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Toyota Corolla

L8_ApexL8_Apex Posts: 187
Welcome to the continuation of the Toyota Corolla
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  • mikar70mikar70 Posts: 5
    I have a new 2000 Corolla LE as of beginning of June and was very surprised to realize how rough is its suspension. I had before (and still have)1990 GEO Prizm (Corolla twin) that served me a lot and now has 240K miles on it without any repair on powertrain and I'm still very happy with it. That was the reason I went for Corolla once more and did not test drive the car extensively. How sorry I am now! The car drives as if its shock absorbers freese. It shakes the hell out of me on every un-evenness of the pavement. I also feel shocks on the steering wheel with the smallest crack or bump.
    Couple days ago I picked a friend's 98 Corolla CE for a comparison test drive (its the same car) and to my amusement - pretty soft ride. I switched cars several times on the same piece of road - mine is rough, his is soft. I tried to push down front and rear ends of both cars and definitely saw the difference in the rear end. His car I can push down the same as any other car around, and by the way it's dumped pretty well, it settles without any additional shakes. My car you can hardly move down, both right and left, so looks like instead of absorbing bumps it just follows them.
    Does anybody know if Toyota changed suspension calibration from 1998 to 2000 model year?
    I tried to ask the same question Toyota Customer service - they just ignored it.

    Does anybody know, was there any change in suspension calibration from 1998 to 2000
  • liufeiliufei Posts: 201
    I doubt there's any suspension change between the 1998-2000 models. These Corollas is known to give comfy ride in the expense of handling.
    Take it to the dealer for a check, it may have a faulty struts or shock absorber. My 99 Corolla behaves like your friend 98, soft ride and all.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Hate to belabor the obvious, but too many complaints about suspension firmness can be attributed to tire pressures. New car dealers receive their cars from the dist centers with pressures set at 45 psi and up to help prevent flat-spotting on the lot. It is not unusual for this to be missed in PDI - the Corolla is world-famous for having the most compliant suspension in this class, and not by a little bit. First thing to check before driving a new car off the lot is the tire pressures - should not exceed 32 psi for this car...
  • wenyuewenyue Posts: 558

    I agree with Luifei. My 1999 Corolla LE is rides very soft and quiet. I think there is something wrong with your suspension. Take it in and have it checked, you got warranty so why not? :)
  • mikar70mikar70 Posts: 5
    Thanks for all your replies.
    B.T.W., tires pressure is 29-30 psi, no problem here.
  • funduletfundulet Posts: 8
    I have both a 1999 Corolla CE and a 2000 Corolla CE. My wife drives the 99 and I drive the 2000 model. My father has a 1998 Corolla CE. All 3 cars have 4-speed automatic transmission. The ride in the 2000 is rougher and noisier than in the 98 and 99 models. Worst of all, the VVT-i engine in the 2000 model is much slower than the 98, 99 engine at city speeds. The acceleration from stop and from 0-40 mph is MUCH better in the 98, 99 models. At highway speed the VVT-i is a little better than the 98,99 engine. It seems that the engine used for the 98, 99 models has low end torque while the 2000 VVT-i engine has high end torque. I myself prefer the 98, 99 models. Had I known that the VVT-i engine is so slow at city speeds I would have never bought the 2000 Corolla... ( when I test drove it I didn't really notice the big difference in acceleration...)

    Out of curiosity I test drove a 4-speed automatic 2001 Corolla Sporty and to my surprise it seemed to be even slower than the 2000 CE although the 2001 model was supposed to have more torque than the 2000 model.

    I wonder why Toyota had to change the great engine that they had in the 98, 99 Corollas?
  • Greetings to all!!!
    I am interested in knowing if anyone has purchased their toyota vehicle from CarsDirect.Com. If you have, I would like to know about your experience using this service. I'm in the market for a new toyota.

    Thanks for the information.
  • rollaman2rollaman2 Posts: 10

    I got my 2000 Corolla LE from Carsdirect about a month ago. The experience was overall a positive one. I had to play phone tag with the Carsdirect sales guy but I got a really good price with no need to haggle. Just be sure you print out all of the prices from the web page before you place your order. They have a policy of honoring the prices at the time you place your order. Their prices fluctuate constantly. It is helpful to have a copy for your own records.

    The Carsdirect price for my Corolla was below the published Edmunds invoice price and about $1200 less than any dealer in my area. The way it works is that Carsdirect acutally gets the car from a local dealer where I went to pick it up. What is interesting is that Carsdirect paid the dealer about $800 more than what I paid Carsdirect. It's possible that they took a loss on my sale. Strange but I am not complaining.

  • liufeiliufei Posts: 201
    Except for the addition of VVT-I, I dont think Toyota changes anything to the Corolla's engine. I did notice there's a difference in the 0-60 time between the 99 Corolla (8.4 sec) vs 2000 Corolla (8.9 sec).
    My guess is since VVT-I allows greater fuel economy and reduction of pollutant, it somehow affected the engine to stay more in an optimum efficiency range (in term of fuel & polution) rather than allows it to achieve higher speed faster.

    You might also bring the CarsDirect price to the local Toyota dealer and asked them to beat it. More than likely you can get a better price by using the CarsDirect price as bargain chip, unless CarsDirect still subsidizing car purchases.. (which I thought they stopped doing since last year).
    Good luck with your search. ^__^
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    To the best of my information, carsdirect is not making the kinds of deals they were last winter. That was a promotion to get good press and it seems to have worked. Since they are no longer loosing money on sales, the only real benefit is that you don't have to deal with a dealer. The downside is the phone tag and indirect answers you get.

    There is another way to avoid hassles with dealers. It is called e-mail. Send one to every dealership in your area and see what kind of responses you get. If you get the same slimy garbage you get in the showroom, ignore them. If you get a quote in writing within your target price range, you probably tripped across a pretty good store. Insist on e-mail contact for the first few exchanges. This will further weed out stores that are living in the dark ages. The benefit to this is that you get a good price without the hassles of a showroom showdown with multiple managers and hard selling tactics.

    Give it a try. I deal with this kind of customer every day and they tend to be much more satisfied than the brokered customers.
  • liufeiliufei Posts: 201
    I am wondering whether those e-mails will have similar treatment as faxes ? From what I can gather is that most faxes to dealer will usually get inadequate response. Besides, if there's limited number of dealership in the area, that certainly limit the success as well.
    From what I noticed from most dealer website, the advertised Internet Deals is usually still quite high and not exactly a deal in the sense of those ads in the paper (not the "loss-leader" ads of course). From your knowledge, is the price of these Internet deals are pretty much fixed ? or is there room for more bargaining?
  • crieckecriecke Posts: 37
    I visited the lot on a Sun. afternoon,got lit.
    and left.

    The rest of the dealing I did via FAX, even did
    the credit check. When we got together they said
    "come on down".

    Everything went as I expected, no funny business
    and based on the prices I see posted in this
    group I did as well or better than most.

    This is my third Toyota from the same dealer and
    I must say they seem to realize that the customer
    is the guy keeping them in business,

    My first Corolla was the "1100" in the early '70's
    I don't remember just when and then Corolla wgn.
    a few years later. Passed both on to my kids,
    they poured the miles on. I don't know what
    heppen to the cars, both got sold and I lost
    track of them.

    My 2000 CE is a lot more care then the little
    "1100" but that was then and this was know.

    Charlie Johns Island, SC
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    If the dealer will not answer an e-mail, you know what you are dealing with. I really don't like the fax type bid for a number of reasons. They are just a pain but you can try both.

    As to the negotiation room, it all depends on the dealer. At our web site, we put up specials that we can't negotiate but I am sure others don't do this. At some point, I'll share with you guys how silly some of the used car sites are but that is another topic.

    I am a firm believer is shopping for the right dealer. I haven't posted in this topic very often but if you check out other Toyota topics, you will see what I mean. I think the people you buy from is just as important as how much you pay and sometimes even more important. By seeing how they respond to your e-mail, you can judge from a safe distance what kind of people you are dealing with.
  • wenyuewenyue Posts: 558
    yesterday, when I was taking a stroll with my wife. Saw a brand new 2001 Corolla CE, silver, still had the temporary license on it.

    MAN that thing looks GOOOOOOOD! Especially the front end, really looks like Chrysler 300M. The whole car appearance has a high class look to it. Almost makes me want to trade in my 99 for one. :)
  • michalwmichalw Posts: 4
    My brother just bought one yesterday. 2001 Corolla LE. That thing looks really good.I just wish they left the LE the way it was. Now it's some sort of mix with previous CE.

    Has anybody experienced a roaring noise coming from the brakes during breaking from 60-70mph or is it just my car?
    I have a 99 Corolla LE.
  • cmotykacmotyka Posts: 2
    I am trying to decide if I should buy a Toyota Corolla or Celica, I currently drive a mustang and this will be my first NEW car. Does any one have any advice on this situation? Good or bad Ill take any info I can get, to make my decision easier
  • wenyuewenyue Posts: 558
    If you have been driving a Mustang, you better get the Celica. Anything less, you probably will be bored out of your skull. :)
  • I have an '86 Celica and it's the best little car
    ever made. I've owned the car for 5 and half years
    (all through college, I got two degrees) and it has never left me stranded. The maintenance on this car has been routine, no major transmission problems, nothing, it has been flawless. If I were you, I'd buy the Celica. (the Spectra Blue Mica is a Solid color) Unfortunately, I'll have to sell my Celica soon (parents are forcing me to)
    Best of Luck!!!!
  • liufeiliufei Posts: 201
    if Toyota offers the 180hp, 1.8L engine of the Celica GT-S in the Corolla (at least in the S trim). Then I could really leaves someone on the dust. :). At any rate, I suspect the 2003 Corolla will be using the 140 hp engine of the Celica GT.
    The current Celica has sharp styling, but I definitely, positively, hate their rear styling. Arrggh!!!
  • In response to conversions about the conversions between Imperial Gallons, US gallons and Litres, I did a little check on
    The conversions are:
    1 US gallon = 0.8327 Imperial Gallons
    1 US gallon = 3.7843 Litres

    Also, regarding to the recent talk of "expensive" gasoline, whether in Canada or the US...
    I was in Italy last year. At the time, they paid about CDN$1.40 per litre. This translates to about US$3.75 per US Gallon. I'm sure that they are now paying well over $4 a gallon now. A Toyota Corolla in a place like Rome is considered to be a big car.
    Nobody in North America should be complaining about high gas prices.
  • gbush1gbush1 Posts: 13
    is around $4.50US a gallon right now. No wonder I hardly ever drive the "big" car.
  • skay2skay2 Posts: 10
    I have been researching cars for over 2 months. The more I read the more confused I get. I am planning on getting a Toyota Corolla 2001. I guess I should just go for it because a person could research and analyze until they die. I dread the actual process of going to the dealers. The best way I can see to deal with it is just to have a bottom OTD price and see if they will honor it. Has anyone ever used a broker? I know what I want and don't want extras beyond what I choose so maybe I should special order. My head is spinning.
  • skay2skay2 Posts: 10
    Where is a site that lists current holdback and rebates on 2001 Toyota Corolla's? Edmunds is for 2000 right? Thanks.
  • wenyuewenyue Posts: 558
    you won't find any rebate for the 2001 Corolla for quite awhile. Company don't put out rebates right after their new car arrive on the market. They usually do it just few months before the next year's model arrives (meaning late spring/summer of next year). You can probably find rebates on left over 2000 Corollas though. But since 2001 Corolla looks so differnt from the 2000 corolla, you might want to buy the 2001 anyway.

    Try and They give pretty competitive prices, at least a price that you can start your search using. If you like their prices, you can even avoid all the haggling altogether by buying through them.
  • funduletfundulet Posts: 8
    Although the 2001 Corolla looks better than the 2000 model I would still buy the 2000. I own a 2000 model and recently test drove a 2001 Corolla S. The 2001 seems to have less power than the 2000 . Also, the acceleration in the 2001 is worse, the car seemed quite slow to me.

    I also own a 99 model and this is the best by far, it accelerates quite nicely and is much smoother than both the 2000 and 2001 models.

    I don't like the VVT-i engines they put in the 2000 and 2001 models, the cars accelerate very slowly from stop and it's a pain to drive them in city traffic.
  • skay2skay2 Posts: 10
    I had intended to buy a Corolla but after getting internet prices I am not sure why I should not go with the Nissan Sentra. You get more on the car than the Corolla for the same price. The internet sites give me a price for the Corolla that is 6% over invoice and only 2.9% over invoice for the Sentra. This is your chance to tell me why I should opt for the Toyota anyway. I look forward to your opinions. Thanks.
  • skay2skay2 Posts: 10
    You wrote:
    Try and They
    give pretty competitive prices, at least a price
    that you can start your search using. If you like
    their prices, you can even avoid all the haggling
    altogether by buying through them.
    Is this completely true? Or will I have to haggle over local fees and Dealer Handling Charge when I pick the car up? Thanks.
  • rollaman2rollaman2 Posts: 10

    I got my 2000 Corolla LE from Carsdirect about a month ago. You do not need to haggle with the dealer. You pay Carsdirect, Carsdirect pays the dealer. If there is any haggling with the dealer, it is between the dealer and Carsdirect. You only have to be concerned with the Carsdirect price on the web page. In addition to which is tax title and license. There is NO sepearate $455 destination fee, it is already included in the price you see on their web page. On the day you pickup the car, you sign some standard papers (like registration) and that's all.

    I got a pretty good price from carsdirect. You should always compare prices of course. The other thing is the carsdirect guy is not an expert on the Corolla. You have to do a little research and make sure which options, color, interior, etc.. you want. You can do this by using Edmunds and by visiting a dealership and looking at the cars they have on the lot. You can also have the Carsdirect guy negotiate with the dealer for dealer installed options in your car.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Posts: 3,581
    I really hate brokers because they just add another level to a complicated process. They are certainly a good way to go if you have no dealers in your area who still do things the "unenlightened" way. Give the local guys a chance first. Send e-mails to every store in your area and see what you get back. If you get honest out the door pricing that seems fair, you probably have run into a store or salesman who is worth dealing with.
  • wenyuewenyue Posts: 558
    I think rollaman2 in post 29 gave a pretty good answer. You can also look in "smartshopper" confrence in the townhall, there should be a forum there discussing these two companies. You can get even more information there. Good luck.
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