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you say you chose the Silhouette over the Odyssey and paid more for it? Wow! what is it that you like better in the Olds product that would make you pay more?
Odds & ends: replaced original battery and front rotors. I also replaced the broken rear hatch pulldown with a piece of webbing.
We also narrowed the van search down to Ody & GM Triplets, mainly because the V6 was standard. We'd had two Hondas, no Chevys. We bought the Venture, it's been great.
Did you get AWD or something?
I'm not sure what else you can get other than Nav and AWD.
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kirstie_h
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Unless GM is reading this post, they will never know of your concerns. Again, contact GM directly.
Second question is the intake manifold leak issue. How does this start? Smell of antifreeze? Puddles on the floor? Moisture near at the bottom of the interior near the heater blower outlet? I haven’t noticed anything but want to make sure I’m looking in the right spot.
Thanks for your help.
Have owed this van since new. Never had to add any brake fluid. Reservoir was still above min mark..added a little to bring to max. This sounds like air in the brake system. Do these vans have a typically spongy feel when braking? Just checking to see if anyone had similar problems before taking to dealer. Thanks
Dealer said it wouldn't hurt to contact Chevrolet Customer Service. I wrote them a long letter telling of my owing Chevy's and GM products since 1962 and describing my transaxle problem. Customer Service contacted me by phone about 5 or 6 times then they contacted the dealer. 3 months later last week. I got a call from the dealer saying that Chevy was crediting my GM Card with the repair costs. I did have the dealer change the tranny fluid and filter which I paid for....it was worth taking the time to write. GM must have a heart somewhere!
Is the pedal moving down when you keep depressing it ?
Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir and get the system checked by your mechanics a.s.a.p
Recently, we had the first brake job done on the van and the service center used ceramic pads as replacements. What a difference!!! The brake feel has dramatically improved (much firmer pedal) and stopping seems somewhat improved. You might consider using these types of pads at brake job time.
I'd sure like to have a firmer pedal feel.
Pulled off rear drums....all looked like new. Checked up front pass side ... outside pad looked good and the wear indicator metal tab was nowhere near to being where it would make the squeaking noise to signify a worn brake pad. In looking at the inner pad on piston side...it looked crumbly and thinner. Took apart and pad was floating around loose ..had lost it's bonding to backer plate and everything about the pad was rusty. Same on drivers side. Living in the northeast salt belt is hard on unprotected disc brakes.
Went to local NAPA store and bought premium pads and rotors..( rotors were ok but figured why not just do all). Brakes work fine now. I am now wondering how many other vehicles are on the road with such worn parts at 40k mile range and unsuspecting owners don't know. Maybe the companies should put the wear indicator tabs on the inner piston side pad..from my experience over the years from the 70's GM disc systems..the piston side always wears the most.
Oh sad to say the rotors from NAPA were made in China. We can't ever go to war with them..they probably make our bullets!
And on a more positive note, the Chinese are less likely to attack those who purchase their goods. I could go for some North Korean brake pads right about now.
But we digress....
In incentive news, the Venture, Silhouette and Montana are currently selling with $1,500 discounts. (AutoNews)
Steve, Host
I guess that is why they recommend a brake inspection at certain intervals.
I have 73,000 miles on my 99 Venture. Has anyone been able to get the dealer to offer a goodwill warranty for the intake manifold gasket replacement. Also, I have heard about secret warranties that only the dealership knows about, has anybody been covered under such a deal?
Also, the luggage rack is peeling in large black flakes anyone else having this problem?
Nissan replaced the v-6 in my pfinder a couple years back, a certain "run" of the blocks were bored slightly wrong, causing piston slap...I was skeptical when I first heard of it, but it definitely had the problem (noise on cold start) and they replaced it, no charge. I'll tell you what, that sort of thing will create long-term benefits for an auto manufacturer far exceeding the costs they incur for the repair
I did a lot of research into the gm vans before getting mine, and unfortunately I've never seen info on gm taking care of the intake gasket leak on the 3.4, even though it seems obvious that they SHOULD--as with my nissan example, if gm refuses to take care of a problem that is obviously a defective part (not normal wear & tear), then its gonna hurt 'em much more in the long run--I mean, if mine starts leaking, and gm does zilch for me, then gosh, even though I like my silo, my next vehicle will probably be a nissan or toyota
And don't worry, your extended service plan (from whoever you purchased it) will cover intake manifold gaskets even in the most basic powertrain versions.
If you change the rotors (which just fall off easily) you have to take off the cast iron mounting bracket for the caliper....it has treadlock on the threads so it comes of like you are stripping the threads..some factory guy put more on some of the bolts 'cause I had to back in and out and on one and use some WD-40 to help them get out. 15 mm socket does the bolts.
Wash everything with Brake Cleaner so no traces of grease or dirt remain ...and use some new thread sealant if you change the rotors. The caliper bolts didn't have any on them. If you have added any brake fluid to your reservior as the brakes wore ..it will now be overfilled due to the pistons being back where they used to be when new pads are installed..no problema!
whatever happened to the ?old idea about water getting into the system and the brake fluid needing to be changed periodically??? VW still makes you do it every 2 years!
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kirstie_h
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Everything seems to be working great except for the rear heat. I discovered this when I went to replace the anti-freeze (I've heard that 5 years/150,000 mi Dex-Cool is not all it's cracked up to be so I thought I'd flush and fill with fresh Dex-Cool). I've read the manual and believe I have the knobs set right. The hoses going to the rear heater core are cold even when the front heat is working fine. Anyone have this problem? If so, what was the cause? I haven't had time to finish the anti-freeze replacement since I discovered this problem. I plan in taking the van on a 3K mi trip soon and would like to figure this out before then.
Any help is appreciated.
Steve, Host
Thanks! Took a look at #615. Does anyone know what the TSB says that xcusme2 is referring to? The front heat seems nice and toasty. There is absolutely NO rear heat (the hoses and tubes are COLD). Sounds like the flow restrictor is for the front heater core. Also wonder what the thermostat change was (possibly a hotter one).
Does anyone know if the rear heater controls operate a valve that is only for the rear core? Maybe this is not working. It's not obvious from looking at the hoses in the engine compartment.
I figure once I get SOME warmth, I can insulate the tubes going under the floor so that they don't lose as much heat. I just can't seem to get anything remotely warm back there.
OK, I'll stop babbling.
The "T"'s are located by the firewall. The water goes from the engine to the "T" where it is split off to go to both the front and rear heaters.
Maybe the inlet "T" is clogged/restricted and not allowing any hot water to go to the back heater.
The manual only shows air control doors for the front and the back heaters to control the temp of the air. Didn't find any water valves.
As far as insulating the rear heater pipes, my 02 has been driven in 15 degrees weather and the rear heat has been hot. Not sure if that will change with age of the van.
Let me know if I can look up any thing else for you. Good luck.
Some minor scoring of the rotors will not hurt anything, I've been told.
I've also read that the reason many shops automatically turn or even install new rotors is because they get so many return visits from customers complaining of the break-in noise if they don't.
Steve, Host
Now call GM headquarters and tell them your story and that you are not satisfied with this dealer causing you and your family such problems.
Maybe, an adjustment would have saved this transmission and GM would not have to pay for a new one.
Again, I would find a different dealer to service my van.
Dealer seemed familiar with this type of problem. Removed the windshield and the liner, sealed some joints and installed a new windshield.
Leak is gone.
Key with any problem is having a service dept that listens and understands the problem rather than blow you off. I tried the Chevy dealer we bought the van from and one closer to home and was not satisfied with either one. Now I go to a Pontiac dealer that has a great service dept.
Average around 23 mpg mixed driving. Get 25 to 27 on the highway.
I check into the forum about this time every year to see if others are having the same problem. I don't recall the number of the TSB regarding the 'Low Heat' for the sister vans for years '97 thru ??? to include other models as well.
It seems hard to believe that I STILL have the problem.....lack of heat from both the front AND rear heater cores. I could write a book about what I think the problem is. For the last few months , I've been planning on finally getting to the bottom of the problem. I truly suspect that it's not just one thing. It's a design problem.
The last time I addressed the issue was last fall. I worked very closely with the dealer and GM. I had stopped at a local dealer and looked at the latest models of the Venture that the dealer had delivered from Canada. I noticed that ALL of them had an auxiliary circulating coolant pump installed in the heater lines. There was a TBS regarding this add-on pump for those vehicles that had problems with low heater performance at low idle RPM's. The add-on pump is controlled by a remote thermistor mounted in front of the radiator. It is the switch that supplies voltage to the Aux. pump at temps below 32 F. I bitc*ed loud enough and GM agreed to install it gratis. It did seem to help, but did not fully solve the problem.
As for you're problem, I agree with Just4fun2. I would start by inspecting the first 'Tee" after the heater core supply line leaves the block. The first TSB addressed this first 'Tee". The instructions were to remove the supply hose and to 'ream out the flow restrictor' from the front heater side of the 'Tee". This will improve flow to the front heater core, but will reduce flow to the rear core. Next I would check the 'Tee' FROM the rear heater core, back into the block. Removing both the supply side and return side of the rear core and doing a flow test with a garden hose ( and barb fitting) will verify that there's no blockages further back in the underbody lines or rear core. Pay attention to the bleeding of the cooling system to eliminate air from the cooling lines and block as well. Check and/or replace you're radiator cap while you're at it.
I have researched many web sites regarding the Dex-Cool issue, and gelling of the coolant if there is any air intrusion into the cooling system. Perhaps you have this kind of blockage.
I'm planning on putting up a web site detailing the fix for others who have this problem. I'll dig up the printed TSB's I have collected regarding this issue and post those as well. I surely can't be the only person with this problem. When it gets below zero, this van is no joy to drive and sadly, GM and it's dealers I've spoken to , don't have the answer beyond a band-aid type solution. The simple fact that GM had to design the aux. coolant pump to address this issue proves that there is a problem.