know the proper terminology but I watched the mechanic replace the bushing in my car. They look like two mini doughnuts with metal bushings inside. What happens is that the metal part of the bushing fails and the rubber cracks causing the car to veer left upon acceleration. I might add, the Dodge dealer had not a clue of how to repair this. I have a 3.5 ES fully loaded. They said that it was normal torque steer. These guys (Dodge techs.) really need help. My Intrepid goes through a tranny every 5-10k miles. I purchased it with 36k miles and it now has 88k. I have had it in for tranny service 14 times and had total rebuilds or replacements 4 of those times. NEVER WILL I EVER OWN ANOTHER DODGE. When I call Dodge customer service in Auburn Hills, MI and question them directly about the integrity of the trans. they quote, " This conversation is becoming unproductive and the call will be terminated." Doesn't matter how many times I call the response is always verbatum. It's no wonder they're in trouble. My email is greggfl@wans.net if you care to contact me directly.

greggfl · February 2001

Had that problem too. Suncoast Chrysler Plymouth replace plugs and wires at a cost of $375. Solved the problem. I would caution against trying to do this procedure by yourself. Take the car in for service.

jagged21 · February 2001

I JUST RECENTLY BOUGHT A 2000 DODGE INTREPID BASE MODEL WHICH NOW HAS ABOUT 22000 MILES ON IT. I HAD TO TAKE THE CAR IN TO FIX THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW WHICH WAS MAKING NOISE AND ASK THE SERVICE MANAGER ABOUT ANOTHER PROBLEM I WAS HAVING.

I FOUND OUT THAT ON AN INCLINE, WHEN YOU TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE BRAKE, THE CAR ROLLS BACK LIKE YOUR WERE IN NEUTRAL. I HAD NEVER EXPERIENCED AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION THAT DID THAT AND WHEN I TOLD THE SERVICE MANAGER...HE SAID IS NORMAL FOR THAT TO HAPPEN ON NEWER DODGE MODELS TO AVOID MORE STRESS ON THE TRANSMISSION WHEN LETTING YOUR FOOT OFF THE BRAKE. I WAS SPECULATIVE...BUT WENT AHEAD AND HAD THE WINDOW FIXED ANYWAY.

WELL....I GOT THE CAR BACK, FIXED WINDOW AND ALL. I LATER HAD A FRIEND IN THE CAR AND WANTED TO SHOW HIM HOW THE CAR ROLLS BACK AND GET HIS OPINION ON IT. AND WHAT DO YOU KNOW...THE CAR THEN STOOD SILL ON THE SAME HILL THAT I OBSERVED THE PROBLEM. MY FRIEND LAUGHED AT ME AND TOLD ME THAT I'M IMAGINING THINGS!!!! CAN ANYONE COMMENT ON THIS ONE?????

heng · February 2001

hold your car on a grade and get on with your life.

If you are worried your DC tranny will eventually fall apart, well, that's a different story.

ppistun · February 2001

Bought the car new as a company car and other than problems with Check Engine light (dealer reprogrammed chip long time ago) ran fine. Bought the car from the company with 123,000 mi. Had to replace trans. Now has 146,000 mi. Light came on again recently and has been running rough. Last tuned up @ 130,000. As I was pulling the plug wires off the plugs seems like #4 wire was broken at the connector at the plug. This plug seemed darker than the other 5. I replaced all the plugs and the plug wires. It still runs rough. My question is "Is it possible that the ignition coil pack may have been damaged by running it with a broken wire?" That's a $50.00 part. Is it possible the computer is screwed up?

gmeives · February 2001

I have a 98 Intrepid ES with a 3.2 Liter V-6. I have about 62,000 miles on the car and have the oil changed every 3000 to 4000 miles at the dealer. My problem is the drain plug keeps getting striped. I am on my 3rd oil pan as they say once the plug is stripped the pan has to be replaced. So far it has been covered by my extended warranty. Is any one else having this problem? Are there any other ways to fix this problem? I hate to have to replace the oil pan ever 5 or 6 oil changes.

andre1969 · February 2001

If it's the drain plug getting stripped, you should just need a new drain plug, NOT an oil pan! I would talk with whomever is changing the oil, as it sounds like they're putting on the drain plug way too tight.

One thing you can do, which is only a temporary fix...as the drain plug starts to leak, buy a plastic washer and put it on first. I had to do that with a 1969 Dodge Dart. If it's stripped too badly though, it won't help.

BTW, I've been changing my oil myself, and haven't had any problems...yet ;-) 40,000 miles and counting!

-Andre

mommyscar · February 2001

I have a 1997 intrepid sport with 55,000 miles on it. The car was in four times with the same tranny complaint. Car would not engage into drive from reverse after backing out of my driveway. I had to hit the gas and the car would make a large thud and kick into drive. Of course the lousy dealership diagnosed the problem on it's fifth return to see them, this time out of warranty. They wanted $1800.00 to replace the tranny and after some argument, they did it for $750.00 (they said it was for customer courtesy).
In addition to the tranny, I have replaced a fuel pump, an oxygen sensor and most recently the intake manifold. Has anyone had any luck with Chrysler with some kind of restitution?? I love the way the car drive and looks, but I have spent $2500.00 over the past three years and I'm afraid I will end up shelling out even more. Any suggestions?? Thanks.

jsylvester · February 2001

Check out the link below for more than you would ever want to know about proper maintenance of the 4 speed autos.

In summary, the fluid used is critical, and it sounds like many service departments get it wrong as well, which will kill the tranny. Notice on these boards how many replacements go out shortly thereafter?

http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html

andre1969 · February 2001

jsylvester, thanks for the link on the Chrysler transmissions! I had the one in my 2000 Intrepid serviced back in October, about 10,000 miles ago, and it's been ok so far. The shop I take it to is usually good about doing things right, but I'm going to ask them about the fluid. I'd rather pay to have the thing serviced again than have to get a new tranny!

BTW, mine has gone 40,000 miles now in 15 months with no tranny or engine problems (knock on wood!)

-Andre

alcan · February 2001

Chrysler TSB # 21-04-85 P-2131 dated June 17, 1985, and TSB # 21-19-91 dated Dec 16, 1991 both refer to the specified fluid, MOPAR ATF PLUS, (type 7176), for Chrysler automatic transmissions/transaxles, NOT DEXRON. This is old news. (Newer units specify ATF PLUS 4)

jsylvester · February 2001

Check out message # 178. Apparently some dealerships are not up on the issue. Granted, the specs change so often it can be confusing.

Still good info on self-diagnosing your transmission.

drej · February 2001

Our 1994 concord transmission went over the edge this time. While driving on freeway it jumped into neutral. Had to shut it off & re-start to get it back into gear, & then you could only drive it in 1st, barely got it home. The car has 90K on the odometer & I've changed the fluid 40K hi ago.. (Maybe thats too long). I changed it yesterday it was really burnt & brown (haven't test drove it yet). We'd bought the car used w/ 30K on it and its been "relatively stable" (ref: AC system is Junk on it). The tranny always gave us signs of trouble. On a similar problem some years back I changed the Battery & the erratic shifting problem went away! (Maybe a fluke). This time the problem is serious. I'll keep you posted.
Any tips... we'd Like to keep the Car running for some time still.

bttink · February 2001

Sorry for the length of this one. I own a 97 Intrepid ES Purchased as a demo new. Now has 45,600 miles. Purchased a complete extended warranty but not Chrysler - through AAA because of the 100,000 miles (Chrylser was only 75,000). Problem begon on 1/29. The fusable link at the battery melted. Had a mechanic check it out and they couldn't find any short. The battery was corroded and he thought this was the problem. He replaced the fusable link with another with the exact amerage.
The next day the car was dead at lunch time. Had it towed to a local Chrysler dealership. They replaced the battery called and said the car was done. Went to pick it up that night and it was dead again. They ended up taking the car apart and found again the fusable link was melted. Also the main body harness wiring and instrument cluster harness melted together. The left rear interior "C" pillar molding melted and the rear defrost power wire was burnt. The cause was the main power wire for the rear defroster was stuck between the "C" pillar molding clip and the body cauing the wire to short, melting the main body and dash harnesses in several places.

Problem is absolutely no one will take responsibility. Called AAA and they won't cover it because the "failure was attributed to the "C" pillar clip pushed into the harness" and that is not a covered part. Called Chrylser customer service and they won't cover it because the dealership it's at said the wiring was "tampered with" (a phrase the dealership denys saying).

We then called the dealership we purchased it from because we were told the wire was routed incorrectly. Since we had had the car in 5 times just after purchase because of the sun roof not working. If they had removed the headliner to repair this then it was very likely they removed the pillar trim molding. That dealership said they would not have taken down the headliner to work on the sunroof for any reason other than replacing the module. Our problem was when closing the window it would drag the cover first and would not allow the window to close. On the 5th time in the shop they found that the rails were broken and they replaced them. (We have since had our mechanic call several dealerships and all said they would have to take down the headliner for this repair.)

We called our insurance policy, since customer service had said it was "tampered with" but they won't cover it because they feel the problem was caused by Chrysler.

I'm looking for some help. It's now 2/24 and we've been out of a car for almost a month. The cost of the repairs is $3100.00 and we just don't have that amount. While everyone agrees it is not our problem everyone is pointing at someone else while I'm without the vehicle.

Questions -- Can anyone confirm that in order to repair the sunroof the dealership would have had to remove the headliner?
Has anyone ever encountered the same or similar problem and how did you go about the repairs?

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

wdoran · February 2001

I have 81,000 miles on my 95 Intrepid. On cold mornings (sub freezing) the car clunks when steering a few times during the first few minutes then every thing is fine until the next cold morning. Anyone have any ideas of what could cause this?

mw42 · February 2001

My 1995 Dodge Intrepid ES has recently started to stall intermittently on braking particually during right turns in traffic. It starts immediately after coming to a full stop and placing the car in park. Any help would be appreciated.

rintrepid · March 2001

I have a 2000 AS Dodge Intrepid with the 3.2L engine. It runs well so far but it does one peculiar thing. In cold weather, (less then 40 I), I've noticed that I still get the white moisture smoke (that you'd normally see while a car is warming up) well after the engine has warmed up (even after extensive high speed highway driving). I've driven behind other Intrepid and have noticed this, but you never know if they're warmed up or not. I do not see this on warm days. Once while driving behind my car in our other vehicle, I could see a fair amount of water come out of the muffler. I've seen this on other cars, too but it makes me wonder: is this normal for Intrepid? Do they drive "moist"? Maybe I'm just paranoid. Any opinions?

alcan · March 2001

Catalytic converters recombine hydrocarbons, oxides of nitrogen, and carbon monoxide in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide and H2O (water), which you see as the moisture/white vapour at the tailpipe. It's usually an indication that the converter's working efficiently or the fuel mixture's a bit rich.

drej · March 2001

Well update on #190 $1,500 later of hard earned dollars the car & tranny is running again (otherwise I would of had a "boat anchor with a chrysler symbol on it in the garage". Tranny's rebuilt with a 1 yr warranty. Maybe time to sell.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2001

That's right...for one gallon of gasoline, if you write out the chemical reaction, you should see about a quart of H20 as I recall. Of course, this may not be 'pure" water, but in solution with other nasty stuff.

forest27 · March 2001

Hi rintrepid, I too had same problem with excessive exhaust white smoke at about 35-40 degrees. I was convinced that my head gasket was blown. I have 145,000 miles on this car with a 3.3 engine and it runs fine for the most part. I have to keep adding water to my de-airator holding tank. It turns out that for my car the water level line in plastic holding tank is too high and when I fill to that level it always overflows coolant out to the ground. At 40 degrees and above air temp the car always runs smoke free. My gas mileage goes from 21 to 27 mpg during this temp. changes like clockwork. My car doesn't burn oil at 3,000 miles oil changes I am down 1\4 of a quart.
I do have an anoying problem with the transmission.
If I start the car and let it idle it will stay in 3rd gear about 80% of the time . I have to shut the car off and restart it,
then it is ok. If I race the engine to 1000-1500 rpms for a second or two I feel the gas pedal "loosen up" and the transmission is always fine. I have changed the transmission fluid and filter using all chrysler parts 7176+ and filter.
I don't know why cause my old oil with 145k on it was red and no burnt smell. it was original never been changed. I'm curious whats going on with my transmission and also the check engine light keeps coming on even though car runs fine. plenty of power. I have changed spark plugs and gapped them at .050 Bosch plantinum and changed pcv valve and air filter. Occasionally the car runs a little rough at a stop light. I still have the original A\C in good working shape if you can believe that! All brakes are original too lots of pad left, all highway miles. If anyone has an idea whats going on with my transmission at an idle and check engine light I sure whould like to
hear from you. Thanks Forest. e-mail is mmscorp@banet.net

cargirl12 · March 2001

Well I thought I'd post my tranny from He__ story so any of you out there thinking it might get better will come to your senses. Wished I had three tranny's ago.

Bought my 94 Intrepid used at 50,000. The tranny went at about 78,000....was about 75 miles from home and limped all the way back in "limp mode". Went to AAMCO...*stay away, overprice and the service and product stink.* Had the 1 year warranty, everything was running great. It's a beautiful car... the big engine, roomy, leather... everything! Well 17 months later the tranny went again. Out of warranty of coarse! Went back to AAMCO because they were willing to do the work at 1/2 the price they charged me the first time. LOL...what a deal, eh? NOT! 1st tranny - $1700 2nd tranny - $900. The second tranny was put in Dec 15, 2000. I had to return three times because it wasn't shifting into gears right....when backing up wouldn't go into gear at all once I'd put it in drive. They replaced a wiring connection cable once...the other time they said they couldn't find anything wrong. Well Feb 16, 2001 while going down the Pike at 65 MPH the car lurches forward with this horrendous sound and then comes to an almost complete stop, smoke billows out from underneith...IN THE FAST LANE! Thank GOD there were no tailgaters following me closely! I limped over three lanes and had it towed back to AAMCO...this time a different AAMCO. Figuring...well maybe I can finally get someone to do a good job. BOY...what a nightmare this has been. I'm told everything was melted, burnt and Tranny THREE to be installed. They have had my car three weeks this Friday...suppose to be getting it back tomorrow. Ya...RIGHT!?!?!? Anyways...I wouldn't touch another INTREPID if you gave it to me. I'd stay as far away as possible from AAMCO as possible!!

Don't get me wrong...I loved the car..the looks, the ROOM, the speed....but they can keep it as far as I'm concerned. Intrepids are NOTORIOUS for tranny problems...had I been a informed consumer when I bought this car I wouldn't have touched it three years ago. So...now I'm looking at the Nissan Maxima...good reliable car, GREAT engine...sporty..cute. Just thought I'd share my story with you all.

andre1969 · March 2001

Starting up in the morning, I went to put my driver's side window down. It just creaked, but did not move. The back ones were stuck too. Only the passenger side front worked. After a couple minutes they all worked, though.

I'm hoping they were just frozen or something...like maybe we had a freezing rain during the night or some case like that. Still, I've heard alot of cases of window motors failing prematurely...and at 41,000 miles, I don't know how "premature" that would be any more!

-Andre

landcruiserman · March 2001

Last July I purchased my 98 Intrepid company car due to the hugh depreciation. I thought twice about the purchase due to numerous problems in its first year such as: burned out motors for the windows, oil light problems that were fixed due to an engineering problem, noise in front of car (technical bulletin).

Now after driving the car since June, the drivers side window fell off its track, the battery cable has corroded and the front end of the car is making lots of noise. Now I know why Dodges depreciate so quickly.

I wish my company would allow Hondas or Toyotas as company cars.....

Please think twice before purchasing a used 98 intrepid.

Dodge Intrepid Problems

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles