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Volvo S80



  • jean007jean007 Posts: 2
    I am contemplating purchasing a 1999 with 114,000. My mechanic says it's in excellent condition. Since I'm a mortgage broker I'm very tight for money and I'm concerned that if it has a problem it will cost me a fortune to fix. Am I better off with a newer Japanese vanilla car? Help!
  • irishcaseyirishcasey Posts: 36
    Hi Jean007 (Bond is it?)

    I think your concern is spot on if you plan on servicing it at a Volvo dealer. If you have a reasonable private mechanic maybe that's ok.

    I bought an 02 S80 T6 about a year ago for my teenage son to drive. I was principally concerned about safety and it has cost alot more than my Honda and Toyota for routine maintenance (which I always have done at a dealer). I took the Volvo in last week for a $65 oil change and walked out paying $374. My next service at 105,750 includes the timing belt and is priced at $1,400.

    It is a beautiful car and fun to drive!!

    Also, I believe 1999 was the first year so you may want to research that. I recall in my research not wanting to get an S80 1999 or 2000 because I believe there were posts about trans and electric issues.

    Hope this helps and again, it's just MHO, but I think your concerns are valid.

    Good luck.
  • jean007jean007 Posts: 2
    Hi Irish Casey.

    Thanks for your very detailed response. (Bond indeed - is my age showing?) I do have a good mechanic. Volvo quoted me $1,200 for a timing belt and 2 mechanics quoted 400 and 500 respectively.

    I also have detailed service records and they don't mention electrical issues.

    Because of my business I have to drive something semi-respectible and a rust-dripping, exhaust belching junker just won't do.. I also only put about 5-6,000 miles on a car each year.

    I'm really torn since I've never purchased a used car before. I really appreciate your feedback, Mr. Irish.

    Thanks again
  • doctordickdoctordick Posts: 36
    I had a '99 T6 and loved the car. The early ones had transmission problems (due to some bolt holes in the wrong places) that gave them a bad name. However, I found it to be a great car. However, as all newer Volvos it is not cheap to maintain, even if you don't use a dealer. I used a factory trained but non dealer servicing company that I have found very reliable, but the car just is expensive to maintain. I had multiple problems with the mass meter, and before I gave it to my daughter I had about 3000 bucks worth of repairs done. Sadly, though they liked the car it was just too expensive for them so they sold it.
    I have had two S80's since then and they are fine cars with cutting edge safety features for far less than a Mercedes or Beemer with similar features. But all expensive to maintain. My current vehicle is a 2007 V8 which I love. But I can afford the fuel and the maintenance.
    If expensive maintenance is a problem you won't be happy. Otherwise you may love the car as I did.
  • 1999 S80 has message "Service Ele Power Power Subsystem" Message goes away after about 10 minutes. Drive car about four times, about 2 miles each- no problem. Drive car two more miles and it starts to sputter like no gas (has gas). Engine finally stops and car won't start click, click click sound. Leave car for 2 hrs. won't start when I come back engine won't start click, click, click. Remove battery cover- cables are clean and battery water level ok. Inspect wires to starter and alternator- look ok. Engine starts. Drive about 200 yds. Leave car running in park for about 5 minutes. Try to back out of parking space and no power in reverse (like the throttle cable is broke, if it has on?) Put car in drive and it won't go into gear. Engine still running but no throttle and no transmission activity. All electrical out on dash, power windows out, etc. Turn car off- try to restart- car won't start click, click, click. Is this a problem with alternator, regulator (is there one), battery or ?????? Any help appreciated. THANKS!!!
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Sounds like an issue w/ one or more of the processors. Gonna have to take it to the dealer.
  • unhappy99unhappy99 Posts: 17

    My S80 displays SERVICE ENGINE REQUIRED light.
    The light has been on and off for about 4 months.
    Anyway, about 3 weeks ago another warning light came on- on the right panel- a little triangle that looks like a brake pedal.
    My mechanic checked it and got a code that determined the O2 Sensor was needed. He replaced it.
    2 days later the SERVICE ENGINE REQUIRED came back on.
    The car shut off suddenly on saturday as I was coming to a stop.
    It restarted immediately but I am nervous about driving it like this.
    Actually, this is the 7th time the car has shut off while I am coming to a stop.
    Does anyone know what may be the problem.
    Thanks very much for any help.

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    My guess would be elctronic throttle module or MAF sensor. Probably need to take the car to a Vovlo dealer. S80's are a little beyond the average mechanic.
  • I have a 99 S80t6 with 100K one it. I have had the check engine for months. I went to my local NAPA store and bought one of those hand held testers and run my own codes and turn it off now and then. The cost of the tool is about 60 bucks.
    As far as the triangle lite, mine does that in the winter, when my front tires spin. I think its a traction control sensor.
  • unhappy99unhappy99 Posts: 17
    Well many thanks to you Volvomax for your help.
    My mechanic says maybe fuel fiter but I think it is something beyond that.
    His computer tester doesnt pick up any codes.
    I may have to take this car to Volvo to get a diagnosis instead of guessing.
    One more thing, could I get the Electronic Throttle Module or MAF sensor to buy online? Thanks.
  • unhappy99unhappy99 Posts: 17
    Thanks Volvowalt,
    My mechanic's computer doesnt show any codes for this Service Engine Req. red lite. So how would I know what is the problem. The thing is that this car shuts off when I am coming to a stop, did it twice this wknd.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Not surprising. Those generic testers are pretty limited. Volvo had to come up an entire computer network to service the S80.
    Let the dealer fix the car.
    There are no generic ETM's or MAF's for that car, so online won't help.
    Plus, IIRC there is software necessary as well.
  • jrmyjrmy Posts: 2
    My 2001 Volvo S80 has started to have a problem. The blower fan on the heater / air conditioner will come on after the car is turned off even if the fan is turned down all the way. Anybody else have this issue?
  • mnjaspermnjasper Posts: 21
    2007 S80 V-8. Just talked to dealer who told me 30,000 mile maintenance is about $850 and takes all day. I look in the manual and it looks like a pretty routine oil change and inspections of various parts. Does anyone know of major issues that have to be addressed at 30,000?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,682
    Did you ask the dealer how much and how long FOR THOSE ITEMS LISTED IN THE MANUAL? That is key. If you asked "how much for 30k service," then they most likely quoted you the time and money for THE DEALER'S recommended service, not Volvo's.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Man, that sounds WAY high.
    30k isn't that involved for an S80. I'd get a breakdown of what exactly they are doing.
  • tulsahogtulsahog Posts: 64
    On an 03 S80 with 42,000 mi, there was a buzzing sound which lasted for about 3-4 minutes after the ignition was turned off. I noticed the coolant fan was not running, as it usually does after stopping. This was after some city driving and the temp gage was showing normal - exactly where it usually runs. I restarted the engine and then turned it off. There was no noise. My first thought was a problem with the fan.

    Is there some way I can check for the fan as the problem before taking to the dealer? Maybe unplug the fan and see if the noise stops? The fan turns freely by hand.
  • I will talk to my mechanic tomorrow and give you a feedback on that.
    This guy is really good, he fixed a Turbo drain tube leak when no other local mechanics could. Volvo wanted $1800 to fix it. The guy charged me a couple hundred to do it.
  • tulsahogtulsahog Posts: 64
    Thanks, unhappy99. This morning I drove the car and verified that the coolant fan is cycling off and on, so at least the fan runs. The temp gage was in the normal position and when turning off the ignition, there was no buzzing sound, unlike yesterday (Also, no buzzing while running). The fan did not run after turning it off, but maybe it didn't need to.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Not a problem, it is a normal function. It's called afterblow and it is designed to clear out water from the a/c coils. If it bothers you,the dealer can shut it off.
  • Hello,

    I was driving last night, I made a right turn and the right signal flasher is stuck.
    It doesnt come off. I stopped the car and retried it but same.
    I tried moving it to get the left but nothing, so now only the right is on and it is on all the time. What could be the problem?
    Any advice is appreciated.
  • Open the fuses and pull out the stearing col fuse. I think its like 22 and count to 20 and put it back in. Good luck
  • Many thanks Volvowalt.
    I will do that and reply.
  • 'Thanks very much VolvoWalt, I tried your procedure and it worked. Thanks again.
  • glad the turn signals were reset!!
  • I own a 2001 S-80 T6, bought it about 3 yrs ago with 43K it now has 145K. I drive mainly highway miles and do change the oil between 3,000 - 3,500 but that's about all I do unless something happens and I need to fix. I've learned a lot in the past few years about being a Volvo owner
    1. They are expensive to repair & maintain
    2. They like to either blow bulbs or sockets like to loosen
    3. When they run right they are one of the most comfortable cars at higher speeds

    Now, when I bring it to the dealer it's an easy $1200 visit so I have learned to do simpler things myself. Recently I replaced the plugs in wires (and found out each plug has it's own coil) with top of the line wires and Bosh Platinum plugs. I has been running fine and actually increased my mileage to about 28 mpg on the hwy.

    Last week I drove about 290 miles to my destination got in the next morning and started the car and in the information center it said "Low coolant, stop and check soon". That kind of freaked me out but it appears it was just a little low on coolant, I've checked it all week and it looks fine.
    Now, the real reason for joining - BTW very cool site & forums! Today I was returning from lunch going back home (about 17 miles) and when I started my car first it didn't want to stay running then when it did stay running it would lurch - the tach would go from 1 at idle and drop to 2 lines jump and fall only at idle and my check engine light came on. Driving it was smooth this just occured at idle either in gear or out with or without the a/c on :mad: so I stopped at the only place open on Labor day, Advanced Auto who was kind enough to hook up their diagnostic machine and pulled 2 codes, I didn't write down the codes (I think 1 was 1598 the other might have been 0917 not sure)both fuel richness related. The guy said it could be a plug misfiring a bad wire or the egr valve might have a piece of carbon stuck in it. He cleared the codes and the car is running fine again (for the 1/8 of a mile ride home). I went looking on the internet for where it would be located and haven't found it and don't think it has one just a Mass Fuel Sensor could that be correct?
    My next question: does anyone else have problem with front tires rubbing? I have new tires up front and they are to spec's so I'm not sure if my struts or shocks going bad.

    I sure would appreciate and info you might be able to provide!!

  • Any ideas of an economical way to purchase a new remote for the door locks/trunk, etc.? We lost one and broke the other and are now relegated to using the key (bigger deal than you'd think bc of the alarm). Thanks for the advice :-)
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Only place to get a new remote is the dealer. Also, remote has to be programmed by the dealer.
  • I have a 2005 S80 T6 with the original battery. Since the battery is in the trunk, I have not checked it since purchase. FIrst 3years maintenance was included so the dealer may have been checking the battery. Anyone have experience on how long these original batteries last? Should I be changing them out before they die?
  • No, dont change it now and dont worry about it.
    An indication of failing hard starts on a cold day or if you need to boost the battery even when the weather is good.
    If the car is starting on the first turn, you battery is good to go.
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