Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge/Plymouth Neon

12627282931

Comments

  • samehyassinsamehyassin Member Posts: 6
    hi, good morning
    SorryI realize i am not fluent in english. So, please accept my apology for this

    when the car is cold, it does not start up. it started happening four days ago. at the early begining, it took 4 minutes to started it up. in the next day, it took 15 minutes. yesterday, it took one hour. After starting the car, it does not like to be in a good condition. I mean it like to off agin till it becomes very worm. After worming the car, it run very fine. one time, I was runing with the car, suddenly it stoped. The computer scane indicated that a sensor that is not good. I am not sure about the name of the sensor. I started thinging of the starter relay. I changed but with no result. then, I though it might be the sensor. I , cleaned it. also, with no result. Also, i though of fuel pump. But I think it works fine because I can hear the voice of fuel pump when I turn it on.
  • samehyassinsamehyassin Member Posts: 6
    hi, good morning
    SorryI realize i am not fluent in english. So, please accept my apology for this

    when the car is cold, it does not start up. it started happening four days ago. at the early begining, it took 4 minutes to started it up. in the next day, it took 15 minutes. yesterday, it took one hour. After starting the car, it does not like to be in a good condition. I mean it like to off agin till it becomes very worm. After worming the car, it run very fine. one time, I was runing with the car, suddenly it stoped. The computer scane indicated that a sensor that is not good. I am not sure about the name of the sensor. I started thinging of the starter relay. I changed but with no result. then, I though it might be the sensor. I , cleaned it. also, with no result. Also, i though of fuel pump. But I think it works fine because I can hear the voice of fuel pump when I turn it on.
    thanks,
    sameh
  • thor17thor17 Member Posts: 7
    This is a very common problem for neon's of all years. the most common solution is to add Lucas oil stabalizer. that should do the trick
  • samehyassinsamehyassin Member Posts: 6
    first, thanks very much for you reply. For my bad luck I did not get your message before i go to Autozone. They check the car. they fouund it is code error titled p0403. this is a EGR system fault. Frankly, I did stop thinking of any thing else. I boouth the EGR vacum selenoid. it consists of two parts. right now, I have just came back from outside after a mecahnic changed the EGR. Please do not astonish. I know it is sunday. but it happened. the mecahnic changed the EGR vacum seleniod. After changing, the car does like to turn on. after a two or three trials. i started again. the light "check engine soon" became off.
    Sure, I need to keep the car till tommorow morning. then we can see what is up again. I hope this the end. Again, thanks very much for your support and help.

    Sameh
  • samehyassinsamehyassin Member Posts: 6
    Good morning,
    to-day morinig it started but after 7-8 trials of cranking. i left it till it became worm. then to give a rid for my children. for a certain reason, it sudenly stoped when it was runing while i made a left turn and my foot was on the brake pedal. . I forget to inform you that i also changed the oil and oil filter besides the EGR vacum senolid. what sort of problem do you think i have now. till now I did not use the Lucas oil stabilizer yet. Thanks for your help.
    sameh
  • thor17thor17 Member Posts: 7
    Im not very shure why your brakes would fix the problem. there is a website that i will add a link to. its for neon owners. you can ask them and you will get results ! good luck. http://forums.neons.org

    oh and your car would be under the 1st generation index.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    This could be an idea, and I am not a tec for sure. I have had 3 Neons a 1996 which we still have with 196,500 miles on it, a 2001 Neon and a 2004 Neon. So what ever I suggest is only a guess. It sounds to me like a fuel pump.
    Might I suggest to take it to a dealer and have then check it out. In the long and short of it will save you time and money.
    Have you checked to see if there are any codes showing? That would say a lot if it is.

    farout
  • samehyassinsamehyassin Member Posts: 6
    Hi farout,

    Thanks for your advise. I got your advise. I towed the car to a mecahnic. Probably today he will tell me what is wrong with the car. I will let you know as soon as I get a response.

    After changing the EGR vacum, the light "check engin" became off. Also, I showed me no error codes in two different places "autozone and a mechanic".

    Again, Thanks very much for your support.

    Sameh
  • samehyassinsamehyassin Member Posts: 6
    hello everybody,

    The problem might be sorted out now. I was the speed sendor. This senor was faulty and confilict with cam and crank sensors. that is why it was not starting. the error code did not show up till the car became cold. the code is p0320. I wish this would be a good for anybody have the same problem.
    Thanks for your supprot.

    Sameh
  • pinkysgirlpinkysgirl Member Posts: 1
    Hey there! I've got an adorable 99 and he ran perfectly teriffic, that is until some punks stole him from out of my driveway and took him for a little stroll. :mad: They obviously ran over something really huge, the donut was on the front of the driver's side (they left my rim, wheel, hubcap, jack, and lug wrench by the side of the road somewhere, so considerate, right?) and the back wheel had a bubble on it like it got knicked a little. The front wheel was also sticking out at an outrageous angle and when you drove straight, the steering wheel was up and down instead of straight across. Now I was told that the control arm was bent, since everything else looked okay. I replaced the arm and ball joing and got him some new tires and since the new arm went on (which I had one heck of a time with two of the bolts! Torching had to be brought in to it) his wheel leans out a lot less. BUT IT STILL LEANS OUT!!! I don't know what else it could be, it leans towards the bottom and that causes the steering wheel to stick when you turn too hard to the right and makes a grinding sound. Does anyone know what can be wrong with it? I want my poor Pinky to be back to 100%! He's been through a lot and he's quite sad :cry:
  • dnoyesdnoyes Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys (and gals). I have a 2003 Dodge Neon (Automatic) SXT. Worked GREAT until about 55K miles. Then crap started falling apart.

    Fast forward 4K miles. At 59K my engine light went on. I went in, and they told me I needed transmission work. Still covered under Powertrain, so that was cool.

    After having it for a few hours, they told me that the engine air cleaner was hosed. It was cracked and couldn't even be tightened down. Fine, replace it. New air cleaner, transmission seals fixed.

    I've had my car back for a week now. It feels like it's shifting harder, and not at points that it used to. I'm having a _really_ hard time finding info on when my (automatic trans) car should be shifting.

    It doesn't seem to be shifting based on RPM. Shifts into 2nd at about 12 mph, shifts into 3rd about 35, shifts into 4th about 42. Can that be right? It feels _awfully_ strange.

    Even weirder on the highway. Shifts into 3rd about 40 mph and 4th about 43 mph. Huh? Also, between 60-70 mph, I feel little jumps/kicks. Kinda feels like when there's a moderate wind that moves your car a bit. Just feels.... not right.

    My fuel economy has even gone done. Before engine light came on, and with my busted air cleaner, I was getting about 250-260 miles a tank. Now I'm getting about 230-240.

    Any ideas? Sorry this was kinda long. I'm not a car guy (yet), so I did my best to explain the situation. If anybody can help, or needs more information, that'd be fantastic! :) Oh yeah, a friend pointed me at Chilton manuals, but there's so many. I'm a little lost.

    Dave
  • meximelt2007meximelt2007 Member Posts: 1
    having a problem with my speedometer. On good days it works but every once in awhile my speedometer will go out. Along with it my odometer goes out but yet my fuel gadge and my thermostat keep working? any ideas????? please help...i hate this car it's one thing after another.
  • akjefferyakjeffery Member Posts: 9
    It will be the speed senser located back bt the trany. My car went further though and had to relpace the wire harness.

    Good luck and I know what you mean one darn thing after another...
  • seabuckleseabuckle Member Posts: 4
    I have a 95 Neon with 40k - just replaced the circuit board and now works great. Problem is "cold solder" process used to build the boards for 95-99 Neons cracks and makes for a bad connection so stuff won't work. Found this guy on ebay Seller: in_the_country( 166) who rebuilds the boards. 49 bucks includes one yr warranty, a prepaid return label and 10 bucks credit to return the core. Takes less than 30 minutes to pull the cluster, 4 screws, and pull the board 8 or 9 screws and stick it back in. Hardest part is getting to the two bottom screws in the dash, use a mag screw driver. Be sure to note if you have a tach and 7 or 8k or none in the remarks section.
  • cporetired1cporetired1 Member Posts: 1
    In the morning when I start the car and get on the interstate, going 55-60 MPH the car will vibrated greatly and the steering wheel will vibrate also. The car will lose power, but not shut off, and while stopping the brakes will be hard to push down. After sitting for about 1 hour it will start up fine and go down the interstate fine? any ideas???
  • cambradcambrad Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 5-speed manual Plymouth Neon with about 125k miles. When I depress the clutch to make a turn or stop, the car stalls. Normal shifting doesn't cause a stall (maybe because the clutch isn't depressed long enough for the RPMs to drop below 1000, where it typically idles). The check engine light has not illuminated, so I can't check any codes. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • kellyschultz3kellyschultz3 Member Posts: 1
    Im hoping someone has either had this problem or might know about it. My car has been revving very high when I start it. It sounds like I have my foot on the gas. When I put it into gear it jumps forward probably to about 15 mph without touching the gas pedal. It does this on and off. I had gotten a check engine error message about the throttle, but then it stopped before I brought it in to be checked. If anyone knows anything please let me know. Thanks :sick:
  • akjefferyakjeffery Member Posts: 9
    Kelly,

    I am haivng the same problem with my neon. I have been told that it is the throttle cable sticking. Hence I got carburater cleaner and sprayed the whole cable of what I coud get . It did Not help. With the gas prices this bites big time. I hope some has the correct answer . It might be that we have to replace the cable it self.
    Angie :sick:
  • liz_77liz_77 Member Posts: 5
    I thought I was the only one!!! I posted a while back and got a few responses, but no one was sure. (someone mentioned a crack in the intake manifold, but i don't think that is the case here. doesn't look cracked.) My 2000 plymouth neon all of the sudden starting revving up like that in park, then would just cruise around at probably about 15 mph or so without me pressing the gas at all. Same thing with putting it into gear - it would jump forward...it was fun loading it onto a tow trailer. (thank goodness my dad was there!!) Anyway, not long after that problem, we came home one day and the car was completely DEAD. Nothing. Wouldn't even try to turn over. Tried unhooking the battery and stuff, but it's still dead. The neon is pretty much just an extra car, so we haven't had the time, money or expertise to mess with it much since then. Hopefully someone can give us some answers!!!!
  • amg4amg4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon and it has been doing the same thing! It is off and on not all the time. I have manual transmission and it will rev up in neutral, then when you shift between gears it continuously revs. It was doing it bad today so I brought it in to get checked. It took them 20minutes after I got there to bring it back and it had stopped doing it. They couldn't figure out what was wrong. Both the clutch and transmission are good. If anyone has answers please let us know.
  • liz_77liz_77 Member Posts: 5
    Wow! Obviously, it must be at least a semi-common problem with Neons. I checked the recall lists but didn't see anything for sure about this specific issue. There was one about a PVC something or other, but I took mine in waaaay back when that recall was issued. HOWEVER, I do NOT trust that dealer that I had nearby because they supposedly fixed my a/c once, but about a year later we found out that it was pretty much taped together with electrical tape or something ridiculous like that - all rigged up. So, I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't replace anything. UGH - I hope someone can give us some answers soon. Thanks for your reply!!
  • liz_77liz_77 Member Posts: 5
    Wow! Obviously, it must be at least a semi-common problem with Neons. I checked the recall lists but didn't see anything for sure about this specific issue. There was one about a PVC something or other, but I took mine in waaaay back when that recall was issued. HOWEVER, I do NOT trust that dealer that I had nearby because they supposedly fixed my a/c once, but about a year later we found out that it was pretty much taped together with electrical tape or something ridiculous like that - all rigged up. So, I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't replace anything. UGH - I hope someone can give us some answers soon. Thanks for your reply!!
  • yolbiofyolbiof Member Posts: 1
    Seabuckle
    I think I might have the same problem as you. I have a 1998 Dodge Neon and the instrument panel has gone haywire. Door ajar light flickers, speedometer does not work, interior light is always on, etc... Problem is intermittent.

    I have hear that this problem is due to cold solders on a circuit board behind the dash. Does this sound like what you had? If so can you provide me with the contact information Seller: in_the_country( 166). So I can try the same thing you tried?

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • harleydanharleydan Member Posts: 1
    a fuse keeps blowing labeled back up lights and ebl switch which causes the air conditioner to only function when the brakes are pressed. i cant find anything that explains what the ebl system is. there is a 40 amp fuse under the hood for the ebl circuit. it must be part of the brakes but they work fine. any help?
  • econobikereconobiker Member Posts: 6
    Figured I would add an update:

    This '95 Neon now has 242,000 miles.

    A/C compressor died late 2001 after we had purchased an '01 Durango AWD SLT and I was driving the Neon for work commute (86 miles round trip daily). Got the non-A/C sized belt to run just the power steering pump didn't care about spending money on the compressor as the rest of the system had leaks.

    At about 165,000 I replaced clutch,clutch cable, manual transmission fluid, cv axles, timing belt, engine seal on timing belt side, exhaust system, catalytic convertor - sometime in 2004- 2005. Finally got instrument cluster with tach around then too!

    Soon to be ex-wife signed title on the Neon over to me in 2005- she got the house and I got the Neon (plus my Dakota, tools, a couple of motorcycles, etc).

    Until recently I was getting 35-39 mpg mixed highway/local with 89 octane until engine developed miss- was still was getting 27-29 mpg though. Took it to independent garage which flushed #1 cylinder and said maybe also air pump- engine maybe too worn they said also. It does run better now though. Have been checking Neons.org for solution also.

    Regards,

    econobiker
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    We had the instrument cluster replaced at 1005,000 miles in 2002. We not have 197,110 miles on our 96 Neon Highline. The problem we have now is the radio has quit and the lighter does not work. Fuses are all good. Any ideas?
    I just got the speed control working and the over flow tank repkaced to correct over heating. Did the work myself and it was a real job.

    farout
  • pbj0715pbj0715 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Plymouth Neon that I just purchased. I was not aware that the lights were not working. The interior light comes on once in a while but the headlights and the dash light are not working. Has anyone else had this problem and what do you think it might be?
  • thor17thor17 Member Posts: 7
    this is probably one of three things. a blown fuse, the headlight bulb is just loose.( this doese happen from time to time), or the bulbs are just out.
  • j52684_03j52684_03 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 96 ply neon that i just had the water pump head gasket heads and timing belt replaced on and now my car is stalling out when i come to a stop or reverse i went to auto zone to check the engine codes and it was a code for the vehicle speed sensor can that be causing my car to stall out if not any ideas on what the problem may be
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    j52684_03: One huge problem right off the bat! Don't go to AutoZone! These type of places do not have top notch well trained tech's. If these guy were really good they would work for a dealership. None of these type of placed have factory computers.
    Our 1996 Dogdge Neon Highline has 197,400 miles on it and runs good even today. I have most every record of everything that has been done. We bought it new Oct. 11. 1995, so I have had most all the common and uncommon things happen you could want or not want to happen to it.
    The problem might possibly be a cam sensor as well. But the dealer could tell you real quick and save you some mony to boot.
    Under the extended warranty be bought when we bought the Neon that went to 5 years 100,00 miles. We paid about $1,200. for the warrnty and believe it or not the warranty from Chrysler spent as much fixing problems in the first 100,000 miles as we paid for the car! So I am a firm believer of extended warranties. The last 97,000+ miles have been reasonable in repairs and what you would expect for a older Neon. Hope this helps a little.

    farout
  • thor17thor17 Member Posts: 7
    Its very possible that this could be the problem.The suspect item is called the Distance/Speed Sensor. It's an electrical item, mechanically driven by the speedometer drive mechanism in the tailshaft of the transaxle.The DSS apparently contains 15 or 16 reed switches wired in parallel. These reed switches are arranged radially around a shaft with an eccentric magnet. As the shaft turns, the DSS produces 15 (or 16) open-close cycles per rotation.

    At least one of the many reed switches sticks closed intermittently, shorting the entire sensor closed; hence, the engine control computer thinks the vehicle is at rest.

    this is something that a dealer or professional mechanic will have to fix. the tools are very hard to come buy and only a dealer or professional mechanic will have them.

    good luck
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    You sound like a happy camper, who otherwise wouldn't be without the estended warranty.

    What car/model would you replace your '96 Neon with when it finally dies, or do you think it may go to 300,000, in which case it's too early to even think about a replacement?
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    hpmctorque: Odd you would ask what I would replace it with. At 197,600 miles our daughter was driving the Neon and the timing belt broke. (I had it replaced at 99,000) miles and it just broke because a tensioner pully gave out. I had the timing belt and the pully replaced. However when they restarted the engine it had a HUGE missing and it was caused by bent valves. So now I am considering putting a used low mileage engine in. I found an engine with 42,000 miles on it for $819. including shipping. They want $550. to put the engine in. Due to a financial shortage I don't plan on fixing the Neon until lare Jan. or Feb. of 2009. I knew it was a 50/50 chance that the valves might be bent, so I lost the gamble, no ones fault but my own, so $368. was down the drain. Win some and lose some.
    We have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD and we really are pleased with it so we really are not in a rush to get the Neon fixed.

    farout
  • sahmedsahmed Member Posts: 1
    I wish I could add pictures, but it doesn't seem possible within this service. I have an aluminum cylinderical part which is connected to the fuel line coming from the fuel pump, and it has a rubber fuel line running to the fuel rail. This part is very close to the firewall. Here's the problem, it's leaking fuel from the bottom of this part onto the rack and pinion. Any idea what this part is? Thanks.
  • 99rt99rt Member Posts: 1
    I bought one of his repaired circuit boards and have not had a problem since
  • wildvettewildvette Member Posts: 1
    Hi, i was a owner of a New 2005 Neon. I got its oil changes done on time. It was well Maintained and it was good until 65000k then i had to get a new dash cause it was wrinkling on the right hand side of the windshield. They said they never had that happen before. So i got a new dash i was happy then not even 3 weeks later i took my car in cause i was told it was noises in the cold mornings. So they tell me i need a New engine. Again I hear the same thing this hasn't happen before they can't believe that it needs a new engine. ( their meaning new is a rebuilt) :sick: :mad: :lemon: I Now Own a 08 Pontiac Grand Prix and love it
  • falvaradofalvarado Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Dodge Neon 2.0L 16 valves DOHC, my problem is to find a similar because this one blows, what about if i install a 2.4 L 16 DOHC from a Ply Brezee, looks similar like 2.0L is any difference on engine supports or other parts like sensors, etc. Thanks for your information.
  • BIGDADDYHORTONBIGDADDYHORTON Member Posts: 35
    MY 97 HAS ONLY 122.000 ON IT RIGHT NOW, BUT I WAS GETTING 26 TO 28 MPG, I REPLACED THE PULLEYS WITH SOME AFTER MARKET ONE THAT ARE LIGHTER AND SMALLER, I NOW GET RIGHT AT 32. I ALSO HAVE OTHER MODS AND HAVE 243 HORSE WITHOUT A BLOWER ON A SOHC 2.0, AND PLAY AROUND ALOT, MY AFTER MARKET THROTTLE BODY HAS ALSO HELPED AND I DID NOT PUT ALOT OF MONEY INTO THESE ITEMS, CHECK OUT MODERN PERFORMANCE.COM. THEY HAVE A LOT OF THINGS FOR NEONS AT REASONABLE PRICES. I USE THEM AND WILL CONTINUE UNTIL I HAVE AT LEAST 300 PLUS HORSE, CHECK OUT THE PULLEYS, AND READ THE COMMENTS OTHERS HAVE POSTED ABOUT THEM, YOU MAY FIND YOURSELF DOING THE SAME, HOPE THIS HELPS. :)
  • BIGDADDYHORTONBIGDADDYHORTON Member Posts: 35
    I'M NO PRO BUT HAVE BUILT ALOT OF DIFFERENT HOT RODS, HAS ANY ONE SUGGESTED TAKING OFF THE TIMING BELT COVER AND CHECKING TO SEE IF THE BELT IS BROKE OR GEARS?
  • slimsimmons55slimsimmons55 Member Posts: 2
    Was thinking about doing the same thing to mine, have u found out any info on this kind of swap? thank you, slimsimmons55
  • slimsimmons55slimsimmons55 Member Posts: 2
    Needed info on trannys, will a first gen neon tranny work with a second gen neon? Will the 2.0 tranny bolt up to a 2.4 engine? if anyone can assit me in these answers that would b great!! Thanks
  • pmk6pmk6 Member Posts: 2
    We are having trouble with our plymouth breeze(identical to Stratus) When we start the car it automatically blows fuses. They say the alternator, starter and solenoid check out okay.

    Does anyone know why the fuses may be blowing? My husband has already checked the heating coil, and the fuse did not blow when the wire to the solenoid was disconnected.

    Would appreciate any replies or suggestions!
    Thanks
  • Adam_CAdam_C Member Posts: 7
    how much did you pay for your rear sway bar?
  • Adam_CAdam_C Member Posts: 7
    alot of the time when i start my car the headlights and heater fan inside the car dims until i hit the gas and spin the alternator. somtimes even when im driving ill come to a stop and let it idle and it does the same thing...however i have never needed to jump it unless i left the lights on...so it seems to be charging the battery. and when i go through some deep snow it slows down regardless if im hitting the gas. any thoughts??

    also it doesnt like to start very well in the cold unless ive been dumping stuff in the gas to make it start cold. but once ive run out it will sit in the cold for 3 hrs and not want to stay running. any mods i could do to fix it without constantly having to dump [non-permissible content removed] in my tank?

    instument cluster/ speedometer stops working all the time..it will either just not work or it will die when im driving..it will eventually come back but not without it jumping up and falling down a couple times. had sensor fixed and a wire reattached when it didnt work at all right after i bought the car now it does this. also all the guages freeze every once in a while. solution anyone?
  • Adam_CAdam_C Member Posts: 7
    try pouring hot water on the fuel rail befor you start it then let it warm up for a couple min befor you drive it....see what it does
  • akjefferyakjeffery Member Posts: 9
    Last year when I had to take my car in for an emmisions test. I had to take it to some one on their list for professional repair . During the process the replaced my sway bar and fixed my emissions problem the over all bill was 569 dollars. the main thing was the sway bar it costed about 299 dollars It took it to the local dodge dealership they did not charge for the full price of the mechanic to work on it. So I got a deal. :D
  • idntdrv55idntdrv55 Member Posts: 1
    I was a large equipment mechanic for 16 year before taking a job as an IT Support Analyst, so I know my way around the mechanical end of most vehicles. I have 2003 Dodge Neon that my daughter crashed 2 months after getting her drivers license. It was a fron end collision that pushed the radiator into the intake manifold and the fenders fair enough back to prevent the doors from opening correctly. My question is would it be better to replace the entire front clip or is it possible to straighten it out properly. We did not have full coverage insurance on this vehicle so insurance isn't helping out at all. We have since purchased her a new car, but would like to get this one going again so my wife can drive it to work as it is much more fuel efficient than her Expedition. If you need more details please let me know. I just have not had that much experience at body work, but have this a my winter project.TIA
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    change the clip. straightening is labor intensive,requires skill and takes time and still needs paint. you have tools and skills to change parts and they are not compromised. fit and finish is the goal. ;)
  • walt22walt22 Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Plymouth Neon was idling (for about ten minutes), then just shut down. Now it cranks, but will not fire, and no lights are working. No headlights, interior light, parking lights, or turn signals. Also, the radio and heater fan do not work. I've checked all fuses.
  • pmk6pmk6 Member Posts: 2
    Our 1999 Ply Breeze will not start. The alt., cylenoid, and battery all checked ok. When we try to start the car it keeps blowing fuses. Any suggestions?
Sign In or Register to comment.