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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • ggroot30ggroot30 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Nissan Quest and cannot seem to be able to get the rear vents to blow hot air. When I turn up the temperature of the air up front, it has no bearing on the temperature of the air coming from the rear vents. Is this normal?

    Also, how do you change channels on the console t.v.?
  • Thanks Dave since my last post i have replaced both right and left lines and both callipers. After road testing the right wheel now turns freely whereas the left now is locked and smoking :( Im thinking about looking at the valve at the master cylinder although i dont understand why only one side would stick as both the right and left front brakes run from the same line until it reaches the actuator.
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282

    The upper rear vents on the 99-02 Quest/Villager will not supply heated air, they are only for a/c or ventilation. The rear heat air is supplied through vents located under the front seats.

  • eveenickeveenick Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I am new to the site and have learned so much by reading the previous posts. I have a 96 Mercury Villager and it recently started having problems gathering speed and kind of lurching if I would try to accelerate to quickly. Now, it won't even start. We are thinking that it may be the fuel filter. Where is the fuel filter located on the 96 Villager? (Keep your fingers crossed that it's not the fuel pump-I really don't want to deal with taking the gas tank out). Thanks for any help you can give me. :sick:
  • I just replaced my '93 Villager with a '95 Quest GXE. I found that I have no interior lights. No dash, dome, step or cargo lights. Every other light and electrical feature works fine. I feel silly saying it but I can't find the fuse for the interior lights. I checked under the dash and hood... Nothing. The owners manual and Haynes manual say nothing about the fuse for the interior lighting. Can anyone help?? Thanks so much!!
  • The filter is under the hood, clamped onto the back firewall not too far from the air filter. It's about the size of a coffee cup. Take it out of it's clips and you can get to the fuel lines. Nice and easy. I just repalced my '93 Villager with 253,000 miles on it. Good luck.
  • eveenickeveenick Posts: 2
    Thanks so much! I hope that's what the problem is. I thought it was underneath the van. Sounds easier than I was predicting. I had a Plymouth Voyager that was a pain to replace the fuel filter in. Boy, I hope mine makes it as long as yours. Thanks again!
  • Well this is my story that may help another, 99 villager sport with a laundry list of problems... started fixing them Fuel filter, air filter, stabalizer links, ball joint, cv boot axle, ect.... I won't boar you villager owners with all of the items, as I'm sure you must know already!... Anyhow over the last few months I noticed my fuel mileage going down quickly, and it was running poor, idle surging, and stalling at lights... I did alot of research on the internet cause Im Not cheap, I just hate spending money (espically on "Rip Offs" I mean mechanics) with alot of possibilities including, Distributor, idle control motor (IAC), Vacume leak, (TPS) throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, IAT sensor, Temp Sensor, Holy crap I said! the vans value is next to worthless! and every part is so expensive! So I did wiggle check on every wire connector... Anyhow, I Then I pulled the Entire air breather system out for a better look and I noticed the air cleaner box seal was broken. when I had changed the air filter 5 months ago I unclipped and slid the filter down into the box and it missed on the back edge upon closing the case. I quickly opened the unit to inspect and i found the Screen in front of the MAF sensor was aprox 1/3 plugged with dirt and leaves. I carefully cleaned it away from MAF sensor. and Put the thing back together. wow idles fine now fuel milage has increased from 12 to 17 mpg in the city I suspect my o2 sensors are now on the way out so I will be changing them soon. Hope to have fuel milage 22+ This was brought on by my own lazyness and not ensuring the filter was seated properly. Hope this helps someone else in the same situation.... :) Goodluck!
  • jnettjnett Posts: 2
    I have the same codes on my 2000 villager ppfriar. I've found other folks with the same codes listed, but NO certain resolution ever given. The closest I've come is finding the same combo of codes listed from a 2000 Maxima (this is the 3.0l engine that used to be standard in the quest/villager before 99) and the resolution he found was the ignition coils. I set off looking to replace the ignition coils in my villager only to find that they are "integrated" in the 99-2002. I believe they are "integrated" into the distributor.

    I've changed both the upstream and downstream o2 sensors, haven't messed with the knock sensor because the Tech manual says that the KS will not trip the computer itself and I'm ready to change the plugs, wires and distributor cap and rotor but fear I'll have to change the distributor as well (it's pricey!).

    Please, if you found a sure resolution for this let me know :-[

  • mjeongmjeong Posts: 4
    Came across this web site for courtesy nissan for a timing belt kit I think is a good price $236.86: oduct_Code=V41-TBKITA

    Timing Belt Kit for the Quest includes:
    Timing belt(1)
    Timing belt tensioner(1)
    Tensioner spring(1)
    Tensioner stud(1)
    Front crankshaft oil seal(1)
    Camshaft oil seals(2)
    A/C Compressor drive belt(1)
    Fan and alternator drive belt(1)
    Powersteering drive belt(1)
    Water pump assembly(1)
  • mashinmashin Posts: 4
    Hello everyone! I am new on this forum and needs your help. I have '95 quest (original owner) with 90k miles. Recently power steering fluid had a leak and mechanic replaced hose to fix this leak. After this I noticed a weird problem i.e. when car is idling in park and you turn steering wheel right or left: RPM jumps up about to 1250 (normally it idles at 7500rpm) OR whenever you stopped at traffic light and i move steering wheel back & forth and rpm jumps up again to 1250rpm. I never had this kind of problem before, Could you please advise me and help me out what mechanic did wrong (he said that he just replaced leaky hose)? I thank you All and look forward to hearing expert help.
  • jnettjnett Posts: 2
    Hello Folks,
    I've searched several forums to see if anyone has a real "fix" for this combination of codes. The closest I've come is a Maxima owner (3.0l engine they had in the 98 and earlier quest/villager) who said that changing the ignition coils did the trick for him. Anyone with a 99 or later 3.3l engine with these codes and what you found to correct them.

    I've changed the downstream o2 sensor and the upstream sensor to no avail. I've read someone talking about their mechanic suggesting rotor, distributor cap and plugs and wires while you're at it, but again no word as to any resolution.

    I'm ready to change each of these items along with the distributor as I got a very cheap deal on one recently. It runs OK, but I guess I'm a bit obsessive with the blasted cel!

    The way I understand it, the knock sensor is likely coming on as a result of a fault in the O2 heater causing the engine to idle more roughly and then the knock sensor is kicking in? Don't know if I understand that correctly or not, I've just read the the ks will not trip the computer itself.

    Please help!

  • oldasholdash Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 villager and have checked all the fuses (GOOD). We can not run the seats, windows, locks, and power mirror. The power mirrors work in one direction????
    HELP amy ideas.
  • lochmanlochman Posts: 1
    Our Villager (96) idles lower and lower until it stalls out at lights. Do you think it could be the same problem?
  • It is possible if you had the air filter changed at a quickie lube or similar those morons screw up alot! its an easy fix... How many mile are on your villager? More likely it is the Oxygen sensor(s) as the mfg bosch says replace sensors every 25,000 miles (yeah right) the truth is more like 50,000-75,000 mile for changing. it could also be a plugged cataletic converter but only if your van has no accelleration and has trouble going over 30-40 mph. I have read about a distributor replacement helping issuses as well you can get a brand new one on ebay for about $200.00. good luck let me know what you find out. really like my van alot but it keeps costing me so much money i feel that mine is quickly becoming aI :lemon:
  • oldarmyoldarmy Posts: 27
    I have a 99 Quest and would like to install a hidden hitch with electric hook up. Anyone have a suggestion for a brand and/or installer. Seems U-haul used to do this.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,007
    I used a Hidden Hitch (brand name) and installed it myself. It bolted right up to the existing holes. Two were threaded and two used nuts and bolts. The wiring kit I had done and it needed some kind of converter because of the amber turn signal lights. I have a 2001 Villager base.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • Mercury Villager (1996), mileage 120,000.
    I have a problem turning at low speed. When I try to park, I can't. The noise is a loud squeal and I almost have to stand on the wheel to turn it. While I drive on the highway the steering is fine.

    Does this sound like the powersteering pump or rack and pinion?
    The timing belt has not been changed yet and I need a new exhaust. Some of these things I can do myself, but I wonder if I should sell it and trade for something else.
    P.S. other than gerneral maintenance, the van has treated me well for 100,000 miles.
    Any Ideas will be appreciated.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,007
    Sounds like power steering pump. The squealing might just be a slipping belt. The pump works a lot harder to turn the car at low speeds which is why it is worse then. As far as keeping it or trading it, thats your call. These seem to have pretty good powertrains, you just have to hope it doesn't nickel and dime you.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • 1996 merc. villager. 120,000 miles.
    After taking a closer look at the belts and pulleys I have more "bad news". The belts are cracking and the water pump is leaking past the pulley. Timing belt needs to be changed as well. The trans. fluid could be causing the p/s belt to slip and cause the noise or I could be looking at changing the p/s pump and tensioner assy.
    This is a job beyond my ability and skill. How much will this repair run?
    Thanks Paul
  • gsusinmegsusinme Posts: 12
    1993 Nissan Quest 191000 miles
    Paul, I've been encountering a similar problem. I just purchased this vehicle recently and have noticed lately there is a squeeling noise at low speeds (i.e. while parking or stopped). If it is the power steering pump, I've priced one at Advance Auto for $158.88 with free shipping. Does anyone else know of a vendor that would be cheaper than that for a reman. pump? Also, how difficult would it be to replace that part? I'm still waiting on the Haynes repair manual that I ordered for the Quest, so I'm not sure what the job would entail.
  • barmacbarmac Posts: 1
    1997 Mercury Villager - Passenger window won't come down - automatic button on driver's side and passenger's side not working - is this just a fuse to be replaced??
  • lo_klo_k Posts: 2
    I recently replaced mine and I think I paid 124.99 plus $35 core over at Pep Boys...
  • mn_patmn_pat Posts: 67
    we are going a 2000 mile round trip. Of course, I want to get the "rig" in top shape before we leave.

    1. does the vechile require and special type of Xmission fluid or coolant?

    2. what type of gas mileage do you see in similar model years. I get 18-21 mpg.

    Thanks, Pat
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    My guess is that it's the switch or the motor. You may want to try squirting some electrical contact cleaner down in the switch and see if that helps.

    Mn_pat, my '99 Quest gets around 24 to 27 on the road; all time high was 29.9. We usually run with bulky camping gear but not too much weight (two people) but often have a canoe on top that shaves a mile or so mpg off.

    Steve, Host
  • gbealgbeal Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Villager with the 3.3 engine
    Runs O.K. for about 20 Mins Then it misses bad
    Had Codes read reset codes and it did it again
    Codes are Crankshaft Position Sensor and Knock Sensor
    Have the Crankshaft Position Sensor on Order but I am wondering about the Knock Sensor and if there is
    another problem causing this.
  • :confuse: I have a 1994 Mercury Villager and the caliper mounting bolt holes on the steering knuckle are rusted, corroded and are a tad oversize. I have purchased an oversized bolt to remedy the problem, but instructions say it is for one time use. Anyone know of a more permanent fix?? Hopefully it will be something relatively easy to do and not very expensive.
  • lifesavinlifesavin Posts: 2
    Hello! My van is currently in the shop having the "line cylanoid" replaced. Could this be the cause for my van stalling and dying when I slow to a crawl or come to a complete stop? The RPMs drop real low and it just dies. It doesn' t make any noises, etc. The mechanic did a diagnostics on the van and the only indicator on the entire thing was the "line cylanoid". Please help! :(
  • gsusinmegsusinme Posts: 12
    You know what? I believe I figured out the problem. I may have been jumping to conclusions to think the pump was going out. I tightened the PS belt a little and the squeeling stopped. I bought a new belt and replaced it, but I found something that may be a common problem with the PS squeeling symptom. When I looked at the tentioner pully for the PS and tried to turn it after I tightened the retaining nut, it wouldn't turn. So I took it off for a closer look. I took apart the pulley and noticed there is a two piece bearing in the middle of the pulley. BUT, one of the pieces was MISSING, so whenever I tightened the nut, it pinched the pulley and kept it from moving on the bearing. I figure it fell out and wasn't replaced during some routine maintenance.
    I priced a pulley from Advance Auto they would have to special order for about $100. BUT that's $100 more than I wanted to spend so I cut a 7/16" socket in half, filed out the inside a bit and used that for the missing bearing.
    Anyway, that's worth checking out if your powersteering is squeeling and it won't improve from tightening the belt. It may be your bearing. :)
  • lo_klo_k Posts: 2
    while I'm not about to question the integrity of your solution to the bearing problem (although that's damn resourceful and something I wouldn't have thought of) I recently replaced my tensioner pulley as well upon finding out that the inner bearing was blown causing my belt to pop and my car to overheat... I ordered a new one from Mantilia Ford in West Haven, CT for $42 since everyone seemed to only have the idler pulleys in stock and it came the next day and have had much improved results.... :)
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