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Comments
You can force the mirror to a new position by pushing firmly at the outer ot lower edge of the glass surface. The mirror will over-ride the geartrain, with a clicking sound. This often happens to me when I clean the glass with Windex. The mirror is designed to do this without damage, in case you try to adjust it with the motors when there is ice trapped in the housing.
If you can force the mirror to to proper position by hand, see if you now have full range of motion with the motors. If you cannot force it, I think a complete new mirror assembly is required.
Another possible source of problems is the digital decoder / driver module located within the passenger door ("PDM"). It receives the serial data from the central body computer, decodes it, then operates the mirror, power windows, or door locks.
Today the dealership mechanic found the fault in the PDM, replaced the module, downloaded the related software (took the longest time), and fixed the mirror.
I had shared your comments with the dealership service advisor before the work started.
He appreciated them, as I did.
Thank you very much!
Mike
Although our 2001 S80 T6 is almost one year old I just took it in to Barrier Volvo in Bellevue, WA for 7500 mile service. We were out of the country twice for several weeks and haven’t put many miles on. Actually, we don’t anyway. Cost was $ 126.58 not including the Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil I took in. When I bought the car October 2000 our salesman, who’d been an area manager for one of the lube/oil chains, recommended that if I wanted to use synthetic in the long run I should have a change at 2,500 and 5,000 miles, both with normal POL oil, then start synthetic at 7,500. That’s what we did.
Our S80 is the third Volvo I’ve taken to Barrier for service (’72 164E and ’87 760 GTA). I’ve always felt I paid a bit of a premium but have had good service over the years since they bought Bel-Kirk Motors in Kirkland, WA. As usual, I felt $ 126.58 was a bit pricey for what they actually do at 7,500 miles.
We’ve had a few 200 and 300 mile road trips but most driving is around the Seattle metro area. No real problems thus far but do have a "click" which seems to emanate from behind the center of the dash when I go over some bumps and/or turn the wheel rapidly back and forth. I don’t know if this is one of the infamous "clunk-click" problems but it happens so infrequently I may not even bother about it. The service advisor didn’t seem to recognize this as a general problem but offered to look into it any time I want to bring it in for that. I was surprised at his lack of knowledge.
Anyway, so far so good and we’re satisfied with the vehicle. Cheers.
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE CHANGING THESE FILTERS? ALSO, HAS ANYONE HAD VOLVO DO THE RECOMMENDED 30000 MILE SERVICE? DO YOU REALLY HAVE TO REPLACE SPARK PLUGS AT ONLY 30000 MILES?
(such as emissions, software updates, can't get it out of park, engine stalling on the freeway, etc.)
GP
I have recently changed the cabin air filter. To do this, you need about a #25 TORX driver. Under the glove box, there is a panel with 2 Torx screws. Remove these screws, and then pull the panel out. Note that it hooks into the side panel along the console. Then, there is a white plastic plate under the dash (glove box) that has 4 Torx screws holding in in. These are removed from the bottom of the white panel. A screwdriver will not work because there is not enough clearance between the screws and the floor. (I used an Allen wrench, because I only had a Torx screwdriver) When the screws are removed, the panel and filter will drop down. Pay attention to how the filter comes out, as it is tapered on one end. My dealer wanted about $45 labor to do this. It took me less than 30 minutes.Be prepared to get twisted up under the dash!
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Sedans.
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
I'm glad the alarm remains set, but I sure don't like the idea that the car is somehow unlocking itself. Any ideas?
Gerry
Gerry
Regarding the DSTC message light you received - is "check DSTC for maintenance" the exact message?
Or was it possibly "DSTC service required?"
If the latter, have the brake booster checked.
At Club S80 International, this issue was documented on the 'Problem or Issue Discussion" board, under ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC; and added to the 'Reported Issues and Solutions' record being maintained in FILES (in the 'S80 Technical Information folder):
9/6/01
"The problem was traced to a defective BRAKE BOOSTER--the faulty booster causes the BRAKE PEDAL PRESSURE SENSOR to set a fault code (in VADIS) because it cannot determine pedal travel, thus triggering the DSTC warning light. The brake booster was replaced."
Broeux
Club S80 International
http://clubs.lycos.com/live/Directory/CommunityHome.asp?CG=68aali2dfna1380n004cf293tg
There have been numerous reports of squeaky glove boxes on S60 Owner's Boards. One cause has been traced to the switch that operates the light when you open the box. The recommended "fix" is to pack the space within the return spring with a thick grease. I would expect that the S80 uses the same glove box switch as the S60.
Question: Where do I access Volvo Service Bulitens?
Broeux
http://clubs.lycos.com/live/Directory/CommunityHome.asp?CG=68aali2dfna1380n004cf293tg
1) There is a seatbelt warning light on the rear view mirror that illuminates when you start the engine and then after a moment the light goes out. Should the warning light go on again if an occupant unbuckles his seat belt while driving?
2) Is there a way to cause the doors to automatically lock when the vehicle is in motion?
3) Is there an accessory boot that can keep the brake dust from building so quickly on the (arrakis) wheels?
You can view the index of Volvo technical publications at
https://www.volvotechinfo.com
Select "Owner & independent services", then "service", then enter your model name and year.
You can purchase technical bulletins on-line, and pay by credit card. Some are available as Adobe PDF files, so you get instant gratification.
Seat belt light:
Mine does not turn back on when a belt is removed.
Automatic door locking once underway:
To my knowledge, not offered in the USA yet, even though it would just be a software download. A business acquaintance in another country has this feature on his S80. Perhaps Volvo has concerns about potential lawsuits here.
Brake dust:
A chronic Volvo issue. At least one Board contributor claims to have fitted some sort of aftermarket dust shield. There are concerns about a reduction in brake airflow, which might diminish fade resistance. Cleaning the Arrakis wheels has become a weekly ritual. I keep them waxed and use a damp paper towel.
first time to post a msg here.
Just got my S80 a week ago, I found the sound system on the doors make vibrating noise when I turn the BASS/TRIBLE to the right, or the sound volume is loud.
Anyone has such experience?
Tomorrow I will bring to the dealer to look at.
thx
charles
You can read a report of a similar problem (and how it was fixed) in the technical files library at Club S80 International.
URL: http://clubs.lycos.com/live/Directory/FileAlbum.asp?CG=68aali2dfna1380n004cf293tg&AID=9153
Broeux
A few whiny check engine lights like most newer Volvos...
Some odd front suspension bushing issues.. but overall good cars.
The 00 T-6 we have has been fine (Mom drives it in NJ)
Bill
GP
There are many things I like about my S80, but the annoying quality problems have really soured me on recommending this car to anyone.
GP
I experienced similar poor service life with the OEM bulbs on my previous Volvo (1998 S70). Six months was typical for headlight capsules, and that was with the DRL turned Off. Once I switched to capsules NOT purchased from the dealer, operating life more than doubled (and they were half the price). The S70 also required regular socket replacements.
While a bulb failure in no way compares to say, a transmission failure, it is a nuisance to quickly change the bulb before receiving a $50 police citation, particularly so in winter. To make an appointment with the dealer for replacement takes more than a week, and all you get is another poor quality bulb. I just change them myself.
These lamp problems are long standing and widespread. One would think Volvo would have addressed them by now. Evidently, they consider short lamp life an asset, because it creates profit opportunities for dealers.
Incidentally, I have my own problem that the dealer/tech couldn't resolve. With the ignition on and the car idling, the light intensity of the front reading lights changes and flickers. The rate of flicker is strangely not constant, but rather intermittent and without a smooth transitional frequency. Air Conditioning on or off makes no difference but the dash lights and the main cabin lights (the center light button on the roof console) do not show the same flicker problem. Showed tech at last service and he confirmed that the flicker was present and checked two other 2001s on the lot and apparently they have the same condition. Spoke with my service manager (Liz, she is awesome and holds her own amongst the guys at the dealership) and she said they are contacting "FTS," which is like a district service rep, and will get back to me. Anyone else have this annoying flicker?
PS. I am at 5700 miles today.
low miles, (less than 30K).
any problems to be on the lookout for? during test
drive, heard a rattle in the dash, sounded like
a loose screw rattling around.. any ideas...
seems that most of the early '99 problems were on the T6, is that true...
I've taken it in to the dealer and have gotten the usual shrugs. Something about the dashboard, outside, and headliner temperatures are all averaged together to determine how hard it should work to get down to the right temperature.
It's only just started doing this in the last few months, and I can't attribute the problem to a defrost/defog mode. I've wondered if the heating of the dashboard has anything to do with the problem. And of course, it's inconsistent. half the time it works just fine.
Anyway - has anybody else experienced this problem and - perchance - been able to fix it?
Thanks,
Shaun (freezing)
Some participants on another S80 board (Volvospy)reported similar problems. Their dealer connected to the diagnostic computer, which recommended cleaning accumulated dust from the temperature sensor, located behing a small grille on the climate control unit. At least one member used a small keyboard cleaning spray can, and his problem went away. This has not worked for everyone, but worth a try.
I took the car to the dealer. They used a electrical tape to insulate the panel which is directly against the metal door, lt looks very cheaply designed. Now it gets better on some frequencies, but makes different noise on other sound frequencies. I looked the fixes, the form is a better matrial than the tape.
Also I have a click noise from under the driver seat when I make a turn, braking and sudden bake, the dealer said it is a known problem caused by the power seat system, they ordered a piston which is recommended by Volvo to fix the problem.
Also the car is vibrating badly on idle, the dealer said it is normal.
My car has less than 700 miles, has gone to the deal three times in less than a month. Waiting for the part to come in for my fourth trip there.
Regret didn't buy a Acura.
Other than that, it is difficult to determine if the engine is running or not when idling. It is the smoothest idling engine I have ever owned. There is no vibration whatsoever.
I have found that the Volvo dealers in my area try to avoid warrantee work. A quick review of some of the factory service bulletins explains why. Volvo typically only reimburses the dealer for less than half of the actual labor time required.
Whenever I have had a problem (with either the S70 of S80), response from the dealer after the first visit is always " we cannot duplicate the problem". Once you make a second visit and demonstrate the problem, the response changes to "they all do this" (in other words - it is a normal feature). The final step is to drive one of the cars in dealer inventory, to prove that not all samples have the problem, or, to do some research and find a technical bulletin pertaining to the issue. Only then will the dealer relent and attempt an actual repair. The approach of forcing multiple visits to solve simple (and known) problems is an attempt to discourage you. You should try to bypass a step by immediately asking them to demonstrate to you any car in their inventory with the same "normal" idle.
And they can be switched off by the dealer using VADIS.
The feature you saw is called "HomeSafe Lighting" Its' on all 99+ Volvos..
They should have showed you that one at delivery!
Bill
I have the factory wiring manual for the 2001 S80. For USA cars, the headlights are operated by a relay and there is no DRL module. The headlights can only be On or Off. There is no change in intensity with different positions of the headlamp switch. Note that the tail lights and marker lights all stay on during the day as well.
I do not have a T6, so can't help much there. WIth a mix of 50%-50% city/highway, I average 21.6 MPG. Lowest/highest I have measured between fuel refills is 18.9 and 27 (200 mile trip). These values are based on odometer and gas pump readings, not the "message center". I use 35 pounds air pressure all around with the 225-50/17 tires. The fact that you say "smooth and powerful" implies that the turbo must be wound up at least once in a while. I have to settle for "smooth and adequate". I would get into trouble with a T6.