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Volvo S70



  • DelreybirdDelreybird Posts: 14
    I have also experienced some problems with my 2000 Volvo S70 SE GLT, which I bought in early May with 12,100 miles on it:

    The turn-signal switch failed.
    The "antenna ring" in the steering column (receives the signal from the silicon chip in the ignition key) failed, making starting problematic.
    The SRS (air bag) sensor switch failed, making air bag deployment in a crash highly unlikely.

    All these items have been fixed under warranty. Otherwise, the car is great. It has lots of power, gets excellent mileage and is very comfortable. This is my third Volvo. The first was an '83 240 wagon which I bought new at the end of '82 and drove for over 15 years and more than 285,000 miles. The second was a '97 850 sedan which I bought in Jan. 98 with 12,500 miles on it (it was previously in a rental fleet). We now have over 67,000 miles on it and it has been virtually trouble free. I'm hoping the new S70 will turn out to be an equally good purchase.
  • gcamcgcamc Posts: 1
    I have to admit, I have been happy with my Volvo. Now about 1 year old, no burnt out bulbs or any other problems. The only issue is that from time to time when I step on the brake pedel I feel it clicking and pulsating. In fact if you listen you can hear it click. There is no pattern to when this happens. At times I can go a week and have it happen under light breaking and also under heavy breaking. It has happend since the car was new. I told the dealer and they took it for a "test Ride" and did not encounter any problems. That I expected. Has anyone experienced this. The dealer is claiming ignorance and said he has not heard of the problem. I think he is full of it. I would appreciate any comments or suggestions on how to pursue this problem.

  • volvoscottvolvoscott Posts: 26

    This is normal operation of the electronic brake distribution system (EBD). It does self tests at random times. If there was something wrong in it, it would trigger the ABS light. Good luck with your S70.

  • fljintfljint Posts: 1
    i am close to purchasing this car with about 5700 miles on it and trading in my 1996 850 non turbo sedan with 69,000 miles on it . No problems with the 850 ,just want to upgrade to the turbo,sunroof,new body style,window controls on the door!!,etc. Am i silly to do this????
    please respond
  • DelreybirdDelreybird Posts: 14
    Hi "fljint",

    As you may know, 69,000 miles on a Volvo is next to nothing. At least, that's my experience, based on the manual transmission '83 Volvo 240 wagon that I bought new in late 1982 and drove for over 15 years and more than 285,000 miles. It was still going strong when I "traded" it in for a a slightly used '97 850 sedan (12,500 miles), of the non-turbo variety. I was living in Los Angeles at the time, and constant shifting in freeway traffic was getting wearing on my nerves. I have put close to 69,000 on the 850, with no problems to speak of, and expect to "drive it into the ground" (with oil changes every 3K miles and all scheduled maintenance). You should think long and hard about whether it's smart to trade a car with plenty of useful life left in it for another vehicle because you like its bells and whistles.

    However, I should tell you that in May I bought a slightly used (12,100 miles) 2000 S70 GLT SE, and it is a sweet car. (We got it because my wife was driving a '95 Cavalier with 167,000 miles on it, and we decided to get out of it while the getting was still good. She drives the 850 now.) I have put about 6,700 miles on the S70 and had a few problems with it: turn signal switch failed; steering column antenna ring (for the encrypted ignition keys) failed, making starting somewhat problematic; crash-sensor switch failed, making airbag deployment unlikely. All items were repaired under warranty, but it was a little annoying to have to keep going back to the dealer. I wouldn't buy this car just for its leather seats (first I've ever had, and very comfortable), its sunroof, door-mounted window controls, or style. HOWEVER, the light turbo is great, and the gas mileage is better than the non-turbo 850. Assuming my car doesn't develop all the problems other people in this discussion group have reported, I'll be very happy with it for a long time. All the same, I was happy driving the 850, and if we hadn't decided to unload my wife's Cavalier, I wouldn't have the 850 for the S70.

    I hope this helps you, although it probably won't.
  • dparesdpares Posts: 29
    I own a 2000 S70 SE.. bought it new.. black with graphite leather interior.. has most of the options..

    list of the problems.. (BTW (you can check back on here as I've recounted these before)
    1) Turn signal indicator failed.. repaired under a recall.
    2) Car failed to start.. nothing in the car worked..was totally dead.. finally got it started by jumping it.. drove it 30 miles to the dealer.. left it there.. they never found out why it wouldnt start.. I refused to take it back until they did.. they kept if for a week..never found it.. hasn't happened again but you never know!!!
    3) Trunk opens when it wants to..usually when I'm driving .. they put "o" rings in the remote trunk opener but that hasn't cured it
    4) Alarm wouldnt work for a week..then it did.. no problems since then!
    5) very strange grinding noise (or steady vibration) coming from under the car.. sometimes it sounds as if a grinder is in the trunk.. can be real loud one minute and almost inaudiible the next.. have driven it to the dealer grinding real loud and when they get in it you cant hear it.. VERY FRUSTRATING!.. they have kept my car for 2 weeks driving it home every day and needless to say haven't found it and rarely hear it... seems to be more of a cold /rainy weather thing.. most annoying thing about the car!

    On the positive side..we were rear ended when the car was brand new.. sitting at a light some one ran into us.. didnt even attempt to put on the breaks..stepped on the gas instead of the break and hit us again!..surprisingly..only the bumper was damaged..(it seemed at first, the body did give some).. knocked out some front grill pieces also.. we walked away without even a sore muscle! (cost over 3,000 to fix the car!!!!)

    and..BASED on that accident..i'd buy another in a heart beat! ..the car has smooth power..comfy seats.. nice quality about it, a very solid car...... but next time i'd get the turbo..
    Hope this helps some!
  • lowflyerlowflyer Posts: 5
    Any comments on the wood trim kits available for the base S70? Besides Volvo's OEM wood shift knob for automatic, does anyone else sell wood shift knobs that don't require me to trade in some of my T Bills?
  • lweisslweiss Posts: 342
    I have a 98 Volvo S-70 base model. A few questions:

    a) I have about 35,000 miles on the original tires- how long should they last- can I expect 50,000 miles on them

    b) My dealer suggests that I spend about $500 to get the 30,000 mile tune up. This seems somewhat high- should I just get a tune up, or let it go for a while. The car runs great- no problems really.

    c) My S-70 is the standard model- no turbo, light city driving. Do I need to use Premium fuel in it or will Regular grade be OK- what about the mid-Grade?

    This is the first Volvo that I have owned.
  • DelreybirdDelreybird Posts: 14
    Advice for Lweiss:

    I'm on my third Volvo. I have always done the regularly scheduled maintenance, plus changed the oil religiously every 3,000 miles, and my cars have never let me down. The maintenance interval for the S70 is 7,500 miles. A 30K-mile maintenance is probably more than just a light tune-up. I think this is something you should accept as something you need to do to keep your car in good running condition, and budget for it. I've mostly stuck with dealers, although when we were living in L.A., I found a really good, and cheaper, independent mechanic (a Swede who only worked on Volvos and Saabs) for my '83 240, and subsequently, my '97 850. Check around, maybe there's somebody like that in your neck of the woods. Good luck.
  • I'm considering purchasing a 2000 S70 and finding it difficult to get any infomation of the differences btw GLT, STD, etc. Not looking for lots of power but best gas milage, decent acceleration and all ammenities. Which model would be best?
  • jay44jay44 Posts: 7
    I also own a 98 S70 T5. I just replaced my original tires with 48K miles on the car. I also had the 30K mile tune-up, again at 48K. I believe it is a good idea but not an urgency. You may want to wait a while.
    I had the front discs replaced at 48K and they needed it. I would suggest you check yours if you have not replaced them.
    I use a mid-grade fuel and was told by the Volvo mechanic that it would work fine. So far it has. Hope this helps.
  • askewdraskewdr Posts: 1
    I bought a Certified 2000 S70 SE and would love to replace the "wood" trim at a cheaper cost than what the dealer is charging. Any ideas? By the way, as I was walking the Volvo lot I noticed some SE's with the "wood" melted. I think I will break down and buy one of those windshield shades.
  • dave229dave229 Posts: 1
    I am in the market for a pre-owned S70. A dealer presented me with a 1998 Volvo S70 A. Can anyone help me understand what the "A" is for? Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,662

    they don't always use those extra letters, but you'll see it sometimes. I'm also currently shopping for a '98 (specifically, a T5A, although I'd like to get a T5SEA [T5 special edition automatic] ;)).

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • boxer6boxer6 Posts: 20
    I think it stands for a**h**e because that's what I feel like. I own a 98 s70 that is currently in the shop, most likely for a new tranny. It bangs hard when going from drive or neutral to reverse. It has 28K MILES ON IT. This is the latest. Here's what I've gone through so far:

    New Tires, Two sets of break pads on the front wheels. One set of rotors on the front wheels. Was told they last about 30K. I also just went for the rear pads. These (breaks and rotors)are wear items and not warranted. I lost count on the bulbs, just had the recall work done. I smell a rotten egg smell from the converter but I get the old, "we could not duplicate the problem. I had to get the rear speakers replaced - defective. The internal door panels were bubbling. They had to be replaced. Lastly, the door locks malfunctioned and had to be replaced.The front stabilizer bar was replaced twice (separate occaisons) to eliminate a knocking sound going over bumbs. The stops had to be lubed twice (separate occaisons) to eliminate the sound of my tires rubbing on the wheel wells.

    Other than that it's a wonderful car. I think I'll buy a Hugo next so I can reduce my time spent at the mechanic.

    I do not beat up my cars. I service them when needed and drive at nomal speeds. Yes, the car is under warranty but I have gone through one oil change where I did not need to do other maintenance.

    In closing, this is my third Volvo. I'm outta here but how do I sell a car with a new tranny without spooking potential buyers
  • My "Check Engine" light recently came on. Can anyone tell me how important it is for me to bring this to the shop? It would be difficult to do so. I read the owners manual, which says that the light being on "does not affect driveability", and relates to the emissions control system, but should be checked. I made sure that the gas cap was on properly, so that's not the issue. Thanks.
  • boxer6boxer6 Posts: 20
    It is not a major problem. It is an oxygen sensor. It means that either your gas cap is loose or you did not shut the car while gassing up. Your dealer has to reset it but you have to watch how the gas attendants replace the cap when you gt gas.
  • boxer6boxer6 Posts: 20
    In case you were interested in my last post I stated the tranny may have to be replaced. The dealer had the car for three days and said they could not replicate the banging when I swithced the car to reverse. I stressed to the sevice manager that he has to shift several times and assured him it would "bang". Well, he said that he could not duplicate the sound and said he would change the fluid as a precaution - no charge. When I picked up the car my receipt said. "customer states........" "we tried for three days numerous times and could not find a problem"

    I went to pick up the car and did not get out of the shadow of the garage door when I decided to see if the problem was remedied. I quickly duplicated the problem, left the car and drove off in the loaner. Can I respond on the official Volvo service records that "customer duplicated the problem in 3 seconds"?

    They are very accomodating but the car seems to suck!!!!
  • godeacsgodeacs Posts: 481
    Keep in mind, Dave, that Consumer Reports lists 98 and 99 S70s as used cars to avoid! Btw, I've been a Volvo owner for the past 19 yrs and wouldn't touch any of their recent stuff - S40 and S80 have well-documented problems too! Volvo has really gone downhill the past few years. Is it a coincidence that Ford owns them? I think not.......
  • One of the lights in my rear cluster intermittently fails. I just bought a '98 S70 T-5 two weeks ago. The bulb is on the right rear cluster and is the outermost bulb that is on when the headlights are on. The "bulb-failure warning" light comes on in the dash. I drive for a while and it starts working again. It fails about 50% of the time when I start the car. But is working by the time I get to my destination about 90% of the time. Is this a electrical short? A loose wire maybe? Anyone else have this problem? Is there a simple fix?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,662
    possibly just a loose bulb. Many times, when I have this problem, I just pull the harness, remove the bulb, make sure the base of the bulb is clean, apply a coat of whatever chemical electrical contact aid I have (I would give a name, but I can't remember what I have and can't find one online at the moment [some kind of copper coating]), and put it back.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Your intermittent bulb failure is more than likely caused by a faulty parking light bulb in the rear. There are 4 single element bulbs along the top of the tail lights that stay on and they are notorious for shorting out and working intermittently. Do yourself a favor and replace all 4 of these bulbs and go on down the road. While you're in there, check the brake light bulbs. If the globes have a black spot on them, replace them too. They are on the bottom outer corner of the lights.

  • I am still happy with my 2000 S70 SE GLT. It's the most comfortable, most powerful, most fuel-efficient and smoothest-driving vehicle I've ever had. It's also my third Volvo in 19 years. The first, a 1983 240 wagon with manual transmission, went more than 285,000 miles over more than 15 years, and it's probably still on the road in L.A. The second, a non-turbo '97 850 sedan, which I bought slightly used in Jan. '98, has 69,000 trouble-free miles on it. My wife is driving that one.

    Now comes the 2000 S70, which I bought with 12,100 miles on the odometer in May. I've put about 5,500 miles on it since then and here's what's gone wrong:

    Turn signal switch failed -- replaced under warranty

    Antenna ring in steering column (for encrypted ignition keys) started going bad, making car-starting problematical -- replaced under warranty

    Crash-impact sensor for airbags failed -- replaced under warranty

    And the latest: Right-rear electric window doesn't work, either from the master switch or the door switch -- it will be fixed under warranty

    None of these problems (with the exception of the failing antenna ring) has been disabling, but coming as they have with low miles on the car and in fairly steady succession, they've been disconcerting.

    I bought this car based on my experience with my two other Volvos. Maybe I would have gotten something else if I'd researched it. Now however, I just have to hope that I'll be able to find and eliminate all the little gremlins in it before 50,000 miles or 2004, whichever comes first.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    I also posted this in maintenance and repair.

    I do not like the newer style Volvo's - they just don't seem like Volvo's to me anymore. Anyway, once I settle on my house in mid-september, I am considering a 2000 model S70. I know that the S70's are really just refined 850's. For a 2k model, all of the bugs should be worked out, correct? The car had basically been produced the same way with the same parts for several years, correct? Also, I know the GLT has more power, but does the turbo mean less reliability? Any advice, things to look out for on low mileage 2000 model S70 or S70 GLT's? Maybe a dealer still has a brand new left over somewhere?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,662
    the turbo does NOT mean less reliability. As long as you take care of it (change the oil regularly and on time, sufficient warm up and cool down time, etc.), then a turbo will last you just as long as an engine or transmission.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • If you can get a good deal on a GLT, go for it. The difference between our non-turbo '97 850 and our "light-turbo" '00 S70 is dramatic. The S70 has terrific acceleration -- and it gets consistently better gas mileage. You won't be sorry.
  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    Now, when looking at a low mileage S70 (up to 20k miles), are their any questions I should ask? Any components that go bad early on, that I should make sure have already been fixed/replaced?

    Also - with the Light Turbo - do you HAVE to use premium unleaded?

  • boxer6boxer6 Posts: 20
    Ask about the breaks and rotors. These are not "made to last but made to stop the car efficiently as well as be economically friendly" - a quote from headquarters. The rotors are built to last twice as long as the pads. I my case the fronnt pads were replaced at 13 and again at 28K The second time I went for the rotors. The rear pads lasted to 28K. Take note of the interior door panels. Mine bubbled and had to be replaced. Make sure all recall work was performed. Make sure the car had its 20k service performed.

    Good luck.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,662
    Well, it all depends where you buy the car. If you buy from a dealer and its a certified Volvo, then everything is supposed to be taken care of. I just bought a certified '98 T5 and asked about the turn signal lamps that were supposed to be replaced according to a Technical Service Bulletin and I also asked about the 30K mile service (the car I bought had 31K) because its rather expensive to have done. According to them, in order to "certify" a used Volvo, they have to perform all recalls/bulletins and they must perform a full service on the car (mine had new brakes and new tires all around, in addition to the 30K service). And the nice thing about certified is that the full warranty is now 7 years/74K miles from the original date of purchase (I'll hit that 74 mark WAY before the car is 7 years old). 44K mile warranty is better than MANY new cars these days.

    Even the T5 manual says that you can use regular gas, but they don't recommend it because the car will run best on 93. I'll probably be using 91.

    Good luck.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Justin,
    I use 89-octane gas in my S70 "light turbo" and in my 850 non-turbo. It works fine. Also, I pretty much stick to Chevron, which a couple of dealers have told me is superior to other brands (contrary to the conventional wisdom that all gas is the same).
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