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Comments
The Honda Accord LX that i just bought carries a
special break-in oil according to the dealer
service department. They recommend it be changed at 3750 miles, but some books on car maintainance
suggest it be changed after the break-in period
which is 600 miles.
Should i change it now or wait. Any insight on this is greatly appreciated.
Dustin
This is what Honda say's about alot of new car owners FAQ. 3750 for those who like to over due it a bit, which never hurt anyone that can afford it and 7500 for the rest.
Thanks a lot.
Just bought a 01 exv6 coupe on sat(500 mi already!). Dealer break-in period is approx 600 mi from what I understand. Any advantages to being cautious longer? Also has anyone used any mid-grade/premium fuel on this car? does it make any difference? Any input would be appreciated.
Also what do you guys out there recommend as far as rustproofing/paint protection. i didnt do anything @the dealer, but want to take care to fit before snow hits. Thanks guys,
-Stu-
I plan to hold it below 4500 rpm up to about 1000 miles; after that, have at it.
This car requires regular unleaded only; anything else is a complete waste of money, PERIOD. Do what you want, but with fuel prices where they are these days, this is an insane idea.
Wax it regularly with whatever makes you happy; I use the top-rated wax from Consumer Rpts' last test, Zymol, but everyone has their own ideas of what's best. Every three months or so will take care of it forever; go to the high pressure wand wash and hit the underside every couple of months. Again, anything else is a waste of money.
Premium fuel is NOT better than regular. It it required to withstand higher pressure/temparature of high compression ration engines......
So use what manual says......
The easiest is to find another dealer, and another service advisor who will take the problem seriously.
Ask the service guy to drive your car and then another from the used car inventory. How do they compare? Maybe it IS you, but it could just as easily be a rare problem with the synchros.
Try a simple drain and refill of the trans fluid, if you can't get anyone to agree to the first two ideas.
Clutch could need adjusting - may not be completely disengaging.
Neither transmission nor clutch problems are common with Honda, but that doesn't mean they don't occasionally happen. You yourself could also try one or more cars off the used car lot to see how they compare to yours, and proceed from there.
The Jeep also became a real gas guzzler and I hated paying thirty bucks to fill up every time. It might be my imagination but I see a lot of SUV's with "For Sale" on the window here in surburban heaven.
I think you can't beat Honda for value and reliability. I don't know anyone who brought a Hoda who wasn't satified. I hope I'm not disappointed. The Jeep was in the shop a lot. I know two other people who had the same problems I did with electrical systems and brakes.
I was very impressed with the value I received for my money. I paid $23,300. Pretty good I think for what seems such a fine automobile.
Many thanks for the people who contribute to this board. I knew what I was getting into from reading the posts and was able to make an informed decision.
Keep you guys posted !
Also interesting, of course, would be any success stories or advice about upgrading, from speakers to head unit.
Sorry to bore all you newer Honda owners, who I'm sure are having a wonderful time.
Is this a cause for concern? Everything else looked good. i.e no rust anyplace else.
Also...the engine wasnt as clean as I expected it to be. Some of the aluminum pieces were pitted, slightly corroded and really worn. I've seen 93 and 94 accords with slightly more km's and their engines were merticulous. You could practically eat off them!!
I'm from Toronto, so I need a car that can live through pretty severe snowfalls etc. I need a realiable car! I already have a 86 Accord with high mileage that I am extremely proud off!
I would appreciate any feedback on this problem!
maven11@yahoo.com
If it is just that bolt that is rusted, then no need to worry since it is quite likely that it gets kicked around and gets wet. But if you have lingering doubts, maybe see if you can peel back the carpet to check the condition of the floorboard.
Does anyone know whether Honda Accord LX 2000 has a filter for automatic transmission oil or not?
And are the lubricants for bearing, hinges, etc permanent which means no lube job is needed? The reason i asked is i dont see this info in the user's manual at all?
Thanks a bundle.
who says he buys cars from auctions and fix them
up to sell. It was a pretty good price $5800 so I
went to his garage to sign the papers. First
thing
he said when I got there was how are you going to
pay me? Then I asked him if the car has been in
any accidents, if there were any problems with the
transmission, etc. And of course he said he
doesn't
sell anything that's bad. Then he told me that I
would only get a bill of sale for the car( no
title
or anything yet). He said I could take the car
home but I would have to bring it back so he could
take it to a DPS in another town to get checked
out
to see if there were any stolen parts, etc because
he bought it from an auction and that's what is
required. I asked him for the VIN so I could
check
out the car myself, but he said no because he
thought I would do something deceptive with it.
Are you suppose to be able to get the VIN from the
seller to check out the car if they have nothing
to
hide. I keep reading that that's what you do
first before you buy the car. Do dealers usually
give you the VIN or are the usually resistant to
do
that? And how does buying a car from an auction
usually work? Last, does anyone have a web
address
where I can look up the VIN? I found it before
but didn't copy down the address. If anyone has
any info about any of this I would be so grateful.
Thank you in advance. And if you can't tell this
is my first time buying a used car. Hehe. You've
probably already guessed that.
The hinges and latches can be lubed with spray on white lube. The bearings and ball joints are all sealed and have no service points.
People that fall for a cheap price are suckers for people who sell them!!
Nobody would sell 96 accord for 6K !! Somethig very fishy.....
~Milind
Social Security Number. Don't trust the documents he gets for you. Get them yourself. I know someone who bought cars from auctions. He said the ones that look drivable could have been involved in a flood and dried out or stripped and put back together. You would not notice any problems until after a few months of driving. I would not risk it.
What kind of adapter that I need ? Is the Alpine after market model is different than the factory installed one ?
But, you will finally know it all!!!
Bob
Especially, if you are buying from a private party, insist on having a dealer or a good independant shop check the car out completely.
Take it to a body shop if you think there might be a problem.
And...BEWARE of a car that is priced below market value...there is usually a reason!
60-70$ could save u a LOT of pain & $$
~Milind
For 2000 model, dealer invoice was $21,836. I haven't been able to find 2001 dealer invoice, but 2001 MSRP is only $550 more than 2000 MSRP, and the only difference between the 2 is the in-dash CD changer & passenger power seats (which should equate to about $450 dealer invoice). If you take last year dealer invoice ($21,836) + $450 for power seats, 2001 dealer invoice should be around $22,286. Subtract the Lute Riley price ($22,874) and they are selling it for $588 over the 2001 theoretical invoice.
And that's no haggle! Good luck!
Does anyone know of reputable websites that sell Genuine Honda Accessories for good prices, ie Alloy rims, spoilers?
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I'd like to hear if you attempt to install a spoiler. I have the instructions (also available on some of those sites) and decided it is not something I would attempt (though I'm sure many have with success).
Many thanks.
Do these things loosen up and get significantly quicker as you break them in?
Accord shows significant change when VTEC comes in picture, when you need to pass on the highways.
I don't think you can get better performance than Accord in this price segment
I drove a VTEC I4/MT as well and it felt about the same way. I know that one is faster than my current car too - it just doesn't feel like it is becasue of the smoother power curve, although I definitely saw the speedo rotating to the right much faster than it would in my current car.
Come to think of it - smoother is better. My fiance gets motion sickness quite easily, and having a nice and smooth power curve would be great for her ;-D
I think I need to test drive some more...
laters
I think Honda got tired of losing a sale to Camry once in awhile over the noise issue and took the necessary steps to make the Accord quieter.
It is now quieter than the Camry.
Actually, the differences were (and still are) miniscule but Toyota kept making a big deal out of it.
Personally, I think our 98 Accord is quiet enough.