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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems

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Comments

  • stigmatastigmata Member Posts: 10
    I have a '95 villager and the transmission will not shift unless I am close to 6000 rpm's or if I lift on the accelerator. I also Have no speedometer until the old girl warms up. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    I'm no expert but... could be your VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I think that would explain both symptoms.

    Dave
  • kgdtechkgdtech Member Posts: 3
    Resistor Location?
  • stigmatastigmata Member Posts: 10
    Its under the passengers side just to the left of the blower motor.. 2 bolts and it comes out.
  • sitanositano Member Posts: 5
    When I was replacing the rear brake light bulb I noticed that the tail light assembly was full of water!!! OK, I live in Seattle but this seemed out of ordinary. Anyone have a clue?? Where is it coming from?? How to stop it?? Or do I just drill a little drain hole to let the water out.... :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Tail light lens gasket probably...this is the seal that goes around the entire tail light assembly...sometimes they are replaceable, sometimes not. One trick is to remove the entire light body and reseal it using black LATEX caulking compound....LATEX...easy clean up.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My left front brake is making a racket and eyeballing it with the tire off; well, it's hard to see, but I guess I'm due for new pads. I barely have 28,000 miles on these. Maybe it's just dust. :shades:

    I think I put Raybestos pads on last times with new rotors. Maybe I'll go back to OEM or whatever is over the counter at NAPA and see if the existing rotors will work without chattering on me.

    Did you swap out your last set of pads you got from Tire Rack Dave?

    What's your mileage now anyway (or is the Accord getting all the driving duty)?

    Steve, Host
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    I put the front pads in mine... no problems. The brake pedal seems to be dropping farther than it was, though. I didn't open any bleeders or mess with the calipers at all. I tried adjusting the back brakes, and it didn't help. I guess i'll try bleeding the fronts and see if it's any better.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • dhoffdhoff Member Posts: 282
    Steve-

    Our van is at 145,000 miles now. I do have new pads & rotors sitting in the garage, just waiting for a warm weekend day to install them. Those are hard to come by lately. We just had a little snow this morning.

    I bought Raybestos Quiet Stop pads and Brembo rotors. We'll see hows it goes.

    The Accord is seeing a lot of use, though I do find the Quest much more comfortable to drive.

    Dave
  • sakevsakev Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem, also check the fuses and replaced the relays without any luck. Any news on your side? thanks
  • marku1marku1 Member Posts: 11
    The manual makes it sound pretty easy to replace the axles. Kind of Scary! The book reads, pop the old out, push the new in. Is it really that simple?

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    lol, nope. I had help when I did my passenger side front axle and that was nice. Once you figure out how it fits, it is sort of easy, but horsing stuff around (lying on your back in the typical home owner garage) doing something you haven't attempted before ... well, it's a slow go for those of us who aren't especially handy that way.

    The Raxles site has some good generic instructions too. I think the manual assumes you have been a mechanic for years.

    Definitely doable though. A friend is a big help and having a second car in case you need to let it sit a day or two while your knuckles heal is also handy. :shades:

    Steve, Host
  • eavoulgariseavoulgaris Member Posts: 1
    We own a 2000 Villager Estate, 100K, engine light came on and we had similar issues with engine light that I've seen on these pages. NOC sensor code came back. We took it to the dealer, and they couldn't get the number 5 plug out to change it so we changed 5 of six plugs! Two days after we get the vehicle back my wife tries to start the car and reports electrical surges and then poof nothing. No electricity whatsoever. She couldn't unlock/lock a door with the key, or key fob. Power windows wouldn't shut and no courtesy lights. Can anyone help?
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Can't believe a dealer couldn't get a plug out. I always change plugs at 30-40,000 even if the manufacturer calls for 100,000. If they're in too long, they seem to seize to the head.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • wpaa8wpaa8 Member Posts: 1
    Golly - I have the same problem on my 99 villager. Just how does one repair the radio display? Apparently this is a common problem.

    Bill
  • dwaltmandwaltman Member Posts: 1
    You may want to try to pressure test the cooling system. I use to put about 15 to 20 pounds in the system and start moving hoses. If no leak is visible then suspect a head gasket in failure mode. Check the condition of the oil - look at the oil on the dipstick or the next time you change oil. White or a milky thick material in the oil would indicate water contamination; either from short trips that does not allow the car to warm up or coolant finding its way into the crankcase. Look at your exhaust with the van running when it is hot. Traces of white smoke is telltail of coolant finding its way into the combustion chamber, you may smell a sweet odor as well. This is a certain sign that the head gasket(s) are failing.

    Our family just purchased a 99 mercury villager sport that is loaded and very nice cond. So far the car seems to be pleasant to drive and efficient on fuel. Any other opinions would be appreciated.

    Thank you

    dwaltman
  • jrossmanjrossman Member Posts: 2
    Remove the front A/C control console completely from the vehicle and remove the plastic cover from around the circuit board. Examine the underside of the circuit board closely and you will see a solder crack around the base of the relay on the circuit board. If you have a good quality soldering iron, it can be resoldered. Otherwise, take it to a professional electronics person to re-solder it for you.
  • jw1096jw1096 Member Posts: 2
    Calling all experts...I have a 1999 Villager mini van, 115K Miles, and as I cruised over 55mph, the vehicle vibrates...the windows and chairs rattled and the steering wheel shake as I go on high speed(only high speed). Went to garage first to replace rear brake (no rattle issues then) and now I am a proud owner of the RATTLING problem. Been to two garages and have replaced both front axle, four new tires, new rear brakes and drums. One garage done a spin test on the wheels and no tire tread or rim problem. Vehicle still vibrates and I suggested to garage to perhaps do alignment and check the tie rod etc but they say this is not an alignment problem. Can the black belts please lend me a hand? Cannot afford a new vehicle. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I think it would be interesting to run the vehicle up in the air in gear and see if you get the vibration at the RPM equal to 55 mph in top gear. If not, then it's a rear wheel problem.

    If this vibration only starts at around 55 mph, then replacing the axles was a very bad guess on the part of the garage, as axle issues will cause vibration at a certain RPM even in first gear.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Wouldn't the axle turn at the same speed as the wheel or final drive, making it more of a speed rather than rpm issue? It still sounds like a wheel balance or tire problem, though.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • phoenixfyrephoenixfyre Member Posts: 1
    I've got a problem with the automatic transmission in my 93 MV Van. upon accelerating from a stop, the gear does not automatically change...have to bring up to 4K RPM and 30 MPH, then ease of accelerator and wait til shift. Sounds like Speed Sensor, but not sure...any ideas?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes the axle turns at the speed of the wheel, but an out of balance axle is going to act up way sooner than waiting for wheel speed to equal 55 mph. And yes it sounds like a speed issue not an RPM issue...which sounds like wheel balance or bad tires.
  • will21will21 Member Posts: 1
    A bad throttle position sensor could cause that problem.
  • cdacscdacs Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem on my 1993 mercury villager. It has 156,000 miles on it and it starts to vibrate at 60 mph. I am thinking of changing the struts and shocks(its due for a change anyway) and having all four wheels aligned. I was curious if you've fixed your problem and how?
  • njgirl3njgirl3 Member Posts: 3
    Seems like a pretty easy question, right?

    My mechanic is telling me that I need to have the timing belt replaced at 105K. My brother & cousin that sell cars for a living say that they car has a timing chain & the mechanic is wrong.

    Who is right?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The '99 Quest has a timing belt and the recommended change interval is 105,000 miles, and since the Villager is a twin, I'm assuming it has the same change recommendation interval. But I'm not finding it in the Edmunds Maintenance Guide schedules.

    Several of us with this model year haven't bothered to change our belts since we think we have non-interference engines. Mine's a '99 Quest btw.

    Your relatives can look up the belt specs at Gates.com if they don't believe me. :shades:

    Steve, Host
  • njgirl3njgirl3 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply! Has anyone ever confirmed that it's a non-interference engine or are ya'll just hoping it is?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    lol, this is the never-ending question. Gates says it's interference, but I think they are wrong based on other stuff I've read here and elsewhere. The Pathfinder, which has a similar engine, is interference, and I think that's part of the confusion.

    Here's a good reason to go ahead and change the belt:

    marku1, "Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems" #2276, 8 Feb 2006 8:19 am

    Steve, Host
  • njgirl3njgirl3 Member Posts: 3
    Steve, I read that thread and I don't understand why he replaced it? Because he was already having problems with the car anyway?? As far as I can tell I don't have those problems- still have lots of power, no hesitation, and I get on average 25mpg on the highway, so I think I'm doing ok.

    What's with those cracked engine mounts they told me about? Is that a frequent/costly repair? If I don't get them fixed, the engine could just fall out of the car, correct?

    I've had the right axle replaced, and the front brakes done, but other than that, I've only had fluids in the car replaced/flushed (oil, coolant, etc). I haven't done anything else to the car which is why I have a steep learning curve now in regard to all of this.

    Thanks for your replies!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Regular maintenance (including a visual inspection of belts to spot any fraying, etc.) will help keep you from getting stranded.

    That said, I'm more of a deferred maintenance person myself. I'm overdue for new plugs and fluids right now, but it's on my list (sometime this summer, lol!).

    Yeah, engine mounts are a big deal. A busted mount can cause you to have an accident. Something else I need to check on mine soon. I don't think they are too pricey in the overall scheme of things.

    Steve, Host
  • cdacscdacs Member Posts: 3
    To all,

    I just had my villager serviced. changed the four tires, shocks and struts, all four wheels aligned and balanced....SOLVED!

    ran the new jersey turnpike at 80 mph and it was running beautifully!

    If i had to narrow it down though i think the alignment is what the problem was.

    Hope this helps those with the same problem
  • marku1marku1 Member Posts: 11
    I replaced the timing belt because it was the cause of the engine performance problems. Actually, I was lucky because normally the belt does not give any clue that it is about to break. The only way to know it is time is to look at the mileage. This is the basic truth about timing belts- You will replace it, now or after it breaks. It is easy to delay because you think "I'm doing O.K." But this is not a belt you can open the hood and inspect for damage.
    As for the motor mounts, they are inexpensive, around $30. each. They are not hard to replace yourself as long as your jack can get the van more than three inches off the ground! The mounts are not traditional mounts. They are essentially motor "hangers". They are made with a steel body and a rubber insert. Sounds normal, except the rubber is not solid, it has gaps that allow the engine to remain "suspended". I assume this was done to provide a smoother ride. What is does is make for some weak mounts. Even if the mounts break, your engine will not "fall out". The engine mounting bolt goes through the steel sleeve on the mount. So if the rubber shreds, like mine, the steel will "catch" it. Just a theory but I think the excessive movement from the broken mounts was the reason my exhaust studs broke. The studs are a REAL problem with this van (read the tales of misery).
    To summarize, if the odometer reads 100,000+, change the belt, even if you pay someone to do it for you it will be cheaper than the tow when it breaks. As for the mounts, $120. for a new set is hundreds less than replacing exhaust studs. Bite the bullet or wait and pay BIG!
    Advice from a guy who has been there and done that.
    Mark
  • cdacscdacs Member Posts: 3
    Mark,

    Just curious. How much did changing the timing belt set you back?

    Carlo
  • dougmacdougmac Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Mercury Villager with a timing belt.
    Owners manual says replace every 60,000mi. Is the engine the interference type?(which will self destruct if timing belt breaks). The van has 162,000 miles, I bought it with 117,000--I'm assuming(hoping) the first owner replaced it at 60,000.
  • marku1marku1 Member Posts: 11
    I had to replace my water pump (leaking), so I already had removed the covers, belts, and hoses. The belt was less than $50. The mech. wanted $450 and $100. of that was for the water pump. Five hours for $450., no thanks. If you want, this IS the type of service you can do yourself. If the money is not an issue (around $350.), have a mech. do it. One thing to remember, if you do it yourself, you will need a crank pulley strap to hold the crank pulley still while removing the bolt.
  • dougmacdougmac Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Villager, and am trying to answer the same question. Any help would be appreciated.
  • dougmacdougmac Member Posts: 3
    I found timing belts on the internet yesterday (brand new, of course) selling for 25 to 35 bucks, depending on the manufacturer (shipping included).
  • jw1096jw1096 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to everyone for their inputs.

    I have four new tires all balanced, new struts and new axles and still have vibration at high speed. Did not change shocks nor align the wheels though. Do you think alignment will fix the vibration problem? I can understand doing alignment if vehicle is pulling to one side more than the other. What do everyone think? Still trying to fix the problem. Help!
  • lampwalklampwalk Member Posts: 17
    Help with whether to fix this. 93 Nissan Quest with almost 200,000 miles had timing belt break. Owner will let us have the vehicle if we pay for the repair. Does this mean a new engine or rebuilding the old engine? What else will/can go wrong at this mileage? Supposedly, transmission has not been rebuilt or replaced.

    This is a Maxima engine, so, if rebuilt, what additional mileage can we expect, also what cost to rebuild transmission BEFORE it blows and what else could go wrong?

    This will be a vehicle for my daughter and her husband once repaired, so don't want them to get a whole new set of problems!

    We were the original owners of the van and sold it to some friends 4 years ago and they just forgot to change the timing belt.
  • lampwalklampwalk Member Posts: 17
    Did you ever get an answer to this problem? We have a similar vehicle in mind--a 93 Quest GXE with a little over that mileage and the owner said the timing belt broke, damaged the engine and to repair it would be $1000, but wonder if the damaged valves could also do something to the computer control module and if this would jsut be the beginning of problems? A year later, if you are still on board, what happened with this Quest?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a bad idea all around. The engine probably is damaged, and rebuilding it would cost more than the entire van is worth even in perfect condition. You'd be much better off just buying a good used vehicle. I think this van is done for, given the mileage and the situation.
  • klowklow Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a flashing airbag light that came on on my 97 Quest after I replaced the blower motor during which I had to unplug the two pin connector of the passenger side airbag that is on behind the glove compartment. I did not think I had done anything to the airbag system other than by disabling so it will not goes off accidentally.

    Please advice on how I can reset the flashing airbag light. I hate to bring in to the dealer and have them charge me $$$. Thanks a lot in advance!

    KK
  • theflushtheflush Member Posts: 100
    I'm considering buying an 01 Villager Estate with 73K miles.

    What type of issues do I need to worry about with this van?
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    :confuse: Hi,
    may sound like a stupid question but i had problem on my 96 villager where a/c was not coming on. I checked the switch located on top of a reservoir towards rear-left side of the engine compartment. I unplugged the switch and using a cabel jumped the contacts and my a/c came on. Now is that a low pressure switch or a/c relay switch ? and also if has anyone replaced it, can you please share your experience?
    here's the picture
    imagethanks
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    All in all they are pretty good vans for the money. Some seem to have electrical glitches (power locks, blower fans etc.) And it seems like a lot of people have had problems with a sticky throttle body, which is easily fixed with spray cleaner. Some of the earlier models had exhaust studs that broke, but I think that was fixed by the '01 year. Just don't expect the features or refinement of an '06 Honda, Toyota, or even a Chrysler.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • azadazad Member Posts: 1
    I've had a squeal in my 95 villager also. After careful observation, I found an IDLER "pulley" which was making the noise. Cost at local auto parts store was under $30.for the new pulley(installed it myself) and squeal was gone.
  • stephen16stephen16 Member Posts: 4
    A few weeks ago I took my 2002 Quest in to have the breaks replaced. Now my rear brake lights don't work, but the rear lights are fine. I took the van back in to the shop that did the brakes, and they checked all the fuses and wires and told me that they couldn't find any problems. The little brake light at the top still works.

    Any ideas on what I should check and where I should look? I don't know for sure if the lights were working before the brakes were replaced, so I'm not sure if this was an existing problem or a new problem.

    I'm am also noticing that whenever I apply my new brakes to stop, they squeak. Is that normal for new brakes? They weren't making any sounds at all before I replaced them.
  • ggroot30ggroot30 Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 2001 Quest along with the built in tv/vcr unit in the console. Can I tune in to local television stations, or does this unit only play vcr cassettes?

    A couple of other questions:
    Is there a way to prevent the gear shifter (the lever that you use to select drive, etc.) from incessantly rattling?

    Is there a way to adjust the lumbar support on the driver's seat? It feels like there is a metal bar pushing against the small of my back!

    Thanks for your help.
  • dpfmbadpfmba Member Posts: 1
    Thought I would throw this out before heading to a mech. 2001 Villager A/C compressor intermittantly cycles on and off (every 5 to 10 seconds) when turned on. Low side pressure was low so R134a was added but the compressor continues its start/stop cycling. Could a switch be causing this or is the compressor shot?
  • dmbslcdmbslc Member Posts: 2
    it is supposed to cycle. If you added too much R134 it can cause the high pressure shut off switch to cylce it even quicker to avoid damaging the pump.

    hope this helps.
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