But I've been gone for three weeks, at least partly because my 626 (2000 LX, four-cylinder, automatic) wasn't getting enough exercise.
So I've just run up 4,444 miles on the clock through the eastern half of the US, and the only problem I had was external - some flipping meteorite or something came smashing its way into my windshield. Needless to say, it wasn't in front of the passenger's seat.
Otherwise, smooth sailing all the way, and 29.2 mpg to boot. (Best tank was an improbable 32.7.) Top speed was kept to a modest 92 mph. And the A/C coped with Texas heat and Louisiana humidity with aplomb. I can think of one or two instances where it might have been nice to have the extra 40 ponies from the V6 at my disposal, but so what else is new?
Don't you worry, I definitely noticed you were MIA. I was wondering who, if not you, was going to answer all of these questions since I have not had a single problem with my '99 and, therefore, have no experience fixing them. If its not a general mechanics question, then I'm at a loss.
Now get to work!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
...can go a long way. I was in the process of buying/leasing a 626 a couple of weeks ago, but decided to hold onto my Protege ES a while longer until I catch up with depreciation (and the new 215-220hp 626 comes out). However, one of the dramas I was going through was selecting a color. I liked the lighter colors, but those body color window frames/pillars drove me insane!! I think they totally break up the lines of the car. Why can't Mazda paint them black like they used to? So, I decided to get creative in PhotoShop and make them black. But, I also decided to add a subtle two-tone paint scheme. The car is a Silver Frost 2001 626 ES-V6 (press picture), which I have added the black window frames/pillars along with a steel blue two-tone. I think if Mazda did something like this (at least just the black window frames/pillars), they would sell a lot more 626's.
Click on the link above and then click on the "Mazda" album. I have also included the original picture to compare to. Let me know what you think!! I really believe Mazda should do it!!
Hey windowphobe6!! WELCOME BACK!! It sure was quiet here without you!!
I think it looks much better black! It really accents the silver color and adds a sporty touch. Most cars look better with the black window trim and the 626 is no exception.
I have a sneaky suspicion that what Mazda wants to do is to go full alphanumeric in Acura style. Of course, have you looked at a 626 grille lately? Sure looks like an Acura to me.
They could always bring back Capella. It's melodious, it has historical value, and in true Mazda fashion (only one N in "Millenia", only one accent mark in "Protegé"), it's spelled funny.
I'm about ready to purchase a 626 LX-V6 I/ luxury package + cassette for 17900 before taxes and tags. I calculated the factory rebate at $1480 so I thought this was a pretty fair deal. However, after reading jstandefer's post (on July 16) I'm not so sure... Can any one verify that his $2500 estimate of the factory rebate on the LX-V6 is for real? If it is, I'm probably paying too much for the car!
I read somewhere that the spelling on Millenia was done that way to keep the length down. As far as I'm concerned, it just pisses off english teachers.
I am looking for 2001 Mazda 626 .... whats the best deal in SC?. ur opinions about this car's advantage&disadv are more than welcome. In which year the 2001, 626's body style introduced?
The best advice I can give is to get the V6. It is a sweet power mill, you will never regret having it.
The 4 banger is fuel efficient, but beware of the auto tranny on the 4 cylinder models. They have supposedly been improved, but I'll believe that when I see long-term results.
1998 was the first model year for this generation; there was a facelift in 2000.
The four-cylinder is very frugal, but slow off the line, especially if it's shackled to the automatic. (At highway speeds, no problem; it's getting there that tries one's patience.) The V6 is happier and not all that much thirstier, although it prefers the high-octane stuff. And shed a tear for the poor shlub who has to sit in the middle of the back seat.
i had bought a 2000 626 (lx-v6, auto) february of this year.thought I was getting a great deal. Now Ive taken it back for AC problems. The AC is extremely weak. It only gets cold when I turn it on to recylced air. Even then its not on par w/ my Honda Oddyssey. If it is not on recycled air it goes btwn slightly cool air and hot air. I live in Houston and understand that it takes a while to get cold due to the heat. Has any else had experience w/ this? The dealer has replaced valves two times already.
why would you want outside air that is hot when using your a/c? Do you leave the windows open in your house when the central air is on? The idea behind air conditioning is not only to cool the air, but to remove moisture so it can stay cool. Allowing the outside humid air in defeats the purpose. Use the recirculated air for maximum cooling. And by the way, your odyssey has nothing on the mpv (dont even tell me about the horsepower, cuz nobody is racing with their kids in the van)- it runs a close second though......
Yeah, I was a bit surprised to see the MPV rated far better than the Odyssey in reliability. The windows that roll down are another big plus, but the Ody is bigger and more powerful.
Yes, the Ody is bigger and more powerful, but it is 800 pounds bigger and the power advantage isn't that much. However, the 2002 MPV (due in October) will have the Tribute's 3.0L DOHC V6 with 200-205hp. Then the only disadvantage the MPV will have is being smaller. But, some people would consider that to be an advantage, and those are the people Mazda is marketing to.
200hp sounds like a good recipe. I really like the interior, especially the middle and rear seats. They one-upped Honda because the middle seats slide apart even while you are sitting in them. Funny, but the Honda commercial actually shows the dad getting out of the car to separate his daughter from a boyfriend.
Greetings all, have read all the posts here. Contemplating a 5spd 4cyl 98 626. I am coming from a 94 Ford Ranger with 112hp pulling way north of 3000 pounds, so I expect the 5/4 would feel fun and quiet to me. A post awhile back here said that the V6 gets leaky headgaskets around 100K. Also that it goes through oxygen sensors. Can any of you tell me of the 4 also has head gasket problems at 100K or so, and if it goes through oxysensors at the same rate? I.E., is the 4cyl more/less/same reliability as the 6? Is the 4 THAT noisy? I would be stretching my budget to buy one of these anyway, and the better gas mileage and expected lower insurance for the 5spd 4 vs. the auto 6 might be the key to me justifiying it to myself. If I got a 5spd 6 I'd just collect tickets or pancake m'self...TIA.
PS to above note. Local used car dealer gets lease returns direct from mazda, so he has about 6 or 7 98 626's now. One of them is a 626 ES 5spd...it has 43k miles on it, but they note that the speedo had to be replaced at 38K, so the speedo reads 8800 miles. So they say that the car has to be sold as "TMU", which I suspect means True Mileage Unknown. They are offering the car for 11,800. Any info on whether the 'tmu' is a really bad situation? I would hope to drive the car to above 100K myself. Otherwise, is that a good price?
A vehicle that's TMU (your definition is correct) immediately gets slashed on trade-in. I would stay away from any vehicle that is TMU. How do you know that vehicle doesn't have 100,000 miles on it? I am surprised. Here in California, I believe it is illegal for a dealer to retail a vehicle in TMU status.
Actually, the head gaskets seldom give way on either of these engines. What gets leaky is the valve-cover gasket, and you can usually spot the weeping either around the edges or in the spark-plug wells. A far cheaper fix.
Both of these engines have a growl, though the V6 is generally quieter at most RPMs. The four does start to get noisy as you drop into the right side of the tach, but I consider it just an excuse to announce "Zoom Zoom" and press ahead.
I drove from Charleston (SC) to Austin (TX) a week ago and never noticed any weakness in the A/C.
Thanks for info, I'll avoid the TMU. IF anyone cares, its in ohio. Anyway, once again, is there any info/feel for durability of the 4 cyl vs. the 6 cyl? Does the 4 cyl have leaky valve-cover gaskets as the 6 does? And does it go through oxygen sensors as the 6 does?
Ok, then does anyone know, are the starters, waterpumps, etc, the same on the 4 as the 6? I guess I always used to hear things like "A four has to run harder than a 6, and so won't last as long". So I wondered if there was any judgement here about 4 vs. 6 for 100000+ miles. I would probably buy a 98 or 99 with 35-50k, and drive it to 135-150 k... I've been told that the 2.3l 4 in my 94 Ford Ranger is in fact a Mazda engine. It has 123K on it and is purring. OF course, I switched to synthetic oil when I bought it.
Honestly, gas is a small portion of your total cost of ownership. We have our V6 running on regular, so the difference is cost is not that much. The difference in power is, IMO. It's basically adequate vs. fast.
Let's say you get 24mpg in a V6, driving 12000 miles per year. With gas at 1.70, that's $850 per year.
A 4 banger may get about 27mpg, less if you have to flog it to keep up with the V6's pace, and even then it would cost $756.
So that's $94 per year, or 26 cents a day for happiness. Even using premium at 20 cents extra, the difference is still less than a can of soda pop each day.
Our "Freeport" took us to and from the sunshine state quite nicley. Some real world numbers for a Doubleought 4banger with a clutch. The first tank was 32.5 mpg and increased to 34,which was the best. We left in the AM with the sunroof up and a window open and no AC yet. Later we chose to alter our interior enviornment with no appreciable lose of mpgs. At .04 per mile we had more spending money which made the missus real happy. This trip just reenforced our decision about the purchase of an outstanding auto. Thumbs UP Bryan
Hello! My factory warranty for 626 (2000) is about to expire and, naturally, I was wondering if it's worth to buy an extended one (like Warrantybynet or Warrantygold). Anybody has an experience with those or similar services? Annually I do approx. 22k highway miles and I have auto 4 cyl in my car (that I love a lot).
A lot depends on whether you think the transmission is a time bomb. (If I had just arrived here and read the previous 600 messages or so, I probably would.)
When I get to the end of the warranty on my 2000, assuming I haven't been seduced into a 2003 by then, I'll probably just get the tranny serviced and an auxiliary cooler installed (total cost - around $250) and take my chances with everything else. The $1000-1500 you'd pay for the extended warranty can cover an awful lot of service.
Extended warranties can be agreat thing if the dealer or independant you take your car to knows how to use it. Most warranty companies will say "no" right away just to just about any claim just to weed out the service writers who are weak and not willing to fight for the customer.I've seen the same company say yes and no to exact cases. Also having your car looked at by a technician instead of a mechanic can make you and the warranty co. aware of problems that you did not come in for. I have replaced many more waterpumps on v6's than on 4's %wise. BOth the 4 and 6 are great engines provided they are not abused and neglected.
I have a some stuff about Ext. Warranties and you guys just happened to be talking about it too!
I recently bought a 4-cylnd 2001 626 (bought it in late May). I went ahead and purchased the extended warranty because I wanted that security/piece of mind and because of worries over the tranmission (bad experiences with Ford almost stopped me from buying the car all together). I got my extended warranty contract in the mail yesterday and it says I have to pay a $100 deductible per visit for repairs. This maybe a standard practice and it may not, I don't know, but the dealership never explained that to me, never mentioned anything about a deductable. We discussed different mileage lengths and different year length, never anything about a deductable. Is there anything I can do about this beyond complaining to Mazda?
Also, the extended warranty contract doesn't make clear that my standard warranty is still in place, but I assume it is. I think a lot of this is ignorance over the whole subject...
Your factory warranty is still there. The extended warranty kicks in after the factory warranty expires. You may be able to return the warranty citing that it was misrepresented. Also, it's up to the dealer as Mazda has no say in what they sell or how they sell it.
The one time I had an extended warranty, it came with a $50 deductible; $100 doesn't seem too out of line, but they should have explained that up front regardless.
I am in the market for a used car. This one is a 1998 Mazda 626 LE, with 54000 Miles. Dealer in Michigan is asking for $6,995. This is 4 cylinder with a stick shift. All standard options are present in the car.
Need advice on 2 things. - Is this a good price. - Any particular problem that I need to be aware of, especially with the stick / clutch.
That price sounds like a wonderful price, almost too low. Edmunds True Market Value (TMV) gives an average dealer retail selling price of $9,300. Is it an LX or DX? The LX has power windows/locks/mirrors and cruise control, where the DX does not. Also, give the body a good look to ensure that it hasn't had any major body work. If everything looks good, definitely go for it!! The only problem with the 626 is the 4-cyl with automatic. The stick shift, as maltb said, is a solid car and should give you years of trouble-free use. That price is absolutely outstanding!!
We bought a Double-ought 4 with a clutch and couldn't be happier. Being from a spread the salt state, our car visits the car wash 3X a month in the winter. You may want to take a closer look underside. Mechanically these babes are tough and with proper care and service 6 digits worth of mileage should'nt be unreasonable. Good Luck
Your factory warranty is still there. The extended warranty kicks in after the factory warranty expires. You may be able to return the warranty citing that it was misrepresented. Also, it's up to the dealer as Mazda has no say in what they sell or how they sell it.
I was tald at the dealership that the extended warranty kicks in immediately after you sign the contract, not at the end of your current warranty. For example:
Now I am at 33k miles and still have 3 more years left from my original manuf. warranty.
If I buy additional 5 years, I'll have 5 years left not 3+5=8 years !
By the way, the quotes I've got are the following (with my 33k miles and Gold Mazda Protection Plan):
6 years or 75k = $2900.00 5 years or 60k = $2000.00 4 years or 48k = $1500.00
In my previous message the "Your factory warranty is still there. The extended warranty kicks in after the factory warranty expires. You may be able to return the warranty citing that it was misrepresented. Also, it's up to the dealer as Mazda has no say in what they sell or how they sell it. " was a quote I was trying to respond to...
Sorry, I am back again this time with a different issue. I found another 626 LX with stick, 45,000 miles. When I drove it, the Check Engine sign was on. Dealer tells me, he filled up gas & did not tighten the fuel cap. There is a sensor out there which triggers the sign. Seems like all Mazda's have this problem.
A loose fuel cap will trigger the Check Engine light on any vehicle outfitted with the OBD II or higher system (basically all vehicles sold in the US during the mid-to-late 90's). The Check Engine light will come on when the OBD computer has detected a malfunction or defect in the emissions system of the car. A loose fuel cap can allow fuel vapors to escape into the atmosphere, so it will trigger the system. Once the fuel cap has been properly tightened, the light should go off in a few days.
I don't know how it is where you live, but in California, it is illegal for anyone to sell a vehicle with problems in its emissions system. This even applies to private sellers, and the seller is solely responsible for all finances involved in repairing the vehicle or the vehicle must be bought back and a full refund made.
When I bought my car, the dealer mentioned this problem, telling me that I needed to hear the gas cap click 2-3 times to be sure I had a good seal. He said it took Mazda years to figure out why the check engine light was coming on until they realized some people were leaving the car on while they filled it up (primarily in the north, during the winter). I knew somebody though who drove away from the gas station with a 2000 626 with gas cap hanging off and their check engine light never came on...
Check out this drawings of the upcoming Mazda 626. Looks Great I think, will have a new 2.3 I4 and new 3.0V6. Hopefully this car is luxury enough to replca my 2000 Millenia S when the times comes, since I don't think Mazda will build Millenia's successor.
Comments
So I've just run up 4,444 miles on the clock through the eastern half of the US, and the only problem I had was external - some flipping meteorite or something came smashing its way into my windshield. Needless to say, it wasn't in front of the passenger's seat.
Otherwise, smooth sailing all the way, and 29.2 mpg to boot. (Best tank was an improbable 32.7.) Top speed was kept to a modest 92 mph. And the A/C coped with Texas heat and Louisiana humidity with aplomb. I can think of one or two instances where it might have been nice to have the extra 40 ponies from the V6 at my disposal, but so what else is new?
Now get to work!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
http://photos.yahoo.com/jstand6
Click on the link above and then click on the "Mazda" album. I have also included the original picture to compare to. Let me know what you think!! I really believe Mazda should do it!!
Hey windowphobe6!! WELCOME BACK!! It sure was quiet here without you!!
We should start thinking up names for 626 replacement so Mazda can save some $ for a REAL market launch.
215-220 hp?? Did i miss this discussion? I am intrigued. Tell me more. And tell me that there is a manual tranny involved!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
New names? Well, there is the MP3, the MX-5, the and the RX-08 (though I'd just call it RX-8). So it could be called the RX-6 if it's sporty enough.
-juice
They could always bring back Capella. It's melodious, it has historical value, and in true Mazda fashion (only one N in "Millenia", only one accent mark in "Protegé"), it's spelled funny.
I am looking for 2001 Mazda 626 .... whats the best deal in SC?. ur opinions about this car's advantage&disadv are more than welcome. In which year the 2001, 626's body style introduced?
Thanks,
The best advice I can give is to get the V6. It is a sweet power mill, you will never regret having it.
The 4 banger is fuel efficient, but beware of the auto tranny on the 4 cylinder models. They have supposedly been improved, but I'll believe that when I see long-term results.
-juice
The four-cylinder is very frugal, but slow off the line, especially if it's shackled to the automatic. (At highway speeds, no problem; it's getting there that tries one's patience.) The V6 is happier and not all that much thirstier, although it prefers the high-octane stuff. And shed a tear for the poor shlub who has to sit in the middle of the back seat.
-juice
-juice
TIA again.
Both of these engines have a growl, though the V6 is generally quieter at most RPMs. The four does start to get noisy as you drop into the right side of the tach, but I consider it just an excuse to announce "Zoom Zoom" and press ahead.
I drove from Charleston (SC) to Austin (TX) a week ago and never noticed any weakness in the A/C.
-juice
Thanks
-juice
Let's say you get 24mpg in a V6, driving 12000 miles per year. With gas at 1.70, that's $850 per year.
A 4 banger may get about 27mpg, less if you have to flog it to keep up with the V6's pace, and even then it would cost $756.
So that's $94 per year, or 26 cents a day for happiness. Even using premium at 20 cents extra, the difference is still less than a can of soda pop each day.
This time Pepsi loses the challenge. Get the V6.
-juice
state quite nicley. Some real world numbers for
a Doubleought 4banger with a clutch. The first
tank was 32.5 mpg and increased to 34,which was
the best. We left in the AM with the sunroof up
and a window open and no AC yet. Later we chose
to alter our interior enviornment with no
appreciable lose of mpgs. At .04 per mile we had
more spending money which made the missus real
happy. This trip just reenforced our decision about the purchase of an outstanding auto.
Thumbs UP Bryan
My factory warranty for 626 (2000) is about to expire and, naturally, I was wondering if it's worth to buy an extended one (like Warrantybynet or Warrantygold).
Anybody has an experience with those or similar services?
Annually I do approx. 22k highway miles and I have auto 4 cyl in my car (that I love a lot).
I'll appreciate any feedback !
Thank you!
When I get to the end of the warranty on my 2000, assuming I haven't been seduced into a 2003 by then, I'll probably just get the tranny serviced and an auxiliary cooler installed (total cost - around $250) and take my chances with everything else. The $1000-1500 you'd pay for the extended warranty can cover an awful lot of service.
I have replaced many more waterpumps on v6's than on 4's %wise. BOth the 4 and 6 are great engines provided they are not abused and neglected.
I recently bought a 4-cylnd 2001 626 (bought it in late May). I went ahead and purchased the extended warranty because I wanted that security/piece of mind and because of worries over the tranmission (bad experiences with Ford almost stopped me from buying the car all together). I got my extended warranty contract in the mail yesterday and it says I have to pay a $100 deductible per visit for repairs. This maybe a standard practice and it may not, I don't know, but the dealership never explained that to me, never mentioned anything about a deductable. We discussed different mileage lengths and different year length, never anything about a deductable. Is there anything I can do about this beyond complaining to Mazda?
Also, the extended warranty contract doesn't make clear that my standard warranty is still in place, but I assume it is. I think a lot of this is ignorance over the whole subject...
thoughts?
-Andy
I am in the market for a used car. This one is a 1998 Mazda 626 LE, with 54000 Miles. Dealer in Michigan is asking for $6,995. This is 4 cylinder with a stick shift. All standard options are present in the car.
Need advice on 2 things.
- Is this a good price.
- Any particular problem that I need to be aware of, especially with the stick / clutch.
Thanks in advance,
Bsaha
-juice
couldn't be happier. Being from a spread the salt
state, our car visits the car wash 3X a month in
the winter. You may want to take a closer look
underside. Mechanically these babes are tough and
with proper care and service 6 digits worth of mileage should'nt be unreasonable. Good Luck
I was tald at the dealership that the extended warranty kicks in immediately after you sign the contract, not at the end of your current warranty.
For example:
Now I am at 33k miles and still have 3 more years left from my original manuf. warranty.
If I buy additional 5 years, I'll have 5 years left not 3+5=8 years !
By the way, the quotes I've got are the following (with my 33k miles and Gold Mazda Protection Plan):
6 years or 75k = $2900.00
5 years or 60k = $2000.00
4 years or 48k = $1500.00
... I am still thinking..
"Your factory warranty is still there. The extended warranty kicks in after the factory warranty expires. You may be able to return the warranty citing that it was misrepresented. Also, it's up to the dealer as Mazda has no say in what they sell or how they sell it. "
was a quote I was trying to respond to...
Bsaha
Sorry, I am back again this time with a different issue. I found another 626 LX with stick, 45,000 miles. When I drove it, the Check Engine sign was on. Dealer tells me, he filled up gas & did not tighten the fuel cap. There is a sensor out there which triggers the sign. Seems like all Mazda's have this problem.
Please advice if any one's faced this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Bsaha
I don't know how it is where you live, but in California, it is illegal for anyone to sell a vehicle with problems in its emissions system. This even applies to private sellers, and the seller is solely responsible for all finances involved in repairing the vehicle or the vehicle must be bought back and a full refund made.
The dealer should have the equipment to reset it rather easily. If he can't, then it's probably a more serious problems than he alleges.
-juice
http://www.mag-x.com/scoop/nms0108/01.jpg
http://www.mag-x.com/scoop/nms0108/index.html
3.0l V6. Uh-oh. That wouldn't be a Ford Duratec engine, like the Tribute, would it? Watch, they'll mate it to the CD4E just to piss us off.
At least Mazda will take charge developing the platform.
-juice