Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited

vascaino · November 2005

I have similar problem, but my stalls and the dianostic computer does not give a code of what the problem could be, so the mechanic has no clue where to start or what could be the problem. Any tips?

Thanks in advance

suzanof · November 2005

http://hometown.aol.com/suzanof/myhomepage/profile7.html

See my homepage for my littany of problems, also electrical.
You can complain to the US Dept of Transportation thru a link I have supplied. (It is hard to find!)
Please distribute my homepage link as you see fit.

Also, make sure that you have complained to Chrysler.

Suzan

pklems · November 2005

I know where the fuse box is, but there is no fuse for the radio and rhe cig lighter. Did you find a solution to your problem? I have the same problem now.

kvy107 · November 2005

I have a 2005 Town and Country and have noticed something I think is very wrong. When I first start the car in the morning, or after it has been off for a long time, water will leak from the exhaust pipe, not tailpipe, near the clamp. The clamp however seems tight. Water also leaks from what feels like a small hole in the catalytic converter. Once the car runs for a while, even after the car is turned off and on the leak doesn't continue. It doesn't leak when the car is shut off after operation. The temperatures have been cold to mild (20s to 50s). What can be causing this and is it dangerous? Thanks

alblue34 · November 2005

This same thing happened to my husband this weekend. The yellow engine light when on only gave him about 5 minutes to get off the the road and just died right there in the middle of the road,then he lifted the hood and smoke was coming out of the area where he thinks you put transmission fluid. What did they find out was wrong with yours,ours is in the shop now and we are waiting to hear from them,it only has 45,000 miles on it,we have the regular maintanence on it. I also keep having problems with the power steering fluid being low making the power steering grind,no evidence of it burning or seeing it anywhere outside the car but when I add more fluid the problem goes away. Im sure these are two seperate problems. We are outside our warranty by 9,000 miles and its a lease we were getting ready to purchase it but now I dont know,I really dont know what to do,I am not made of money and I need a car. I have been using the morning to read up on these Chryslers and its not a pretty story,I am amazed to see all the recalls on my car and not once ever a notice received. Im really scared to drive it now once its fixed. Any help appreciated.

97xpresso · November 2005

Those are probably weep holes at those locations to prevent standing water, should exhaust not heat up (short trip) Most DCX mini vans exhaust systems (stainless steel) out last the life of the van even when 10-15 years old.

badgerfan · November 2005

Water is one of the major products of combustion. When it is cold out and you don't run the car long, this water condenses in the exhaust system because the pipes are cold. There are built in weep holes to drain this moisture out. Sometimes it will come running out the end of the exhaust as well when the engine and exhaust pipes are still cold. Nothing to worry about. Same goes for the white clouds of vapor you get out of your exhaust when the weather is very cold, just harmless water vapor.

kvy107 · November 2005

Thanks for your help and your time to answer me. So even when it is mild outside (50s/60s) for a day or two, it will still drain. Should I throw dry gas into the tank for the water or just leave it well enough alone.

carclueless2 · December 2005

Hello, thought I could give this a shot. I just bought a used 96 T/C LX. It has 70,000 miles on it, and seems to run pretty well. Well, for starters, windshield wipers dont work properly all the time, supposedly the dealer fixed them AND our heating problem. Well the heating problem just reverts to how it used to work, IT ONLY WORKS ON HIGH, thats it. It makes sounds when i turn it to the other settings, like it wants to work, but nothing comes out. So yes at least the heat works, but only on high, I cant figure it out, and i dont want to take it back to them just for them to rig it up again. I d just rather pay for it to get done and done right. Any ideas to what may be the problem with my heating let me know, anything would be helpful.
Thanks so much
Clueless in Ohio

badgerfan · December 2005

The water is a product of combustion and is not in the gas initially or if it is, it better be in very low concentrations or you will have other problems.

Gasolene is mostly carbon and hydrogen molecules. The two main products of combustion are CO2 and H2O which is of course-water! So the water you are getting in your tailpipe is coming from the burning of gasolene in your engine.

badgerfan · December 2005

There are a set of resistors that are switched into the fan circuit that control the blower speed. It appears these resistors are shot. I don't know where they are mounted, but probably on a circuit board near the blower or somewhere else in the dash. Maybe someone else will chime in here and can give you details as to where they are.

As far as your malfunctioning wipers, this was a common issue with that era DC minivans and is I believe related to the multifunction switch in your steering column. Any good mechanic familiar with DC minivans should have seen this before and can fix it.

carclueless2 · December 2005

Thank you for responding. Ya know, thats what the dealer said it was, and it worked for about a week, sort of, it still sounded like it was struggling, but it did work at different speeds, and then it just stopped again, indefinately working on anything but high.
I wanna know how they rigged it up to work for the time being(meaning for 1 week). I just want to make sure it doesnt happen to me again. The wipers worked after they fixed them, but on a rare occasion when you turn them off, they just stop in the middle of the window and do not go to their resting position. Anyway, wipers are the least of my problems, Im way more concerned about the heat, being that its like the arctic outside. Do you think I can fix it myself or is it too labor intensive?? Anyway, thank you for your help, I really had no where to even start from. Thanks again!!
A little less clueless in Ohio:)

masterpaul1 · December 2005

Anybody know any place else that I can obtain the service manual? Daimlerchrysler want's $107 and I think this is way to much.

hayneldan · December 2005

Try EBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-DODGE-CARAVAN-CHRYS-T-C-VOYAGER-SERVICE-MANUALS_W0QQit- emZ8019827203QQcategoryZ34218QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

ramblingbubba · January 2006

We have a 2003 T & C and you and this web site just saved us from having our entire dash taken apart. I had left the lights on and after jumping the battery the speedometer and tachometer were pegged. The mechanic we took it to wanted to take the whole thing apart. My wife typed in a search and found your quick fix. It worked perfectly. Thank you.

reedsmech · January 2006

Hello ... ME TOO!
I had our 2001 T&C jumpered this weekend and after we got going --- nothing-- from the speedometer .
What did you findout was fix?
Thanks
Allan

97xpresso · January 2006

In your post, if you tab on "replying to....", it will lead you to all previous posts, to my post 1919, which explains the fix to your problem.

hansienna · January 2006

Just had safety inspection and emissions test today. Original front right disc pad measures 7/32 inch thick while rear right disc pad measures 6/32 inch at 38,000 miles.
Meanwhile, a few months ago the front tires had 8/32 inch thickness remaining on the tread while the rear tires had between 4/32 and 5/32 inch tread thickness remaining.
(The tires were not rotated until the van had gone 29,000 miles). Never required a front end alinement either.
Daughter got new tires and a new battery for her 99 GC when it had about 55,000 miles on the odometer and it now has 83,000 miles.
These are just 2 examples of reliable, dependable DC minivans.

bmajor · January 2006

hi..new here...2000 t&C 115.000MI.had to replace 2front &1rearBEARING is this a recall???/have other cars with more mi. still going.any help..please.dealer$$1,200.00

undeb · January 2006

Try to start and the engine will turn over for about 3 seconds then die. After repeated attempts (4 max) the engine will then not even turn over. Kicker is after letting the car sit for 6+ hours the car will start just fine. This problem will then not appear again for about a month. Have had the car towed to the dealership only to have the car start and no problems be found. Offered to replace the fuel pump but could not quarantee success. I have seen some discussion on this problem but hoping someone has an answer. Battery checks out fine, and have tried using different keys but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.

tsu670 · February 2006

We have a '96 T&C LXI with Michelin X-One tires. Tires are great, but those original equipment alloy wheels keep losing air. I've had the tires removed from the wheels and the inside of the wheels grinded clean, and that helped for about a year, but now the problem is back. If would be nice to have wheels that would hold pressure for more than two weeks.

Has anyone replaced their T&C alloy wheels with aftermarkets and, if so, with what?

badgerfan · February 2006

Tire dealers are supposed to apply a sealer on the rim where the tire bead seats. If they don't do a good job, the wheels can develop slow leaks. This especially shows up in the winter. The coefficient of thermal expansion is high on aluminum alloys thus it is relatively easy for a leak to develop. I have had this occur on two vehicles that the problem showed up on one of the four wheels the first winter after putting new tires on. This is not as much of a problem on steel wheels.

kick43vt · February 2006

Did you ever get this fixed? I'm experiencing the same exact phenomenom as of last night on my 2001 T&C LXi.

boogan1 · February 2006

Just bought an 01 Town and country lxi. It has a 4 disc cd changer. Last nite my wife was changing discs. She ejected disc 1, replaced it, pushed the button to load it. Then pushed the button to eject disc 2. We now have a "err" message in the window and the light on the disc 2 button is flashing. It will not eject or load or play any discs. I is acting like it is trying to do something with disc 2 then it stops and the error message returns. I consulted the owners manual and all it said was to contact a dealer for service. I don't live near a dealer so I thought I would try here for an answer. Thanks

ryguy3030 · March 2006

I'm having the exact same problem. I noticed that the PRNDL and Odometer do not light up. All other electronics seem to work fine. I had the ignition switch replaced last time. That was the best guess I received, and I wanted to start eliminating possibilities. I'd really appreciate any responses to this problem. Thanks.

landry2 · March 2006

Did you get an answer to this? I have a 2002 T&C Lxi with the same problem.

landry2 · March 2006

Did you get any answers to this problem?

slowfatrunner · March 2006

Same exact situation w/ a 2000 T&C w/ approx 60k miles. Just last week it didn't start, towed it locally and it started 15 minutes after it was dropped off (approx 30 to 45 minutes after my last failed attempt). Had the starter replaced 5 months ago; didn't help. Bought used 6 months ago and have had this starting problem 5 times since. Otherwise love the vehicle. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that my wife and children do not get stranded out of town with this problem. I would also appreciate any help. Thank you.

omahatandc · March 2006

Hello. I have hazards, but nothing with turn signals. I cannot find a turn signal relay or fuse. Anyone with experience? Thank you. Oh yeah..the car is a 2000 T&C LXi

marconey · March 2006

Have you tried banging the dash? Usually you have to do it both sides of the instrument cluster. Keep the key in the on position before you bang. If while banging, the PRNDL etc. come on, the van will start. Let me know....

scoche1 · March 2006

Did you ever fix this yourself, and if you did who had the part and where is it located in the van? Any help will be much appreciated.

'02 T&C LXI

mencius · March 2006

2002 Town and Country

Any advice on how to replace a burned out bulb in the map light on the overhead console shy of taking it to the dealer? This is a pushable switched light in the front for the driver or passenger. I cannot find instructions on this anywhere. Please help thanks.

accskyman · April 2006

Seems I'm having the same problem with an 01', although I haven't been back to the car to try and start it, it would start up about 4 or so then stall before not turning over at all. Hopefully banging on the dash or even letting it sit will help, I have read that it could have something to do with the security system?, anyway possibly by turning the key to the right then left or left then right in the door to lock/unlock it would reset. Going to give this a try, anyother suggestions I really don't want to spend a lot of money to find out that nobody knows whats going on with it.

Also there is a small red light on the hooded section with the turn signals, other indicator lights that was on before this all happened, normally it just comes on then goes off when starting the car like it was checking something. Checked the manual theres nothing about even having a red dot there and can't find anything about it online. Any ideas? Email me at rjwatt616@adelphia.net if you know what could be going on.

hayneldan · April 2006

If the red light stays on when the key is turned on but the car is not started, it is a sign that there is a problem with the sentry key immobilizer system, and it will turn the van off after a few minutes.

anjo3g1b · April 2006

96 t&c stalling while driving and hard to start or not starting at all after letting it sit for this last time about 25-30 mins it started. It turns over but just wont start til a few times, i had another car that i had to get fuel filter an fuel pump replaced reading the manuel sounds like this may be the problem what you guys think or an suggestions...................PLEESE Thanx :confuse:

masterpaul1 · April 2006

Sounds like that might be the problem. Try changing the fuel filter first, since it would be the least expensive. :shades:

marconey · April 2006

Following another post on a different forum, we had the dash cluster printed circuit board replaced on our 98 Town & Country. We have never had a problem since! For a while we managed with the dash banging trick (following suggestions from that other forum!). It used to work but then the van got to the point where it would not respond, finally it just went dead (may also be due to the damp wether here in Sacramento, CA). I explained the matter to our mechanic, he was nice enough to understand and not insist that it was something else. (well, in this particular case I had, through lot of reading/research online, come to the conclusion that the diagnosis was over 90% accurate). He was also happy that he got a head start on it! (it's a nightmare to trace an intermittent problem, moreover we had paid hundreds to supposedly diagnose this "well it doesn't do it now" problem). Anyway the problem is fixed FINALLY! (read my other post in this forum). Ofcourse Chrysler still needs more money from us to fix their problem -the speedometer and the digital odometer needs to be reset by the dealer -another $120.

We most likely won't get a Chrysler next (the number of problems are just beyond the norm). Hope this helps. Before you follow the advice in this post though, please make sure that the symptoms match the ones I had described previously; Will turn over but shut down in a couple of seconds. Bang hard on either side of the dash while the key is in the on position, if the digital odo comes to life then it will start. We could do this dash-bang only at the first or second instance of it not starting. If you keep cranking more than 3-4 times then you'll run out of luck, it will completely go dead, it won't turn over and hence the dash-banging trick won't work!

tglogan · April 2006

I have been having the same problem for almost 2 years now, with a '99 T&C . I have taken my van in to the Chrysler mechanics several times to get no answer. They just keep finding other problems that need to be fixed, that they think might be fixing it. We have spent well over $1,000 trying to get this one problem fixed. and then to top it all off I had to get the transmission replaced last week. Only to get it back and not be able to use it. I am sick of not knowing what is wrong with it. I just want to be able to depend on my, since I have 5 kids that depend on me. I would appreciate any information that anyone has on this problem.

tglogan · April 2006

I can't find your previous post in another forum. Please let me know what your problems were. I will go out to start my van, it will turn over and shut off after a couple of secs. After I do this several 4 or 5 times, it won't even turn over. I go back and try it about an hour later, and it starts up just fine. I have taken it to the dealer several times and they haven't been able to find the problem because they can't get it to do it again. Please let me know how you found the problem. Thank you.

Vipergg · April 2006

you should be able to gently pry around the outside edges of the lense with a flat bladed tool or screwdriver and it should pop out .

accskyman · April 2006

tglogan, sounds like what was wrong with my vehicle. you should have grey keys instead of black, and when you turn the ignition to "start" when all of the lights do thier checks there should be a little red dot somewhere in the middle of your cluster or under the hooded area with the turn signals/check engine lights if your vehicle has that. If that dot doesnt come on and you have the grey keys then the light is burnt out, if its not then it should come on and go out within a few seconds of putting the key in start or starting the car, if it doesn't go out then when you start the car the car will shut off in 2 seconds, 4 or 5 times then not start at all. Simply it thinks you don't have the correct key and that you must be a thief. Take it to the dealer and tell them there must be something wrong with the "Sentry Key Immobilizer System".

ghindy · April 2006

Does anyone know why all of sudden my red anti-theft or security light flashes 5 times and then stops flashing. It used to flash approx. every second while the vehicle was turned off and key removed from ignition. Help.. perplexed.

phillymom · April 2006

We are considering a 2003 T&C ex model with 1 owner and 31,500 miles on it (Certified from a dealer). I am reading some trans issues ...is this common with this model?

I also read in some other forums Chrysler has offered a 7years/70K warranty on this model? Can anyone confirm?

97xpresso · April 2006

I believe the 2003's came with a 7/70,000 powertrain warranty. If it is dealer certfied, isn't the warranty 8/80,000 from date of original puchase? The trans issues were mostly on pre 2000 models before the use of ATF+4 fluid. How much are they asking?

phillymom · April 2006

Thanks, Yes it is dealer cert 8/80,000 and they are asking $15,999 (good or bad price?)

fdm2000 · April 2006

I have searched unsuccessfully for a Chilton or Haynes repair manual for the 2004 Dodge Caravan or T&C. Does anyone know if there is a repair manual available for the 2004s? Need to do a brake job and would like to review any changes/differences from the older vans.

phillymom · April 2006

Well we just bought a 2003 EX model. I had seen for this year they offered a add on cargo organizer. Does anyone have one and are they worth the $250 price tag?

I have kids in the 3rd row and also always carry a small stroller so I thought this would be something that would give me more organized cargo space since it is 2 tier

shipo · April 2006

Our 2003 DGC ES has the cargo shelf and I think it is wonderful. Just this last weekend we were down in New Jersey and one of our old neighbors gave us several (rather dirty) pots full of newly dug-up Day Lillies. Given that the cargo area of our van was rather full with soft luggage and such, I needed an area to put the pots where they wouldn't tip, where the wouldn't crush other things and where other things wouldn't crush them. When we got home to New Hampshire they were in perfect condition and all I needed to do was to vacuum out the bin areas (the shelf has two swing up dividers that then form three separate compartments).

Is it worth $250? Yup, every penny.

Best Regards,
Shipo

masterpaul1 · April 2006

We have a 01 DGC EX with the cargo organizer and it's wonderful and worth the $250. It serves as a security cover for the things stored underneath. You can even lower it to the floor if you like. (That would be good for items that needs standing up.) It's easier to get to bags from the third row without having to hang over the seat, when it's in the raised position. We get the most use of ours, when doing grocery shopping. Also, you can remove the whole thing out of the van, it's very easy and takes up no room when having to store it. (This is one thing that you will not find on the competition or vans that have a third row that folds into the floor.)

otwolimited · April 2006

I HAVE 2002 WITH 70K MILES AND IT DOES THE SAME THING. I CHANGED THE PLUGS NAD IT STILL DOES IT. ANYONE WITH ANY SUGGESTIONS BEFORE I START CHANGING AND/OR CLEAN PARTS.
THANKS!!!!!!!

Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited

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