Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Don
I'll see if I can find out.
I was thinking that the lumber switch of electric
seat(pushing or retracting waist part of seat)
was making clicking sound when push or retract.
But it's not making sound when retract. The salesman says it's normal because the air goes down when retract. Is this normal or should be fixed ?
Don
If I put a little pressure on the brakes at 50 mph or higher, the steering wheel shakes back and forth. Brand new car: <400mi. The car goes to the shop in 3 days. Has anyone had similiar problems and how did they fix it?
All I can say is: ALL KINDS OF PROBLEMS
Hood pops open (day 1)
Steering is TOO noisy (day 1)
Transmission is stupid (day 1. there is no fix, it's the way it is)
Poor, poor brakes (day 1. again, that's the way it is)
Below 15MPG in the city (day 1)
Brake light stays on and drains battery at night. The car won't start next day (second and third week)
Dashboard pops up (second month)
Transmission cable broken. (6,000 miles and 800 miles away from home)
Electric start failed five times so far (10,000 miles)
Steering is noisy again
Leather interior is SO cheap, has several cuts already.
However, there are some pros, like:
Engine is very powerful
It is really fun to drive it.
Trunk and interior are HUGE.
Vehicle handles excellent in the wet road
30MPG in the highway
Anyway, this is my LAST ford.
You can get a RELIABLE vehicle with the same money.
b) maybe you should've taken an extended test drive. Perhaps a rental. Thirty bucks woulda helped you see whether you liked the car before you bought it.
Brake lights not going off...fixed
Air-bag light staying on...not fixed
-TRANSMISSION-
But I have developed some new problems in the past few days. I was driving the Long Island Expressway a few nights ago, and I noticed that when I was cruising at 60, the RPM's would jump to 3 and then slip back to 2, and the car would jolt. It was rainy out, cold, so I attributed it to the weather. Then last night on another highway, it was doing the same thing, mid day, cool and calm out. Again, crusing at 60 and the same thing. I also take my foot off the gas, and it would jump up to 3, but not accelerate. When I came out of the mall, and started the car, the "service engine light" came on, and stayed on. Has anyone else had this problem.
-STARTING-
Also, starting the damn thing is sometimes near impossible. Sometimes it takes several attempts for it to start. I read in the manual that the PATS key, can not touch an alarm fob. But I sometimes do everything short of a "Tribal Rain Dance" to get it to turnover.
-STARTING...THE SEQUEL-
And this morning, as I was leaving my house, I tried to start the car, and it wouldn't even crank. Everything was working in the car, and I know that all lights are on auto. I did my little ranting, raving, cursing, and smoking dance and eventually it started... again has anyone had this problem?
-MACH AUDIO-
ALSO! I have the MACH audio system, and I noticed a high pitched frequency coming from the speakers. Is this something that can be adjusted. It is rather annoying. And there seems to be a rattle comming from the front, driver and passenger side
door pannels when the bass is pronounced in music being played.
-IDENDITY CRISIS...WHERE'S MY "L"?-
And, since I do have an SEL.. and it only says SE on the back. I would like my "L" I payed for my "L" I want my "L". Is there a way to get this?
-RECALL.. WHAT RECALL?-
Does this PCM recall have to do with my, my car was made in April. Bought in Long Island, NY, in July 2000. It's a 2000 SEL.
ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME! LOL E-mail me if you like at spyin78@aol.com.
Thanks,
Steve
1) Where did you buy yours? prices on the internet are all over the place...
2) Where in the trunk did you install it? I'm concerned about piling luggage around it.
Thanks.
I mounted my changer to the left of center by the left speaker. I had to use some stand offs as my mounting surface was ribbed. I used some stand offs from when I put up a bunch of peg board in my garage. They work great!
Don
http://www.luckyjdr.homestead.com/ls1impala.html
Except you even do not have the prototype 5.7l Impala. And, probably, never will: most likely, GM killed the trim and it will not enter in production.
http://www.9c1.com/pictures/ls1_impala/index.htm
the plans were unknown.
Still do not consider right to tease the people on this board. Or any other, except if specially intended for teasing.
The P.I.E. adapter cable I purchased at http://www.audio-etcetera.com. They listed the adapter at $89.95, but were willing to match a lower priced add at http://www.audio-warehouse.com/pie/pieindex.html for $77.00 (with purchase of the CD changer at $205.00). Since AudioEtcetera.com did not carry the CD changer, they matched the price any way at 77.00 plus $10.00 shipping to Utah.
If you are in the market for a CD changer all I can say is look around. After a few hours on the web I was able to find many prices that just kept getting lower and lower. Theses may not be the lowest prices, but I am satisfied. As far as mounting it, that would depend on what you carry in your trunk. The most common are on the Drivers rear Quarter panel in the trunk right by the radio controller, or like some one else mentioned, next to one of the rear speakers under the "third brake light".
Kenwood also makes an FM modulated model of both the 10 disk and 6 disk that runs a bit cheaper (10 disk KDC-C515 $199.99, and 6 disk KDC-C465 for $189.00) but the signal is converted to analog and broadcasted on a FM station. Not as good of a frequency response as using the digital input with the converter above. It will sound as good as your best received FM station, but about $70.00 cheaper.
I hope this has helped a few of you. TTFN
I currently have a '98 24v SE sedan. I have suddenly lost my heating capabilities. It only blows cold air. The A/C works fine (really cold air) and the engine temp. gauge is where it always is. Checked all the fuses and found none to be blown out.
What's the deal? Anyone else with this problem or know how to fix it? I even changed the cabin air filter 2 months ago (boy that really makes a difference in A/C cooling.
What's the deal? Anyone else with this problem or know how to fix it? I even changed the cabin air filter 2 months ago (boy that really makes a difference in A/C cooling.
I then started calling and bugging the parts dept. FINALLY, in October, I got my "L"!!! They send you the entire name on a piece of plastic film. You just pull off the letter and carefully line it up with the SE and push it on. It's sticky on the back.
Just keep being a nusance and say that the salesman let you down on this point. I told the parts guy that I WASN'T going away.
TB
it now. Anyone else have a 2001 Taurus? How has your experience been?
Don
Thanks,
Don
I also noticed that the steering wheel cruise control buttons don't light up at night. Is this right? The cruise buttons light up on my '97 Explorer and my friend's '98 F-150. What gives?
Thanks in advance!
Check and see if the passenger and rear door window switches are locked out.
On my '98 SE, I once noticed totally by accident that the passenger and rear window switches' lighting goes out when the power window lockout (on the driver's door) is switched on. I guess the lockout is accomplished by cutting the power to the other three window switches, which kills the lighting as well as the ability to lower the window from those switches. It's actually kind of a nice feature. I don't recall anything in the manual stating that this occurs. If the 2001s work the same, and your lockout is engaged, there should be nothing wrong. If the lockout is NOT engaged, then, yes, I'd suspect loose connections.
The buttons on the cruise in my '98 also do not light. Although the 2000-up steering wheels are different from my '98's, it's probably the same wiring, etc. You can use the indentations and raised sections to determine which button/section you are hitting.
Here's my take on the car:
I chose this car over the 2000 Honda Accord 3.0L-EX because of price. I paid $21,117 out the door for the Taurus(including leather upgrade) v/s the Accord at $24,800 out the door. I financed the entire $21,118 at 4.9% for 5 years - $398.36 month
No problems at all with the car. Drives great on freeway and o.k. on city streets. Average 21 MPG.
I'm 6'1 and the pwr driver seat allows me to go back further than the psngr. seat - wish I had a pwr psngr seat too!. Trunk space is great too when you need that bit of extra room. The only negative is the rapid depreciation. Poor plastic quality is noticeable and gap tolerances are not very tight, cheap looking..you know.
Today my car is worth $13,778 trade-in and only $14,865 private party. V/S the Accord with 16.5K miles would be worth $17,766 trade-in and $19,137 private party. You can count on the first year the Taurus will depreciate 30% v/s the Accord at 20%.