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I will say, the quickie places are well known for this though.
I hear that the dealers can change the rate and residual and term to fit my monthly payment, but if you already take the term out and say i want 36 month, and $$$$ monthly payment, would i be putting myself in a position where i will be ripped off?
Let's use a car that has a MSPR of 30K.
Thanks for your input.
the price only matters if you are planning to buy afterwards. if not, then your expenses are the same whether its a $400 payment at MSRP or a $400 payment at invoice.
if the payment is too high at MSRP, then obviously you go to the price.
Must vary by make and location.
I'm getting ready to trade in a 2002 Chevrolet s-10 Extreme pickup, with a little over 16k miles. I haven't been able to determine what a good trade in value for this truck would be. Any ideas?
Also, my son has installed a "system" in it with a speaker box behind the front seats. Should I remove the system, or would I be better off leaving it in there, since anyone wanting to buy this thing would probably want one in it?
Thanks in advance for your answer!
also, for a good idea of trade-in, go to the "real world trade-in values" discussion. give terry all the specifics, and you should get something within a few hundred bucks.
And, yes, ask Terry in that other board. He will need all of the details, miles, transmission etc and where you live.
I know, in my neck of the woods, it's pretty soft in the market right now.
The buyer's better off with a higher MF and lower selling price, though, since if the lease is held to term, it makes zero difference, but if the buyer decides to buy out the lease before the term expires, then he'll pay less (buyout price is lower with a lower initial price, but declines more slowly, so that the two buyout prices merge after 36 months).
My 94 Escort had a big stereo system in it before I got it, the guy had yanked it out, took us an hour to pull all the wires out of that car. When we were done we had 3 lbs of speaker wires laying on the garage floor.
But, if you don't know how they arrive at the numbers, you could be paying more than you have to. Why pay $XXX/month for a Honda Odyssey, if you can actually get the lease for ($XXX minus $30/month)?
Some cars are lousy deals to lease... Most domestics, Mazdas and a few others come to mind. Mostly, because they have low residual values. Others are great deals.. I mentioned the Odyssey because it is especially cheap to lease right now. That is actually a $30K car that you can lease for $300/month.
Knowing the cap cost, residual, and money factor will make you a smarter consumer and save you money. If you are willing to spend $300/month, but find out you can get it for $270.. that is a good thing.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
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Edmunds Moderator
Just like cars there are promotions and rebates and discounted interest programs - and on it goes. However they don't even give out free coffee and donuts in the repair section at the appliance store - Imagine that !
Does anyone have any idea of what kind of negotiated discount I could reasonably expect from an appliance like a new refrigerator.
Any info or comments would be appreciated?
Some cars.. such as the Honda Accord are going for close to invoice right now.. While an Acura TSX might be bringing $1000-$1500 over. If you narrow your search, you can check the prices paid forums to at least get a ballpark figure. That is a good place to start.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
-Dan-
She wants a 2004 Honda Civic LX Sedan (Automatic)
Edmunds Invoice: $15,261
Edmunds TMV: $15,218
I see dealer cash of $400
I currently have a out the door price of: $14,980
Carsdirect states...
Invoice: $15,261
Target Price: $ 15,461
I see on what prices people paid that on average they are paying $14,700 - $14,450 for automatics.
What am I missing here? With only $400 in dealer cash why would a dealer go into holdback so much? Is there more dealer cash available that I am missing?
Please let me know.
Thanks!
Bill
The cheap prices also may have to do with # of units necessary to move for monthly allocations. A Civic is a cheap unit to dump, since there isn't much mark-up to begin with.
Bill
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Thanks and please continue the interesting discussion.
Car_man
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That one always puzzles me. No store would ever disclose information about what someone paid for their car for one thing.
Never once, has a customer of mine told me that someone called asking what they paid.
So...how does anybody know?
And, I think most people would tell a caller that it's None of Their Business what they paid for something. I know I would.
Besides, nost people quickly forget what they paid for something. Most aren't as obsessed over PRICE like some who frequent these forums.
No secret cash either.
Well I fought this battle and no one will budge under 14,800 here. So only one dealer is offering the free tires for life promotion. We have that dealer at $14,900 out the door. So we have decided to close with this dealer. If anyone thinks I have a bad price please speak up now.
Keep in mind invoice is: $15,261
Dealer cash from manufacture is: $400
No manufacture to customer rebates.
Thanks
Bill
Bill
You don't seriously expect any of the dealers here to respond without talking to their managers do you?
I don't like the free tire deals, but hey, go for it. Usually, to qualify for the "free tires for life", you have to follow the dealer's maintenance schedule, which adds mucho fluff over the manufacturer's schedule, and you pay retail for every 7,500, 15,000, 30k, and 60k service - hundreds, and possibly thousands of dollars over what the manufacturer recommends during ownership.
All that for a couple of sets of cheesy (they aren't using Michelins, I promise) tires? Nope, not me.
And Bowke, keep that property a secret....:) I'm very interested, give me a call 987-555-1234
That doesn't mean someone somewhere won't get it for a couple hundred less, but the price is good.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
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I've learned to stay out of the Prices Paid forums. A lot of these "prices" are simply not for real. People forget what they paid, and some, I think, just make up stories.
Not too many invoice deals in the Great Northwest are there? That is one thing I've learned from the prices paid boards... All the Oregon and Washington buyers are looking out-of-state.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
It is amazing to watch what some people will do in oder to "save" 50.00!
It's not the money, it's just pure cheapness in a lot of cases.
He knew less about the Murano and the Maxima than I did. And I did all my research on-line. I just wanted to see them up close and test drive.
Anyway, he started telling me about his personal life and how selling cars is a side line because he has a business that takes up most of his *real* time and he sells cars for fun. (Sure-insert eye roll) I listened while nodding and *Umming.*
I told him I was not quite ready to sign and would call and/or come back in the next few months if I cannot get out of my lease. (long story)
Bottom line, I would like to get another salesman, when I go back to the dealer. How bad is it to try to ditch him for someone else? And how do I do this? I did not feel he was into selling, knew what he was doing and he really did not seem interested in the autos...he was more interested in telling me about his personal life and trying to glean personal facts about mine.
Thanks for the advice.
tell him that you need to talk with someone that has a bit more product knowledge, and would like another, more experienced salesperson. be upfront. this will accomplish 3 things:
1) he will be ok with it, because he will still get 1/2 the deal.
2) you will get a better salesman.
3) it will motivate him to learn his product knowledge better.
in 5 years, noone has ever had the guts to tell me they werent comfortable. if they had, i would probably have at least an extra deal every month.
also, the manager will appreciate it at negotiation time. you just helped them make a deal more likely.
Anyways, Drift I said my lowest qoute was 14800. 14900 is what she settled on because of the free tires for life offer. The dealer put down on paper that they will install the same exact tires that came from the factory when she bought the car. Plus the dealership was closer to her house so she felt it was worth the extra $100 I guess.
You want to know what's really strange. When you guys tore into me about the last deal we spoke about alot of you mentioned that I should of looked at the prices paid board before I made the deal. Now you guys totally reverse your story saying those stories could be fabricated.
Interesting!
Bill
Before I get into the financial office, any suggestions or help on what I should be paying for an extended warranty and are they transferable if I sell the vehicle. I read about a Platinum warranty in the archives. What is this? Would love any suggestions.
Sounds like you are a few months out anyway.
How much of a loss would a dealership be willing to take to get rid of this car?
Turboshadow
The car that nobody wants today is a car that nobody will want as a used car when you want to sell it someday.
Today's "bargain" will probably become a serious problem later for you.
the "prices paid" boards are simply a way for insecure people to "one-up" each other about how much money THEY SAY their dealer lost.
That brings up an interesting point...if resale isn't an issue, what's the best deal on a) new and b) used cars?
Turboshadow
Anyways the best deal is what you feel comfortable paying. But if you want to get technical the best deal to me in my opinion would be this. Dealers correct me if I am wrong.
Used cars... Target would be Edmunds trade in values or less for example. Reality would be somewhere inbetween private party and trade in value if your buying off the street from someone.
If your buying from a dealer target would still be trade in but reality would be private party at best. Sometimes I see them go under private party but its not everyday.
New cars...
invoice - any incentives and rebates and if your lucky - some of the holdback.
Keep in mind supply and demand is what truly drives prices.
If you really want to get the best deal make sure you understand what a dealer will really pay for your trade in. And no its not guide book trade in values such as what Edmunds,KBB,NADA publishes. Usually your better off selling the car yourself unless your state allows you to deduct the amount you got from your trade against the amount you paid for the new car. Then you might be better off trading it in because now your paying less excise tax. You really just have to do the math to see which one way is better.
Always keep the new car negotiations and the trade in negotiations seperate. That way you can tell how much your really getting paid for the trade in and how much your really saving on the new.
Last but not least know your credit score and how it can affect your interest rate.
i wouldnt shoot for edmunds trade-in value as a target. use that number, add $500, and then add about 2%, and you have a SERIOUS target. but also, dont expect your target to be a realistic #, just as bill said.
I once picked up a 99 Honda Civic in great shape miles equal to the year for Edmunds trade in value. Couple was wealthy and to be honest they just wanted it out of their driveway. I told them what I would give them and they took my first offer. Didn't even try to negotiate. So it is possible to buy at such low prices you just have to be in the right place at the right time.
1. at a dealer auction, with no test-drive or reconditioning.
2. from an UNINFORMED seller.
so you, as an informed person, took advantage of an elderly person...sounds like you are no better than car dealers, bill.