Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
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Regards,
Shipo
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I don't know what the $20 owner loyalty mailing charge is. It's on the invoice for my Dodge vehicle too, which means, again, that Chrysler is charging this as part of the cost of the vehicle, not the dealership.
As far as not being able to charge your customers added charges in your business...sure you can! Why wouldn't you be able to? If you're self employed, you can make your own rules. How many customers would you lose doing that is another question.
I want to buy one of the remaining Mark VIII's. Edmunds says there is $2000 rebate and a $4000 dealer incentive program until 1-14-99. The dealer says that is incorrect. The dealer says all they have right now is $5000 dealer incentive and it will expire 1-4-99. What gives? The Lincoln dealer is in the Chicago area.
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after the 4th and most importantly whether the 99
Quest will be included this time. Does anybody know of any good links for news, rumors etc. How often does the Edmunds rebate site get updated? Currently it was last updated on Dec 15th.
Thanks
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I think that the biggest issue is, if HB, does in fact exist on a vehicle. How is that particular HB number determined? HB in your posts may be different on each vehicle, or non existent. I would think that more HB would be available on a slow moving car, much less on a popular one.
Here's my problem with the thing, we have a ton of people come down to my store who have read posts on these boards. Great, you would think that my job would be much easier. I shouldn't have to go through the back and fourth. However, now, I have more customers sitting in front of me, saying that they know there is HB. What if there is no HB on that unit? Now what do I do? Do I say there is no holdback on that unit? I already know the response; "WELL, I READ ON EDMUNDS.."
What do I do if the HB is only $200, or $500?
And let's say that the HB is $2000. It's my job to take every deal to the desk, because I have no authority to change any number. I walk in there, look my boss in the eye, and say that I have a customer who, god bless them, is offering - $ 1,000 from our invoice, because they know about HB. They may know about HB, but like you and me, don't know how it's formulated, and don't have any idea if it can even be applied to that particular unit. I don't negotiate HB at all.
The next time I have someone insert HB into the negotiations, I'm going to say this: "Great, you also know about HB, what is it on this unit that your buying, and how did you arrive at that number?
Years ago, it was difficult to find out the Invoice prices on vehicles. Now, I can find any of them with the click of a button. As this information evolves, HB might be printed on Edmund's. Then someone else will make GB, or FT, or SW an issue. I'm sure that tomorrow, someone will walk into my office and tell me that they know about GB (I just made these up).
BTW $99-$499 over invoice, ignoring HB all together, is one heck of a deal.
Matt Drake
http://members.xoom.com/99overNvoice/Index.htm
Thanks,
Charles
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You will not get valid information from the dealer. If you buy the car without getting information you can trust from another source, then you are just one more sucker, which is not necessarily bad because I did that several times and paid too much for cars, and God didn't strike me dead for being so ignorant. But if you want to pay a decent price, ignore the info provided by the dealer, and look somewhere else for the facts.
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I see that the latest GM rebate expiration date is Jan 31. They were advertising Feb 28 last week. Have they changed their program.....AGAIN?
I'm getting really fed up their inconsistent rebate programs. They are showing no customer consideration but hey....this is GM we're talking about.
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Here's where it gets interesting. He told me that he did not have a black CR-V and would be receiving one in Feb. I then specifically asked him if he was getting it direct from the manufacturer. He said yes.
This is when I brought up "dealer holdback." I stated that since he would be selling the vehicle as soon as it hit the lot, the money that the manufacturer gave him to hold the vehicle for 90 days (dealer holdback) was pure profit and should be given to the buyer. He agreed that the money was pure profit, but he emphatically said that the dealer holdback (and floor assistance) was a non-negotiable item. He even recommended that I try another dealership to see for myself. His main arguement was that it was non-negotiable, but he also let me know that there are cars on the lot that stay more than 90 days and come out of the dealer's pocket.
Now, I'm thinking to myself, my situation is the perfect example for use of the dealer holdback negotiating tool since the dealer is selling a car the moment he receives it. But the Honda dealer seems intent on not even considering it.
Please, especialy Edmund's people, let me know whether dealer holdback is actually a practical tool or not. Thank you.
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If you make this same offer at a few dealers and they all, for whatever reason, refuse to accept, then you will probably have to increase your offer if you want the car.
That's all there is too it. The dealers can sell their cars for whatever price they want. Out goal as buyers is to get our cars for the cheapest price we can. The only way I know to do this is to offer a low price and see if they accept it.
I faxed around to several Honda dealers asking for their best price quotes for a 1999 Honda CR-V EX auto. I received a quote of $20,295 vs. the next best offer of $20,574. Pretty good for no negotiating!
Now my question is this: When I go back to the dealer who gave me the higher price quote ($20,574), should I tell him to 1) give me a better price, 2) give me it for $20,200, or 3) beat this quote for $20,295?
Although #1 appears to be the 'book' statement, it seems to beat around the bush. #2 seems too direct and very likely to be knocked down. #3, to me, seems the most logical. The way I see it is that if the dealer wants the sale, he will have to give a better price than the next lowest.
Also, am I going to need this quote in writing? The dealer just gave me the quote orally over the phone. Also, how long will this oral quote last?
Thank you very much!
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Thanks,
Ryan
If he doesn't accept, then walk out.
My dealer took my rebate after they calculated the tax. I thought rebates were non-taxable, plus when they advertise vehicles on newspapers, they list the after-rebate price, not the after-tax-rebate price.
I'm steaming mad about this... there is about a $300 difference between the before tax rebate and the after tax rebate. Can I get them for false advertising?
Thank you.
Raglan
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Thanks
Thanks