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The seal just comes in one long, rolled up piece. It's not pre-molded...you just kind of force it into place and it contours itself to the lip of the door opening. I ended up adjusting my driver's door seal too, but with that one I just popped the plastic sill plate and slid the molding up so that it filled in the corners at the top of the door. It left a gap of maybe 3" at the bottom of the door, but the plastic sill plate covers most of that, so it's not noticeable. If I'd known you could just do that, I wouldn't have blown $45 on that rear door seal!
I've heard you can also take a hair dryer to the molding, and it'll soften enough that you can stretch it back out.
Tell him Pat sent you. ;-)
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
;-)
I tried changing the air filter and pcv valve, to see if that would help, but it didn't. And it's full of oil, so it's not like I'm running it dry or anything! It'll only do it when I'm stopped in drive, like at a traffic light, and the rpms drop to 500. Weird thing though, it won't always drop that low. Sometimes it'll drop to 650 when idling, but then sometimes it'll creep down to 500, and that'll usually trigger the light.
I just changed the oil about 2000 miles ago, so I don't think it should be that, unless maybe there's a problem with the filter? I figure I might change the oil and see if that makes it go away, and then if that doesn't, I'll give up and put it in the shop to see what's going on.
It seems to run ok, though. It doesn't shake or make any nasty noises when the rpms drop that low, and when the oil light comes on, it doesn't make any nasty noises, either!
Do you think something like that would still be a do-it-yourself type of job on an Intrepid?
i couldn't really tell ya...i'm not much of a do-it-yourselfer. i suppose a newer chilten's manual would explain how to do it...?
Anyway, the guy's kind of a loner...I hardly ever see him, let alone talk to him. Before the 'Trep, he had one of those old, boxy '87-93 style Mustangs. It was just a 4-cyl, but damn was that thing noisy! From the looks of it, I'd say it probably broke down on him!
It's kinda weird though, sometimes, pulling into my parking lot, and seeing it just two spots down from my parking space. Sometimes my first gut reaction is "what is my car doing there?!", and then it hits me..."wait a minute, I'm IN my car!" ;-)
Oh yeah, I got tempted again by that damned '02 R/T today. My Dad's tags came in for the '03 Regal he bought 4 weeks ago (doesn't seem that long!) We went down to pick 'em up, and sure enough, that R/T was still sitting there. Still had the right headlight assembly popped out a bit, too. You'd think they would fix that!
But then for not much more, over in new cars they had a whole slew of '04 'Treps, with MSRP's ranging from around $22K to $29.5K, with markdown prices (including the $3K cash back incentive, I'm presuming) anywhere from around $18.2K to $25.5K. There were a few SXT's with sunroofs marked to about $23K. Pretty tempting, but I think I'm still going to hold out until some of the RWD '05 LX cars start to hit the used car market, and then maybe just keep my '00 around as a spare car, and drive it till it drops dead.
Maybe your oil sensor is fine and the light is coming on just because the RPM's are getting too low. When was the last time you put new plugs and a new cap and rotor on the car.
For the oil change I used a different oil filter. I immediately bought the filter I normally use and crawled under the car and changed the filter, added a little oil and presto, problem solved. No problems since.
If you did something different at your last oil change, you might try the cheap fix first: change the oil and filter.
Let me add that I am not suggesting that the sending unit isn't the problem. But an oil change is easy and about $15.
I'll give changing the oil a try, and see what happens. Thanks!
I dunno how far down they'd go, but considering that here it is, 4 weeks after I test-drove it, and it's still sitting there! I figured something like an R/T would get snatched up fast, even if the market for used Intrepids, in general, is soft. 4 weeks ago, they also had a steel blue '02 SE model, with about 40K miles on it, that they wanted $8995 for. I didn't see it around yesterday, so I guess it got sold.
I think the owner's manual does recommend replacing the spark plug wires at 100,000 miles. I can't tell where these wires go to, though. From the spark plugs, they kind of just disappear up under the big plastic intake cover on top of the engine.
As for the change intervals, I could see some people getting 100K miles on the long-life plugs, if they do a lot of highway driving. Well, I don't, and back then, a disproportionate amount of my driving was incredibly short-trip, stop-and-go pizza delivery driving! So I was happy to get 51K out of them. Although I have to admit, I let my '68 Dart go about 44K miles once between spark plug changes, so sometimes I question just how far we've advanced!
So Ottowrkr, the wires that go to the spark plugs never have to be changed, then? Oh yeah, since you know these cars inside and out, any thoughts on what my oil light problem might be?
Andre-our cars use the platinum plugs , not sure about other DC products. The coilpacks sit on top of the spark plugs , so unless a coil goes bad you never have to change anything but the spark plugs. Oil pressure sending unit? start with this.
Otto....isn't the new LH slated to launch in Spring 2004--soon after the auto show--as a 2005 model? I'd recheck that launch date..
otto can confirm this...but i believe the first new LX cars for public consumption will be built starting the first week of january. the initial models will be the magnum wagon and 300 in several different trim levels. they will be '05 models even though they are being built in jan '04. the charger will supposedly come along in january '05 and could be a model year '06. so far chrysler hasn't confirmed a magnum sedan (although this may be the charger). also there is supposed to be something like 7-9 variants based off the LX platform coming in the future...!
I had mechanic do pressure check, says pressure is down to 16#, should be over 20#. Says no disaster until around 5#.
He changed the sender and oil to synth.
(This also happened after a dealer oil change)
emale, you got it. Only one thing, the first week of Jan is when all the production line workers come back to work . So you will be looking at least 3-4 weeks of training before we build cars for the public.
Although I did have one crumple up on my '79 New Yorker over the summer. Went to take it off, and instead of it loosening, the filter wrench ended up crumpling it! In the end, I ended up taking the thing off with a pair of tin cutters and a drill! And I don't know why, though. Usually, I just put the filters on hand-tight, and as a result, when I change them, I can usually just get them off by hand if I put some muscle into it. Freak occurence, I guess...although a few years ago, the same thing happened to me with a '79 Newport!
There was a home grown filter study circulating some of these sites a couple of years ago. Admittedly unscientific, but informative only in the way a true enthusiast seeking knowledge through first hand investigation can be.