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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)
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Many thanks.
Martin
I got the timing belt done at around 60K miles, I suppose a Honda dealer could do it, but I don't like my local Honda dealer so I still go back to Acura.
Couldn't tell you about the warranty, but if it's supposed to be lifetime, you should be able to call a dealer and confirm this.
The car at issue is a 1995 Integra RS with 110,000 miles. My friend is a salesman and spends a lot of time in the car, though it is all local driving.
Recently the ABS warning light has been on. He took it in for service and was told that the "modulator" and "accumulator" needed to be replaced, a $1600 investment. They were pretty vague about the safety if the repairs weren't made, but didn't say outright it was unsafe. It's a lot of money for a car that probably isn't worth 3 times that!
I guess the question is whether he just ignores it, unloads the car now, without repairs, or fixes it and hopes to get another couple of years out of the vehicle. Any advice?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
So, I am back to spending a modest amount to improve its performance, particularly handling. Previous advice from himiler and only1harry was to install a Comptech rear brace and larger sway bar. Is that still the advice? How much handling improvement will I see? I did replace the orginal Michelins with Dunlop SP 5000, and the handling improved a lot. Still, I can notice the understeer.
How much will a new exhaust header and exhaust system help the engine? I see that Comptech sells both, but I am wondering if anyone has other recommendations.
Upgrading the exhaust header is pretty worthless except at WOT, but it looks good and you obviously have the money. You could go for a full catback exhaust, also.
I am looking to buy a 90 Acura Integra 4 dr sedan. It has 124K miles on it,auto, p/w,p/l,no leaks.
I was wondering if you knew of any potential problems that this particular model might have or pose in the future?
The owner says that the car is a-ok with no problems.
appreciate any input...
Also, the timing belt, with plugs and valve adjustment was just due at 120K - was any of it done? If not, has it been done in the last 30K?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
And thanks also to nippononly for the advice. The timing belt was replaced at 90Kmiles. Do you (or anyone else?) still think thats ok or does the car need a 120K service? What else apart from the timing belt/plugs/valve adjstment are due at this stage?
again, thank for the input.
The paint and rear leak issues are much more important than that, and if it is sound in both areas, you have a great deal on your hands!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
someone mentioned that I should find out whether the 90 Integra LS I'm looking at has passed a vehicle emissions inspection and that cars that old rarely do. Is that true even for the 90 Acuras?
some more updates...the car I saw has some axle noise from the front right...and the rear window doesn't work. I havent had the chance to get it inspected yet - are these expensive repairs? Should I even get myself into this? I am jst scared that I might end up with a car and have to do a lot with it before its driveable!
But I liked it nonetheless!
Hondas and Acuras run very clean in general - my '88 always passed smog even with the tune-up overdue, and 200K+ on the clock. But also bear in mind that passing the smog check may be the seller's responsibility - it certainly is here in California. So you shouldn't have to worry about it.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I had the radiator go at 120K. I get about 50K for clutches, and 24K for rotors. Overall very disappointing reliability compared to my 153K mile 93 Civic, and my 168K mile 93 Rodeo.
Is the rattling from the transmission? I had a carrier bearing problem $$$$ and the transmission had to be disassembled and some of the parts had to be replaced.
Where does the rattle sound like it is coming from? You may want to post on the Maintenance and Repair board.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My wife still loves her '97 GS coupe.
I know there are many factors in determining a price, but given the above and it being a Acura Integra what is a decent price for a car like this?
Is there anything I should watch out for in this car (due to its' age or history)? I'm a little leary because it doesn't have ABS brakes or airbags which I'd like to have for my son.
Thank you,
-Joe
That said, the little things do add up. The rear wiper on mine was inoperative too - rear end electrical gremlins on these cars are very common. You should make sure all the rear lights work, including the third brake light.
The radio speaker problem is also very common - this one can be rectified if need be for $50/pair or so.
Old Honda automatics - you need to be careful. Does it shift promptly into every gear, and is there any hesitation to change gears while driving, even when stone cold? You want the answers to these two questions to be yes and no, in that order. Check the color of the fluid too - nothing burnt or dark.
With all that said, if it is in excellent condition it would be worth around $2000 in my area, but in your case I would knock that down several hundred for body filler and the like. Make sure that t-belt was truly replaced!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks for the information. It's very helpful and insightful.
-J
condition of: leather seats? body and paint? look at the bottom of the engine for signs of oil leaks. open the hatch and pull up the carpet to look for signs of water coming in - a major hassle to deal with that might make you less happy come rainy season.
if all of that gives you the right answers, it might be worth $2250 where I live (CA). manual or automatic?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Distributor leaks are common, but your distributor was replaced, so that would cure that. Depending on driving style of the previous owner, the clutch may be worn - that will be obvious when you drive it.
Be aware that a Maaco paint job isn't going to last very long. The engine and the trans on these cars are extremly durable, so that is a point in its favor. It sounds like it might be overdue for a tune-up, and I would be curious what its compression numbers are - do you have smog check in that state?
Anyway, that is a huge work-up for a $2000 car. Check for the engine and hatch leaks, stop it and start it up a couple of times, and then go on faith if you enjoy the drive! :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
We never buy or sell a car in private party before. Is $13900 asking price too much?
I'm a newbie to this forum. My daughter is looking at buying her first car which is a '92 Integra. It has 174,000 Km (108,000 miles) on it and is in good shape inside and out.
I have been a Nissan owner for the past 10 years and am wondering if the timing belt is as much of an issue with the Integra as it is for the Nissans? Also what are the known issues I should look for with this car?
Thanks very much for any advice.
Gary
Electrical accessories at the rear end are an issue, as is water coming in around the hatch door or through the taillights. Pull out the spare tire and check for evidence (staining etc) of standing water in the well it sits in. Make sure all the rear lights work as well as the wiper. Check all the HVAC controls up front as well. Make sure the buttons are working to shift the airflow between the dash, the floor, and the windshield.
Beyond that, nothing major. Make sure to check for bad CV joints at the front (crank the wheel all the way over in a parking lot and accelerate slowly while listening closely to the front for the sound of pebbles rattling in a can; then repeat with the wheel cranked all the way the other way). Worn spark plug wires and old distributor caps have a significant impact on the way these cars drive - eyeball those.
Plus, of course, all the usual stuff you check out on any used car.
Good luck! Manual or automatic?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The Acura is on wider, lower-profile tires (rims are 15s) with much more anti-sway control and better suspension, significantly more power, 4-wheel discs for braking, a moonroof, the list goes on and on. For me, no way is the new car smell going to compensate for losing all that. Buy a can of it at the auto parts store and spray it in that Integra, would be my advice.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have a 96 LS Integra w/1500,000. I was just told that I have a faulty 4th valve. The other 3 work fine. One shop says I should have the entire top half of the engine replaced for $2100. Problem is I just had that done about a year ago. Another shop says that i can just have the one valve and gasket replaced for about $1000. My question is is this even worth the money? I like my car and not having a note but I want to know can 1 valve be fixed or is that a entire valve job issue? Thanks for all your help and advice
If OTOH it has 150K miles, which I suspect is the case, I would spend the money to fix it if everything else is in good order and well-maintained.
Having said that, the major expense of replacing a valve is taking the head off, machining the head, and putting it back on. NO WAY do you pay to have all that done and then only replace the one valve. You replace all the valves - the individual parts are not a huge part of this cost. The labor is. I would think you could go halfway between those two estimates for a good and comprehensive valve job - have them put on a new timing belt and water pump at the same time as the extra cost is only for the parts. It is not necessarily a good idea to replace the whole head, which is what the $2100 estimate is, I suspect. The head is likely still good.
One other reason to replace all the exhaust valves (it is most likely an exhaust valve that has burnt out - have you asked them which valve it is?) is that they are all the same - if this one has failed now, it is likely that more of them are near the point of failing.
If it is in decent shape, go for the repair. Especially if it is a manual transmission. These cars go a long way, my old '88 was at 250K+ when I sold it, and I would rather have a paid-for Integra than my $15,000-owing RSX!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
94 Integra GSR two door hatch
91,000 miles SAYS in excellent condition, but it has shortshifter and racing cluth all going for $$$4,000 bucks, is that worth it???? Or is there most likely something wrong with it?
Last question being, is there a certain year/model integra that comes with a regular VTECH engine If I cant afford a decent GSR?
If you can't get into an Integra in your price range, you could always get a Civic EX - also has VTEC (albeit lower powered) and lots of options for increasing power aftermarket.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
But with between 4 and 5,000 bucks I can still find a decent 2 door LS 94 or above right? Ive heard its okay if the car has up to 150,000 miles on it because they last forever if driven decently, dunno how true that is. But yeahhh I was hoping to find a GSR out there if possible but I guess you havta spend a little bit more than 5k
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
When I go to buy or look at a private partys car, there anything I should look for in particular, or anything I should watch out for? I dont wunna buy a car and then havta turn around and spend money on fixing it right away. Ive heard you should make sure the water pumps and timing belts are working good and not too old. But thats all ive heard.
Ohhhh and, which car is faster STOCK, A civic EX (because of the VTECH engine) or a STOCK integra LS? And thanx for you replys man, yur helpin me alot, I dont want my first car to be a melon
Beginning in '94, the Integra LS got 140 hp out of a 1.8, but weighed about 300 pounds more than the Civic, which made about 125 hp (IIRC) out of a 1.6. Of course, in the Civic, the last 15 of those horsepower were only available once the VTEC kicked in, which happened at some very high rpm like 5000+.
On Integras and Civics, you have to make sure the timing belt was done, and the water pump with it. That should be within the last 60K miles - the belt is due every 60. Next, look in the trunk/under the hatch. Pull up the cover where the spare sits - is there any water in there? Is there staining indicating there has been water leaking in there in the past? Those are common problems - also check the taillights for proper operation and make sure they don't have sitting water in them. NEXT, check out those CV joints - get in a parking lot, crank the wheel all the way over and drive slowly in a circle, listen for any sounds (no sound is a good sound). Then crank the wheel the other way and do it again. Get under there and eyeball the CV boots - are they cracked or broken? CVs and boots are common problem areas too. NEXT, on the Integra, punch the button for each and every airflow direction on the dash HVAC - do they all work? Does the fan work at all speeds? You need to check the electronics carefully on old Hondas to make sure eveything is still working - wipers, lights, stuff like that. Finally, if it were me, I would avoid an Integra this old in any dark color - the black ones and to a lesser extent the dark green ones have had early problems with paint fade or wear. Does the clearcoat look intact on all the horizontal surfaces?
Hondas are fantastic, fun cars that can go a really long way, but they are also high maintenance as they get beyond the 10 year/150K point.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Now say I buy an integra LS, since it doesnt have a VTECH engine in it ; If I go ahead and slap on a decent exhaust system and an AEM cold air intake, that would definitely put it up over a stock civic EX right? I like both cars, but I want an integra a lot more so im trying to make the best out of whatever one I get since I found out none of them come with regular vtech engines.
And for future mods, do you have any suggestions as far as exhaust intake (headers if needed?)or anything else?
BTW, at that vintage, the GS was really just an LS with leather and alloys, and some of the LS's even had alloys. I would go with the LS unless you really love leather, because I have found that the leather in these cars doesn't age all that well unless it is well taken care of. And who takes the time to properly condition and maintain leather seats? Not most folks.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
That's a pretty good characterization, except for the specialty models like the type-R. Not a whole lot of Civic in that one! :-P
The suspension in most of the years has been noticeably better than the Civic's. But the interiors were nothing that great most of the time - just Civic class with better seats. The powertrain was usually Civic + 10%, and in that case the power increase in the base Integra was usually offset by its weight increase over the Civic. Of course, the intro of the GSR VTEC engines changed all that, and then finally with the advent of the RSX, the base integra has significantly more power than the Civic EX for the first time ever.
As to the cost of a GSR engine, well that would vary a ton. Used, new, rebuilt, junkyard motor, what? I am sure it would vary from one to several thousand dollars.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
the manual says 6 years or 90,000.
So, should I spend the money and get it done or wait a few more years when we get closer to 90k? Just how important is the age factor? The car has never left Florida and looks almost showroom fresh so the salt and snow of the great north
isn't getting in anything...
On a side note something finally broke on the car, we had to replace the brake master cylinder because of a leak and the main controller
for the ABS is bad and they want $2250 to fix, so no more ABS...
When they had it in they wanted to do the timing belt then but I decided to wait on it. On a plus I can't believe they actually gave us a free Enterprise rental for three days when they had the car, we have had the car for 11 years! Acura sure takes care of it's customers.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)