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Mitsubishi Galant



  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Supposedly, the correct way to torque the lug nuts is with a hand operated torque wrench, set to the proper torque specification. Mitsu dealers are aware of this, but like my friend said, they only use the proper procedure when the regional rep comes in and does an inspection because it is too time consuming otherwise. The rotor design is a little flawed on this car (however, it makes them much easier to replace), but honestly, the mechanics are as much to blame. Your Toyota may not have used a "floating" rotor design which can make them more susceptible to warpage. The only thing that holds your rotors securely in place is the lug nuts (the two bolts that hold the caliper in place help, but not enough). If any side of the rotor is tightened to a different torque than the opposite side, you will run into uneven pressure and eventually, warpage.

    I know what you are going through though. I had a 93 Diamante that warped it's rotors twice in a short period of time. I had the new rotors turned once and than retorqueing the lug nuts after I got it home from the local tire shop kept the problem at bay (some of the lug nuts were real tight and others were not, thus the source of my problem). My 02 Lancer hasn't had any warpage problems in 23k, and I attribute that to the fact I rotated the tires myself and no air gun has touched the car. I wouldn't let the rotors ruin your whole enjoyment of the car. If that is your only problem, I would get the current rotors replaced and just take care in how the lug nuts are tightened and I think your problem would stop.
  • mich2001mich2001 Posts: 9
    I have continiuos noise on rear wheels,when vehicle start accelerated over 5-10 miles/pre hour.I am using Kelly charger tires on back.
    I am wondering,if somebody have same problem?
    Or I have just wrong tires?
    Very appreciated for your help guys.
  • lawman1967lawman1967 Posts: 314
    My car was worse. At 13K miles the left front pad was worn (the right was at 90%), meaning a defective caliper. The caliper was replaced under warranty, but they would only turn the rotors, not replace. I figured (correctly) that any amount of friction that could wear a new pad down to the sensor in only 13K miles is severe enough to seriously overheat the rotor.

    I was proven right at 20K when the steering would shudder under breaking. Imagine my lack of surprise when only the left rotor was badly warped!

    It took mention of small claims court for them to replace my rotors, and would you believe they expected me to settle for just the left one? Anyway, I got two new rotors and HOPEFULLY my break problems will be over.
  • 2002gtz2002gtz Posts: 5
    I'm looking at lowering my 2002GTZ with some aftermarket springs. Does anybody know the pros and cons for installing either Spring, Progress Technology or Eibach Springs? Which one would be the best for a better stance and less body roll without interfering with the interworkings of the wheelwell?
  • cbnearlacbnearla Posts: 28
    Anybody know what's up with this site? Seems like it has been down since last Thursday.
  • oskwioskwi Posts: 88
    Well, I finally had the car in for service regarding the clunking...the ball joints were already done so that was not the culprit. So far, a tranny mount and two engine mounts have been replaced but to no avail. They thought the engine mounts were making the noise because a couple of Eclipses came in with the same type of sound. Everything else is tight as can be...maybe it's something internal. Anyway, I told the dealership to keep the car another day so that this problem can be spotted and corrected. So far, I've done repairs totaling about $1000 that fixed absolutely nothing...all this on a graduate student's poverty level income...can't wait to be done with my Master's...onward and upward to my next poverty level wage...that of a school counselor! :) I would love to unload this car but the money I would put down has to go towards a move from Wisconsin to New York this summer. I really hope the economy stays sour until I can get back home and purchase a car with some kind of great financing deal...I know that's pretty selfish of me, but I need a cheap payment until graduate school is done! Any info. anyone has would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
  • 2002gtz2002gtz Posts: 5
    Hey, still clunking; ever thought about joining the Army?
  • dunworthdunworth Posts: 338
    I had a Galant rental up here in Toronto for 3 days. This is a really nice driving car. It was the base ES version with the large 2.4 L four.

    It was roomy, powerful enough for highway driving and yielded about 39 mpg (imperial gallon)/32.5 (US gallon). It did not exhibit any squeaks or rattles and I was impressed with the overall build quality. I liked the crisp exterior (IMHO better than the current Accord,Camry or Altima)but the interior design was a bit dull.

    These are new up here in Canada (Mitsu has only been here about a year). I see a few Lancers around but the Galant is rare. I think they are well priced and cheaper than the Accord/Camry. I myself drive a Honda and Toyota which are a bit nicer inside but the Mitsu appears to offer good value. It would definitely be on my shopping list if I was in the market for a midsize.

    A question for anyone on this board. I believe this car shares a platform and the 2.4L engine with the base models of the Chrysler Sebring, Hyundai Sonata and Kia Optima/Magentis. Can anyone confirm that this is true?. Is the engine a Mitsu? It this a reliable car? Is the Chrysler version as good (we have more dealers for these).
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    The 2.4 liter engine in the Galant is not the same engine that's in the Sebring sedan or the Sonata/Optima. In fact, none of these engines are related. The platforms aren't related either. However, the Galant does share its engine and a modified version of it's platform with the Sebring coupe. The engine in the Galant and Sebring coupe is a Mitsu design. Does that help clear up the confusion? Mitsu cars are very reliable and well-designed. You should check them out when you look for a new car.
  • gejuancgejuanc Posts: 1
    Does this price seem typical for a 2001 Galant used? Those of you that have experience with the 2001 Galant, have you had any major problems? If so, what kind?
    2001 MITSUBISHI GALANT, auto, pwr., 55K, green w/gray int., tint, $5900,
  • dunworthdunworth Posts: 338
    Thanks for the post. You were correct. I found this on the Ion board.

    I had stopped looking for here thinking that the board had gone quiet.

    The reason I asked is that in the 1980s the larger 4 cyl engines in Chrysler were Mitsu and nearly all Hyundai stuff was Mitsu based as well. My last Hyundai had that company's own Beta 1.8. As you said, the current Galant and Sebring share a Mitsu platform.
  • vonnyvoncevonnyvonce Posts: 129
    Have a 95 4 cyl. which was throwing alternator, A/C and power sterring belts off. Noticed the bottom pulley was not in line with the others. Took a look at it and found the outer part totally loose. I pulled it off and found a rubber cover over the inner pulley. What's the fix for this. Seems like the rubber is glazed and not grabbing at all????
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,398
    Seems a bit low. What trim line (DE, ES, LS, GTZ)? Which engine? Any other major options?

    Have you looked computed the used price using the 'net tools available at Edmunds and Kelly Blue Book?

    I've a 99 LS V6 with 76K miles. The 01 isn't particularly different. Mine has been quite reliable and has had only a very few minor issues. Scroll back a bit and you'll see my latest posting on the reliability I've gotten.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • kostadinovkostadinov Posts: 11
    hi there!

    I am having a problem with reprogramming a new remote for my galant 2002...we have just one remote with the keys..and since both me and my wife are driving,I decided that we need a second one...
    Got the new remote from ebay for $10...and was so happy until the dealer I got the car from/carmax/...asked me for 75 dollars to do the reprogramming.....was told that it is an hour job...and there are many steps to be performed via the computer and so on....
    I just don't accept is electronic stuff and don't think will take more than 5 min to do the task...anyway..
    if someone knows a better and cheaper way of doing that...please let me know....

    To all others....please verify the cost of the reprogramming before you buy a new one...

    In carmax I was told that they would'ev charged me 100 dollars for the remote itself and additional 75 for the reprogramming.....
  • cbnearlacbnearla Posts: 28
    Go to and search the forums for keyless entry. There was a thread recently on programming them
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Posts: 4,202
    We were able to find instructions to program a remote for a 1996 Civic EX. They didn't work but you might have better luck with the Galant. I think $75 is a little severe since a local Honda specialist programmed the remote for free with a fairly minor service.
  • kostadinovkostadinov Posts: 11
    thanks for the answers,I have spent hours on i found something....I just cannot get myself to believe it's going to work..... in the dealership they told me the computer needs to be plugged in...and so on...and now after reading this stuff with pressing the hazard lights 6 times and doing the task within a minute...I am just afraid I might damage the working remote and then they will charge me 150 to do both of them..anyway....
    there is another slight problem now...
    when the AC is on I noticed some vibrations on the stearing weel that desappear right afeter I svich the AC off.....I wander if this is normal...I know that running an AC is quite a task ...just don't want to think that it will be so notiseably...with my lovely Galant in Burgundy....
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    It is normal to feel a little more vibration through the steering wheel when using the AC.

    Reprogramming the remote is an odd procedure in most cars. For instance, my 97 Altima required I have all doors closed, lock the door with the power door lock switch, insert and take out the key from the ignition 10 times within 10 seconds, than the emergency flasher lights would flash twice, and than you pressed any button on the remote. It sounded quite ridiculous to me and neither I nor the dealership could get it to work initially. I finally figured out I was inserting the key too fast and programmed the remote successfully for free. So, if the directions you found sound equally odd, don't worry it's normal. Give it a try if the person said it works!
  • kostadinovkostadinov Posts: 11
    thanks , I feel like I am not the only one.....
    Will give it a try very least it is worth to save some bucks,isn't it?
    I'd like to share something else,though!
    It is my front lights this time....the glass that covers the lights is scratched so badly...firrst I taught it is because the previous owners had been driving mostly on the motorway - the car has 17000 miles after 17 months from the 1st registration...
    and then I had a better look on the bonet and on the front bumper... and I couldn't find any scratches...isn't it an odd fact...
    now I am wandering how these scratches got on my front lights???
    I dunno,I just try not to think of this car so much...but i got obsessed,I am afraid. Used to drive an 1994 Galant in my previous place,in London,UK...and was so hapy with the old I just got the dream of my life...G8 from 2002 and I have to fight my five for a bit of driving...otherways my daily transportation consist of a 2001 Ford Ranger EDGE.....and I hate Ford....this one just was terribly cheap that I couldn't resist not buying was 3500 bellow KBB and almost 4000 bellow the similar Rangers in Carmax
    Considering that I am new resident to the USA with no credit history at all....shouldn't complain too much,should I!
  • I just bought a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant ES w/ 23 miles on it. I did not check over the car before buying it as far as outside appearance or under the hood as I thought I should not have to do that w/ it being a new car - the car should have been perfect. Had it been a used car I would have checked it out thoroughly. Anyway - - There were scratches on the drivers side window - a rust spot on the door panel and rust starting on the rear driver side door. Then I looked under the hood and about fell over. The head gasket is PURE rust - there is rust all over the engine block - I'd say half of the things under the hood have rust on them. I took the car back to the dealer and said this is absolutely unacceptable - he told me that it's normal - nothing under the hood looked out of the ordinary to him. How the hell can a 2003 w/ 23 miles be rusted under the hood????? I asked to see under the hood of another Galant and that too had rusty parts but not as bad as the one I have. Has anyone else had this problem???? I know cars will eventually rust but a new car should not be this way. I had a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse w/ 159,000 miles on it that wasn't rusted. If Mitsubishi is selling cars w/ rusted parts I don't know how that can be acceptable. If anyone out there has had a similar problem please let me know.

  • Hi there!
    Just checked and confirmed that the material for the engine's block is CAST-IRON!!!This is why it is rusty, 2 days are more than enough to get rust on anything that is cast-iron,especially if you live in high humidity and temperature area!There isn't nothing to worry about as long as the block is rusty,the trouble starts when it gets oily!
    I am not sure about the body,though!It is galvanized and it is covered by some warranty against rust,7 years and 100 000 miles....."Every 2003 Mitsubishi comes with extensive coverage to ensure your satisfaction, including a 3-year/36,000-mile New Vehicle Limited Warranty; a 5-year/60,000-mile Powertrain Limited Warranty; and a 7-year/100,000-mile Anti-Corrosion/Perforation Limited Warranty."-this is from the following link:

    If I were you I would go and ask for exchange if your galant has rust on the body,cos' it is covered by the warranty,and as the body is galvanized,the rusty spots will get worse once they have started to apeare.....and one of the reason could be some deep scratch or ding that has broken the galvanized layer on the body,once this layer is broken the corrosion is on immediately and it's very difficult to be stopped.
    I would suggest that you examine the paint work around the rust spots to determine whether there has been some painting or not. This will show that the brand new car had been scratched and re painted prior to selling and eventually you are the owner now. Very close look and touch will show you re spraying,there always will be some traces left no matter how professionally the touch up is,in your case it looks like an amateur's job!
    Let me know if this helps,thanks!
  • cast-iron block? Must be an old design. Most newer Japanese engines use aluminum.
  • yeap! 1994 is the year when this engine..4G64...2.4 liters was introduced....
    it means the engine is so well designed that it doesn't need any changes,this is what I think!
    They gonna moved it to Lancer 2004,will change something on the head to get some extra HPs and there you go - 10 years old engine is still up end running!!!
  • The real reason is Mitsu is so broke they are struggling for R&D money. That's why they resorted to using a truck/SUV engine in their mid-size sedan.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    We so enjoy your remarks in Mitsu forums...not! Seriously, why don't you stick with Honda forums since you never have anything nice to say about Mitsu.

    As for your comments, doens't Honda use an enlarged version of the Accord engine in the Odyssey, MDX, and RL?? So why exactly are you slamming Mitsu for sharing an engine between their trucks and cars? Truck, car, doesn't matter! We aren't talking about a huge V8 and 3.8 is a common size for a V6 over at Ford and GM. Everyone is trying to cut costs by sharing as many components as possible. Besides, if Mitsu was that hard up for cash, they would have simply continued using the 3.0 and 3.5 V6s they already have rather than designing a new 3.8. Also, there is nothing wrong with using an engine design for a long time. It just proves its a reliable long lasting design. VW spends plenty of money on R&D and have new tech engines and yet they still use the same 2.0 that was introduced in 1993, itself based on the 1.8 liter dating all the way back to 1983. The 1995-97 Accord V6 was in fact the same V6 used in the 86-91 Acura Legend. I could go on and on with examples. So, please, quit trying to come up with lame excuses to slam Mitsu because you only end up showing your lack of knowledge and your bias for Honda cars.
  • marcinmarcin Posts: 64
    nice reply! ;-)

    '99 Galant ES
    4cyl. / 93k mi
  • alpha01alpha01 Posts: 4,747
    Anonymousposts was a bit hard edged, but what I think he was getting at is that the 3.8 was designed for use in Mitsus truck models, some of which are actually trucks, and do not have underpinnings based on cars (think: Monteros). The Honda situation- they designed an engine for cars, then adapted it for use in car based minivans and sport utility vehicles.

    "It just proves its a reliable long lasting design. VW spends plenty of money on R&D and have new tech engines and yet they still use the same 2.0 that was introduced in 1993, itself based on the 1.8 liter dating all the way back to 1983."

    Thats not a very good example, IMO, as that engine is undeniably anemic in all its applications, and fuel economy suffers as a result. 115hp and no overabundance of torque (like Mitsu's much better Lancer engine) from 2Liters in 2003 doesnt cut it. This is an engine that should have been upgraded years ago. The Honda 2.7 also failed miserably, IMO, in its Accord application, though it was decent engine.

    My concern with the 3.8 in the Galant is how weight dist. will affect handling and fuel consumption. I am not sure, but I would imagine the 3.8 is significantly more weighty in the nose than previous Galants. I think the engine itself is good, though, and torque is a good thing.

    Have you received any new info on the 04 Galant? I signed up for news releases and brochures and junk via a postcard that I got at the NYIAS, but havent heard anything yet.
  • hei guys!
    Could anybody tell me why I can't get more than 18 miles per gallon with my Galant???The advertised rates are anything between 21 and 28.
    By the way, does anybody know why the mitsu from the link is available just in Europe???It is nice one though! el_id=1037
    also they have some trucks over L200..see the link below!!!

    I wonder why there isn't GDI engines available to the US modifications..... thus are so economical that you will get surprised,and powerful too!
    Have a look here: del_id=1037

    please bare in mind that the British gallon is 4.5 liters and the US one is 3.78 liters
    and this is what an GDI engine does...I guess the block is 4G63,that is well known over here,The GDI magic is in the head of the engine!!

    If you want to know more about GDI...have a look here, it is rather interesting!!!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    My point was only in that some engines are used for long periods of time due to their stout reliable nature, not because the company can't afford to design something new. The Golf 2.0 is anemic (although actually feels pretty peppy in town up to 60mph, even with an automatic) and outdated but its an extremely reliable engine. Aside from a piston ring problem on some 00 models that caused oil burning, VW could count on the 2.0 to be long lasting and reliable (the rest of the car was a shot in the dark). Same goes for the 2.4 in the Galant. This engine is reliable and only slightly underpowered (it was one of the more powerful engines until the past 2 years). Having an iron block doesn't make it junk and doesn't say Mitsu is broke.

    Regarding the 3.8 V6, this engine was designed for both truck and car applications, just like Honda did with the 3.5. The fact one of its applications is a frame based SUV doesn't mean the V6 isn't suited for car duty. This is a SOHC 24 valve V6, not a pushrod 12 valve V6 like GM uses in their small trucks. The frame based Montero and Montero Sport used the same 3.5 V6 that was put in the Diamante luxury car. So how is the 3.8 any different? Anonymousposts is trying to make it sound like the Galant will be carrying around some massive unrefined trucky engine, but that simply isn't the case. Thus my problem with his statements. However, I too am curious to know what kind of mileage this engine will get. I'm sure it will be lower than the Accord/Camry but it should't be too far off. I'm not worried about weight distribution though because the new Galant is substantially larger so the weight gain up front should be evened out all around.

    I haven't received any new info on the Galant. I'm interested though since I'll be looking to trade in the Lancer in another year. Right now the Outlander has my vote, but it would be nice to get a V6 sedan.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    You need to give your engine some time to break in. Your mileage should improve around 5k. My Lancer initially got as low as 22-23 mpg in the city and it was rated at 24. Now, at 25k, I consistently get 26-27 mpg in the same drive. My mileage started improving right around 5k.

    As for the GDI engines, Mitsu couldn't bring them here due to the high sulfur content in our gas that would ruin the special catalytic converters required for these engines. They will continue to stay overseas until we start to reduce our sulfur.
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