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Comments
Would appreciate any feedback as to whether you think the prices will improve any over these figures come the end of the month or come August when the refreshed 2011 models arrive.
You stated...
"Here's a novel idea.... Pay a fair price for the vehicle!! You seem to have problem with dealers making a profit. Why is that? Invoice is $22,332 + $750 (Dest) - $1200 incentive = $21,882 + $500 profit for dealer $22,332 = $24,100"
I think that you've really giving some very bad advice. Neither you or I, or anyone else for that matter, are hardly in any position to determine a dealer's profit. No one knows the actual dealer cost except a few people inside the dealership (e.g., owner, GM); not even the sales staff. Dealerships have revolving doors through which sales people come and go every day. Very few dealerships are going to entrust sales staff with senstive cost information.
Acquiring a vehicle today is both an art and a science. I'ts a game of strategy. The game is played so that dealers try to earn as much as they can and customers try to save as much as they can and; there is nothing wrong with either one of those strategies. It's all about the art of negotiation.
Dealer invoice does not equate to dealer cost. A very rough estimate of dealer cost is to take invoice and subtract holdback as well as any manufacturer to dealer incentives/credits. And, trust me, we're not privy to that information. If there are any customer incentives; then deduct those as well to establish a selling price from which to commence negotiations.
When I lease, I always create a one-page proposal that contains information similar to the following hypothetical lease...
MSRP........................... 31,120.00
Sell Price...................... 26,169.00
Amts Financed.
Acq Fee..................... 595.00
Doc Fee..................... 399.00
DMV/Gov Fees.......... 813.00
NJ Sales Tax 7.00%... 799.70 (0.07 x 36 x 317.34)
GROSS CAP............... 28,775.80
Cap Reduction.............. 0.00
ADJ CAP.................... 28,775.80
Money Factor............. 0.00160 (buy rate)
Residual Factor......... 59%
Residual Value......... 18,360.80 (Res. Factor x MSRP)
Term......................... 36
NJ Sales Tax Rate.... 7.00%
Lease Payment....... 364.72
Taxable Payment.... 317.34
I simply fax/email the proposal to the dealer and negotiate via phone/email in the comfort of my home/office. I have my laptop fired up, ready to rumble, and the only thing I'm likely to change is the sell price with just a few key strokes.
Why give the dealer $500 for profit? Do you know for a fact that the dealer is only making a $500 profit???
Dealers are in business to generate profit and they know exactly where bottom is... we don't! And so, I wouldn't be giving them anymore than is absolutely necessary. Believe me, if they're not making a profit, they'll only be too damn glad to let you know. They're simply not going to sell/lease anyone a vehicle that's not profitable.
John
Do you have a similar format for purchansing rather than leasing?
Show me your true cost and than add negotiated fair profit. True wholesale cost of a car is invoice less holdbacks and factory incentives.There are more than 1,200 incentives, I was told so by a manager!
Yes, quit adding worthless dealer add-ons and biting the hand that feeds you.
Criswell Honda in MD sold Accord AT EX-L for 21,882 + TTL to meeper in this forum, and the same car is being sold in Texas for 23,800-24,000 with protection crapola as if they are giving it for loss! The dealer cost is same in all 48 states!
Thanks for your suggestion. I switching to to Sonata SE with fantastic warranty, better content value and great dealer experience for 20,900 with no phoney baloney dealer add-ons or patronizing!
No, I don't. Sorry. The reason is that leasing is so much more complex than purchasing. When purchasing, the most important item to consider is selling price and everything else will fall into place. Financing a purchase is much more stringently regulated (FRBB Regulation Z) than leasing (FRBB Regulation M). There is some degree of irregularity in computing lease payments in this industry. For instance, GMAC discounts the residual one month nearer to the present which inflates the monthly payment by a few dollars and, it's perfectly legal! When leasing, there are many more opportunities for dealers to earn a profit (e.g., money factors that, legally, don't have to be disclosed) than with a straight purchase. Sales tax are a huge issue when leasing and their calculation can be quite complex depending upon the state.
John
MSRP: $ 23,605
still eligible for 0.9% for 60 months. I could take the $1200 rebate and knock the price down to $19,977 and get my own financing.
In SW Pennsylvania.
Price is pretty good according to edmunds and truecar.
Thoughts?
No, I dont know for a fact that they only make $500, but who cares. Its well less than most people pay for the car. The dealer, and the salesman make a fair profit/commission and I'm happy with the price that I paid.
Use Edmonds TMV, use True car.com and move on.
Find dealer and develop a relationship with them, you wont ever get gouged using TMV or True Car and the dealer isnt going to buy too many Rolex's with the profit he makes on you selling the car at even a $1000 profit per car. Its win/win. Peace of mind also has a $ value.
Trying to guess what hold back is (2-3.5% usually) or what volume incentives they are getting can drive one nuts. Dealers also have taxes, insurance, and other obligations.
Just my 2 cents worth, to each his own. I just have better things to do than haggle and worry about $500 over a 5 year note at 0.9 %. (its about $2 a week)
$24,297.32 (starting price)
+ $190 documentation fee
+ $24 computer registration fee
+ $1470.68 (6% tax)
+ $18 owner transfer fee
= $26,000.
+ $174 license plate fee (this is a variable Michigan fee based off MSRP, sale
month, buyer birth month)
= $26174 "out-the-door."
If I was paying cash and didn't want the 0.9%, more dealerships in the south-east Michigan area would have brought starting price down by $1200 for the dealer incentives from Honda. BTW, I got Alabaster Silver Metallic with Gray leather.
2010 Accord Coupe EX-L I4 with auto tranny
prices offered : $23,580 +TTYL
I'm thinking this is not a really bad deal, but I guess I can get a couple hundreds more off.......am I wrong?
Thanks for the help.....
Jay
$21,372 initial quote
$24,539.94 out the door if I pay in cash
$23,188 if I want the 0.9% financing*
* The internet sales guy did say with 0.9% it would be $441.28 for 60 months. So isn't that $26,476.80 total...which is $1,936.86 more than the cash price? Which is worse than the $1,200 others have been commenting on this forum...
Last question, how do negotiate via email anyway? The $21,372 is already the lowest of 5 quotes I've seen today. Not sure how to bargain with him.
Thanks in advance for your advice!
Dealers do not get a $1200 incentive if the buyer uses the 0.9% financing. So, they will not pass along that discount if you want the 0.9% financing.
$1936.86 of course is worse than $1200 but how are you planning on buying the car? If all cash, then take the $1200 off. But if you are financing, lowest rates on new cars I have seen are in the 3-4% APR range. Over 5 years, that may all add up to be more than the total of $26,476.80, even if you take the initial $1200 dealer incentive.
They will do as much as possible to try to get you into the dealership to use their sales tactics. It's harder for the dealership to manipulate you over emails. I had several people call me despite explicitly stating in my quote requests not to call and only to email. Many would assume I was coming in or asked "so when do you plan to come in?"
Tell them you will only set foot in their dealership if they are willing to match or beat your best quote.
I guess I was reading the $1200 incentive wrong. I saw 3.99% financing and over 24 months it's not too bad.
I thought it was weird that I was getting calls left and right today even though I said to email me their deals. Too bad the lowest deal still feels pretty wrong. After getting 9 quotes today the lowest is still the $21,372+TTL=$24,539. It's ridiculous considering my friend bought her EX-L for $25,000 out the door less than 3 months ago. I don't know how to go back to the $21,372 guy since I have no lower deal.
They will do EVERYTHING to make you feel like you have to purchase soon, today, by tomorrow before closing, etc. "Honda can retract all their clearance deals at any time!, etc." This is unlikely.
I would also suggest just you print out the True Market Value from Edmunds.com if it is lower than the dealer's offer. It's at least a starting point/discussion and they might think you have read a lot on Edmunds.com website.
Your friend getting an Accord EX-L (assume 4 cyl and no navigation) for $25,000 is a VERY good deal. Do you know if he had the 0.9% financing? Because that would be an even more amazing of a deal. All Honda dealers will not allow the combination of $1200 incentive and 0.9% financing.
Not bad deals IMHO; the $19,356 is a great deal as well; dunno if it's worth the time/hassel to get more off than that.
That's not a good deal considering that the 2011 model is just around the corner. Where do you live (if near NJ, there are dealers that I would like you to check)? I saw deals as low as $17500 selling price (with destination) + TTL...which comes down to $19300 or 19400 OTD at the end of June '10 in New Jersey.
You could get an LX for $19000 OTD and LX-P for $19800 OTD or so by the end of July( month end). I won't be too surprised if they go down to $18800 OTD for an LX
The destination charge is very common.
Fees for paperwork
Window VIN# Etching Fee
Charges for pin striping.
clear coat/rust proofing
service contracts
extended warranties
all this other crap.
What you really want/need to know is the "Out-The-Door" price.
But otherwise $22,470 + TT&L and assuming no other fees would be a really good deal for 2010 Accord EX-L.
2010 Honda Accord Sedan Automatic (MSRP $23,565)
Internet price in-stock is $18,801* With regular bank rates or cash.
*Price includes the pin stripes and splash guards installed ($358 retail value free).
# The destination charge of $710 is included in the price.
# An administrative fee of $199 will be applied to the final selling price.
# We have no hidden fees!
Does anyone buy vehicles from this dealer before?
Should I believe the sales man and go there?
It's more than 150miles to this dealership. Also in another state, what should I do, such as emails, fax, to prove he is not lying.
I did get 2010 Accord LX-P auto sedan for family member for selling price of $19,250 plus TTL, which is in 6.25% sale tax for Texas plus 172 for title/license/tags plus 125 dealer doc./process fee with drive-out equal to $20,750. That car had mats, trunk tray, door edge protectors and wheel locks in addition to the add-ons you are being sold.
Yes, its a good doable price, just verbally confirm once you get the driveout price.
http://www.hondaofclearlake.com/images/dealershipAds/honda-ad.pdf
My EX-L in Michigan was $26,174 OTD. ($24,300 starting price). This is with the 0.9% financing.
If I paid cash, I think I could have gotten the starting price down to as low as $23,100. Truecar and TMV for the EX-L 4cyl was about $24,400 (average price paid). Dealer cost on Edmunds was $23,600 and Truecar says that below $23,800 is a "great price." Truecar and TMV take into account incentives and destination charges. They do not reflect TT&L so not actual OTD price.
I think for the Honda Accords, the Truecar and TMV prices are pretty accurate. I'd aim to do better than the average prices on these two websites.
They are very poor sellers so the stores don't order any.
It seems everyone wants leather.
Why not just a 4 cyl EX? More power than you will ever need, much lower price and better gas mileage!
In general, taking financing at 0.9% versus 4% APR over 5 years will be cheaper than taking the initial $1200 incentive. Interest kills you. (Unless you are putting like 90% down and financing a very small principle).
Can someone quote me your best deal on a 4 cyl EXL automatic for a buy and a lease deal in the Atlanta market? Also for EX. It is quite a crazy merry-go-round here.
Tax is 7% Looks like 24K OTD is a good deal in some areas for EXL.
Use Truecar.com or Edmunds True Market Value (TMV) to base your relative deal/prices. I think their prices are pretty close to averages.
FYI: in southeast Michigan, dealer cost (which includes the current $1200 Honda dealer incentive) is about $23600. I got mine with the 0.9% financing (which negates the possibility for the dealer to get the $1200 incentive) for $26K OTD.
Can you please provide the split? Sellingprice with destination, Doc fee, tax, tire fee, DMV/reg fees?
Thank you
=======================================
Vehicle price : 18596.73
NJ state sales tax : 1309.27
Documents/Clerical : 349.00
Registration/titles/plates : 299.00
=======================================
Total : 20554.00
=======================================
Does that include the $1,200 incentive? Or did you instead go with the 0.9% financing?
Also, did they throw in the package which includes trunk liner, mud guards, etc..
No they didnt give any package along with the car for the price I bought. They said I'm already getting a good deal...dont ask for anything more...I also felt the same and I didnt bargain much.
I would aim for 19,500 as SP. The difference between LX-P and LX is about 700-800 at invoice value. I think dealers had extra incentives from factory besides 1200 to move inventory. McKinney dealership did tell me that older the car, greater the discount offered since the bank note accrues int. on their inventory.
Worth trying to get it at 19500.
The factory spec. LX-Ps were being sold for 18,500-18,700 or so in May or June when there were additional incentives besides 1200 if you could find one without dealer add-ons. The $600 protection package was forced upon us, didn't want it and every dealer in DFW market has it on very Accord!
Invoice: $22,331
==========================================
Vehicle price/Doc Fee: $21,080
*CA state sales tax: $1,844.50
DMV Electronic Fee $29
License, Registration/Transfer/Title, CA Tire Fee: $339.75
==========================================
Total: $23,293.25
* Note: Orange County (8.75%)