Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    I was surprised as well. But, my Passat still has it's original brake pads at 36,300 miles and the dust isn't that bad. I also noticed I have more brake residue on the rears alloys than the front.....

    Back on track.....but I can't complain about the brake performance of the T&C.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    On our 1996 Caravan, front brakes ran over 65K before changing pads, along with new rotors. Van had developed slightly warped rotors long before that, but it wasn't severe so we lived with it for a while. Never did change the rear drums when we sold it at 89K! My wife who is the primary driver has a light foot, I guess.

    If the new GC goes 50K or more without a brake service, I will be happy.
  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    I know Chrysler has had problems with the 4-speed ECT for some time, but I've actually experienced the opposite. We purchased a new 1994 Grand Caravan ES in July 1994, and currently have 160,000 miles on the vehicle. It's still on its original transmission, with no work performed on the transmission (except regular transmission fluid changes) since purchase. The transmission fluid has been changed religiously every 20,000 miles. I guess we're an anomoly. On the other hand, we drive very conservatively, and I don't even recall the last time we used the transmission's passing , or kick down, gear.

    BTW . . . getting stuck in 2nd gear is normal operation when the transmission's internal diagnostics determines a problem. 2nd gear is called the "limp home" mode!
  • b4carsb4cars Posts: 2
    I have a Dodge Caravan has a check engine light on sometimes. It will come on after the van warm up or drive for certain minutes. I checked at Autozone, shown a P0106 for Manifold sensor absolute pressure fault. Do anyone can tell me what that mean and how to fix it? Thanks in advance. I just want to understand this before take to a shop get over charged.
  • We get a lot of brake dust too, but it's no big deal. I just use Westle's White Wall Cleaner to clean the allow rims and it removes all the brake dust the first try. I love the brakes and the life of the pads. We bought our 01 DGC EX with only 37K miles and had our first complete brake job at 74K. (I'm not sure if the pads were ever replaced by the original owner.) Needless to say, I was very happy to get close to 40K on the old pads, assuming the pads were replaced just before we bought our van. :D
  • Well, my car is still in the shop. They called me today and said the chrysler corp. told them to replace the whole wire harness box.??? To a cost of $1860.ahhhhhh. This is rediculus. The mechanic took the box out and shook it and said there was water in it. How could that happen? If we have to pay this then we've put $2000 in repairs on this car since 04/05. Does anyone have any idea how this happens?
  • I'm helping my father in law with finishing a wreck repaired 2003 Caravan. When you open the left front door, the odometer and door ajar warning light comes on, and when you slam the door HARD, the odometer and door ajar lights turn off, but only for an instant before turning back on. Seems to be indicative of a switch problem. The wiring diagram shows a door ajar switch, but we can't physically locate the switch. Any ideas? A wire runs to the door latch, appearing to be for electric door lock function, is it possible that the door ajar switch is integrated with the door latch?
  • I have a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan with 146,000 miles. It has been well maintained and running pretty smoothly until yesterday. It started making a loud "crunching" noise, similar to the noise the ice maker on my refrigerator makes when you choose crushed ice. It only makes it at very low speed, or when sitting idle. It is not continuous, it comes and goes. It starts up after the car has been running for at least 15 to 20 minutes. It is very loud, it sounds like the car is going to blow up, but will then stop. I do not know anything about this and would appreciate any advice before taking it in to the shop.
  • My new T&C shows a code P0456. Does anyone know what this code is? Can it be cleared without an OBD2 tool? If it can be cleared by disconnecting the battery, will I lose my radio preset stations? Thanks for the help, I could take it to the dealer but I've already been 7 times for other problems. I have little or no confidence.
  • easton- Check your power steering fluid level. If the fluid is low and you get air in the line, it will make the noise you described. Adding more fluid and running the vehicle, eventually the air will work its way out of there and eliminates that noise.

    I know the's scary. But remember that the bark is worse than the bite.

    Check your fluid and see if that is the problem.
  • PO456 means that the "EVAP leak monitor has detected a small leak". The most common cause of this is the gas cap has not sealed properly after the last fill up. Try removing the gas cap and putting it back on being careful to tighten it until you hear at least 3 clicks. If that is the problem and your actions cure it, the code will go away in about 3 ignition cycles. I don't believe disconnecting the battery will clear the code.

  • We figured it out. The switch is intergrated with the door latch. We adjusted the latch and now it works fine.
  • i own a plymouth voyager 1994 and im experiancing the same problem. just wondering if you had recieved any responces to your question yet ?
  • I'm still waiting for the same info; I'll post later when I get it figured out.
  • my wife's caravan is slipping in first gear and I know the info is buried in here some where, But I have spent two days looking for it. Can any one give me the quick scoop on the accumulator piston problem in the transmission, and are there any quick fixes. I am pretty capable of pulling the valve body from the tranny . are there any special tools required? will this fix work?

    Frustrated and Bewildered! :confuse:
    Darrin V.
    Thank you in advance for any info!
  • I finally got back to it and figured it out. I was winding the cable back on the wheel correctly but the cable came off the roller on the top of the right side track so I had to take out the right side track and put the cable back on the roller. Not hard to do at all..just loosen two screws and pull out the pin holding the window bolt to the track and duct tape the window up so it stays put.

    Anyway, to wind the cables back on the wheel, put the window all the way up (this leaves the right side cable long and the left side cable short), connect the right side cable to the wheel and start winding it (as you are winding the cables, make sure you keep slight tension on them so the cables do not come off of the rollers on the tracks). Wind the right side as far as you can, with the cable sheaths inserted into their proper places, and then attach the left side cable end into the other hole in the wheel (the inner hole). If all the cables in the tracks are correctly seated, you will have just enough cable to wind the left cable around the wheel. This part is difficult as you need to get every bit of the slack out of the cables (including compressing the springs at the near ends) in order to be able to achieve a tight wind it on the wheel. Tilting the wheel a bit while winding that last inch or so helped get in on but it is difficult. Once you get it on, you need to turn the window motor slightly using the electric window switch to a position that lines up with the square slot in the back of the wheel. After that, add some lithium grease and pop the silver cover plate back on the the front of the regulator housing and put the door back together. One more thing, the rubber gromets into which the motor is screwed were rotted and could not be re-used. The auto store recommended using heater hose as a substitute and it worked great once i jammed it into the holes.
  • I have a 2000 Plymouth Voyager with approx. 80,000 miles on it. All at once the transmission seems to be stuck in low gear, the speedometer is dead and the check engine light is on. Does anyone know what caused this? Any help would be appreciated.

    About a month ago I had the ac compressor replaced in the van. Would that have anything to do with it? Oh and a oil change.

  • Well guess what? The Chrysler Corp. told my dealership to replace the wire harness. It's going to cost me $1860 more. They would not give me any assistance with this. When I pick my car up I told the service dept I am not paying anything until I drive it around for 30 minutes. If there still is a problem I will not pay and Chrysler will get another call from me. This is totally rediculous for a 2002 car. All these problems started 04/05 with the transmission losing power. I still haven't figured out how my engine mount broke. Chrysler S_ _ KS!
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    Have the transmission output shaft speed sensor checked. Sensor costs about $35, about $50 to replace after confirming diagnosis with a code checker.
  • My van went in to our regular shop for an oil change today and to check on a squeaky sound we were getting when pressing the gas. I just spoke with them and they said I had an oil leak (news to me) so they put in some dye and want me to come back in a few days to check on it. They said I need a new water pump and an AC compressor. My question, do I need an AC compressor? I did not have AC at all this summer and lived without it. If it is something that I can drive the car without I would rather not replace it.
    The van has 138,000 miles and we hope to get something new next summer.

    Thanks for any insight.

  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I am considering the purchase of a base Caravan with the 2.4 liter engine. I do not plan on carrying heavy loads. Any comments on the reliability of this engine would be appreciated.
  • Unless there is a great difference in price, I would opt for the 3.3 V6 in the base model. The MPG is almost identical, and no timing belt to worry about.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Yes, most of the time you can get by without a working AC compressor. The only time you could have problems as a result of a bad compressor is if the electric clutch or bearings in the compressor pulley drive system failed, then the serpentine belt might have issues as this pulley is rotating all the time the engine is running, whether the Air conditioner clutch is engaged or not.

    The squeek during engine acceleration could possibly be a result of problems in the compressor clutch/bearings, however, as this could indicate a slipping serpentine belt. There can be multiple sources of serpentine belt squeel, however. I would get a second opinion about this before going to the expense of replacing your compressor, if you really can live without AC.
  • i realize some time has passed since you posted this, but my van is doing the same thing, oil light with warning bell comes on when i brake. Can you please tell me what the solution to the problem is? thanks
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Check your dipstick, I suspect that you don't have enough oil in your engine. When you brake the oil sloshes forward inside the oil pan and uncovers the oil pickup allowing it to suck in air. When that happens you will have an instant oil light.

    Best Regards,
  • not only did I check the oil level, but i also brought it back in to the shop where I just had it changed and they checked it as well. Everything checks out fine. There is no leak. Somone suggested perhaps the oil sensor needs to be changed.
  • I had the same problem. I tried many fixes, including changing the oil pickup, changing the oil viscosity, changing the connector that connected the sensor and changing the oil sensor. I changed the sensor twice and the second change, I changed the connector as well as the sensor. It worked the second time.
  • hi! from what my mechanic has explained to me is you will need to have this compressor replaced and reason being is that it controls your defroster. Mine is shot to and is being replaced. But since owning my car I've put thousands of dollars into it for repairs. my brake caliper on the passenger front is seizing. this is the 3rd time I've had this addressed. my van eats through brakes as it was explained to me that the rotors are too small for the van because it takes more force to stop the van. I've gotten brakes on this van about every 16 months. I've only owned it for 4 years. :sick: I will have it paid off by next september and trust you/me, I'm not getting another chrysler/dodge product. the only positive thing I can say is that I've never leaked oil.
  • that's really odd. my odomitor/instrument panel (which is electric) totally went dead. I couldn't tell how fast I was going, nothing. I was told that there is a sensor that would need to be replaced and is rather expensive because of where it's located. :cry:
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    We had a 1996 Dodge Caravan and did't have to do anything to the brakes until well past 65,000 miles, then finally replaced front brakes and discs. Sold it at 89,000 miles and bought a new GC SE. Rear drums were still original when we sold it! Obviously something is going on in your front brakes that has not been properly diagnosed, like perhaps a caliper that is locking up and not fully releasing, causing premature repeated brake failure.
Sign In or Register to comment.