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Audi A6

L8_ApexL8_Apex Posts: 187
Welcome to the continuation of the Audi A6 - Part
Two
topic. Those of you joining us from that topic
are welcome to continue your discussion.

If you're new to this topic, you may want to
follow the above link for additional archived
posts.

Thanks,

L8_Apex
Sedans Host
Tagged:
«134567136

Comments

  • piper6piper6 Posts: 3
    Since we are into partIII I will re-ask my question and reply to the answer to my #701 post. The reason I am sticking with the analog phone is that 1 - I have one and not sure digital has made it to the boonies that I live in,and 2 from some comments I have picked up at Audiworld the motorola unit Audi would like you to buy (at 500$) is analog and therefore ,if an antenae exists, it would be matched. I am not timid about the installation as this would be my 3rd installation. It really isn't all that hard and the time taken usually is doing the job neatly not making the proper connections.
    My question was: is there a pre wired antenae hidden somewhere in the bowels of the A6 and if so where is the connector stashed?
  • lhn5lhn5 Posts: 37
    anyone find this 3rd board?
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Yup!
  • Porsche made VW, like Toyota made Lexus, which later bought Audi/Auto Union. For a more detailed insight, the www.audiworld.com web site has a special story on how it all began. It's their top story. It's quite long, but worth it. Audi- Auto Union was bought by MB before VW.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    The Kelly Blue book site lists available interior/exterior color combinations. Exterior color Pearl (D4) is shown as being available with the Vanilla/Marine interior. Is this something new for 2001? I believe a number of posters have the Pearl with Vanilla/Onyx, but Vanilla/Marine wasn't available. Something new? Or simply a mistake?
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Jason, I'm trying to find the information in the AudiWorld story you refer to. All I was able to find is where it says that F. Porsche, the man, had DSU make the prototype for the Beetle. I don't think the Porsche company came into existence until after WWII, as did the VW company. I remember F. Porsche going off on his own to build cars in the early '50's, but I don't know anything about the company Porsche starting or owning VW. As to the analogy of Toyota and Lexus, Lexus, until recently, was just a U.S. luxury brand name for the same cars that were Toyotas in Japan. (I guess Toyota was smart enough to know they didn't want to try to $45k cars through Toyota dealerships.) They're not separate car companies at all.
  • mosi1mosi1 Posts: 12
    This is an Audi A6 board after all. Anyway, has anyone ever heard of the Landcruiser? It lists for about $50,000, not a whole lot less than the Lexus varient, the LX470. You're right about Toyota and truely expensive vehicles, they just don't have the same focus as Lexus dealers. That's one of the reasons we traded our Landcruiser a couple of years ago.
  • txa6txa6 Posts: 1
    First time poster to this board, but I read it all before purchasing my silver/tungston/sport 2.7T several months ago--thanks for the great info--the car is fantastic!
    Love the car, don't have any of the minor issues a few others have mentioned, but there is one annoying phenomenon I'd like some feedback/advice on (haven't seen others mention it): when I'm in slow-moving, bumper-to-bumper traffic (every night on the way home!), and the car is decellerating in a coast, there is a noticible "downshift kick" at around 20mph. I'm not sure "downshift" is even the right word, since the car's coasting, and I can't see any "jiggle" in the rpm needle to accompany this pronounced kick (kind of a reverse hesitation)--which feels like someone lightly tapped the brakes. What is this? Something to do with the turbo? I'm about due to take the car in for its first maintenance, and I'd like to describe this with a little better insight (or even some speculation) from some of you pros. Thanks in advance!
  • bad10bad10 Posts: 11
    !
  • bollingerbollinger Posts: 207
    Or more correctly, VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group).

    I looked into this. F. Piech, the head of VAG is a member of the Porsche family and thus the companies are very tied together. There is probably a very small VAG investment in Porsche with an option to buy the rest in case of distress, simply to ensure Porsche doesn't get bought by someone else (say Ford) without VAG getting a crack at them.

    So they are independent, although they do work together frequently. Most notably lately with the Audi Quattro (first one), Porsche 924, Tiptronic tranny, and now the W-engines. I'm sure there is a whole lot more stuff I missed too.
  • tubeytubey Posts: 39
    You're right, Steve. In fact, I do believe that the 914, 924, and 944 were all built by Audi for Porsche at Neckarsulm. However, since quite a few folks regard that threesome as Porsche's nadir Audi probably doesn't want to brag about it.
  • p928gtp928gt Posts: 1
    Ferdinand Porsche, the father, had 2 children: Ferry and Louise. The father worked on many auto designs for many companies before forming his own design firm. Ferry, his son, went on to start building sports cars in the family name in the late 1940's, while trying to get his father out of a French prison ("war crimes" due to his design of the Panzer tank among other things). The father passed away in 1951. Ferry, the son passed away in the spring or 1998, the 50th anniversary of the Porsche Comapny.

    The daughter married a Dr. Peich. A son of theirs worked for Porsche then on to Audi. Eventually, he came to headup Volkswagen, where he is today.

    I believe that VW owns Audi. However, Porsche is an independent firm. In the past Porsche has joined with VW and Audi to import and sell their vehicles in the U.S.

    During the Porsche 928 development, an Audi was used as a test mule, but the 928 was always going to be a Porsche.
  • david147david147 Posts: 2
    I have had my 2000 2.7t now for almost two months. Best car I have ever owned and best car I have ever driven. A great value for the purchase price money, and a great lease deal on top of that. I initially wanted a BMW528, but could not get past the salesman's inability to deal at any level. I have driven BMW528 rentals in Germany on business, and can report that the performance only seems to come at at higher revs. The 2.7t pull is right there at 2000 rpm already. I have had none of the problems referenced on this board. The wind noise at speed is at a very low level. The BMWs were not any better (or worse). I did buy black exterior and it looks great when clean, not so good when dirty, and it dirties up early. It will need a weekly wash to continue to look good.
  • shiftodshiftod Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2000 A6 2.8Q in black about two months ago. I noticed after a week that there was a swirl on the front hood...my guess was some bad wax or something. But I couldn't get it off with a sponge and car soap. I took it back to the dealer and after some messin' around they applied some wax over it and covered it up.

    However a couple of weeks later after a wash and rain, the swirl is back again. And I have no idea how to remove it. Please tell me what this is, if it's a serious problem, and how I can fix it. Is it a wax problem? Or did the dealer screw up with some kind of cleaner and run the clearcoat cover? Anyway, it's really annoying, this big circular smudge the size of a basketball on my hood. I'm going to take it back to the dealer, but please give me advice on what it is so that it doesn't get worse. Thanks a bunch guys, and just want to say I love this car...
  • bollingerbollinger Posts: 207
    You can remove them by polishing them. But then you are removing the clear coat down to the level of the scratches. And they will happen again anyway.

    They pretty much appear for exactly the reason you think they do. Someone rubbed a rough rag or one with grit in it on your car. It may have always been there even.

    Just keep your car waxed.

    Some report that Zaino Z5 can remove them without removing finish. I don't know anything about that. Check out www.zainobros.com. Even if this works, they will still reappear.
  • shiftodshiftod Posts: 3
    just to clarify...it's like a cloudy swirl...doesn't look like a scratch, never had anything like this on my other black car...hope it's something I can rectify!!!
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    These things are pretty difficult to describe. Sometimes a photo can be more helpful to people who can offer suggestions.

    You might try this:

    1. Take a good photo of the affected area.

    2. Go to http://www.audiworld.com

    3. Select the A6 (or any other, for that matter) forum.

    4. Post a description of the problem as well as the photo.

    My hunch is that you'll get plenty of responses, and some useful solutions.
  • david147david147 Posts: 2
    I noticed a slight swirl when I rubbed too hard to take off a splotch of bird dirton my black clearcoat finish (hood). The car had been recently waxed, and when I locally rewaxed (Zymol), the swirl went away, and has not yet reappeared.
  • ferarri11ferarri11 Posts: 91
    i guess dark colors are hardest to clean...i still think silver is the best color for audis, and they hide dirt real well, and arent a pain in the butt to clean.
  • spoon2000spoon2000 Posts: 12
    I would challenge the assertion that swirl marks are a fact of life on dark cars. Dark cars may show swirl marks more than lighter ones, but that doesn't mean swirls can't be gotten rid of. I speak from personal experience on this having had two black cars, a dark blue car, and two dark grey cars, and having done free-lance detailing for several years.

    The principles of polishing a car's surface are no different than those of jewelry polishing or sanding wood. You start with a harsh abrasive (just how harsh depends on your needs or on how bad your swirls/scratches are) and work your way
    up through repeated steps to a less abrasive polish. In the case of car polishing, less abrasive means using a polish with a finer grit.

    Meguiar's makes a number of products which, if used properly and in the correct sequence, WILL remove swirl marks. "Used properly" means applied and removed with clean, 100% cotton towels for application (or an orbital buffer) and removal, out of direct sunlight, on a concrete or paved surface, on a day when there isn't dust blowing around in the air, and following a car wash with dishwashing soap (use dish soap only before waxing, not for regular car washing) to remove old wax, road oils, etc.

    If your car is brand new and has swirls, use Meguiar's #9 "Swirl Remover" (from Meguiar's professional line) followed by your favorite wax that does NOT have a cleaner in it.

    If your car is older or has not been garaged and does not look like it just came off the lot, use Meguiar's #2 "Fine-Cut Cleaner" and then proceed with #9 and a non-cleaner wax.

    If your car is older or has been neglected for a while, start with Meguiar's #4 "Heavy-Cut" cleaner and then proceed with #9 and a non-cleaner wax.

    The reason you must always use #9 Swirl Remover after using either the #2 or #4 cleaners is that the latter products will slightly scratch your car as they're cleaning its surface. But the "damage" is undone by #9.

    The reason I say use a non-cleaner wax is that many cleaners in "one-step" waxes are harsh enough to put swirls back into your paint. See http://www.meguiars.com/ for more on this.

    Don't EVER use "rubbing compound" or "polishing compound" as these are imprecisely formulated, harsh products designed to be used after repainting, not for precision paint care like we're talking about here.

    Finally, car polishing isn't something to be taken lightly or on the spur of the moment. It requires at least a half day (preferably in the morning before it gets too hot). It's always helpful to have someone around who can assist with removing the cleaner/wax so you can save your energy for the next cleaner/wax application step.

    If you're fanatic about your car's appearance, an orbital buffer is a terrific investment. You can get one at Sears for around $50 when there's a sale or you can shell out for a more heavy duty one (I use a Cyclo brand buffer that retails for about $250).

    What ever you do, don't use a wool buffing pad on your car. Even many body shop "professionals" get into trouble with those by burning paint, putting in deep swirls, etc. And if you drop your applicator or wipe-off towel on the floor, by all means put it aside and grab a fresh one so you're not rubbing dirt back into your paint.

    Good luck.
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Posts: 956
    I've been away, so I know this is late, but: it ain't rocket science. The mark is either in the wax or in the clearcoat or in the pigment paint.

    You can eliminate one of these immediately simply by removing the wax from the hood (only); as explained in the above post, you can do this with a washing or two with dishwashing detergent (Dawn with its grease/wax cutting agents works real quick).

    If the haze/swirl/whatever is gone, you're all set with just a rewax (using cotton towels, etc.) If it's still there, whoever had it before did something to the paint. You really don't have to know what -- if it bothers you, take it back to the dealer ASAP and say (pointing to the obvious problem): "Fix that."

    Take care.
    Joe W.
  • a6probsa6probs Posts: 1
    I bought a new A6 2.7 Turbo with 480 miles on it. Drove it for a week without incident. Then while driving at low speed and without warning the engine began emitting a foul smell and I had difficulty shifting. I pulled over smoke came from under the hood. Car towed by flatbed to dealer. Eventually it was determined that the clutch had burned out because the master cylinder was sticking. They replaced the clutch and master cylinder. Initially they tried to claim that in 300 miles I had burned out the clutch because of "driver error" and wouldn't cover it under warranty. When I told them I was still on my first clutch with my 10 year old Saab they did not pursue this tac any further. Anybody had similar problems either with major problems very early with their A6, or with the dealer trying to deny warranty coverage? Thanks,
    Ed P
  • rwcole88rwcole88 Posts: 2
    Well, after many months of reading thie forum and Audiworld, I've decided to move forward and lease 00' Silver and Black A6 2.8. I can't wait!! One question - For those of you who have had the car for 1 year plus with higher mileage, how has the car held up?

    Thanks for your help!!!
  • bruno7bruno7 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 A6 2.8 with 15k miles on it. I have had no problems except the fuel gauge which was promptly replaced by the dealer.
  • robertkmgrobertkmg Posts: 9
    Well, it looks as if I have gotten the one flawed A6 2.7T that was been purchased by any of us. As we speak, Audi is trying to figure out how to release me from my lease and refund my down payment and lease payments. My mechanical problems, while not (yet) performance inhibiting are been quite a nuisance, resulting in eight trips to service in less than five months. Each time, Audi has suggested a repair methodology, generally dictated by the regional lead maintenance expert. Audi has even had factory personnel involved, but nobody has yet to figure out what the source of the problem is or how to eliminate it. Now here is my dilemma; assuming that Audi does make this accomodation, which appears likely,why should I replace this car w/ another 2.7T vs. a 328i or MB320CLK? I'd very much appreciate anyone's subjective opinions. If you would like, feel free to eMail me directly at [email protected]

    Thanks.
  • robertkmgrobertkmg Posts: 9
    For those of you that might be interested in my ongoing saga, I received a call from Audi that they now want to pull the engine for a second time and replace the turbos. Even with this, they are not convinced that the problem will be resolved. They said that my car will be unavailable for another two weeks, making it four straight on this visit to service alone.

    I have gone way beyond beyond frustrated. Any thoughts?
  • spoon2000spoon2000 Posts: 12
    Have the magic words "Lemon Law" come up in any of your discussions with your dealer or with Audi?

    Based on what you've described, it sounds like you are very close to owning what would be considered a "lemon" under the consumer protection laws of most states.

    Under most state laws, dealers are required (as my salesperson did at delivery) to disclose that lemon laws exist and to point out the brochure called "Owner Information about Consumer Protection Laws" that should have been in your glove box when you bought the car.

    Identify what state you're in and I'll paraphrase what the booklet says about your situation (assuming your booklet is stranded in the glovebox of the car at the dealer).
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Bob, I would suggest taking a look at this link:

    http://www.autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon.html

    As to your question concerning a replacement, why did you get the 2.7T in the first place? I don't know what all your problems are, but most people are pretty happy with the quality, though there are horror stories. Statistically, the Subaru Legacy is one of most trouble free models, yet my wife is on her third entire ENGINE with less than 50k miles.

    If I were you, if I wanted another 2.7T, I would get one. If I wanted something else, I'd get that instead.
  • portedported Posts: 16
    I am surprised Audi has not just replaced the vehicle, under the current lease. Transfering the lease to a different, equivalent asset would seem to be not that difficult. Was this proposed? You probably have the equivalent $$$ wrapped up in the everyone's time, parts, etc.
  • mosi1mosi1 Posts: 12
    I agree that your stat's lemon law should be consulted. Sounds like you may have a prima facie case. Replacement should be the least they should offer. In addition, I would push for some additional consideration. If your 2.7T was a 2000, I'd be looking for a 2001. If you didn't get the navigation option because it seemed overpriced, I'd get it.If you didn't get xenons, or cd changer or phone,etc. I'd get them. For no more out of pocket money on your part of course. You'll have to see just how far Audi may go to make you happy, but I'd make them work for it. After all putting you in the same position you would have been in if the problems didn't exist isn't good enough. Your inconvenience and mental anguish (frustration) require additional consideration of some type. Maybe they can come up with some smokin' financing deal.You won't know unless you try. If it doesn't work, there is always Small Claims Court in addition to your Lemon Law remedy.
  • tubeytubey Posts: 39
    I definitely agree with all of the lemon law advice you've received. In fact, a year ago when I was still "looking" I was looking mostly at used '98's. I found several in my area (Pacific Northwest)that - thanks to Carfax - I was able to determine were Lemon Law Buybacks. So we know that Audi/VW Financial for sure buys them back. Or they certainly took back a few of the '98 model year.

    I'd nail 'em. Don't know what state you're in, but most of them have very specific lemon laws.
  • robertkmgrobertkmg Posts: 9
    Thanks for all of your comments. I have the number of the State Better Business Bureau for Autos (Maryland) and have prepared the necessary documentation for their review. Per their admission, the process is somewhat lengthy. As a result, I am making efforts to deal directly w/ Audi. What is most interesting is that the service advisors at the dealer in (suburban MD) have expressed their surprise that Audi has not already made the concession and swapped cars. The ultimate decision, oddly enough, rests w/ the Sr. Regional Tech Specialist who has met w/ me, driven my car and worked on it on two occasions. I am currently awaiting a call from him this am to try and get this resolved w/o having to call the BBB of Md.

    Alan, if you have specific knowledge of the Maryland laws, I would appreciate your comments. By the way; I am the guy that called you and left you a message at your office in Mass. some weeks ago on a totally different subject and left a reference to our mutual affiliation in Potomac.
  • mosi1mosi1 Posts: 12
    Maryland's Lemon Law is codified at Commercial Law Title 14 Section 1501-1504.
  • spoon2000spoon2000 Posts: 12
    The Maryland page of the Audi Lemon Law glove box booklet states:

    "Dear Purchaser or Lessee,

    If your new Audi does not conform to all applicable warranties during the warranty period, you may be eligible for a refund or replacement but you must first report the nonconformity, defect, or condition by giving written notice to us by certified mail, return receipt requested, at the following address:

    Audi of America, Inc.
    Client Relations, 2F02
    3800 Hamlin Road
    Auburn Hills, MI 48326"

    When they talk about warranties the above blurb, it's safe to assume this includes not only the actual vehicle warranties, but the "warranty of fitness for a particular purpose" and the "implied warranty of merchantability" that are covered under the Uniform Commercial Code (which Maryland has adopted in large part). In a nutshell, these implied warranties mean that if you bought a car to drive and can't drive it for whatever reason (through no fault of your own) that your sales/lease contract is voidable.

    If I were you I would be certain to have complied with Audi's directives regarding reporting your problems in writing as described above. I would also politely inform the local Senior Regional Technical Specialist that you are going to deal from now on with headquarters and not with him. The comments of the service writers are very clear evidence that he's not handling your situation properly and that you deserve a new vehicle or refund NOW and without any further hassle or agony.

    You have been more than patient and deserve prompt resolution of your problem. The Senior Regional Technical Specialist is in the driver's seat on this situation, and you need to take control and force him to play on your terms. You are getting yanked around.
  • mosi1mosi1 Posts: 12
    I agree with spoon2000. However,I would also confirm that your dealer has complied with HIS notice requirements. The dealer must send, via certified mail, written notice to Audi of the "existence of a nonconformity, defect, or condition within 7 days when the motor vehicle is delivered to the same dealer for a fourth time for repair of the same nonconformity or when the vehicle is out of service by reason of repair of one or more nonconformities, defects, or conditions for a cumulative total of 20 days." A copy of the letter must also be sent to the Motor Vehicle Administration. If the dealer is in non-compliance, your leverage is even greater. Time to turn up the heat.
  • andys3andys3 Posts: 20
    What dealership in Maryland are you dealing with?
    I'm very close to buying a 2001 A6 2.7T (next week
    or two) and live in the Baltimore/Washington area.
    Have talked to a couple of dealers in the area, but if one is to be avoided because of poor service, I'd appreciate a heads up. Also, the dealers seem to be all singing a $2500 over invoice tune around here; has anyone IN THIS AREA gotten a better deal on a 2001? Thanks in advance.
  • spoon2000spoon2000 Posts: 12
    When I ordered my 2000 A6 4.2 last spring, the bids I received (via the CarBargains service at http://www.carbargains.org ) in the Washington-Baltimore area ranged from a low of invoice + $1500 at Len Stoler in Owings Mills, MD to a high of MSRP (i.e. invoice + $5500) at HBL in Vienna, VA.

    I bought at FSK in Frederick, MD because they offered the second lowest bid at invoice + $2000 and I didn't want to drive all the way to Owings Mills.

    I'd say invoice + $2500 is a fair deal in the Washington-Baltimore area given what I hear is increased demand for the cars, given that it's the beginning of the 2001 model year, and given that luxury sedans in general are so in demand around here, etc.
  • robertkmgrobertkmg Posts: 9
    I leased my car from Rockville Porsche Audi. I have no complaints w/ the sales or svc. departments. As a matter of fact, the svc. advisors have been pretty supportive and responsive. I got (what was,at the time) a very good lease in comparison to others in the Wash/Balt. area. Their price was actually lower than CarsDirect.com.

    The svc. advisor has spoken to the Sr. Tech, as has the dealer GM. Both called me back to advise me that I will be getting a call him the Sr. Tech this afternoon, and that I should be very forceful w/ him, as they have both offered their supporting opinions.

    The next chapter is about to unfold.
  • kyee001kyee001 Posts: 1
    I looked around the Baltimore Washington area and the best price that I got for a 2001 A6 2.7T was $1200 over invoice at Valley Motors. This car was ordered to my specifications on June 9 for delivery sometime in September.
  • dcquandcquan Posts: 2
    I ordered my six speed 2001 A6 2.7T back in mid June. At the time I placed the order the sales person told me that Audi was having problem with the sport package production and was not accepting orders for this option. Since than I have read several good reviews regarding the sport package in this forum and got me thinking about getting it (my car is not in production yet). My questions are, (1) Has anyone heard about problems with the sport package for the 2001s? (2) How noticeable is the change in ride? (3) Does the sport suspension reduces the car's ground clearance? (4)What kind of tires does it come with? How's does it perform in rain and snow? (5) Does it worth the money? Any response is appreciated.
  • timcartimcar Posts: 363
    Doug,

    1. No.
    2. Haven't experienced it first hand, but those who have it seem to love it. This suspension seems to be prefered if you want more performance oriented handling. I would characterize the stock suspension as soft, but well controlled. I suggest driving the sport suspension to gain your own opinion.
    3. Yes. I think it's somewhere around 20mm. That's about 3/4 inch.
    4. 215x55 "performance tires." Don't know what kind. If they're not all season, they will degrade snow performance. Theoretically, the stiffer suspension will do this too, but owners who have it don't seem to have any problems.
    5. Depends on what you want. If you would prefer a less soft suspension with better handling, definitely. (You also get sport seats. Very comfortable, unless you are particularly wide.)

    Hope this is of some assistance.
  • lhn5lhn5 Posts: 37
    What capability does adding a chip to the A6 2.8 engine provide? Anyone know a website that describes/offes these products? Thanks. Seems like an economical way to get near 2.7T performance with the lower price of the 2.8 engine.
  • bollingerbollinger Posts: 207
    And since the A6 2.8 is already tuned to 200HP instead of the 193HP of the A4 2.8, you're really looking at a small gain. Perhaps on the order of 10HP.

    You're probably going to need a cat-back and cold-air induction system to even notice the difference. And you're not going to come near the 2.7T.

    Sorry.
  • rmcintyrermcintyre Posts: 1
    Has anyone purchased an A6 Audi at Holberts? What kind of discounts did you receive?
  • rhewinsrhewins Posts: 5
    OK, forget the wheels and tires. I have already concluded that I will have to buy those myself. Has anyone done that?

    By the way, is there any particular reason to buy the 2001 instead of the 2000? Has anything changed/improved/been fixed?
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    Here's a recap of the major differences:

    1. '01 model has standard ESP (Electronic Stabilization Program.

    2. Options are "bundled" differently. For '01, "Premium Package" includes steering wheel audio/phone controls, auto-dimming mirrors, xenon headlights. "Preferred Luxury Package" has moonroof, leather, HomeLink, and front L+R memory seats. (If you want only the leather, it's available as a stand-alone option.) "Guidance Package" = Nav system and rear parking assistance.

    With the exception of the leather, each of the above are available ONLY as parts of their respective packages.

    3. For '01, side curtain airbags are standard. (Optional in '00)

    4. Warranty in '01 4 yrs./50,000 miles vs. 3 yrs./50,000 for '00.

    5. '01 has immobilizer as part of anti-theft system; not available in '00.

    6. No more Lago Green or solid Royal Blue interiors in '01.

    7. No more Jaspis Green exterior in '01; Andorra Red available only on 4.2 in '01.

    I think that's it. Readers, have I missed anything?

    - Mike
  • spoon2000spoon2000 Posts: 12
    Also for 2001:

    - No more solar-powered cooling system
    - New 16" wheel available as an option
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    Which one are you referring to? The brochure shows a new optional 5-spoke 17" for the 4.2 (in addition to the optional 17" "pie plate" that carries over from last year), but no new 16"er. Is there a new one that isn't in the brochure?
  • mpuzachmpuzach Posts: 635
    If you live in a state serviced by carOrder.com, check their web site. Their pricing model shows "no charge" for the Preferred Luxury Package (leather, moonroof, HomeLink, memory seats & mirrors) on the 2.7T. This option retails for $2925 and invoices at $2574. It's got to be an error, but the word is that until the error is corrected in the pricing model, they're honoring the deal.

    Too bad for me. I got my 2000 A6 2.8Q through carOrder for $592 over invoice; with the free Preferred Luxury Package I could buy an indentically-equipped 2001 2.7T for only about $750 more than I paid for my 2.8.
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Posts: 956
    While out for dinner on Sat. night, I parked next to a lovely Jaspis green 2.7T. Since I'm so interested, I was looking at it closely and noticed it had dealer plates.

    As I was leaving, the driver came up and I recognized him as the owner of the area's luxury car dealership ... Audi, Jag, Benz, BMW. He said hello, I complimented the car, and he told me that "actually, this one is my wife's."

    Just out of curiosity I asked him, "what do you have to drive?" An A8 he said.

    Interesting choices, since -- I assume -- he could have his choice of any of the cars sold at his dealership.

    Take care.
    Joe W.
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