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VW Passat Troubles (B5 platform, nee Audi)

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Comments

  • sp2003sp2003 Member Posts: 8
    Just bought a 2003 GLX last week. Noticed a loud metal grinding noise while reversing the day after I bought it. I heard that same metal grinding noise a couple different times today while making turns. Also felt a little bit of stalling while going up on an incline. Is this normal because it's a new car or should I be worried?
  • edttedtt Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone installed a K&N air filter in a Passat V6? What are the steps to do this?
  • mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    Is normal on a cold start only, and should not repeat during the drive or during the turns.

    Are you turning the wheels to the extreme sides? The VW manual warns about doing that - leaving the wheels fully turnd when parked.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    If the air filter is an expanded foam seal like the 1.8T (1.9TDI, and 2.0L), it's basically, apply a bead of grease (supplied) to the rubber seal, clean the top side of the airbox cover and apply the foam seal (it's basically weatherstripping you use at home), place the filter in, close and screw the cover on.
  • sharcsharc Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem with my previous Passat (99 GLS). They replaced the entire wire harness from the antenna to the receiver. Mine was fixed under warranty at the time (had about 15,000 kms at the time). Good luck.
  • sp2003sp2003 Member Posts: 8
    Nope its not me turning the wheels that's making that noise. I hear a distinctive metal grinding against metal when I initially start to drive whether or not it's a cold start. I noticed christie6 (post #400) described the same problem I'm having. If you're reading this let me know what it turned out to be. I am making an appointment for service.
  • mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    Sorry if I didn't clarify...

    The "grinding" noise we have occurs when you first start the car (warm or cold), happens the first time you hit the gas AFTER you start the car, but never again until you turn the car off and start again.

    If this is the case, it is a normal sound - something about an auxiliary pump kicking in. Some of the cars make the noise more than others.
  • mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    just read post #400. That is a normal sound. We took ours to the dealership and they did confirm it. Some earlier posts also mentioned the same thing.
  • sp2003sp2003 Member Posts: 8
    Feel a little bit better that other people hear the same thing. I just find it strange that a new car would make a such a loud sound. Never in the 10 years of driving my Accord did I hear even a squeak when I pulled out so this is all new to me. I notice if I let the car warm up a little longer the noise is not as loud. Does it go away after a certain period of time with use or at least become less noticeable? Other than that I do love this car!!
  • mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    Allowing the car to warm up for about 15 seconds seems to make it less noticeable.

    The noise also seems to get less over time, but I can't confirm that because my wife and I might be getting use to the symptoms and tuning them out! Hehehehe!

    Yes, it is a great car. Inside and out. They say that God is in the details, and man, VW did pay a lot of attention to those little useability details!

    Enjoy your new car!
  • weeb35weeb35 Member Posts: 10
    I am purchasing a 2003 Passat and was told by the dealer that a driver would be going to get my auto next week. I stated I was concerned with someone driving my new passat before it gets through its break in period. I was told the passat does not have a break in period, that it is ready for the autoboune, germany, where they drive over a hundred.. IS THIS TRUE no breaking of the PASSAT
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I suggest that you take a read of the friendly manual, and then let your dealer read it, too.
  • mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    As per the manual.

    Break in period is 1000 miles.
    No high accelerations
    Keep speed under 2/3rds of max speed
    Keep RPMs low
    At 600 miles, start increasing the RPMs and the acceleration till 1000 miles.

    Car brakes require about 400-600 miles to break in properly.

    BTW, keep those rims cleaned, the brake dusts are nasty, and will pit the rims in less than three weeks if left unchecked.

    The break-in persiod is the hardest IMHO - because the car really wants to be driven, and accelerates really well!

    Good luck!
  • joel_1joel_1 Member Posts: 5
    i own a 2002 passat. i love the car, but have had three problems. 1.) radio went out and had to be reprogramed. 2.) ignition coil had to be replaced. 3.) cracked engine and damaged transmission oil pans.
    --radio just went out about 1800 miles into life.
    --engine would have this ugly loud vibrating noise till one day the engine was vibrating violently and the check engine light started to blink, this took place at about 4000 miles into life. needless to say i was out of town on a saturday with all car rentals places closed for the day. the ignition coil was replaced and the problem fixed, but the vibrating returned at about 5500 miles into life. i will be taking the passat back for check up before it leaves me stranded.
    --at 6000 miles my car hit something and cracked the motor oil pan and dented the transmission oil pan. i was told i had to replace both, estimates for the repairs are at $1050.00 for the two pans, installation, and replacement of fluids.
    i have heard that the aluminum oil pan is prone to crack when it hits anything, IS IT TRUE?

    i love the passat, but it is becoming a little bit of a headache. i hope i do not reach the day that i will kick myself for buying a this nice car.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I would think any oil pan is could crack if it strikes something. I personally would not drive the car at all with a cracked pan...you don't know if it will give way and dump all of the oil, leading to catastrophic engine failure (not covered under warranty).
  • browneyedgirl2browneyedgirl2 Member Posts: 6
    I have been in the market to purchase a new car for the last month. My husband and I have worked diligently with the local VW dealer to find us a car that fit our liking. They located one, on the ship to the states and marked it sold. Whether doing this pushed it through all the checkpoints, we'll never know. But after picking it up for a test drive, 6 times it made that grinding noise. Mainly when switching from reverse to drive. It happens after that first initial acceleration and can be felt under the accelerator pedal. It sounds like a pop can being crushed or chains rattling.
    Needless to say, I drove it back to the dealer and told them they had a problem. When they called back 3 days later, they told me they couldn't hear anything. Classic answer. I truly loved that car, but how am I to know if this problem isn't the start of things to come?? I can't imagine this is normal. To anyone who has experienced this same problem, have you determined what is causing it?? If I don't find an honest answer, VW may be short a future owner.
    Thanks for any help!
  • sp2003sp2003 Member Posts: 8
    If you check some of the above posts you will see that my car originally made that same noise that you're describing. After taking it back to the dealer I was told it's the ABS system kicking in. I've had the car for a month now and the noise is less noticeable now that the car has almost 1000 miles on it. Now all I feel is a little bit of a kick in the gas pedal after initial acceleration and then it's smooth sailing.
  • browneyedgirl2browneyedgirl2 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks sp2003.
    The dealer called us earlier this week and they were checking the ABS system. They said something about getting the ok from VW to replace it. After what you said, I wonder if it needs replacing??
  • sp2003sp2003 Member Posts: 8
    I don't know if it's that serious a problem. The mechanic I spoke with reassured me it was totally normal. Replacing the ABS seems a little drastic but then again I don't know how bad your car sounds. Let us know why they're recommending to replace it. If this ABS system is going to cause some potential problems later on I'd like to know now.
  • cmigscmigs Member Posts: 5
    I don't know if this forum can answer this question, but here goes...I have a 2000 Passat GLS V6 and I'm very happy with it. Unfortunately, I drive approx 100 - 125 miles a day to work, and I just recently crossed over 100k on the odometer. At this pace, I'll have 200k in less than 3 years, and I'm wondering if VW sells replacement engines, since the rest of the car still looks brand new. Anyone have any idea where I may be able to get more info on this?
  • reidkreidk Member Posts: 46
    cmigs:
    Just an educated guess, but would expect a new engine from VW to be Very Expensive, although you might be able to come up with one from a junk yard (then all you have to worry about is Installation - cost & quality; plus, of course, running the risk of inheriting someone else's poor maintenance....)
    In any event, your mileage driven is impressive: at 125 miles/day, 5 days/wk x 52 wks/yr you would put on 32,500 - two years makes that 65,000: doing another 35,000 + miles on top of that means you must nearly LIVE in your car!
    At what mileage did you have the timing belt replaced? Approx cost? Have a '99 GLS V6 with under 45K: means belt replacement will not be called for until nearly two years or so, but am still curious as to what that is going to look like in terms of cost & down time...
    In any event, would expect a well-cared for modern engine to run for a long time. Are you seeing signs of impending failure?

    Drive Safely,
    Reid / SE MI
  • dtd07dtd07 Member Posts: 19
    hello all, new to this.

    I have a '02 1.8t auto, and would like to add a K&N
    air filter, but can't seem to even get to the old one. with all the fittings to it can't "open" the top. any suggestions?
    Anyone, has replace the headlights with HID? found HID bulbs on Crutchfield.com, but can't seem to get access to the driver side bulb.
    Help anyone?
    thanks
  • gracepapgracepap Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 2001.5 Passat 1.8, 4 cylinder. 11K miles.
    The other day, I turned on the car and the "MIL" light stayed on. (Looks like an engine block--is this the engine light??). Anyway, my brother who has an Audi said the same thing happened to him and it's no big deal...."car is still driveable...take it to the shop when you get the chance..."

    I called Koeppel VW and they said they don't have any appointments open for 10 days (which is usually the case here in NYC) :(

    My question is this: Is it safe to drive at low speeds around town until I can get it looked at? What about highway driving? I need the car to take kids to school and they don't do "loaner" cars for this sort of thing...

    They said as long as it isn't "flashing", then it's okay..(the receptionist said it is probably an emissions problem).....I was told this by my brother as well.

    As of today, it is still "solid" and not flashing...

    By the way----I checked the gas cap to see that it was in properly. I made sure it "clicked" and the light still stayed on.

    Anyone else have this problem? Thanks
  • yorgasonyorgason Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 Passat VR-6 which has started having several engine problems. The vehicle sputters like it is either not getting enough fuel or too much and choking. Often wile at a stop the engine just stalls and will start again after about 30-45 seconds. The dealer thought it was the fuel pump fuel filter and then the O2 sensor. After replacing all of those and a few thousand dollars later we still haven't been able to fix the problem. Now that the temperature has turned cold we now get a horrible raw fuel smell inside the car. Has anyone had similar problems or know how to fix this? Please help.
    you can email me dirrectly if you would like @ yorgie@hotmail.com.
  • reidkreidk Member Posts: 46
    "a few thousand" for a fuel filter & O2 sensor???
    What else did you have done??

    "Raw fuel smell" cannot be good: last time that happened here was on my '99 Passat: seems some critter had taken a liking to the fuel line & chewed Just Enough of a hole in it for it to leak under pressure - no drips beneath car while engine off, but definitely stunk up the place once under way.... (same critter, or a family member, also struck several other vehicles in our lot - didn't know fuel line rubber was that nutritious!)

    Might not be the problem, but you should still check fuel passages & all connections from back to front - and maybe look for leaks in tank.
    Just Fishin': Could a blocked injector be problem? Missing any spark plugs? Hopefully someone else will have had other fuel trouble & can offer advice...

    Drive Safely,
    Reid / SE MI
  • outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    Is not recommended. The K&N uses "oil" to collect dust particles. This oil can seep past the air filter and onto the O2 sensor. If the O2 sensor goes, the engine runs like crap.

    Plus K&N air filters really don't do anything for performance. It's only advantage is that it can be cleaned instead of replaced every 15k miles or so.

    I say don't bother. Just get a good performance air filter that doesn't use any oils.

    -Craig
  • yorgasonyorgason Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the hints. My wife and I have decided to get rid of the Passat since we have sunk so much money into it and don't know how soon the next big repair will be. (With our luck on this Passat, we expect something soon.) We have been lucky so far that the few dealers we have talked to about trading it in haven't been able to detect the problems. Let the buyer beware, huh?.

    Thanks again

    Jon
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    I think you meant the MAF sensor.
  • drwyniadrwynia Member Posts: 2
    Check out the Cat Converter, gas smell and stalling are some good indicators. It is easy to check if you have the small cat tube that come into the eng compartment. Remove cap start car, whistle sound is normal but rev the car up if it tend to run smoother...than you cat is burned up. Just a Thought. Your car may be running with a high mixture of fuel and this unburned gas collects in the cat (gas Smell), This also shortens the life of the cat converter.
  • sunshine23sunshine23 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Passat, 1.8, w/ 16,500 miles, and out of no-where my MIL light is on and flashing. I called roadside assistance and they can come pick up the car anytime (obviously), but the service department at the nearest dealership (1 1/2 hours away) won't be open until Monday. Needless to say, I'm not at all happy. I have this beautiful, brand new car that I've been wanting for almost two years sitting in my driveway and I can't drive it!!!

    When the car made grinding noises while backing out of the driveway, I just turned the radio up so I couldn't hear it. I'd heard of this happening before to other owners. Then when the butt warmers on the seats stopped working I just shrugged it off, telling myself I didn't need it anyways. With those problems I could still drive "Blue", but now this happens!!! I'm so mad I could cry! Now I'm wishing I got a BMW instead....someone tell me I'm wrong to think that!
  • mirabellamirabella Member Posts: 1
    Two months ago a whine with occasional chirps started whenever I decelerated or stopped. The noise vanishes once I accelerate. I've had the car to the dealership twice, but they are "unable to duplicate" the noise. I brought it to my local service station and they duplicated the noise and say it is coming from the bell housing, but told me to bring it to VW since it should be under warranty. The noise has become much louder since I first brought it in. Has anyone else had this problem, and (since I know nothing about what goes on under the hood) does VW have to remove my transmission to fix this?
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    See the following:

    04 FEB 2003
    VOLKSWAGEN AND AUDI TO REPLACE ALL IGNITION COIL PARTS ON 2001, 2002 AND SOME 2003 MODELS

    AUBURN HILLS, Mich. – Volkswagen of America, Inc. and Audi of America, Inc. today announced a customer service action in which the companies will ultimately replace the ignition coils in all 2001 and 2002 model year cars equipped with certain engines that have been experiencing a higher-than-normal failure rate. Also affected are very early production 2003 models.

    The companies are currently notifying all customers potentially affected and are initially replacing those ignition coils that fail at no cost. The updated customer service action, replacing all ignition coils whether they fail or not, will be implemented in the coming months.

    “We know that some ignition coils installed in our cars are not up to our high quality standards, and we are determined to do the right thing for our customers. The right thing to do is to fix every single car with these coils by replacing them whether they are broken yet or not. That is exactly what we will do as soon as we have the parts,” said Gerd Klauss, president and CEO, Volkswagen of America, Inc.

    The vehicles affected in this action include cars equipped with 1.8 liter engines, which includes the Audi TT and A4; and the VW Golf/GTI, Jetta, New Beetle and Passat. The companies also included the Passat W8 engine, all VW’s equipped with the 2.8 liter VR6; as well as the Audi 3.0 liter V6 engine. In total, approximately 530,000 cars are affected by this action.

    The ignition coils provide electricity to the engine’s spark plugs during operation. Volkswagen and Audi have recognized through service reports that the ignition coils used in the products listed above have a higher-than-normal failure rate. If an ignition coil fails, the check engine light/malfunction indicator lamp will blink. The car’s performance may, in some cases, become rough and/or the engine will lose some power and the car should be taken to an authorized dealer for repair. The engine and its electronic controls are designed to keep the vehicle running. Some deterioration in performance, however, can be expected.

    Volkswagen and Audi are announcing the following customer service action:

    The supplier is working triple shifts and seven days a week to make as many new parts as possible. Additionally, a second supplier has been activated.

    Soon customers will be notified by mail that Volkswagen and Audi will proactively begin replacing all ignition coils in cars potentially affected, whether a failure has occurred or not. This action will begin in the coming months as soon as replacement ignition coil supply volumes will allow.

    In order to minimize inconvenience to customers during repair, Volkswagen and Audi dealers will offer alternative transportation at no cost.

    Customers with questions should call VW Customer Relations toll-free at (800) 822-8987 or Audi Customer Relations toll-free at (800) 822-2834.

    # # #
  • parthenaisparthenais Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2003 VW Passat GLX. While the air conditioner is running, it sounds like the refrigerant is running low as it is always making a swishing/hissing noise. This noise is located above and behind the glove box. The first time I took it back to the dealer, they said they had to top up the refrigerant, but there was no leak. The next two times I took it to them, the mechanic said it was a design issue and that all Passats made this noise. He opened the hood and showed me that the refrigerant piping was located just below and in front of the windshield where I was hearing the noise. The noise is so constant and annoying I'm not buying this story that "they all do it". Have you heard this before?
  • parthenaisparthenais Member Posts: 2
    My 2003 Passat GLX (2.8 liter V6) makes a grunting sound and I can feel a vibration in the gas peddle when first moving the car forward after starting it. The sound is coming from the front left of the car. The dealer has informed me that according to Volkswagen Technical, my car has an ABS pump that is used primarily on the W8 model and this is a characteristic of the pump. I'm not buying this because I don't think they would be selling very well if they all did this. Has anyone encountered this with either the W8 or GLX. I'm looking for suggestions as to how to pursue this annoyance.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    If this is only happening when you first start the car, then it is normal. It is a diagnostic check on the ABS system.

    (It's in the owner's manual)
  • desertrat5desertrat5 Member Posts: 85
    I have a 2003 Variant with the 1.8T. Not quite 7 months old and just had the 10K check. Love the car - no problems so far. Some things I would like to see changed but no show stoppers.

    Last week coming down I17 from Flagstaff, I had a small altercation with a large piece of tire tread which magically flew out from under the car in front of me. It flew like a bolo, and I had no place to go to dodge it completely. It did manage to take out a hunk of grill but nothing else. After looking everything over, the grill comes out of the car with the removal of two threaded fasteners and..... the dang "T" hood release handle. I can work with the fasteners but I am stumped with how to disconnect the "T" handle. Does anyone have any idea how it is done? Other than dismantling a bunch of the front of the car, I am at a loss. The dealer quoted me $117 for the grill replacement and $120 to replace it. Any assistance would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Bob in Glendale
  • anetaaneta Member Posts: 4
    I am considering buying a Passat AWD 6 cylinders. I tend to keep cars for years, so I need reliability.

    I test drove one. Nice overall. Found gas & brake pedals a little close. Also, I felt the ceiling close to my head in the backseat. I am of medium height, didn't understand that.

    I would appreciate any feedback from owners of cars for over 2 years.

    Many thanks in advance.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    If it's like my Golf, where the handle attaches to the latch, you'll see a metal clip. If I remember, you squeeze the clip (pliers) and rotate it out.
  • jmullsjmulls Member Posts: 4
    My '98 Passat (80K) started burning oil like crazy and there ws no leak. If the oil cooler pump goes out it will do that. Mechanic (no VW) told me that VWs are the only cars to have that. It wws replaced at a tune of $400. Buy th epart online beofe you have the mechanic fix it. You can save $100.
  • cmigscmigs Member Posts: 5
    I recently took my 2k Passat V6 in for it's first brake job...considering I have 67,000 miles on my 2000 Passat, I'm ok with this. My local dealership quoted me a price of $365. I thought this was extremely high, but the dealership mentioned that Passat rotor cannot be milled down and must be replaced everytime you get your brakes done. Does this sound fishy?
  • cmigscmigs Member Posts: 5
    REIDk, thanks for the post...my Passat V6 needed a new timing belt at 55k...a little early and cost $495 (I did not do the waterpump at the same time since it's covered under powertrain warrantee until 100k), although I suggest you do so if you're lucky enough to have the orig timing belt to closer to 100k. Good luck.
  • cmigscmigs Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Passat V6 GLS 5 speed with 67k miles on it. My old car was a 1990 Honda Accord with 215k miles. Having had a Honda, I have an opinion on what reliability is. I love my Passat...I drive 100-125 miles a day. I would say the reliability has been good, not great. I've had a couple of electrical issues...burnt out light on the heating control dial ($40), sensor gauge went dead (warrantee), and headlights burnt out prematurely($100!)...minor stuff, but expensive if going through the dealership. Never the less, I LOVE my Passat and do not regret my decision. Good luck, and get the Monsoon Sound System.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Doesn't sound out of line, in my view and experience with VW's, for the mileage.
  • dougspassatdougspassat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Passat GLS and have noticed a very strong gasoline smell inside the car when driving it in the cold with the heater running. Seems the closer the temperature is to 0, the stronger the smell. Had the dealer check it out today, but they failed to find any leaks or problems. They have heard the same complaint recently from other Passat owners but couldn't help them either. Has anyone had this problem and found a fix?
  • georgek44georgek44 Member Posts: 81
    My experience with my 2000 GLS 1.8T has been very good regarding brakes and the timing belt. At 85K miles I'm on my third set of tires, but the belt and brakes are the originals. More than half my driving is on interstates, and I routinely use the tip for engine braking. This probably accounts for the long lives of the pads and rotors.

    On the other hand, I too have had a problem with odors in the car when it is very cold outside. In my case it is not the smell of fuel, but of exhaust. I've had it checked twice. The dealer can find no leaks, and is unable to duplicate the problem, either at idle in the parking lot or during a test drive.
  • jsanderson1jsanderson1 Member Posts: 1
    We have a '99 Passat wagon and we love it, but the past 4 times we've taken it in for a routine oil change/fluid check, the skid plate has apparently come almost completely loose. 2 of the past 4 times, either the guys doing the oil change just didn't put it back on securely, or the bolts holding it to the bottom of the vehicle just came off. The 3rd of the past 4 times, I watched the guy put the bolts on myself, and he put them on tightly. When I took it in last week, the mechanic told me it was about to fall off b/c only 2 bolts were left.

    We don't take the car off-road or hit every pothole we can find, and when I called VW to report the problem, they pleaded ignorance and said they'd never had a report of this sort of problem. They also suggested I take it to the dealer. (It's out of warranty now--74000+ miles on it.)

    Anyone else had a similar problem? I love this care, but it's annoying to have lie on my stomach every time I get ready to drive it to make sure that thing isn't hanging down. Twice, it's almost come off while driving and I thought I had a flat tire it was so bad.

    jjs
  • buffaloesbuffaloes Member Posts: 24
    I have brought my 2001.5 New Passat in to the dealer 5 times for a clunking noise coming from the steering wheel column. The noise sounds & feels similiar to what happens when you lock the steering wheel when parking. The clunk only happens when going right, esp when recentering the steering wheel after right hand turns. Sometimes the dealers have heard the noise. Each time they have "retourqued" the steering wheel, which got rid of the clunk each time for about 2 weeks only. I have not had this done for @15k miles, since I stopped going to the dealer because of poor service. In the last 3 weeks I have noticed the steering has become very loose & I have to turn my steering wheel much further to turn than I had to in the past. The clunk is still there. Suggestions?
  • 5speeder5speeder Member Posts: 97
    During the past couple days, we've gotten a warning in the readout above the mpg info etc. saying STOP Brake Fault Service Manual. In the 4 times it's happened, the warning went out before we pulled over and the brakes worked normally. The times I was driving, it did it as I went down a curving freeway ramp. The manual said a possible cause is low brake fluid.

    I took it to the dealer this morning, and the reservoir was full (over full, actually). They found nothing in the computer. The coolant reservoir was below minimum, so we filled that. He said "maybe" that had something to do with it but he was clearly reaching. Said if it did it again I should leave it for a day (I didn't have time this morning).

    Anyone else ever get this warning? Any ideas what's going on?
  • triplel64triplel64 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 VW Passat GLX V6 and am suffering with cold morning starts. The car starts immediately and all seems fine, but once I put it in drive or reverse, the car will not engage in gear. If I slowly press down the accelerator, it will finely move forward. Once the car has heated up, I do not have the problem again. It also does not happen when the weather is over 70 degrees for two or more days. I have contacted an independent mechanic as well as the dealership and no one can tell me what the problem is. They both suggested that I have the transmission serviced, which I did, but I still experience the same problem. Any ideas? I am at a loss.
  • jskhojskho Member Posts: 107
    Anything I should be aware of?
    Reading from various forums, I came to the conclusion that 2000 is the most reliable model year. Front suspension and timing belt tensioner has been improved and coilpack issues haven't shown up yet.
    What other common problems exist for MY2000?
    What should I beware of during test drive?
    Thanks.
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