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Volvo S70

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Comments

  • bucky11bucky11 Member Posts: 5
    I'm considering buying a 1998 S70 T5 with 125,000 miles. The dealer is asking $12,900, and is including a limited 2 year/24,000 mile warranty that excludes brakes and the electrical system. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with a high mileage S70 T5, and can provide some guidance on whether this deal looks attractive? The appearance of the car is good, and it accelerates, brakes and handles well.
  • tiger8tiger8 Member Posts: 120
    '98 was the first year Volvo switched to the S70. Although it's similar to the 850, the repair record of the '98s is poor. See Consumer Reports reliability charts on this. They specifically advise avoiding the '98 S70s. My son had one coming off lease and offered to buy it and sell it to me; I'm glad I decided against it. Electrical problems galore. We finally bought a 2000 S70 GLT. It's certainly better than the '98s, but it's a far cry from the reliability of Japanese cars. Check out the ride of the T-5s carefully; they are very harsh. It's true Volvos supposedly last forever, but I believe you pay a big price in repairs for that immortality.
  • godeacsgodeacs Member Posts: 481
    you beat me to the punch! Agree with all your comments. Sad to say, Volvo reliability is not the same as it used to be.
  • bucky11bucky11 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the feedback. I was hoping that a high mileage S70 might actually be a safer bet since all of the recall work and TSB's should have been done already. I'm interested in the car primarily for the safety features, but it sounds like I would need to budget $1000+/year for repairs to keep it running.
  • joel2468joel2468 Member Posts: 75
    I owned a 1999 Volvo S70 base model. This was touted to be more reliable than the turbos. Not so. The ride was rough, tore through light bulbs, squeaked and rattled, rode like a truck, and left me stranded three times. Each time, the dealer, though they tried, could not identify a problem. No, I didn't hate the Volvo, I just think a $30K car should not have the problems it did. I replaced it with a 2001 Toyota Avalon, and haven't had a problem, or complaint, since. The Toyota isn't perfect, but is lightyears ahead of any S70. At the very least, I haven't wondered at all whether or not it would start. Also, 125K miles seems a little high to me, as is the 12,900 price. Yes, the Volvo is safe, but as tiger8 says, they are "durable" (because you constatntly replace parts), but they have not been reliable. It looks, though, like the S60 might get Volvo back on the reliability track, and recent reports of the 2002 S80 seem OK. Anything from 1998 to 2001 is suspect.
  • tiger8tiger8 Member Posts: 120
    You were interested in the Volvo because of its safety record. It's true they're safe, but many manufacturers have narrowed or closed the safety gap with Volvo. Again, check Consumer Reports, April issue, for the section on safety and which cars have done well in both the govt. and insurance industry tests.

    To repeat, I would not advise buying that car with 125,000 on it. Volvo sales are down recently, I believe, and I think they are being slowly crunched between the reliability of the Japanese cars and the engineering of the German cars. Unless they shape up, they may drift slowly down to insignificance. The Volvo mystique remains its greatest asset, but I believe that is being depleted.
  • bucky11bucky11 Member Posts: 5
    It looks like the consensus is unanimous. I was hoping to hear from an owner of a high mileage S70 that could recommend the car, but that seems unlikely based on your reports. I am aware of the the problems cited by Consumer Reports and was wondering if some or all were addressed by the three recalls and the Technical Service Bulletins. I could almost live with the high maintenance cost, if I could acquire the car at the right price. But I get the impression everyone would stay away from the car even, if the price were $10,000 or less.

    I'm retiring a 1989 Acura legend with 105,000 miles that I bought new. It's starting to show some rust, the ABS has failed, CV joints needed to be replaced, water pump needs to be replaced, and the valves have been loud since 70,000 miles. However, it has never left me stranded. I only put about 8,000 miles per year on a car which is why I was considering a high mileage car. Historically, my vehicles have been retired with fully functional engines and drive trains but have failed from either corrosion or collisions.

    Ironically, I found out the S70 was a trade in for a new Acura. I suppose that fact alone should tell me the original S70 owner felt the Acura was the better choice.

    The other car I'm looking at is a '99 Camry LE with 20,000 miles for $12,500. Not an exciting drive but reasonably safe and dependable transportation. Thanks again folks for the input.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    I bought a '98 T5 and have not had any problems. Ok, its true, the light bulbs don't last forever. But, I've only had to replace 2 brake light bulbs in the past 9 months, so I don't consider that a major issue. I bought my T5 used and have put 22,000 miles on it since. I absolutely love it. I too had a few people (here on edmunds) speak out against the 98 S70 as the folks here are doing. But, after doing a lot of searching and reading, i found the problems people complained about to be nothing to worry about and certainly not as wide spread as some would have you believe. A few real problem examples can be found with ANY model car you look at.

    Having said that, would I buy a car with 125K miles for $13 grand? No way. I can think of several nice cars for less than that which you can drive for much longer. Look at it this way, if you could get, say, 200K miles out of the volvo, you just spent $13K for a car with only 75,000 miles of life left in it. If you ever decided you did want to sell it, how many people will you find who would want such a high mileage example.

    To put it in perspective, I paid $20K for my T5 with 30K miles. If your example has 75K miles of life left in it, mine has 170K. So I paid roughly one and one-half times the price for a car which has well more than double the life left in it. I know its kinda a strange equation, but that's just how I look at it when I'm car shopping. I want to know many miles I'll have on a car when I'm done paying it off, etc. etc.

    well, good luck.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • DelreybirdDelreybird Member Posts: 14
    I wouldn't pay $13,000 for an S70 T5 -- or any Volvo -- with 125,000 miles on it, even though I've owned three Volvos and been satisfied with them. Last May, I bought a 2000 S70 SE GLT with about 12,200 miles on it. I paid $28,700 for it. I'm happy with the car, although I think I probably paid about $1,500 more than I should have. Four years ago, I bought an 850 (non-turbo) with about 12,500 miles on it for $23,500. My wife drives this car; it now has nearly 80,000 miles on it and has been very reliable. Based on the miles on the Volvos I bought and what I paid for them, I don't think it's a good idea to pay nearly half as much for a car with 10 times as much mileage.
  • lurking44lurking44 Member Posts: 8
    Wow, that's an uncommon figure. I car that's only 4 years old with 125K miles, impressive. I wouldn't buy this vehicle either. Even with the warrenty, you'll be eating a lot of repair costs yourself. Maybe for about $9,000 US I'd consider it, but I'd want to get a through list of parts replaced by the seller. I'd also want to get an independant mechanic to look it over. I don't expect the transmission or the pumps (water/fuel) to last much over 150K. Those items are expensive! Even basic stuff like tune ups (spark plugs, new brake fluid, new fuel filter) is important to the value equation when looking at a high mileage late model vehicle. I wouldn't rule it out, but don't pay more than 10K for that vehicle!
  • bucky11bucky11 Member Posts: 5
    I was able to track down the service records for the past 20K miles. It looks like the previous owner finally decided to trade the car because it was in the shop every month for the last five months he owned it. 8/01 103K Replaced Blower fan for heat/AC, 9/01 108K Replaced two struts, 10/01 110K Replaced battery and vacuum hose, 11/01 115K Replaced Spark Plugs and wiper blades, 12/01 120K Replaced rear brake pads and rotors. He also did an oil change during each service. It's starting to sound like $9000 is closer to the actual value of the car. However, I suspect the dealer will say he could wholesale the car at that price.
  • bucky11bucky11 Member Posts: 5
    The dealer just called about the car. It turns out he had the car on Ebay 45 days ago. He says the high bid was $9050 and that four people emailed him $10,000 offers after the auction closed. He didn't accept the offers at that time but he now seems receptive to a $9000-$10,000 cash offer for the car, if he deletes the extended warranty.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    well, the only thing on that list that is beyond what should be expected on a car with that many miles is the blower fan. Still, though, I don't consider that to be out of line for repairs on a 125K mile car.

    Don't know if I'd give up that 2 year warranty.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • chop420chop420 Member Posts: 7
    I just completed a deal with my Volvo/Toyota dealer where I traded in my 2000 Volvo S70 GLT for a 2002 Toyota Solara. The Volvo had only 22K miles on it and was in perfect condition and they gave me $20,500. I talked them down on the Solara and got a straight up trade for the Volvo. I really enjoyed the S70, but the final straw was a rear tailight failure that melted the interior plastic housing of the light. I've replaced the headlights 3 times and also had a batter that leaked battery acid twice all over the inside of the engine compartment. I think the Solara is much smoother and quieter than the more expensive S70 and I'm hoping more reliable.
  • sjazsjaz Member Posts: 7
    I've been having a problem with the rear brakes of my 1998 S70 GLT. When I apply the brakes there is a really bad vibration from the rear of the car - it feels like the car is going to break apart. I had it to my dealer and they told me that the shims were missing and that I needed new rear brakes (less than 30% remaining). I ended up changing the brakes myself (did not use Volvo brakes) and discovered that the shims were still there and that I had about 50% pad remaining. I've waited several months after installing the new brakes to see if the problem would go away - it hasn't. I have an appointment at the dealer to get this problem rechecked but I'm afraid they are going to give me their standard, "It's probably because you didn't use Volvo parts". When I set the appointment I made them aware that this problem was occuring even when I had Volvo brakes. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what might be the problem? Also, I was told that the timing belt should be changed because I am at 70,000 miles - is this necessary? (Note: I have new tires since the problem originally began)

    Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    could be a warped rotor.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • sjazsjaz Member Posts: 7
    At first I thought it might be a warped rotor but the problem doesn't occur all the time. If when I apply the brakes, I get the bad vibration, I let up on the brakes a little bit and then reapply them and the vibration goes away. This problem originally began when the ABS light came on for no apparent reason (going down the interstate and not had not been applying my brakes). I took the car to the dealership and they replaced the computer that controls the ABS. When I asked about whether the ABS could have caused the vibration they told me no and that the vibration was because I needed new brakes and was missing the brake shims. I want to go to the dealership this time with as much information as possible so I don't get told I need new brakes again. Has anyone ever experienced this problem or heard of it?
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  • andymsnandymsn Member Posts: 22
    I bought a used S70 T5 from a dealer in central Wisconsin at the end of March for $15,000.00. No s---. The car wasn't perfect, certainly (it was a lease out of the Chicago area so it had a few minor scratches and it needs tires), but overall how can you go wrong for $15k for a car that was $30k new with 33,100 miles on it? DON'T buy that high mileage T5. Patience, Grasshopper. Look around. :)
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    What year is it?
    If its loaded, try closer to $40K new! (at least that's what the window sticker I found in the glovebox of my '98 said - $38K and change, actually). :)

    Good deal, by the way. I'm sure being in central Wisconsin helps keep the prices down, no?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • DelreybirdDelreybird Member Posts: 14
    The Michelin XGT V4 tires on my 2000 S70 have 21,000 miles on them (the same as on the car). Given the way they are wearing, I seriously doubt that I can get 40,000 miles out of them. I bought the car slightly used; it had been in Enterprise's rental fleet for its first 12,100 miles, and I suspect that the tires were driven "soft" for most of this distance. I keep the tires at 36 psi (cold), the maximum recommended pressure -- which I've always understood is the way to go to prolong tread life. (Please correct me if I'm wrong on this.)

    Looking ahead to my next set of tires for this car, I would like to know what other brands other S70 owners have used, and what their experience has been. Thanks in advance for your input.
  • sjazsjaz Member Posts: 7
    Does anyone know where I can purchase new flip down sun visors for a 1998 Volvo S70? Mine (both driver and passenger side) don't stay all the way up when not in use and tend to fall right about eye level. I would rather not get them through the local Volvo dealership since they want about $100 a piece for them.

    Thanks.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    Is it safe to say that Volvo cheapened the build quality of its vehicles after 1997, when the 70 Series came out?
  • godeacsgodeacs Member Posts: 481
    Yes!!!!!!!!!! Hopefully, they're starting to turn it around but the last few years have not been good for Volvo's rep....
  • tiger8tiger8 Member Posts: 120
    Volvo is being squeezed between the reliability of the Japanese cars and the engineering of the German cars. S70 is basically the same car as the 850. Why after all these years they can't solve the electrical problems is beyond me--either lazy, indifferent or incompetent. The S80 is racking up a poor repair record also. Their sales are falling. They can't compete with BMW or even Audi, and even the Japanese compacts have them beat in terms of refinement.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    I agree with you. I am very upset at Volvo because they basically sold the same car platform in the U.S. for eight years (850/S70) and all of them had electrical troubles. I've been lucky so far with my '93 850; after nine years, it's only gone through one headlight and one heated seat switch. Also, the a/c evaporators are a problem with Volvos of this vintage; mine went out at 68k miles and had to be replaced. But I agree that the S70 has not had a good reliability record; I've talked to many owners of these cars and they cite many problems.
  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Member Posts: 1,711
    Might I add that just this morning, my friend called me to say that her father traded in his '98 V70 for a new Lexus? He was tired of all the electrical and transmission problems that were plaguing his Volvo.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    Have you looked into just bulking up the rubber gaskets which hold the visors up? maybe just wrap a bit of tape around the piece that snaps into the hook will hold it tight enough. Just a thought.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • susanmhermsusanmherm Member Posts: 1
    We are having persistent difficulty re-fueling our S70. Despite attempting holding the gas hose at multiple angles and innumerable local gas stations, the putting more gas in this car is a nightmare as the gas hose clicks off (as if the tank were full) approximately every one quarter gallon. Any ideas????? Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    I'm sorry to say, I have no idea. Just didn't want to leave you hanging like nobody is paying attention here (this is an awfully slow board - does that bode well or poorly for this car?). Anyway, I haven't had that problem. As a matter of fact, my S70 seems to trigger that pump response less than any other car I've had.

    So you say you've tried different gas stations. I don't know if this makes a difference, but have they been different companies, too? Maybe one company uses the same type pump.... I'm really reaching....

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • jay44jay44 Member Posts: 7
    Try pulling the gas nozzle out a few inches. This has always worked for me. I believe the pump is sensing the gas fumes and thinks the tank is full.
  • tiger8tiger8 Member Posts: 120
    Strange. We have a 2000 S70 GLT, and that's one problem we've never had. I filled up yesterday all the way from empty and nary a cutoff. Never had one. Check with the dealer or call the car guys on Saturday morning. As someone above said, try another gas station. Maybe it's their pumps.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The Town Hall is about to take on a new look in an effort to make content more easily searchable and accessible.

    Have you seen the Letter from the Town Hall Manager on the Town Hall Welcome page? If not, you might want to follow that link to have a look.

    And hang on to your seats. Change is never easy - for any of us - but resolving the Search problems we've had will be worth the pain.

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  • jeff190jeff190 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at buying a 1998 S70, with 47K miles on it. It is a certified pre-owned from a Volvo Dealer and they are asking 17,990 for it. Is this a fair price, and what kind of reliability problems should I be aware of (if any) for this model?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    is that a base model? Seems pretty steep to me. I've been seeing base models with less miles around here for $15-$16K. GLTs with 40K for $17K+. T5s for $19K+.

    Actually, I just glanced at Edmunds prices and they are pretty much inline with what I just wrote there. So plug your info in the used car guide here and see what it says.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • tiger8tiger8 Member Posts: 120
    1998 was the first year of production for the S70. Plagued with problems, especially electrical problems. Consumer Reports says avoid the S70 in that year. Later years are better (by Volvo standards which aren't high). For used cars, I'd turn to the Japanese which are bullet proof--a late model Toyota, Honda, Nissan Maxima, Acura. A '98 Volvo you're buying someone's problem ridden cast off toy.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    my '98 is great.

    This has been gone around again and again. Every car has its complaints. I could find you plenty of people who would say the same things about all those other brands you just mentioned, too.

    The electrical problems revolve around the lights and those are fixed by a recall. Don't know of any other real common problems that are REAL PROBLEMS.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • ledanrebledanreb Member Posts: 3
    I'm in the process of buying a 99 T5 with 43k miles for about 17k. However, the car has an electrical problem (can't start without a booster). The dealer claimed that they would get it fixed. Also the manual shifter has no play at all, I can't tell when the car is in neutral or not. I would like your advices here before I buy the car. Please let me know if anyone of you has had these problems, and what the fix was.....Thanks
  • sean029sean029 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 98 S70 and have been to our local dealership in Exeter, NH for service (I use this word lightly). I have been back to them for about $3800.00 this year. My car has been in for a brake light sensor, main seal, new brakes at 15K, heated seat not working, Radio not working, Power windows not working, Auto lock not working, headlight get replaced about every three months, Cruise control not work from the day I pick it up. I bring it back to the dealer so many times for the same items with no help. The car has so many problems I don't know what to do. I feel like I got stick with a lemon. I have heard so many good things about Volvo but have not been satisfied with mine. I had a Toyota for 11 years and put 230K miles on it. The car was great and in perfect working order when we sold it. I do not feel we can get the same out of this car. The dash light just went on again and the fumes from the exhaust are so bad it is unbearable. Great blue smoke as well comes from the tail pipe. But it looks nice.

    Any help on what we can do to solve any of these issues.

    Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    Try a different dealer. Each one does things their own way and it pays to try them out and find one that will make you happy.

    So, you have owned this car for 4 years? Have you had these problems all along? And you're just now realizing the dealer is a pain?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • DelreybirdDelreybird Member Posts: 14
    I would like to get a consensus (if there is one) on the best tires to get for my 2000 S70. I bought the car barely used (12,100 miles on it), with Michelin XGT V4 tires. The car and tires now have about 22,000 miles on them and the tires are not wearing well. I may have to replace them at 30,000 miles. I don't think this is very good for radial tires. The car was originally in a rental fleet and the tires were probably driven "soft" for a year. Since buying the car, I have kept the tires at the maximum recommended "cold" pressure -- 36 psi -- on the understanding that this would both prolong tread life and improve gas mileage. I have been wedded to Michelins for a long time, but I'm beginning to think it's time to consider alternatives. Does anybody have any recommendations?
  • arbbass1arbbass1 Member Posts: 1
    I am also looking to replace the original tires on my 2000 S70. I have called several Volvo specialists and they all recommended buying the same tires.
  • burnsmr4burnsmr4 Member Posts: 318
    You guys are gonna cringe at this one.

    My wife let her '98 S70 go without 60K and 70K mile services. I just had the 70K mile service done last week at 77K+ miles. I couldn't believe that she let it go so long. Everything seemed to be in order, but she needs new front rotors and pads...about $375 at an independent shop. $275 at another one if we go with aftermarket rotors.

    After I picked up the car, the ABS and TRACS lights got stuck in the on position. It was pretty random, and I took it back to the shop. The mechanic, whom I know to be pretty trustworthy from word-of-mouth (so I don't think he messed with the ABS/traction control unit), said that the ABS/traction control unit either got some dirt in the connections, or it's going bad. He was good about NOT pushing the repair, as it's VERY expensive. He blew out the connectors on the driver's side of the firewall and everything seemed OK.

    The lights came back on again with my wife a day or two later, but today, after having the S70 sitting all weekend, the lights didn't come on after starting up. Any clues? Any ideas here? Could a Volvo dealership tell me if the unit is defective without charging me out the wazoo for checking?

    By the way, if anyone is looking for what appears to be a well-respected Atlanta independent Volvo mechanic, check out Vol-Repair in Decatur/Atlanta. All family owned/operated, and I have yet to hear of a bad story. I think my wife's car is just suffering aging problems.

    Any input is greatly appreciated.

    Regards,
    burnsmr4
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    I'd let it go unless the lights come on again. If they do, then I'd worry. If not, I'd just mark it up to the car getting used to the new parts.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • tomleonetomleone Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know if it is harmful to use Fuel Injector Cleaner on a '98 S70 GLT? I have heard that it can cause problems.
  • burnsmr4burnsmr4 Member Posts: 318
    gbrozen -- were you talking about the warning lights for the ABS and TRACS system on my wife's car or another post?

    [ Hint to Edmunds.com -- threaded discussions would make such confusion completely obsolete. ;-) ]

    Thanks,
    burnsmr4
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    [ Hint to burnsmr4 -- if you want someone who actually makes decisions about those sorts of things to hear you, post it in Ask the Town Hall Hosts or Our Software over in News & Views. ;-> ]
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    I was referring to your warning lights, burnsmr4.

    let us know what happens.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,925
    Harmful? In what way?

    I've been using Fuel Injector Cleaner every oil change in my 98 T5 and have experienced no problems to date. I don't see why it would cause any troubles. You didn't by any chance hear this from someone who wants to sell you on a $100 professional Fuel Injection cleaning, did you? ;)

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

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