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Mazda Millenia



  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    I just bought a 1998 mazda millenia and the check engine light was on. I'm being told it is an oxygen sensor.....sounds like a common problem. Since i have not yet taken delivery of the vehicle, should i be concerned as long as they replace the sensor? otherwise the car is in wonderful condition inside and out.
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    I'm curious how you made out. I just bought a 1998 millenia and the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced (I have not yet taken delivery). Should i "run for the hills" or are these problems fairly minor?
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    not sure if you are still checking this board, but i think your depreciation numbers are a little bit optimistic. I just bought a 1998 for under $5k with only 80k miles on it (and it was the asking price). So if your car is really worth $17.5k, you better sell it now because it is going to depreciate really fast....
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    obviously april is 9 months ago so your 2000 is like a 2001 today, but just to put it in perspective, i just bought a 1998 with 80k miles for under $5k (and that was the asking price). Seems like steep depreciation to me...$16k sounds high.
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    not a reply to this message but unsure how else to work this...i just bought a 98 millenia and it says an alarm is standard...but i can't seem to figure out how to set it. there is no keyless entry....does locking the doors set it automatically? Am i missing something?
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Posts: 121
    There is an adjusting nut on it. The repair manual says to start the car and depress the brake several times. Then turn the car off and adjust the brake. I would also check your brakes to see what kind of condition they are in.


    The alarm on your car should set when you lock the doors.
  • The adjusting nut is at the base of the parking break handle. The cover of the boot has a snapit at the top and velcro closure down the side. If you have ever adjusted a parking brake, this one is really easy.

    Note that the car has a separate set of (tiny) pads for the parking brake. They can wear out quickly. If the parking brake is "weak" after setting it, this will explain it. Hasn't been a problem on my wife's 99S.

    Hope that helps.
  • Max, I would venture to say that the person who sold you the car has lost/not included the keyless entry remote. I am pretty sure it is standard on all Millenia models. With that being said, whenever you lock the doors, whether with remote or inside the car, the alarm becomes engaged. Check ebay for a remote if indeed it is on the car. Anyone else know if the keyless is standard on a 98? I know it was on my 99.
  • rmck46rmck46 Posts: 8
    00 MM Tilt wheel motor is shot.Has anyone attempted replacement?Dealer wants $400 plus to repair.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Yes, I do check in about once a week. And boy did you make me go back in time. March of last year is a long time ago, and obviously the retail or any other value has gone down in that time. Also, there is a very big difference between a 1998 and 2001 in value. So I did a little footwork for you and here is Kelly Blue Book's report on my car's retail value as of today. You can also get wholesale and private party values there if you care to.


    The difference between the $21500 I gave for mine and the current "retail" price of $14815 is $6685. That is a depreciation of $1671.25 per year. Not bad IMO. And yes, I know I would not get retail for it. But I am comparing the purchase price to the purchase price, new to 4 years old. And I have not had to spend one penny on repair to the MMP in that time. Something that is far from true for any other car I have ever owned.


    BTW, KBB gives a dealer retail of $8310 on a "98, so be happy with your good buy as I was with mine.



    Retail Value: $14,815


    Engine: V6 2.5 Liter

    Trans: Automatic

    Drive: Front Wheel Drive

    Mileage: 15,156



    Air Conditioning

    Power Steering

    Power Windows

    Power Door Locks

    Tilt Wheel

    Cruise Control

    AM/FM Stereo


    Single Compact Disc

    Dual Front Air Bags

    Front Side Air Bags

    ABS (4-Wheel)


    Dual Power Seats

    Moon Roof

    Alloy Wheels
  • I think the alarm is standard. It's pretty stealthy. Try this experiment. Lock the car with the remote, but stay inside. Then put the key in, or play around with the controls. You'll set the alarm off. That's how I discovered that there was an alarm system.


    On my 2000s, a light glows high on the left of the dash for a few seconds when you lock the car with the remote.
  • sbisssbiss Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info - I adjusted the nut and now the brake works great - thanks for the reply!
  • The worst feature of my 2000s was the flaking paint on the wheels. I took them off, had them sandblasted and powder coated. I passed on silver and went with a gunmetal grey. Waddya think:

  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    A couple of questions. Did the "flaking" start in one of the lug nut recesses? I have a small place that looks like a crack at that location on the right rear wheel, and don't know if it is in the wheel or the paint. I suspect the paint, as it has been that way for a long time with no sign of vibration or other problem. I have never hit anything hard such as a pothole, and have torqued the wheels to 90 lb/ft when they were rotated. Have had no flat tire either.


    And, what did it cost to have the wheels recoated? I have been considering new coated (I hate chrome, just my preference) wheels from American Racing at 4 for $320 on sale because it would give me a new look as well as getting rid of the "crack". Mazda is way too proud of a replacement to even consider buying an OEM from them. And I don't trust recycled wheels when they might also have a hidden problem. Thanks.
  • The refinishing was about fifty bucks US a wheel. American Racing wheels for $320 are a huge bargain and I would snap those up instantly.


    The flaking was all over, along the spokes and around the holes. I wish now that I had taken some pictures.


    Which American racing wheels were you looking at?
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    thanks for the reply...I just picked up the car today and it did not have a remote with it...the owners manual shows an alarm. Anyway, the bigger issue i have is the check engine light. It was on when i bought the car (even though it ran great) and fixing the issue (turned out to be an oxygen sensor) before delivery was part of the deal...anyway i picked up the car, immediately had it inspected for a sticker (which it passed with flying colors), including software check for "codes". I then filled up the gas tank and drove home (7 miles). As i pulled into the driveway, the check engine light went on again...some of the posts here seem to mention this as an issue....By the way, i checked the gas cap and it's on right. Should i drive it for a couple of days and see if it goes out? I have a 30 day warranty.
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    I didn't realize the low milage on your car...that obviously makes a big difference. I also didn't realize they sold new for $21.5k. I thought loaded they were closer to $25k. Anyway, my car is the base model (no leather, sunroof etc..), but kelly still shows about $7,500 retail ($5,900 private party and $4,000 trade in), so i'm happy with my deal.
  • j30j30 Posts: 30
    My 02P has been great, except every once in a while the c.e.l. would come on but the car still seemed to act normal, last month I was out and the light came on so I headed for the dealer. Ended up being the number one knock sensor, the dealer said if I had to pay for it the cost would have been about $800. If you have a 30 day warranty I would get it in ASAP because the way cars are nowadays even something small can cost alot of money...
  • Option 1 - if they included any kind of warranty with the car, then I would take it back. A check engine light indicates either something's wrong and the car's emissions are too high (unlikely) or the system that measures that has had a failure and has indicated a false positive (much more likely). Let them sort this out.


    Option 2: If you have no warrenty at all, and any problem is yours the instant you drove off the lot, then I would turn the light off and see what happens. If it repeatedly re-lights, then you will have to have the problem fixed. I'll bet it's showing P042x or P043x which are known sensor problems and were fixed under warranty.


    Then again, the OBDII system on a Millenia is so flakey, I've heard of people that put a piece of tape over the light and drive it perfectly fine for years. It should be a Mazda option.


    Watch your gas mileage - it should run 23-26 miles per US gallon consistently.


    I've had a 2000s for exactly one year now. I bought a code scanner and I've turned off the light (P0421) exactly three times since I got the car.
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    thanks for the message back...I called the dealer back today (and also put it in writing)....he said he spent $800 fixing the original problem and is sending me back to the shop that did the the meantime, the light went out today, so if it does not come back when i bring it in tomorrow i'm not sure what to do...the good news is that it passed inspection and runs fine (and now the for the moment at least the light is out).....stay tuned
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    thanks for the reply...there is a 30 day warranty so i am taking it back to the shop that did the work originally (the light was on when i put a deposit on the car and having the problem fixed was a condition of sale). The dealer says they spent $800 fixing it and was shocked that the light came back on....anyway, your comment about emmissions is interesting because there does appear to be a large amount of exhaust (compared to my other cars)...although it is white....meanwhile the light (for the moment) is off, so tomorrow will be interesting....
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    I'm not sure i'm in full agreement with you on the depreciation of maxima vs. millenia. I just traded my 2000 maxima (original price $25k) after 5 years and 60k miles for $11k on a 2005 maxima ($14k depreciation over 5 years). My original plan was to give the 2000 to my son (new driver), but i thought it had too much power and i didn't want to pay for collision, so i bought a 1998 millenia with 82k miles for $5k and put the $6k in my pocket. The millenia was a one owner car put into service in Sept.98 and my maxima was bought in Oct.99, so i got a car with one more year of driving and 20,000 more miles for less than half my trade....not sure what the original selling price was for the mazda in 1998, but it listed for $29k (about the same as my 2000 maxima sticker).
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    Is it a "coincedence" that you spelled coincidence wrong?
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    i checked the manual and where it shows the "alarm" should be, i have nothing but a plastic maybe it was not standard in 1998. Anyway, there were alarm stickers in the glove box, so i put them on the windshield anyway...since no one listens to an alarm going off anyway...maybe the stickers will keep someone away (and fool my insurance company)
  • What's happened is that the original condition that caused the light to go on has disappeared and a set number of restarts has occurred, so the light has been turned off.


    The interesting thing is that the code has been retained in memory and can still be read, up to about forty cold-hot-cold cycles. Get the code read and tell us all what it was.


    Given the Millenia's OBDII system, (which will illuminate the light on the thinnest of reasons) I wouldn't worry much about it. You will see the light from time to time. Get yourself a code scanner, read the code, write it down and erase it. Standard Millenia procedure. The root problem is that the oxygen sensors they used were out of spec - far too sensitive, and Mazda replaced a lot of them under warranty.
  • max05max05 Posts: 29
    thanks a bunch. i am quickly learning alot about millenia's and check engine lights/oxygen sensors/knock sensors etc...i had the code read and it was an "idle sensor malfunction"....have driven about 75 miles or so over the past two days and the light has not come back on. Since i am still covered by a 30 day warranty, i will just keep an eye on it. I did stop at autozone and confirmed they will read the codes for free. this board helped me find that out as well.
  • I purchased my '99 Millenia S new and currently am approaching the 50,000 mile mark. The car has always run great but I am starting to get concerned. Any feedback on the following would be helpful;

    1. Chrome wheels seem to be causing the tires to lose air. Could they be deteriorating on the inside?

    2. Has anyone had experience with the timing belt ? When does it usually go, and how much to replace ?

    3. Is the miller cycle engine still depenable beyond the 50,000 miles ?
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Posts: 90
    1. Generally almost all chrome wheels are theoretically prone to defects and air leaking. Sometimes it's enopugh to clean them, sometimes you have to re-chrome them.


    2. Not sure, but seems like timming belt should be replaced for sure in recomended intervals or maybe a bit sooner. From what I was reading, if it breakes, it will ruin your engine.


    3. I can't comment on that.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Quote: "From what I was reading, if it breakes, it will ruin your engine. "


    Both Millenia engines are "non-interference" and will not be damaged by a belt breaking. The owners manual should show when to change it, and on the 99 S I think it was 60000 miles.


    S owners can tell you more about high milage, but 50 thousand is not high milage, and you should easily double that with no major problems, but there have been posts about the supercharger leaking oil.


    There was a recall on some MM chrome wheels that should be available at your dealer's or online at AllData. There may be a link on the Edmunds site for that.


    Edit: Here is the recall information on the wheels for the 99S. "TSB#0200401 Wheels - Chrome Wheel Rusting "
  • Thanks for the feedback on my Chrome Wheels. I contacted Mazda but they did not have any recall info for my particular vehicle. They told me they might consider helping me if I took the car to the dealer for a diagnostic inspection. Somehow I don't think I am going to get any satisfaction.
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